At what degrees does garlic freeze? How to cover planted garlic for the winter and when to do it. Weak solution of potassium permanganate

First of all, let's figure out why the garlic froze. At my dacha, under Nizhny Novgorod, he ascended, although not as amicably as usual. But some neighbors in the garden also had their garlic frozen. Let's try to analyze these examples and draw conclusions.

The winter this year was harsh - in December there were frosts without snow and lasted for quite a long time. Garlic, planted shallowly, immediately froze. Many people simply stick it into the ground without making holes. This is the first mistake.

The second reason is planting too early (before mid-September). In the fall, garlic not only managed to take root, but also germinate. Such bulbs winter worse. I plant my garlic around October 15th. So far the results have been good.

The third reason is that the landing site was chosen incorrectly. In the shade, the temperature drops several degrees lower and the ground freezes earlier. This year at severe frosts the difference of a few degrees played a decisive role. Apparently, the temperature of the neighbors in the shade dropped below the critical level at which the garlic freezes.

Fourth reason. It is recommended to mulch garlic plantings with a layer of compost or tops. I laid out cut leaves and stems of perennial flowers in my garden bed. As soon as the snow melted, I removed the mulch from the garden bed. I still have the garlic. Mulching with forest leaves gives good results. In May, the leaves dry out and form a crust, which prevents moisture from evaporating and weeds from germinating. Without mulching material, the ground froze earlier and the garlic suffered.

What to do?

Spring garlic will help save the situation. It is planted in late April - early May. Spring garlic is sold at garden shows and in grocery stores(in nets of three pieces - this is usually spring garlic). To distinguish winter varieties from spring varieties, look at the location and number of cloves. U winter garlic The teeth are large and, as a rule, located in one row. The peel of the cloves is very hard and thick.

Spring garlic has small cloves. External ones are larger, internal ones are smaller. They are located in several rows, the rows are not observed. Unlike winter, the peel of the cloves is very thin and rustling. Sometimes a sign of spring garlic is the absence of a flower arrow inside the bulb. But winter garlic also has non-shooting forms.

When buying spring garlic for planting in grocery stores, look at the bottom. In spring there should be buds of roots on it. If they are not there, then the bottom has been treated against germination. You can’t plant garlic like this!

Is winter garlic planted in spring?

Of course, you can plant it. The greens will certainly grow; they are used fresh, as well as in marinades after treatment with boiling water. But when planted in spring, winter garlic usually does not set cloves. A one-toothed onion grows (due to the fact that the garlic has not undergone cold treatment). Only when winter garlic is planted very early (in early April) can one hope that it will produce bulbs.

There is information from some amateur gardeners that when planted in the spring, winter garlic grows normal bulbs, but they cannot be stored; they must be immediately processed.

To increase the yield, flower arrows must be cut off. As an indicator of ripeness, leave only two or three plants: when the flower arrows straighten, it’s time to harvest. But tying garlic leaves in a knot makes no sense. Photosynthesis occurs in the leaves, and if we reduce their surface area by tying the leaves in a knot, then the benefit for the plant is very doubtful.

Garlic (lat. allium sativum)- This herbaceous perennial, a species of the Onion genus of the Amaryllidaceae family. The plant comes from Central Asia. Its cultivation took place in the mountains of Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, northern Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan. Scientific research confirmed the origin of garlic from the long-pointed onion. Garlic is popular all over the world due to its pungent taste and characteristic smell. It is in demand both in cooking and in medicine - healing properties garlic has been used by mankind for a long time.

Planting and caring for spring garlic (in brief)

Landing: sowing cloves in open ground – in early spring when the soil warms up to 5-7 ˚C.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
The soil: cultivated fertile sandy loam or loamy soils of neutral reaction.
Watering: during the period when garlic is growing greens, watering should be abundant and frequent, in the second half of the growing season - moderate, and in rainy weather, ripening garlic can not be watered at all.
Feeding: when leaves appear and again two weeks later, the soil is fertilized with nitrogen: herbal infusion, mullein solution (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12). During the period of clove formation (late June or early July), the area is fertilized with ash. Feed garlic until mid-August, without getting carried away with mineral fertilizers.
Reproduction: vegetative – with teeth.
Pests: onion flies, thrips, moths, secretive proboscis, hoverflies, stem nematodes, root mites and four-legged garlic mites.
Diseases: black mold, fusarium (bottom rot), downy mildew (downy mildew) and white rot.

Read more about growing spring garlic below.

Spring garlic - description

The round, somewhat flattened garlic bulb has a complex structure - in the axils of the scales, from two to fifty children covered with hard, leathery scales are formed, which are commonly called cloves or cloves. The bulbous cloves are oblong, triangular in cross-section, thickened towards the middle, with a convex outer surface. The color of the covering scales of the bulb can be white, yellowish, pinkish or dark purple.

The leaves of garlic are narrow, lanceolate, elongated, grooved, keel-shaped with bottom side, pointed at the ends, drooping or erect, reaching a width of 1 cm and a length from 30 cm to 1 m. The next leaf grows from the axil of the previous one - this is how a strong false stalk of garlic is formed.

The flower arrow can reach a height of 60 to 150 cm; at the end it twists into a spiral and ends with an umbrella-shaped inflorescence, covered with a film before flowering. The spherical inflorescence of garlic consists of white or lilac sterile flowers, bulbs and a dense covering. The fruit is a capsule, but garlic does not form seeds - what are usually called seeds are actually aerial bulbs, so the propagation of garlic by these bulbs is not seed, but vegetative. Garlic seeds can only be found in decorative species, as well as in perennial garlic, which is popular in Central Asia and does not form bulbs.

Planting spring garlic in open ground

When to plant spring garlic in the ground

Spring garlic is propagated exclusively by cloves, which are planted in the garden in early spring, as soon as the soil warms up to 5-7 ºC. The roots of spring garlic form and grow at temperatures from 4 to 10 ºC, at the same time the leaves of garlic form and grow. A delay in planting can negatively affect the harvest, since as the air warms up to more high temperatures plant development stops and the bulb does not form. If you follow the agricultural technology of the species, growing spring garlic and caring for it does not cause any difficulties.

Soil for spring garlic

Spring garlic is grown on fertile cultivated sandy loam or loamy soils of neutral reaction. The bed is located in a well-lit place, protected from the north wind. Low-lying areas where snow lies for a long time and water accumulates should be avoided.

Site preparation begins in the fall: the soil is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet with the addition of half a bucket of humus or compost for each m², three cups wood ash and 10-15 g of complex mineral fertilizer. In the spring, before planting, the area is leveled.

After which you can plant spring garlic

The best predecessors for garlic are cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, squash and other pumpkin, legumes and grain crops and spices. You should not grow garlic in areas where carrots and potatoes previously grew, and after onions or garlic, you can plant garlic in an area only after 3-4 years. The proximity of garlic will be useful for crops such as gladioli, roses and tulips, as well as onions, strawberries, tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, black currants and gooseberries, since garlic repels borers, slugs, weevils and other pests. But garlic depresses cabbage, peas and beans.

How to plant spring garlic in open ground

For cultivation in the garden, large (weighing 6 grams or more) or medium-sized (from 3 to 6 g) cloves are selected, which are separated from the bulb immediately before planting, without clearing them of scales. Do not take cloves for planting from a bulb that has only 2 or 3 of them - this is degenerating garlic, unsuitable for propagation. The teeth should be intact and elastic.

30-40 days before sowing, whole heads of planting material are placed in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator or buried in the snow.

12 hours before sowing, planting material is disinfected in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. You can prepare the teeth for planting by heating them for 8-10 hours at a temperature of 40-42 ºC.

Garlic is also disinfected in ash liquor: 400 g of wood ash is poured into 2 liters of water, boiled for half an hour, and then the planting material is soaked in the broth for 2 hours.

In order to speed up the germination of cloves in the soil, you can first germinate them at home: wrap the garlic cloves, without removing their scales, in a damp cloth and place them in a plastic bag.

Garlic is planted in moist soil. On a leveled and loosened soil surface, furrows are formed 3-4 cm deep at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, large cloves are laid in them at intervals of 10-12 cm, and medium ones at intervals of about 8 cm and sprinkled with soil. Do not press the teeth into the bottom of the furrow - this may negatively affect the development of roots.

Caring for spring garlic

How to grow spring garlic

Garlic shoots are not afraid of frost and appear at a temperature of 3-4 ºC. Caring for spring garlic involves watering and fertilizing, systematically loosening the soil around the plants and controlling weeds. In order to make caring for garlic easier, the area is mulched with a 2-3 cm thick layer of humus, peat or rotted compost. This will not save you from the need to loosen, weed and water the garden bed, but you will not have to do this so often.

Watering spring garlic

It is very important to properly organize watering of garlic throughout the growing season. In the first phase of development, when garlic grows greens, it needs abundant watering. Drying or yellowing tips of garlic feathers are a sign of insufficient or infrequent hydration. In the second half of the growing season, excess moisture can lead to diseases or damping off of the bulbs, so soil moisture should become moderate. If the weather is rainy, you don’t have to water the garlic at all at this time. The day after watering or rain, loosen the soil in the garden bed.

Fertilizing spring garlic

As soon as the first leaves of garlic appear from the ground, you need to add them to the soil. nitrogen fertilizer. This can be a solution of mullein in a ratio of 1:10, bird droppings in a ratio of 1:12, herbal infusion, humus or mineral supplement. Fresh manure is contraindicated as a fertilizer.

After two weeks, another liquid feeding of garlic is carried out. At the end of June or beginning of July, cloves begin to form, and at this time garlic requires potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the form of an infusion of wood ash. Fertilizers continue to be applied until mid-August, combining them with watering. Do not get carried away with adding mineral fertilizers to the soil - this can harm your own health.

Diseases and pests of spring garlic

Despite the wonderful protective equipment garlic, which humanity has used since time immemorial, this crop itself can suffer from pests and diseases. Among the insects, garlic is affected by onion flies, thrips, moths, secretive proboscis, hoverflies, as well as stem nematodes, root mites and the four-legged garlic mite. Among the diseases, you can expect troubles from black mold, fusarium or bottom rot, downy mildew or downy mildew. powdery mildew and white rot.

Monitoring the condition of garlic should begin as soon as shoots appear.

Processing spring garlic

For preventive purposes, garlic is fed with ammonium sulfate - this measure prevents the appearance of pests. In mid-June, you need to repeat feeding. Remove diseased or insect-infested plants by digging them up so you can inspect the roots rather than pulling them out. Thin the garlic if it grows too thick.

Fungal diseases of garlic can be diagnosed by the following signs: drying and yellowing of leaves, appearance on feathers yellow spots, death of roots, plaque between the scales or on the bottom of the bulb. Rot bacterial nature manifests itself as brown ulcers on the bulbs, the smell of rot and discoloration of the scales. Treatment of garlic with Alirin-B and Gamair-TM will help against fungal infections.

To combat thrips, mites and other pests, you will have to treat the area with biological products Lepidocide or Bitoxibacillin. The hardest thing to get rid of is the stem nematode - a small worm that feeds on garlic juice, causing the roots of the plant to dry out and the fruit to crack. The invasion of this pest can destroy the entire crop. You can protect garlic from nematodes by planting calendula or chicory between its rows.

But the most effective protection of garlic from pests and diseases is compliance with cultural practices and prevention. If you take your preparation responsibly planting material and soil on the site, to fulfilling the agrotechnical conditions of the crop and caring for it, then pests and diseases will bypass the garden bed with garlic.

Spring garlic is harvested in the second half of August, when two-thirds of its leaves turn yellow and fall off. Do not overexpose garlic in the soil, otherwise you will get a low-quality product with cracked scales, decaying cloves and a bottom that has begun to grow. A couple of weeks before harvesting, stop watering and rake the soil away from the heads to allow them to ripen and dry faster.

Choose a dry day and start harvesting: dig up the garlic with a pitchfork, remove it from the soil, shake it off and lay it out to dry. You can dry garlic directly in the garden for 5 days, and if it rains, move the bulbs under a canopy, or even better, in a ventilated room. Dry the garlic along with the leaves. As soon as it dries, shorten the roots of the bulbs, leaving no more than 3 mm, trim the leaves, and trim the stems to 10 cm, then sort the garlic by size and store it.

Store spring garlic in a dry and well-ventilated place at a temperature of 2-4 or 16-20 ºC. You can weave garlic into braids, as our grandmothers did, or tie them into bundles, or you can pour the bulbs into a mesh bag or nylon stocking and store them in a suspended state. Garlic is also kept in wicker baskets and wooden boxes made from boards. When storing in plastic or glass containers, sprinkle the heads with coarse salt, which absorbs moisture well.

Types and varieties of garlic

Garlic can be spring or winter. In structure, both varieties are similar, but there are significant differences between them: in spring varieties, medium-sized cloves are arranged in several rows, and in winter varieties, the bulbs consist of one row of large segments. In addition, in winter varieties of garlic, after ripening, part of the flower shoot remains in the bulb - a kind of dividing rod around which the bulbs are located, but in the bulbs of spring varieties there is no such rod, since it does not shoot. Winter garlic can be planted in the spring, but in this case it will not have time to split into cloves by the fall, so it is better to plant winter varieties in the fall. Winter garlic reproduces by both cloves and bulbs.

To obtain good harvest, you need to choose the right variety of garlic. Since spring garlic does not tolerate changes well climatic conditions, you need to choose zoned varieties for planting. Varieties of spring garlic are divided according to ripening periods into early, mid-ripening and late, as well as into bolting and non-bolting, although this division is conditional: in a cool climate, bolting varieties may not produce bolts, and non-bolting garlic in a southern climate, on the contrary, acquires the ability to throw out peduncles. Shooting varieties are often grown as winter crops. The most famous varieties of spring garlic are:

Gulliver– productive, disease-resistant, long-storable mid-late garlic of universal use. This is the largest spring garlic, the heads of which weigh 95-115 g, although sometimes they can weigh 250 g. The bulbs are covered with gray scales and contain 4-5 large cloves of pungent taste;
Aleysky- one of the best spring varieties zoned for the conditions of Siberia, although it grows well in warmer climates. The variety has good yield, the average weight of the head can reach up to 25 g. taste qualities This garlic is considered spicy. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to fusarium;
Elenovsky– a recently bred universal frost-resistant, disease-resistant, productive, non-shooting variety of medium ripening with densely structured heads weighing up to 35 g, consisting of 7-9 cloves. The main advantage of the variety is its ability to proper storage do not lose quality for 2 years;
Sochinsky 56– an early-ripening, consistently productive variety, resistant to diseases and cold conditions. The head weighing up to 45 g is covered with white durable scales. The variety has an excellent taste, which is due to the presence of sucrose in its composition. Sochi bulbs are stored for a year and a half;
Permyak– a non-shooting mid-season variety intended for cultivation on summer cottages in the northern regions. Average weight heads 34 g, number of cloves in an onion – 15-16 pieces. The taste is very pungent due to the high content essential oils. Garlic can be stored for no more than 10 months;
Victorio– a mid-season productive variety with a semi-sharp taste, also intended for cultivation in garden plots. The bulbs weigh 40 g and contain up to 13 cloves. Garlic of this variety can be stored for 8 months;
Abrek– a very sharp-tasting mid-season variety, the heads of which, consisting of 13-16 cloves, reach a mass of 25 g. Shelf life – no more than 7 months;
Moscow– a non-shooting, mid-season, high-yielding, low-sharp variety with round multi-toothed heads of high keeping quality with an average weight of up to 14 g;
Ershovsky– also a semi-sharp, disease-resistant, non-shooting variety, the bulbs of which consist of 12 cloves and can weigh up to 35 g. The shelf life of Ershovsky variety garlic is no more than 7 months;
Degtyarsky- a variety of Ural selection with bulbs weighing up to 38 g, consisting of 15-18 cloves. The outer scales are reddish, covered with purple streaks. Leathery scales Pink colour. The pulp of the cloves is white, with a pungent taste. Shelf life is no more than 10 months.

Kledor– an elite French mid-season productive variety with high resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases. The head reaches from 45 to 55 mm in diameter and contains from 16 to 20 large cloves in a pink integumentary shell;

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Growing garlic on your own plot is necessary not only for your health, but also for garden crops. Planting garlic and more precisely the time planting depends on its type. You probably know that spring and winter species are planted in different time, but this is not the only difference between them. Today I propose to find out how to grow garlic of these two types, as well as how this crop will help you in your garden.

The technology for growing garlic is quite simple, but this vegetable has a number of specific requirements. For example, this crop is quite demanding on soil fertility. Therefore, it is better to grow garlic on cultivated fertile sandy and loamy soils with an acidity close to neutral.

Garlic is a light-loving plant. Usually it is grown in a separate bed, but if there is not enough space, compact plantings with other vegetables and berries are organized. Planting garlic next door will appeal to strawberries, onions, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, raspberries, gooseberries, and black currants. Flowers such as gladioli, tulips and roses also love the proximity of garlic.

This culture repels caterpillars, slugs, and borers. They say that even moles don’t really like to dig their holes near garlic. Roses with garlic growing near them will be healthier because it protects these flowers from black spot.

But cabbage, beans and peas cannot share the same bed with garlic, since it inhibits their growth. Although legumes cabbage vegetables- These are good predecessors of garlic, as well as pumpkin crops.

Growing garlic after onions and itself is possible after 4 years.

Methods for propagating garlic
The peculiarity of garlic is that it does not form seeds, but reproduces vegetatively. Spring garlic is propagated only by cloves, while winter garlic is propagated by cloves and aerial bulbs.

It takes 2 years to get a full bulb from a bulb. In the first year, when growing garlic, a small onion set is formed from the bulbs, consisting of one clove and only next year- a full-fledged multi-toothed bulb. But even a one-clove onion is the same garlic with the same beneficial properties.

Garlic is mainly propagated by cloves, which produce full bulbs in the year of planting.

The future harvest directly depends on the quality of planting material, which needs to be restored to health. It is also recommended to periodically update varieties.

Before planting the teeth:

Calibrate: sort by size and remove small, diseased (with cracks on the bottom) and those with irregular shape(with two tips, double).
The teeth selected for planting should be dense, large, with a solid outer shell.
Disinfect in ash lye. To prepare lye, take 400 g of ash per 2 liters of water. The resulting mixture is boiled for half an hour, cooled, drained, and then the garlic cloves are kept in it for 2 hours.

Spring garlic can be germinated before planting (for faster growth). To do this, the teeth are wrapped in a cloth moistened with water and placed in a plastic bag for 2-3 days. Germinate at room temperature. But this technique is not mandatory.

Flower arrows with bulbs are dried well. Only the largest ones are selected for planting. The rest of the bulbs can also be planted, but you will not get high-quality planting material from them.

After you read this article, I recommend watching the video that. The whole video is interesting, but if you are only interested in garlic, then watch from about the 14th minute. Another most useful video awaits you at the end of the article.

Growing spring garlic

Planting garlic in the spring is relevant specifically for the spring variety. Planting should begin in April-May, as soon as the snow melts and the soil temperature reaches +5...+7 °C. If the soil is moist, no watering is required; if it is dry, abundant watering is required.

The depth of planting garlic is determined by the height of the clove, multiplied by two and is 5-6 cm. If you have sprouted the cloves before, then plant them carefully, trying not to damage the roots. Immediately after planting spring garlic, mulch the soil.

Planting is carried out in rows every 18-20 cm. The cloves are placed in a row every 8 - 10 cm.

Spring garlic shoots appear at +3...+4°C and are not afraid of frost. Garlic requires different temperature regime depending on the stage of its development. Optimal temperature is:

during the initial growing season +5…+10°C;
at the stage of laying and formation of bulbs +15…+20°C;
at the stage of bulb ripening +20…+25°C.

From these temperature conditions it is clear that garlic will be grateful to you, especially if summers in your region are very hot. In this case, the mulch for the garlic bed should be light.

During the growing season it is necessary to organize proper watering. In the first phase, when it goes active growth– plentiful. In the second phase, when the bulbs ripen, it is moderate, and when rainy weather sets in, watering is stopped altogether. Excess moisture in the second half of the growing season is dangerous, as it provokes the development of diseases and can lead to damping off of the bulbs.

During the period of growing garlic, 2 feedings are carried out:

in the spring, on thawed ground - with a solution of rotted cow manure (in a ratio of 1:10) or a solution of bird droppings (1:12);
in June-July - ash solution (200 g per bucket of water).

And you don't need to use any mineral fertilizers for garlic, because by doing this you will only harm the earth and your health.

Garlic care also includes systematic loosening of the soil and weed control. To make caring for garlic plantings easier, it is recommended to use mulching. It not only eliminates the need for loosening and weeding, but also reduces the frequency of watering.

Growing winter garlic

Winter garlic is planted in the fall in September-October. It is very important to plant teeth in a timely manner. Early boarding causes premature growth, which reduces the winter hardiness of plants, and when late boarding The teeth do not have time to take root due to the onset of frost.

The area allocated for winter garlic is prepared in advance, about 2 weeks before planting, so that the soil settles. For planting, grooves are made, at the bottom of which a layer of coarse sand (it can be replaced with ash) 1.5-3 cm thick is poured. The sand prevents contact of the cloves with the soil and protects them from rot.

Planting garlic before winter is also carried out in rows every 20-25 cm. The distance in the row is from 8 to 10 cm (for small cloves) and from 12 to 15 cm (for large cloves). The planting depth for winter garlic is recommended to be deeper than for spring garlic, namely within 15-20. But this depth is suitable more topics, whose soil is already loose due to the use of natural farming methods.

Beds planted with winter garlic must be mulched. A layer of mulch creates additional protection from frost, its thickness should be 1.5-2 cm. Dry peat or a mixture of sawdust and garden soil is used as mulch. In unfavorable weather conditions (cold temperatures and lack of snow), the bed is covered plastic film or roofing felt, which are then removed so that the snow falls on the soil. Another method is to use a thicker layer of mulch. You will learn about this from the video at the end of this article.

Bulb bulbs are sown at the same time to a depth of 3 cm, according to a 2x10 cm pattern. Bulbs can also be sown in early spring (in the first half of April). In the fall, single-toothed bulbs obtained from bulbs are dug up, dried well and planted again in order to obtain a normal bulb in a year.

Winter garlic is characterized by increased cold and winter hardiness. Well-rooted cloves overwinter well, withstanding soil temperatures down to -20°C. More low temperatures can cause freezing, especially in snowless and light winters.

Caring for winter garlic (temperature conditions, watering, fertilizing, mulching in summer) is carried out in the same way as spring garlic.

Flower shoots are removed from bolting varieties of winter garlic when their length reaches 10 cm. This technique allows you to get a good harvest. If desired, leave several plants with arrows for the ripening of bulbs.

Have a good harvest!

I advise, dear readers, not to miss the publication of new materials on this blog.

Autumn planting garlic in open ground has many advantages compared to traditional spring method. At the same time, yield indicators depend on compliance with planting technology and the characteristics of covering the beds for the winter. How to cover garlic for the winter - actual question for many summer residents.

Mulching beds with winter garlic helps preserve crops and improve the characteristics of the future harvest. Properly sheltered plants produce early shoots. A layer of mulch protects not only from winter frosts, but also from sudden changes in weather: with unexpected warming, which gives way to heavy snowfalls and serious frosts, the crops grown do not freeze out.

The use of new generation covering materials makes it possible to create a favorable microclimate for cultivating various garden crops, and also prevents overcooling of the soil. The formation of glaciation in the soil can cause the death of plants. To protect garlic planted in open ground for the winter, it is recommended to cover the beds. In addition, the amount of weed grass growing in the spring between sowings decreases.

Video: “Features of covering garlic and onions for the winter”

This video explains how to prepare and cover garlic beds for the winter cold spell.

Organic materials

Depending on the material used, the height of the mulch can range from 4 to 10 cm. southern regions- in Kuban, Crimea, Krasnodar, Adygea, Stavropol and the southern strip of the Rostov region - a bed of garlic overwinters well with virtually no shelter.

To increase the endurance and winter hardiness of grown crops, crops are treated with dry humus, crushed peat and semi-decomposed manure. The height of such a covering layer does not exceed 2–3 cm.

Garlic grown in the northern and central regions, including the Moscow region, must be covered for the winter. Organic matter is used as a covering material.

Hay

You can use hay to mulch garlic beds. Dried stems retain heat well and do not allow moisture to pass through. Need to make hay early autumn or even in the summer when the weather is warm and dry. Otherwise, fungal spores, insect larvae and pathogens of various infections may settle in the straw.

To cover beds with winter garlic, you will need dry plant stems without inflorescences and seeds. If there are any seed pods left, the spilled seeds will begin to germinate and clog the plants being grown. garden crops. Another disadvantage of hay as a type of covering material is its tendency to compact and damp out, which leads to rotting of the seed.

Sawdust

One of the most common methods of insulating a vegetable garden is using sawdust as a covering material. Wood sawdust perfectly absorb and do not allow moisture to pass through, while maintaining high level thermal insulation. When using sawdust to cover winter garlic, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the crops during sudden and sometimes unexpected changes in air temperature.

As for the disadvantages, the accumulation of moisture leads to deterioration of breathability. The soil oxidizes and plants growing in the ground receive virtually no solar heat. Gradually, the growth and development of covered crops stops.

Foliage

Many summer residents prefer to cover their winter garlic crops with dry fallen leaves. One of the advantages of this method of insulation is the availability of covering material. The leaves do not bunch up and do not disturb air exchange; crops growing in the ground receive the amount of oxygen necessary for full growth and development.

If you couldn't find more effective method covering garlic, it is recommended to cover the beds with pine spruce branches or spruce branches. In this case, you need to monitor the moisture level and periodically replace the mulch layer.

Use of agrofibre

Method of using organic materials to cover vegetable and fruit crops is gradually losing its popularity. Organics are being replaced by new generation covering materials. We are talking about non-woven fabrics that are made by melting and interweaving polymer fibers.

Agrofibre, also called spunbond and agrofabric, is used to cover vegetable and fruit crops. Canvas with a density of 17 g/m² is suitable for insulating garden beds during the off-season. Frame structures in the form of caps and tunnels, they are sheathed with a denser fabric - spunbond with a thickness of 42 or 60 g/m². The material, whose density reaches 90 and 110 g/m², is used for cladding greenhouses and greenhouse structures.

Not only agrofibre, but also other covering materials are highly popular among gardeners. Thus, to protect against cold and frost, mulchagram sheets, jute fabric, geotextiles, lutrasil, “Obernit” and “Luck 60” fabrics are used.

Covering plants for the winter with plastic film is impractical, since the dense fabric does not allow air to pass through. Lack of air and accumulation of condensation under protective layer leads to the appearance of fungus and mold. After some time, the crops begin to rot, weakened plants are no longer able to withstand cold and frost.

Experienced gardeners advise not to forget about crop rotation. If you plant garlic in last year's beds, the first harvest will be good. But after 3–4 growing seasons, yields drop significantly.

The duration of shelter depends on climatic features region of growth. IN middle lane In Russia and Primorye, garlic is planted before winter in last decade September or early October. More late sowings will not have time to adapt to growing conditions before the onset of the first frost. You need to cover your garden about a week before the onset of frost, so it is recommended to carefully monitor the weather forecast.

Winter garlic is considered more tasty and healthy. Autumn planting makes it possible to harvest an early, abundant harvest of the crop being grown, while spending a minimum of time and effort.