Corn litter for rats. Types of bedding. Which litter is best for little rats?

Cage litter helps keep rats in clean and relatively hygienic conditions because... absorbs waste and neutralizes unpleasant odors to a certain extent. Unfortunately, often the wrong choice of litter and its improper use negate the pleasure of keeping rats, make life very difficult for the owner or his household, and can worsen the health of the animals. Therefore, it is very important to familiarize yourself in time with the main types of fillers, options for their use and understand what is most suitable for you and your rats.

Types of fillers

Unfortunately, it is impossible to unambiguously answer the question of which litter is best to choose for rats or, moreover, which litter is the best. Rats react differently to the same materials and litter that is ideal for one rat may cause a chronic runny nose or sores on the feet of another. But there are certain indicators or properties of fillers that make them better or worse for use in a cage; we will try to consider these properties on this page.

: sawdust, shavings, pressed (granules, pellets), wood chips;
: hay, corn, flax, cotton, grass pellets, hemp mulch (fire);
: cellulose, paper napkins/towels, office paper, newspapers;
: disposable diapers, mineral (bentonite, palygorskite, etc.), silica gel.

Wood litter for rats

Sawdust and to this day remain the most common filler. However, they are also one of the worst options, because... most often they are made from coniferous wood, and many rats react to needles in the form of irritation and inflammation of the mucous membranes of the upper respiratory tract, as well as the lungs. In addition, sawdust can be extremely fine and dusty, which additionally leads to irritation of the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes. The rat begins to porphyrinate, sneeze, and in general the joy of life becomes overshadowed by ailments, including chronic rhinitis. At the same time, sawdust from non-coniferous wood can become a good filler if the cage has a false bottom: rats cannot reach the sawdust, and the sawdust does not generate dust and does not get into the nose and eyes. In all other cases, the use of sawdust as a filler for rats is highly discouraged.

Shavings Compared to small sawdust, it has one advantage: it is larger, so it does not generate dust and does not get into the nose and eyes. Large, dust-free shavings from non-coniferous (deciduous) wood can be used either under the false bottom or simply poured into a pallet or trays. This is far from the most the best option, but it has a right to exist if the rats do not react to the presence of shavings by sneezing, porphyrin, or runny nose. It is highly not recommended to use coniferous, dusty and small shavings as filler.

Pressed wood filler on the market it is presented in granules or pellets. Pellets remain a very popular type of filler; they better than sawdust They retain moisture and odor, but they rattle, generate dust, and when completely wet, fall apart into fine dust. Pressed wood filler is convenient if the cage has a false bottom; in all other cases it is not recommended for use, because inconvenient for rats when moving, can be very traumatic for the skin of the legs and can cause pododermatitis, and in the form of dust can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes of rats. It is highly not recommended to use pine granules and pellets as filler.

Wood chips is on this moment a good alternative to all other types of filler. Please note that in pet stores it is sold as a filler for terrariums and at a relatively high price. You can also find it without any problems in hardware stores under the name “chips for smoking.” Wood chips do not generate dust or irritate mucous membranes, provided that a product made from hardwood tree. Trauma to rat paws is also within acceptable limits, however, for elderly, sick, too heavy rats or rats with a predisposition to pododermatitis, it is still not worth using this type of filler without a false bottom. For all other rats, the filler is suitable for pouring into trays and trays, as well as under the false bottom. It is definitely not recommended to use pine chips.

General recommendations: Do not use granules and pellets if you have elderly and weakened rats, rats with overweight or predisposition to pododermatitis; do not use small, coniferous, dusty, clumping or scented wood fillers; If a rat develops symptoms of a respiratory illness on wood litter (runny nose, sneezing, etc.), remove it immediately.

Vegetable litter for rats

Corn filler consists of crushed corn cobs and comes in three types - fine fraction, coarse fraction and granules. This type of filler is currently perhaps the most popular among rat breeders. Unfortunately, corn litter has a number of disadvantages: it is quite noisy, in rats with a large weight or a tendency to pododermatitis it can lead to injuries and inflammation of the skin of the feet, it is not suitable for elderly, sick and weakened rats, because It is difficult for them to move on such an unstable surface, it can cause pain when stepping on it, and some rats try to avoid it for this reason. However, he does not have negative influence on the respiratory system and mucous membranes, which is why rats with chronic respiratory infections are often switched to it; it retains odors and moisture well, and the corn filler is completely safe to eat.

Linen filler There are two types: granules (pellets) and kostra (chopped plant stems). The filler has good performance in terms of moisture absorption and odor retention. Pressed flax granules have the same disadvantages as granules of any other filler: they are traumatic for the skin of the feet, turning into dust and dust when wet. The disadvantages of fires include possible dustiness and sharp parts, but this directly depends on the manufacturer. In some rats, flaxseed fillers can cause swelling of the mucous membranes, but this effect is observed in a very small number of animals.

Cotton filling has not poor performance odor retention and moisture absorption. In addition, it does not injure the skin of the feet and is not hazardous. However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that it can cause rhinitis in rats prone to inflammation of the mucous membranes or with chronic respiratory diseases. At the moment, cotton litter is quite rare on the pet products market.

Herbal granules They absorb moisture well and retain odor, but they have all the disadvantages of granules, and when wet they disintegrate into dust. If you don't replace it often enough, the filler can turn into a “grass porridge.” Not recommended for rats prone to respiratory diseases and pododermatitis.

Hemp filler in the form of fire is a fairly good filler for rats, but, unfortunately, at the moment it is almost impossible to purchase on the pet market of the CIS countries. Alternative option You can buy mulch at markets and in stores that provide gardening products, but in this case you need to pay attention to the quality: it should not be too dusty and uneven, mixed with debris, because this will increase its risk of injury.

General recommendations: Do not use granules and pellets if you have elderly and weakened rats, rats that are overweight or have a predisposition to pododermatitis; Such organic fillers require frequent changes during the warm season, because are a convenient environment for hatching fly larvae; dusty fillers can lead to inflammation and swelling of the mucous membranes, and sharp parts can damage the eyes of rats; do not use flavored fillers.

Paper litter for rats

Cellulose filler Suitable only for a small number of rats or for laying a second layer on top of granular litter, because In terms of odor retention, it is not up to par. The advantages of this type of filler include the fact that it does not rattle, rats like it, does not injure the feet, absorbs moisture well, however, it does not cover a large surface well and some of its varieties can be quite dusty.

Paper napkins or towels They are good for use in a cage, but they are not able to replace litter, at least on a permanent basis and for those rats that like to chew paper and drag it into their house or create “nests”. Napkins and towels have fairly poor odor/moisture retention and are easily “destroyed” by rats, so they need to be changed at least 2 times a day. But at the same time, they are hypoallergenic, ideal for use as bedding in houses, well suited for rats with respiratory diseases, sensitive mucous membranes, pododermatitis, and can be used in a cage with lactating rats. You can only use napkins and towels without patterns or dyes.

Office paper Not suitable as a filler for rats. The decisive disadvantages are the sharp edges, which can leave quite serious cuts, and poor odor and moisture retention. However, paper, torn (not cut!) into long strips, may be to the taste of rats for building nests and as an interesting activity for walking.

Newspapers magazines and other printed materials should also not be used in a cage, because in the production and application of printing inks, among other things, drying oils, phenols, formaldehyde, petroleum oils, synthetic resins, metal salts (cobalt, manganese, aluminum, iron, etc.) are used*. These substances or their traces are theoretically capable of harming the health of rats due to chronic intoxication, i.e. with regular and direct contact. It is better to avoid any contact with freshly printed products and products published before the end of the 90s: in the first case, due to fumes from printing ink, in the second, due to the use of lead salts in old pigments. In addition, newspapers and magazines are not able to sufficiently absorb and retain moisture and odors.

Inorganic fillers

Disposable diapers absorbs and retains odors/moisture very well and is especially suitable for elderly, sick and weakened rats, allowing them to be kept in hygienic conditions, keeping their cage clean and dry. You can secure diapers both on shelves and directly in the tray using masking tape or other devices. Please note that only non-gnawing rats should be given diapers and only if they have no desire to tear apart the bedding. Unfortunately, there are known cases of death due to the inhalation of small particles of the inner layer of diapers, torn into small pieces.

Silica gel and mineral fillers with any composition (bentonite, palygorskite, etc.) cannot be used as a filler for rats, except in cases where the cage is equipped with a sufficiently high false bottom to prevent any contact of animals with the contents of the tray, and this is at least 5 cm. The entry of a mineral or silica gel filler into the gastrointestinal tract of a rat leads to its blockage and, as a result, an almost guaranteed death.

Using litter in the cage

Usually the entire surface of the pallet is covered with filler; the thickness of the layer depends on the type of filler, its properties and the number of animals. This method has its pros and cons, and, in my opinion, there are many more cons. This includes the noise of the filler when it comes to pellets or various granules, and inconvenience for the rats themselves, and the possibility of injury to the delicate skin of the hind legs, which can lead to pododermatitis (corns), and an increase in the overall negative impact on health if the filler is chosen incorrectly, for example , pine sawdust, and high price, because depending on the size of the cage, several liters of the same may be required corn filler. The advantages include a large absorbent surface, which will allow you to change the filler less frequently and, in the case of sloppy rats, provide fairly long-term protection from odor.

However, now another method is becoming increasingly popular, in which the cage tray remains unfilled (but can be covered with napkins, PVC mats, fleece), and the filler is placed only in a tray or several trays located in different places cells. It is not difficult to accustom rats to a tray; they learn on their own, but to speed up the process, you can collect and put rat excrement in trays that are found in inappropriate places in the cage. Soon the rats will understand that the trays are the place where waste is collected, and not the nearest shelf or random corners of the pallet. One of the disadvantages is the need to frequently change the filler in the trays. Keep in mind that not all rats are accustomed to using such a toilet and it is almost impossible to achieve 100% success from them. Never punish animals for mistakes!

An option with a false bottom is also possible: the middle of the false bottom is covered with some material (PVC mats, linoleum, etc.) to reduce its risk of injury to rats; the entire tray or areas in the corners of the cage with an open false bottom are filled with filler. Thus, waste products enter the filler, bypassing the closed part of the false bottom. This method also allows you to easily and simply get rid of contaminants, be it rat feces or husks from food, simply brushing them into a corner. This will make it easy to hold ground floor cages are clean, which is especially important for older rats or rats with a predisposition to pododermatitis.

Of course, it is also possible various combinations the above options. For example, trays on shelves have proven themselves in large cells even when the tray is full: the rat no longer has to run about its business with top floor to the bottom, just look at the nearest shelf with a toilet.

* Berezin B.N.: Synthetic polymers in printing; Pochinok A.P.: Encyclopedia on occupational safety and health T3; Knop A., Sheib V.: Phenolic resins and materials based on them; Gordon C. Miller: Printing and printing; V.A. Kabanov: Encyclopedia of polymers.

Lyricist Katharina From. Photo provided by Lyudmila Khludova. For assistance in writing the article, I thank the candidate of chemistry. sciences Maria Musalova, Olga Yudicheva, administration of the “Decorative Rats” group.

Despite the abundance of information on keeping animals, feeding and breeding them, I regularly encounter health problems with rodents caused by their owners. I would like to draw attention to a number of features in the maintenance and nutrition of rats, your companions and pets, from the point of view of a veterinary rodentologist.

Rat housing

In a cage or in the wild? Caging is preferable. Firstly, a rat will not be able to greatly damage your own home (it’s a rodent!). In addition, the rat will not run into the cage “out of need,” which will make your home look deplorable. Secondly, free-living means swallowing dust under cabinets, eating poison from household insects and the insects themselves, possible hypothermia, injuries and other troubles. Thirdly, the rat must regularly communicate with people so as not to go wild. And for physical health and entertainment, it is enough for the rat to regularly walk under your supervision, for example, on the sofa.

What kind of cell should it be? The cage should be spacious enough. The longer the rat is expected to stay in the cage, the larger it should be in order to provide the animal with the opportunity to play and walk, climb, and move vertically. It would be nice to hang a hammock, spiral pipe ladders, and divide the cage into floors, compartments, and rooms. Many rats like it when there is also a house inside the cage, a secluded place where it can hide its “stash” or can get away from your hands and eyes. The presence of such a secluded corner has a positive effect on the mental health of your pet.

I prefer wire cages. They provide better ventilation than aquariums. In addition, it is easier to hang various toys in this cage, it is easy to climb, and it does not isolate the animal from communication with people, from different smells and sounds. A long cage with many nooks and crannies is much more interesting for a rat than a multi-tiered skyscraper. The design of large plastic water bottles interconnected is very interesting. Bottle necks are used to connect the compartment chambers. They can be easily covered with a screw cap and the disconnected unit can be washed. You can arrange multi-room apartments: bedroom, toilet, storage room, etc.

It is very important that the bars of the cage are covered special material(vinyl) anti-corrosion and easy to clean. The distance between the bars of the grill should not be very large, since the animal’s paws can fall through and get stuck between them, causing serious harm, including fractures. The tiers in the cage should be easy to remove in order to diversify the room and not interfere with cleaning the cage.

Do not use cages or boxes made of wood. First of all, it's not hygienic. Urine is absorbed into the wood and cannot be washed off. The accumulation of ammonia causes irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes and respiratory tract. This can cause the rodent to become sick. In addition, pine and cedar wood releases toxic aromatic hydrocarbons, accumulating in the animal’s body, which can lead to intoxication and damage to internal organs. Another danger of wooden cages is splinters and injury to limbs. And the reliability of a wooden cage for isolating a rat is questionable: it won’t be difficult for it to chew through a tree!

It is advisable that the floor of the cage is not slippery, preferably even lattice. The grate on the floor for draining sewage should not cause irritation to the palms of rats, various rashes and injuries; The mesh size of the grid should not allow the rodent's paw to fall through or get stuck. There should be a removable tray at the bottom of the cage. It should be deep enough so that bedding and various debris do not spill out of the cage. Plastic pallets, unlike metal ones, are more resistant to urine, easier to clean, and do not have sharp corners.

Where to put the cage? Where is more convenient for you and for the rat. Do not place the cage on the aisle or in the corridor: it can be dropped, the constant movement of people disturbs the rodent, and there is also a risk of drafts. Place the cage in the house so that there are no windows or radiators or air conditioners nearby. In addition, it is necessary to observe the light regime: rats also sleep. Constant lighting causes mental discomfort and contributes to reproductive dysfunction and the formation of ovarian cysts, which can cause the development of a tumor process. Leave it in twilight for the night (night light or curtains not drawn).

What to use as bedding material?

Bedding can vary, although a hard floor is preferable to a soft floor for a rat. The rat loves to rustle papers - do not use newspapers or sheets of printing ink for this. Observe the condition of the rat's soles - is there any irritation from the bedding?

Shredder paper can be a good bedding - rats are very interested in collecting it in nests or playing hide and seek, as in thick grass. You can use hay or straw, sawdust, thin and soft wood shavings, grain husks, special cellulose fillers, pressed sawdust, granulated sawdust, paper napkins, rags, etc. Rags can sometimes cause injuries, especially if the strings get tangled around the toes, feet, or tail. For this reason, do not use rags or yarn for bedding in a nest with babies and the nursing mother. But it will fit well non-woven material with excellent absorption capacity (kitchen napkins).

Avoid products made from softwood. I have already mentioned that all products are from coniferous trees(pine, cedar, fir or spruce) contain toxic substances- aromatic oils (phenols), which give a specific aroma to wood. When inhaled, they dissolve in the blood and undergo detoxification in the liver, increasing the number of microsomal enzymes. Long-term toxic exposure leads to hepatomegaly and immunosuppression. In addition, conifers contain acids that irritate the respiratory tract and increase susceptibility to respiratory diseases. Dissolving in the blood, aromatic hydrocarbons are filtered through the kidneys, damaging them. Animals kept in wooden cages or on a bedding of pine sawdust, over time they become less resistant to infections, especially of the respiratory tract, and are also more difficult to tolerate therapy medicines and anesthesia.

Fillers can be used for cat litter. But they often contain clay and, accordingly, a lot of dust. It's bad for your lungs! In addition, small granules can get into the throat, causing asphyxia and the rat suffocating.

Granular litter for rodents – great choice, but it is somewhat expensive, pay attention to the uniformity and composition of the granules.

The litter is changed as needed, but at least once a week. Regular shift litter avoids the accumulation of bacteria and ammonia, which are the causes of many diseases respiratory system. If you feel the smell, then imagine what your rat feels?!

Many rats use a separate place in the cage for toileting, encourage this and leave a little droppings for the smell when changing the bedding. In hot or humid weather, the cage should be cleaned more often (once a day or every two days). Availability high humidity in a cage (including from urine) can cause the development of fungus, which can enter the lungs of a rodent and cause a disease - mycosis, as well as cause intestinal disorders and skin diseases.

You can wash the cage hot water with soda or soap, scrub off heavy dirt with a brush. Do not use chlorine-containing disinfectants on galvanized surfaces. After using disinfectants, rinse the cage thoroughly. Residues from detergents and disinfectants can cause irritation to the skin and mucous membranes, eyes and respiratory organs.

Temperature regime.

Rats are nocturnal animals, so they do not tolerate high temperatures. When overheated, rats do not sweat like humans and do not breathe open mouth sticking out their tongues like dogs. They use their tail for thermoregulation: dilation of blood vessels leads to increased heat transfer. This is why tailless rats are so vulnerable to overheating and temperature changes. Overheating causes heat stroke, including loss of consciousness. With diseases of the heart and respiratory system, sensitivity to temperature changes increases sharply.

By touching the temperature of the tail, you can determine whether your rat’s body temperature is elevated. Usually the tail is cool to the touch, it should not be warm!

For temperature control environment use a thermometer by placing it near the cage.

If it is very hot outside, then you need to curtain the windows and place the cage on the floor, where it is cooler. The bathroom is usually cooler - place the cage there. Ventilate the room at night and close the windows during the day. Another way is to place frozen ice cubes in a cage; when they evaporate, they cool the air and give drinking water for rats (it's like ice cream for them). Instead of ice, you can use frozen vegetables or fruits, herbal infusions with juices.

You can use a spray bottle and make a “little rain”.

Rats usually tolerate cold temperatures more easily, especially if there is good bedding in which to burrow. But very low temperatures(in winter) can lead to hypothermia of the animal and exacerbation of chronic diseases. Rats with poor fur (Rexes and Nudics) are especially affected. It is necessary to provide warmth using heating pads or special heating mats, and close the cage and wrap it with cloth to prevent drafts.

Drinking water.

It is very important that your rats always have fresh water in their drinking bowl. The rat drinks twice as much water as it eats food. Thoroughly wash all components of the drinking bowl every day, scald them with boiling water and remove salt deposits from the walls.

Carefully inspect the drinker after washing and assembling: is the water flowing well, is it leaking. Better make a mark on outer surface bottles to keep track of water regime(water consumption).

For drinking, it is better to use bottled drinking water or filtered tap water. Fluoridation and chlorination of water makes it toxic to rodents.

For animals with heart or kidney disease, use water depleted in sodium (no more than 150 mg/l).

Melt water is perfect for drinking. Freeze the cubes and thaw them to the point of “cloudy ice” - these are salts and “dirt”. Melt water with a drop of honey added is life-giving moisture!

When buying a rat as a pet, you need to think about the right home for it. It must be such that the animal can move freely. It is best if the home has two to four floors, each no lower than twenty centimeters. But a house that is too tall will not work either. As the animals grow older, they climb less actively and more often choose one cozy place where they stay most time. It's hard for them to climb up. In addition, the height may be unsafe; rats may fall from it and be injured. Therefore, if the cage is too high, you need to arrange the shelves so that they overlap each other. Between them you can hang hammocks for insurance.

The cage should be such that the rat can move freely around it

The distance between the rods is selected taking into account the size of the animal. For babies - no more than one centimeter, for adult, well-fed males - two and a half. The ease of use of the cage is of no small importance. You should be able to easily reach the most remote corners for cleaning. When choosing a specific model, consider its build quality.

You should not choose an aquarium as a house - it is difficult to ventilate, and at the bottom it collects carbon dioxide. An animal in such a home will feel bad and will not live long. In addition, it is difficult to clean. It is best to choose a specialized cage with metal bars and a plastic tray. Place paper or wood shavings on the bottom.

When arranging a cage, you need to divide it into several zones. One of them is reserved for sleeping. It is imperative to place at least one house or closed hammock in it. The fact is that rodents hide from their enemies, and if the pet does not have a suitable place for this, he will constantly feel danger. The psyche suffers from this - the animal becomes excitable and frightened.

House

A variety of materials are used for their manufacture, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Wood is environmentally friendly and harmless, but easily absorbs liquid and emits bad smell. Therefore wooden house There should be no bottom; it must be washed often and periodically replaced with a new one.
Cardboard is affordable, easily chewed by rats, which is why it quickly loses its quality.
Plywood has all the disadvantages of wood and contains glue that can be toxic.
Fabric - they are completely safe, but are not suitable for rats that constantly chew on surrounding objects. In addition, such a house needs to be washed often, as it gets dirty quickly.
Plastic – does not absorb odors and is easy to clean. It is better to choose a home made from hard plastic, since after contact with the teeth of an animal on soft material sharp pieces remain - they can damage his mouth.

Cardboard, plywood, plastic, wood, fabric are used to make cages

The house should be spacious enough for the rat to stand in it without touching its head to the ceiling.

The best option is a two-story cage with a large entrance.

Hammock

This is a hanging fabric bed. In addition, you can find wicker and knitted samples on sale. There are two types of hammock:

Closed - a kind of hole between two layers of material, sheltering the animal from cold or light.
Open - usually a single layer of fabric on which the rat can lie quietly.

Almost all rodents love hammocks, so when arranging a cage, it is advisable to think about purchasing them. Hammocks do not take up much space; they can be hung from the ceiling and not take up usable area at the bottom.

Bed

They are quite rare in large rat cages. This is due to the fact that they are made from fabric that quickly absorbs liquids and bad odors. In addition, the pet can chew it off, use it for the toilet or store food. But some animals love this item. Therefore, it is worth watching your little rat. Instead of a couch, you can install all kinds of baskets, boxes without a top, and other devices.

Toilet

Not all rats know how to go to the litter box. Moreover, it is almost impossible to teach them this. More often, rodents ignore this item or sleep in it. Therefore, almost all owners add filler to the bottom of the cage. But some combine both options and additionally install trays on the shelves. It can be plastic containers or corner toilets.

It is almost impossible to teach a rat to go to the litter box, so filler is poured at the bottom of the cage

The filler absorbs all the pet's waste and eliminates bad odors. The options are varied:

Sawdust is very popular, but it must be used carefully. Conifers cause irritation and allergies and do not hold moisture well.
Corn filler is harmless to the animal and easily absorbs moisture.
Pressed wood pellets– cope well with their main task, but when wet they immediately crumble. Granules that are too hard can damage your pet's paws.
Napkins and paper towels- harmless, but they need to be changed often, as rats take away the paper.
Paper filler - soft granules perfectly absorb liquid, but are powerless against odor and require frequent replacement.
Absorbent diapers are convenient and practical, but are only suitable for calm pets who do not chew anything.
Hay – it is not recommended to choose it, as the sharp sticks hurt the skin.

You should not choose cat litter for rats - rodents can taste them. Once in the intestines, the granules can injure it, and printing ink is highly toxic.

Dining room

Bowls and drinking bowls should be placed in this area. Pet stores offer a wide range of similar products, so choose best option very simple.

Bowls

Rat breeders usually buy a set: one bowl is intended for dry food and is always kept in the cage, the second is used for complementary feeding. Items may differ in design and installation method. The usual options are made in the form of a plate and are installed on a shelf or bottom. Bowls with fastenings are fixed to the rods. Various materials are used for manufacturing:

Metal - it has only one drawback - it rattles a lot. In addition, such bowls are light in weight, and the rat will constantly turn them over.
Plastic – not suitable for chewing animals. But it is also lightweight.
Ceramics, thick glass- the best option. These bowls are stable and heavy and cannot be overturned.

Drinking bowls

For water, you can use regular bowls or buy special samples at a pet store. In the first case, the contents quickly become contaminated, so the water will have to be changed at least twice a day. In hot weather, the rat will both drink and cool itself by scooping up water with its paws.

Drinkers do not allow the liquid to become contaminated, but some specimens may become jammed, which can result in the animal being left without drinking for the whole day. Therefore, it is recommended to place two drinkers in the cage. They are different:

Other accessories

What else should be in a rat's cage? Rodents love to play and explore various objects. Therefore, the home can be equipped with tunnels, labyrinths and ladders. In addition, pet stores sell all kinds of toys - walking balls, balls, running wheels. When choosing, you need to consider individual preferences pet - not all entertainment may be to his liking. You can also hang a rope and install pipes that are designed for ferrets. The main thing is that these pleasant trifles were comfortable and safe for rats.

A mineral stone or chalk must be placed in the cage to grind down the teeth. One of the unfavorable factors that adversely affects the animal is dry air, so it is advisable to buy a humidifier and install it in the room where the cage is located. When buying accessories for your rat, remember that she will try many of them on. This means that from time to time you will have to throw away damaged things and buy new ones.

Cleaning the cage
Svetlana Pazhiltseva
Photo by Elena Kenunen

The cage is the place in the apartment where the rat lives. This is where she spends most of her time, and we can make sure that your beloved animal feels comfortable in her own home.
What’s so special about rats is that if they are kept correctly, there is no “zoo effect” in the apartment. The cage where rats live should not emit an unpleasant odor. And for this there is no need to wash and clean all the waste products of your pet every day. It is enough to clean the cage only 1-2 times a week. But the combination will be very important good selection filler and low cell population. So if you keep one rat in a huge cage, but on newspapers, or on super-filler, but a large number of rats and in a cramped cage - the smell will undoubtedly appear.
We will consider it optimal to keep one or two rats in a cage with dimensions of 40*50*30 (h*d*w) and at least 3 cm of filler layer thickness (you can be generous here). As a filler for rat cells We will use special medium-sized briquetted sawdust or granulated wood filler for cat litter. This filler is harmless, even if the rat starts to taste it or rolls its favorite cucumber in it. In addition, the filler perfectly absorbs moisture and retains odor.
Which type of filler to choose is determined by personal experience, selection based on personal preferences.

Cons of granular filler:
- high price
- when jumping and digging in the cage, the rats rattle the pellets loudly
- not every rat likes to sleep on hard granules
- some types of granules very quickly disintegrate into dust when wet and stick together.

And, of course, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the cage!
Our article will teach you how to do this correctly.


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At the first stage we have: a cage used and trampled by rats, a carrier for putting rats out, a brush, a garbage bag (Fig. 1).
Naturally, first of all, we will put the rats in a carrier so that they do not interfere and do not get underfoot (Fig. 2). Now you can safely take out various rat gadgets: drinking bowls, feeders, hammocks and remove the grid from the cage (Fig. 3).


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Clean the house and other toys from sawdust with a brush and remove them from the tray (Fig. 4).
Now our task is to carefully secure the used filler and used hammocks. To do this, take out a garbage bag (or any other bag of suitable size) and place the pallet inside (Fig. 5 and Fig. 6).


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Shake the remaining sawdust into the bag with a special brush (Fig. 7). We tie the bag so that nothing spills (Fig. 8). Please note - not a single piece of sawdust could escape unnoticed! ;)
We move on to the second stage - direct washing of the cage. For this we need: a bath (preferably with hot water), detergent, sponge, towel (Fig. 9).
We fill the tray with water and thoroughly wipe all the nooks and crannies (Fig. 10),


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We soap the grate on both sides (Fig. 11), in this state you can leave the cage for several minutes. We take out the floors, feeders, ladders and wash them separately - also soaping them on both sides (Fig. 12).
We thoroughly rinse all the grates and the tray (Fig. 13). If there is such a need, then the washed cage can be wiped with a solution

Hamsters and guinea pigs are popular pets. They do not take up much space, but despite their compact size, they need care and attention no less than larger pets.

The importance of hygiene

One of the main problems of keeping rodents is the smell. Owners know that most of their charges choose a certain corner in the cage for the toilet. Therefore, in order to minimize the “aroma”, it is enough to remove wet sawdust once a day and add fresh sawdust. This will help reduce odor and allow for general cleaning Once every two weeks.

The choice of litter for rodents also plays a big role in hygiene. Ordinary scraps of newspaper will not work here - as they do not absorb the smell well, and the animal itself risks being poisoned by printing ink. Therefore, as a bedding for little friend It is better to purchase special fillers sold in pet stores. They better absorb the “aroma” of animal activity and are completely harmless to them.

Filler selection

Manufacturers offer different types filler for rodents. All of them are made from natural materials: wood (pellets or sawdust), corn fibers, as well as other plant components, such as hay and sand. Some of the beddings have an aromatic fragrance, thanks to which they skillfully mask all unpleasant odors. However, owners of animals prone to allergic reactions should avoid such products.

When choosing a filler, the following requirements should be taken into account:

The bedding should be comfortable for the animal. For small rodents, granules will be uncomfortable, and large pets will scatter light sawdust.
Ability to absorb unpleasant odors. An important detail, especially if there are several rodents in the house.
Safety. The bedding material should be only natural and, if possible, free of fragrances, so as not to cause allergies. It should not generate dust, as this may affect Airways animal and cause diseases.

Wood filler

One of the most popular brands wood litter are "Clean Paws", produced Russian company"Ark St. Petersburg".

In production, only natural raw materials are used, which are easy to dispose of without harm to the environment. In addition, such bedding has a natural smell, which is important for small animals.

The price for “Clean Paws” is quite affordable, which cannot but please the buyer.

Sawdust

Sawdust is a universal bedding for Djungarian hamsters and others small rodents. Wood processing products are used for the filler, so it is completely natural and safe for the health of children.

Possibility to choose large or small as well as reasonable price undoubtedly are the advantages of this particular product.

The disadvantages include:

Ease. Since dwarfs love to dig, you will have to remove the scattered filler quite often.
The litter is not highly absorbent and is not a leader in odor absorption.

Cellulose

This perfect option for allergic rodents, as it does not contain wood dust. This filler is less popular than wood filler, and it is much more difficult to find on the shelves of pet stores. It does not retain the smell well, it is light, so the animal will constantly scatter it. But it is safe for babies, as it does not get tangled in fur, does not get stuck in cheek pockets and does not cause health problems in animals with allergies to wood dust.

Corn

Corn litter for rodents in its qualities is one of best views litter It perfectly absorbs moisture and completely neutralizes odor. Even with large species of hamsters, cleaning the cage can be done much less frequently, since the “aroma” appears much later than when using other types of litter.

Fine sawdust allows it to be used for very small animals: dwarf birds, mice, etc. Those who like to rummage through litter can dig up whole mountains of corn filler around them overnight. It is absolutely harmless for rodents; its particles cannot damage their paws, it does not cause allergies and does not get tangled in animal fur.

Summarizing

Choosing the perfect bedding for your pet is quite a difficult task. An extensive range can help a beginner. Therefore, before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the types of hygienic filler and determine which one is ideal for the animal. You can also consult with rodent lovers on specialized websites.

It is important to understand that not only the health and well-being of the pet, but also hygiene and the smell in the apartment depend on a well-chosen bedding, especially if there are several pets.