Little brown worms in a bed of manure. What to do if there are white worms in an indoor flower? Pests that attack above-ground parts of plants

Earthworms

Earthworms are the main soil formers that contribute to soil aeration and moisture.

They feed on the remains of plants, but for immature garden and flower crops pose some danger. Actively moving in the ground, worms can damage thin roots and cause plants to dry out. The people who can suffer the most from worms are: indoor flowers.

It is almost impossible to fight these insects in open ground. But it’s quite easy to protect indoor flowers from their effects. To do this, place the pot in a bowl of water for eight minutes. The worms begin to choke and crawl out on their own.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in vertical position has its merits and " side effects" I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous to both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists readily use large inflorescences for wedding decorations and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will explain why this happens in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects appearance and plant yield, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberry, as we used to call it - one of the earliest fragrant berries, which summer generously bestows upon us. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds They have been pickling since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although a very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and other countries South-East Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive and butter in a pan; this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, it’s surprising excellent harvests, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in middle lane, but also in the Urals and Siberia.

Many decorative and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, they suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period suffer from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March Sun rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Every vegetable has its time,” and every plant has its optimal time for landing. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.

Chili con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texas and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.

Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is little secret, which will significantly increase their productivity. We are talking about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in their own garden. Atlant microbiological fertilizer will help with this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the root system area and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, remain healthy and produce high yields. Typically, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants There are many beautiful flowering species. They are in the summer when they get the most bright lighting and optimal daylight hours, they can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops also look like living bouquets.

These pests damage underground part plants. Some species spoil plantings in new, recently planted gardens, others - in established ones that have been bearing fruit for a number of years. In new areas, larvae of click beetles - wireworms, caterpillars of harmful cutworms, and beetle larvae - are most often found. Where the garden has been cultivated for a long time and the soil is rich in organic matter, worms, nematodes, centipedes, garden midge larvae, etc. live.

The caterpillars of various moths are dangerous for the garden only in the first year of its cultivation, since in well-cared for perennial beds conditions arise that are unfavorable for the development of this pest. Wireworms remain in new gardens for several seasons, as their development cycle covers 3-5 calendar years. As for other soil pests, they can be dangerous especially where the soil is excessively wet.

Scoops

The most common cutworm that appears in gardens is the winter cutworm ( Scotia segetum), upsilon armyworm ( Scotia ypsilon), scoop exclamation ( Scotia exclamationis) and blackish cutworm C ( Amathes C-nigrum), as well as some others. In the spring months, their caterpillars damage the roots of all types of vegetables and ornamental crops. First, the caterpillars occupy the above-ground parts of plants and gnaw round holes in the leaves. At the third stage of their development, they move into the soil and eat the roots. Most often, cutworms attack cabbage, lettuce, carrots, seedlings ornamental plants. Unfortunately, gardeners usually do not notice in time that caterpillars are eating the above-ground parts of plants, and therefore do not take the necessary protective measures.

Click beetle larvae - wireworms

In young, recently planted gardens or in old ones, but in those places where grasses usually grew, and now beds have been created, wireworms and click beetle larvae cause great damage to the plantings. The greatest damage comes from the striped click beetle, or bread beetle ( Agriotes lineatus), and the smoky clicknut ( A. ustulatus); In some places there are four more species of this insect.

Click beetle larvae attack the underground organs of vegetable crops, ornamental plants and strawberries. They eat small roots of seedlings, eat out or bite the main root of a plant, make corridors, for example, in carrots, celery, as well as in tulip and daffodil bulbs, in tubers of gladioli and dahlias. Damaged plants begin to curl and wither; their underground parts, important from a practical point of view, lose all value. Greatest harm wireworms are applied in March-June and in September-October, when they are placed in upper layers soil. During the drier summer season, the larvae crawl deeper into the ground. Only larvae of the brilliant click beetle ( Corymbites aeneus) remain on the soil surface and eat succulent parts of plants. The development cycle of the click beetle is 3-5 years, during this period the plants in the beds where this pest has settled are under constant threat.

Larvae of May beetles - Khrushchev

From time to time, beetles may appear in the garden. Most often this is Western May Khrushchev ( Melolontha melolontha). It lives in the soil and damages the underground organs of plants - vegetables, ornamental crops, strawberries and fruit trees. If for one square meter There are 1-2 larvae per garden area, then you need to sound the alarm. Seedlings of vegetables and ornamental plants damaged by the larva die; fruit trees are only at risk in the first two years after planting.

During the years of abundant appearance of Western May beetles, the damage they cause to cherry, apple, plum trees and roses is especially great. During such periods, it is recommended to shake the beetles from the trees and destroy them mechanically.

Centipede larvae(Tipulidae)

In gardens planted in damp places, in the first years, vegetables and ornamental plants are under threat of attack by centipede larvae. Therefore, it may be advisable to check, even before laying out the beds on moderately soaking lands, whether there are centipedes here and in what quantity. The test is carried out as follows: on a test area measuring one square. meter is mowed down or all vegetation is pulled out, and the bare surface is watered with a solution of table salt (at the rate of 1 kg of salt per 5 liters of water). After such watering, the larvae will crawl to the surface. By counting them, we will get an idea of ​​the degree of contamination of the territory and can, if necessary, resort to chemical means of protection.

The longer the soil is cultivated in the garden, the more pests there are. Let's name a few more of the most common ones.

Centipedes

Centipedes, especially the fragile centipede ( Polydesmus complanatus) and blind centipede ( Blaniulus guttulatus), can grow excessively in composts. In damp summers, they can cause especially great harm to seedlings to whose roots compost soil was added during planting. Centipedes also eat the bulbs of ornamental plants and feast on ripening strawberries. Where these pests appear, it is necessary to reduce the soil moisture by adding ash to it. In berry gardens, you can place wood wool or some other bedding under the fruits, which will have to be replaced with a new one from time to time.

Earthworms, earthworms (Lumbhcidae)

Earthen or earthworms benefit the garden. By digging underground corridors, they aerate the soil; a sufficient amount of air accelerates the process of decomposition of organic substances occurring in it. However, when there are too many worms in the ground, as a result of their activity, the stability of the seedlings decreases, the adhesion of the roots to the soil is weakened, and the germinating plant is pulled under the surface. Therefore, in exceptional cases it is necessary to protect plants from worms. Then it is recommended to fill the unsown beds with warm (about 40 ° C) water.

Clover nematode(Ditylenchus dipsaci)

The nematode also lives on many types of weeds, and therefore protection against it is very difficult. It is recommended to destroy affected plants and reduce soil moisture; if necessary, you can resort to chemicals.

Garden midge larvae (Bibionidae)

In some places, garden midge larvae cause considerable damage to gardens. Female midges lay their eggs in compost or soil well saturated with humus. The larvae of this pest are found mainly in greenhouses and in those beds where compost soil is also added to ordinary garden soil. In summer, the larvae feed on tender roots and smoldering plant debris, and after wintering they attack germinating plants. There is only one way to avoid the mass appearance of garden midge larvae - always use only well-ripened, decayed compost.

Mole cricket (Gryllotalpa gryllotalpa)

It can be very difficult to cope with the common mole cricket. She gnaws roots or makes corridors under the very surface of the earth, thereby shaking young plants. This pest creates nests of clay 10 cm below the level of the bed, so that the roots of planted crops are exposed and wither. The location of such a nest can be detected by the so-called. focal wilting of plants.

The number of mole crickets in the garden can be reduced by catching them using smooth-walled vessels immersed to the very edges in the ground. In June-July it is recommended to destroy the nests.

Onion mite (Rhizoglyphus echinopus)

It is equally difficult to cope with another soil pest - the root bulb mite. It damages roots and rhizomes, attacking both food onions and the bulbs of ornamental plants. It is not difficult to find out about his “activity”: small, chaotically located corridors filled with small brown droppings are visible in the ground. Soil moisture promotes the proliferation of this pest. You can get rid of mites by storing the bulbs in a dry, well-ventilated place. It is possible, if necessary, to use chemicals.

Pests that attack above-ground parts of plants

Many pests garden plants They eat their aerial parts.

Slug, gastropod(Gastropoda) Most often the field slug appears in gardens ( Deroceras agreste), as well as the net-like slug ( D. reticulatum), smooth slug ( D. laeve), garden slug ( Arion hortensis) and garden snail ( Helix pomatia). Slugs damage above-ground and underground parts of plants, eat holes in the bulbs of tulips and daffodils, in the tubers of gladioli and other plants. Of the above-ground organs, leaves and stems suffer most from them. As for young plants, they are capable of completely destroying them. We know that our garden has been visited by slugs by the leaf blades eaten from the top and by the traces left behind - silvery drying mucus and dark viscous droppings.

Slugs can be controlled mechanically. It is also recommended to sprinkle the paths around the beds with lime, ash, pine needles or a chemical. Common earwig ( Forficula auricularis)

The common earwig is one of the omnivorous pests of the above-ground parts of plants in our gardens. This insect eats leaves and stems, feasts on buds and flowers, especially dahlias, carnations and roses. Leaves and petals acquire jagged edges after earwig feasts. This pest also eats ripening fruits - pears, plums, apricots, peaches.

The best way to deal with an earwig is to lure it into specially prepared shelters made of straw, rags, burlap, or wood wool, and then destroy everything together.

Spider mites (Tetranychidae)

Pests of fruit trees, shrubs, various vegetables and ornamental plants include various types of spider mites. They harm leaves and plants in general by sucking out surface cells. The leaves begin to turn yellow, later become whitish, become discolored and finally fall off. On next year plants affected by this pest will, as a rule, fewer flowers, and, therefore, fruits. Ticks are considered dangerous and persistent opponents also because several of their generations manage to develop within one year. Therefore, it is recommended to intensively use chemicals against them.

If the pest is severely damaged, the loss can amount to 30-70% of the entire crop, and the formation of flowers can decrease by 75%. In the spring, ticks are not so noticeable, but spraying with chemicals carried out at this time gives better results than twice, but at the height of summer itself. Ticks cause especially great damage in warm, dry weather. Protective measures against mites should be carried out primarily before flowering begins and immediately after it ends. Spring spraying against fruit mites (Panonychus ulmi) should be timed to coincide with the period when 60-80% of all larvae have already appeared; in this case, it is necessary to use drugs that will simultaneously destroy both the larvae and the testicles.

If we were unable to reduce the number of mites to an acceptable level on the eve of spring and during it, then we should be prepared for the fact that during the growing season we will have many difficulties with plant protection. The fact is that then this pest will already be present on the leaves of plants in all stages of its development, i.e. there will be testicles, larvae, and adult bugs, to combat which you will have to use various chemicals. Most of the drugs used do not kill the summer eggs, from which the larvae then emerge; As a result, the pest population quickly recovers.

1. spray taking into account the specific level of infestation;

2. where mites appear regularly, it is necessary to at least temporarily stop using drugs that promote their development;

3. use various chemicals for spraying so that the pest does not develop immunity to a particular drug.

Aphid (Aphidoidea)

Thrips, fringed winged (Thysanoptera)

The leaves, and partly the fruits of trees, can be affected by the caterpillars of several species of butterflies. The main eaters on fruit trees are moths and silkworms.

Moths (Geometridae)

Caterpillars of the winter moth, or small surveyor ( Operophtera brumata), cause significant damage to cherry, apple, pear, plum trees, as well as roses, in their multi-year cycles. In spring they eat leaves and flower buds, and after flowering - fruit set. First, moths make round holes on the leaves, and then gradually destroy the entire blade, sometimes leaving only one main vein. In young fruits, caterpillars eat deep oval shape recesses. On cherry trees they sometimes manage to destroy the entire crop. On pear trees, after flowering they eat only the fruits.

Similar damage is also caused by the moth-peeler, or the fruit moth ( Erannis defoliaria); this pest, fortunately, is not so numerous.

You can fight against moths in the following way. In October, the tree trunk is wrapped in a paper belt, which is covered special glue so that wingless females of this pest cannot reach the crown and lay eggs there. Goldentail, or goldtail silkworm, gypsy moth, or gypsy moth, ringed cocoon moth, or ringed silkworm

In abandoned orchards or in plantings where the trees are poorly cared for, pear, apple and plum trees are eaten by the lacewing caterpillar ( Euproctis chrysorrhoea). Before winter comes, this pest makes nests of leaves on the tops of branches, where it overwinters. If you destroy these nests in a timely manner, you can prevent pest attacks on trees in the spring. Otherwise, in the first warm days, the caterpillars will leave their shelter and attack the kidneys. Later they will move on to leaves and flowers. If there is at least one such nest per 3 m 3 of crown, the tree cannot be protected from being eaten, and the future harvest cannot be protected from loss.

Real leaf rollers(Tortricidae)

Protecting fruit trees and some shrubs from leaf and bud budworms is not an easy task. This pest attacks mainly apple, pear, and plum trees, but can also settle on apricot and rose bushes, although it is less dangerous to the last two plants. In the spring, leaf roller caterpillars devour the buds; Young trees are in particular danger: losses can be as high as 80%. Then the pests move on to the opening leaves, biting holes in them and eating buds and flowers. Damaged leaves are smaller, curled, and corrugated.

The caterpillars of the next, new generation already in the second half of summer also live on the leaves, eating them almost entirely. In addition, they make many small holes or shallow pits in the skin of apples and other fruits, usually in those places where the fruit is covered with leaves and the skin has not yet acquired its usual color. Fruits with such defects can no longer be left for storage, as they quickly rot. In some years, leaf rollers are capable of destroying a third of the crop in this way.

The most common leaf roller in gardens is the knotweed leaf roller, or bud roller ( Spilonota ocellana), apple budworm ( Argyroploce variegata), fruit leaf roller ( Pandemis heparana), pink leafroller (Cacoecia rosana), and honeysuckle leafroller ( Capua recticulana).

Lithocolletis and Lyonetia

In gardens with intensive farming, often large quantities lithocolletis and lionetia appear. The caterpillars of these pests eat away, making winding paths, leaf blades various plants. The most common Lithocolletis apple ( Lithocolletis blancardella) and Lyonetia fruit ( Lyonetia clerkella). Caterpillars of Lithocolletis vulgaris often eat apple tree leaves, less often they appear on pear and mountain ash, leaving behind oval-shaped holes 0.2-0.8 mm wide and 1-2 cm long. If there are more than three potholes per leaf, then crop losses cannot be avoided. Trees heavily affected by the pest usually bloom little the following year. In such cases, it is recommended to chemically treat the trees two weeks after the end of flowering. If the pest damage is serious, the tree treatment should be repeated after 7-10 days.

Caterpillars of apple lithocolletis form, from May to October, winding and long paths on the leaves of apple, cherry and cherry trees. There can be 10-15 such tracks on one sheet. Damaged leaves dry out and fall off prematurely. Treatment of trees with chemicals is recommended only in case of severe damage; it is carried out when the second generation emerges.

Geese

In spring, the flower buds of apple, cherry, cherry and plum trees are often eaten by apple geese ( Rhynchites bacchus) and several other species of this insect. The most dangerous is the apple goose, which lays its eggs in the fruits of fruit trees. Damaged fruits develop unevenly and often rot.

Bark beetle and other pests that destroy bark

The apricot leaf roller mainly damages apricot, peach and cherry trees, less often plum, apple and pear trees. Its caterpillars eat out corridors in the lower inner layers of the bark; the places where they feasted can be easily identified by the piles of rusty droppings that they push to the surface of the bark. This kind of damage to a tree is often accompanied by gummosis - gum formation.

The leaf roller most often attacks old trees, penetrating under the bark in those places where it is wounded and laying its eggs there. Therefore, the affected areas should not be cleaned mechanically, so as not to further damage the trunk or branch.

It is even more difficult to fight fruit woodworm and bark beetles that settle on weakened trees. Here it is necessary to carry out preventive protective measures, which include right choice places to plant the tree, as well as providing it with proper nutrition. Places that are too damp or places where the ground is too dry are not suitable for planting fruit trees. Trees affected by the bark beetle are identified by the following signs: their leaves suddenly begin to wither and their branches begin to dry out. On the branches of such trees, as a rule, you can find tiny holes a millimeter in diameter. The bark beetle lays its corridors only under the bark, while the woodworm eats into the wood itself.

Rodents

Dangerous pests of garden plants include lagomorphs and rodents. Hares and wild rabbits sometimes eat tree bark and shoots in winter ornamental shrubs. To protect tree plantings from them, some kind of preparation is applied to the trunks of fruit trees in the winter. specific smell, repelling animals. However, it is best to place wire or reed fences around the trunks.

During the years of active breeding of field mice (gray vole - Microtus arvalis) the bark of fruit trees can also be damaged by them. Rodents will gnaw it at the surface of the ground in winter. The vole eats bulbs and tubers of ornamental plants. To avoid losses, it is recommended to destroy mice in their burrows and underground passages using smoke bombs.

In gardens located next to a river or in damp, soaking places, there is another dangerous pest- water rat ( Arvicola terrestris). It chews through the roots of fruit trees, eats root crops and underground parts of ornamental plants. Treating plants and soil with chemicals does not give good results. Therefore, it is recommended to invest in underground corridors dug by rodents, calcium carbide, smoke bombs, or smoke out pests using exhaust gases. But all these methods give only a temporary effect, and therefore the fight against rodents has to be waged constantly. The following measures are most effective: even before planting the tree, lay out a prepared hole around the entire circumference of the galvanized metal mesh with cells of approximately 2 cm; then rodents will not be able to reach the roots.

Birds

Birds, primarily the house sparrow and greenfinch, peck flower buds of currants, gooseberries, pears, apricot and peach trees in the spring. Sparrows also destroy lettuce seedlings.

Birds are the culprits big losses harvest of fruits and berries. Thus, house sparrows, black and song thrushes, and common starlings peck ripe cherry fruits, currants and grapes. They feast on ripening pears, apricots, peaches, and peck at strawberries. Blackbirds also love tomatoes.

We usually scare away birds in the garden and field with various mechanical devices. An effective measure is to stretch a nylon mesh over trees and bushes; then the birds will not be able to fly into the fruits at all. You can drive them away using various optical and sound devices (crackers, scarecrows, etc.).

Plant protection from pests

In the same way that we act when protecting plants from various diseases, we should act when protecting plantings from uninvited guests from the animal world, namely: directing the main efforts to preventive measures in order to reduce the number of potential pests or at least reduce the intensity of their attack.

Preventive measures include monitoring the condition of stored bulbs and tubers, reducing relative humidity air in greenhouses, limiting the proliferation of tick mites, ventilating rooms and systematically spraying plants with water, which is very effective in the fight against spider mites. High-quality seedlings taken from healthy mother plants, etc. will help us get rid of nematodes.

Since pests differ from each other in their biological features, gardeners have to resort to a variety of protective measures. Sometimes the appearance of a pest can be minimized by eliminating the so-called. intermediate host, which often includes weeds wild plants. In other cases, mechanical collection of testicles, caterpillars, and beetles will help; Various baits will also come in handy, after which it will be easier to deal with the pest. An anthill that appears in a greenhouse is watered with boiling water. Podura or ponytails will also retreat if we manage to reduce soil moisture or sprinkle its surface thin layer lime, ash, sand or crushed charcoal. To prevent excessive proliferation of snails and slugs, it is recommended to sprinkle the paths with quicklime, etc.

Selected for winter storage fruits, vegetables, bulbs and tubers of ornamental plants must be completely healthy, without damage, because any flaws are a gate through which putrefactive fungi and bacteria penetrate first.

In the storage area, immediately after storing vegetables and fruits, it is necessary to create conditions that limit the possibility of putrefactive fungi and bacteria entering there. Most Plant products should be stored at a temperature of 2-5°C and a relative humidity of 85-90%. When the humidity is below 80%, a lot of water evaporates from fruits with juicy pulp and from the roots, and when it is above 90%, fungi and, most importantly, putrefactive bacteria begin to multiply quickly. By observing the correct ventilation mode and regulating the level of air humidity, we create the most favorable conditions for winter storage of fruits, vegetables, bulbs and tubers.

Before filling the storage facility, it is very important to carry out a thorough disinfection there, for example, by fumigation (8 g of sulfur is burned per 1 m 3 of space), having previously sealed all the holes and cracks, and lubricated the metal parts with vegetable oil. The walls of the room should be whitewashed with lime or sprayed with a 5% formaldehyde solution. Shelves, window frames and doors are treated in a similar way. 24 hours after disinfection, the storage area is thoroughly ventilated. We must also not forget that before placing them in storage, tubers and bulbs of ornamental plants must be pre-treated.

When storing root vegetables, garlic, potatoes, and pome fruits for winter storage, you must very carefully select healthy specimens, since those intended for food herbal products cannot be exposed chemical treatment. Potatoes, fruits, and onions are best placed in a thin layer or even in one row on lattice shelves. Onions and garlic should be kept on shelves in dry rooms where the temperature is slightly below 0°C.

During storage, it is necessary to promptly dispose of all fruits, bulbs and tubers that have begun to deteriorate, and also not to store apples and pears for longer than is practically possible. All this will be those preventive measures against losses in storage and against putrefactive diseases that affect vegetables, fruits, as well as bulbs and tubers of ornamental plants in winter.

Diseases and pests of garden plants. Part 1 Diseases and pests of garden plants. Part 8

Hello, dear subscribers and readers of our blog! By planting vegetable crops on our plot, we take care and expect a good harvest. It’s not enough to grow it; you also need to fight for the harvest. We will talk about the main garden pests.

COLORADO BEETLE

It is almost impossible to kill these voracious insects, but you can significantly reduce their numbers. Basically, they are collected by hand (this is effective) and it is better to inspect your plantings quite often, preventing the development of the larvae into full-fledged Colorado beetles, which will again bring forth huge offspring.

Of course, the tops are often treated with insecticides against these pests. And you can take care of the future harvest in the fall - the tops are cut off 7 days before the planned harvest of potatoes. After harvesting, the remaining small or diseased potatoes are removed from the area. The soil needs to be dug up so that the larvae and wintering Colorado potato beetles frozen out.

ANTS

– brown, turf, red-cheeked, ordinary garden, etc. – pests.

Not only do they themselves cause harm in the garden, they also contribute to the proliferation of aphids. It is better to fight both of these insects at once (more on this below). Ants search everywhere for aphids, which secrete their favorite treat - a sweet liquid. This can be used in the fight against them. You need to sprinkle a mixture of sugar and borax on the path. The insects themselves will take this delicacy to the queen and victory is guaranteed. She will perish, and with her the whole kingdom. Another one of the most original ways How to get rid of ants - prepare a sweet, low-alcohol drink for them. To prepare it you will need to mix jam and yeast. Let the mixture sit for several hours. Then place the bait directly in the greenhouse and wait for the ants to get drunk. Drunk ants, forgetting about their responsibilities, stop feeding the young. Repeat this procedure several times and the ant nest will die. The men will say: “Hey, I didn’t give beer to the ants!!!” Well then, sprinkle some millet on the anthill or around it, they love it too. However, the ant stomach cannot digest it. Victory! You can soak tree branches with flammable liquid, stick them (drive them into an anthill), pour the liquid over the anthill and set it on fire. It’s better, of course, to stir up this nest to get to the queen, but they’ll run away. To avoid missing enemies, limit the anthill before the operation metal sheets or slate and throw branches on top. Ants do not tolerate the smell of smoked herring (beer and smoked fish - snack lovers, brace yourself!!!) .... we must .... this is for the benefit of the garden! You can lay out the fish and sprinkle it with ash. The ants run away from this without looking back. But again, where are they running? You can’t spread it all over the area smoked fish and rotten herring - it'll be a dump. What else do we have?! They do not like garlic, lime, ash and tomato tops.

And now APHID.

This insect is very dangerous for the crop. Plum, currant, viburnum, apple, bird cherry and pear trees are especially susceptible to aphid attack. Aphids are very prolific. Try to lime the pest with nicotinic acid (sold at the pharmacy). Dilute 50 acid tablets in 10 liters of water - this is the basic solution. Then dilute 1 liter of the main solution in 10 liters of water and water the roots of the plants. After 5-7 days, the bugs disappear on their own and do not appear until the next attack, after about 1 -1.5 months. Another way: grind half a kilogram of horseradish root (on a grater or in a meat grinder) and add 5 liters of water room temperature. Leave for an hour, strain. Make another tincture. Mix both portions and store in a sealed container. Dilute another 300 grams of infusion in 10 liters of water and spray the trees. Not only aphids, but also mites cannot withstand such an attack.

WIREWEAR

This little worm is so bad! This is the name given to the worm-like larva of the click beetle. Affects root crops. It settles more often in acidic soils. Pay attention to wheatgrass - an indicator of acidic soils. Less wheatgrass means less wireworm. I noticed this grass on our site. But this year I won’t plant anything. I have time to inspect the area for various pest indicators, fertilize the soil and set aside space for a vegetable garden.

This means that first of all you should destroy this weed by liming acidic soils. In the fall, sprinkle (if possible in the spring, spread it on the snow) the ground with lime; when the snow melts, the lime will go into the ground. In the next season, before sowing plants subject to wireworm attacks, you can add ash, as well as potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water. Gardeners sometimes use bait: they string pieces of potatoes, carrots, and beets on a fishing line and place them in the soil to a depth of 5-12 cm between the rows. Sticks (marks) are tied to the ends of the fishing line and inserted into the ground. Every 2-3 days the bait should be pulled out, collected larvae, wetted a little and dropped in again. And so on throughout the summer. By the way, the wireworm cannot tolerate legumes, so if the area is heavily infested with this pest, sow peas, soybeans or beans, marigolds and mustard. When planting potatoes, plant 3 beans in each hole, this way you will not only drive away the wireworm, but your soil will also receive nitrogen.

CABBAGE WHITE

It is not the butterfly itself that is dangerous, but the caterpillar that emerges from the laid eggs. As a child, I always caught these butterflies with my sister, and with my grandmother they collected and destroyed pests - caterpillars.

The fact is that cabbage caterpillars are very voracious, so adult butterflies instinctively look for areas not occupied by competitors. This feature is to our advantage. Place or attach egg shell halves on the cabbage, white side up, and white butterflies will fly around your cabbage! The thing is that eggshells confuse them - it seems to them that the place is already taken. Caring parents - cabbage whites They will fly to look for another place where they can lay eggs so that their offspring will have enough food.

SLUGS

These soft-bodied guys become active in rainy years. Slugs damage about 150 plant species. Gluttonous bastards! Slugs carry spores of gray rot, downy mildew and other diseases. The time of greatest activity for slugs is night and rainy days. In dry weather, they hide in dark places, under stones, under lumps of soil. The fight against this pest should begin with the timely destruction of weeds and thinning of cultivated plants. It has been noticed that where the plantings are not thickened, the soil is loose and does not contain large lumps, slugs are less common. Therefore, you should not place crops that are heavily damaged by slugs (cabbage, carrots, potatoes) in low-lying, damp places. Add sand to the soil, make paths around the beds, 15-20 cm wide, from sawdust, sand, ash - it will be difficult for the snail to move, it will freak out and give up this idea... and go to the neighbors!!! The simplest remedy for slugs is to sprinkle the ground with lime in two steps, with an interval of 15 minutes. The snails quickly turn black and die.

MEDvedka

This insect, up to 5 cm in size, lives underground. The mole cricket gnaws the roots of plants - thereby spoiling and destroying them. They fight this insect with the help of branches of perennial chrysanthemums - “oaks”. You can bury them to a depth of 3 cm - she really doesn’t like the smell. The mole cricket also cannot stand the smell of marigold flowers. Plant marigolds throughout the area and along its contour, and the mole crickets will leave. Another way is ground eggshells mix with fragrant vegetable oil and dig near the holes with plants, or clog the mole crickets with this mass. After eating this mass, the mole cricket dies. In the spring, you can set up dung traps for mole crickets. At the beginning of May, spread heaps of fresh or rotted manure around the area (at least 2 heaps per acre). After 20 days, check them and destroy the mole crickets and clutches of eggs that have climbed there. Deep loosening of the soil to a depth of 10 - 15 cm destroys the mole cricket's passages and the laying of its eggs; for this purpose, in May and the first half of summer, loosen the soil more often between the rows. A fairly simple and sure way to destroy a mole cricket is to catch it and freeze it. Noooo, not in the freezer!!! In September, immediately after harvesting root crops and potatoes, dig holes in your area measuring 0.5 × 0.5 m and half a meter deep (at least two holes per hundred square meters) and fill them with horse manure or old leaves, humus, if there is no manure ( cheap and cheerful). It is best to add 2 - 3 tbsp to the contents of the pit. spoons of beer and 1 tablespoon of fragrant vegetable oil. The remaining mole crickets on the site will definitely go there for the winter. When persistent frost sets in, manure and mole crickets are scattered over the surface of the earth in a thin layer, and the mole crickets die from the cold. Well, or collect it and burn it in a bucket, for example, slowly. If, when sowing plants (vegetables), you throw a head of garlic into the hole, the mole cricket will not touch the roots. I think it won't hurt to plant garlic in the holes themselves.

TOMATO HORNED WORM

The tomato worm is green caterpillar with diagonal lines on the sides and a small horn. Tomato pests are actually larvae that overwinter in the soil. Adults emerge in late spring. After hatching, the tomato worm eats the foliage for a month before returning to the soil to pupate. Their coloration makes identification difficult. They are usually removed by hand, but if the infestation is very severe, organic pesticides are used.

SOVKA

Female adult cutworms lay eggs on the stems and petioles of plants. When warm weather sets in (May-June), caterpillars emerge from the eggs, which immediately bite into the stems and petioles, making longitudinal passages in them. This leads to the death of the plant. To destroy the pest, plants are treated with infusions and decoctions based on the herbs dope and burdock. Carrying out of this event timed to coincide with the period when butterflies begin to fly and caterpillars appear, while tomato bushes are sprayed three times, observing a frequency of 6-7 days between each. A decoction of wormwood, which needs to be sprayed on plants every 7 days, also has an effect; after just two days, the caterpillars begin to die. The steeper the broth, the better. You can ask the store about products suitable for treating tomatoes against cutworms, where they can advise you which product is best to choose. A week after the first spraying, it is necessary to carry out a secondary treatment.

Let's summarize: to preserve the harvest, it is necessary to remove weeds throughout the season, apply fertilizers (ash, lime...etc.) and in the fall remove diseased and wilted plants, tops and spoiled vegetables, thereby preventing the wintering of pests.

This is of course not the entire list of pests. But pests in the garden are a separate issue.

I wish you healthy and rich harvests!

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Enhytraeus(Enchytraeus), belonging to the genus of small-chaete worms - white or gray worms, from 1 to 3 sometimes 4 centimeters in length, very thin. Enchytraeus, or white milk worms, were named not only for their milky color, but also for their rapid reproduction if the soil is watered with milk. Enchytraeus live in clumps in garden soil and between plant roots. You've probably come across such small and thin worms in your garden or vegetable garden.

Enchytraeus feed on diseased or dead plant tissue, rotten strawberries or wild strawberries, fallen plums, pears, apples or vegetables in contact with the ground. You pick up an apple from the ground, and in the place where it came into contact with the ground, in the damage to the skin of the apple, you suddenly find a ball of wriggling little worms. These are the enchitraeus. We can say that the picture is not pleasant. Sometimes, out of ignorance, these worms are mistaken for nematodes.

Although it is believed that enchytraeus does not cause any harm to plants in a flower pot, their presence does not go unnoticed for the plants: the plants stop growing, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the plant looks sick, and shows signs of a flooded plant. All these symptoms occur due to the fact that the worms constantly damage the earthen ball. Even with a small accumulation in a confined space of a pot, enchytraeus begins to eat up the roots of the plant. Determine what it is flower worms harm to the plant can only be determined during replanting. If nothing is done, the plant may die.

You can get rid of enchytraeus in the same way as you can get rid of earthworms - by immersion flower pot in water. The Enchytraeus should surface. But more often than not, it all ends with replanting the plant.

Prevention against Enchytraeus

Monitor the watering of plants and do not allow the soil to become waterlogged. Use only heat-treated garden soil to prepare soil mixtures.

To protect plants from earthen pests and various fungal diseases, garden soil must be calcined or steamed before use. It's not the same thing. You can calcinate the earth in the oven or microwave by simply scattering it in a thin layer on a baking sheet. Steaming is steam treatment in a water bath. Pour water into a large saucepan or bucket and bring to a boil. A cup of soil is placed over hot water and steamed for some time (at least half an hour).

Using ready-made store-bought soil mixtures cannot provide a 100% guarantee that flower worms will not grow in it. With constant waterlogging, enchytraeus grows even in purchased soil.

In summer, when you move plants into the garden, use different trays to prevent the pots from touching the ground. In addition, you need to ensure that water does not stagnate in the trays after watering. In the fall, before bringing plants into the room, quarantine them.

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