Is it possible to replant trees in September? Replanting perennial flowers in garden beds. When to replant apple trees

Situations when a transplant is required fruit trees, are not that rare. The construction of additional buildings, redevelopment of the vegetable garden, even basic thinning of widely overgrown plantings is far from full list reasons prompting the gardener to take on this difficult task.

Transplant age

Any, even the most careful tree transplantation is a very risky operation. And the older the plant being moved, the greater the risk of losing it.

Up to what age can fruit trees be replanted? How often can this be done?

Some manuals state that only up to 15 years, in others - up to 25. The authors of others are even more categorical: only young seedlings are allowed to be moved.

In fact, a lot depends on the varietal characteristics and species. Crops that begin to bear fruit at a young age tend to be less durable. For them, 15 years is really the limit. And if an apple tree is capable of not only living, but also bearing fruit for up to 40 years or more, 15 years is a very young age for it. It makes sense to move such a tree to a new place after this period.

As for the frequency of replanting the same plant, there is no doubt - the less frequently, the better. Each movement seriously weakens the tree and can even lead to its death. It is permissible to re-excavate specimens that have already been placed in permanent places only in cases of extreme necessity and not earlier than two years later.

When to replant

The best time to transplant all plants is considered to be spring - the period before the buds swell, or autumn - after the leaves fall. Fruit trees are no exception. But in in case of emergency you can move them at any time of the year - if the tree had to be dug up, you should not delay the process by waiting for favorable conditions.

According to experts, autumn replanting has some advantages: before the onset of spring, the root system has time to adapt sufficiently. It is performed from the second ten days of October until the last quarter of November. But if the autumn is warm and humid, then you should not rush into this, otherwise the fabrics will not be able to properly prepare for the winter.

Winter transplantation deserves special attention, which is recommended to be done during the February thaw. It is possible when frost does not exceed 15 °C. If the temperature drops below, the roots of trees may freeze, and working with frozen soil is much more difficult.

Transplant methods

You can move an already fruit-bearing tree to another place in three not very different ways:

– without a clod of earth – with bare roots;
– with a lump of earth;
– with lengthy preliminary preparation.

Transplanting a fruit tree with bare roots will require much less time and labor for the operation itself than any other methods. But the probability of a favorable outcome in this case is much lower. Therefore, when choosing this option, it is necessary to direct all efforts to preserve as many roots as possible.

Immediately before transplanting, a circular trench is cut around the trunk at a distance of approximately 40 cm. Its depth can be arbitrary, but usually no more than a spade bayonet. The soil inside the circle is carefully selected, exposing the roots. It is especially important to immediately determine which of them are holding the tree in order to immediately cut at the groove border, clearing the cuts with a knife. Then a shovel or poles are placed under the freed roots, the tree is lifted and removed to the surface.

The planting hole for such a plant needs to be made somewhat wider than the one from which it is removed. Fill it with pre-prepared soil mixture enriched with humus. It is very important that the roots do not bend or break. All voids between the roots are carefully filled. The root collar is placed 7 cm above ground level.

After backfilling, the soil around the trunk is compacted with feet and moistened abundantly. It is very useful to add heteroauxin or some other preparation to the water intended for irrigation to accelerate root formation.

Typically, the bare-root method is used in spring or autumn for young seedlings and trees no older than four years. For older adults, replanting together with an earthen ball is recommended. Its size depends on the age of the plant:

– 5 – 7 years – coma width from 50 to 80 cm;
– 7 – 10 years – coma width is at least 125 cm;
– over 12 years – width from 1.5 m with a height of at least 60 cm.

Please note that moving large instances will require the use of additional equipment: boards, winches and even truck cranes.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

– moistening the soil and digging a trench;
– tree extraction;
- placement in a new pit.

Before starting the operation, the soil around the trunk must be watered abundantly - this way the earthen lump will crumble less. You will need at least four buckets of water. Then a circular groove is dug around the perimeter, corresponding in width to the age of the tree. Its depth should be 30–70 cm, depending on how far the plant’s roots lie. The shoots protruding beyond the intended diameter are cut off with a shovel or an ax.

A lump of earth dug in on all sides is removed from the hole by placing boards, poles, shovels or other available equipment under it. Carefully supporting it from below, the earthen lump is placed on a sheet of roofing felt or thick plastic film. If landing pit is not yet ready in a new place, it is better to wrap it in the same film.

A new hole is dug of such a size that the roots enclosed in an earthen coma fit into it with a small margin. The tree should sink to the same depth at which it grew before. It is also advisable to maintain the orientation of the crown to the cardinal points.

The free space around the lump is filled with humus or just garden soil and lightly compacted. After watering, this soil may settle - you will have to add it and compact it again.

Fruit trees that are more than 10 years old can only be replanted with preliminary preparation. They start it almost a year in advance, turning Special attention on root system.

First of all, the tree is heavily thinned out, then dug around the perimeter. At a distance of about three quarters of a meter from the trunk, a trench is made, three shovel bayonets deep and one wide. The roots that are exposed are carefully cut off or sawed through on both sides of the groove. The sections are immediately treated with garden varnish, and the cut pieces are removed.

The groove is filled with nutritious soil, to which peat and humus are added, and watered. Within a year, by the time of transplantation, with proper care, all wounds on the roots have time to heal, and new thin roots appear in the loose layer.

When starting to replant, a new groove is dug around the tree, somewhat wider than the one that was there last year. All old cuts, as well as regrown roots, should be inside the earthen clod. A fruit tree prepared in this way tolerates replanting more easily, and the likelihood of a favorable outcome increases significantly.

Transplanting trees in autumn- the step is quite responsible. It requires site owners to have knowledge of production and timing of work.

Time to transplant trees in autumn

Agrotechnical practice shows that autumn (especially late) is the best time to transplant all types of deciduous and coniferous trees. Natural state peace allows representatives of all species to comfortably tolerate interference in the natural process.

The optimal time for replanting trees is in the fall - from the beginning of leaf fall until the ambient temperature drops to minus fifteen degrees.

In conditions of persistent cooling (in the middle zone this is mid-October to mid-late November), all deciduous (including fruit) trees can be replanted. Naturally, best temperature air for such work - from ten to zero degrees. At sub-zero values, additional operations are needed to protect not only the root system itself from freezing, but also to maintain positive soil temperatures around the transplant pit and backfill soil.

For conifers, the best time to transplant is - early autumn and early spring.

Plants from other nurseries, taken in advance, should be temporarily buried until the required temperature minimum occurs, if they have an open root system. Seedlings with a closed root system will easily stand until the right time.

Effect of age on survival rate

How older plant, the more difficult it will be for him to adapt to new conditions. A huge mass of roots will be lost during digging, no matter how carefully the work is done. In the spring, when the tree begins to grow leaf mass, the root system that has not yet been restored will not be able to meet the need for life-giving moisture, which will manifest itself in depression and, as a consequence, in subsequent plant diseases.

Optimal for replanting fruit trees in autumn Their age is considered to be from one to three to five years. In this case, the plant’s ability to survive and grow its root system is maximum. And the absence of an abundant crown (deciduous mass) allows plants to painlessly both grow additional roots and use a minimum of them for sap flow.

If it is necessary to move mature plants (more than five years old) with a well-formed crown to a new location, it is necessary to prepare in advance for this process, since it will require quite a lot of effort and may require additional equipment.

Transplanting garden trees in the fall: step one - choosing a new location

There are several reasons for moving a plant:

The new location should solve the problem of lack of sunlight and easy influx of air masses. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes lack the courage to imagine the dimensions of an adult tree - the work of imagination with the scope seems too difficult possible consequences. But this must be done, otherwise the plant after transplantation will not be able to develop in a few years, it will begin to wither, the yield will be reduced, and it is the task of avoiding this that is at the forefront tree transplantation in autumn.

For plant development it is necessary nutrient soil, it must be prepared in advance. The estimated amount of soil mixture can be calculated by estimating the volume of the roots (root ball) minus the volume of the humus layer and turf layer of soil removed when preparing the hole. In other words, the older the plant, the more nutritious humus mixture will have to be prepared (even, perhaps, purchased in case of low-nutrient soils of the new place).

If a new location has been chosen on a previously uncultivated plot of land, the soil should be examined in advance. It is recommended to dig a small (but relatively deep) hole just to look at the composition of the soil.

This technique will help save time during the transplantation process itself and even prepare in advance (if clay soil) necessary drainage.

Step two: preparing the hole in a new place

The size of the hole depends on the spreading nature of the tree: the larger the crown, the larger the diameter of the hole being dug should be. It is better to draw a circle with a shovel on the surface of the soil, laying a line a little further than the measured diameter of the crown - this will allow you to dig a hole in advance with a slight excess.

The depth of the hole depends on the type of tree being transplanted; it is impossible to predict the depth in advance. The following recommendations are relevant here: the depth of the hole can be approximately equal to its width. If, when digging up a tree, it turns out that the length of the roots is shorter, then putting the selected soil back on the bottom is much easier than urgently removing the soil from a dug-out tree lying nearby.

The first layer of turf should be placed not next to the pit, but a little further away, so as not to cover it with the lower layers of soil.

The next fertile layer needs to be laid out in a different place - it will be needed when filling the roots, while the soil structure will be preserved.

The lower, less fertile layers are laid out separately; some of them will be needed to fill the voids.

Up to ten buckets of water should be poured into the dug hole if the tree is about five years old. This will allow you not only to wet the soil, but also to understand how well the moisture is absorbed and whether it is worth draining.

Step three: preparing the wood

Before replanting trees in autumn you need to carefully examine them and remove unnecessary branches.

You need to start with those that grow towards the trunk; they need to be cut out anyway (they thicken the crown).

Then it is imperative to remove all branches that have grown below the grafting site, if any.

Removing those branches that have grown close to each other is thinning the crown.

In this prepared form, it is better for the tree to adapt to a new place.

Step Four: Digging Up the Tree

If the tree is young (up to three years old), digging it out will not be difficult: you need to dig it at a distance of at least forty to fifty centimeters from the trunk to a depth of a spade bayonet. It is worth trying to carefully tilt it in different directions; if it can be tilted, then continue to carefully dig, removing the soil and trying not to damage the roots. As soon as the tree begins to topple under own weight, earth excavation must be stopped. Place the removed tree on a previously laid out piece of tarpaulin or thick film, being careful not to shake off the soil from the roots. Carefully wrap the root system with the same film (tarpaulin), tie it above the root collar. In this form, you can transfer it to a future landing site.

When replanting older trees in the fall, a different approach is required. It lies in preliminary preparation a deep trench at a distance of sixty cm to a meter from the tree trunk to a depth of three spade bayonets. When digging in a circle, you need to carefully monitor the lateral roots that come across; they must be carefully cut off with a knife and treated with garden varnish. Having removed all the soil from the trench and cut off the long roots, they begin to place long poles (boards) under the tree. Then they carefully lift it from the ground, lay it on its side on a prepared tarpaulin, wrap the root ball in it, bandage it and transport it to a new place (preferably not by dragging it).

In both cases, in order not to damage the root system, the soil around the tree must be shed if it has not rained for more than three days. The amount of water depends on the age of the tree and the condition of the soil (up to ten buckets).

Step five: planting in a prepared hole

Before planting, it is advisable to orient the tree to the edges of the world the way it grew previously.

After making sure that the dug hole is a little deeper and wider than the root ball, you can carefully lower the tree into the hole, covering it with the prepared soil mixture: first the lower layer mixed with humus, then the top fertile layer with humus, gradually watering the soil being added. This technique will allow you to fill earth voids immediately during transplantation fruit trees in the fall.

It is advisable to lay a pre-prepared layer of turf on top of the humus layers - this will prevent the lower layers of soil from being eroded.

Some trees need support: by driving stakes into the ground (preferably on three sides), you need to connect them through the tree with rope loops in the shape of a figure eight. It is advisable to leave the stakes until the middle of next spring.

Caring for transplanted trees

On next year after transferring to a new one permanent place Residents need to more carefully monitor the condition of the tree. Care consists of constant weeding, monitoring the entry of moths into the crown, and treatment against rot. It is advisable to remove the flower stalks of the first year after transplantation to strengthen the tree.

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When is the best time to replant trees and shrubs? Let's consider how and when you can replant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

End of summer - beginning of autumn - good time for planting and replanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and overwinter successfully, you need to follow some rules.

1. Plant plants with an open root system from the first ten days of April to the second ten days of May and from the second ten days of August to the first ten days of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
2. When planting, trim off the plants' inflorescences and some leaves, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and moisture loss.
3. It is advisable to carry out digging and planting in a new place in one day.
4. After planting or transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
5. Do not plant plants together with the container; carefully remove the container without destroying the plant.
6. Do not deepen the root collar of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to replant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and replanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a lump of earth approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, and also using special equipment. This technology is called “large planting”.

• Conducted in late autumn, winter and early spring, with the exception of summer.

When landing and transferring fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of ​​the root system so that the small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit trees, be sure to trim the above-ground parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to bury the root collar to avoid the formation of large quantity overgrown.

When is the best time to replant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the above-ground and underground parts. After this, the plants require regular but moderate watering. It is advisable to spray 2-3 Epin or Zircon on the leaves at intervals of 7-10 days to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting, all crops undergo a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to replant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. With open root system conifers They are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, plants are watered at the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

The best time to transplant trees is late autumn and early spring. At the same time, autumn transplants are better than spring ones, since the seedling gets the opportunity to grow roots all winter. And prepare well for the spring growing season. However, autumn plantings are not always possible.

When is it possible and when not to plant trees in the fall? And what conditions must be created for the seedling to achieve 100% survival?

There are very specific conditions under which a transplanted tree has the opportunity to completely restore the root system and begin the growing season in a timely manner.

This - optimal humidity and soil temperature, taking into account the age of the tree, with a minimum time between digging and planting, and necessarily during the period of biological dormancy of the tree, winter sleep.

Wet soil

Speaking scientific language, the soil moisture around the roots of the seedling should be 70-80%. This means that 70-80% of the air pores will be occupied by water. Soil moisture can be assessed special device– humidity meter. Or if there is no device, then using the old-fashioned method.

To do this, you need to take a lump of earth in your palm, lightly squeeze it and release it. If after this the lump easily crumbles, then the humidity is insufficient and ranges from 20% to 50%. If the lump does not crumble even when tossed, the humidity reaches 70-80%. At 100% humidity, wet soil sticks to your fingers in small lumps.

On a note: high humidity soil around the roots is necessary in the first months after transplantation. After that, you can reduce it to the usual levels, namely 10-20% for sandy loam and 25-40% for loam.

Soil temperature

Tree root growth occurs at soil temperatures from +4°C to +30°C. At these temperatures, new root hairs grow, roots branch, and juices are absorbed from the soil. In this case, the best and fastest root growth occurs in the range from +10 to +20°C.

Biological dormancy of a seedling

The biological dormancy of a tree begins with the fall of leaves and lasts until the buds swell. At this time, there is no sap flow in the seedlings, no evaporation. Therefore, their wood does not lose moisture during transportation and does not lose its reserves. nutrients.

Sap flow also explains why a seedling dug up with leaves quickly dries out - it loses moisture through evaporation. Its supply of nutrients is also depleted.

Note: the falling of leaves not only creates “rest” for the tree, but also indicates maximum ripening of the shoots.

As long as there are leaves on the branches, the movement of juices and vegetation continues, the shoots “ripen”. That is why seedlings dug up before leaf fall have many “immature” shoots that are sure to freeze in winter.

Time between digging and planting

Minimum replanting time increases the tree’s chances of quickly and painlessly settling down in a new location. This is due to the peculiarities of sap flow. The liquid inside the tree trunk moves from the bottom up - from the ground (where the salt concentration is lower) into the tree (where the salt concentration is higher).

During transportation, long-term storage, wood cells lose moisture and salts. The movement of juices in such seedlings does not occur even when planted in very wet soil. The seedling dries up.

Tree age

The age indicator affects the speed and ease of survival of a seedling and an adult tree. When replanting, some of the roots are lost. A young tree restores its root system faster than an old one. Therefore, transplanting young seedlings up to 3 years old is preferable to older trees.

Note: this does not mean that mature trees cannot be transplanted to a new location.

This means that for their successful establishment you will need to work hard, dig up a tree with big lump, transport it by transport, and then spend more time on watering and subsequent care of the transplanted tree.

Transplantation in the fall: for!

Now let’s analyze what conditions are created during autumn and spring planting. And when is it better to replant trees - in spring or autumn?

Soil moisture in autumn

Soil moisture in the fall is maintained on its own. After autumn replanting, the soil is optimally moist for the next 3-4 months without additional watering. The exception is southern regions, in which autumn may be dry. In other regions, after the autumn rains, best conditions for transplantation.

With the onset of winter, the need for watering disappears on its own. During frosty periods upper layer the soil freezes to 5-10 cm, and the humidity of the lower layers is maintained at an optimal level until spring.

As for spring plantings, they require constant watering. At the same time, with the onset of summer heat, the soil periodically dries out, and this slows down the growth of new root hairs. In addition, the growing season that has begun requires active work roots and absorption of water, followed by its evaporation from the surface of the leaves.

The roots of a recently transplanted tree are unable to support the seedling required quantity moisture. The transplanted tree develops very slowly and partially dries out.

Autumn soil temperature

When planting seedlings in autumn, the soil retains the heat accumulated over the summer. When it’s already +5 outside, the soil temperature at the depth of the roots stays around +10°C. At the same time, there is an additional bonus - the growing season has already stopped, there is no sap flow, the roots “work” without load.

Thus, they are created ideal conditions to restore the root system. Cool above, quite warm below near the roots. And it’s also humid, we talked about this in the previous section.

In winter, only the top layers of soil freeze. At correct transplantation seedlings to a sufficient depth, when their root system is in the frost-free zone, slow root growth can last all winter.

The exception here will be the northern regions, where the soil freezes quite deeply. In such areas, young seedlings may freeze completely after autumn planting. And only those trees whose root system extends deep and reaches the frost line will survive the winter.

Note: the winter growth of roots under the snow explains why seedlings planted in the fall are already able to produce leaves, bloom and bear fruit by spring.

For them winter period became a time of growth and preparation for spring. Therefore, replanting fruit trees in the fall creates conditions for them to bear fruit the following season. Spring seedlings will need to build up their root system during the summer.

As for planting in spring, the soil warms up slower than the air after winter. The root system grows worse.

Autumn planting dates

When can you replant trees in the fall? Planting times depend on the region. Moreover, even in the same region, the dates may shift, depending on autumn temperatures and the variety/type of tree/shrub. Planting begins at the end of leaf fall, when the trees have completely shed their leaves. The end of planting occurs at the first frost, when the soil begins to freeze.

Note: in the southern regions, tree planting is possible as long as the soil is not frozen. That is, not only in autumn, but also at the beginning of winter, in December.

When autumn planting is not suitable

Autumn tree planting is not suitable for two regions:

• Territories with very cold winters, in which the ground freezes to a depth of 50-60 cm or more. In this winter young tree may freeze out. Only those trees survive whose root system is located below the frost line. In cold climates, trees are replanted in the spring, after the soil has thawed. So that the seedling has time to grow its root system and prepare for the harsh winter.
• The extreme southern regions with a dry, non-rainy autumn. Here the soil has low humidity, conditions for survival are average. Best landings in such areas - at the beginning of winter.

Replanting large trees

Replanting large trees is only possible together with a large lump of earth. Bare root replanting is not suitable here. Without a coma mature tree will die after transplantation.

Replanting with soil or replanting with a clod is a labor-intensive, but guaranteed method. It is important to understand that the main nutrition of the tree is provided by thin absorbent roots. They are the ones that end up being torn off when the roots are cleared from the soil.

To successfully transplant a large tree, you need to dig up its roots with a large lump of earth. The size of the coma depends on the age of the tree and its size. Yes, 5 summer tree with a trunk diameter of 15-20 cm, it is necessary to dig with a lump 70-80 cm deep and up to 1.5 m in diameter.

Note: to make digging out the coma easier large size It is worth watering the soil well.

To preserve moisture, after digging, the lump of earth is wrapped in plastic cloth. From the outside, the fabric is tightly wrapped and fixed to prevent the soil from falling off and the thin roots from breaking.

After planting, the surface of the earth above the roots is mulched to 15-20 cm, for better preservation moisture.

So, replanting in the fall...

The best time to transplant trees is the second half of autumn. At this time, the tree must finish its growing season, form young mature shoots, accumulate a supply of nutrients and shed its leaves. Their absence will reduce the load on the roots. And it will create conditions for restoration and growth in moist, warm autumn soil.

An exception to the rule of autumn replanting will be northern regions with long cold winters and deep freezing of the soil. And also the extreme southern regions, provided there is no autumn rain.