On what day does onion sprout? Why do onions sprout when stored in different places? Summer care

Hello, friends! Landing onions It’s a serious matter, because it doesn’t always work out for everyone. Many people advise planting onion sets when it becomes very warm, they say from early landing he can go into the arrow. But in fact, it shoots if the temperature is very low or zero, that is, there is a large difference between day and night temperatures. There are others, no less important, mainly They are main reasons shooting onions - sets.

Firstly: due to improper storage of the sevka, it cannot be stored at low positive temperatures, that is, above +3º, but below +18º. It should be stored in a dry place at a temperature from 0 to +2 degrees, but not higher. Humidity 70 - 75% and always in a ventilated place. If you store it in cardboard box, then know that this is not the best option, since the cardboard becomes wet during storage and this moisture will transfer to the stored onions. You can also store it in a dry and hot place. Previously, it was stored on a Russian stove on a shelf.

Secondly: very large set, more than 2 cm in diameter. If it is smaller than this size, then, as a rule, it does not shoot.

About the size of the sets

8 - 14 mm, these are small bulbs, they do not bolt almost at all, but in poor soil they will grow into small turnips, or they may lag behind larger seeds in development.
14 - 21 mm is best size sets for planting on turnips.
21 - 24 mm is a large fraction; if such a seed was stored incorrectly, then many varieties can bolt. However, if the storage conditions are met and it is properly processed before planting, then this is a good option: it ripens early and produces almost 100% of the harvest.
24 - 30 mm - this type of seeding is best used for producing greens, since there is a large percentage of arrows.

How to choose sets

It must be without stains dry, dense, without damage, mold. If the onion is damp, be sure to dry it.

About timing and boarding

The soil

Good predecessors for onions will be cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, in general, all those crops for which a lot of fertilizers have been applied. If you were unable to allocate such a place for onions, then in the fall add 1 square meter. meter about a bucket of cow humus, a teaspoon of nitrophoska, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, a handful of wood ash. By the way, onions love ash very much.

In our area, all this has to be done in the spring, because if I do it in the fall, then with hollow spring waters everything will be washed away.

But if you are luckier, then it is better to prepare the bed in the fall and dig it up again in the spring.

Onions need loose, fertile soil, clay soil not for him. If this is exactly what you have, then try to add humus, peat, sand under the onion (coarse sand is needed, fine construction sand will not work, it cakes) - in general, make it moisture-permeable, breathable, and light.

In the second feeding In addition to mullein, superphosphate and ash, you need to add 5 g of potassium sulfate, which is responsible for the good ripening of the bulbs and the accumulation of sugar in them.

Third feeding- at the end of June exactly the same as the second.

Do not use potassium chloride, and stop all fertilizing a month before harvesting. In other words, let the onions already ripen in July.

After watering, fertilizing and rains, loosening is mandatory. A month before harvesting, I stop watering and fertilizing.

On heavy soils, you need to do unhilling or raking, that is, rake away the soil from the bulbs so that only the roots remain in it (in the ground). This must be done carefully so as not to damage the plant. This procedure will help the onions to form and ripen faster. Since our soils are heavy, I also use raking and do this in the first half of June. By the way, this operation can be carried out on any soil, then the onion fly larvae are not easily hatched, and the bulbs themselves calmly grow in breadth.

If the weather is rainy and the onion does not ripen, help it by simply damaging the root system by digging up the plant. 2-4 days after this, you can remove the onions, if the weather permits.

Don’t be late with harvesting; 10-15 days after the feathers are laid down, new roots may begin to grow and the plant will resume growth. Then it will be very difficult to preserve the onion. Onions begin to be harvested after lodging of the leaves of 50% of the plants. It is advisable to carry out the cleaning before the August rainy season; it is best to do this in early August, in the very first days, especially if the weather is good.

After harvesting, the onion needs to be dried well, and only then the leaves are trimmed, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. It needs to be laid well dried, then it can be stored for a very long time in a dry and well-lit place.

So, let's summarize: to get an onion harvest, you need to select the correct size of the set for planting, dry it, warm it up and subject it to another necessary processing, properly prepare the soil, plant in right time, fertilize until the end of June, at the beginning of June carry out unhilling, weeding, watering, loosening, and clean up in time.

All the best and see you later, friends!

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2. If there is a lack of moisture, water the onion until the onion begins to form (when its diameter becomes 2 times the diameter of the false stem).

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Onions from seeds: how to grow them, preparing seeds and planting them

Onions are considered very useful plant which is grown on summer cottages. It contains special substances that kill pathogenic bacteria. Thanks to them, onions have a pungent taste and a specific smell. Onions are used in the preparation of a variety of dishes; they have a special taste and improve digestion.

Growing onions from seeds

Onions are the most popular variety in our country. It is grown almost everywhere. It takes a lot of effort to grow large, healthy bulbs. Growing onions from seeds in one season is considered very popular.

Onions are grown from seeds in the following ways:

Sowing in the ground in early spring.
Growing seedlings.
Pre-winter sowing.

The first method is to sow onion seeds directly into the soil as soon as it thaws. The bulbs thus grow in one season.

Growing seedlings occurs at home. Seeds begin to germinate in February and are planted in the ground in April.

Way winter sowing Apply in the fall, planting seeds in slightly frozen soil. But you need to be careful, because due to earlier sowing, onions may germinate in the fall and freeze.

Whatever method is chosen, the soil must be prepared in advance. The ground should be dug up in the fall, with peat or compost added to it.

Advantages of onion seeds over sets

There are many reasons why it is better to use onion seeds for sowing than onion sets.

If as planting material If you use onion sets, you can introduce harmful insects or diseases into the beds. If you use a manganese solution as an antiseptic, even it may not help eliminate diseases or pests inside the seeds. Seeds used for sowing are much easier to treat.
If you use seeds for sowing, then marketable onions can grow within a season even without seedlings. Under certain growing conditions and fertilizers used, high-quality bulbs are obtained, even with late sowing directly into the soil.
Growing seedlings helps to avoid poor harvests due to poor quality material. If you use onions, there is a high probability of getting plantings with numerous voids.
When using seeds to grow, you can choose the best quality ones and plant them in such a way that they do not compete with each other for nutrients.

The method of cultivation and planting time directly depend on the chosen variety. Today there are 60 varieties of onions, which are divided into the following types:

varieties of southern origin;
varieties of northern origin.

For northern varieties to form a full-fledged bulb, the day length needs to last 17 hours, while southern varieties require 14 hours. Northern varieties of onions have a sharper taste and are better stored. Southern varieties taste better, but have a shorter shelf life.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

Before planting seeds, they are checked for germination. This is done a month before planting. To do this, take 15–20 seeds from a batch, wrap them in a damp cloth and keep them for two weeks. After this, the result is evaluated.

If the seeds are of high quality, their pre-sowing preparation begins. To avoid fungal diseases, they are wrapped in cloth and dipped in hot water for 15 minutes, and then cold for one minute. Then the seeds are kept at room temperature during the day, without unrolling it from the fabric, which is periodically moistened.

There is another way pre-sowing preparation seeds Oxygen must be supplied to any container with water under pressure and the seeds are soaked in it for 18 hours, then they are dried and sown in the soil. Onions are generally sown at the end of April.

Preparing beds for sowing

Onion beds are made in sunny places. It’s good if cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers, legumes or tomatoes grew in this place before, which remarkably supply the soil with nitrogen. Loamy soil with the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers is also perfect.

The width of the beds should be 80 centimeters and the height – 15 centimeters. When digging, add compost or peat 3 kilograms for each square meter area. In addition, nitrophoska with superphosphate is added, one tablespoon per square meter. The compost along with the fertilizer is thoroughly mixed with the soil and compacted a little. Prepare the beds, and then use a solution of copper sulfate for watering. The solution is consumed 2 liters for each square meter of bed. The beds are covered with plastic film for 2–3 days.

Sowing seeds

For sowing, markings are made on the garden bed. It is necessary to step back 10 centimeters from the edge of the bed and make three furrows. They should be 5 centimeters apart from each other. The depth of the furrows should not be more than 2 centimeters. Three more furrows are drawn 15 centimeters from them, and so on.

Seeds begin to be planted in these furrows at a distance of 1–1.5 centimeters from each other. After the seeds are planted, the soil is lightly compacted and watered, using 2-3 liters of water per meter of bed.

In order for the seeds to germinate and grow faster, the beds are covered with plastic film. It retains water in the soil and creates an ideal microclimate for germination.

When the onion begins to sprout, cotyledons appear in the form of small loops. If suddenly roots appear instead, they must be removed, because such a plant will die in any case. As soon as the seeds germinate, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 1.5–2 centimeters between them. After 12 days, the cotyledons straighten and the first leaf appears.

Crop care

Caring for crops includes regular watering, weed control, diseases and pests.

From May to June, watering is carried out once a week. Due to dry weather, the beds need to be watered twice a week. Water is consumed in a volume of 5–10 liters for every meter of bed. In July, watering must be stopped due to the ripening of the bulbs. Water can interfere with this.

If the drought continues all this time, you can water once a week in small portions, otherwise the bulbs may wilt. Water the beds carefully so as not to break the onion feathers.

They begin to weed the beds as soon as small weeds appear, because when weeding adult weeds, the roots of the bulbs are easily damaged. To make it easier to remove weeds, the beds must be watered in advance. Weeding helps to partially loosen the soil. Separate loosening is not recommended.

If the onion sprouts slowly, you can feed the soil with urea. To do this, dissolve a spoonful of urea in a bucket of water and water the beds, spending 3–4 liters per meter.

Onion harvest

You can tell by the yellow and withered feathers that the onion is ripe. Harvesting usually occurs in late July - early August. If the feathers have not turned yellow, the onions are collected from the garden and laid out in the sun. thin layer to ripen.

As soon as it is completely dry, the feathers are removed, and the bulbs themselves are thoroughly dried using any heating devices. This method should protect onions from rot and powdery mildew.

Once the onions are dry, they need to be sorted. Small bulbs are used for winter sowing. The rest of the onions are stored in boxes or canvas bags of 10–15 kilograms, placing them in a dark place with a temperature of about +18 degrees. Due to more high temperature bulbs can sprout. Onions need to be constantly checked for rot and dry bulbs. They must be removed immediately.

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Onion sets in spring

Don't rush! As a rule, the mass departure of summer residents begins with the May Day holidays. Having arrived at their plot, many gardeners first rush to plant potatoes and onion sets. My opinion: there is no need to rush, because the earth has not yet recovered from winter. Having planted onion sets on a quick fix, then we wonder for a long time why it doesn’t rise well and the arrows are thin. To prevent this from happening, I do the following.

At the beginning of the third ten days of April, I take a herring jar and pour sawdust from trees into it hardwood.

I boil a kettle of water and add sawdust.
After 30-40 minutes. I drain the water, boil the water again and pour it into the sawdust again.
I drain the water again, and after cooling to room temperature, I plant the seedlings in sawdust - tightly, one onion to another.

After this, I place the jar in a plastic bag, the ends of which I tuck under the jar, and place it on the kitchen shelf. What does this give?

After a week, the bulbs produce a thick bristle of fresh roots up to 1-2 cm in height. During the May holidays, I plant these sprouted bulbs in the beds, after which they grow rapidly. Don’t forget to add a spoonful of wood ash to the holes, mixing it with soil, humus or rotted compost.

At the end of May - beginning of June your onion bed will delight you with strong shoots. Try it, I think it’s worth the candle.

Four years to fight

Arriving at the dacha in the spring after the snow has melted, many find plowed lawns and a vegetable garden. Over the winter, moles, mice and shrews completed the work they were not ordered to do. Within four years I managed to get rid of this scourge. What am I doing? I buy frozen or chilled fish with heads. After cleaning, I don’t throw away the head and giblets, but put it in a plastic bag, tie it, then put it in another bag, and leave it in the sun for two or three days.

Then, using a shovel, I carefully remove the pile of earth that the mole has turned upside down, using my fingers left and right to clean the mole passages. I put the head of the fish with giblets in the hole and cover it tightly with ceramic tiles or bricks. Moles and mice cannot stand the disgusting smell of decaying fish and leave the garden.

I buy a bottle of kerosene or acetone at a hardware store, soak a rag in it and put it in the holes along with the rotten fish. I also cover the top with brick or tile.

And a few years ago, over the winter I lost 70% of my tulip, daffodil and crocus bulbs. I had to look for a way out for the future. It turned out that rodents cannot stand the smell of black elderberry. I broke elderberry branches 10-15 cm long, split them lengthwise with a knife and inserted (buried) obliquely into the flower beds in which we planted flower bulbs before winter. In the spring I removed the elderberry branches.

Between daffodils and tulips I plant tubers of the imperial hazel grouse, it also has a repellent aroma.

In the photo there are two imperial hazel grouse: on the left is a tall orange one, on the right is a yellow one among the tulips.

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Growing onions from sets

As a crop, onions were known and used as food and medicine by the Sumerians. In Rus', onion culture appeared around the 12th century. Today it is cultivated throughout to the globe. The culture gained such popularity for its medicinal and nutritional qualities. Onions and green onions contain phytoncides - compounds with strong bactericidal properties, vitamins "A", "B", "B1", B2", "C", "PP", mineral salts and other substances, necessary for a person. It is eaten fresh in salads, as well as in the preparation of hot dishes and in the canning industry.

Bulb onions. © Dixondale Farms

Biological features of onions

Onion is a one-, two-, and three-year-old plant. In the first year, from the seeds (nigella) of onions, onion sets or arbage are obtained - small onions 1-2 cm in diameter with a weight of 2-5 grams. In the 2nd year, a large onion (uterus) is obtained from the set. Mother bulbs are a commercial onion. In the third year, when the queen is planted, onion seeds are obtained, which are called nigella for their color. In the southern regions, onion seeds can also be obtained by growing them for two years: in the first year, a large onion-uterus is obtained, and in the second year, a testicle is formed on a high straight peduncle in the form of capitate round inflorescences.

Variety of onions

Onions, in relation to the length of the photoperiod, are divided into 2 large groups:

a group of varieties of the northern direction. They develop normally and form vegetative (bulbs) and generative (nigella seeds) crops only when the daylight hours are 15-18 hours per day. Northern varieties in short daylight conditions manage to grow only green feather, but no bulbs are formed at all.
Varieties from the southern regions form a normal harvest with short daylight hours - 12 hours a day. When the photoperiod lengthens in southern varieties, the bulbs do not ripen and are poorly stored.
Today, breeders have developed varieties that do not react so painfully to the length of daylight hours and grow and develop normally in the north and south, under other optimal conditions.

Based on taste, onions are divided into 3 groups:

spicy,
semi-sharp,
sweet or salad

The specific pungency or bitterness of onions is given by essential oils, or rather the ratio between sugars and essential oils. The less sugar, the less essential oils, which means less pungency of the onion bulb and leaves (feather). Today, breeders offer varieties without bitterness, the so-called sweet salad varieties.

Onions from sets to large onions. © Susy Morris

General approaches to agricultural technology for growing onions

Predecessors and compatibility

The onion has a fibrous root system, which cannot form without additional power high yields. Therefore, onions are placed after crops that received autumn processing soil manure (early cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, early and mid-sized potatoes, zucchini, melons, legumes). At the bows good compatibility with all types of cabbages, carrots, beets, radishes, greens, which allows you to combine these crops in compacted crops.

Soil requirements

Onions develop normally neutral soils at pH=6.4-6.7. If the soils are acidified by long-term application of mineral fertilizers, then 2-3 years before sowing onions, the soil under the previous crops is deoxidized by applying slaked lime, dolomite flour 200 g/m². Onions cannot tolerate liming the soil before sowing and planting. You can use wood ash 300-400 g per 1 m² of area.

Onions do not like fresh organic matter, but on depleted soils in the fall or spring, you can add mature humus to it at 1.5-2.0 kg/m² of area. In the fall, part of the phosphate and potassium fertilizers are also added to the digging. The second half with the addition of nitrogen fertilizers is used in the spring before sowing and planting the crop. On rich chernozems, they limit themselves to adding decomposed organic matter for digging. On peaty soils, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and the dose of phosphorus is increased by 30-40%.

Environment Requirement

Onions are cold-resistant crops. Therefore, sowing and planting are carried out in the early spring terms when the soil temperature in a 10 cm layer rises to +10..+12°C, and the air does not fall below +3..+5°C. Onion seedlings are not afraid of short-term return spring frosts. Cold temperatures down to -3°C do not harm seedlings, but adult plants low temperatures(-3..-5°C) stop growth and development, seed ripening.

Onions need a sufficient amount of moisture, especially during the formation of seeds and mother bulbs. With a lack of moisture, seeds turn out to be puny with low germination, and the bulbs are small and lack juiciness.

Onions are grown in several ways: seeds, sets (arbage), selection, seedlings.

Planting onion sets

Specifics of growing onion from sets

The most common method of obtaining large marketable bulbs in all regions is growing from sets.

Preparing the soil for sowing

In garden crop rotation, onions are returned to old place in 3-5 years. In the autumn, after harvesting the predecessor, the soil is freed from weeds and watered, provoking the emergence of weeds. Then they dig deep (25-30 cm). Before digging on depleted soils, add mature humus or compost (0.5 buckets) per 1 m², and mineral fertilizer– 25-30 g of urea and granulated superphosphate, 15-25 g of chlorine-free potassium fertilizers. In the spring, before planting the sets, 10-15 g of nitroammophoska are added for loosening.

Onions love to show themselves in all their glory, so on loamy soils they are planted on ridges on which the onion from the turnip growth phase is opened by 1/3 (the shoulders are released). This technique helps the large onion to form and ripen in time. The top, hidden under heavy soil, accumulates water (especially in rainy weather) and is affected by a fungal infection. On light, permeable soils, using the same technique, plant the arbage on a flat surface. The mulched surface prevents rapid evaporation of moisture, and open hangers receive the required share sun rays.

Preparing the sets

In the fall, after harvesting and drying, harvested divided into 2 fractions. Planting material with a diameter of 1.5-3.0 cm (sets) and smaller than 1 cm (wisps) is selected. Oats are usually sown in warm regions before winter in open ground, and in the cold northern climates in a greenhouse.

In the spring, 2 weeks before planting, the sets are sorted into fractions and bulbs of the same size are planted separately, which makes it possible to obtain bulbs that are uniform in size. The selected material is freed from shrunken and diseased bulbs, dry scales and other small debris. Arbaja with a diameter of more than 3 cm (sampling) is planted separately. Large bulbs bolt early and do not form a normal bulb. Therefore, they are usually used to obtain green feathers.

The material selected for planting is heated for 6-7 hours at a temperature of +40..+45°C. Before planting, planting material is disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 hours). IN Lately solutions of biofungicides (planriz, gamair, phytosporin) are more often used. The sets are soaked for 1-2 hours before planting permanently.

Onion sets

Planting sets

Arbages are planted for their own use usually in a single-line manner, leaving row spacings of 40 cm and 4-6 cm in rows. You can use multi-line tape sowing with row spacings of 20 cm for planting. In this case, the middle row of 3 rows of tape is used on a feather. The freed up area will allow the formation of a larger bulb. The planting depth is regulated by the size of the arbage. It is planted so that the “tail” is not covered with soil. In dry weather, pre-emergence watering is carried out or the furrows are watered with a stream from a watering can before planting.

Shoots appear on days 9-12. It is very important not to neglect the crops and get rid of weeds and soil crust in a timely manner. Loosening is superficial so as not to damage the delicate root system of the seedlings, located in the upper 10-30 cm layer. You can't hill onions!

Feeding

The first feeding is carried out during the leaf growth phase, after 2-3 weeks, especially if the onion develops a thin light feather. Usually, urea is used at the rate of 20-25 g per 10 liters of water and the solution is applied under the root for 10-12 linear meters. During this period, good results are ensured by fertilizing with nitrophoska, nitroammophoska, 25-30 g/m² of area for irrigation or a solution like urea. When fertilizing with solutions, be sure to wash the plants. clean water from a watering can with a fine-mesh nozzle.

The second feeding is carried out with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the second decade of June or 3 weeks after the first. Prepare a solution of 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-13 g of potassium salt. You can use nitroammophoska - 40 g/10 l of water (2 tablespoons without top).

On depleted soils, a third fertilizing can be carried out (look at the condition of the plants), but nitrogen fertilizers must be removed from the composition. You can use a phosphorus-potassium composition in the dose used for the second feeding.

It should be noted that soil that is well amended before planting eliminates the need for fertilizing. Removing weeds, loosening and watering are sufficient to obtain an average harvest of environmentally friendly vegetable products.

Onion sets. © Karen Jackson

Watering

For normal growth and development, onions use little water, but require constant wet soil in the first month after germination and during the period of bulb growth. At first, watering is carried out once every 2 weeks, and if the weather is dry and hot - once a week, followed by mandatory loosening of the soil (destruction of pests and their larvae), mulching. The soil is soaked in the first month to a 10 cm layer, increasing it to 20-25 cm towards the growth phase of the bulbs. In the last month, watering is stopped and they switch to “dry watering”, that is, loosening the soil, destroying the drying crust, freeing the upper part of the bulbs from land.

Protection from diseases and pests

Of the diseases, onions are most often damaged by fungal diseases (downy mildew, root rot) and numerous pests ( onion fly, moth, thrips, nematode, hoverfly, secretive proboscis) associated with violation of recommended agricultural cultivation techniques. At the first visible changes in the color of the leaves, the appearance of light spots, dashes, wilting of the feather, its curling, it is necessary to spray the leaves with a tank mixture of biofungicides and bioinsecticides, according to the recommendations. They are harmless to humans and animals. Chemicals It is not recommended to carry out protection on onions, and when cultivating green feathers, it is prohibited.

Harvest

The onset of the ripening and harvesting phase is determined by the condition of the leaves. Their lodging and yellowing indicate the maturation of the bulbs. In dry and sunny weather, the bulbs are pulled out of the soil and left in place or transferred under a canopy and dried for 7-10 days. They sort and trim, leaving a stump of 5-6 cm. If the soil is dense, then the roots are trimmed, being careful not to damage the bulb.

Onion varieties for growing turnips in summer cottages

For northern regions:

Peninsular - Azelros, Crimson Ball;
Spicy - Bessonovsky local, Rostov local;
Salad – Lisbon white, Ailsa great, Alice, Albion F1

For southern regions:

Peninsular – Iris;
Spicy – Sunny;
Salads – Dnestrovsky, Kaba, Yellow Kaba.

Varietal diversity onions are much richer than the examples given. But when choosing seeds or sets for growing in the country, be sure to use local, zoned varieties. Varietal confusion is unacceptable. You will not get the expected harvest, and the grown bulbs will be of poor quality and lack shelf life.

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The freshness of food in the kitchen is a paramount component in preparing tasty and high-quality food.

Many people prepare vegetables from autumn period and use them before the new season begins.

Therefore, many housewives are racking their brains over the question of what to do if they have sprouted or rotted and how to keep vegetables fresh for as long as possible.

Onions begin to germinate when the dormant stage of the plant enters the growth phase. There are several reasons why this happens:

with the onset of spring, natural processes are activated, and onions begin to sprout
the process can also be accelerated if vegetables are stored in a warm room with high humidity
The neck of the onion contains moisture, and if it is too thick, then such fruits will be prone to sprouting

The appearance of rot is due to the fact that when high humidity and temperature changes, the bulb fogs up and becomes a favorable environment for the development of bacteria.

In some cases, it is important to correctly determine the type of damage in order to eliminate all consequences as effectively as possible. In addition to general rot, you can find on the bulb:

Neck rot - it can be noticed even at the harvest stage, but most often the disease appears 1-2 months after storage. The tops become soft, turn black and become covered with mucus. Also, the presence of rot can give off a pungent odor and a cluster of fruit flies.
Bottom rot - you can notice this disease by fading foliage and white mycelium on the lower part of the fruit. Under the influence of environmental humidity, the bulb becomes soft and completely rots.

It is worth remembering that regardless of the type of rot, it spreads very quickly and if the affected fruits are not removed from the container in time, you can lose the entire harvest.

Long-lived onion varieties

When choosing onions for planting, you should pay more attention to studying the varieties, while giving preference to those that have the longest shelf life. From spicy varieties you should choose:

Arzamas
Spassky
Bessonovsky
Strigunovsky

Semi-sharp onion varieties:

Danilovsky
Golden ball
Belozersky
Mechkovsky

Sweet has high internal humidity, which makes it worse to store, so these varieties must be used up as soon as possible, otherwise they will be unsuitable for consumption.

Growing onions for storage

In order for vegetables to last as long as possible, you need to properly care for them and follow a few simple rules:

Cannot be deposited a large number of nitrogen fertilizers, because they significantly reduce the dormant period and, as a result, the onion germinates quickly.
Potassium supplements, on the contrary, make vegetables more stable and also increase their taste characteristics.
If there is heavy rainfall at the last stage of fruit ripening, it is necessary to protect the plant from excess moisture, otherwise the onion will become watery and prone to rotting.
Harvesting should be done only in warm and dry weather to avoid excessive moisture in the vegetables.

If you take care of the quality of the onions you grow in advance, then storing and preparing them will be much easier.

Preparing the harvest for storage

Why do onions sprout during storage, what to do in such a situation? First of all, you need to try to prevent all the undesirable consequences of improper storage:

In order for the onion to be ready for long-term storage, it is dried, thereby getting rid of excess moisture. There are several ways to carry out this procedure.
In sunny and warm weather, they are dried directly outside, immediately after harvesting. To do this, you need to completely remove the roots and trim the feathers to a length of 2 centimeters. But if you plan to store vegetables in braids, the green part is left untouched.
Then the collected onions are laid out in one layer on the ground and periodically turned over, while selecting damaged specimens. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to use a “hammock” made of armored mesh for drying; in this case, the fruits do not need to be turned over.
After 5-7 days, the harvest can be placed in containers and transferred to a permanent storage location.

This is interesting! Damaged bulbs can be easily restored by removing it upper layer The juicy scales are thoroughly dried; after a certain amount of time, the top layer becomes coarser and turns into husk.

If it rains constantly during harvest and it is impossible to dry the onions outside, you can prepare them for storage at home. To do this, vegetables are laid out in a dry room with a temperature of 20-25 degrees; for the fastest process, you can use a heater with our devices.

Onions can also be dried in the oven at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. To achieve the desired effect, do not close the oven lid and carefully ensure that the top skin does not dry out.

To fully prepare onions for storage, additional processing must be carried out:

To prevent germination, the bottom is treated with lime paste or lightly burned.
You can protect them from rotting by sprinkling them with crushed chalk, and take 20 grams of the active substance per kilogram of harvest.

Readiness can be checked by the quality of the husk; it should rustle and be quite hard.

Conditions that onions require for long-term storage

It is not enough to properly prepare vegetables for storage; it is necessary to provide them optimal conditions.

Paying attention to the following factors:

Onions are usually stored at room temperature from 18 to 24 degrees, but at the same time individual species require colder conditions;
Humidity should be between 50-70 percent, otherwise the vegetables will spoil. To protect the fruits from drying out, the remaining husks are poured onto them. If it is impossible to provide the required level of humidity in the room, you can place buckets or boxes filled with ash, shavings or lime, they will absorb all excess secretions.
The room must have good ventilation, this is necessary in order to avoid stagnation of moisture in the air.

It is best to store such fruits in special rooms, but if this is not possible, cabinets, mezzanines or a storage room are quite suitable. Also in some cases you can use the refrigerator or balcony.

The storage method should first of all be convenient for humans, but it is also worth adhering to some recommendations:

A weaving basket would be an excellent solution because it allows air to pass through and is made from environmentally friendly pure materials and it looks beautiful at the same time.
Wooden or plastic boxes are suitable for those who want to store large quantities of onions in small room, because they can be stacked on top of each other without loss of quality.
Quite often, cardboard boxes with holes for ventilation are used as packaging.
If vegetables are stored in the pantry, then you can use “grandmother’s method” and put them in old stockings or tights.
When using bags, their height should not exceed 30 centimeters.
The main advantage of the nets is their transparency, thanks to which you can quickly detect and remove rotten vegetables.
Braids made from onions can decorate your kitchen.

Thanks to the huge number of storage methods, everyone can choose the one that suits them.

It is worth remembering that under no circumstances should you use plastic bags and bags, they do not allow air to pass through them.

Features of storing different types of onions

All types of onions require an individual approach, and in order to preserve vegetables for as long as possible, you should follow some rules.

Green onions prefers cold temperatures, so it is usually stored in the refrigerator. To increase the shelf life of the product, you can resort to small tricks:

limp or dry feathers are removed, and the roots are moistened with water, after which they are wrapped in a damp cloth, put in a paper envelope and tied with a rope at the level where the green part begins;
Before putting the onion in the refrigerator, you can wrap it in food paper.

Leek

It is customary to store leeks in sand; to do this, pour a 10-centimeter layer of filler onto the bottom of the box and deepen the feathers into it by 4-5 centimeters
most easy way consists in placing the container with onions on the balcony and insulating it with a blanket or coat

The ideal temperature for adoption is +1-2 degrees.

Onion

Onions must be stored in a dry, well-ventilated area in a container that will provide sufficient air circulation.

Sevok

Onion sets are stored primarily for planting next season. To avoid losing the ability to form new bulbs, the sets must be stored at a temperature of at least 16 degrees.

Red onion

Sweet varieties have a reduced shelf life and usually retain their freshness for no longer than 4-5 months.

For more long-term storage It is imperative to take into account all the features of each variety.

Alternative storage methods

Onions can be stored both fresh and cooked using the following methods.

Drying

The onions are peeled, cut into thick rings and placed on a special dryer or baking sheet. Vegetables are cooked for 3-4 hours at a temperature of 60 degrees.

Twisting into jars

To pickle onions you need:

The heads are cleaned, washed thoroughly and placed in an enamel bowl.
Then prepare a 10 percent brine.
Place black peas in a container with onions and Bay leaf, after which they are filled with brine.
Then you need to install pressure, which is usually a wooden circle and any weighting material (several books, a filled jar of water, a large stone, etc.).
The onion should last at least a week in this form.
Then the products are placed in jars, hermetically sealed and stored in a cool place.

Both salted and dried, onions are very tasty and perfectly complement any cold or hot dishes.

Onions are considered a very useful plant that is grown in summer cottages. It contains special substances that kill pathogenic bacteria. Thanks to them, onions have a pungent taste and a specific smell. Onions are used in the preparation of a variety of dishes; they have a special taste and improve digestion.

Onions from seeds are grown in the following ways:

Sowing in the ground in early spring.
Growing seedlings.
Pre-winter sowing.

The first method is to sow onion seeds directly into the soil as soon as it thaws. The bulbs thus grow in one season.

Growing seedlings occurs at home. Seeds begin to germinate in February and are planted in the ground in April.

The winter sowing method is used in the fall, planting seeds in slightly frozen soil. But you need to be careful, because due to earlier sowing onions can sprout already in the fall and freeze.

Whatever method is chosen, the soil must be prepared in advance. The ground should be dug up in the fall, with peat or compost added to it.

Advantages of onion seeds over sets

There are many reasons why it is better to use onion seeds for sowing than onion sets.

If you use onion sets as planting material, you can introduce harmful insects or diseases into the beds. If you use a manganese solution as an antiseptic, even it may not help eliminate diseases or pests inside the seeds. Seeds used for sowing are much easier to treat.
If you use seeds for sowing, then marketable onions can grow within a season even without seedlings. Under certain growing conditions and fertilizers used, high-quality bulbs are obtained, even with late sowing directly into the soil.
Growing seedlings helps to avoid poor harvests due to poor quality material. If you use onions, there is a high probability of getting plantings with numerous voids.
When using seeds to grow, you can choose the best quality ones and plant them in such a way that they do not compete with each other for nutrients.

It directly depends on the variety chosen growing method and landing date. Today there are 60 varieties of onions, which are divided into the following types:

varieties of southern origin;
varieties of northern origin.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

If the seeds are of high quality, their pre-sowing preparation begins. To avoid fungal diseases, they are wrapped in cloth and immersed in hot water for 15 minutes, and then in cold water for one minute. Then the seeds are kept at room temperature for 24 hours without unrolling them from the fabric, which is periodically moistened.

There is another way of pre-sowing seed preparation. Oxygen must be supplied to any container with water under pressure and the seeds are soaked in it for 18 hours, then they are dried and sown in the soil. Onions are generally sown at the end of April.

Preparing beds for sowing

The width of the beds should be 80 centimeters and the height – 15 centimeters. While digging into the soil add compost or peat 3 kilograms per square meter of area. In addition, nitrophoska with superphosphate is added, one tablespoon per square meter. The compost along with the fertilizer is thoroughly mixed with the soil and compacted a little. Prepare the beds, and then use a solution of copper sulfate for watering. The solution is consumed 2 liters for each square meter of bed. The beds are covered with plastic film for 2–3 days.

Sowing seeds

For sowing, markings are made on the garden bed. It is necessary to step back 10 centimeters from the edge of the bed and make three furrows. They should be 5 centimeters apart from each other. The depth of the furrows should not be more than 2 centimeters. Three more furrows are drawn 15 centimeters from them, and so on.

To make the seeds germinate and grow faster, the beds are covered with plastic film. It retains water in the soil and creates an ideal microclimate for germination.

When the onions begin to sprout, cotyledons appear in the form of small loops. If suddenly roots appear instead, they must be removed, because such a plant will die in any case. As soon as the seeds germinate, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 1.5–2 centimeters between them. After 12 days, the cotyledons straighten and the first leaf appears.

Crop care

Caring for crops includes regular watering, weed control, diseases and pests.

From May to June, watering is carried out once a week. Due to dry weather, the beds need to be watered twice a week. Water is consumed in a volume of 5–10 liters for every meter of bed. In July watering must be stopped and due to the ripening of the bulbs. Water can interfere with this.

If the drought continues all this time, you can water once a week in small portions, otherwise the bulbs may wilt. Water the beds carefully so as not to break the onion feathers.

They begin to weed the beds as soon as small weeds appear, because when weeding adult weeds, the roots of the bulbs are easily damaged. To make it easier to remove weeds, the beds must be watered in advance. Weeding helps partial loosening soil. Separate loosening is not recommended.

If the onion sprouts slowly, you can feed the soil with urea. To do this, dissolve a spoonful of urea in a bucket of water and water the beds, spending 3–4 liters per meter.

As soon as it is completely dry, the feathers are removed, and the bulbs themselves dry thoroughly using any heating devices. This method should protect onions from rot and powdery mildew.

Once the onions are dry, they need to be sorted. Small bulbs are used for winter sowing. The rest of the onions are stored in boxes or canvas bags of 10–15 kilograms, placing them in a dark place with a temperature of about +18 degrees. Higher temperatures may cause the bulbs to sprout. Onions need to be constantly checked for rot and dry bulbs. They must be removed immediately.

Summer residents often encounter a situation where prepared planting onions germinate ahead of schedule. This happens due to improper storage and non-compliance temperature regime. Contrary to popular belief, this root vegetable “loves” both cold and heat equally; in the first case, there is a high probability that it will spoil, and in the second, it begins to germinate quickly. To prevent this from happening, you need to store it in a cool and dry place with good air circulation, at a temperature from 0 to +20 C. If the moment is lost, germination cannot be stopped, a logical question arises: is it possible to plant sprouted onion sets? Onions are a finicky crop, it is worth discussing this in detail, in order.

You should not store onion sets in a cardboard box, as many do, making a grave mistake - the cardboard draws in moisture and transfers it to the bulbs, thus unconsciously creating all the conditions for its germination.

The best time to plant onions

It is believed that the earlier you plant onions, the better. In reality, it is not the time that is important, but the accompanying weather conditions for planting. Regardless of the air temperature, the soil must warm up to at least +30 C; in unheated conditions and with periodic night frosts, the planted crop will certainly go to waste.

Planting sprouted onions

But you can’t wait too long - the soil must be moist and contain enough moisture, thanks to which the bulbs will form a strong and developed root system in just a few days. It should be added that a common mistake is planting onions at seed or lunar calendar, not taking into account the size of the territory of Russia and the multitude climatic zones, encircling her. Under normal weather conditions, the most favorable time in almost all regions is considered to be early to mid-May.

What to do with sprouted onions

Onions do not always germinate earlier, until it is time to plant. The culprit for this is often a delayed winter; naturally, in such a situation, it grows, regardless of storage conditions.

Note! If unfavorable weather disrupts plans, and the onion set sprouted before planting, all that remains to be done is to continue to germinate it, otherwise it will spoil, and right in the house, so that at least you can use the onion greens.

For these purposes, use a box with soil, where the seedlings are planted close to each other and watered abundantly. Original solution- a kind of bottle ridge:

V plastic bottles the earth is filled up;
make many holes in height;
bulbs are placed in them in a horizontal position.

Onion in a bottle

This method of growing has a number of advantages:

The “home flower bed” takes up little space on the windowsill, where at least a dozen bottles are placed;
Onions grown in this way are easy to conveniently water, simply pouring water into the neck of the bottle, it will evenly moisten the soil;
It is also convenient to cut greens using ordinary stationery scissors;
There will always be fresh early leeks from the sets on the table, before the peculiar planting of the virtually doomed ones;
In cold, dank weather, a bulbous “herbarium” looks lushly green on the windowsill, looking like an exotic plant.

Is it possible to plant sprouted onion sets in the ground?

Important! Many gardeners believe that sprouted onion sets are hopeless and are simply thrown away. But in fact, it can be cultivated, and to the question: what can you do with sprouted onions, there is a simple answer - plant them with the rest.

It should be noted that not all and not for its intended purpose:

If the bulb has sprouted slightly, it’s okay - it’s quite suitable for planting, like all the others. After proper preparation will not let go and may please you with the harvest;
If the sprout is already large enough, the set can be grown, but it will no longer produce a turnip - the plant will give everything to the above-ground part. It is suitable for greens, but the sprouts must be cut off before planting;
If the onion has an excessively long sprout tail, and the bulbous part is dry and wrinkled, such a specimen is truly hopeless. No measures will help, it should be thrown away.

Onions in the garden

Before planting, sprouted onions especially need processing - soaking in a special complex solution, in which they are saturated useful substances that promote healthy growth.

How to plant sprouted onions

Planting sprouted sets is no different from the rest, regardless of whether they are grown onions or for feathers:

immediately before planting, germination is carried out by soaking;
the bed must be at least 5 cm deep so that the seedlings are 3-3.5 cm underground;
the distance between each of the planted bulbs is from 10 to 12 cm;
the interval between the beds is 25-30 cm.

Note! Before planting on greenery, it is imperative to cut off the sprouted top, it will grow even more magnificently and intensively, but you cannot even partially cut the root, otherwise the plant will die, even if it is completely healthy.

What to do if onion sets become moldy

If stored in a too damp place, without access to fresh air, onions, in addition to sprouting, may become moldy. It is quite simple to determine this - the head is covered with a powdery coating, bluish in color. If you squeeze it with two fingers, it turns out to be soft and wrinkles like a punched soccer ball, often accompanied by an unpleasant, musty smell.

Important! Is it possible to plant sprouted and moldy onions? In this case, you will receive one harm. Fungal spores will quickly spread through damp soil, destroying onions and affecting neighboring crops.

Sprouted onions that are not dried out or covered with mold can bring benefits, and under favorable circumstances, even a harvest. Therefore, you should not despair, write off and throw away such an onion.