Tips for a beginning modeler - Guide: How to assemble good models. Otter fur is considered the most wear-resistant.

To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive tools - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.

Skin

For stripping assembled model You will need at least two types of skins: coarser grains for initial processing and very fine ones for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.

putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking tape

Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

Available a large number of paints for models, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil artistic paint. In the latter case finished model It is imperative to blow it out with a semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte surface, but the airplane model should have a slight shine.

Brushes

For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.

Brush "Revell", marten, No. 4/0

Brush "Revell", No. 2

Properly organized workplace- big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen table when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.

Tool location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and CP

Separated small parts It’s good to store in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.

Tweezers

In a complete model kit there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. An airbrush and a compressor will require the largest financial allocations, separated from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, but in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (the experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them at Tools Store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal alligator clips are a great help. Used by radio installers. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when modifying the model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. You can also use a drill to process the surfaces of the model using different attachments.

Wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

File

A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We are buying a model

We have acquired a tool, now we can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stick with something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War: the North America P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero or the R-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they do not contain so many details. For the most part, it's like Thunderbolt. Both the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It’s better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don’t have experience, then why ruin an expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller-driven monoplanes, you can move on to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” on a scale of 1:48 and higher (if you have the desire and have a separate apartment for ready-made models).

Examination

Once you receive the model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all the parts stated in the instructions are present, decals and especially the cockpit canopy. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find complete compliance with the kit, thank the seller and run home to assemble the model. Take it at home necessary tools and place them neatly on your desktop. You can move on to the next stage.

Studying the instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions on the way. This is by no means forbidden (but also not encouraged - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instructions critically. Its author has his own view on the process of assembling the model, you may have yours. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. Don’t rush to scold the author if you don’t like something. Try to delve into the ideas that prompted the technologist to adopt this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?

Checking for lice

The overall quality of the model is quite easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. To avoid losing the cut parts, it is recommended to keep them in a special box. The parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but under no circumstances should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Cleaning parts

There may be traces of mold grease and other grease stains on the castings; these should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts in warm water for about ten minutes, then scrub them thoroughly with soap and an old toothbrush. Rinse under running water and leave to dry.

Stripping

After the parts have dried, big piece Sand the flat surfaces with sandpaper and go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place where the halves are glued completely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesion glue. Also clean the places where the parts attach to the sprues.

It happens that one of the fuselage halves is cast with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small one wooden block, wrap it in sandpaper and treat the end of the fuselage rugs, especially carefully sanding in the area of ​​the protruding part. It is best to scrape the part itself not with sandpaper, but with half a razor blade. Use a modeling knife to remove the flash. In addition to the factory, a small “burst” may appear when sanding. Some plastics will peel. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of ​​the cutout for the cockpit canopy, in the air intake opening, and in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when the defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Adjusting the lantern

Fold the fuselage halves. They must fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat sanding the halves using sandpaper. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (while it can be secured with rubber bands). The lantern, again, must fit perfectly “in place”. Otherwise, carefully sand it down to fit it to the fuselage. There are “deadly” options - the canopy is thicker than the fuselage. Well, sand the plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the flashlight to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American floor polishing liquid. Adds transparency and shine to clear decals.

It is much worse if a gap forms between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the back of the fuselage. Such a defect can be “treated” with putty. The trouble is the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the inside of putty with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a model of a ship in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cutout for the center section.

Customizing the cabin interior

Now it's time to separate the cockpit interior elements from the sprues: dashboard, floor, back wall. Adjust the parts to fit by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and instrument panel are too wide for the fuselage halves glued together. On some models, the side panels of the cabin are cast integrally with the fuselage halves; on some, the floor of the cabin together with the side panels forms a kind of bathtub. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Adjust it to fit.

Now cut off the small parts of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control handle. pedals, pilot's seat. Peel them and put them in a box so as not to lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes during the construction of a model it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removing broken parts, traces of pushrods, cleaning casting seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay careful attention to the selection of paints for the cabin interior. Group the pieces by color. Parts that are painted in different colors Conveniently clamped in crocodile clips. Make sure that the alligator’s “teeth” grip the parts securely - a stream of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping away a poorly secured part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often this is internal sides fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the cabin “decoration”: radio remote controls, trimmer controls, oxygen supply valve, etc. Most often these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting visible internal surfaces air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the included decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals, at best, correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent. Much greater realism can be achieved by brushing the dashboard with water- or oil-based paints. Painting the dash the base color is necessary even when using a decal. It is easier to paint instrument panels on which individual instruments are imitated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the instruments are outlined with a lead pencil. Finally, a drop of liquid glass or, at worst, colorless nail polish is placed on the scale of the device; after drying, the varnish or glass is lightly polished.

The Thunderbolt's instrument panel was painted black, and the instrument dials were painted white. Again, you'll have to start by painting the dashboard matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation instrument scale and “smeared” to the edges of the instrument. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. The scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the interior elements of the cabin, you can begin assembly. Provided the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause any difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from a physics course. The two parts are pressed tightly against each other, and a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. The drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the cabin interior is made in the form of a “bathtub”, as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and after gluing it must dry at least overnight. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and go to bed to fill it up. If not, adjust it using the familiar method of sanding, cutting and filing away excess plastic. After gluing the “bathtub” and the glue has set slightly, make a final check - once again put the fuselage halves together, one of which already has the cabin glued into it.

Assembling the fuselage halves

Usually the instructions recommend applying glue to mating surfaces fuselage halves. Most people do exactly this, but in this case there is a high probability of uncontrolled squeezing of excess glue onto the surface. external surfaces assemblies. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and coat them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, this case also has its pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on your fingertips, and the latter can leave imprints that are difficult to remove on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers away from the fuselage seam when applying the glue. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After drying for several hours, it is necessary to clean the adhesive seam flush, having previously protected the pilot’s cabin from sawdust with tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be given time to dry thoroughly. The seam is cleaned with sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been completed. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Let's add a wing and tail

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and rudders, the height is easy to approach.

Correction of defects in the brutal tail

On most small scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the stabilizer halves are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most often they are free of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to use “hot cleaning”.

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with the unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part and straighten it before it cools down. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thinner parts require less heat. All tail surfaces have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, which can be completely eliminated by bathing in hot water It's easy to damage the edges. It is advisable to bend only the thick layer of stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying and degreasing.

Adjustment of tail surfaces

Insert the stabilizer half into the fuselage. As a rule, the joint location, even on good models, requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but in the meantime we need to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer matches the sagging on the fuselage. If the bead is thicker, then it needs to be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, but if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have adjusted the tail unit in place, you can begin gluing it. If the rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the mating surfaces and press the rudder to the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued as if it were in the neutral position, so make sure by examining the model from the front, rear and top several times that correct position steering wheel

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has cured, you can begin to attach the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. It is best to check by eye that the stabilizer is glued correctly by inspecting the assembly strictly from the rear with a 90-degree turn. In this case, the stabilizer occupies vertical position and it’s easier to mentally compare the relative positions of its halves; the halves should be on the same axis. Having set right angles, secure the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

Wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and a common bottom for the right and left planes, there are also wing planes cast in one part. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Aligning and gluing the rigid wing

Defects hard wing eliminated by the already familiar “heating-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing the planes, you should control the transverse “V” angle and the installation angle of attack. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and “V” for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. It is convenient to control the uniformity of the transverse angle by the width of the gaps between the planes and the center section. Gluing the planes. Check the installation angles and secure the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. Working with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage is extremely inconvenient, and the jointing is almost always damaged during the work. However, there’s nothing you can do, don’t leave a gap. With the proper skill, it is quite possible to restore the jointing.

Alignment and gluing of wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes using sandpaper; a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's fold the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and jointing lines should converge. In practice, we usually have to remember the saying “the tail is out, the nose is stuck.” After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the jointing lines do not match. It is best to take the coincidence of the jointing lines of the upper and lower halves as a reference point when gluing. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and secured with narrow strips of camouflage data. Gluing occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After the glue has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto the joints that they covered. While one plane is drying, you can work on the second. Finishing of surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the glue has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage in the same way as solid halves. Once again, it doesn’t hurt to remind you: control the installation angles, first of all, the transverse “V” angle.

Aligning and gluing a three-piece wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower one, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Reinstall bottom part wing and secure it with masking tape. Check the installation angles. Then place the upper ladles of the planes in place and also secure them with tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of a four-part wing: mismatching of the tips and jointing lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert thin plastic spacers of the same thickness into the gaps between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine, make the capillary effect work for the good cause of gluing the upper halves with bottom. After the main adhesive seam has set, remove the tape and apply glue to the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before puttying and cleaning. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in assembling the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.

The world of leather and fur is a fascinating world of handicrafts that gives a lot of positive creative emotions. But working with natural fur differs from other types of sewing work. Knowledge of the technology of sewing fur products is required, including the cutting of natural skins, and the rules for selecting fur. You need to master the techniques of making connecting seams of skins, have skills in working with a furrier's machine, etc. In addition, no video tutorials or courses on working with fur can provide the most important thing - experience that appears only after years of working with fur.

How to sew fur at home? What is a furrier's machine and is it possible to do without it? How to cut and what knife can you use to cut natural fur skins? These and other issues are briefly outlined in this article.

How to sew fur pelts by hand stitching

Fur parts, unlike leather, are joined either by hand or on a special furrier's machine. Sewing fur on a conventional sewing machine makes the seam stretched and of poor quality, and besides, the leather fabric of the fur may tear from this method of joining.
There are several techniques for joining fur skins by hand; I suggest you study one of the options for a manual furrier’s seam with a “double puncture”.

First, the edges of the two skins to be sewn are folded with the hair inward so that the hair is not visible during sewing. The needle should pierce both skins towards itself, that is, from the reverse side, but you can start from the left edge or the right, whichever is more convenient for you. The main thing is to figure out how to make such a stitch.

Do you like indoor or garden flowers? At the Green Gate nursery you can buy rooted cuttings and divisions of various domestic and perennial garden flowers. We have a constantly updated collection of anthuriums and hibiscus. Flowers and plants are sent by mail.

The furrier's hand stitch is made with simple stitches across the edge from right to left with a small step between stitches. Stitch forward, stitch in place, in the same holes from the needle, and again stitch forward, stitch in place, etc.
Experienced furriers always repeat the stitch, that is, the needle always goes through the same hole twice. Stitch density (0.3-0.5cm) and stitch height (0.3-0.8cm) depend on the thickness of the leather fabric. The thicker the fur pelt, the higher the stitch, and vice versa.

After joining the fur skins with a furrier's seam, both parts are unfolded and the seam is straightened by tapping along it with a small hammer from the side of the leather fabric. The seam is smooth, flat and strong, and the edges of the connected parts are positioned end-to-end.

A slight difference in the hair length of the two skins being sewn together can be evened out by moving up the edge of the skin with the longer hair. In this case, the stitch should be tightly tightened. By the way, when performing a hand furrier's stitch, you should not tighten the thread too much; it is enough to simply “pick up” the slack in the thread. It is much more important to maintain the same thread tension in each stitch.

Some seams need to be taped

Some areas of fur clothing need to be duplicated, for example, hem, collar, hem and others. Duplicating with cushioning material will protect them from stretching and give them the required shape.
It is imperative to strengthen connecting seams such as armhole seams, neck seams, and shoulder seams. These areas are subject to stretching and the tape sewn into the seam strengthens and strengthens it.
In sewing accessories stores you can buy regular cotton tape 1.5-2cm wide and use it for these purposes. There are also special adhesive tapes, which furriers call “amplifiers”. They are also used when sewing products made from genuine leather.
The tape is placed on one side.

Connecting furrier seams need to be stretched

Pieces of skins connected into one whole must be stretched wooden surface. To do this you will need small nails and a hammer.
A fur skin collected from different pieces is lightly moistened with a damp sponge from the side of the leather fabric and then nailed along the edges with nails to the board, at the same time slightly stretching it.
This is very difficult process, experience is required, so I will not dwell on it in detail. I will only say that with the help of such an operation, the fur skins are leveled, the seams are straightened, and sometimes it is even possible to increase the size of the skin.

Working with fur requires the presence special tool. In addition to the shoemaker's knife, with which (not scissors) the fur skin is cut, many other tools are also used. For example, a hammer for smoothing and softening seams, adhesive interlining tapes, special needles for hand sewing, threads, etc.

Why can’t you cut natural fur skins with scissors? Because scissors cut the hair, and the seam after joining will be very noticeable.

A small hammer and postal small nails are a must-have in a furrier's kit. You need to use a hammer to soften the connecting seams by tapping them, and you will also need it when stretching the moistened skin on a wooden surface.

Reinforcing tapes, 0.8-1.5 cm wide, are installed (glued) onto the cut edge of the skin in places where the fur will experience tension, for example in the armhole, neck of a fur coat or vest, etc.

Be sure to get non-adhesive cushioning materials. They will be needed to strengthen the side of a fur coat or fur vest, collars, cuffs, etc.

Buy a good metal comb for combing your hair. With its help, it is good to “comb” the junction of the skins.

You will also need an awl, strong threads, special needles, leather glue, a thimble, and, of course, a sharp shoe knife. By the way, you can use a regular stationery knife with a retractable blade instead. It is inexpensive and a dull blade can be easily “sharpened.” To do this, you just need to break off the lower section of the blade with pliers (at a special mark).

Working with fur has one important advantage - you can always add the missing piece to any part or replace a section of fur skin with another, since the connecting seam will be hidden in thick hair.

The fur pelts of any fur-bearing animal are never exactly the same. They differ in size, hair height, shade, and sometimes some skins have “bald spots” and other defects. In general, selecting fur is the most important skill for which a good furrier is valued.

The correct selection of fur will make the fur coat “monolithic”, as if sewn from one large skin, without focusing on the joining of skins of different quality and shade. Good master a furrier, like a sculptor, feels fur and sculpts a real work of art from different pieces, which is why sewing fur products is the most expensive service of the atelier.
It is difficult to give any specific recommendations on the selection of skins, but when sewing, for example, a fur vest, place the best pieces of skin (back) on the center of the front and back. It is advisable to install the side parts of the skins in other places, for example, in the side seams.
When connecting different pieces of fur skins, pay attention to the height of the fur and its shade. Attach them to each other and compare, if they fit, connect them together.

How to sew fur skins on a furrier machine

Fur skins are sewn together either by hand or using a furrier's machine. To make a furrier's seam on a machine, the skin at the seam is folded with the hairs facing each other, carefully tucked the hair inward with the index finger or an awl, and the edges of the skin are sewn together. The stitch height and width are adjustable.

The thickness of the needle and thread should correspond to the thickness of the leather fabric. Choose the color of the threads not to match the color of the fur, but to the color of the leather fabric, then they will be less noticeable on front side skins.
When working on a furrier's machine, you should carefully tuck the hair between the skins, since the furrier's machine will “put” hair into the seam, which will be very difficult to pull out. In addition, this can lead to malfunction of the furrier’s machine, skipping stitches, breaking the needle, etc.

For arctic fox and fox skins, use thread No. 80, for thin rabbit skins - No. 50, 60, for other skins - No. 40, 50.
After joining, the furrier's seams are smoothed with the butt of a shoemaker's knife or with light blows of a hammer with a rubber sole.

You can cut fur only with a special shoe knife on the back side of the fur laid out on plastic board or plexiglass. It is inconvenient to cut with a knife on a wooden surface; the tip of the knife will constantly cut into the boards. If you cut off a fur skin with scissors, some of the fur will fall off on both sides, and when joined, the seam will be very noticeable.

I advise beginning furriers to first work with old fur that has not yet lost its aesthetic qualities. In addition, such fur can be slightly updated if you combine it with genuine leather and install new accessories.

Otter fur is considered the most wear-resistant.

Fur skins have a standard of wearability. Otter fur is considered the most durable and resistant to waterlogging. It is the otter that has the honor of being the standard for all fur-bearing animals, and the fur of fur-bearing animals is compared against it. Even sable fur is inferior to it in strength and wear resistance.

So, if otter fur is 100%, then sable - 80%, mink - 70, arctic fox - 65, astrakhan fur - 60, fox - 50, muskrat - 45, squirrel - 30, ermine and weasel - 25, rabbit - 12, mole and gopher - 10, hare - 5.

Don't put mothballs in your fur coat. Some furs, including humans, are allergic to mothballs.
Protect natural fur from wiping, such areas make the fur coat very old.
Faded and elongated areas of fur on a fur coat may appear when driving a car. Try not to ride in a car wearing a long fur coat, it is uncomfortable and will quickly ruin it appearance.
Natural furs should be protected from direct impact various chemicals, as well as perfumes. This can cause the hair to lose its shine and the skin tissue to lose its elasticity.
Try to avoid getting fur clothing too wet. If you do get caught in wet snow, dry your fur coat or fur vest at room temperature in a ventilated area, but not near a heater.

Updated for World of tanks 1.0.1.1 WOT patch.

Do you want to bring something new to World of Tanks, change the standard appearance of tanks? Then the presented modification is what you need. With its help you can significantly transform the models of some tanks. Moreover, some cars will become completely unrecognizable.

Many fans of Soviet STs will like the transformation of the T-62 and Ob 140. They look really impressive and militant.

On this moment The mod allows you to change the appearance of 48 tanks. Most of them are premium level eight cars. Although there are some interesting exceptions.

The modification allows tanks of the American nation to change their color.

The French add some new elements, original parts, protective covers, lights, and additional screens.

The British medium tank FV 4202 has undergone interesting transformations.

Installation

Run the installer, follow the prompts

Download Assembly of models and skins Milky’s Mod Shop

So, you have decided to take up modeling, but you have very vague ideas (or no idea at all) about what it is, where to start and what is needed for it. In this short article I will try to describe in an intelligible and understandable way for every reader the entire process of creating good, high-quality models.

Please note that no matter how strange some of the steps in this guide may seem to you, you still cannot skip them, otherwise the model will turn out to be bad and incorrect. While reading the article, you may come across unfamiliar words - I will not compile a list of terms and describe their meaning - just search the Internet. We will learn from the principles of aircraft modeling, which are also suitable for other areas. The basics of modeling are the same for everyone. So!

Chapter 1 - Where to start?

Well, you'll have to choose something else. Have you chosen? Great, let's move on to the next point - buying a tool. You can choose the tool completely intuitively. The fact is that in reality, to assemble a model, you critically need absolutely all the tools sold in a model store, but you shouldn’t buy everything, since once you start assembling, you will still understand that the most main tool You still didn’t buy it because it wasn’t in the store and you will have to make it yourself. But more on that later.

The most important thing - don't forget to buy glue - the model cannot be assembled only with the help of moment and PVA lying around in your box, but don't worry, they will come in handy. I advise you to buy several adhesives at once - regular model, second, helium second... in general, choose what is closer to your heart. Don't forget to buy some putty, files, sandpaper... Then move on to the paint shelf. Here the situation is no better than with a tool. Again, you need ALL the paints sold in the store, but if you came to the store on your own and realize that you simply won’t bring the entire counter home, buy at least all the base colors, as well as those indicated in the assembly instructions your model.

Choose 15 brushes for yourself (if the store does not have 15 brushes different sizes- you can also buy brushes of the same size, but different manufacturers). Now you can move away from the paint counter. In essence, to paint the model you still need to buy an airbrush with a compressor, but you don’t have to rush yet. Until the moment you need them, you will find yourself in a model store more than once.

Now very important advice: While in a model store, under no circumstances should you consider how much money you will have to spend. You NEED to buy it anyway - why ruin your mood in advance? Do you remember? Great, now go back to the shelf with models and choose another model for yourself (you will understand why when you become a truly experienced modeler). Now go to the checkout and pay for your purchases. If you don’t have enough money, don’t even think about leaving any of the selected goods. It’s better to call your wife and ask to urgently bring the money set aside for the purchase of a refrigerator (don’t regret it, you won’t buy a refrigerator tomorrow anyway and you can always put it aside again, and you will have to assemble the model in the near future).

Chapter 2 - Assembling the model

Note: if there is no one else in the apartment except you, then you will have to look at the contents alone for the second time, but do not miss this important step in building the model.

Now take everything out of the box again, find the sprues on which the fuselage halves and wings are located. Find a tool in your purchases that can be used to separate these parts from the sprues. Separate and fold the fuselage halves together. Look at this structure for about 5 minutes, then attach the wings to it. Uncomfortable to hold? Try!

You can’t pull a fish out of a pond without difficulty, and for modeling this saying fits perfectly. Now find something to temporarily hold your structure in place, such as tape. Wrap all the parts together, place them on the table and admire them a little more. Now take everything apart initial position and put it in a box. Close the box and set it aside.

Chapter 3 - Workplace

Place a special model “rug” on the table. Oh yes, I forgot to add it to the list of necessary purchases in the model store, well, no problem, order it right now via the Internet. If you don't know what it looks like, just look through the entire catalog of the online store, and when you see it, you will immediately understand what we are talking about. To make the search easier, I’ll still give you a hint - it’s green and beautiful. The main thing is to buy a larger rug, preferably size A2 or even better A1! But let’s assume that you still thought of buying it in the store and we can move on. So, arrange all the tools around you. You don’t have to try to maintain order or some kind of sequence - anyway, after half an hour of work, everything moves between each other. Arrange the colors. Well, that's enough for today, you can go play with your child or do something else.

Chapter 4 - Reassembling

Find it in a box with construction tools model supplies (I think that's where they should have been), and at the same time set aside anything that seems applicable to assembling the model. It could be wire cuttings, pieces of plastic, a burnt-out transformer - in fact, anything can come in handy, so choose for yourself.

Return to the room and prepare your work area again. Place the box with the model on the table, lay out the parts on the table and begin to study the instructions. Don't make your wife angry and go eat; if you don't go for too long, she will be offended. Arguments that you are busy important matter they won’t have any power, and you’ll have to come to terms with that too. After lunch, wash your hands and try to get back to assembling the model. If you are distracted by anything else, put off the assembly until the next free day.

Chapter 5 - Precision and Aftermarket Purchasing

As you look through the photos, you will have some questions, the answers to which you will not find, and you will have to find some good modeling forum, register there and ask your questions. After that, while waiting for a response, you can start browsing through all the topics in a row. Look at the clock - it's time for you to sleep. The next day, read what they told you, put the model aside and pick up the second one you bought in the store.

Repeat the entire process from the second chapter up to this point. Now you need to wait for your order to arrive from the online store. But you have something to do: while you were reading the forum, you probably realized that you did not buy some very important tools, as well as a compressor with an airbrush. Take all the money you have saved for the refrigerator and go to the store.

Make a list in advance, but you don’t have to take it with you, you will still need to look at all the counters and you will definitely remember everything. Buy everything you need and one more model. You can go home. At home, repeat all the steps from the second chapter with the new model and hide it somewhere. Explain to your wife the need for a compressor and an airbrush, prove that the old refrigerator can be used without problems for several more years.

Chapter 6 - Build with Aftermarket

• Try not to lose the instructions - they are quite useful. If you still cannot find it, start searching in the remaining boxes, then in the stack of magazines in the toilet - if this does not bring results, then you will have to spend considerable time searching.
• Before assembly, do not forget to check how the model fits into the drawings. Even if the inconsistencies are tiny, and you understand that no one will notice this on the assembled model, correct this defect anyway, no matter how much effort it costs you. After all, it doesn’t matter whether the error is noticeable if YOU know about it!
• When you cut off parts from the sprue (just for fun) that you will need only at the 30th assembly step, still think about how easy it will be for you to identify this part in the future. If you are assembling a cockpit and realize that the external antennas are very similar to one another, after cutting them off, try to remember well which one was under which number.
• Try to detail the internal components and elements as much as possible. Don't worry about whether these components will be visible on the assembled model. Even if not, and in order to admire them again you will have to break the model - work hard! What if someone breaks it someday and sees emptiness inside! The only thing is, don’t forget to photograph everything before you hide it in the fuselage forever.
• If you were careless enough to drop a part smaller than 30x30mm on the floor - do not try to find it - the probability positive result searches are minimal - just waste time, during which you can start making this part by hand, especially since it will be better homemade anyway. And when your wife brings the lost part a week later and asks: “Dear, what kind of plastic piece did I find under the refrigerator today?”, thank her and put this part in a special box - as a keepsake.
• If you don't like a handmade part even a little, remake it, no matter how much time you spend on it. Remember the main thing - YOU will know that this part is not as good as you would like.
• If during assembly you need to sand some part of the model (for example, after puttying), do not be afraid of damaging the jointing. It's still not right and you'll have to cut it completely!
• If you don’t find the tool you need for the job, remember: every tool (that’s right, every one) can be made from things you have at home. The only thing is that sometimes you will have to ruin something else to do this, but don’t stop even if this other thing costs more than necessary tool- you don’t have time!
• Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work out for you - the prefix “re-” is integral to modeling. So words like cut, repaint, re-glue should not scare you. On the contrary, it should mean that you are doing everything right and are gradually becoming a real modeler!
• Try to develop a reflex among your roommates - not to disturb you when you are assembling the model. If the reflex is not developed, try not to pay attention to what is happening around you - abstract yourself.
• Your relatives should also remember that everything chemical substances, which you use are NOT harmful to health. But nevertheless, use them in a ventilated area and do not allow children into the room while using them - just in case.
• If during assembly you encounter a problem that you cannot overcome at the moment (for example, the lack of the necessary material or the ability to make some part), put the model aside and start assembling another one.
• So that you do not face another problem - the lack of a model that can be assembled, every time you go to the store for one jar of paint, buy one or two new models at the same time.

Chapter 7 - Painting

If you don’t find such information in the book, try looking for an eyewitness. In fact, there are quite a lot of ways to find out what color to paint, say, the back of the pilot’s seat or any other part. But even if you don’t succeed, remember the main thing: under no circumstances paint everything one by one, as indicated in the instructions!

Now start painting the model itself. First, choose which color scheme you want to reproduce. The instructions usually indicate several options, but this is not enough for good painting. You will find a few more (5-10) on the Internet. Now you can choose. The choice should be to look for the option with the most complex camouflage (even if it turns out not to be the most beautiful). Otherwise, everyone will think that you are looking for simple ways and no one among modellers will respect you.

Apply a coat of primer to the model. Scratch your head. While you are scratching, think to yourself: “I seem to have putty on it... I seem to have sanded it too...”. Re-spackle and re-sand the model. Prime again. This process can be repeated an infinite number of times. The same goes for the painting itself. The main thing is to find out how to remove the paint you use. And go ahead, don’t be afraid - the air in the compressor will not run out, and paints, in general, are not that expensive. After you finally achieve the desired painting result, put the airbrush in a drawer, place a large fingerprint on the model in the most visible place, remove the airbrush from the drawer and repeat everything from the beginning.

Repeated? I hope you won't repeat the mistake with your fingerprint and will be more careful. Start with decals. I think you have already guessed that the decal that was sold to you with the model is incorrect and bad. Order several suitable decals from well-known, expensive manufacturers, ruin a few of the most complex pictures, and make them yourself. Now the model needs to be given a realistic look. To do this, you will have to “spoil” the impeccable result of your work with the airbrush - scrape, scratch, dirty, wash off, because there are no clean airplanes with unscuffed paint and without scratches!

Conclusion

Afterword

Dopeless aka Rostislav Chernyakhovsky

— your guide to the world of scale modeling!

At one time (the beginning of the 2000s) there was such a wonderful magazine about large-scale modeling - Scale models. It was produced for a relatively short time, about 2 years. Nevertheless, a large amount of foreign materials was collected and analyzed, and original articles were written.

Of course, some of these materials are now obsolete. Simply because the quality of models has changed dramatically since then; new specialized products appeared that made some of the modeling technologies unnecessary. The majority of modern modellers do not have the amount of time for various kinds of problems that they had before.

However, there are a number of materials whose value does not decrease over time. Quite the contrary. After all, no matter how many models, materials or tools change, this is the foundation of understanding WHAT And HOW need to do remains the same.

That's why I decided to include MOST interesting articles from the magazine Scale models in the materials on our website.

Today I will start publishing the series HOW TO ASSEMBLE A PLANE MODEL , which examines the basic aspects of the work of a modeler in this direction.

An airplane flying in the sky makes any person who is not alien to the feeling of beauty look at themselves in fascination. A well-assembled model of an airplane can be as pleasing to the eye as a real one, and a whole collection of models can transform simple apartment to a whole aviation museum.

Model manufacturers offer customers a large number of assembly kits.

These kits come with assembly instructions that only give an idea of ​​where to attach which parts, without saying anything about how to ensure that the assembled model resembles a “live” aircraft as closely as possible.

In this publication we will try to summarize domestic and foreign experience in assembling models. We are not discovering America - if you have already collected models, then you already know much of the following.

What if you forgot something?

TOOLS

To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife, tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of sandpaper: coarser-grained for initial processing and very fine-grained for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.

putty
Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking tape

Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as THIN as possible the tape.

Dye

A large number of paints for models are produced, from nitrate to water-based acrylic paints. It is better to finish with acrylic or oil paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be sprayed with semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint will give a matte surface, but the airplane model should have a slight shine.

Brushes

For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.

Workplace

A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen table when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.

Tool location

All tools must be placed carefully and at the same time so that they are at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.

Files

It is good to store separated small parts in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.

Tweezers

In a complete model kit there will always be pieces of steel that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. An airbrush and a compressor will require the largest financial allocations, separated from the family budget.

Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!).

In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.

"Extra Hands"

Small metal “alligator” clamps used by radio installers are a great help in this work. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.

Drill

When assembling and especially when modifying a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. You can also use a drill to process the surfaces of the model using different attachments.

Wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters. borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

File

A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

TO BE CONTINUED…