Laying paving slabs with tile adhesive. Foundation mixes for paving stones. Clinker and porcelain stoneware

Today we will talk to you about the topic - styling paving slabs on concrete base. The most common method is laying it on a compacted sand bed. But in places where there is high traffic (playgrounds) or load (car parks), paving slabs should be laid on a reliable and prepared concrete base.

Concrete screed is also used on unstable soils or clay soils.

Pros and cons of laying tiles on concrete

The installation principle is similar to installation tiles on a concrete screed, as a result of using this technology you get a number of advantages.

The disadvantages include:

Concrete base installation technology

The entire technology for pouring a concrete base can be divided into two stages:

1. Preparatory stage. The process of reinforcing and pouring concrete.

And so we start with marking the site. Here you can turn on your imagination and draw on paper any shapes and configurations of recreation areas, parking spaces or paths in your plot of land. After you have thought through everything and drawn it, we transfer this drawing to the site.

1. When we have marked everything out and decided on the method of laying the borders. We dig a trench at different bottom levels. We clear the bottom of roots, debris and stones. In order to reduce the mixing of crushed stone with the ground to zero, you can use geotextiles; it also prevents the roots of grasses and plants from germinating. Then we fill it with crushed stone and tamp it down. As stated above minimum thickness 10 cm. Then we make a 2 cm layer of sand (sand + cement). In order to prevent moisture from penetrating concrete elements from the ground, a layer of waterproofing is made. If we use roofing felt, then one layer is enough, and if polyethylene film, then we use two layers.

We will consider the case when we immediately install curbs and trays storm system, they will play the role of formwork for the concrete base. After the sand and crushed stone base is ready, use cement mortar to level the curbs and lay the storm drainage trays.

Reinforcement of paths with small dynamic load carried out in one layer. Reinforcement is made with reinforcing mesh or wire mesh.

For paths, the grid level should be located at a depth of 2-3 cm from the top edge of the concrete. To do this, you can use stands made of concrete or plastic.

If our concrete base is 15 cm thick, then first fill a 12 cm layer. Lay the reinforcement grid and fill the remaining 3 cm. concrete mortar.

Reinforcement of areas with large dynamic loads is carried out in 2 layers. The first layer is placed on stands 2-3 cm high, and the top ones on special devices(spiders, tables).

The grids are laid overlapping, at least one section. The top layer is also located at a depth of 2-3 cm, from the top edge of the concrete base.

These are simply boards laid along their entire length; after pouring, they are dismantled, and before laying paving slabs on concrete, these seams are filled with an elastic compound.

These joints compensate for the expansion and contraction of concrete during sudden temperature changes, which allows the concrete surface not to crack or swell.

A drainage system must be provided. As mentioned above, you can lower the curbs lower, or leave a small distance between the curb and the concrete surface.

Some specialists drill ready-made poured concrete at intervals of 20-30 cm across the entire surface and fill the holes with fine gravel.

You can also use scraps of plastic or asbestos pipes. They are cut in half and holes are made on the spherical circle.

When a concrete solution is poured, they are installed in such a way that the spherical part is in a layer of gravel cushion, and the cut part is flush with the upper level of the concrete base. Before laying the tiles, the pipe space is also covered with fine gravel.

The base for pouring is ready, the reinforcing elements are ready, drainage system It’s also ready – you can start pouring the concrete solution.

For large volumes and convenient access, it is more profitable to order a ready-made solution, just be sure to prepare everything.

If this is not possible, then the concrete solution is prepared independently, and the composition of the concrete looks like this - crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a concrete mixer in a ratio of 3: 2: 1 + water. Pouring should be done continuously with a creamy consistency of concrete solution.

The top layer should not contain large fractions of gravel. After pouring, the entire surface of the concrete is covered with film for up to 1 week and watered periodically.

The seams between the tiles are filled with grout and spilled with water, this is done until the composition stops sagging. When using this method, you can walk on the surface during installation, and if one of the elements fails, it can be easily and quickly replaced.

Sandy- cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 3 parts sifted sand and 1 part cement, everything is thoroughly mixed with water until a creamy solution is obtained.

The solution is spread on concrete surface 2-3 cm thick. The tiles are laid and tapped lightly with a rubber mallet. You should check the horizontal level of the tiles as often as possible.

To do this, use a building level. This installation method is budget-friendly and unpretentious. It is used when arranging large areas. We also fill the seams with gritsovka or sand and do not forget to shed the seams until the mixture or sand completely shrinks.

Tile adhesive. Buy glue already packaged and dilute it in small portions before use, as it sets quickly enough. The adhesive should be used for outdoor use (streets).

It is for this reason that the tiles should be laid out carefully. Diluted glue solution applied with a thickness of 0.5-1 cm. It is recommended to seal the seams with an adhesive solution. Or sand and prancing.

And one of the most important questions is whether it is possible to lay paving slabs on an old concrete surface. First you should inspect the surface, if it has a large number of defects (cracks, holes, chips), and is no longer so strong, then it is best to replace the concrete base.

And if the damage is not significant, then they should be filled with cement mortar, and the bumps and protrusions should be knocked down. But in general, after light reconstruction of the surface, the laying technology remains the same as when laying tiles on a concrete base.

In this case, it is more advisable to use glue as a connecting element.

Conclusion

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is a reliable and proven technology for arranging sites with increased dynamic and static loads.

Yes, the cost increases sharply due to the formation of a concrete base, but the service life is much longer than that of sand-crushed stone bases, which will justify all your costs. We emphasize that only compliance with the entire technological cycle will provide you with long-term performance characteristics.

IN last years The picture of cracked tiles on the facades and staircases of buildings has become too frequent and familiar. We no longer even notice the next opportunity, reflexively attributing the winter “design” to climatic conditions- it’s frosty. However, unpleasant conditioned reflex What helped us develop was not the peculiar geography that even Napoleon could not resist, but the elementary crookedness of would-be specialists, their lack of understanding of the rules for performing external tiling works. In this article we will look at how to avoid influence negative temperatures, how to choose frost-resistant tile adhesive (for porcelain tiles and clinker tiles).

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Types of adhesives

The best choice always comes with an understanding of the situation as a whole. To decide on an adhesive for exterior use, first familiarize yourself with the types of adhesive compositions and their purpose. Construction market offers following types adhesives:

• Universal. He can handle standard tasks: tiling rooms with small and medium-sized slabs, laying slabs outside (except for porcelain stoneware and clinker ceramics). Most inexperienced “users” who have started repairs prefer it without delving into the technological nuances. Despite recommendations for cladding both inside and outside, testing low temperatures You shouldn’t expose it, otherwise you may become the culprit for the appearance of another ugly picture.
• Reinforced. This type is suitable for slabs with an area of ​​more than 30x30 cm. If the universal one, despite the loud name, is more appropriate to use when laying wall tiles, this one copes well with the requirements for increased adhesion during floor work, including external ones. But, again, it responds adequately to dynamic and static loads, but not so well to temperature loads, so it is better to do without porcelain stoneware.
• For lining swimming pools (moisture resistant). Long-term exposure to water negatively affects regular glue. The specificity of the application forces the use of a composition that is not destroyed by moisture and does not peel off from the ceramic under hydrological conditions. It is not suitable for outdoor work.
• Heat resistant. The opposite of frost-resistant, it is used when lining fireplaces, stoves and other places with elevated temperatures.
• For non-standard surfaces. Used when laying tiles on wood, metal, etc.
• White. Suitable for cladding with transparent mosaic.
• Frost-resistant. What you need to do outside work in domestic conditions. Any place where there is no constant heating– “client” of this type adhesive composition, fulfilling the main requirement - guaranteed resistance to temperature changes. The mixture is based on special additives that promote greater elasticity and adhesion to the base and ceramics, and prevent deformation of the adhesive. Depending on the manufacturer and brand of the composition, frost-resistant glue can withstand up to -50 degrees.

Comparison of some glue brands

Today in Russia, Ceresit and Yunis mixtures are popular. You might find it helpful to check out a few brands that are suitable for outdoor use. Each company wide choose compounds, most of which are not recommended for use in winter period outside. Among those that successfully withstand negative temperatures:

• Ceresit CM 17.
• Ceresit CM 117.
• Yunis 2000.

Ceresit CM 17

The main advantages are excellent adhesion and good elasticity. It is not afraid of moisture and is an excellent layer between the base and porcelain stoneware.

Ceresit CM 117

He can handle any slabs (except marble) and different types bases: cement, concrete, lime. In addition to the fact that by default the adhesive is suitable for interior and exterior work, lining pools, etc., the addition of plasticizers allows it to be used even when laying ceramics in outdoor pools. The characteristics will become clear from the table.

Unis 2000

The glue is similar to the mixtures of the previous manufacturer, the scope of application is wide. In the details that the table illustrates, there is a noticeable difference with Ceresit solutions.

Clinker and porcelain stoneware

Speaking about mixtures for outdoor use, we cannot fail to mention clinker tiles and ceramic granite. The fact is that only these types of ceramics are suitable for installation in unfavorable (primarily in terms of temperature) conditions. Regular tiles are too porous, which leads to high water absorption. Water at zero temperature goes into solid state. Pores clogged with liquid can withstand the load for a small number of cycles - the tiles collapse and the adhesive peels off. Even the frost resistance of the latter does not help.

Thus, when solving the problem of choosing an adhesive mixture, we are faced with polar problems. The glue must simultaneously provide excellent adhesion (in conditions of low porosity), be elastic for negative temperatures and withstand repeated (often sharp) temperature changes. But you already have a guideline, modern technologies solve all core problems. The tiler is required to make a competent choice and strictly adhere to technological processes.

The street and low water absorption of porcelain and clinker tiles require some additional effort on the part of the tiler. If when laying ordinary ceramics it is enough to apply glue to one element (base or ceramics), then be sure to coat both elements. This increases the mixture consumption slightly, since in one of the cases it is possible to limit the thinnest layer. Apply glue and immediately remove with a spatula. The remaining mixture enhances adhesion like a primer.

Laying on mortar

In some cases, it is possible to lay tiles on cement-sand mortar in winter. If the geographical location of the object allows, in the absence of severe winters, you can do without glue. This method is not recommended; moreover, it is not suitable for cladding vertical surfaces, but practice shows that the solution holds ceramics well even in cold weather.

When working with a solution, it is very important to “ironize” it, that is, sprinkle it with cement before facing it. “Ironization” eliminates the layer of water and sand that would otherwise inevitably appear when tapping the tiles. Back side Also treat ceramics to enhance adhesion. Spray it with PVA or again turn to cement for help. In the latter case, the “back” of the ceramic should be moistened and sprinkled evenly with cement.
Read about it in a separate article.
Carrying out tiled exterior work is not so difficult task. Common sense, certain knowledge and responsibility are enough.

Paving slabs are an excellent alternative concrete or asphalt surface garden territory or garden paths V country house. The construction industry offers a wide variety of this flooring material - a rich range of colors, many shapes, sizes, allowing installation with various patterns.

The main advantage is the ease of installation, which can be performed by almost every owner with minimal construction skills. Besides, it's enough exciting activity, allowing you to experiment and fantasize about design.

Features of paving slabs

Today there are many forms of paving slabs on the market, and there is also the possibility of developing an individual design.

Many manufacturers offer clients to come up with the shape of the future product themselves, with the necessary parameters and the desired color. It's not very difficult process, first, an exact sketch is drawn, according to which template matrices are made, into which the concrete mixture is then poured.

The process of making paving slabs is quite simple and does not require significant financial investments, so if you really want to, you can make paving stones yourself. Thus, the entire process of producing and laying paving slabs will be completed independently at home. In production, sand, cement, a dry mixture of plasticizer, dyes and water are used.

Paving slabs have not only different shape and color, but also thickness. The most popular options range from 30 to 60 mm in height. Thicker paving stones are usually used for paving city streets and roadways that will be exposed to high pressure.

For country paths, which are not intended for travel road transport, 30 mm thick tiles are suitable, these are the most common types:

• Clover;
• Well;
• Checkers;
• Turtle;
• Florida.

The tiles are easy to lay in the shape of a brick, they are 60mm thick and are suitable for paths where there will be traffic.

Required tools and materials

In order to properly lay paving slabs yourself, you will need some construction tools:

• wooden or metal pegs;
• construction level;
• cord or tight rope;
• rubber hammer;
• shovel;
• tamping;
• rake;
• spatula or construction trowel;
• long rule;
• wheelbarrow;
• buckets;
• Bulgarian;
• broom.

Many tools will be found in the household of any summer resident; you will not need to spend money to purchase them.
In addition to the main material - paving slabs, you will also need other building materials:

• sand;
• crushed stone or gravel;
• geotextiles;
• cement;
• curbstone;
• water.

These materials will be needed to lay the base for the tiles.

Preparatory work

Having all the necessary available tools and materials, the next question arises - how to lay paving slabs correctly with your own hands in the country?

First you need to carry out preliminary work, which is aimed at preparing the soil before laying the tiles. At the location of the proposed path, the length and width are marked using wooden or metal pegs. Next, it is removed upper layer ground, its depth will depend on the selected thickness of the paving stones.

If you decide to lay thin tiles, up to 30 cm, then in this case you need to dig a trench at least 10 cm deep. Place sand in its base, in a layer of up to 5 cm, compact it, and fill it to the top with looser sand. The paving slabs will be laid on it with your own hands. If paving stones with a thickness of more than 30 mm are selected, then it is necessary to prepare a denser cushion. It will require sand, fine gravel, and geotextiles.

The excavation site must be covered with crushed stone, its layer leveled and compacted. It will be right next layer lay down sand; to enhance the strength of the cushion, you can use a dry mixture of sand and cement. This layer should be at least 15 cm; if a high load on the path is expected, then it is better to make it 40 cm. Sand and cement can be mixed in a ratio of 3:1, respectively.

In order to compact the cement-sand mixture, you need to periodically wet the surface and level it using a profile; any pipe or stick will do. In order for the pillow to better hold its shape, geotextiles are used - this is a polymer fiber that performs protective functions– does not allow moisture to seep in and prevents the growth of weeds. Geotextiles must be laid on compacted sand.

At the next stage, it is necessary to fill in the top layer of sand; it does not need to be compacted for the tile to lie down well, it must be loose.

An important point when preparing the soil and laying the cushion is to maintain the slope; you can do a longitudinal and transverse slope. To do this, every 1.5 - 2 meters you need to deepen the excavation by 1 centimeter. The slope is necessary in order to rainwater did not accumulate on the path, but flowed into the gutters.

Before laying paving stones

Laying tiles

The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands is quite simple. The first row of paving stones is laid on the prepared cushion along a stretched rope-level. To lay the path correctly, you need to start laying the tiles in the direction away from you. Between the rows you need to make equal spaces of up to 2 mm; it would be correct to use plastic crosses, this will make the work much easier, and the seams will be perfectly even.

The tiles must be pressed into the sand using a rubber hammer. The second row should be laid correctly from the middle of the brick, this will make the path at the dacha not only more beautiful, but also durable, wastewater the seams will wash out significantly less.

At the end of the masonry, the seams are filled with a mixture of cement and sand and watered generously with water. To give the path a more well-groomed look, you can fill the seams quartz sand. Curbs are laid in the same way as tiles, but to make them much stronger and not loosen, you can use M100 liquid cement mortar.

Laying tiles with glue

If concrete paths have already been made at the dacha, they can be improved with paving slabs. To do this, it is not at all necessary to remove the previous coating; the paving stones can be laid on top of the glue. This technology for laying paving slabs is simple, and the result is a stronger and more durable path along which vehicles and agricultural equipment can drive.

To do this you will need paving stones and special glue. You can buy a dry mixture at a hardware store and make glue according to the recipe indicated on the pack.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands using glue involves several stages. The first one is preparatory. It is necessary to clean the concrete screed from debris, it is better to moisten it with running water. Install boundary formwork along which to lay curbs.

If the finished concrete path did not have a slope, you need to organize it; the easiest way is to make a transverse slope, since a longitudinal slope will require large amounts of glue when laying paving stones.

The second main stage is that as the masonry progresses, glue is applied to the concrete base. Apply in an even layer, leveling with a trowel. If you decide to make a longitudinal slope, then with each subsequent meter it is necessary to apply glue, increasing the thickness of the layer. In this case, it is advisable to start laying from below, where there will be a drain.

Each slab should be immersed in the glue a few millimeters; you can help yourself with a rubber construction hammer. It must be remembered that the glue dries quickly. Therefore, do not immediately apply it to a large area.

You can use this method of laying tiles with glue not only on finished concrete path– putting a screed instead of a base pillow is quite simple. To do this, you need to prepare the soil, level it using the edge level, make a mixture and fill the base with it.

For concrete screed you will need cement High Quality, not lower than M500, otherwise the base will have a loose structure, sand and water, fine gravel can be added. But this option is quite expensive and is justified in the case of planned large loads on the track.

Price concrete mixture plus glue, and tiles can cost twice as much traditional version, where the main components are sand and gravel, which are quite cheap.

Video: Laying paving stones with tile adhesive

The OSNOVIT brand presents new solutions for laying paving stones and stones. Compositions with a mineral binder FLYFORM ensure proper drainage of water, protect coatings from swelling of soils and sprouting of joints, and extend the life of paving elements. The use of colored solutions in landscaping (paths, garden areas, barbecue areas) allows you to give an originality and aesthetic appearance to the site.

Traditional old way of landscaping local area serves as laying paving stones and stones on the sand. As a result of exposure to precipitation, as well as groundwater the underlying layers of sand are washed away, the road surface sags and collapses. The effect of destruction is aggravated when exposed to traffic loads. The irreversible consequence is the washing out of sand from the joints of the paving stones, as well as the formation of puddles in places where the underlying layers are destroyed. Sagging paving stones are an obstacle for pedestrians and cause inconvenience when passing small wheeled vehicles, such as baby strollers, strollers, wheelbarrows, bicycles, etc. Weeds, moss and debris can grow in unfilled joints, significantly worsening appearance coverings.

Gluing paving stones onto concrete bases and using sand concrete without properly filling the joints does not ensure the reliability of the structure. The materials of the installation layer freeze and collapse; the next step is the destruction of the concrete base. Rutting and subsidence of layers are among the most common accidental defects in coatings made of piece materials, are also the consequences of the destruction of foundations.

Advantages of the systems OSNOVIT FLYFORM are:

paving elements are rigidly connected to each other, forming a durable structure;

the color of the paving stone seams looks harmonious with colored masonry mortars OSNOVIT on the facade of a building, fences, steps made of clinker or ceramic bricks;

durability and resistance to weather conditions and seasonal temperature fluctuations;

resistance to light traffic loads;

ease of use and maintenance of the road surface;

resistance to abrasion and the impact of cleaning equipment.

A set of solutions for landscaping from TM OSNOVIT includes drainage solution, assembly adhesives, solutions for filling joints, as well as special solutions for cleaning and additional protection paving elements. Systems OSNOVIT FLYFORM designed for clinker paving stones, full-sawn and sawn-split paving stones natural stone, thin slabs of stone no more than 20 mm thick, as well as untreated stone with an uneven base of varying thickness.

When improving the earthen base, it is recommended to compact it with a sand and gravel cushion for the subsequent installation of the system OSNOVIT FLYFORM DRAINAGE, consisting of drainage underlayment mortar, thin-layer adhesive and mortar for filling joints. Compaction of layers bulk materials, installation of a drainage sublayer, installation of paving stones and filling of joints do not require long technological interruptions, allowing the installation of the system OSNOVIT FLYFORM DRAINAGE in several days. Fastening of paving stones to the drainage solution is carried out according to the “wet on wet” principle and ensures monolithic adhesion of the coating and the underlying layer.

System OSNOVIT FLAYFORM CONCRETE designed for installation of paving stones on concrete foundations, cement-sand screeds and requires careful preparation. Protection is key adhesive connection"concrete-road surface" with waterproof joint mortar. Seams are filled liquid method, the solution penetrates into seams with a width of 5 mm. To create a slope and proper water flow, the system provides for the use of leveling glue. The thickness of the layer allows you to level out unevenness up to 20 mm, gluing the paving stones to concrete with an adhesion force of 1 MPa.

For laying flagstone and natural stone, it is recommended to use a solution that allows the installation of the material while simultaneously cutting out the joint. The coating elements are embedded in a layer of mortar, forming a single waterproof system. The plasticity of the product allows you to lay stone with an uneven base with a total thickness of up to 30 mm. System FOUND FLAYFORM STONE requires preparatory concrete works, the base must be clean, sound and dry. It is recommended to provide for a coating slope at the base preparation level.

FLYFORM systems help reliably and efficiently pave paving stones and stones on concrete and sand-gravel bases, and can withstand pedestrian and vehicle loads weighing up to 3.5 tons. Use FLYFORM materials in gardening construction, landscape design, in urban improvement when creating bridges and pedestrian zones.

Glue for professional use during installation of the "Aqua stop" system. For laying paving stones on a concrete base, systems with any type of traffic load.

PROPERTIES
High moisture resistance
Improved elasticity
Increased performance properties
Improved adhesion to the masonry element

APPLICATION
Bonding paving stones and paving slabs of all types and formats
Can be used with systems for any type of transport load
Used with systems, Aqua stop, which do not allow water to pass through
Leveling the base surface

Technical
characteristics

Humidity of the dry mixture: no more than 0.1
Water consumption for mixing: 0.17 – 0.22 l/kg
Solution lifetime: at least 4 hours
Compressive strength after 28 days: not less than 15 MPa
Mobility of mortar mixtures. Mobility grade 6-8 Pk2
Water holding capacity: not less than 95
The adhesion strength of the solution to concrete slab at 28 days of age: not less than 1 MPa
Frost resistance grade: F50

Preparing the base

The substrate must be dry, strong, solid and not subject to shrinkage or deformation. dirt, dust, stains from petroleum products, oils and fats of various origins, peeling plaster or other coatings with poor adhesion to the base are removed. Protruding pieces mortar, concrete or other irregularities are also removed. Gypsum-containing and highly porous substrates are treated with a primer before applying the adhesive. At a temperature environment above 30°C, it is recommended to moisten the base before applying the glue.

Preparation of the solution: pour into a container of 4.5 - 5.5 l clean water t » 20°C. Pour 2/3 of the bag into a container with water, stir, then add the remaining amount of the mixture and mix thoroughly until a homogeneous consistency is formed. It is necessary to mix the adhesive solution mechanically using an electric drill with an attachment at an average speed of 400 - 600 rpm. Let the resulting mortar mixture stand for 3-5 minutes, then mix again. At 20°C, the prepared adhesive solution can maintain a working consistency for at least 2 hours.

Gluing: the adhesive solution is applied by rubbing the smooth side of a spatula into the base in order to fill microcracks and irregularities with glue and ensure the most complete contact of the glue with the base. When applying glue, the spatula is held at an angle of 60° to the base. At normal temperature and humidity, the adhesive applied to the base is in working condition for 15 minutes. However, under unfavorable environmental conditions, the time may change.

Glue consumption mortar mixture with a minimum recommended layer thickness of 3 mm, the AVERAGE is 4.5 - 5 kg/m². The consumption is indicated without losses due to atomization. Depending on the unevenness of the base and format facing material consumption may be increased. The actual consumption depends on the geometry of the laying materials, the void size, the size of the voids and the laying technology. For precise definition It is recommended to carry out a test laying of the amount of mortar.

PACKAGING AND SHELF LIFE
Glue mixture KAS is supplied in three-layer paper bags of 25 kg.
Shelf life: 6 months in original packaging in a dry, ventilated area.