How to make a homemade and simple mini burner. Features of burners with hard feathers

Pyrography is one of the techniques for applying images to solid surfaces made of organic materials using heated high temperatures subject. Wood is mainly used as the basis for the painting. The burning tool is a loop of wood fixed in a special holder. You can make a wood burner with your own hands different ways and even provide software control of the device.

However, such a scheme is quite complex, and its implementation will require equipment inaccessible to the general public. However, you can make a fairly simple burner with your own hands, literally from scrap materials and a power supply. It also has a simple circuit diagram for controlling currents in the primary circuit.

Operating principle of the pyrograph

Two questions arise at once: how to make a wood burner and how does it all work? To understand this, you need to understand the physical principles used in the device. In general, the device works as follows: it is heated from nichrome wire alternating current up to high temperatures. Upon contact with smooth wooden surface its charring occurs.

The degree of impact on the material can be adjusted by varying the contact time, its force and current parameters. The first two indicators are determined by eye by changing the color of the plate. Current adjustment is carried out mounted on the device body. Experienced pyrographers select the current once at the beginning of working on the image, and then only control the holder.

Materials and components for a homemade burner

Classic wood burner design industrial production difficult to implement in artisanal conditions. It was modernized by folk craftsmen, and as a result, current control was transferred from the output of the secondary to the input of the primary winding. This is how an adjustable soldering iron works. For rough enough heating element, which is essentially a piece of nichrome wire, the shape of the output voltage is not particularly important.

Much more important is the ability to more or less accurately adjust and stabilize the voltage. It is easier to achieve the required indicators by varying the indicators of the primary circuit. It is of particular importance in the secondary winding - it must be sufficient to withstand the current load on the heating element. Values ​​are calculated using the formula where resistance is equal to the ratio of voltage to current (Ohm's law).

Making a holder for a pyrograph

Its basis is a handle made of durable dielectric material. This could be a ready-made soldering iron handle made of wood or heat-resistant polymer. Voltage is supplied to the tool via a two-core electrical wire with double insulation of the PVA type. The cross-section of the conductor must be at least 1 sq. mm, which is quite enough to ensure safe work masters of pyrography.

A do-it-yourself burner is made in such a way as to exclude the possibility of harming a person electric shock. Important detail- a holder for a nichrome heater, which is nothing more than a piece of an incandescent coil for an electric stove open type. It is fixed on a board made of PCB or other material resistant to high temperatures.

The best fastenings for the filament element are electrical terminals with fixing screws. They are removed from plastic case and attached to the insulator. On one side, a power wire is inserted into them, passed through the handle, and on the other side, a nichrome heating element. After assembly, the plate is carefully inserted into the cavity of the handle and secured there.

Assembling and setting up the pyrograph

A homemade wood burner consists of a power supply and a holder with a heating element. It is connected to the secondary winding of the step-down transformer. For this purpose, standard screw wiring terminals installed on the board are used. The primary circuit of the transformer is controlled by a simple electrical circuit of three resistances, as many capacitors and two triodes.

Do-it-yourself wood burner is mounted in a plastic or metal case. To assemble the control circuit, the so-called wall-mounted installation. After assembly, the device is connected and configured. It comes down to checking the voltage regulation limits at the output of the secondary winding; they should fall within the range from 3 to 8 V.

Intended use of the device

A DIY wood burner is used to create paintings and other images. The procedure for working with it is as follows: the photograph is transferred from paper to the prepared surface using ordinary carbon paper. Then, using a well-heated device, lines, strokes and dots are applied, which will create a complete image.

Conclusion

Wood burner, made with your own hands from available materials, will be an excellent tool for creative development personality. This activity is equally exciting for both adults and children. The growth of the artist’s skill occurs during the development and consolidation of the skill of working with the device.

The device has two operating modes. In the first position of the switch " norm"(I), it operates at half power: approximately 30-35W. In the second " turbo"(II) - 65-70W. The yellow LED shines in both modes, red only in the second. Indication LEDs are any, not bright ( AL307).

In order to make an electric burner you will need a cheap ($2-2.5) switching power supply (UPS) made in China, at 50-60 W, for halogen lamps. You can find them in stores around furniture fittings or in hardware stores.

Burner circuit

Schematic diagram of an electric burner based on ET

On the Internet, I came across a modification for making a pulse soldering iron. In the case of a burner, minimal modifications to the UPS will be required.

First, remove the board from the case and solder the output transformer. A lot has been written about these schemes, so I won’t go into details. It copes well as an electric burner. Let me just say that bipolar transistors MJE13003 (TUVE13007) can be replaced with more powerful current ones - MJE13005, MJE13007 (last digit means operating current). When choosing a UPS, you need to take into account the fact that it should not be protected from short circuit!

So, having removed the transformer from the board, it must be disassembled. A lot has also been written about disassembling ferromagnetic transformers. But, I will share my experience. First of all, remove the film and use a knife to remove the glue on the core connection. Afterwards, heat in small capacity water to a boil. But we don’t immediately throw it into boiling water, but heat it first with warm water. Due to the fact that the quality of these trances is very low, they can break. Therefore, after warming it up a little, we put it in boiling water and leave it there for a few seconds. The procedure can be repeated and try to loosen the winding body, and also run a knife along the seams of the ferrite halves. In the end, you will be able to disassemble it, but do not rush, do everything with caution. In my case, even after breaking such a trance, I did not despair, and connected the four pieces of the core with tape. Some glue the cracked slices, but even without that it works just fine, tightly compressed with adhesive tape.

Having disassembled the transformer, remove the secondary winding, and in its place we wind 3-4 turns stranded wire, cross section 2.5-4mm2. Suitable for this electrical cable(network). The insulation is first removed, and in its place a heat-shrinkable casing of suitable size is put on. Why heat shrink tubing? Because she takes less space, regarding cable insulation. Now, we wind four turns, with a branch from the third. The voltage on the last turn will be approximately 9.0-10.5V. All that remains is to put the transformer back together and remove the leads, as can be seen in the photographs.

It's time to work on the body of the electric burner. For this we need an aluminum furniture leg. Yes, yes, furniture again! It is very cheap (less than a dollar), but most importantly it is made of 1 mm thick aluminum. Thus, the case will serve as a heat sink for transistors, which get very hot. Square leg height =100mm. The issue is also being resolved front panel. To do this, we disassemble the leg and leave a plastic plug with which we cut off a part - so that all the components of the product fit. Further, the radiator for transistor switches is also aluminum.

I used a 5mm thick plate radiator. It already had threaded holes, which I later used. But if you find a copper plate, it will definitely serve as a better heat sink. Also, you can use any other radiator suitable size. In addition to this radiator, I connected an aluminum U-shaped profile– you guessed it, it’s also furniture, which fits snugly into the square profile of the body.

The radiator must be in close contact with the body! This way, the heat will be distributed evenly, with greater efficiency, throughout the entire body, without requiring bulky radiators. The U-shaped profile is connected to the radiator plate with a small gap (2-3 mm) through small washers and then we screw this “sandwich” to the plate included in the impulse generator kit. Transistors and the board must be attached through an insulator, also from the UPS. It is preferable to ground the burner housing.

Don’t forget, the device is connected to a mains voltage of 220V, so we take all safety measures during assembly and commissioning!

Now, we drill holes in the plastic front panel for the electric burner operating mode switch - for wires and for LEDs red And yellow glow. We connect the LEDs with limiting resistors with hot glue, as can be seen in the photo.

Next, twist the switch and solder all the wires together (see figure). Switch – P2T-21(Soviet production, maximum switching power up to 660 W with active load). It is necessary to use the most powerful toggle switch possible, otherwise the contacts will overheat! Maximum power electric burner reaches 70 watts.

To the body, as legs (anti-slip), we glue self-adhesive cork or silicone (available from glaziers and furniture makers). As a handle, I used a ready-made handle from a burner industrial production. And if you make it yourself, then a handle from a burnt soldering iron will do. Or we cut it out of textolite, wood with a fluoroplastic tip of suitable thickness. Fastening for nichrome - the terminals of electrical blocks are just suitable for these purposes.

I found nichrome for tips with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 mm on the radio market. Suitable for different heating devices. It must be bent as in the photographs and the tip flattened with a hammer. I made two types of tips: one from millimeter nichrome - for burning and cutting, the other from one and a half millimeter, for rougher work. Accordingly, the second one will effectively heat in a more powerful operating mode of the device (turbo).

The wire for the electric burner must be selected with a large cross-section and the most flexible. Otherwise it will get warm. Naturally, the electric burner will work intermittently, approximately 15-30 minutes.

Firstly, the efficiency is very low, which leads to large heat losses. And secondly, the handle will heat up, which forces you to work with it cyclically. For more convenient use, I advise you to adapt a push-button pedal (from sewing machine or from some machine) or push button switch food, etc. I did not make additional holes in the case or radiator for heat removal. This is at your discretion, depending on the radiator used.

The device is very easy to manufacture, thanks to ready-made solutions to assemble it. It can be made by any beginner with minimal electronics skills. The main thing is to follow safety rules when working with it. After all, the tip temperature reaches 500-600 degrees.

If you make an electric burner for a child, then the presence of an adult when working with it is mandatory. I hope it brings joy and creative success! ).

Discuss the article ELECTRIC BURNER

Why exactly homemade burner? There are many domestic and imported models of electric wood burners on sale: Orbit, Pattern, Elm (ours), Stayer, Qiddycome (Chinese) and others. But lovers artistic painting hardened wood needles are not always happy with this available choice.

Domestic devices usually have only one needle, imported ones have from 4 to 21 nozzles with different needles, but suffer from fragility. Yes, and you won’t always buy it the required device V in the right place V right time. Here we will talk about the experience of one Siberian enthusiast, an amateur, making a high-quality homemade electric wood burner with 39 (!) needles (see photo). Let's conduct, so to speak, a master class on his behalf.
First of all, we set three basic requirements for the design:
1. Sufficiently high power of the power supply unit, allowing the use of needles of large cross-sections.
2. The possibility of stepwise voltage adjustment for working with needles of different sections and smooth adjustment to change the temperature of the needles in a wide range.
3. Convenient change of working needles.
Simple electrical diagram device is shown in the figure.

Now let's move on to the process of its manufacture.

We take any transformer with a power of at least 200 W (other characteristics are unimportant), for example, OSM 380/36V (250 kW). At lower power, the transformer will overheat when operating with needles of large cross-sections. Completely remove the secondary (upper) winding. The primary (network) remains in place.

We rewind the secondary winding: one or two layers of flexible insulated wire with a cross section of 6 mm 2 (for example, PV-3). You should first calculate the number of turns per 1 V of output voltage (by selection: wind several turns, connect the transformer to the network and measure the output voltage).

Let, for example, there be 4 turns per 1 V. Having determined the value of 2 V for the lower limit of the output voltage, we first wind 8 turns, and then make taps after every two turns. This will give a discreteness of 0.5 V for stepwise adjustment. To ensure a discreteness of 0.25 V, we will add another turn (in the diagram - the upper tap of 0.25 V).

In addition to stepwise, we also use continuous adjustment of the output voltage by inserting a variable wirewound resistor PPB-25 100 Ω into the primary winding circuit (R1 in the diagram).

Due to the high power of the device, we will abandon the male-female connector, and securely connect the working handle with the needle to the body with galvanized M6 bolts. We will equip the taps and ends of the secondary winding with 6/6 tinned copper tips.

Working with needles of large cross-sections requires a current of at least 30 A. Therefore, the cross-section of the wires of the working handle must be at least 4 mm². You can take two wires from rubber insulation from cable KG 4x4 (vinyl insulation of a wire of the same cross-section does not provide it with the required flexibility).

We grind the handle to lathe made of ebonite. We tightly insert a fluoroplastic plug with two brass rods into the front end of the handle for attaching the working needle (see photo). These rods fit tightly into the holes drilled in the plug. At the ends of the rods, 8-10 mm recesses are drilled. Tinned contacts are pressed into the recesses located inside the handle. A needle is attached to the outer recesses. M4 screws are suitable for clamping the needle.

You can use anything as a housing, you just need to remember safety. For example, the case from a megaohmmeter of the last century is very good: it is fantastically strong and durable.

If you love crafts, then you are probably familiar with decorative wood burning. This article describes how you can quickly and easily assemble an excellent wood burner from “improvised” materials, with adjustable incandescent temperature of the heating wire. The advantage of the described version of the burner is its simplicity, safety and ease of use.

Wood burner diagram:

If you need an inexpensive but very convenient and reliable wood burner, then pay your attention to Figure No. 1.

R1 – 1.2 MOhm

R3 – 27 KOhm

C1 – 27 nF or 273 nF / 300 V

C2 – 22 nF or 223 nF / 300 V

C3 – 47 nF or 473 nF / 300 V

FU1 – Fuse 0.5 - 1.5 A

VS1 – Dinistor DB3 / 30 V

TP1 – Step-down transformer 220/3…8 V Current depending on the load (resistance of the nichrome wire).

Operation of the wood burner circuit and its settings:

Even a novice radio amateur can make such a circuit or home handyman, you need primitive skills in the ability to solder and configure circuits (if all the elements are selected adequately and the circuit is assembled correctly, it will immediately work as it should). However, several subtleties should be highlighted separately:

1) Please note that the adjustment of the output voltage of transformer TP1 (and therefore the filament temperature of the nichrome wire) is carried out according to primary winding, don't let this innovation fool you! Since the circuit is taken as a basis, you should understand that for any heating element (in this case, a piece of nichrome wire) the shape and quality of the sine wave are not important.

2) However, I draw your attention to the fact that secondary winding The transformer must withstand the current consumed by the nichrome wire (you can easily calculate it by).

3) You should also use thick wires leading to the handle of the wood burner, and well insulated ones; failure to comply with electrical safety rules when assembling or using the device can lead to injuries!!!

Nichrome wire holder for wood burner:

Surely, assembling the power supply for the burner will not be difficult for you, but what to do if you do not have a convenient holder handle (electrode)? I offer you a very simple but very convenient option handles. You will need a thick wire, a dielectric (or wooden) handle from an old burnt soldering iron, a piece of PCB or carbolite or other dielectric heat-resistant material, electrical tape, nichrome wire (you can bite off a piece from an incandescent coil for an electric stove) Figure No. 2, and electrical terminals Figure No. 3 .

You need to remove the terminals from the insulation and screw them to the PCB as shown in Figure No. 4,5.

Then all you have to do is tape the wire with electrical tape (or attach it with a plastic clamp or thread) to the textolite pad and to the terminals (the ends of the wire must be soldered) and press it into the wooden handle (Figure No. 6).

Working with such a wood burner is a pleasure because, firstly, you have a comfortable handle in which you can quickly and easily replace a burnt-out nichrome wire since it is screwed to the terminals, unlike simple burners. Secondly, it is possible to adjust the temperature of the filament wire (Figure No. 7), which is quite important when working with various types of wood.

(Explanation for Figure No. 7: my version of the handle has a special tip that will be quite difficult for you to reproduce, which is why I offer you a simpler version with terminals)

Well, thirdly, the assembly of such a burner is relatively simple and not expensive. The only thing that will be difficult for you to choose is a step-down transformer because, despite the low voltage (3-8 Volts, depending on your needs), the secondary winding must be designed for a high current (from 3 Amperes).

When you have assembled all the details of the wood burner, all you have to do is stuff it all into a neat case and start burning out various kinds of pictures and works of art, Figure No. 8.

P.S.: I tried to clearly show and describe not tricky tips. I hope that at least something is useful to you. But this is not everything that can be imagined, so go ahead and study the site

Today pyrography (the art of wood burning) is gaining increasing popularity among fans non-standard ideas home creativity. And there is a simple explanation for this - with the help of a compact electrical device you can burn not only patterns and primitive drawings, but entire paintings that are fully worthy of becoming masterpieces of art.

Portable household pyrograph electric type with replaceable brass tips or a “loop” made of nichrome wire allows you to burn on different materials: wood, plywood, leather and cardboard. There are many models of burners on the market, but many of them are not satisfactory either in price or in quality. Therefore everything more people prefers to make a wood burner with his own hands. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to remember the main points and approach this issue correctly.

How to make a wood burner with your own hands: useful tips

Any work at home, especially that which concerns the manufacture of electrical appliances, begins with careful preparation. It is necessary not only to carefully study the electrical circuits and plan the sequence of actions, but also to prepare in advance the basic materials and improvised devices that will be useful in the process of creating an electric burner. If with similar work If you are encountering this for the first time, it would be a good idea to watch training videos on YouTube to better understand what you have to deal with.

Now let's take a closer look at how to make the simplest burner with your own hands. First, you will need to decide on the tasks and select the necessary components for the job. If you need a simple burner, it will be enough to use a power supply or battery, as well as nichrome wire or a medical needle. To make a powerful soldering station for burning, you will need to find or make a separate transformer unit at home, and also use a thermostat (as an option, a dimmer for light bulbs is suitable).

In this article we will look at popular options for the simplest pyrographs, the manufacture of which does not require special skills and knowledge. Can be used as a step-down transformer Charger from a smartphone or battery from a screwdriver. Optimal characteristics are 5 V and 2 A. If you take a charge of lower power, then the working tool of the device is unlikely to be able to heat up to desired temperature. Additionally, you will need needles (sewing or medical) and terminals, as well as Consumables: strong threads, superglue, flux and solder.

Battery operated burner

To make an electric burner, similar to a pyrograph on nichrome wire, you will need:
— needles from syringes;
- two-wire wire;
- small toggle switch;
- strong threads;
— rechargeable battery;
- wooden stick.

Take two needles and cut off the lower part from them, which fits onto the “nose” of the syringe. Then screw the wires onto the blunt end of the needles. After this, securely fix the medical needles with threads on the lower end of the wooden stick. Also connect the wires to the toggle switch, and then glue the battery itself and the toggle switch to the handle-holder, carefully connecting the elements together. Detailed diagrams A burner with a battery can be found on the Internet.

Take the pliers and bend the ends of the needles so that they touch tightly. That's all. Now you can start drawing images and designs on plywood or a wooden blank.

How to make a mini wood burner

Find or make a suitable wooden handle with your own hands - it is advisable to use a blank rectangular shape. Many home craftsmen advise using a wooden glazing bead rather than a block as a holder, but in this case this option will not work. Hammer two nails into the end of the future handle-holder. If desired, you can pre-drill holes of a smaller diameter to prevent the workpiece from splitting. After scoring in wooden block nails, bite off their heads - they will not be useful.

At the next stage, you need to mark a line along the base of the workpiece (on both sides) and cut grooves for the wire. To do this, you can use either special carpentry tools or a regular stationery knife. Process the grooves for the wires and the homemade wood burner itself with a file to give the entire “structure” a rounded shape. Then install the power supply socket with wires on the back of the workpiece, securing everything with epoxy or superglue. Rewind the connection points between the wires and the connector with electrical tape.

Next, connect the ends of the wires and the protruding metal pins that were made from nails. For greater reliability and good electrical contact, it is better to solder the places where the wires come into contact with the nails. Then install connecting terminals on the free ends of the pins and secure them with screws. Bottom part Also rewind the “holder” with electrical tape. It is best to use a medical needle as a working heating element for a simple burner. Using a pin, carefully grind off its central part so that it heats up in this place. Cut off the plastic cap from the syringe needle, which is located at the base, and the sharp end with wire cutters.

At the last stage of the work, all that remains is to give the metal blank from a medical needle the shape of a bracket or loop (by analogy with a lavalier-type pyrograph) and fix the two free ends in the connecting terminals. For power source, use a power adapter with similar characteristics:

— Input: 100–240 V;
— Output: 5 V = 3A.

Connect the charger to the connector on the handle and then you can start drawing. This is how you make a mini wood burner with your own hands at home. Instead of a medical needle, you can use nichrome wire. You can also consider alternative ways production of household pyrographs.

DIY USB wood burner

An unusual version of the electric pyrograph for burning is a device with a USB cable. To make it, you will need the following materials:
— USB cable at least 1.5 meters long;
— special heat-shrinkable tube;
— pliers, pliers and a stationery knife;
- a simple graphite pencil;
— syringe needles, strong threads and superglue.

Using a regular utility knife, make small slits (indentations) in the bottom of the pencil. Bend the medical needles from the syringe into the letter “G” and glue them to the hewn part of the pencil (on both sides), then rewind it well with thread. Connect the ends of the needles to the red and black wires (plus and minus) of the USB cable. Bend the protruding parts of the needles with pliers so that they lie along the pencil and put them on heat shrink tube. Heat it with a lighter until it completely shrinks onto the future handle-holder of the burning device.

Bend the sharp edges of the needles so that they touch each other. At this point, the process of assembling an electric pyrograph with a USB cable can be considered complete. As you can see, even without special skills and experience, you can make a simple burner yourself. But it’s better not to connect it directly to the computer, since you risk “burning” the motherboard - use adapters with a step-down transformer and a power plug for this.