Red bridge. Red Bridge. Option #2 - screw piles

A decorative bridge will make your summer cottage unique and inimitable. The presence of a small reservoir or river is not a prerequisite for its construction. If desired, a bridge can be placed over a small ravine and even a flower bed. The structure will fit perfectly into the plant composition, highlight the advantages of the site and hide its shortcomings. You can order a bridge to your liking at website manufacturer.

Requirements for a decorative bridge

1. The structure fits harmoniously into the overall concept against the background of the house and garden, and does not look like a foreign structure.
2. Don't forget about functionality. Carefully consider the location of the bridge. Excessive curvature will only do harm. In this case, it will be perceived as a difficult obstacle to overcome.
3. Sturdy construction that can support several people. The surface of the bridge is non-slip; if possible, install railings for greater safety.

Material selection

1. Tree
The most common material. The following qualities allowed us to gain popularity:
— affordable price;
- ease of processing. Even for those who have not previously engaged in carpentry, with due attention and diligence, it will not be difficult to realize their plans.
As a rule, preference is given to coniferous wood. The most accessible is pine. Its trunk is even and smooth, has no large quantity knots. The material is characterized by resistance to decay and good mechanical properties.
2. Wrought iron garden bridge
Order from your nearest blacksmith shop. Experienced specialists will create a unique atmospheric bridge that will decorate any area.
3. Stone
If all construction techniques are followed, the product is practically eternal. Compared to other materials, stone can withstand significantly greater loads and also has increased stability to water erosion and high humidity. Has a number of disadvantages:
- the construction of a stone bridge will require experience in construction work;
— installation at the planned location will require calling in special equipment, since the product is extremely heavy;
— high price on the material and its processing.
4. Bamboo
An ideal choice for lovers of oriental culture. Due to the high cost, the material is not available to everyone. The best option is to use bamboo in the decoration of the structure. For greater immersion in the oriental atmosphere, it is recommended to install a stone Japanese lantern next to the bamboo bridge.

Bridge shape

1. Straight
Simplicity and reliability. As a rule, they are made of wood and concrete.
2. Arched
One of the most popular options. The recommended width of the structure is 2 m with a bend of no more than 20 degrees.
3. Step by step
A budget option. When erecting a structure, large stones or slabs are laid out at a distance of at least a meter.
4. Hanging
The safety of the structure is based on a solid foundation and strong cables on which the deck is laid.
5. Zigzag
According to Japanese folk beliefs, spirits who returned to the world of the living moved only in a straight line. And such bridges were created to protect against spirits.

We continue the theme of colored bridges in St. Petersburg) The Red Bridge connects the Kazan and 2nd Admiralty Islands across the Moika River.

The colored bridges of St. Petersburg led across the Moika River. Due to the fact that the bridges were close to each other and very similar in appearance, city residents often confused them. The bridges were painted different colors and were named: Green Bridge (until 1918 - Police Bridge), Red Bridge, Blue Bridge, Yellow Bridge (now Pevchesky Bridge). The bridges have painted railings and the lower “water” part. Currently, only three bridges have retained their former name, and they are no longer brightly colored, but have calmer colors.

The Red Bridge marks the border between the Admiralteysky and Central districts of St. Petersburg. This is the only cast iron bridge across the Moika of the bridges built according to standard project V. I. Geste, who has preserved the historical appearance. Experts note that the simple and at the same time elegant design of the bridge, which is distinguished by a successful architectural composition and elegant proportions, adorns the city landscape, organically combining with the general background of the embankment.

Since 1717 there has been a wooden drawbridge. In 1737, the crossing was rebuilt according to the design of G. van Boles. The bridge was built with a narrow gap in the middle to allow mast ships to pass through. This gap was about 70 cm wide, and was closed with removable shields for passage. At the end of the 18th century, the bridge was rebuilt and became three-span. In 1808-1811 and 1813-1814, the bridge was replaced by a standard single-span, cast-iron, arched bridge with a hingeless vault designed by engineer V. I. Geste. The cast iron tubings of the bridge were manufactured at the Ural factories of N. N. Demidov.

The stone supports of the bridge are made of rubble masonry with granite cladding. As a railing Red Bridge A cast iron grate was used, repeating the pattern of the embankment fence. This bridge also had a simple metal fence on granite pedestals, which separates the sidewalks from the roadway. To illuminate the bridge, granite obelisks were placed on which lanterns were suspended.

In 1953-1954, the cast iron structures were replaced with steel arched ones; during the work, the appearance of the bridge was preserved.

Another restoration was carried out in 1998 Red Bridge. Work was carried out to repair the lanterns, and the cast iron and granite fences were recreated.

The Red Bridge is a historical and architectural monument of federal significance. It is the only one of the four “colored” bridges across the Moika, built according to the standard design of the architect William (Vasily Ivanovich) Geste (1753-1832), preserved in its original form today. By the way, the Red Bridge is unique not only for the preservation of its architecture, but also for its “colored” name. The remaining colored bridges of the Moika have lost their original appearance, and one of them has been renamed: the Yellow Bridge is now Pevchesky. The Blue and Green Bridges, along with the Red Bridge, retained their name, but, unfortunately, their original architecture was lost. Today, the lower “water” part and railings of the bridges are painted.

The very fact of the appearance of “colored” bridges is curious. The fact is that four such bridges of the same type were built across the Moika in St. Petersburg. They were located close to each other and residents often confused them. It was decided to eliminate this inconvenience with the help of color.

The Red Bridge connects the 2nd Admiralteysky and Kazan Islands and is the border between the Admiralteysky and Central districts of St. Petersburg. Red – pedestrian and automobile bridge; the type of construction is single-span, made of double-hinged welded arches (with a steel arched main span). Its total length today is 42 meters, the width between the railings is 16.8 meters.

Initially, the bridge on the Moika appeared in 1717 and, oddly enough, it was called White. It was a wooden drawbridge, painted White color. This is where its name comes from.

The bridge was rebuilt in 1737 according to the design of the Dutch engineer Herman van Boles. In order to allow mast ships to pass under the bridge, a 70 cm wide gap was built in one of the spans, which, if necessary, was closed with removable shields. In 1778, the bridge was repainted and, in accordance with the new colors, renamed Red. During the next reconstruction at the end of the 18th century, the bridge became three-span.

During the reconstruction of 1808-1814, according to the design of engineer William Geste, the bridge became cast iron, single-span, and had an arched structure with a hingeless vault. New cast iron bridge structures were made at Demidov's factories in the Urals. The stone bridge supports are lined with granite. For the railings, a cast-iron grate is used, the pattern of which repeats the pattern of the metal fence of the embankment. The lighting of the bridge was also changed: obelisks made of granite were installed with tetrahedral lanterns suspended on them. metal brackets. Today, the obelisks with lanterns have been restored and have their original appearance, and the bridge railings separating roadway from the sidewalk, have not been reconstructed and have been preserved from previous times.

Between 1953 and 1954 The cast iron structures of the Red Bridge were replaced with arched steel ones (designed by engineer V. Blazhevich): made of seven metal double-hinged arches interconnected cross beams and longitudinal connections, was completed superstructure bridge. At the same time, the appearance of the bridge is completely preserved. At the same time, under the leadership of the architect, member of the Union of Architects of the USSR, Alexander Lukich Rotach (1893-1990), the granite obelisks of the Red Bridge were recreated in their original form; between sidewalks and roadway Ancient cast-iron railings of the same type as the railings of the Moika River embankment adjacent to the bridge were restored. The bridge facades are traditionally red.

The next restoration of the bridge, during which the lanterns were repaired and the cast iron and granite fencing was reconstructed, was carried out in 1998.

Every fisherman knows about the problem of frequently approaching an already baited place and fishing for big fish through reeds and ordinary shallow water. The solution to this type of difficulty is either a very large bag of equipment (wading boots, machete, scythe, etc.), or a simple structure of a fishing bridge. Agree that it is much more pleasant to stand on a flat and dry surface than waist-deep in water and soaked in mud.

You can find out how to do the repairs yourself correctly and quickly on the website http://domiremont.com.

Building a bridge on a lake will not be difficult. The main parameters are to make a platform of sufficient size and one that can withstand your weight. And without this, you, in advance, before baiting, go to the shore with materials for construction. Necessary components: 2-4 wooden beams with a cross-section from 4 cm and a length from 1 to 4 meters (depending on the expected length of the bridge), boards 2/15/150 (t/w/h) from 7 to 27 pieces, fastening components (nails , as well as self-tapping screws) and 2-6 beams with a diameter of 15 cm.
Wood is optimally suited for work, as it is just easier to work with. To begin with, you need to knock down a shield of beams and boards (note: you just need to attach a thin sheet to several thicker ones, in other words, nail the boards to the beam to strengthen the structure). After this, depending on the depth, you can either dig in the beams and attach them to the shield. If the pond is not deep, then you can attach the beams to the shield and install a bridge, and if the depth exceeds 50 cm, then you should dig in the beams for stability, and only after that attach the knocked down shield to them. There is no unique current in the lakes and rates, so there is no point in trying to fix it. For those parts of the bridge that come into contact with water, these types of wood such as larch, oak, or, at worst, simple pine are optimally suited. For buried beams, when the depth is not great, willow, not surprisingly, is excellent, since it can take root and this type of column will not rot until this time.

At the same time, to build a bridge on the river it is necessary to put a little more effort into load-bearing structure. The beams need to be dug in at a depth of 40-80 cm, regardless of the depth of the bank, since the current may well simply demolish your bridge, and don’t forbid the side at the moment of a bite. It is necessary to make tension bars on the dug-in beams, optimally on a cross, for stability.
If wood is difficult to handle, beams are made from metal (pre-treated from rust and repainted with waterproof paint) or only concrete block(It’s true that this would be very difficult for an independent construction, it will last for centuries). And a rather serious factor in the entire design of installing a bridge on a river is that the load-bearing, embedded beams must protrude from the water by at least 30 cm (this will protect the shield itself from the arrival of sufficiently high water).

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Permanent structure

On the one hand, it seems that building a pier is quite easy: you need to fix the supports in the ground, then install the frame and make a ceiling or flooring on top. On the other hand, you should show care and diligence when performing work. The banks of most reservoirs are muddy, overgrown with reeds and other vegetation. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics and characteristics of soils, both under water and on the shore. You should also take into account the nature of the movement of water - is it standing or flowing, and if flowing, then what is the speed of the flow. For example, if it is fast, then it is better to make the pier in the shape of the letter “L”, towards it.

>Another one important point- it is important to take into account the depth of water freezing in winter and the possibility of ice drift during spring snowmelt. Finally, check to see if the water level varies greatly depending on the season and weather. All this information can be found in local administration, regional hydrometeorological center or geological service, and simply from fishermen. However, if a contractor is hired for the work, then with the right approach he himself must collect information.

First, the support piles are securely fastened. Place them at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. The width of the bridge is usually chosen in the same range (if made narrower, it will be uncomfortable to be on it), but the length can be from 1.5 to 5-7 m. More is usually simply not needed. Screw metal piles with a diameter of 10-15 cm, coated with anti-corrosion treatment, are best suited as supports.

Read also: How to make an enclosure for a dog?

The length is selected depending on the depth of the reservoir and the width of the berth. It is important to deepen the supports into the bottom by 0.5-1 m and extend them the same distance above the water level (and the highest according to statistics). It is better to carry out the work in winter, when there is ice on the river, because in order to drive the piles to great depths, a lot of effort will be required. It will not be easy to do this from a boat, since first you need to securely fasten it, and only then deal with the piles.

Screw in the supports manually. In most cases, it is impossible to drive a car close enough to the shore. During the work, the horizontal compliance of the tops of the supports is checked using a level and visually. A slight tilt is allowed, but only towards the shore, due to safety requirements. For this reason, piles must be ordered with a reserve length. After all, the depth and strength of the soil may vary and, perhaps, some of the supports will have to be screwed in more than others.

The piles are tied with steel elements - I-beams or corners. They are strengthened by welding. Flooring is laid on top of the frame, for which boards 3-4 cm thick are most often used. Before laying, it is worth covering them with used machine oil or yacht varnish to avoid rapid rotting. The boards are screwed into pre-drilled holes in the corners.

Floating platform

A pontoon is a structure that rests on floating supports (they are correctly called pontoons). To assemble it yourself, you will need several (four to six) metal or plastic barrels with a volume of 150-200 liters, boards 2-3 cm thick, wooden beams with a cross-section of 5 × 10 cm.

The structure must be assembled close to the shore. First, a frame measuring 2.5 × 2.5-3.5 m is made. The beams for it are fastened with nails or screws 10 cm long, which back side bent with a hammer. Several cross bars are nailed to the main frame.

The barrels are carefully inspected to ensure they are intact and without holes. The threads should be lubricated with silicone, and then the lids should be screwed on carefully. The prepared barrels are placed at the corners of the frame parallel to each other. After this, 4-6 holes are drilled in each container in the upper part and ropes are threaded through them. This is done in such a way as to create a rope “web” that will reliably connect the barrels to each other, as well as to the frame. The second method of strengthening is using mounting tape. In this case, there is no need to drill holes. The third option is to weld to metal barrels“ears” used to secure ropes.

Flooring made of boards is nailed on top of the frame. Then the structure is turned upside down and carried to the water. The platform will be relatively light, but it will definitely support the weight of two or three people. The main thing is to securely attach it to the shore, for example to a pair metal corners, driven into the ground 1 m. In the winter, before ice appears on the water, it is worth pulling the structure ashore.

Ready berths

On sale (in large construction supermarkets or on Internet sites) you can find modular plastic pontoons (made of low-density polyethylene). Among their advantages are the speed of creating a pavement, the absence of corrosion, and the ability to change the configuration in the future. In addition, thanks to the anti-slip pattern, being on the pontoon is safe, and special additives to polyethylene they do not allow it to overheat under the influence of sunlight.

Modules are solid-cast hollow structures ranging in size from 1.5 to 3 m in width and length and 0.3-0.4 m in height. They are connected to each other using special fasteners that come with the structure. The pontoon is held in one place by an anchor with outside and due to ropes near the shore.

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Construction of berths on pile foundations

In Russian villages located along the banks of deep rivers, you can see wooden piers for fishing boats built on pile foundations. Previously, hard wood was used as piles. Most often, larch, oak or alder logs were used. Currently, preference is given to metal piles, which can be driven or screwed. These types of piles differ from each other in structure, as well as in the installation method.

Option #1 - driven piles

Driven piles are made in the form of steel pipes equipped with a pointed tip. These piles are driven into the ground using pile drivers (pile driving machines). This installation method can negatively affect the condition of the metal. The pile can be “driven” and even twisted into a spiral. In the event of such deformation of the metal, the pile will not reach the layer of solid soil, which means it will not be able to be a full-fledged support for the berth being constructed. It is not always possible for special equipment to arrive at the construction site of a berthing structure. Therefore, when constructing a pile foundation with your own hands, they use screw piles.

Option #2 - screw piles

A screw pile, like a driven one, is made of metal pipe. A blade of a certain configuration is welded near its lower cone-shaped end, and at the other end - a head necessary for attaching the base of the future berth. Thanks to this blade-screw, the pile is easily screwed into the bottom soil, without having to exert too much physical effort. During smooth rotation, the screw pile evenly enters the ground. The risk of deformation of the pipe walls is minimal. The length of screw piles can reach 11 m. If necessary, the pipe can be extended or, conversely, cut.

The greater the load the pile must withstand, the larger the diameter of its trunk should be. In this case, the thickness of its walls also matters.

Rules for installation work

Before the beginning installation work it is necessary to calculate the exact number of piles, select the required diameter taking into account the load. Calculate minimum distance between adjacent piles, in which the grillage material will not sag. The length of the piles is selected based on the type of soil and the depth of its freezing in a given area.

After screwing the screw pile to a certain depth, concrete (grade M300 and higher) is poured into the cavity of its shaft. This technique increases the load-bearing capacity of the supporting element. When installing a pile foundation in winter time Special additives are added to the concrete solution. By the way, it is preferable to install piles for the pier in winter. It is much more convenient and cheaper to carry out work on ice than in water. If the soil is heterogeneous in structure, then the piles are installed on different depths, after which they are leveled to a given level.

Screw piles are suitable for repeated use. They can be screwed in, and if it is necessary to dismantle the surface structure, they can be unscrewed. However, it is not recommended to fill the pile shaft with concrete. Screw piles can last for several decades, especially if their surface is treated with a special chemical composition. This means that a pier built on a pile foundation can be used for a long time.

Separate piles are combined into a single structure using a channel welded to their heads. Sometimes as liaison timber is used. All welding seams need to be treated with a special compound based on epoxy resin, enamel or paint. This coating protects seams in humid environments from corrosion.

It is impossible to install a pile foundation on rocky soils. In this case, other options for constructing berths and piers are considered.

Waterproof wood is used as materials used for laying decking on berths and piers valuable species(larch, acacia, ipe, kumaru, garapa, bangirai, massaranduba, merbau). Each type of expensive wood has its own unique color and special texture. Construction can be made cheaper by using modern water-repellent polymer and wood-polymer materials, on the basis of which special deck and terrace boards are made. These materials are ideal for the construction of above-water structures because:

• do not give in to the process of rotting and decomposition from exposure to humidity and precipitation;
• are not subject to deformation because they do not dry out, swell, bend or warp, warp or crack (unlike many types of natural wood);


• capable without loss decorative qualities tolerate significant temperature changes and exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
• have high resistance to abrasion;
• withstand heavy shock loads;
• has a non-slip corrugated surface that allows you to safely move along the pier during or after rain.

Polymer deck boards, used for installing decking on berths and piers, do not require protection with varnishes and oils, which greatly simplifies the maintenance of its surface.

Installation of wooden flooring is carried out using hidden fastener technology. When finishing the finished berth, railings, descents into the water, as well as mooring fenders and other devices necessary for the operation of small vessels are installed.

An example of assembling a simple pontoon pier

For building small pier pontoon type are purchased wooden beam, planed boards, nails, screws, metal corners, 200-liter barrels and ropes for securing them. The square frame of the structure is assembled from timber with a section of 100 by 50 mm on the shore. The side length of the square is 2.5 meters. The frame is reinforced at the corners with additional wooden blocks. The corners of the frame structure must be straight (90 degrees).

The buoyancy of the berth is provided by four 200-liter barrels, previously used for storing petroleum products. The barrels must be absolutely airtight. To ensure this requirement, sealant or silicone is applied around the plugs to prevent water from getting inside the containers. For better fastening of the barrels to the frame structure, use additional bars (50 by 50 mm), which are attached to the main frame using metal corners. Holes are drilled in these bars through which ropes are pulled to securely fasten the barrels located on both sides of the frame, parallel to each other.

Then wooden frame rectangular shape are turned over, with the barrels ending up at the bottom of the structure. In this position, the structure is installed in a reservoir near the shore. An anchor system is used to secure it. You can also tie the structure to a pile screwed into the ground on the shore of a reservoir, or to a pole driven into the ground and concreted. At the last stage, the planed board flooring is nailed to the frame. A small bridge is also being built to provide access to the pier from the shore of the reservoir.

Another option for constructing walkways

Pillars are constructed from used truck tires. To do this, rubber tires are tied to each other with cables or strong ropes. Then the tied tires are rolled into the water and placed on the bottom of the reservoir. Improvised posts should stick out of the water. The stability of the pillars in the water is ensured with the help of river cobblestones thrown inside the tires. Then wooden walkways are installed on the constructed pillars.

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Piles

The first step is to decide on the size of the homemade bridge; if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be uncomfortable to be on it. Next, we move directly to the process. It will be easy to make holes for the piles if the bottom is not rocky. The pile can be replaced with a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm, and depending on its size, a hole can be drilled.

For the pier, it is better to use thick-walled steel pipes, because they can resist corrosion for only a few seasons. Of course, you could replace them with expensive stainless pipes, but there is a high probability that they will be of more use to some thief.

Frame and platform

A steel corner is best suited for making a frame. It will be able to withstand bulky loads, in addition, the shelf of the corner will serve as an additional limiter when fixing the platform (floor).

As a rule, the platform is made from wooden planks. It would not hurt to treat them with machine oil before installation to prevent rotting, which is difficult to avoid due to the proximity to water.

Also, to cover a homemade bridge, you can use, for example, corrugated sheets or PVL sheets, if suddenly these materials were left over after the construction of the dacha. To make the corrugated sheeting not so slippery, you can drill holes with a drill, and so that the PVL does not fall into the holes small parts- put old linoleum. Of course, the fastest way to solve the above problems would be terrace board terraol.

As you can see, not much effort is needed to fully experience the joy of communicating with nature and comfortable conditions fishing.

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Types of berths and their characteristics

All berth structures can currently be classified into types depending on their location and design characteristics:

• embankment overpass– a through-structure structure represented by pile supports or shell piles;
• pier– a structure with a projection into the water area and having two-way or three-way access for ships;
• edging– a structure adjacent at the same elevation to the base structures on the berth;
• raid berth, installed in an open roadstead and suitable for mooring large vessels;
• floating pier- a type of road berth used in the presence of significant fluctuations in water level.

Depending on the design features, four main types of pier can be distinguished:

• gravitational;
• through or pile;
• thin-walled or bolted;
• combined.

The simplest hydraulic structures for fishing or for a boat can be equipped independently. Piers made from a variety of available materials are used in the following ways:

• floating area for barbecue and relaxation;
• catering point on the water;
• berth for catamarans, boats and jet skis;
• fishing raft;
• pontoon catamaran for shallow waters;
• floating bath or sauna;
• area for water activities;
• residential property or cottage.

On rafts, piers and pontoons, made with your own hands, you can sunbathe or dive into the water, transport goods and inspect fish tanks.

How to build a bridge for summer fishing (video)

How to build a simple berthing structure

For homeowners living in close proximity to a river or reservoir, the issue of creating a convenient access to the water is always relevant. Some time ago, for this purpose, walkways or a bridge were built, allowing access to tied boats. Today, preference is given to more serious structures.

Making a floating pier

Unlike a pier, a pier can be located not along the shore, but at the intersection of the water plane at a right angle, with an approach several hundred meters from land. In this case, not only a small vessel, but also a cargo vessel can be moored on both sides of the structure. Quite primitive piers are being built on the lake, located on the same line.

A pontoon or floating pier can be erected in areas of a reservoir that are subject to flooding, but protected from gusty winds. Pontoons are distinguished by their ease and simplicity of assembly, as well as the availability of all necessary documentation. Floating piers are most often metal, plastic or inflatable. The most the best option are floating plastic structures made of elements connected around the perimeter with special fasteners.

A floating pier does not require special maintenance, and if necessary, such a structure can be easily assembled, dismantled and installed in a new location. Modern plastic construction created from HDPE with the addition of special compounds against negative impact sun and sea salt.

Installation floating pier involves the use additional accessories in the form of handrails, gangways and bollards. The cost of various composite plastic modules for creating a floating pier yourself is quite affordable.

Installation of a fishing bridge

A high-quality and durable deck or bridge can be made quite easily yourself. It is very important not only to choose the right location and develop a competent project, but also to securely secure the structure using a log or pile treated with special compounds. Installation is best done in winter period until the ice crust melted.

You can cut holes with a chainsaw, and the diameter of the hole will depend on the diameter of the support. Standard width The bridge should be about one and a half meters, so the distance between the supports should not be more than two meters.

It is optimal to use pipes with sufficiently thick steel walls or stainless steel supports as supports. Wooden support Quite quickly under the influence of water it will lose high strength indicators. Some fishermen advise installing the deck on a base made of plastic pipes, not subject to corrosion and rotting. The frame is made of angle steel that can withstand significant loads.

The flooring is made from wooden boards pre-treated with transformer oil, which will increase service life and prevent rapid rotting. PVL sheets or profile flooring can also be used.

DIY barrel pontoons

Pontoons based on plastic barrels are one of the most inexpensive options. The strength indicators of such a simple structure depend on a properly constructed supporting frame and elements capable of providing a sufficient level of diagonal, longitudinal and transverse rigidity of the structure. Steel, aluminum, wood or plastic can be used to create the frame.

A high level of stability allows you to use a raft-pontoon made from barrels for movement and recreation on the water, and when supplemented with a small boat motor, you can get a self-propelled pontoon.

To create a pontoon, alternative options to plastic barrels are often used:

• Foam pontoons are based on a pair of wooden “skis” filled with foam. This design is ideal for arranging motorized, easily controllable rafts;
• inflatable pontoons from large automobile inner tubes are created on the basis of a frame structure, and one failed inner tube can be easily replaced or sealed even during the rafting process;
• the most popular and budget option is the pontoon option from plastic bottles, with which you need to fill large rubberized bags secured under the raft deck.

Homemade catamaran rafts on plywood pontoons are also in great demand. For production, moisture-resistant plywood sheets impregnated with drying oil 3 mm thick, as well as three-meter wooden slats dimensions 25x25 mm or 25x15 mm. Bicycle parts make it possible to create a rowing drive and wheels for a catamaran.

Features of the construction of piers and berths (video)

Before manufacturing, it is necessary to perform simple calculations on the total load capacity, which includes the buoyancy indicators of all float elements. For example, if plastic barrel can keep 120 kg of weight afloat, then for a lifting capacity of 1.2 tons you will need to use at least ten barrels. The optimal reserve of buoyancy indicators is equal to 20-30% of the calculations performed.

What you need to consider when building a small pier for a boat or boat

The coastal zone of the reservoir, equipped with special equipment for mooring, carrying out repair work and maintenance is called a berth. If until recently hardwood was used to create a pile foundation, today metal driven and screw piles are most often used, differing in structure and installation method:

• driven piles, presented steel pipes with a sharp tip, are buried using pile driving machines, which often negatively affects the condition metal structure. Such supports are used for self-made berths are extremely rare, due to the need to use special equipment;
• screw metal piles have a lower cone-shaped end with a welded blade and a head to which the base of the manufactured berth is attached. The screw blade is screwed into the ground quite easily and evenly, which reduces the risk of deformation metal support minimal.

The diameter of the shaft and the wall thickness of the piles depend on the level of expected load. A concrete solution must be poured into the cavity of the screwed-in piles, which increases load-bearing capacity supports. The cost of the material used for construction can be reduced by purchasing modern polymers with high water-repellent characteristics.

The surface structure made of such building material is characterized by the following quality characteristics:

• absence of decay processes as a result of exposure high level humidity;
• absence of deformation and cracking as a result of drying out;
• no loss of decorative effect under the influence of temperature changes;
• increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads;
• the presence of a non-slip corrugated surface.

Polymer deck boards used in the installation of decking do not require protection with varnishes and oil, which makes maintenance simple and affordable.

Decorative descent to a pond near the site

On summer cottages, located near rivers or lakes, decorative metal structures of the platform can also be equipped. In this case, channels No. 12 are most often used as supports. The platform covering and steps are most often made of corrugated steel, and the treads are made of several reinforcing bars. For ease of descent and ascent, you need to install railings. Tikkurila berth paint is used for painting.

Gorokhovaya Street crosses the three largest (not counting the Neva) water arteries of St. Petersburg - the Moika River, the Griboyedov Canal and the Fontanka River. The bridges across them, located on the street, are interesting both for their history and as architectural monuments.

If you walk along Gorokhovaya from the Alexander Garden, the first thing you come across is the Red Bridge over the Moika - one of four “colored” bridges spanning this river. In addition to Red, there are also Green, Blue and Yellow (Pevchesky) bridges.

History of the bridge

The first crossings across the Moika were built wooden, as, indeed, across other rivers and canals of the city. In the first quarter of the 18th century, the Red Bridge was a drawbridge, rebuilt in 1837 according to the design of the Dutch architect Harman van Bolos, it had quite original design. Its peculiarity was that the bridge did not open or rise, and the wide opening in the middle, left for the passage of mast ships, was blocked with wooden shields.

Before late XVIII centuries, the bridge was painted white and it was called White. But then the crossing changed color and, accordingly, its name.

IN early XIX century, the bridges on the Moika were rebuilt according to the standard design of William Geste, and the Red Bridge is the only one that has preserved its appearance from that time. After reconstruction, the bridge became single-span and cast iron. Most of the parts of its design were made at the Ural factories of Nikolai Nikitovich Demidov. The Red Bridge is 42 meters long and 16.8 meters wide.

Granite obelisks, decorated with gilded balls and brackets for lanterns, and a cast-iron lattice, the pattern of which repeats the embankment fencing, have survived to this day.

By the middle of the 20th century, the structure of the bridge was fairly worn out, cracks appeared on the walls of the cast-iron tubes, and in 1954 work was carried out on its restoration. All cast iron parts were replaced with steel ones, but the appearance was left unchanged, and even some lost decorative elements and granite obelisks with lanterns and bronze balls were restored.