home · Networks · Is it possible to fasten soft tiles with self-tapping screws? Lathing for soft roofing: single-layer and two-layer solid structures. Video: sheathing for soft tiles

Is it possible to fasten soft tiles with self-tapping screws? Lathing for soft roofing: single-layer and two-layer solid structures. Video: sheathing for soft tiles

List of common mistakes and frequently encountered problems when installing flexible tiles

1. Laying bitumen shingles on a roof with a slope less than the maximum permissible

Such cases are characterized by frequent occurrence of leaks. They occur due to increased rain and wind loads on the joints of the shingles.

2. The length of the roofing nails is less than the thickness of the wooden base

Short nails that do not penetrate through the boardwalk gradually come out due to the natural deformation of wood under the influence of humidity and temperature.

3. Fastening with staples

soft material, so some believe that it can be attached to the slope using a construction stapler. However, this tool is not suitable for this operation. The depth and uniformity of driving staples will depend on the hardness and uniformity of the layers of wood, which can differ significantly in different areas. Because of this, according to the experience of Stroymet engineers, it is impossible to ensure a tight, uniform fit of the tiles to the base.

4. Low level of ventilation of the under-roof space

Accumulation of water vapor and condensation on wood and metal structures leads to their gradual destruction.

5. No vapor barrier

Causes moisture to enter other elements roofing pie, significantly worsening their performance characteristics.

6. Laying a solid base is done without gaps

Due to the swelling of wood in wet weather, the surface of the flooring becomes uneven and can be damaged. This not only reduces the level of tightness flexible tiles and roofs in general, but also deteriorates appearance roofs.

7. Shingles will not stick to underlayment or valley carpet.

This causes serious leaks of flexible tiles during rains and during snow melting.

8. The solid base is made of boards or sheet materials of insufficient thickness. There are no supports under the joint lines of the boards

It is dangerous to move along the slope; the base may not support the weight of workers installing flexible tiles, as well as the snow load.

9. Leaky connections to vertical elements (for example, chimneys)

Lead to regular occurrence of leaks.

10. The shingles are fixed roofing nails along the top edge

This prevents the fastener from reaching the previous shingle below. The joint area becomes especially vulnerable to wind loads.

Common misconceptions when installing soft roofs

  • Roofing nails should not be pierced wooden base through.
  • A solid base should be installed without gaps.
  • For normal ventilation of the under-roof space, the gaps in the eaves overhang area are sufficient.
  • Application vapor barrier materials when installing a soft roof is not mandatory.
  • Soft roofing can be used on roofs with any slope.

ALL OF THE STATEMENTS LISTED ARE ERRORAL!

Installation of soft bitumen shingles must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Inattentive Study technical documentation, mistakes when choosing materials for the roofing pie, haste and the desire to save money lead to various problems, including: leaks, visual defects, and reduced service life of the coating.

Knowing the most common mistakes will help you avoid unforeseen situations and serious costs for urgent repairs.

    Use of wet lumber. During the operation of the house, the board used for sheathing dries out and becomes deformed. The slope becomes uneven, which leads to shingles peeling off, water flowing in, and reduced resistance to wind loads. For this you need to use edged softwood boards with a moisture content of no more than 20%.

    Laying OSB without gaps. This leads to deformation soft tiles in places where OSB sheets join and the formation of elevations that spoil the appearance of the roof. Compensation gaps prevent the sheets from pressing against each other as the temperature rises or humidity increases. The installation instructions say: “a gap of 2-3 mm should be left between the OSB sheets.”

    Improper storage of underlay carpet. Bends and folds, dents and creases form on the material. As a result, the laid underlay carpet loses its ideal surface geometry. becomes more complex, it becomes more difficult to select a pattern, on the surface finished roof waves are formed. The lining carpet should be stored in vertical position at normal humidity and temperature not higher than +30ºС.

    Laying underlay carpet at low temperatures. As the temperature rises, a natural change in linear dimensions occurs OSB sheets. This leads to the formation of waves on the roof made of flexible tiles. The defect is more cosmetic and may go away over time. But is it worth the risk? Manufacturers recommend at a temperature not lower than +5ºС.

    Error in selection of material: thick carpet, thin tiles. This combination “reveals” all the shortcomings and flaws in the installation of the base and underlayment. Irregularities and waves appear, resulting in a decrease in the resistance of the coating to wind and mechanical loads. It is better to use soft tiles and carpet from the same manufacturer, and the thickness of the tiles should be greater.

    Errors when installing wind slats. These provide a tight connection between the roof and gables of the building. Not correct installation leads to water flowing under the tiles and into. The pediment planks begin to be laid from the eaves, making an overlap between adjacent elements of at least 5 cm. The planks are nailed with roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern.

    Use fewer nails for fastening or nails without notches. Saving on fastening elements or using nails not intended for fixing the roof leads to a decrease in the reliability of the roof. In this case, the shingles are easily torn off by strong winds. For installation of soft tiles, 25-30 mm long with a wide head are used. There are 4 - 6 nails per shingle (depending on the angle of the roof).

    Installation without using markings. Laying shingles “by eye” leads to the formation of a crooked pattern. The markings play the role of guides; horizontal lines are applied using construction laces or using a stretched rope.

    Use shingles from only one pack. This leads to the formation of a “zebra effect”, which will negatively affect the appearance of the roof. Manufacturers recommend taking one shingle from 5-6 different packs to avoid variations in color.

    Installation in hot weather. At temperatures above +25ºС, the bitumen in the flexible tiles softens. This makes it difficult to move on already installed shingles, and there is a risk of damaging the shingles with shoes. Roofing It is better to carry out at a temperature of +5 - +20ºС in dry weather.

Natural tiles

When choosing a roof, many buyers decide in favor of one type of covering or another, guided not so much by considerations of practicality and durability, but by simplicity and ease of installation. It has long been noted that the developer is willing to pay more if he is confident that he can carry out the installation work himself, because this will save him money. Many buyers believe that the technology for laying flexible tiles is too complicated, and only specialists can install them correctly.

Let's look at all stages of work - from preparatory measures to the moment when the soft tiles will lie on your roof, pleasing the eye with a beautiful aesthetic appearance. You can make sure that the execution installation work Can be done by any person. And exact adherence to all stages guarantees high quality results and durability of the coating.

Preparatory stage - creating an under-roof “pie”

First of all, it is worth installing a reliable rafter system - it will have to bear the entire weight of the roof. It is important to use strong, dry timber, since damp timber is subject to deformation - it can “lead”, and then the plane of the rafter system will be disrupted. Don't forget to process everyone wooden parts special compounds to protect against rot and pests, as well as to increase fire resistance.

Slats are placed perpendicular to the rafters along the entire perimeter. They need to be fastened taking into account the size of the insulation used - it is necessary that it holds and does not fall inside.

After stuffing the slats, it is attached vapor barrier film. The easiest way to fix it is with a construction stapler - this speeds up the process many times, and the quality of fastening is superior to all other methods. The film is connected to each other with special tape, which ensures reliable fastening and resistance to moisture.

The next stage is laying insulation. It won't cause any problems because thermal insulation mats simply placed on the bars. The main thing is to leave 1-2 cm to the top edge of the rafters. This distance is necessary to create ventilation space.

Outside, moisture- and windproof film. The easiest way to do this is with a construction stapler. During the installation process, be sure to ensure that the film is not stretched, but is secured with a slight sag between the rafters. The integrity of the cover is achieved by overlapping the film layers, which should be 15 cm.

The last counterbeam is attached in front of the sheathing. It is designed to form a ventilation cavity that ensures air movement and unhindered evaporation of excess moisture.

Continuous sheathing device

The counter grille is designed to provide high-quality ventilation. Don’t forget about the holes for the chimney, ventilation pipes and so on. To improve ventilation, holes are equipped in the upper part into which they are inserted. special devices- aerators. They remove air and prevent moisture from getting under the roof.

The sheathing can be made from various materials- dry edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood, oriented strand board. They all have their own characteristics, and you can choose which option is optimal for your roof:

Soft roof production technology

  • The board is the most accessible. If your choice falls on this material, when purchasing, pay attention to the geometry of the boards - they should all be the same thickness with a flat surface. To avoid deformation of the sheathing, manufacturers recommend using material with a moisture content of no more than 20%. With a normal rafter spacing, the thickness of the board should be at least 25 mm, and it increases with increasing distance between the rafters. Some experts recommend in any case using a board with a thickness of 32-40 mm. It is less prone to bending and does not split when driven large quantity nails
  • Moisture-resistant plywood is very similar to regular plywood - the same several layers of wood glued together. The only difference is that this type of plywood is treated with a moisture-proofing compound. The use of this material allows you to quickly make flat surface- due to the size of the sheets work in progress much faster than with boards. Disadvantages of the material include susceptibility to splitting if nails get into the edge of the sheet. Also, wood loses its moisture-resistant properties over time, and temperature changes in the ventilation cavity can damage the lower part of the plywood. The thickness of the material depends on the width of the rafter system. Its minimum value is 9 mm.
  • Oriented strand board is the strongest substrate listed. It is a slab consisting of elongated chips laid in different directions, pressed and glued together high blood pressure. The resin with which the boards are impregnated provides them with very high resistance to moisture. The sheets are stable, not afraid of changes in humidity and do not crack from nails. Their thickness depends on the distance between the rafters and can range from 9 to 20 mm. It should be remembered that it is better to purchase material a little thicker than necessary.

Optimal conditions for laying soft roofs

The laying technology involves installing soft tiles with certain temperature. This is due to the fact that it contains flexible roofing There is bitumen that should stick to the bottom strip. This ensures the reliability of the coating. There are often cases when the wind lifted the petals due to their poor adhesion to each other.

The temperature must exceed +10 degrees. If installation has to be carried out at low temperatures, we recommend installing heaters in the attic and heating the shingles outside with a hair dryer. After this, it will not be superfluous to warm up the already attached sheets.

Installation of underlay carpet

Installation of roofing pie with flexible tiles

Underlayment performs many functions - from leveling the surface so that shingles lie as flat as possible, to strengthening the most difficult areas. This is necessary to prevent damage to the base coating and increase its durability. At first, when the tiles have not yet completely stuck together, the carpet will become reliable protection from leaks.

If your roof has a valley, you need to start installing the underlayment from there. The lining is located along the entire bend and is attached. Next, the carpet begins to be laid over the entire roof.

If the roof slope is over 18 degrees, installing a continuous carpet under the flexible tiles is not necessary - it is enough to just treat all difficult areas and attach the covering around the perimeter.

The technology is very simple. Installation is carried out from below, and the type of fastening depends on the type of lining (it can be self-adhesive or require glue and nails). The overlap of sheets should be 100 mm. The edge of the cornice is covered with a metal cornice strip, which is secured with nails or self-tapping screws. It also covers the ends of the gables.

All connections must be carefully secured and, if necessary, treated with bitumen glue, especially various junctions and bends.

Installation of roofing sheets

After all the preparatory activities, the time has come for the main stage - laying flexible tiles. The base sheets, called shingles, should be taken from several packages during installation. This is necessary because the shades may vary slightly in different packages, and to avoid pronounced dark or light spots on the roof, it is better to stack the sheets interspersed. One way or another, after a short time, under the influence of the sun, the color of the roof evens out.

Installation of shingles begins from the middle of the bottom on a pre-laid row cornice- ridge tiles. In this case, it is necessary to control that the petals of the row covering cover the perforations of the cornice row. Each sheet is nailed with four galvanized nails. And do not forget to remove the protective film from the bottom of the element to ensure its secure adhesion. To avoid curvature, it is recommended to mark rows of tiles along the entire roof - this will allow for perfectly even installation.

Installation at junctions

Bituminous shingles

According to statistics, leaks most often occur at the junction of the soft roof with chimneys and ventilation outlets. Close attention is paid to them even when installing the lining carpet. In particular, a triangular strip should be strengthened around the chimney and the lining should be placed on it, secured with nails and high-strength bitumen glue. It also lubricates the overlaps on top. Ventilation outlets of small diameters are much easier to bypass - special rubber O-rings are sold for them. The attachment point is lubricated with bitumen glue, and a hole of the required shape is cut out in the shingle, after which it is seated on the glue.

Around the chimney, laying flexible tiles is carried out as follows. The edges of the sheets are placed on the pipe just above the rail and glued with high-strength glue. When the shingles are fixed, you can begin the final stage of arranging the chimney. To do this, sheets of valley carpet are taken and glued at the joint in the following ratio - 20 cm to the roof surface, 30 cm to the chimney surface. They should be glued very carefully, avoiding incomplete gluing of the sheets.

The top end of the carpet must be covered with a metal apron or flashing, which is inserted into a groove cut into the chimney. It is completely filled with weatherproof silicone sealant, providing good protection for a long time.

Final installation details

Prestige Traditional

When the tiles have already been laid, the sheets are glued evenly and neatly cover the nails, you can begin installing the last part - the ridge. For this, ridge-eaves sheets are used, which must be separated into two parts along the perforation line. After this it is removed protective tape, and the sheet is laid on the ridge so that the short side is located along the ridge. The nailed parts are covered with the following sheets. Each part is nailed with 4 nails. In this case, the overlap width must be at least 5 cm to ensure the necessary strength and resistance to wind.

Sometimes it may be necessary to fix some sheets of soft tiles with strips in order to securely glue them. And after some time the planks are removed.

Conclusion

As you can see, the technology for installing a soft roof is quite simple. And most importantly, all the work can be done on your own, because this does not require any special tool. Most operations are carried out with a hammer or screwdriver. If rafter system already installed, the work can be done by two people.

There can be no trifles in construction. At the very beginning, you need to take care of high-quality building materials so that the building will last long years without repair. Roof installation must be carried out using reliable self-tapping screws. Yes, such, as it may seem at first glance, an insignificant detail like screws can turn out to be almost main reason reducing the service life of the roof. Therefore, if there is no great desire and money to carry out major roof repairs every two years, you should choose high-quality self-tapping screws.

How to choose high-quality self-tapping screws for roof installation?

The structure of the self-tapping screws is designed in such a way that they can easily penetrate into durable material roof and attach well to the sheathing. To prevent the fastener from corroding, it must be coated with a special protective covering. Typically, zinc is used for this purpose. It is applied using a special galvanic method, ensuring good adhesion material. There are some other signs of high-quality self-tapping screws that you should pay attention to when purchasing:

On top part The self-tapping screw must be marked with a certain marking, in other words: a stamp.

The washer should be tightly connected to the head of the screw. It is better not to choose hardware to which the washer does not fit tightly.

What types of screws can be used for roof installation?

For various types roofing, it is necessary to use certain types of screws:

  • to secure the sheets of metal tiles together you will need 4.8*20 mm self-tapping screws;
  • to secure metal coating Self-tapping screws 4.8 * 28 and 35 mm are required;
  • To secure additional elements, longer hardware of 50 and 70 mm is required.

The strongest self-tapping screws for roofing are zinc-plated hexagons (the head must be painted). A high-quality self-tapping screw should serve for at least 50 years; the roof is designed for the same operational period.

IN foreign countries For many years, flexible tiles have occupied a leading position among roofing materials used in the construction of private houses. It began to gain popularity here relatively recently. This material can be used to cover pitched roofs of any configuration. This is due to its ease of installation, light weight, durability and aesthetic appearance. Flexible tiles can be installed with your own hands, but although this is a simple process, there are certain nuances and features that you need to become familiar with before starting work.

Preparing the roof for installation of flexible tiles

Installation of flexible tiles can be carried out at temperatures environment more than 5 o C. This is due to the fact that, in addition to metal fasteners, its elements are connected to each other using a self-adhesive layer. At low temperatures, this layer will not warm up enough, so the necessary adhesion and tightness of the coating will not be obtained.

When the weather is cool outside, only use solar heat is not enough, so you additionally need to use a hair dryer. In addition, at low temperatures, the flexibility of bitumen shingles decreases, it becomes more fragile and it can be quite difficult to give the sheets the required shape.

Installation of the base for flexible tiles

Forming a base for flexible tiles consists of several stages:

  1. Installation vapor barrier membrane. It is laid with a slight sag (2–4 cm) and with an overlap between the strips of at least 100 mm. At the junction, the canvases are glued together with double-sided tape.

    The vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the rafter joists from the side of the room and laid without tension (sagging of 2–4 cm is allowed)

  2. Laying thermal insulation. Plates or rolls of insulation are laid between the rafters so that they fit there with a noticeable tension. To do this, the elements of the insulating layer are cut 5–10 cm wider than the distance between the rafter joists.

    Plates or rolls of insulation are cut to a size slightly larger than the pitch between the rafters, so when they are laid there are no gaps or voids left

  3. Installation of a waterproofing layer. To protect from moisture and wind, lay on top of the insulation waterproofing membrane, pre-fixing it with furniture staples.
  4. Installation of counter-lattice. Bars with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50 mm are stuffed on top, orienting them along the rafters. The counter grille additionally secures waterproofing film and at the same time creates a ventilated gap necessary to remove condensation from the under-roof space.
  5. Installation of continuous sheathing. For these purposes, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are used, OSB boards or boards with a cross-section of at least 20x100 mm, laid in increments of 3–5 mm.

    When creating a continuous sheathing, small gaps are left between the sheets to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood materials

Before carrying out work, everything wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic to protect them from rot, mold and insects.

In order to properly install soft tiles, you need to make a flat and continuous base. To create it, whenever possible, you need to use boards or slabs of the same thickness or use special linings, carefully monitoring the evenness outer surface. When creating the sheathing, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 18–20%.

The sheet material is laid so that its long side is parallel to the cornice. When boards are used, their length should be such as to span at least two purlins. The joining of all sheathing elements is carried out only on the rafter legs.

When temperature and humidity change, wooden elements change their size, so small expansion joints must be left between them.

When creating a roofing pie under flexible tiles, you need to take care of good ventilation, so a gap of 5 or more centimeters high is created between the coating and the waterproofing film. If everything is done correctly, then less heat from the house will be transferred to the roofing material, so the formation of condensation and, accordingly, ice on it will be reduced. In summer, the ventilation gap will not allow the under-roof space to heat up too much. For air circulation, holes are left in the overhang lining and an exhaust duct is made in the ridge.

Counter-lattice bars laid along the rafter joists over the waterproofing coating are responsible for the ventilation of the under-roof space.

Installation of lining material

Flexible tiles can be used on pitched roofs with an inclination angle of more than 12 o. It should only be laid on special lining material:

  • if the slope angle does not exceed 30 o, backing layer settles over the entire surface;
  • if the slope is steeper, then the lining is laid only along the cornice, near the pipes, at junctions with the wall and in the valleys. This is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing in these places, since snow and ice accumulate most of all there.

On roofs with a slope of less than 30 degrees, strips of lining material are laid parallel to the eaves with an overlap of at least 100 mm

Different lining materials can be used, so the method of installation will vary.

  1. The composite material, consisting of a film and bitumen filler, is laid on a self-adhesive layer, so it is enough to spread it on the base and roll it with a roller.
  2. The polyester lining carpet is fixed with bitumen mastic, and additionally secured on top and on the sides with special nails with wide and flat heads with a pitch of 200 mm.

The canvases are laid along the roof eaves with a longitudinal overlap of at least 10 cm and a transverse overlap of at least 20 cm. The technology for laying the lining material provides for a certain width in different places:

  • from the center of the valley - 50 cm on each side;
  • from the ridge - 25 cm in both directions;
  • from the end and cornice strip- at least 40 cm.

To ensure maximum tightness in areas of overlap, the lining is additionally coated bitumen mastic.

Methods for installing flexible tiles

Fixing a soft roof can be done using various fasteners, it all depends on the type of roof base.

Fastening with roofing nails is the most common method and is used when the base is made of moisture-resistant plywood, boards or OSB. If the under-roof space is insulated, the tips of the nails will be hidden, so the possibility of injury while in the attic is eliminated. In this way you can attach starter, row and ridge tiles, as well as underlay carpet and additional elements.

Roofing nails must be driven strictly perpendicular to the surface of the flexible tiles

Installation of flexible tiles is carried out using nails 25–40 cm long with a head diameter of 8 to 12 mm. It is recommended to use galvanized nails rather than ordinary steel ones, as they have a significantly longer service life. They are hammered in strictly perpendicular to the sheathing, the cap should be adjacent to the tile. It's bad when the cap is recessed into roofing material, and it’s not good if there is a gap between it and the soft tiles.

For installation of flexible tiles and all additional elements per 100 square meters the roof will need 10 kg of nails.

To hammer nails, you can use a nailer - a pneumatic nailing hammer. It may have a drum or rack and pinion design. Nickel-plated nails are used and they also have a wide head.

The use of an automatic nailer (nailer) significantly speeds up the process of fastening the roof covering

Self-tapping screws with press washers

Roofing screws are not as common an option for soft roofing as nails, but in some cases there is no alternative. They are used for fixing flexible tiles to a laminated plywood base. In this case, the plywood also acts as interior decoration attic. Typically this method is used when creating a roof on a terrace or gazebo. You cannot use nails, as they are difficult to drive into this material - they can destroy it.

Using self-tapping screws, the tiles are usually attached to a laminated base on a gazebo or terrace, where it also acts as an interior decoration

When choosing self-tapping screws, it is necessary to take into account that their length should be slightly less than the thickness of the plywood. Self-tapping screws with press washers should also be used when the base is made of thin boards, since nails can split them.

Staples

It is recommended to use staples in the same cases as self-tapping screws, but you should keep in mind that they do not fit well into a laminated surface. This option is suitable for installing tiles on a gazebo, canopy or doghouse, but it is better not to use it for the main building, since it is not a very reliable fastening.

It is not recommended to fasten flexible tiles using staples on a residential building, since this method does not provide a sufficient degree of reliability

Fusing with a construction hairdryer is used in cases where nails or self-tapping screws cannot be used. Typically, such installation of a soft roof is used when covering forged canopies or other surfaces, when a sheet of metal or thin plywood. A construction hair dryer can only be used for those flexible tiles that have a self-adhesive base.

A construction hair dryer can only be used to attach tiles that have a self-adhesive base.

Installation of flexible tiles using construction hair dryer is a complex and time-consuming process that requires professional skills and experience.

Tool for installing shingle roofs

Before you can begin work, you need to purchase everything necessary materials and tools:

  • starting, row and ridge elements;
  • lining;
  • mastic;
  • putty knife;
  • sealant;
  • fastening elements: nails, screws or staples;
  • metal scissors for cutting additional elements;
  • cornice and pediment strips;
  • valley carpet;
  • roofing knife for cutting flexible tiles;
  • measuring instruments;
  • tapping cord or chalk;
  • construction hairdryer

Before starting work, you need to make sure that all materials are compatible and have the same shade.

Gaunts ( individual elements soft tiles) have small size, therefore, when laying them on the base, there is a high probability of doing it unevenly. To avoid such errors, you must first mark the surface on which the flexible tiles will be mounted:

  • using a level and chalk, draw vertical lines along the edges of the roof surface in increments of 1 m;
  • horizontal lines are made in increments of 70 cm, they must be perpendicular to the vertical ones.

The laying scheme is as follows:

  1. According to the developed technology, installation of a soft roof begins with bottom edge slope, stepping back 2-3 cm from the edge. Laying the first row can be done:
  2. Installation of the second row is done according to the markings made, moving from the middle to the edges. Before attaching the shingles, the protective film must be removed from them, then pressed to the surface and secured with the selected fastener. If the sheets do not have a self-adhesive base, they must be coated with bitumen mastic. Next rows laid with an offset, which is determined by the geometry of the coating used. Three nails are enough to secure one shingle. The outermost sheets of tiles must be trimmed, coated with mastic and glued to the base. To level color scheme, it is recommended to place items from different packages side by side.

    In addition to fastening the edges of sheets with screws for reliable waterproofing coated with bitumen mastic

Video: sequence of laying flexible tiles

Features of installation of roof elements made of flexible tiles

For protection and strengthening gable overhang install metal additional elements. They are laid on top of the lining and securely fixed with nails, which are driven in every 10–15 cm.

Installing a drip line on a roof made of flexible tiles

To strengthen and protect the eaves overhang, metal additional elements are used, which are called. The extensions are fastened to the edge of the base with nails, driving them in 10–15 cm in a checkerboard pattern. When connecting the planks, make an overlap of up to 5 cm and hammer nails every 2–3 cm.

To fix the drip, the nails are driven in a checkerboard pattern with a spacing of 10–15 cm

In addition to the fact that the drip protects eaves overhang from moisture and strong wind, it also serves to direct water flowing from the roof into gutter, and plays aesthetic role in roof design. The color of the drips is matched to the base coating.

The sheathing for a soft roof consists of beams, boards, OSB sheets or plywood. There are basic requirements that the sheathing must meet:

  • strength and reliability;
  • ability to withstand the weight of a person and snow cover;
  • no cracks, bumps or protruding nails.

To create a soft roof ideal option counts continuous sheathing. The stages of its creation will be as follows:


Table: dependence of the thickness of the sheathing on the pitch of the rafters

The sheet material is fastened with its wide side parallel to the eaves overhang and mounted with overlapping joints according to the type brickwork.

Sheathing pitch for flexible tiles

The pitch between the sheathing boards should be 3–5 mm, and between sheet materials- about 3 mm

If the sheathing is made from edged boards, the pitch should be 3–5 mm. Under the influence of moisture and temperature, the boards will expand, and if you do not make a gap between them, they will bend over and damage the roofing material.

Video: sheathing for soft tiles

Counter-lattice for flexible tiles

Feature bituminous materials is their complete airtightness if the coating is sealed correctly. If there is no gap between the solid base and the insulation, condensation will not be able to escape from the roofing pie. This will lead to the accumulation of moisture and its entry into the insulation, causing its properties to noticeably deteriorate.

Because of this feature of flexible tiles, it is necessary to install a counter-batten in order to be able to create a ventilation gap. It is mounted on the rafters, a sparse sheathing is placed on top of it, and only then a solid one. To create a counter-lattice, bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are used.

The counter-lattice is one of the most important elements of the roofing pie and is responsible for creating a ventilation gap

When the counter-lattice is installed under the valleys, the bars are loosely applied to the flooring at a distance of about 10 cm from each other. This solution makes it possible to ensure normal drainage of water, otherwise the valleys will be poorly ventilated, since condensate will not be able to be removed normally through the eaves.

Roof rafters made of soft tiles

For soft tiles, a layered or hanging rafter system can be constructed. Installation is carried out in several stages:

  1. Preparatory work. Errors in the height of the walls that were made during masonry are eliminated. The difference can be no more than 1–2 cm. brick house defects are eliminated using mortar, and on wood - using beams and slats.
  2. Installation of the Mauerlat. First, lay a layer of roofing felt or other insulating material, and then Mauerlat. Yes, the surface wooden beam protect against moisture penetration from concrete or brickwork. To fasten the Mauerlat, threaded rods are used, pre-embedded in the masonry, anchor bolts or staples.

    Concrete or brick surfaces are leveled using a solution, a layer of roofing material is laid on them, and then the Mauerlat is installed

  3. Installation of the bed. TO internal walls fasten cross beam connecting the midpoints of the short sides of the house frame, and check its horizontalness.
  4. Installation vertical racks and run. The racks are installed on the bench, having previously secured them with struts. A ridge girder is attached to them on top. Before final fixation, carefully check the verticality of all racks and the position of the ridge - it must lie horizontally and pass strictly in the middle of the roof.

    When installing the ridge girder, it is necessary to ensure its horizontal position exactly in the middle of the roof

  5. Manufacturing roof trusses. If there are no deviations in the dimensions of the building, the rafter legs are made according to the template. First, the outer elements are mounted, a cord is pulled between them and the remaining trusses are installed. Rafters are installed under flexible tiles in increments of 60 to 200 cm. Anchor bolts and wire are used to fix the racks. Then the “fillies” are attached - the elements that support the eaves overhang. Their length should be no more than 600 mm.

    If there are no deviations in the dimensions of the building frame in the corners and horizontally, the rafter legs are made according to a single template

Connection device

In order for the material to bend more smoothly at the junction points, a strip with triangular shape. To do this, take a regular plinth or a beam cut in half. The elements of the tiles that are adjacent to the wall are brought over the edges of the slats. Strips 50–60 cm wide are made from the valley carpet and laid on top of the tiles. To ensure tightness, the strips must be lubricated with bitumen mastic. They should extend onto the wall by at least 300 mm, and in regions with snowy winters - up to 400–500 mm. The upper edge is inserted into the groove and pressed against the apron, after which the structure is fixed and sealed.

Flexible tiles are placed on a vertical surface through a triangular strip and secured in the upper part with a special abutment strip

At the junctions with brick pipes A pattern is made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal. The face pattern is installed on top of the strips of ordinary tiles. After this, the side and back patterns are installed, which are inserted under the shingles. A gutter is made on the sides and back of the pipe, and the upper corners of those shingles that fit the pipe are trimmed, which will ensure reliable drainage of water. Bottom part elements are coated with mastic and securely fixed.

Arrangement of pass-through elements

In order to properly seal the places where ventilation pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to install passage elements. They are fastened with nails, and for better fixation they are additionally lubricated with bitumen mastic, after which ordinary elements are laid on them. Then the roof outlet is put on the passage element.

In regions with frosty and snowy winters, insulated ventilation outlets. Put caps on sewer pipes It is not recommended, since when they freeze, traction will greatly deteriorate. You can use caps without internal cuts; they not only decorate the appearance of the structure, but also prevent leaves and sediment from getting inside.

Pass-through elements allow you to seal the roof where ventilation pipes pass

Video: installation of a pass-through element

Ridge installation

Special flexible tiles are laid on the ridge. Each sheet has perforations along which it is divided into three parts. After this it is deleted protective film and the element is glued to the ridge. One side of it is fixed with nails (there should be 4 of them), and next tile covers the attachment point. The overlap should be about 50 mm.

The ridge tile sheet is divided into three parts, which are laid with an overlap of 5 cm

Installation of flexible tiles is not very difficult, so you can do this work yourself. If you are a beginner, you must first study the installation technology, evaluate your strengths, and only then decide whether you can do such work yourself. Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to creating a high-quality and even base, since not only the appearance, but also the service life of flexible tiles depends on this.