Gray primer for a car. Anti-corrosion primer for cars. Preparing body parts for soil

If the builders laid the foundation in good faith, then the structure will be reliable and will last for decades. As for cars, a primer for a car is also a kind of foundation for subsequent painting and reliable protection against metal corrosion. A car owner who wants to get a high-quality paint finish never skimps on primer, because it is the basis of durability.

What is car primer?

Primer implies a whole series of products intended for application to the prepared surface of the car body. They are divided into three types:

1. Epoxy primer.
2. Primer or leveling primer.
3. Sealants.

Epoxy primer has a dense structure and is therefore water resistant. It is used as protection against oxidation. To apply to the surface of the body, the primer is combined with a hardener according to the instructions. Apply one or two layers using a spray gun. There is another good reason why epoxy is applied as the first layer - it has excellent adhesion to metal. It will serve as a good base for applying subsequent layers.

Automotive primer is also applied in another way: filler is applied to the bare metal, then several layers of auto primer are applied, each of which is sanded, and only then the sealant is applied.
The excellent quality of epoxy primer is that it does not require sanding after application. However, if defects are found in the paint, small drips can be removed with fine-grained sanding paper.

High-quality primer is not cheap, but the savings may lead to the need to repeat the painting. Therefore, it is better to immediately choose the most suitable high-quality product.
The bulk of inexpensive primers shrink after some time, and all flaws appear on the surface of the car. This mistake is often made by inexperienced craftsmen, and as a result they have to restore damaged areas. And these are additional costs, both financial and time.

Types of primer compositions for cars

Automotive metal primer has strong adhesion to the surface, protecting it from corrosion, although the layer thickness is only 15-20 microns. Depending on how it affects the metal, the primer can be divided into types:

• passivating primers containing chromates of certain metals and other substances make the surface passive to moisture. These include GF-031, GF-017 and others. For example, lead-lead primer is used to protect body parts such as the bottom and wings from corrosion;
• primers with inert particles that protective action do not, but mechanically prevent the penetration of moisture. This is a primer that is often used for minor repairs GF-21, as well as FL-OZK;

• Protective primer mixtures - contain dust of metals such as aluminum, zinc, lead, which has a lower potential than iron. This means that in the event of damage, a primer with such dust will be the first to take on the impact of aggressive substances, that is, it behaves in relation to the metal like a protector. An example is the protective primer EP-057, which is a suspension of epoxy resin and zinc powder;
• phosphating automotive primers - contain phosphoric acid, which, when interacting with metal, forms sparingly soluble phosphates. The created durable layer has good adhesion, despite the fact that its thickness is the smallest among all primers - 8-12 microns. These include primers such as VL-02, VL-08, VL-023, VL-025. Such primers penetrate the metal to a depth of 0.05 microns, thereby increasing adhesion to the metal. After their application, you can immediately apply a secondary layer of primer.
• The rust modifier primer is applied directly to areas of metal corrosion without first removing them. Anti-corrosion primer for cars, transforming rust with its components, creates a durable surface on the surface. protective film. Apply it at a temperature not lower than +15 degrees in two layers with a brush or by spraying.

Primers for cars are also divided into:

• bottom-component, which do not contain hardeners. Due to this, they take quite a long time to dry and are therefore used very rarely.
• two-component primers - they contain hardeners, and surfaces treated with them dry out within a day. Most often used.
• alcohol primers dry in just an hour due to their composition. They are used where there is simply no point in using other types of soil. They are hard and soft. The first ones are difficult to grind, but they are more stable. Whereas soft soils are easy to process, but over time they shrink and the paintwork can be damaged.

Conclusion: it is advisable to use solid two-component primers, as they are of the highest quality.

How is the body primed in a car service?

Good car repair shops apply several types of primer to its surface before painting the car. First use an acid auto primer or any of the phosphating primers that can provide the best adhesion. The composition of the primary primer is applied to the cleaned and degreased surface of the body and distributed evenly. No sanding required.

Caution: Be careful when working with phosphating and acidic primers! If there is insufficient ventilation, you can get chemical poisoning.

Next, secondary soil is laid in two or three layers. Most likely, this is a two-component hard or soft soil. They hide minor surface imperfections well. Each layer is applied after 5-10 minutes. In workshops where there are high-level professionals, in order to save time, they use primers that do not require grinding.
Ideal if available flat surface metal, as a secondary primer, you can use a composition that gives a glossy surface without grinding. It takes 15-20 minutes to dry and you can apply the finishing paint.

How to choose and apply a primer correctly

When choosing soil, always check the expiration date. Try to use all products from the same manufacturer, otherwise they may not work together and ruin your entire work. And most importantly: give preference to trusted companies.

Each product has instructions for use, which indicate how long the car primer takes to dry. Apply layers following these times on a well-prepared surface. To level the primer layers, use sanding paper with different sizes grains Grinding errors are eliminated by applying a leveling primer of a thicker consistency. But it cannot be replaced with soil. Primer can only cope with small irregularities, unlike putty.

To prevent the layers of primer and paint from mixing with each other, auto sealant is used. It protects the soil well from the solvents of the paint used, improves adhesion between layers and makes the layers homogeneous. It is its application that distinguishes professional painting from simple painting work.

If the builder was conscientious about creating the foundation, then the house will serve its owner reliably and for a long time. As for the car, the automotive primer can also be considered the foundation for subsequent painting work. Also, such compositions protect metal from the destructive effects of corrosion. Car owners who want to get quality will never skimp on primer compositions because they are the basis of everything.

What is a primer?

This is a special composition that is applied to the body before the final painting is done. This type of coating differs from paints and auto enamels in its higher adhesion to metal, plastic or putty. He is a solid foundation. Automotive primer - a whole series of products. There are several types of these compositions: epoxy-based primers, levelers, sealants and other mixtures.

Epoxy primers

Epoxy type - anti-corrosion composition. This type primers can provide high-quality and reliable protective covering for steel. Epoxy primer contains special resins and high-quality additives. They can be used for all cars. The paint is applied directly to the composition. Epoxy primer for cars cannot be used independently. It must be mixed with hardeners. Sometimes you can find these products in cans.Price from 350 rub. for 1.21 kg (brandVika,Russia).

Reactive soils

These mixtures are also excellent as anti-corrosion protection. The compositions are based on polyvinyl resins. This automotive primer holds perfectly even on the most different materials. The high level of versatility can be attributed to strong adhesion and great resistance to rusting and corrosion processes. It is recommended to apply these materials in thin layers. Price -427 rubles for 0.4 l(brandNovol,Poland).

Acrylic compounds

Automotive acrylic primer is based on one component. Such mixtures are applied by spraying using special guns. These compositions provide excellent adhesion to metal. These primers are often used to level surfaces. Among the advantages - quick drying. There is also a two-component primer based on This product has a high viscosity and allows you to get a fairly thick coating.

Two-component compositions are excellent for masking major and minor defects. These soils are different high level adhesion to various metals and corrosion resistance. The two-component acrylic primer can be applied to polyester-based putties as well as acrylic paints. Price -from 350 to 950rublesIn this case, the volume of cans can be different - 1, 1.2 or 1.3 liters.From a Polish manufacturerNovolthe cost is higher than the Russian oneVika.

Primers for plastic

This is a one-component mixture. The composition is also applied using a pistol. It significantly improves adhesion performance acrylic varnishes And polyurethane coatings. Price -276 rubles for 0.52 kg( Vika,Russia).

Passivating

These compositions contain chromates of various metals, as well as other substances, due to which the treated surface becomes practically impervious to moisture. This group includes mixtures such as GF-021, GF-017 and others. For example, a lead-based composition is used to treat and protect the underbody and wings from rust.Price - from 50 to 90 rubles per kilogram.

Protective compounds

This product contains aluminum, zinc and lead dust. These metals have a lower sensitivity threshold to rust than steel. When exposed to external influences, the protective automotive primer will be the first to be damaged, and the metal will be protected. As an example - EP-057.Their price range is very wide - from 250 to 1000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the volume of the can.

Phosphating primer

These formulations contain phosphoric acid. When it interacts with steel, the result is the formation of sparingly soluble phosphates. The primer lays on the coating in a dense layer and has good adhesion. Moreover, its thickness is the smallest of all existing ones. These include VL-02, VL-08, VL-023, VL-025. The mixture penetrates the metal to a depth of 0.05 microns. This increases adhesion to the metal of the body. It is recommended to apply the composition in two layers. Price -245 rubles per0,8 kg( Vika) .

Anti-corrosion primers

These are rust modifiers. It is recommended to apply them directly to areas of corrosion without any preliminary action. A rust primer will transform that rust. As a result, the metal is created durable film, which will protect the surface in the future. Price -1000 rubles for 0,8 l(Polish brandNovol) .

How to choose a primer?

You need to choose the right product based on the material you need to work with. Naturally, there are other factors, but they are not too significant. The composition of the parts is very different from that of wood. The composition of the mixture (and the primer is a mixture of several components) must be indicated in the instructions. It must be carefully studied before you start using this or that composition.

Single-ingredient products are not really like that at all. In any case, it will be a mixture, be it epoxy primer for cars or a modifier. As for the functionality of a particular product, it depends on the type. For example, acrylic mixtures are an almost universal solution. According to marketers, their range of applications is unlimited. But it is best to work with the means that create anti-corrosion protection and increase adhesion.

If you need to decide how to treat rusty areas, you should not rely on the unique properties of modifiers. A rust primer will only help get rid of the corrosion itself. However, you will have no way of knowing how deeply the product has penetrated into the metal. There is no guarantee that the amount of mixture applied to a corroded area will be able to convert the rust into a permanent inert layer. On small areas with a low level of “responsibility” it is justified to use modifiers. However, large areas need to be treated differently. As for the use of primer, it should be noted that it lays on the surface in an invisible layer.

Many car enthusiasts believe that the processing process is insignificant. They neglect it, so they buy cheap compounds. Such savings may result in the need for repainting. Automotive primer, the price of which is suspiciously low (less than 100 rubles per can), can shrink. In this case, there will be errors on the paintwork layer. Specialists who do professional painting work prefer to use expensive mixtures. This saves both time and money.

How to apply?

Automotive primer is applied to previously prepared surfaces. This work should be performed in rooms with good ventilation. It must be taken into account that these compounds are quite toxic. It is better to use a respirator. If a mixture is being prepared, then the consistency should not clog the spray gun nozzle. If it turns out too thick, you can thin it with a solvent. Too liquid a product is also not very good. Drips may form.

Before using a freshly prepared composition on a car, it is better to check the intensity of its spreading on another surface. For treating small areas, automotive primer in cans is suitable. It does not need to be diluted and is much easier to apply. The color is chosen so that it roughly matches the shade of the paint, although this can be quite difficult. Unfortunately, it is rarely possible to achieve a complete match.

To achieve color similarity, paint is added to the primer. Once the primer layer has been applied, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, it must be given time to dry. The treated surface should harden. For different types of soil, drying can take from ten minutes to several hours. At the end of the process, sanding is done with sandpaper with a fine grain of at least P800. Grinding is performed without water. Most primers are highly hygroscopic, which can result in additional drying time. After sanding you can start painting.

Conclusion

Priming is important stage in car painting work. After application, the paint will adhere to the surface much better, and the metal will be reliably protected from corrosion. Only good results can be achieved good primer automotive. The price of the product should be expensive - from 300 rubles per can. This will eliminate the risk of double work.

Priming a car is one of the important processes of body repair. If during puttying we achieve directly a certain form parts, then priming serves for anti-corrosion treatment and how connecting link between putty and paint. Because under no circumstances should you paint a part directly onto putty or metal. It is necessary to apply a primer to it, which will fill in small scratches from sanding the putty areas.

Priming is a mandatory item in the body repair process, and in this article we will look at existing automotive primers and their use in body repair.

And so, applying a primer is a mandatory operation prior to painting. Primer, just like varnish or paint, is applied with a spray gun.

Let's first divide automobile soils into two main groups and talk about each one separately.

The first group, primary soils (anti-corrosion), the second group, secondary (pore-filling). There are also one-component 1K and two-component 2K.

Reactive primers are all 2K, that is, two-component: Base and activator. Almost all of them are diluted 1:1. But before use, read the instructions for use.

Acid primer is applied to all areas sanded down to bare metal with one thin layer. It can cover already filled areas and partially areas with an old sanded coating.

Phosphating primers are required in body work highest quality, since this gives confidence that the metal is reliably protected from corrosion and rust, under all subsequent coatings.

Let's consider the use of acid primer using the example of a new automobile part. All new body parts are covered with shipping primer. It also happens different quality and it is recommended to remove it for perfect quality work.

And so, before applying reactive primer to a new part, it must be sanded down to metal with a P120-P180 abrasive. Where this cannot be done, it is necessary to matte in red. If you do not require ideal quality, then you can not completely remove the transport soil. It is enough to sand it. Subsequent application of secondary primer is possible after 10-15 minutes.

There is acid primer in a 1K can (spray), for some spot work, and in 2K cans.

Putty cannot be applied to acidic primers, but applying acid to putty is possible without problems!

The most common budget manufacturers: Novol, Body, Reoflex, Vika. Below are some examples.

Reactive anti-corrosion primer based on polyvinyl resins. Excellent adhesion and high anti-corrosion resistance allows the primer to be used on different types surfaces, as well as in case of damage to the coating (scratches, chipping of varnish). Since it is applied in very thin layers, optimal protection is provided when used together with any acrylic primer.

Acid anti-corrosion primer BODY 960 1:1, mixes with BODY 960 oxide hardener. Dries in 10 minutes, does not require sanding and can be painted with any two-component materials. Excellent protection against moisture and salt, and is also resistant to mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences. Has excellent adhesion to various types metal, recommended for application on steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless and chrome steel.

Epoxy primer

Automotive anti-corrosion epoxy primer can most likely be classified as both primary and secondary. Since it can be used both as a filler with anti-corrosion properties and as an independent primary filler on bare metal.

They produce two-component epoxy primer 2K in cans and in cans (aerosol) 1K. They have excellent anti-corrosion properties and have a wider range of applications than etching primers. Their advantage is that they can be used as a sanding primer and using the “wet on wet” method. That is, without intermediate sanding, it only needs to matte for 15-30 minutes and subsequent layers can be applied.

Let's say new part, stripped to metal. An epoxy primer can be applied to it using the “wet on wet” method, drying between layers and can be applied. Here there is no need for grinding the soil, which increases the speed of work. But it is advisable to carry out such a process in paint booth so that there is no garbage.

Epoxy primer Spectral Under 395 in a can. The product is in an aerosol, ideal for minor repairs. It is convenient to use on areas that have been sanded down to metal, before painting. Can be used wet on wet. Drying time 10-15 minutes at 20°C. Spectral under 395 is intended primarily for so-called rubbing that occurs when sanding the primer before applying enamel.

Epoxy primer novol 360 provides excellent protection steel surfaces, thanks to high-quality resins and active additives that prevent corrosion. Novol 360 has good adhesion to different types bases and excellent insulating properties. You can work in the system wet on wet.

Acrylic primer (filler)

Automotive two-component acrylic primer 2K, the most common and mainly used in work. Is not anti-corrosion primer. Main purpose acrylic primer This is to fill the pores, small marks on the body panel after sanding. That's why they are called "Fillers" or fillers and universal ones. His task is also to create a substrate for applying paint coating, since the paint must be applied to a primed surface or to an old paint layer.

When applied, the layer thickness can reach 50-100 microns or more. Acrylic filler can be universal and can be used both as an adhesive and as a filler. It all depends on the proportion in which it will be diluted with thinner and how many layers you apply.

Acrylic primers come in a variety of colors. It's mostly grey, black and white. They are used to reduce paint consumption and to avoid differences in coating shades.

Reoflex primer acrylic is a universal quick-drying leveler. Reoflex is used as a primer, thick-layer filler and insulator against old paintwork and putties. Reoflex is applicable in the “wet on wet” version. It comes in grey, white, black and red. Reoflex dries in 4 hours at 20 degrees. Application wet on wet, possible after 30 minutes.

Thinning, applying and treating primer

How to dilute the soil? Acrylic primer can be diluted with any branded acrylic solvent. Just don't use 650, 646, 647, etc.

Basically, fillers are diluted 4:1 and 10-20% thinner. Less common are 3:1 and 5:1 in ratio to the hardener.

Viability of filler acrylic base ranges from 30 to 60 minutes. The secondary primer is applied to the primary primer and to putty and sanded areas in 2-3 layers. Do not apply more than necessary.

For large surface repairs, primer is applied to the entire part. For minor repairs, the filler should cover the putty layer. Apply with a nozzle size of 1.6-1.8mm.

For small spot areas to be repaired, the filler layer in these places should be thicker than in the border areas.
Test each subsequent layer must overlap the previous one! So that there is no "Pie".

After drying, which is 3-8 hours at 20 degrees, you can start sanding. Be sure to check the instructions on the product can. The filler layer must be sanded well. Poor sanding will result in paint defects. Start working when completely dry. Pay special attention to layers of increased thickness. Sanding wet soil leads to the formation of scratches and clogging of the sandpaper. Let's divide the work with soil into two stages:

1. Coarse sanding - evens out the filler layer. Skins of higher grain size are used. They mainly use a hand sanding block with P320 abrasive, with caution P240.
2. Finish sanding - an achievement required surface for good paint adhesion and covering rough sanding marks. Use abrasive P500-P600 on an eccentric machine when dry or P800-P1000 when wet.

Proper processing is step grinding. They start with coarse sand and end with fine sandpaper. Avoid using coarse abrasive as it is more difficult to grind into finer abrasives.

The filler, unlike putty, can be processed both dry and wet. With dry sanding, a high-quality surface is achieved faster than with wet sanding. At wet grinding You can use a finer abrasive, making use of the presence of water.

Primer for plastics

Primer for plastic is adhesive primers, or “Primer for plastic” which are used for. Their main task is to adhere to the surface of the plastic and become an adhesive substrate for subsequent coatings. Primers for plastic are always 1K - one-component compositions. They are often called "plasticizer". They do not require dilution and are in finished form, mostly transparent, slightly yellowish tint. Basically, plastic primer is suitable for all types of plastic. Of course, there are difficulties with polypropylene and polyethylene PP, PE. So, read the compatibility instructions on the can before purchasing.

If the new plastic part is not primed, then according to the technology, before applying a primer to it, it must be heated at a temperature of 50 degrees. Within 30-40 minutes. During this time, the silicone (it is used to lubricate molds during bumper stamping) rises to the surface, where it is removed with a degreaser and a napkin. In garage conditions, this can only be done in hot weather, by placing the part in the sun. Alternative option– simply wash the part in warm soapy water.

Primer for plastic Reoflex aerosol is a one-component primer in a can, designed to improve the adhesion of paintwork to plastic. Apply in one thin layer. Can be applied on top acrylic materials And base coats. The following companies are also common: Body, Kudo, Novol.

Problems when priming a car

The main problems that occur during priming are subsidence and lambing. After applying the secondary primer, the filled areas will often become contoured.

Contouring is the manifestation of the boundaries of the putty area under subsequent coatings. This is a very unpleasant and clearly visible defect. It may not occur immediately, but several days after painting. It occurs due to the fact that polyester putties shrink already under the paint, as a result of which the border of the putty area becomes visible.

Reasons for contouring:

• If under the putty there was not pure metal, but an old paint coating.
• If there was little time for final shrinkage to occur.

The putty dries in 20 minutes, but nowhere is there any indication of the time required for complete shrinkage. Practice shows that final grinding under secondary primer is ideally carried out within 24 hours.

The only way to combat this phenomenon is time.

The conclusions are:

1. Recycled primer should not be applied in a layer of excessive thickness. There are liquid putties for this.
2. The final shrinkage of the applied materials takes time.
3. Remember previous and subsequent coverage.

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Priming the car 147,206 Views

Primer is the base for paint and varnish coatings. It protects the metal from the corrosion process. If putty is used to correct the shape of car parts, then primer helps fight the formation of rust.

According to their purpose, car primers can be as follows:

For plastic;

Acrylic;

Aerosol;

Acidic;

Anti-corrosion;

Epoxy;

With fillers;

Insulators.

Acrylic primer for cars

It has long been known that worst enemy metal Acrylic auto primer helps protect metal elements body from it. This primer is resistant to high temperature and to temperature changes. Using acrylic primer, you can not only protect the body from the formation of rust, but also level out unevenness on its surface before further painting. Using this paint and varnish material together with acrylic paint allows you to give the body a flawless appearance for a long time.

Depending on the number of components, acrylic auto primers can be one-component or two-component. One-component primer can be applied in a thin layer. It is great for new parts and has good adhesion. Two-component acrylic primers can be used for any type of body repair. This automotive primer has excellent adhesion and short drying time. Most often, a two-component primer is used at the last stage of surface leveling. It can be used to fill small pores and smooth out scratches.

Acid (etching) primer for cars

The composition of acid paint and varnish material includes acid, which “eats” a very thin, microscopic layer metal surface body Thanks to this, the adhesion of paint to metal significantly increases. In addition, corrosion processes do not spread under the paint layer.

Auto primer in a can (aerosol)

If a small amount of primer is required for repairs, then it is more advisable to use aerosol primer. It is great for certain areas of the body that have lost their attractiveness. appearance and rubbed down to bare metal. The main advantage of such primers is their economical use, because if you used a spray bottle, there would be some residue left on its walls. most of LMB.

Like acrylic primers, they provide good adhesion to the paintwork and base, improving their characteristics, and protect the surface from corrosion.

Epoxy primer for cars

Epoxy primer provides reliable protection of the car body from the formation and spread of corrosion. It is based on special resins and high-quality additives. Epoxy primers are used when filling or before painting the body. They are the basis before holding data repair work, and also improve the adhesion of the paintwork to the body surface.

If small scratches appear on the body, it is enough to prime them; putty is not required. But to hide dents and serious defects, you first need to use a universal or filling putty, and then an epoxy primer.

Epoxy primers are characterized by resistance to temperature fluctuations, moisture and mechanical damage, as well as quick drying. Before applying the primer, the surface is cleaned and degreased. If there is already rust on the surface, it should be removed before priming.

Anti-corrosion primer for cars

Anti-corrosion primers are a special composition that fights the appearance of rust and the effects of moisture on the car body. They are elastic, waterproof, dry quickly and are perfectly distributed over the surface of the body. With their help you can fill any cracks and micropores.

In my own way chemical composition Anti-corrosion primers are:

Epoxy (the epoxy film they form protects the surface metal parts from moisture and prevents further spread of corrosion, the use of epoxy primer is allowed, both on the putty surface and on bare metal)

Polyurethane (requires preliminary preparation surface);

Polyurethane fillings.

Alkyd (soils resistant to low temperatures and dry quickly)

Primer for plastic

When it becomes necessary to process plastic parts, you cannot do without a primer for plastic. This primer is suitable for almost any plastic parts (except PE). It helps to repair car bumpers, mirrors, spoilers and plastic grilles, as well as many other plastic elements. For each specific type plastic and paint coating, which will then be applied to the part, there is separate species soil.

This primer can be applied using a spray gun, and then coated with alkyd auto enamel or any other paint not intended for plastic products.

Insulating primer for car

If a situation arises when it is planned to apply incompatible paints and varnishes, then an insulating primer is used. It acts as a barrier between the two different coatings. The insulators can be based on either wood alcohol or any other solvent that does not interact with other types of paint.

Such primers are applied to surfaces made of steel, zinc or aluminum, as well as to factory paintwork. Before use, the insulating primer must not be heated or its structure changed in any other way. Any other types of primers or two-component enamels can be applied over insulating primers. Before using the insulator, to check, it is better to apply it to some unnecessary part.

Primer with fillers

They are characterized by high adhesion to the car body and, due to the fillers included in the composition, perfectly hide small dents, scratches, cavities and other surface defects. To fill large defects, it is advisable to use car putties.

Priming is the basis for successful car painting. In this case, the soil serves as a kind of foundation on which the remaining layers of paint and varnish are laid. Almost all mistakes made at the priming stage are not due to a lack of skills and knowledge of how to properly paint a car body part ( practical part easiest to learn). Most of the problems come from the fact that today almost every famous company, which produces repair materials, offers a wide range of primers, differing both in purpose and principle of action. Therefore, it is right to choose which primer is best for a car, in specific case can be very difficult.

What are the options

Considering that today there are hundreds of brands and names of various primers on the market, they can be conditionally divided into two large groups:

• primers (primary);
• fillers (secondary).

The former are used to protect the metal from corrosion and subsequently ensure strong adhesion of the paint coating to the surface being painted. The purpose of the second is to level out surface unevenness before painting and create a uniform base layer under the enamel. Also today you can find universal primers that combine the properties of primers and fillers.

All automotive primers are divided into the following types:

• one-component (does not contain a hardener and takes up to several days to dry);
• two-component (they contain hardeners, so they dry in a few hours);
• alcohol (due to the presence of alcohols in the composition, they dry in a matter of minutes).

Primary soils

Primary primer (adhesive, etching) is designed to protect bare metal in areas that are most susceptible to corrosion. From this category, the most popular today are automotive primers with phosphating action. They are called so because the catalyst chemical reaction they contain a mixture based on orthophosphoric acid. Interacting with the metal surface, the primer forms a thin (up to 12 microns) and durable layer of sparingly soluble phosphates, which subsequently protects the surface from corrosion. Which primer is best for cars? There are no special preferences here. Although, if possible, it is better to buy high-quality, expensive primer, which precisely indicates the recommended application thickness and possible shrinkage upon drying.

Secondary soils

These include standard protective, passivating and other types of primers. They also protect the car body from moisture and corrosion, but their main purpose is to smooth out various irregularities, roughness and pores in the metal surface. After processing, the latter becomes absolutely smooth and uniform, which allows for high-quality painting.

You can put it in a separate category epoxy primers and insulating soils (sealers). The former are a good alternative to acid-containing primary primers, and the latter serve to isolate old coating layers, eliminating possible problems with their swelling and peeling.

Soil selection

When choosing which primer is best for a car, you need to give preference to trusted manufacturers. Here, more than anywhere else, the rule that the miser pays twice is true. Repairing a car once, but with high quality, is much cheaper than saving money and then having to redo the whole job.

High-quality soils for cars favorable prices can be found in the online store website in the appropriate section. IN electronic catalog contains a huge range of primers and other materials. In addition, we have all related products for car repair and painting. Along with the primer, you can buy abrasives, auto enamels, putties, varnishes and all the tools necessary for the job.