Grand Line Soffits. Roof soffits Grand Line (Russia) Vinyl soffits grand line

To calculate Grand Line siding, you need to know the area of ​​​​the external walls of the house. You can get this data from project documentation or their

When, from the total area of ​​the walls, only the area of ​​​​large openings (gates, big windows, double swing doors and so on.). Ordinary windows and doors should not be taken into account.

For more accurate information, please contact the sales offices of the Stroymet company. You can always call us: the company’s specialists will calculate the exact quantity necessary materials and answer your questions.

Transportation and storage

Vinyl siding, soffits and accessories should be stored:

• only in branded packaging;
• in ventilated areas;
• at temperatures from -35° C to +50° C and relative humidity air 40...60%;
• in conditions that prevent moisture and direct sun rays for materials.

At long-term storage packages should be placed on racks or pallets with no more than 5 packages in a row in height.

It is prohibited to store siding, soffits and accessories:

• without branded packaging;
• next to workers heating devices;
• under direct sunlight.

Transportation

• siding and accessories should be transported by covered transport in branded packaging;
• When transported without packaging, materials should be placed in the truck front side up. Between the panels it is necessary to place material that will protect the front side of the siding panels from scratches;
• packages with materials should not protrude beyond the body;
• packages with siding should be located at the bottom, with accessories - at the top;
• packages should be secured so that they do not move around the body while driving;
• The air temperature in the body should be between -50° C and +50° C.

When loading or unloading, packages of siding and accessories must not be thrown, bent or otherwise deformed.

Grand Line® Vinyl Siding Installation Tools

The correct choice of materials, tools and equipment greatly simplifies the installation of vinyl siding.

Installation of Grand Line® vinyl siding

General rules

• The screws should be screwed exactly into the middle of the special holes, without screwing them all the way. It is impossible to rigidly fix siding elements: due to thermal deformations, the panels are constantly compressing and expanding. Rigid fixation can damage the siding;
• siding should not be used together with metal additional elements;
• the panels are attached only to the sheathing.

Preparing the wall surface

• nail down any loose panels or boards that line the wall;
• clean the wall around window and door openings from any remaining plaster;
• remove all protruding elements that may interfere with the installation of Grand Line siding.

Installation of sheathing

Advantages of a metal profile:

• zinc anti-corrosion coating;
• stable geometry;
• light weight.

Vertical profiles are attached in increments of 300...400 mm between the axes. In addition, you must attach a profile:

• horizontally - above and below window openings;
• horizontally - above doorways;
• horizontally - along the upper and lower boundaries of the walls;
• vertically - on each side of each external and internal corner.

If the distance between the sheathing elements is more than 400 mm, the deflection of the siding under load (for example, if someone accidentally presses their hand on it) will be too great. With a large deflection, it can crack - especially in winter, when PVC becomes more fragile.

Vertical and horizontal sheathing elements should not be connected to each other. This can impair ventilation of the wall under the siding.

At the outer and inner corners, two profiles are located close to each other. It is advisable to connect them together with corners in advance.

If the building does not require insulation:

• attach a wind barrier to the wall;
• install hangers for fastening profiles;
• Attach drywall profiles to the hangers, maintaining verticality. The “extra” parts of the hangers can simply be bent inward.

If the building needs to be insulated:

• fix it on the wall;
• install hangers;
• fasten ;
• secure the windbreak by carefully making cuts in the places where the hangers are located;
• install profiles.

Important: there should be no cracks or holes in the thermal insulation layer.

Fasteners

Self-tapping screws are used to attach hangers to the wall and profiles to hangers. It is better to screw them in with a screwdriver.

Fastener selection

To fasten profiles and siding panels, you should use aluminum or galvanized self-tapping screws with caps with a diameter of 8...10 cm. The base of the cap should be flat (see Fig. 4). The leg of the self-tapping screw must have a length that allows it to be buried into the wall by at least 20 mm.

Please note: for installation of Grand Line siding, use adhesive compositions it is forbidden. Sealant can and should only be used to seal seams.

Fastening siding - tolerances

When attaching panels to chamfers and edges, it is necessary to leave a thermal gap between the edge and the edge of the panel to compensate for thermal deformations. The gap width is 6 mm in summer, 10 mm in winter. (see Fig. 5).

• screws should be screwed in at a distance of 300...400 mm from each other;
• When tightening the screw, always leave a gap of 0.8...1 mm wide between the screw head and the panel (see Fig. 6). If the panel is screwed tightly, thermal expansion can lead to significant deformations (in such cases it is customary to say that the siding “went in waves”);
• the self-tapping screw should be screwed into the middle of the perforation hole (see Fig. 7);
• When cutting panels, you must first make a hole in the place where the screw is screwed in. Use the cutter;
• You cannot pull the siding when fastening it.

What should you do if, after installing Grand Line siding, you find a rigidly fixed panel?

In this case, the fastening should be loosened. It will be necessary to remove the panel adjacent to the “problem” one using a special hook, loosen the threaded fastening and install the panel in place.

How to Cut Vinyl Siding

Siding can be cut:

• metal scissors;
• a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth;
• sharp knife-cutter;
• manual electric saw with abrasive disc;
• grinder at low speed. You should ensure that the cutting disc of the grinder does not overheat. A hot disk can melt the panel.

Installation of Grand Line siding panels

Sequence of actions when covering walls:

• installation of the starting bar;
• installation of external and internal corners;
• installation of connecting H-profiles (with the appropriate method of joining panels);
• installation of J-profile and finish bar;
• installation of main panels.

Installation of the starting bar

Determine the point of the lower border of the future siding sheathing at one of the corners of the building. Then mark a point 50mm higher. Using a building level and a cord (or chalk), draw a horizontal line from this point along the perimeter of the building.

The drawn line should coincide with the top edge of the starting bar. Install the starting strip along the entire perimeter of the building (except for the corners), securing it with self-tapping screws. When joining adjacent planks, leave a 6 mm wide gap between them. The same gap should be between the edges of the starting strips and the side edges of the corner strips.

Setting the outside corner

Install the corner profile on the corner of the house. In this case, between the upper edge of the profile and the roof soffit or other roofing element there should remain a gap of 1...4 mm wide, between bottom edge corner profile and lower limiting elements (for example, ebb) - 4...6 mm.

Secure the profile with two self-tapping screws, screwing them into top part holes, as shown in Fig. 11. Align the strip and secure the corner profile with self-tapping screws along the entire length. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the middle of the holes every 200...400 mm.

If the length of the corner profile is not enough, it is necessary to combine several parts. To do this, it is better to cut off a perforated part 25 mm long from the lower edge of the upper part, as shown in Fig. 13. Then install the top piece on top of the bottom piece, overlapping the cut section by 20mm. Another 5 mm is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

Installing planks at non-rectangular corners

For cladding non-rectangular corners, Stroymet engineers recommend using conventional corner strips Grand Line. They are flexible enough that they can literally be pulled at an angle and then secured in the desired position (see Fig. 14).

Installing siding around window or door openings

There is an opening between the sheathing of the opening and the wall of the house through which moisture can get under the sheathing. This opening must be covered with an apron made of aluminum foil, roofing felt or galvanized steel.

For covering adjacent to window and doorways areas can be used:

• J-profile;
• J-profile wide (platband);
• window strip.

If the opening is recessed into the wall, install the window strip, securing the edge located inside the opening with a finishing strip (see Fig. 15 and 16). The window strip is weakly held in the finish: in order to securely fix it, use a cutter to make tongues every 10 cm (this should be done in warm weather, because in cold weather the cutter will simply punch through the strip through hole). The tabs that are folded toward the finish trim will hold the window trim securely in place.

If the opening is not recessed, a flat J-profile should be used for sheathing. The profile is installed with the blank side facing the opening; the horizontal siding panels will be inserted into its bend.

Installation of a wide J-profile (platband)

1. Install the finishing strip around the perimeter of the opening;
2. Prepare a piece of additional element for the bottom side of the window opening. Its length should be equal to the length of the window opening + 130 mm (65 mm on each side);
3. Notch the horizontal side of the element by 65 mm on each side so that the element fits into the opening. Bend the resulting rectangle up at a right angle;
4. Cut a corner from the vertical part at an angle of 45 degrees;
5. Using a cutter, make tongues at a distance of 100 mm from each other;
6. Insert the lower additional element, controlling its horizontalness;
7. Secure the installed element with self-tapping screws;
8. Install the additional element on top in the same way. The difference is that the 65mm wide edge curves downwards;
9. Proceed to install the side elements. The side elements have two vertical edges: one of them will be inside the opening, the second will be parallel external wall. It is necessary to cut rectangles from the edge that will be inside the opening. The height of these rectangles should be equal to the height of the horizontally located element (here again a drawing is needed). There is no need to cut a triangle from the side parallel to the outer wall at an angle of 45 degrees: this corner will be hidden;
10. Use a cutter to create tabs that will hold the side pieces in the finish strip;
11. Secure the side elements with self-tapping screws.

Installation of window trim

There is a high probability that the panels adjacent to the window at the top and bottom will have to be trimmed. To do this, you need to take measurements in advance.

The length of the cut section should be 6 mm greater than the width of the window opening. The depth of the cut section should also be 6 mm greater than the height of the additional element at the bottom of the window (see Fig. 17 and 23).

Installation of H-profiles

Longitudinal joining of siding panels is possible overlapping, as shown in Figure 22, or using H-profiles.

When adding overlapping siding, each subsequent panel should overlap the previous one by 25 mm. The joints of vertically adjacent panels must be shifted horizontally from each other.

When joining panels using an H-profile, all joints will be on the same vertical line (see Figure 22). The H-profile itself is attached to the vertical sheathing element. The panels are inserted into it with a small gap - 5...6 mm in summer, 10...11 mm in winter. Remember to use a notch to create tabs to securely hold the cut section in place.

Installation of siding panels

Installing the siding panels themselves is much easier than installing the sheathing and additional elements.

Installation starts from the bottom. The panels of the first row are installed in the starting strip and fixed with self-tapping screws, as described above. After installation, you can check the fixation of the panel by moving it horizontally with your palms: a correctly secured panel can easily move left and right.

Installation of vertical siding

The technology of wall cladding with vertical siding differs from the traditional one in only a few details:

1. Vertical siding panels are attached to horizontal sheathing;
2. It is necessary to install a facing strip along the lower edge of the future cladding. A J-profile is installed along the upper edge (see Fig. 27);
3. Installation should begin from one of the corners. To do this, insert into the corner profile starting bar(Fig. 28);
4. If the complete wall covering does not require an integral number of panels, the latter must be cut and secured, as shown in Fig. 29.

Installing the finishing strip and fixing the siding panels with it

Finishing strips are used:

• in places where vertical siding joins horizontal siding;
• in places where the upper siding panel adjoins the eaves of the house;
• in places where the panels adjoin the upper or lower edge of the openings.

The finishing strip is installed close to the edge of the wall or J-profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The adjacent siding panel is cut to height (with a 6 mm wide gap to compensate for thermal expansion). After this, you need to make “tongues” on the cut surface using a cutter and secure the panel in the groove of the finishing strip.

Passage of protruding objects through siding

To pass ventilation ducts, pipes and other protruding elements, Stroymet specialists recommend using special Grand Line pass-through accessories. If the company does not have a suitable product in its assortment pass-through element, you can simply cut a hole in the panel. The gap between the edges of the hole and the protruding element must be at least 6 mm.

Installation of spotlights

Please note: soffits are intended exclusively for covering the under-roof surface. They cannot be used to cover walls and other vertical surfaces.

Installation of soffits with fastening using a wind board

This method is used if the width of the wind board (J-chamfer) is sufficient to completely cover the wind board. Sequencing:

1. Secure the finishing strip to the top of the fascia board;
2. If necessary, cut the wind board to the desired width and install it so that the top edge is secured by the already installed finishing strip;
3. Attach the J-profile to the wall so that its groove is located in one horizontal plane with wind board groove. If necessary, you can use wooden block;
4. Cut the soffits into pieces required length and insert them with one end into the J-profile groove on the wall, and the other into the J-chamfer groove. Attach the soffits with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.

Installation with fixing using external corner profile

This method is suitable for cases when front board significantly wider than the J-chamfer. Sequencing:

1. Install the J-profile along the top edge of the fascia board;
2. Install the outer corner profile on the lower edge of the front board, as shown in Fig. 32;
3. Install another J-profile on the wall, as in the previous case;
4. Cut the soffit pieces and install them into the grooves of the J-profiles and the outer corner, as shown in the figure;
5. Secure the soffits with self-tapping screws.

Please note: the vertical surface of the front board can only be sheathed with soffits white. This side is not protected from sunlight: brown soffits attached to it can quickly fade.

Replacing damaged panels

A damaged panel of Grand Line vinyl siding can be replaced without removing the entire siding. To do this, you need to insert the mounting hook into the overlap of the panels or the profile slot, and then move it along the panel to “open” the locking connection.

The released panel is still held in place by the screws. Unscrew them: if one of the screws won't come out, you can simply hammer it into the sheathing.

Installation of the new panel is carried out in reverse order: first it is screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, and then the lock is latched using a hook.

Replacing the corner profile and H-profile

To replace the corner profile it is necessary to cut front part from an already installed profile. The nail strip and bottom of the receiving profile must remain in place. After this, the nail part is cut off from the new corner profile and the rest is carefully attached to the structure that remains on the wall.

The H-profile is replaced in the same way.

Caring for Vinyl Siding, Soffits and Accessories

Grand Line vinyl siding can be washed with water from garden hose. It is recommended to remove stubborn dirt with a brush or cloth. Household cleaners are used to remove mold.

Prohibited:

• use cleaning powders with abrasive particles;
• leave cleaning products on the siding surface for more than 5...10 minutes;
• treat or allow vinyl surfaces to come into contact with organic solvents, degreasers or polishes.

Installation of Grand Line siding in the cold season

Attention! Colors may differ from the original due to monitor color rendering characteristics. For samples please contact the sales office.

Vinyl soffit is facing material, used for finishing roof eaves, ledges of country house roofs, gazebos, porches and other under-roof surfaces. Roof soffit protects the surface from precipitation and influences external environment Moreover, the perforated soffit allows the roof to “breathe” freely.

Advantages of Grand Line® vinyl soffits

• Ideal lining of cornices with soffits.

Optimally selected color that goes well with dark brown (RR 32) and chocolate (RAL 8017). These are one of the most popular colors for facades and roofs.

In the Grand Line® assortment, all additional elements are presented in brown color and, if necessary, can be used for installing spotlights.

• Seamless installation.

The geometry of Grand Line® vinyl soffits is specially designed so that the joint of the panels is not noticeable when the roof eaves are hemmed with soffit.

• Fade resistant.

The resistance of Grand Line® vinyl soffits to ultraviolet exposure is confirmed in writing by tests in the Holland Colors laboratory. The test results (xenotest) of the leading European dye production concern are on our website.

• Don't put off construction until spring.

The impact resistance and flexibility of Grand Line® vinyl soffits is up to 6 times higher compared to other vinyl soffits domestic producers. This allows you to install Grand Line® vinyl soffits 10 months a year. Roof lining with soffit can be carried out even at sub-zero temperatures down to -10 °C.

• Stability in brown color.

Vinyl soffits Grand Line® in brown remains dark throughout its service life thanks to:
1. special production recipe
2. European quality paints

While brown soffits from other manufacturers become light over time.

• Branded warranty for Grand Line® vinyl soffits

50 years - no deformation (cracking, swelling, delamination) or uneven fading
11 years – product color stability: white, brown

Roof soffits are sold in Grand Line branded stores and in the offices of the company's dealers.

Any office will provide a professional calculation of the amount of material you need.

Advantages of Grand Line® vinyl soffits compared to alternative materials

• not subject to rotting or corrosion
• provides the roof with the necessary ventilation
• does not support combustion
• does not conduct electricity
• easy to install, convenient and easy to maintain
• resistant to physical deformation
• environmentally friendly

Looking for quality soffits to trim eaves and roof overhangs? Don’t want to run into a fake and purchase defective material that will eventually wear out within the first 2-3 years of operation?

Our assortment includes solid and perforated soffits from the Grand Line company, in brown and white colors. They have convenient size and unique characteristics: ease of installation, resistance to deformation and beautiful appearance. Vinyl soffits Grand Line can be purchased in our online store. We have Fast shipping from a warehouse in Moscow and low prices for all Grand Line products.

Functional purpose of Grand Line spotlights

Practical Grand Line roof soffits are suitable not only for the renovation of residential buildings, but also for the improvement of commercial facilities - such as restaurants, cafes, etc. The main task of vinyl soffits is to protect the under-roof surface from the penetration of precipitation, wind, dust and harmful microorganisms, and It also ventilates the under-roof space.

Perforated soffit allows the roof to “breathe” (providing ventilation of the under-roof space). This not only has a positive effect on the service life of the roofing structure, but also creates a favorable, comfortable environment in the house.

Advantages

This facing material is made from natural ingredients, which gives it a number of positive properties:

• Environmental friendliness. No pungent odors, allergies or headaches from toxic fumes from the linen, no harm to environment- vinyl soffits will not emit hazardous substances into the air chemical compounds even when exposed to sunlight or open fire.
• Resistant to rot and corrosion. While other materials become covered with a layer of rust and rot after the first rainy season, vinyl Grand Line will remain in perfect condition even after 50 years of operation - it is for this period that the manufacturing company provides a guarantee for all products from model range Grand Line.
• Dielectric properties. This premium fabric will not conduct current in the event of a broken electrical wiring under the roof or a direct lightning strike. Consequently, the inhabitants of the house will be able to feel completely safe even when severe thunderstorms are raging outside the window.
• Easy to install. Thanks to the thoughtful geometry of the sheets, as well as seamless installation technology, you can handle the installation yourself in just a couple of days, without involving builders.
• UV resistance. Grand Line vinyl soffits are made according to a special “recipe”, thanks to which its surface effectively reflects ultraviolet radiation and does not allow it to destroy internal structure and external coloring of the canvas. And these are not empty words - the resistance of the panels to ultraviolet radiation is confirmed by tests carried out in the laboratory famous company Holland Colours.
• Durability to deformations and temperature changes. (in the range from -50°С to +60°С)

If you live in an area with a cold climate and think that installation of soffits can only begin when it gets warmer, you don’t have to worry - this work can be carried out even at 10 degrees below zero. Therefore, you should not wait until the roof of your house wears out or collapses due to precipitation and strong wind- reliably protect it with Grand Line vinyl panels by purchasing it on our website right now.

The lineup

Additional Grand Line elements with dimensions

For correct installation The following additional elements are required:

Vinyl soffit Grand Line® AMERIKA is a cladding material used for finishing roof eaves, overhangs of country house roofs, gazebos, porches and other under-roof surfaces. The roof soffit protects the surface from precipitation and environmental influences, and the perforated soffit allows the roof to “breathe” freely.

Accessories for installation of spotlights

Advantages of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits

• Ideal lining of cornices with soffits.

Optimally selected color that goes well with dark brown (RR 32) and chocolate (RAL 8017). One of the most popular colors for lining roof eaves.

In the Grand Line® assortment, all additional elements are presented in brown color and, if necessary, can be used for installing soffits.

• Seamless installation.

The geometry of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffit is designed in such a way that the joint of the panels is not noticeable when the roof eaves are hemmed with soffit.

• Fade resistant.

The resistance of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits to ultraviolet exposure is confirmed in writing by tests in the Holland Colors laboratory. The test results (xenotest) of the leading European dye production concern are on our website.

• Don't put off construction until spring.

The impact resistance and flexibility of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits is up to 6 times higher compared to vinyl soffits from other domestic manufacturers. This allows installation of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits 10 months a year. Roof lining with soffit can be carried out even at sub-zero temperatures down to -10 °C.

• Stability in brown color.

Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits in brown remain dark throughout their service life thanks to:

1. special production recipe
2. European quality of paints

• Branded warranty for vinyl soffits Grand Line® AMERIKA

50 years - no deformation (cracking, swelling, delamination) and uneven fading
9 years - product color stability: white, brown

• Easy to buy

Sales and professional calculation of the number of roof soffits you need.

• Reasonable price for high quality!

The cost of Grand Line® AMERIKA spotlights is low, considering excellent quality material and long service life.

Advantages of Grand Line® AMERIKA vinyl soffits compared to alternative materials

• not subject to rotting or corrosion
• provides the roof with the necessary ventilation
• does not support combustion
• does not conduct electricity
• easy to install, convenient and easy to maintain
• resistant to physical deformation
• environmentally friendly

Do you need a consultation?

Grand Line metal soffits allow you to finish various horizontal surfaces facing down. Soffits are designed for decorative finishing eaves and end overhangs of roofs, terraces, canopies, etc. If necessary, soffits can also be used to decorate vertical elements of eaves and facades.

Soffit panels are produced in standard size 3 m or to order, in a size optimally suited for a specific object. choose a more convenient and economical option.

Take measurements of the length of the overhangs along the plane of the filing, the width of the front board and total length cornices and ends that will be hemmed with soffit.

Each object is individual and requires the choice of a hemming scheme that takes into account the design features of the overhang and the aesthetic preferences of the owner. This manual discusses the most popular, standard options. Study the proposed schemes and choose the most suitable one for your case.

Attention! When choosing a soffit type, it is necessary to take into account the features of the device eaves overhang and the need to ensure air entry into the roof and attic space. If there is such a need, only fully perforated soffit is required.

Figure 2 shows an example of using a fully perforated soffit for the option cold roof made of metal tiles with a break in waterproofing on the eaves overhang.

As a rule, in private construction, wooden boards or bars are used as lathing for installing soffits. The use of galvanized metal profiles is allowed.

Attention! Acceptance, movement and storage of soffit must be carried out in strict accordance with the rules specified in the warranty card and instructions for the client.

The protective film must be removed before installing the products. Shelf life of panels protective film- no more than 30 days from the date of receipt of the order. It is necessary to prevent the product in the film from coming into direct sunlight.

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to cut metal soffit with an abrasive wheel (grinder)! Using an abrasive wheel (grinder) may cause damage polymer coating and accelerated metal corrosion. Damage resulting from the use of an angle grinder is not covered by the warranty.

To cut panels, it is recommended to use cutting shears and a drill attachment. "Steel Beaver" , multifunctional cutter. Use hand tin snips to cut the panel around the lock. To install a metal soffit, you may also need the following tools: roulette , building level , roofing mites , jigsaw with metal file , screwdriver .

To touch up damaged polymer coating on the surface of panels and additional elements, use a corrector to eliminate scratches.

The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

For lathing from wooden beam for fastening panels and additional elements, PSh self-tapping screws are used (No. 1, Fig. 3).

Fig.3

For metal sheathing Self-tapping screws with a PShS drill are used (No. 2, Fig. 3). Additional elements can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and steel blind rivets (No. 3, Fig. 3).

Grand Line metal soffits are equipped with standard strips, which are made in film. Standard lengths of planks are 2 and 3 m. If necessary, the order can be completed with non-standard additional elements according to the customer’s sketches.

The most popular filing method is horizontal. Bars are attached to the rafters (or fillies), which form the frame of the eaves box.

When preparing to install the soffit, control the future plane of the lining using a plumb line and a building level.

From the side of the wall and the front board, nail 2 boards to attach additional elements and soffit strips to them. If the overhang length is more than 80 cm, use 3 attachment points for the soffit (Fig. 4). The boards must be wide enough to accommodate additional elements and soffits, for example, 100 mm.

J-chamfer pattern

The scheme using a J-chamfer is the most aesthetically pleasing, as it allows you to hide the fasteners.

Use J-profile as a receiving profile on the wall side 1 (Fig. 5). Attach it to the board, close to the wall or to the facade cladding material with self-tapping screws in increments of 500-600 mm.

Attach the finishing strip along the top line of the front board 2 .

Apply J-bevel 3 to the attachment point. It should fit into the finishing strip and be attached to the sheathing board. if necessary, adjust the length of the flat part by cutting off the excess.

Insert the J-bevel into the finish strip and secure as shown (Figure 5). Using a finishing strip eliminates the waviness of the flat portion of the J-bevel.

When using short hooks drainage system the finishing strip may not be used, since the hooks are attached to the front board (Fig. 6). In this case, it is recommended to attach a J-chamfer 1 screws on top 2 into a pre-made perforation using an oval hole cutter.

When frontal or end boards perform a decorative function and remain open, use 2 J-profiles 1 (Fig. 7).

Before installation, prepare the strip that you plan to extend, as shown in Fig. 8 for the J-profile and in Fig. 9 for J-chamfer.

The cut edge of the bottom flange of the prepared J-bevel should fit into the gap between the bottom flange and the groove of the strip it is mating to.

To prepare the strips, use hand tin snips and roofing pliers.

The J-profile can be simply mounted end-to-end.

When J-chamfer turns are present, such as on cornices hip roof, start installing it from the corner.

To prepare the J-bevel for turning, mark the bend line of the plank at the turn 150 mm from the edge (Fig. 10).

Cut the receiving groove to the fold line, leaving the folding of the bottom flange.

Make a cutout on the bottom shelf from the 45° bend line. Cut off 25mm of folding at the edge.

Fig.10

Fold the J-bevel along the line so that the 45° cut edge of the bottom flange is on the outside. The short edge of the plank is not attached to the sheathing; it will be pressed against the front board by the next plank when joining (Fig. 11).

At the ends of the front board, for example, at the transition from the cornice to the gable, to frame the J-bevel 1 you can use a finishing strip 2 or fold the edge to hide the edge (Fig. 12).

Prepare the soffit panels so that the length of the panel is 40 mm less than the length of the eaves overhang from the wall to the edge of the fascia board.

Start installing panels from the edge or corner of the eaves.

Install the prepared panel 3 all the way into the J-profile groove 2 , insert the second edge into the groove of J-chamfer 1. Slide the panel into the middle of the grooves and secure with self-tapping screws (Fig. 13).

Do not attach the soffit too tightly. Leave a distance of approximately 0.8-1 mm between the lower edge of the screw head and the panel so that it has free movement horizontally (Fig. 14).

The self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the perforated hole. If the hole does not fit into the sheathing, make a hole with a notch (Fig. 19).

If the requirements for appearance binders allow you to leave the fasteners open, you can use Front bar 1 (Figure 16).

Fasten the J-profile 3 and Finish bar 2 , as described above.

Prepare the soffit panel so that the length of the panel is 10-20 mm less length eaves overhang from the wall to the edge of the front board.

Extension of the Frontal bar can be done with a simple overlay. The overlap between the slats is 25-50 mm.

A more aesthetic option that allows you to hide the cut edge is an option with bends on the joining edges (Fig. 17).

Prepare the planks as shown in the diagram. Bends are made 180° so that the planks fit tightly into the hook during installation. After joining, the joint can be tapped through the block with a mallet.

To create a turn, mark the fold line and make a cutout, as shown in Figure 18.

Bend the Front Strip along the line so that the cut edge at 45° is on the outside, and fasten as described above.

If rafters with a width of 200 mm or more are used, which are not cut horizontally, the front board can be quite wide, more than 250 mm. In this case, you can finish the front board with soffit panels 1 .

The figure shows a variant of the transition from the hem to the front board through the External Complex Corner Plank 2 (Fig. 19).

A less aesthetic, but simpler option is to use 2 J-profiles (Figure 20).

Install additional elements and soffit panels according to the rules described above.

The hemming option is quite popular, when the cornice box is not made, and the hemming is done directly along the rafters.

The figure shows an option using a standard J-bevel 1 , J-profile 2 and finishing strip 3 . The corner is bent to the required indicator using two boards or bars.

For this type of filing, almost all the variations described above for horizontal method fixing spotlights.

The rotation can be made both diagonally (Fig. 22, Fig. 23) and at a right angle (Fig. 22, Fig. 23). In both cases, an H-profile (Fig. 22, Fig. 24) or 2 J-profiles (Fig. 24, Fig. 25) can be used at the junction of the soffit panels. If you do not need to hide the fasteners, use a simple docking strip.

Fig.22	Fig.23

Fig.24	Fig.25

Before installing the plank, mark it, placing it at the installation site so that the gaps between the additional elements are minimal. Trim off the excess (Fig. 22). Secure the strip with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.