home · Lighting · Installing the window flush with the wall. Do-it-yourself invisible doors: the price of homemade interior doors. Working with arched windows

Installing the window flush with the wall. Do-it-yourself invisible doors: the price of homemade interior doors. Working with arched windows

Covering a house with siding yourself is quite simple. For such work you will not need to master any special skills. It is necessary to prepare thoroughly in advance. The quality of the result depends on how well all the subtleties of the process are thought out. The work includes not only the installation of panels, but also cladding ground floor and windows. That is why a beginner, when faced with the need to perform such work, often finds himself in a dead end. To understand the cladding process, you will need to read the step-by-step instructions for finishing a window with siding yourself.

Methods for finishing openings

When creating an attractive window treatment, the type of window is of utmost importance. installed window. It depends on what technology will be chosen for installing siding panels. There are several types of installation of double-glazed windows:


In each of these cases, finishing is carried out even before fixing wall panels, which will be located around the window. In this case, the edges of these elements simply need to be inserted into the groove on the edge of the profile. When performing finishing after installing the panels, the work will cause certain difficulties.

The installation technology is common to all siding panels. The screws should be tightened in the center of the mounting holes. In this case, a gap of 1 mm should be left for cases where thermal expansion will occur. This way the panels will move freely without deforming. If you follow this rule, installing siding panels on the window will be much easier.

Features of window siding finishing can be found in the video:

Attention! According to the instructions, during installation you can fix the elements in arbitrary places.

The sheathing bars must be fastened around the perimeter of the window. Small planks are installed on the slope. This will make it easier to install the finishing profile. The bars must be the same size. This will make the wall surface more even. All work is carried out with a level.

Preparatory stage

High-quality window finishing from the outside requires certain preparation. Such work includes:

  • removal of decorative elements;
  • cleaning the surface from old plaster;
  • removal of old wooden parts;
  • dismantling of communications.

In addition, technical devices and fixtures - antennas and air conditioners - are also removed. The surface is cleaned and dried. It is better to carry out such preparation if it is planned to cladding the entire façade of the building.

Frame installation

When deciding to decorate a window opening with siding, it is worth considering that before such work, lathing should be done. It will be needed for the following reasons:

  • so that the material is securely fastened;
  • it will be much easier to perform cladding;
  • to level the surface of the wall.

The following options are suitable for lathing:

  • wooden beam with a cross-section of 4x6 cm.
  • metallic profile.

Advice! Using wooden beam Before starting cladding, it is necessary to treat the elements with an antiseptic. This will help prevent the wood from rotting and being damaged by insects.

The frame parts are attached at a distance of 20 cm from each other. This step is optimal. If it is larger or smaller, the strength or aesthetics of the structure will decrease.

Insulation

Finishing windows during siding installation involves creating an insulating layer that will protect the window frame and the room behind it from the effects of cold. It is better to perform insulation polystyrene foam boards. It is mounted on dowels with wide heads.

Advice! To protect the insulation from moisture, a film should be laid on top.

Because during installation window frame To avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to prepare the sealant in advance. Thanks to the use of this material, it is possible to increase the hydro- and thermal insulation properties of the structure as a whole.

Window finishing technology

For each of similar cases actions may have different orders. Separately, you should familiarize yourself with the decoration of windows without slopes. Siding in this case includes the use of special platbands.


Advice! For greater reliability, the elements are sealed with sealant.

The panels are cut at the top and bottom of the window structure. The slot should be slightly narrower than the width of the window strip. You can learn more about the technology of cladding window structures with siding from the video:

Recessed structures

Window trims are great in cases where the window is not very deeply recessed into the wall. Thanks to the use of planks, the slopes are closed.

Then the window strip is placed in the hole finishing profile. When joining the planks on the vertical elements that connect to the slope, it is necessary to make special cutouts. Horizontal elements are cut and bent.

If the window is recessed quite deeply, the use of window strips is not required. For such structures, small pieces of wall panels are used. During the installation process, a corner is used.

Installation can be carried out using a special ebb. Its edges must be trimmed and folded under the vertical elements. To increase the reliability of fastening the ebb, a sealant is used.

Installation of siding on windows is carried out in the following order:

  • first, a J-profile is attached around the perimeter of the structure;
  • then the installation of pre-prepared elements of the frame panels is carried out;
  • At the final stage, the corner profile is installed.

During installation, you must follow the same rules as for the general installation of siding panels. Each connection should be created with a gap of 5 mm.

Attention! When performing work in autumn or winter, the gaps should be increased to 10-12 mm.

Arched windows

Such designs look great, but finishing them is fraught with some difficulties. Installing siding on arched windows is complicated by the presence of a curved part in the upper part of the structure.

For finishing, a J-profile is usually chosen, which is quite flexible. However, its cost is significantly higher than that of a regular one. For this reason, its standard counterpart is often chosen. To do this, several cuts should be made in a regular profile, which are made on the mounting part. It is then bent to give the required radius of curvature.

Attention! In some cases, cuts are created with front side products. If carried out carefully, this solution will become an effective design technique.

An alternative option is to replace the arched opening with a polygonal opening. The design of such a window is performed using the same technology. However, the profile cutting will be large.

The ease of bending a regular J-profile will depend on the material from which it is made. In the case of metal, it will yield much harder than plastic. To create an arc of the required radius of curvature, you should choose vinyl siding. To make bending easier, it should be warmed up well. However, do not overuse this - the plastic can easily melt.

conclusions

The overall impression of the facade of the house depends on how well the windows are finished. That is why such work should be treated with the utmost caution. The installation technology is determined by the shape of the window, as well as the degree of its recess into the wall. Such work will be simple even for a novice builder.

If you follow the suggested tips, finishing a window with siding will not be difficult, and the result will be pleasing to the eye.

Before facing it is better to take care of proper preparation opening. It should be cleaned thoroughly. To protect the interior from the cold, it is necessary to create a thermal insulation layer. It is made from polystyrene foam boards.

At correct execution When covering windows with siding, decorative elements will not be deformed under the influence of temperature changes and weather conditions. The process of finishing a window with siding can be learned from the video:

Today there is a lot of talk about correct installation plastic windows, “warm” installation of windows, while little attention is paid to such important factor like the location of a window in a wall. The WINDOWS MEDIA portal will tell you about common methods for installing windows in thick walls and the consequences of their work on the building.

With the widespread use of sealed windows, they are becoming increasingly important properties construction connections. As a result incorrect location windows in the wall can completely negate the benefits of using window design even with very good thermal insulation parameters.

Location of windows depending on wall design


To prevent uncontrolled heat loss around the windows, you need to install them in the right place:

  • Single-layer walls: the window frame should be located in the middle of their thickness;
  • Double-layer walls: The frame is mounted as close as possible to the front of the wall, in close proximity to the insulating layer. The best solution is the deposition of the frame so that the window fully or partially protrudes beyond the surface of the wall, and is surrounded by thermal insulation material around the perimeter;
  • Three-layer walls: windows must be installed in a layer of thermal insulation;
  • Prefabricated walls: By analogy with a single-layer wall, the frame is installed in the center, about half the thickness of the wall. However, if the wall is insulated from the outside, the same rule applies as for double-layer walls;

  • Insulated log walls: the insulating layer is here in the middle of the wall thickness - the frame should be installed in this line;
  • Log walls: Windows are installed in the same way as in the case of single-layer walls. If the logs are insulated from the outside, the same rule applies as for double-layer walls.

    WINDOWS MEDIA recommends reading: At what stage of construction should windows be installed (part 1)

Options for fixing windows in walls made of cellular concrete


For proper operation window important has a temperature of inner surface enclosing structure. To avoid damage that may be caused by moisture, the temperature in the entire separating plane inner part building, should be more than 13ºC. This is related to the so-called dew point. The dew point is the temperature at which the air, at a given temperature and relative humidity, is no longer able to accept more water. Dew point temperature is defined as the temperature at which relative humidity surface reaches 100%, and the air is saturated.


Below are various options for fixing windows in a wall made of cellular concrete 24 cm thick, with an outer layer of thermal insulation 15 cm thick. Additional terms: outside air temperature -5 °C, inside +20 °C.

  • The window is mounted in the middle of the wall thickness, the frame is not protected by a layer of insulation: Isotherms of 10 and 13 °C pass through half the thickness of the wall and very close to the inner surface of the window-wall junction. Very long distance between isotherms at temperatures below 13 °C. A significant part of the wall and assembly joints are cooled.
  • The window is mounted in the middle of the wall, the frame is covered with a layer of insulation: The 10 °C isotherm moves outward to a large extent, and the 13 °C isotherm moves closer to the outer surface of the wall. A significant part of the wall is cooled, but the temperature of the cross section of the assembly joint is higher.
  • The window is mounted at the level of the outer plane of the wall, the frame is not protected by a layer of insulation: The 10 and 13 °C isotherms shift by outside walls. Very high density isotherm on the side low temperatures.
  • The window is mounted at the level of the outer plane of the wall, the frame is protected by a layer of insulation: The 10 °C isotherm is completely outside the plane of the wall. Almost the entire section of the wall and the assembly joint have a temperature above 10 °C. The 13 °C isotherm is significantly removed from the inner surface of the assembly seam.
  • The window is mounted in an outer layer of insulation, the frame is not protected by a layer of insulation: The 10 and 13 °C isotherms are completely shifted to the outside of the wall. High concentration of isotherms on the low temperature side. Strong cooling of the assembly seam. The passage of the 13 °C isotherm is very close to the inner surface.
  • The window is mounted in an outer layer of insulation, the frame is protected by a layer of insulation: The 10 and 13 °C isotherms are shifted outward, deeper into the insulating layer. Low cooling of the assembly seam.

    Thus, it is least preferable to install a window in the middle of the wall thickness without protecting the frame with a layer of thermal insulation. In addition, in this embodiment, less light enters the room.

Correct location of the window in the wall


The best solution is to install the window in a layer of insulation and cover the frame with insulation. The protection of the window frame in each case significantly increases thermal characteristics assembly seam. To a large extent, this solution allows you to avoid problems with the formation of mold on the surface of the connection between the window and the wall.

In practice, experts recommend the following window installation:
- In old buildings when replacing windows in a wall without thermal insulation, install them in the middle of its thickness,
- In newly built houses, with an outer layer of insulation, install the window as close to the thermal insulation as possible. Ideal installation is in a layer of thermal insulation.

Methods for attaching windows to the wall


In order for the windows to be firmly fixed to the wall, the window frames should be connected to them through carefully selected systems of anchors and fasteners. Please note that one type of fastener is intended for walls made of hard materials, For example, sand-lime brick, aerated concrete, solid brick, and the other is used for hollow walls.

Special anchors are used to connect windows and wooden structures building. They must compensate for the stresses that arise at the junction between the window and the wall, which operates, among other things, as a result of changes in the moisture content of the wood.

The role of the window sill cannot be overestimated. After all, this is not only decorative element windows and rooms. The window sill participates in thermal insulation, preventing the penetration of cold air from the street. Therefore, installing this window element is a process that requires accuracy and strict adherence to the rules. This article is devoted to the installation of window sills.

What is window sill board made of?

The materials from which window sills are made today can be different. The type of window sill board determines the method of its installation.


Wood, such as oak, cherry, pine, for a long time was the most common material from which window sill boards were made. Wooden window sills do not lose their connoisseurs to this day. The wood is pre-dried and treated with antiseptic solutions and varnish.



The main advantage of a wooden window sill board is its natural origin and noble appearance. But such material is expensive, and solid wood products are subject to deformation. To preserve the window sill, you need to protect it from exposure to abrasives, water and aggressive chemical reagents, and also periodically update the coverage.


Boards made of laminated veneer lumber are less expensive and more resistant to external influences if they are made in compliance with the technology.

Chipboard and MDF

As a cheaper alternative to wood, many companies produce window sill boards made from chipboard or fibreboard. The products are covered with a special film on top. MDF is a more durable and moisture-resistant material compared to chipboard. If the integrity of the film is damaged, water that gets onto the slab from chips can lead to swelling and significant deformation. MDF is more expensive, but more stable.

Window sills made from wood chips or fiber are very easy to clean. The main thing is not to use abrasives.

Stone products


Connoisseurs natural materials stone window sill boards are often preferred. Most often it is granite or marble. Stone products are beautiful, each window sill has a unique pattern. But this pleasure is not cheap.

Moreover, on polished surfaces natural stone easy to leave a scratch. Stone window sills easily absorb dirt, such as coffee, wine or tea stains. And their thermal insulation is weak. Due to high cost and heavy weight, it is better to invite professionals to install a stone window sill.


An alternative to a natural stone window sill is a board made of artificial stone acrylic based. Such products are not inferior in strength, heat resistance and beauty, but at the same time they are cheaper and do not scratch.


PVC products in construction are becoming increasingly popular every year. This also applies to plastic window sills, which have a whole list of advantages.

PVC window sills also have disadvantages:

  • non-natural origin of the material;
  • laminating film that performs decorative role, may peel off and be easily scratched;
  • High temperatures, such as a hot pan, can cause the window sill to warp.

Nevertheless, plastic window sills Most often used for installation on your own.


How to mount a window sill

All window sills are installed according to general principle. Since plastic window sill boards are often preferred for DIY installation, we will describe in detail step by step instructions specifically for PVC window sills, noting at the end the features of installing structures made of other materials.


Before buying materials, it is necessary to correctly measure the place where the window sill will stand. The length of the window sill is determined as follows:


To determine the width of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the wall to the window. To the result obtained, add 1.5 - 2 cm to deepen the board into the window groove. This width is sufficient if you plan to install flush with the wall, which is feasible for smooth walls.


Note! When the walls are uneven, it is recommended to measure them on both sides of the window. This will allow you to adjust the window sill and install it evenly.

You can provide a protrusion, the size of which should not exceed 8 cm, so as not to interfere with the convection of air from the battery. After all, this will not only disrupt the uniform distribution of heat in the room, but also in cold weather will lead to damage to the window as a result of the formation of ice.

In accordance with the measurements obtained, the window sill is adjusted to the required length and width. Now you can begin installation.



Window sill installation

Step 1. Try on the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board if necessary.

Note! It is recommended to cut plastic and stone with a grinder; a jigsaw is more suitable for wood, MDF and chipboard.

Step 2. Use a hammer drill to make grooves in the walls if necessary. The edges of the window sill will go into these recesses.



Step 3: Clean the installation surface from dust and debris.

Step 4. The window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, having first removed it from the inserted edge. protective film.


Step 5. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill, starting from the outer ones and ending with the central ones. The substrates should not protrude beyond the walls and the inner edge of the window sill. The maximum distance between wedges should be 40 cm.



Step 6. Align the window sill with the spirit level. If there are deviations from the horizon, then correct with the help of additional wedges.


Note! The board should have a slope from the window to the inner edge of approximately 0.2 cm. This measure will prevent the accumulation of liquid near the window: the water will simply drain.


Step 7. Place a weight on the windowsill. Total load should be 10-20 kg.


Step 8. After we have additionally checked the horizontal position of the window sill board, we begin to secure it. For this purpose, polyurethane foam is used. It is better to take professional foam and a special spray gun. Additional fixation to the window profile is carried out from the outside using self-tapping screws.


Note! When foam gets where it shouldn’t be, it is removed immediately with a cloth. If it has already hardened, you can wipe off the foam using special solvents.

Step 9. After 24 hours, remove the weight and trim off excess foam.

Now you can install the plugs at the ends and remove the protective film.

If you decide to install a wooden window sill, then inside The boards must be attached with felt, which has undergone antiseptic treatment, using shingles. The ends of stone window sills are also protected with a felt layer before installation. Otherwise, the installation follows the same principle as for plastic products.

Thus, installing a window sill is not difficult, especially if we are talking about a plastic board. The main thing is to maintain accuracy in alignment when working and not to overdo it. polyurethane foam.

Video - Window sill installation

A plastic window provides high-quality insulation of space interior space from the street, but only if installed correctly. Errors when installing plastic windows negate the efforts made and money spent.

The production and installation of plastic window openings is a complex technological operation; it can only be performed by experienced specialist. However construction market filled with fly-by-night companies and unprofessional workers. It’s good if a window manufacturer was recommended to you by friends.

It's good when you are confident in the quality of the work being performed. But what to do if you found the manufacturer of double-glazed windows through an advertisement or were recommended to you by people you don’t know? Here is a list of criteria that will help you evaluate the quality of window installation and promptly detect mistakes made.

Error in matching geometric dimensions

The most common mistake made when installing plastic windows is incorrect measurements. Ideal window opening measurements are made during the construction process by measuring empty window openings.

In reality, plastic windows are often used to replace old (wooden) frames. In this case, measuring the opening becomes more difficult, since old frames take up space and make it difficult to estimate the dimensions accurately. Incorrect measurements will lead to incorrect geometry of the finished frame and glass unit. How to evaluate this at the stage of installing plastic windows?

The gaps between the plastic frame and the wall should be 3-4 cm. At the bottom, the gap may be larger, taking into account the required slope of the external ebb. Gaps that are too narrow will not cope with thermal expansion (with a plus, the plastic expands, with a minus, it contracts).

The frame rests against the wall, causing curvature. This will affect the decrease in durability, and possibly the appearance of cracks in the glass unit. In addition, the narrow gap is difficult to fill with foam. Because of this, unfilled holes remain, which will disrupt the tightness of the seam.

Too large gaps will not provide sufficient fastening of the frame to the wall; the structure will be shaky and unsafe.

Is it possible to fix the error? Sometimes yes, more often no. If deviations from the required dimensions are small and are directed towards reducing the width or height by a few centimeters, they can be compensated for with polyurethane foam. In all other cases, it is necessary to manufacture new plastic windows.

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Errors in the slopes of frames and double-glazed windows

Window measurement - typical diagram.

The frame and glass unit must be installed strictly vertically. The correspondence of the frame position to the verticals and horizontals is difficult to assess visually. Only significant tilts or shifts are visible to the naked eye. Small slopes (1-2º) are unacceptable in the installation of plastic windows, as well as significant deviations.

To evaluate horizontals or verticals, a building level is used. This tool looks like a large ruler. There are capsules with air bubbles on the side and in the middle of the ruler. The ruler is applied to the surface of the frame, and the location of the air bubble is visually assessed. When the surface is horizontal, the bubble of the side capsule is located exactly in the middle. The displacement of the bubble in any direction indicates that the frame is tilting to the right or left.

To assess the vertical, look at the capsule located in the middle of the ruler. It also has an air bubble, and it should also be in the middle.

Measurements are performed for three levels:

  • horizontal frame (a level is applied to one of the horizontal parts of the frame);
  • verticality of the frame in the plane of installation of the double-glazed window (the level is applied to the vertical part of the frame);
  • no tilt of the frame inward or outward (the level is applied to the inner surface of the vertical frame element).

Another way to visually assess the vertical installation of plastic windows is as follows. You need to open the window various options(open from the side or open with a window at the top) and leave, without holding it, in the open position. If there are no installation errors, the sash should not change its position and be in the same place where you left it. A persistent movement of the sash towards closing or, conversely, towards opening indicates an existing misalignment.

All of the above measurements are performed by the worker. The owner (customer of the work) only needs to come up and make sure correct position air bubble in the capsule.

What is the danger of non-compliance with spatial geometry? Even small deviations (1-2º) lead to a shift in the center of gravity and improper distribution of load in the structure. As a result, after some time the frame will warp. A sign of a misalignment is that the window is difficult to open (or it is not possible to open it at all).

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Error - insufficient installation depth

Insufficient distance between the double-glazed window and the outer surface of the wall will result in the windows getting wet in winter. This occurs due to the condensation of warm air on the cold glass of the window. If plastic construction located close to the line outer wall(at the same time, the outer window sill is narrow), the glass from the outside is exposed to sub-zero street air.

The outer glass is cooling. The cold is transferred to the inner glass. Following it, the warm air of the interior cools down. When warm air cools, moisture drops out of it. Drops of water condense on the cold surface of the glass and frame, flow down, collect in puddles on the windowsill, or are absorbed into things near the window (books, toys, phones). Similar processes occur when brought into the house from the street. glass jar. It quickly fogs up (becomes covered with small drops of water).

Condensation, or wetting, of windows does not occur if the glass unit is correctly positioned from the line of the outer wall. Installing a window in a recess of at least 1/3 of the wall thickness significantly limits the entry of cold air into the glass and frame. There is no cooling of the air layer along the glass unit - no condensation drops.

Some owners mistakenly believe that the process of condensation and wetting of windows occurs only in household premises. This is wrong. In domestic rooms (kitchen, bathroom), moisture condenses much faster and windows get wet more often. Window getting wet living rooms appears more slowly because the air contains less water vapor.

You need to know that any air contains a certain amount of water vapor. Thus, in the space of a residential apartment, the air humidity is 30-60%; with an increase in the number of people in the room, the humidity increases (a person constantly exhales carbon dioxide and water vapor). There is no absolutely dry air in rooms, therefore, wetting of windows is determined not only by the humidity of the room, it occurs when wrong depth installation and lack of ventilation.

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Errors in frame fastening

The frame is attached to the wall using special mounting plates. Their number on each of the four sides should be at least two, with a total of eight on one window. The lack of fastenings impairs the stability of the window structure and increases the possibility of it falling out in emergency situations: there is a strong hurricane wind or a child leans his back on the window. Even in the absence of force majeure, the lack of fastenings will affect their warping. Over time, the window will sag, become warped, and stop opening.

The lower frame of the window is installed on the so-called stops or lower blocks. After filling the gap with foam, the pads are not removed. They bear the main weight of the structure.

And now the most the hard part checks. You need to look at what is used to secure your windows to the wall. Possible options- using a plate or using a bolt. Both methods of attaching a window frame to an opening are used in the installation of swing structures. But with reservations.

Bolt (called anchor bolt) drills the profile completely, this happens with any rod fastening. The plate (called an anchor plate) is attached to the end with a galvanized self-tapping screw. In this case, the closed space inside the profile is not disturbed, the frame is not drilled, and the strength and durability of the profile are not reduced.

The length of the anchor bolt should ensure the strength of the installation of the structure. The rod is recessed into the wall by 4 cm, plus the width of the frame is 4 cm, plus the distance between the frame and the wall is 4-7 cm.

In what cases is it important to check how the window is attached to the wall:

  • if you are installing aluminum warm profiles;
  • if your wall contains internal insulation.

Inside aluminum profile There is a layer of thermal insulation. Drilling such a frame will lead to loss of thermal insulation properties. An experienced master should know this feature.

In a multilayer wall, the heat insulator can be inside (between the inner and external masonry) or outside (on a supporting wall, covered protective layer). The internal location of the insulation does not allow screwing in an anchor bolt, since there is low-strength insulation in the middle of the wall. Attaching plastic windows to the opening of a multilayer wall is done only with anchor plates.

All photos from the article

You can cover a house with siding yourself and quite quickly; you definitely don’t need any special skills for this. You just need to think through all the details in advance, because the work consists not only of installing panels on the wall sheathing, but also in designing the base, as well as window openings. It is the finishing of the window with siding that can confuse a beginner.

Window finishing methods

When finishing window openings with siding, the type of window plays a big role.

There may be such window installation options as:

  • flush with the wall. In this case, wide or narrow trims are used to decorate it. In terms of complexity of work, this is the simplest option;

Note! If you need to design an arched window, then it is better to use a narrow casing; its mounting part can simply be cut at a certain pitch and then bent. But if the bend radius is too large, then bending may become difficult.

  • the window is recessed into the wall to a shallow depth(no more than 200 mm). To design it you can use finishing bar or J-profile, and a special near-window siding strip will cover the slope;
  • For deeper recessed windows, the option of using offcuts of wall panels is suitable. Additionally, you will need a J-profile and a corner for decorating the outer corners.

In all the described cases, the finishing is done even before the wall panels are fixed around it. In this case, during installation, their edges will simply be inserted into the groove on the edge window profiles. If you start finishing after covering the walls, then it will be more difficult to do.

As for the technology itself, the general rules. That is, self-tapping screws/nails/staples should be placed in the center of the mounting holes, without fixing the profile rigidly, the gap between the head and the surface of the material should be approximately 1 mm, this will allow the element to move freely when the ambient temperature changes.

Note! The installation instructions allow for fixing elements in any location.

Also, a common point for all cases of window finishing can be considered the installation of lathing. The bars are attached around the perimeter of the window opening, and small strips will also need to be placed on the slope directly next to the frame, so that you can install the finishing profile or J-profile (for windows recessed into the wall).

Window finishing technology

For each case, the procedure is slightly different; it is also worth considering the finishing of arched windows separately.

Window without slopes

Covering the window with siding from the outside is carried out using special platbands or a regular J-profile.

  • First we check the width of the frame(the width of the window frame is measured);
  • Next you need to cut the platbands. They must be solid; the joints cannot be masked. Required length the strips are determined by the formula L = 2*b + l, where b is the width of the casing itself, and l is the length of the window frame;
  • profiles can be joined at a right angle or at an angle of 45ᵒ, there is not much difference, except that the joint at an angle looks better. When joining, it is imperative to ensure the tightness of the junction of horizontal and vertical elements; this is achieved due to the fact that a cutout is made on the side of the vertical strips, and the section on the horizontal ones is cut and bent;

Finishing a window recessed into the wall

Window strips are ideal when it is not very deeply recessed into the wall (up to 200 mm). Special strips completely cover the slopes, and the side parts of the trimmed wall panels are inserted into the grooves on the sides.

The design begins with installing the finishing profile directly next to the frame. If the slopes are concrete or brick, then it is better to install wooden block at the frame and attach the finishing profile to it.

After this, the window strip is inserted into the groove of the finishing profile, and its outer part attached to the sheathing around the perimeter of the opening. When joining the planks, cutouts are made on the vertical parts adjacent to the slope, and on the horizontal parts the material is cut and folded, this is necessary to ensure a tight joint.

At this point, finishing windows with siding with your own hands is considered complete.

If the window is recessed to a greater distance, then it will no longer be possible to use window trims. In this case, finishing is done using small pieces of wall panels, as well as a corner for decoration. external corner and J-profile.

A special flashing can be installed, its edges are trimmed and bent under the vertical strips. For greater reliability of fastening the ebb, you can use sealant (coat the joint between the ebb and the window frame).

Do-it-yourself window siding is installed as follows:

  • first, a J-profile is attached around the perimeter (the joint with the frame can also be coated with sealant);
  • Next, pre-prepared cut pieces of wall panels are installed;
  • The final stage is the installation of the corner profile.

During installation, the same rules apply as when installing siding in the general case. That is, all connections are made with 5-6 mm deformation gaps.

Note! If the work is carried out in the cold season, the size of the gaps increases to 10-12 mm.

Working with arched windows

Arched windows look great, but their finishing is somewhat more complicated than ordinary rectangular window openings. Finishing arched windows with siding is complicated by the fact that its upper part is curved.

For finishing, you can use a special flexible J-profile, but its price is noticeably higher than the cost of a regular one. Therefore, they often make do with its budget substitute - they take a simple profile and make deep cuts on the mounting part (the part in which there are holes for nails/screws), after which you can bend the profile, giving it the desired radius of curvature.

Note! Sometimes cuts are made on the front side of the profile; if this operation is performed carefully, it will look like an unusual design technique.

As an option, you can consider replacing the arched window opening with a polygonal one. In this case, to decorate it, the same technology is used as for finishing in a normal case, just large profile cutting.

If you decide to try to bend a regular J-profile, then great importance has a material, for example, a steel element will be more difficult to bend, so plastic is more suitable in this case. Window finishing vinyl siding will allow you to bend it into an arc without any problems the desired shape and secure it to the sheathing. To make bending easier, you can warm up the vinyl thoroughly, but without fanaticism, the plastic should not melt.

In conclusion

The overall impression of the house largely depends on the quality of window finishing, so you definitely shouldn’t treat this type of work with disdain. The technology largely depends on the shape of the window, as well as how far it is recessed into the wall, but this work is not difficult even for a beginner in the construction business.

And the suggested tips will help you avoid mistakes when finishing. The video in this article shows the window finishing process.

In the comments to the material, you can ask any question about finishing the window with siding.