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Insulation for attic roof. How to insulate an attic from the inside and what insulation to choose? Vapor permeable roof type

Modern "dry" construction technologies popular when arranging interior partitions and walls. And if previously wood or wood-based materials were mainly used for this, now plasterboard is the leader. It also confidently replaced plasters, which previously had no alternative when leveling the surface. And the only difficulty with this method is to correctly assemble the frame under the drywall and attach it to the wall.

Leveling a wall with plaster is technologically very difficult.
Considering that flat wall horizontal and vertical level is very rare; the geometry of the room is usually very different from the ideal. Any room can be checked with a laser level, and not a single parallel pair of opposite surfaces, as well as right angles, will be found.
If you plaster without reinforcing the surface with mesh, then the total thickness of the mortar should not be more than 5 cm. And this layer can only level the wall, but not correct general geometry defects. And the sheathing for drywall can be ideally positioned, taking into account all levels and exact compliance with the design angles.

The process of applying plaster is also not easy. It is necessary to set up and secure the entire system of beacons, apply three layers (spray, primer, covering), level and rub each of them. And this does not take into account the fact that each portion must be prepared separately, and it must be consumed before the solution begins to set. And the entire wall from corner to corner must be processed in one working day so that there are no “cold” seams - otherwise a crack will appear there over time.

That is, applying plaster requires professionalism from the performer, and covering walls with plasterboard can be done by any “home craftsman.”


The only drawback of this method is the reduction in the usable volume of the room. But if you do not take into account the thickness of the plasterboard (and it is no more than the leveling layer mortar), then we are talking about a loss of 30 mm on each wall if metal profiles are used for plasterboard, and 30-40 mm when installing lathing from wooden beam.

Sheathing features

Sheathing on sheathing interior walls has many advantages, the main thing is to know how to assemble the frame. One of the advantages is the possibility hidden gasket engineering communications and installation of some equipment. But in each case an “individual approach” is needed.
For example, in a kitchen, bathroom or toilet they lay plasterboard behind the lining. water pipes. And for mixers, it is necessary to provide a mortgage to which the water socket is attached. In these cases, it is necessary to make a gap between the main wall and the sheathing, taking into account the diameter of the pipes and the size of the fittings.
Even more space is required for installing a toilet installation - an additional frame is often made for it in the form of a “superstructure” from the general one.

Laying cables and wires does not require much space, but the standard socket box (mounting box) has a height of 45 mm. You must either retreat from the main wall by this distance, or make a recess in concrete or brick in advance.
Another advantage is the possibility of arranging decorative niches and shelves. Moreover, niches can also carry payload. For example, they are often made to hang a television panel on the wall.
And for its fastening it is necessary to provide embedded elements. And this is the only drawback that can be called for a plasterboard wall - in order to hang something heavy on it, this area must be reinforced with a profile or beam, and the load must be redistributed on the frame.

Preparing the walls

It is much easier to cover the walls with plasterboard in a new building - a whole range of measures is eliminated. Therefore, below is a list of works preparatory stage wall cladding for major renovation old housing:
Depending on the finishing of the walls, they dismantle the old paneling, remove the wallpaper, and clean the crumbling areas of the plaster.
Inspect the surface for cracks and crevices. If any are found, they must be sealed with a repair compound. For bricks, foam blocks and concrete - these are polymer-sand mixtures, polyurethane foam or sealants. Such measures are necessary to improve the thermal insulation of external walls and the sound insulation properties of internal partitions.

Having previously de-energized the network, remove the wall lighting, switches and sockets, insulate exposed wires. If cables are to be replaced, they are dismantled down to the junction boxes.
Porous and weak surfaces are treated with a strengthening primer deep penetration, wooden walls- antiseptic composition.

Marking for frame installation

When you just need to level the walls, without arranging niches, installations or laying pipes, then the loss of useful volume can be minimized. For surfaces with minor “relief” defects, minimal deviations from the horizontal and vertical levels, there is a way to attach drywall to the wall without lathing.
This is a standard technology for fixing slabs using glue, which is applied to the reverse side either evenly (with a notched trowel) or in a strip around the perimeter and “flat cakes” on the rest.

In other cases, installation of the sheathing is necessary, and markings are required for its installation. When working with “volumetric” structures, it is better to use laser level, but you can do it the traditional way.

To do this you will need the following tools:

  • construction corner;
  • roulette;
  • plumb line;
  • level;
  • chop cord;
  • ordinary twine;
  • pencil.

The process itself looks like this:
Find the most protruding area on the surface. And if this is not a swelling or swelling of the plaster that can be cut off, then such a place is taken as a starting point. From it, stepping back a little from the wall, using a plumb line, transfer the projection of the “zero” to the floor. The same mark is made on the ceiling. Therefore, a small gap is needed so that the plumb line does not “catch” the wall. Mark the first line on the floor and check its perpendicularity to the adjacent walls. Having retreated a certain distance along the edges, mark the following points. Transfer their projections to the ceiling.
The top line is beaten parallel to the bottom line.
If the entire room is covered with plasterboard, markings for all walls are carried out using this algorithm. In this case, you can make the geometry of the room correct. For a square or rectangle, the easiest way is to check the equality of the diagonals, and, if necessary, adjust the markings so that the corners are right and the lines are parallel.

Then the verticals are “beaten off” for the installation of direct hangers, with the help of which the profiles are attached to the wall. To do this, on the floor and ceiling, departing about 10 cm from the corner, lay down points on both lines in increments of 60 cm and transfer them to the wall. This size is a multiple of the width of the plasterboard sheet of 120 cm, and it ensures the presence of a central stiffening rib, and the seams will lie exactly in the middle of the vertical elements of the sheathing. The resulting marks are connected by lines.
After this, you can proceed to installing the frame.

Frame installation

There are two options for securing drywall to the wall using lathing:
modern technology using metal profiles;
the classic way of covering planes using wooden beams.

Metallic profile

In order to save useful volume, the lathing for wall cladding is made from CD ceiling metal profiles, the height of which is only 28 mm, and the size of the mounting shelf is 60 mm. They are paired with UD guides, with a base width of 28 mm and a height of 27 mm.

Note. This is not the only item in the range Knauf company with such small profile sizes. There are also U-like elastic tires for “small-sized” plasterboard covering of flat wooden planes. They are used as lathing for attics or false ceilings. And if the task is to finish the walls of timber or frame house using drywall (for example, tiles, decorative plaster or wallpaper for painting) - then this is one of the best options.

In addition to these “branded” CD and UD profiles with a metal thickness of 0.6 mm, domestic producers They produce their analogues with thinner walls - 0.45-0.55 mm. This, of course, leads to a decrease in strength, but the sheathing is not a partition, and the connection with the main wall will provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.

The only condition is that when installing a frame made of such a metal profile on a wall, you must reduce the spacing of the attachment points by 20%. There are also “economic systems”. These are sets of analogues of the UD guide profile with a width of 17 mm, and the rack CD with a width of 47 mm. They are specially produced for covering the walls of small rooms - toilets, bathrooms and dressing rooms.

Installation of a frame made of metal profiles

First, guide profiles for drywall are attached to the floor and ceiling. Dowels (or anchors) are selected depending on the nature of the materials, the pitch of the fixing points is 40-60 cm.

Advice. To reduce the level of structural noise, the guides to the surface are mounted with a 30 mm wide soundproofing tape.

Then you need to attach straight hangers to the walls. Vertical layout pitch - 80-100 cm. For indoors standard height 3 pieces are enough.
CD profiles are inserted between the guides, attached to the hangers, the level is checked and finally fixed at the top and bottom.

The length of a standard plasterboard sheet may not be enough to cover a section of the wall from floor to ceiling with one piece. Therefore, additional jumpers are attached from above and below, alternately, between the racks so that the seam of the whole sheet and the additional piece of gypsum board falls in the middle of this profile.

Shifting the layout is necessary so that the horizontal joints do not converge into one line and do not form an X-shaped intersection with the vertical ones. Example: if the length of the sheet is 200 cm, then in the first span an additional rib is mounted at this distance from the floor, and in the second - from the ceiling.

Wooden beam

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame satisfies the conditions of dry rooms. The recommended cross-sectional size of the timber is 40x60 mm. This thickness is sufficient to support the weight of the plasterboard. And the width is to ensure the recommended location of the attachment points relative to the ends of the sheet (10mm) and the ribs of the beam (20mm).

Otherwise, the wooden frame has a standard structure - the distances between the posts and lintels are the same as between the profiles. Only the methods of attaching the elements to each other differ. For this, perforated steel corners are usually used so that all the components of the sheathing are located in the same plane.

Installation of drywall is the process of covering surfaces with plasterboard sheets. This is the most economical and quick way hide existing unevenness in the base. Finishing walls using this material is preliminary work before applying plaster, paint or wallpapering the walls. In addition to leveling, installing drywall allows you to insulate and soundproof the room.

To install drywall yourself, you will need a number of special tools, which are best prepared in advance. Each stage of work has its own tools to make the work process as convenient as possible.

Marking tools:

  • Level, laser level;
  • Plumb;
  • Roulette;
  • Pencil;
  • Dying lace.

When making a frame you will need:

  • Hammer;
  • Hammer;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Pliers;
  • Metal scissors.

When working with plasterboard sheets, you should use the following tools:

  • Hacksaw;
  • Rail of the required length;
  • Sharp knife;
  • Plane.

To properly seal screw holes, sheet joints and corners, you should prepare the following tools:

  • Spatulas;
  • Container in which mixtures will be mixed;
  • Rollers and brushes for priming;
  • Grater with mesh or sandpaper.

Of course, when working, you can not use all of the above tools or replace them with alternative accessories.

Drywall mounting options

Modern technology There are two ways to install drywall:

The use of any method should ensure the fulfillment of the main task - even, reliable and durable fastening of drywall sheets located in the same plane.

Each of the options is reliable and durable, the main thing is to carry out the installation efficiently.

We fasten without a frame

For use when installing frame method the wall covering should not consist of peeling materials, be dry, dust-free and unpainted with enamel or oil paint. When using cement-polymer or gypsum glue, the base must be strong, primed and fairly level (only small differences are allowed). It is impossible to lay thermal insulation under drywall constructed in this way, so you have to use a foam insulation cycle. The advantages of the frameless method are: excellent sound insulation from structural noise, minimum set tools used, a small distance from the front surface to the base.

Installation of drywall using a frameless method using evenly applied adhesive

Frame method - high quality, reliable

This method involves installing sheets on a ready-made frame assembled from metal profiles or wooden beams. Frame method suitable for more complex repair work, for example, when creating an arch or a multi-level complex ceiling structure. For similar works this type installation is considered the most reliable.

For the manufacture of metal frame a profile made of galvanized steel is used, which has a non-through notch for rigidity and through holes, intended for its fastening to the surface. It should be noted that when installed using this method, poor sound insulation is achieved, requiring the use of additional measures to ensure it. The disadvantages include a fairly large set of tools needed to complete the work. The metal profile frame is durable and moisture resistant, and is distinguished by the standardization of the elements used. The advantage of this frame is its use on surfaces with large unevenness and the existing possibility of laying thermal insulation.

A frame made of metal profiles makes it possible to lay communications and a layer of insulation under the plasterboard

To make a wooden frame, dry, even, planed timber is used. Undoubtedly, this type of frame is distinguished by its environmentally friendly material, has good sound insulation and allows for additional thermal insulation. After assembly wooden frame it should be treated with a special impregnation that protects the material from moisture, mold, rot, and bugs.

Marking the surface for mounting the frame

To ensure quality repair work, the surface must be marked.

The marking of the walls is carried out in the following sequence. It is necessary to measure a distance of 5-6 cm from the corner and draw a vertical line on the adjacent wall. Similarly, you need to draw a line on the opposite wall and use a long strip to connect these lines on the ceiling and floor. Next, vertical lines should be marked from the corner of the wall at a distance of 60 cm and marks should be made on them in a checkerboard pattern every 50 cm - these will be the place for mounting the mounting suspension.

Marking walls for a frame made of metal profiles

When installing drywall on the ceiling, the first thing to note is the horizontal level of the room. To do this, you can use a laser level or a hydraulic level. In all internal and external corners Small marks are placed in the room, then the distance from these marks to the ceiling is measured in each corner and a mark is made with the value of the resulting distance. This manipulation is needed to determine the lowest point of the ceiling from which to push off when lowering it.

It is important! When installing frames, the ceiling is lowered at least 4 cm from its lowest point.

The found height is marked in each corner, and the resulting marks are connected using a strip with horizontal lines. Next, the profile is installed around the perimeter. Marks are placed on the surface of the ceiling along the wall at intervals of 40 cm. Marks are placed on the opposite side in the same way, then the resulting points are connected by parallel lines. Marks are placed on each line at intervals of 50 cm in a checkerboard pattern, identifying the mounting locations for the suspension.

Wiring under drywall

After setting all the profiles, you should begin to carry out communications: electrical wiring, network, telephone and TV cables.

Something to remember! Rules for installing electrical equipment require placing those located behind plasterboard sheathing power wires into a corrugated pipe that does not support combustion. This can be a metal hose or a plastic corrugation marked NG (non-flammable).

Wires with safe voltage do not need corrugation, but it can protect the wiring from damage by the sharp edges of the metal frame.

At this stage, you should consider the number of required consumption points, decide on their location and the passage of wires.

It is important to know! The wire must run vertically from the outlet or switch, and the horizontal sections of its passage must be located at the same height as the distribution boxes.

It is advisable to graphically depict how the wire will pass in order to avoid problems when laying it in the future.

Marking the wire passage

The wires are fixed to the wall; for ease of connecting sockets, the length of the wires should be left with a small margin from the surface.

How to cut correctly

To cut a sheet of drywall correctly and efficiently, you will need the following tools: a long strip, a pencil, a tape measure, a sharp knife.

Execute this work very simple, just follow the steps:


Any uneven ends or protruding paper should be sanded using a plane designed for drywall, a wood file or a float with sandpaper. IN end result we get a piece of drywall sheet required size with neat, smooth edges.

Refinishing the ends of drywall - sanding the cut with a plane

Chamfering drywall

When joining sheets with non-manufactured edges, chamfer should be chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees. First, the paper is cut parallel to the cut with a distance of 1 cm from the edge, and then the chamfer is removed with a knife.

Chamfering

How to make a cutout

There are two types of cuts: at the edge and in the middle of the sheet.

To make a cut from the edge, you need to mark and cut the paper on one side with a knife, then use a jigsaw or hacksaw to make two cuts in the direction from the edge. The plasterboard sheet should be broken and the paper cut on the back side.

A cut is made on a sheet of drywall sharp knife along a pre-drawn line

To cut a hole in the middle of a sheet, you should saw through three sides and then break it. Or immediately cut out the hole completely.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on profiles

After installing the frame and carrying out preparatory work You should immediately begin installing drywall. There is one mounting method for walls and ceilings. It is necessary to attach the sheet closely to the finished frame so that one edge of the sheet is located flush against the wall. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the profiles using self-tapping screws.

When performing work, it is necessary to deepen the screw to such a distance that the top does not protrude, but is not too deep. It should be noted that when the top cardboard layer breaks, the fastening site relaxes. The distance between the screws should be 20-25 cm.

If the height of the ceilings is greater than the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet, then it is necessary to secure an intermediate profile. All parts of the sheet must be secured, otherwise the joint will constantly crack. In this situation, subsequent panels need to be launched at intervals, in a checkerboard pattern - a whole sheet at the bottom, trimming at the top and vice versa. Using this method, the reliability of the entire structure is achieved.

Treatment of seams and recesses from self-tapping screws

After completing the installation of the plasterboard sheets, the joints of the sheets should be processed and the recesses from the screws should be filled with putty. For joints use gypsum mixture, which, when dried, forms a very durable material. Chamfered edges must be primed.

A reinforcing mesh 80-100 mm wide is glued to all joints with the factory edge. In a situation where one or both edges of the sheet are chamfered, the mesh should be cut lengthwise and not allowed to go out of plane. If in this case you use a reinforcing mesh of normal width, you will have to putty the entire surface with a layer 1-2 mm larger.

Attention! The reinforcing mesh should always be located in the middle of the putty.

About 60% of the recess volume is filled with the first layer of putty, then the mesh must be immersed in the putty and smoothed. At the end, the remaining volume of the recess is filled.

The recesses from the self-tapping screws also need to be filled with putty; to do this, you need to run a spatula into different directions to fill the hole with putty. As it dries, it shrinks a little, which is normal. Final processing deepening is carried out finishing putty.

Putty, primer before finishing

It is advisable to putty the surface of the drywall under the wallpaper with finishing putty, which will ensure its uniform color. The strength of their adhesion will not change during this work. Before wallpapering the walls, the putty must be primed.

You can stick tiles onto drywall directly onto the cardboard surface, only before doing this you need to prime it.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation - video instructions

Having become familiar with step-by-step implementation work, you can safely install drywall yourself. This process— do-it-yourself drywall installation video instructions describe visually, allowing you to understand all the nuances. This article discusses the basics of drywall installation technology, which allows all repair work to be carried out efficiently.

To answer questions about how to install drywall, the video lesson provides detailed answers and practical recommendations.

When performing construction work independently, everything more people today they prefer to use innovative materials and technology.

This circumstance is associated with completely new possibilities that can be obtained as a result of the use of products of this kind. Moreover modern materials They are also distinguished by their multifunctionality, that is, the ability to simultaneously solve several problems.

So, for example, using permanent formwork made of foam plastic allows you to erect structures in a short time and at the same time obtain stunning consumer characteristics. The active introduction of siding helps to carry out finishing work at a high quality level, and at the same time improve the operational criteria of the structure. Plastic pipelines are characterized by quick installation and minimal maintenance requirements.

A separate niche in the category finishing materials It also takes up drywall. Material with which you can as soon as possible carry out finishing work, make light partitions, organize additional heat and sound insulation of the room. - but difficult process, but can still be done by hand.

Of course, the implementation of these measures requires high skill, professionalism and experience in carrying out similar work from the work manufacturer, but if certain recommendations are followed, installing drywall on the walls can be done independently.

Although in some cases it is more expedient to use a frameless method of installing gypsum boards, the most common method of installing drywall on walls is to fix the panels onto a pre-mounted supporting frame. This circumstance is caused by the many advantages of the frame installation method:

  • Possibility of leveling walls with varying degrees of surface differences;
  • Speed ​​of work completion and elimination of wet operations;
  • Possibility of laying engineering systems and additional insulating materials in a free cavity load-bearing frame;
  • Irreproachable appearance plasterboard walls and an excellent basis for performing finishing operations of any type (wallpapering, tiling, painting).

However, we should not forget about the shortcomings of this method of wall decoration. Firstly, this is low maintainability, and secondly, a reduction in the useful volume of the room due to the need to construct a load-bearing frame. But in most cases, such shortcomings are neglected and preference is still given to the presented finishing method. In view of this, we consider it advisable to consider the method of installing drywall on walls with your own hands using the frame method.

Preparing to install drywall on walls

At this stage, you will need to perform a number of works, namely: prepare everything necessary materials and tools, provide access to the structures being finished, and prepare the walls themselves. Let us consider in more detail each of the listed stages:

Procurement of materials consists of purchasing a given number of products to complete installation work. In this case, installing plasterboard on walls involves purchasing the plasterboard itself, metal profiles or wooden slats for the construction of a frame, fastening elements (dowels, screws). In this case, it is necessary to take into account some features in order to purchase the material in the most optimal quantity.

So, as for plasterboard, it is most often sold in sheets with dimensions of 1200x2500mm (width x length). Therefore, perform the calculation required drywall preferably taking into account it overall dimensions. In addition, when purchasing gypsum plasterboard, it is advisable to take into account the intended location of its installation and order material with the appropriate technical characteristics (standard, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, etc.). When plasterboard is intended to be used as false panels for the manufacture of a fireplace, it is recommended to additionally purchase thermal insulation materials.

More detailed information about the types and sizes of plasterboard sheets can be found at the following link:

If we talk about materials for constructing the frame, then guides and rack profiles are most often used for these purposes. In addition, you may need all kinds of connectors, crosses, mounting hangers, and metal screws.

Preparing the working tool is also very important point at self-installation drywall. Typically, the following devices are used for these purposes:

  1. Hammer;
  2. Hammer;
  3. Assembly knife;
  4. Metal scissors;
  5. A screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws.

Preparation of base wall surfaces includes ensuring free access to the object, removing all easily peelable objects from the surface, and repairing deformed bases if necessary.

Marking the room

Before leveling the walls with plasterboard, mark the installation sites for finishing materials. Moreover, this operation must be approached with maximum responsibility in order to facilitate the process of installing drywall and minimize the consumption of materials.

Perform the markings in the following sequence:

Having stepped back from the plane of the base wall to a distance sufficient for laying insulation and communications, screws are drilled into the ceiling at the extreme points (corners) of the wall. Then plumb lines are tied to them and counter fasteners are installed (to the floor) at the points of contact with the floor. Then, stretching a common cord between the ceiling screws, and a similar cord between the floor screws, mark baselines, which will indicate the installation locations of the supporting frame profiles. All remaining walls of the room are marked in the same way. After all the marking lines have been drawn, the screws and tapping cords are removed and proceed to the next stage.

In order for the installation of drywall on walls to occur with maximum efficiency, the following recommendations must be followed when performing marking operations:

  • Be sure to use a building level or plumb line;
  • Retreat such a distance from the surface of the wall so as to occupy a minimum free space premises, but at the same time freely install gypsum boards;
  • Markings can be done using a pencil or using special dyes.

Next, markings are made on the walls, the purpose of which is to indicate the installation locations of the rack profiles. Therefore, it must be applied in vertical lines in increments of 0.4 or 0.6 meters (so that the ends of adjacent sheets lie on the same profile).

Construction of a supporting frame for installing drywall

Along pre-marked marking lines, profile guides are attached to the surface of the floor and ceiling. For this purpose, they usually use a puncher to make appropriate recesses in the ceiling and floor surfaces and install dowels in them. And the profiles are screwed to them using screws.

It is important to understand here that the reliability of the entire structure depends on the correctness of this procedure, therefore the spacing of the fastening elements for fixing the guide profiles is taken in the range from 0.4 to 0.6 meters (depending on the expected load on the plasterboard walls) and the elements are properly fixed .

At the next stage, the profile guides are attached to the walls in the same way, comparing them between the upper and lower profile systems. That is, the work must be performed in such a way that all profile guides are located in a single plane.

At the next stage, using vertical markings on the walls, installation hangers are installed, which will subsequently hold the rack profiles, creating additional rigidity for the entire structure. They are also fixed using dowels, but it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. Place hangers on each line in increments of no more than 60cm;
  2. On adjacent rows, make an offset when placing fasteners to increase the future rigidity of the base of the frame.
  3. When constructing a plasterboard arch, use additional elements perforation.

After this, the rack profiles are mounted to the frame. To do this, they are inserted into the cavities of the upper and lower guide profiles and screwed at the joints using self-tapping screws not only to the profiles, but also to direct hangers, and the ears protruding outward are bent inside the frame.

When performing this operation, it may be necessary to extend or cut off the rack profiles, since their length must be equal to the height of the walls.

Thus, building up elements can be done using special connectors and self-tapping screws, while cutting off excess can be done using ordinary metal scissors.

All surfaces to be finished should be equipped in a similar way. In addition, it should be noted that to enhance rigidity and improve the fastening of drywall, it is recommended to install transverse profiles, similarly fixing them to vertical elements using fasteners.

Final installation of drywall on the walls

Before leveling the walls with plasterboard, it is advisable to resolve the issue of insulating the room and its sound insulation. This must be done before the walls are covered with plasterboard. Such materials can be glass wool, isover, cork, foam, which are placed in the empty cavities of the supporting frame. Also at the previous stage it is recommended to lay out all engineering systems and communications.

Drywall should be fastened to the frame using metal screws, observing an installation step of 30-40 cm. At the same time, the sheets should be fixed to all rigid elements of the supporting frame.

Installation of drywall on walls must take into account certain requirements, we list the main ones:

  • The panels must be fastened in a checkerboard pattern (a whole sheet at the bottom, a section at the top - a section at the bottom, a whole sheet at the top);
  • Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the material at right angles, and their heads must be recessed into the gypsum board by at least 1 mm;

  • All sheets must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center; free sagging of the material is not allowed (the ends of the panels must be laid on the base of the profile;
  • When securing the sheet with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to make a minimum indentation from the ends of the drywall: for a factory joint 10mm, for a cut joint 15mm;
  • Cut the material using a mounting knife or a special cutter.

After all surfaces are covered with plasterboard, we proceed to implementation. finishing works(sanding, painting, pasting, etc.).

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.


Often there is a need to level the walls in an apartment. One of the simplest and available funds is the installation of drywall, and by doing it yourself you can significantly save your family budget.

Material selection

Types and purpose of drywall

Before you start working directly, you need to decide on the required material.

In any good hardware store you will be offered a choice of 4 types of drywall, this

  • GKL - regular plasterboard sheet gray with black or blue marking lines, which is suitable for normal dry heated rooms. It is used for both walls and ceilings. The thickness is 6 mm, 9 mm, 12.5 mm. For walls, ceilings and partitions, it is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The remaining sizes are intended for arched, curved structures and radius surfaces.
  • GKLV — moisture resistant plasterboard sheet green with black or blue markings. The manufacturer adds antifungal impurities to the plaster itself, and the cardboard covering is made moisture resistant. This type of plasterboard is used for finishing rooms with high humidity (ex: bathroom).
  • GKLO — fire resistant plasterboard sheet red with black or blue markings. It contains reinforcing components in gypsum, which increase resistance to open flames. Used for finishing production premises, ventilation, attics, electrical panels.
  • GKLVO — plasterboard sheet is moisture-resistant and fire-resistant green with red markings. It combines the properties of GKLV and GKLO. It is used for finishing industrial premises with high humidity and having increased requirements for compliance with fire safety standards.

Types of drywall edges:

  • PC, SK – transverse cutting edge of gypsum boards not covered with cardboard;
  • PC, VK – rectangular longitudinal edge for dry installation without joint putty;
  • ZK – rounded edge. It is used when using dry plaster without serpyanka;
  • FK – transverse cutting edge, intended for puttying joints without reinforcing tapes with an open gypsum core;
  • UK, AK - beveled (crimped), thinned edge, intended for pasting sickle and puttying seams;
  • PLUK, НRAK – semicircular, beveled along the length (thinned) edge, for pasting sickle and puttying seams;
  • PLC, HRK – semicircular longitudinal edge, designed for puttying seams without serpyanka.

Advice: choose drywall marked UK and PLUK to avoid the formation of protrusions due to which the layer of putty increases when finishing!

What to look for when buying drywall:

    • Drywall is supplied to the store in packs, the bottom sheets of which are packaging and most often have a thickness of 12 mm. They are necessary to prevent damage to the main product sheets. Careless sellers, trying to make money, sell them, although they are defective and must be disposed of;
    • all corners must be intact, without signs of crumbling, the cardboard must not be damaged;
    • sheets should be stored in dry warehouses in a horizontal position;

Selecting profiles for the frame

For installation of walls or construction of partitions from plasterboard use the following types profiles:

  • PS (CD) - rack profile. Used as vertical racks frame. Size range for this profile:
    • 50/50-a*b=48.8mm*48.5mm;
    • 65/50-a*b=63.8mm*48.5mm;
    • 75/50-a*b=73.8mm*48.5mm;
    • 100/50-a*b=98.8mm*48.5mm.

Installation of the rack profile is carried out in a guide profile of the appropriate size;

  • Mon (UD) — guide profile. Mainly used around the perimeter of the wall. Size range for this profile:
    • 50/40-48.8*38.5 mm;
    • 65/40-63.8*38.5 mm;
    • 75/40-73.8*38.5 mm;
    • 100/40-98.8*38.5 mm;
    • 28/27-28*27 mm;
    • 28/18-28*18 mm.
  • Very often used as a rack profile ceiling profile PP, it is available in only one size - 60x27 mm, so PN 28/27 is used with it. The PS profile is used mainly for the construction of partitions.

Advice: When purchasing a profile, you should pay attention to its quality. The profile should be chosen rigid, this will improve the quality of the work performed

U-shaped hangers are used to attach rack profiles to the wall.

Calculation of required material

Before going to a hardware store, you need to decide on the amount of material you will need.

Drywall calculation

To buy drywall, you need to calculate how many sheets we need, to do this we do the following:

  • calculate the area of ​​the wall or walls that you are going to sew up by multiplying the height and width of the walls;
  • if there are door or window openings, calculate their area and subtract it from the total area of ​​the walls;
  • Since during work there are always unusable pieces left from trimming, it is necessary to add another 10-15% to the resulting final area;
  • When covering a wall in two layers, multiply the resulting number by two.

Profile calculation

To calculate the number of profiles, you can use the following sequence:

  • Measure the height and length of the wall on which we will mount the frame.
  • The number of guides (UD) is calculated using the formula: (wall height * 2 + length * 2) * 1.2 (correction factor) / 3 (length of one UD) = sum of profiles, which is rounded up.
  • We calculate the number of rack-mount (CD) profiles using the formula: (length of the room in centimeters/60 centimeters) * 1.2 (correction factor) -1 = number of CDs, which is also rounded up.
  • We calculate the amount of U-shaped suspensions using the formula: number CD *5.

Calculation of fasteners

Calculation of the number of screws for drywall is carried out as follows:

  • if the wall is sewn up in one layer, then the sheets are screwed in increments of no more than 25 cm with self-tapping screws 28 mm long;
  • if the wall is sewn up in two layers, then the first layer is rotated in increments of 60 cm with screws 28 mm long, and the second layer in increments of 25 cm with screws 35 mm long so that they reach the profiles;
  • based on size standard sheet drywall (1200mm by 2500mm) we get an approximate number of screws (do not forget to add 10-15%) - 1st layer - 16 pcs. per sheet, 2nd layer - 35 pcs. per sheet.

The number of dowels for fastening the guide profile and U-shaped hangers is calculated as follows:

  • divide the length of one guide profile in centimeters (300cm) by the recommended fastening step of 40cm, not forgetting to add 10-15% to the resulting number for the reserve and multiply the final number by the quantity of the purchased PN profile;
  • There are 2 dowels for each U-shaped suspension.

Dowels measuring 6x40 mm with a mushroom cap are used as standard.

Quantity calculation screws (press washers) for attaching the rack profile is carried out as follows:

  • if the rack profiles are not spliced ​​(wall height<3 метров), то количество прессшайб около 4 шт. на профиль, без учета крепления к П-образному подвесу на который приходится ещё по 2 прессшайбы на 1 подвес;
  • if rack profiles are spliced ​​(wall height >3 meters), then the number of press washers increases to 8 pcs.

Required Tools

You can read more about all the tools in the article

Marking and installation of the frame

Before marking and installing the frame, you need to prepare workplace. If there was wallpaper on the walls before, then it is advisable to peel them off and soak the wall with an antifungal primer, but if the room is dry and without variable humidity, this step can be skipped.

Sequence of work:

  • find the most protruding part of the wall and project it onto the floor, set the width of the guide profile from this point and use a laser or string to make markings along the entire wall.

Advice: It is rare to find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. Especially in old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking the future frame, you should take this into account and tie it not to one wall, but to two parallel ones. In this case, the distances are averaged. This way you will avoid visual curvature of the resulting room.

Having made the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you can use a plumb line or a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

If you have an assistant, then by inserting a rack profile, cut to the height of the wall, into the guide, using a building level, you can move the point from the floor to the ceiling.

When all the lines have been drawn, you can begin installing the guide profile. All profiles that are attached to existing structures, are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The profile guides are attached first to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowel nails every 40-50 cm and along the edges.

After installing the guide profile, the rack profiles are set at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measured from the centers of the profiles. The length of the rack profile should be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the height of the wall, otherwise it will be under tension and give uneven surface walls.

Advice: craftsmen do not recommend leaving strips of plasterboard less than 10 cm in length, so if the length of the wall is not a multiple of the number of sheets of plasterboard and there is just a strip of 10 centimeters or less left, then you should move the first and subsequent profiles so that sheets of width are laid from the edges of the wall more than 10 cm (preferably 30-40 cm).

When all the rack profiles are exposed, it is necessary to strengthen the structure with U-shaped hangers, making sure that all the profiles remain in the same plane.

After fixing the hangers, we place jumpers between the rack profiles in increments of 60 cm.

In order to save material, sometimes not all jumpers are installed, but only at the level of possible future loads according to the knee-belt-shoulder rule.

The lintels are made from the same profile as the frame posts. I use crabs to attach them to the posts, but most often they use self-tapping screws. To do this, the rack profile is cut into 60 cm sections and the side walls are cut off at 4-5 cm lengths along each edge with scissors to form an ear that is attached to the rack profile with press washers.

If you plan to insulate or soundproof the wall, as well as all the wiring is done before attaching the plasterboard sheets to the frame.

After installing all the jumpers and all additional operations, you can proceed to attaching the drywall to the frame.

Installation of drywall on the frame

Fastening the drywall should be done in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no joining line along the entire wall, along which a crack may occur during the operation of the room. If the wall is sheathed in two layers, then the seams of the first layer should also not coincide with the seams of the second layer.

You should start attaching the sheet to the profile from the middle, gradually moving to the edges or from one corner to another, in order to avoid loose contact of the sheets to the frame. The recommended fastening step with self-tapping screws is no more than 25 cm.

The gap between the sheets and the floor should be within 10 mm to avoid warping of the sheets floor covering during its free movement when walking.

The sheets should not fit tightly to each other; there should be a gap between them within 5 mm.

At first, you can only roll whole sheets, and leave the trimming for later, this way you will save yourself time by not constantly switching to different operations.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the drywall at right angles. The heads of the screws must be completely recessed into the sheet; this is necessary for trouble-free further puttying of the walls.

After the entire wall is covered with sheets of plasterboard, we cut the chamfer at all non-factory joints at an angle of approximately 45′ (on each side of the joint we cut the plaster at an angle of approximately 20-22′). This is necessary so that after plastering the walls the joints are not noticeable.

You can watch approximate work on installing plasterboard walls in the following video:

Finishing the wall

After completing the installation of drywall on the frame, you can begin finishing the wall, which consists of puttingtying the surface of the entire wall.

Before puttying, it is necessary to prime the entire wall, special attention should be paid to the joints of plasterboard sheets.

First of all, fill all the seams of the head of the self-tapping screws on the wall with putty, after it dries a little, cover the seams with sickle or fiberglass. After this, we putty the seams over the serpyanka, and then move on to the entire plane of the wall. After the putty has completely dried, it must be primed again to perform the following work, be it painting or wallpapering. You can see how to putty a wall in this video:

You can learn more about puttying plasterboard walls from our articles on the website.

If you still have questions about working with drywall, you can ask them in the comments.