What to do before planting garlic. Preparing spring garlic for spring planting. Fertilizer for garlic when planting in autumn

After harvesting the main crops in the fall, in addition to preparing the site for the next season, you need to take care of planting garlic. To next year get good harvest needs to be processed correctly planting material. But before that, it is important to take care of preparing the site.

The soil

It is best to plant garlic in light loamy soil with a neutral pH. On our site, the soil is acidic, as evidenced by some weeds, for example, horsetail. For this reason, we first add 1 cup to the ground wood ash for every 1 m2 of land. Instead of ash, you can use chalk, limestone, slaked lime or dolomite flour.

Choose a site that is sunny and well drained. In the spring, it should be one of the first to be freed from melting snow. For us, this place is located at the far fence, where the shadow from the house no longer reaches.

Be sure to add humus or compost to the soil before planting. Additionally add mineral fertilizer: 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate + 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate. You can also add urea in the amount of 1 tbsp. l. per 1 m2.

After this, the area must be dug up and a ridge with a width of no more than 1 m and a height of up to 30 cm must be formed.

If you grow garlic in the same place year after year, I advise you to additionally disinfect the soil with a solution of copper sulfate (5 tbsp per 10 l hot water). The consumption of the working solution is 5 l per 1 m2.

It is advisable to plant garlic where the following were previously grown: peas, beans, beans, potatoes, pumpkins, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, white cabbage and cauliflower.

Do not plant garlic in areas where you previously grew: radishes, turnips, carrots, celery, onions, basil, spinach, cilantro, parsley, etc.

Landing

IN Middle lane In Russia, garlic is planted from mid-September to mid-October. Keep an eye on the weather forecast. If you plant garlic too early, it may germinate before frost. If you are late with planting, then a good root system will not have time to form.

Do not press the garlic cloves into the ground, as you may damage their bottom. It is better to first prepare small holes or trenches about 5-7 cm deep. It is advisable to put a little humus or compost on their bottom. The planted garlic is sprinkled with soil. The optimal distance between adjacent rows is 20 cm, the cloves in a row should be 5-7 cm apart from each other.

At the end of planting, the soil is mulched with mowed grass, dry fallen leaves or straw. Don’t forget to remove the mulch immediately after the snow melts in the spring so that the ground underneath has a chance to dry out faster.

Preparing planting material

Carefully inspect the garlic cloves prepared for planting. Damaged, rotten, or with characteristic stains specimens must be discarded immediately. There should not be even minor damage to the skin or bottom. Garlic should not be wet, as moisture causes feathers to sprout and rot. The best cloves come from the largest heads. They are separated literally just before landing.

Please note that if the garlic head has only 3-4 cloves, then it is not suitable for planting - this sure sign degeneration. Even if the cloves themselves look healthy and large.

It is advisable to immediately sort all selected teeth into 3 categories: large, medium and small. Each group should be planted separately, then you will get uniform shoots everywhere.

Before planting, the cloves should be treated with the following means (optional):

soak in a solution of 1% copper sulfate for 10 hours (more convenient in the evening);
immediately before planting, the cloves can be kept in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 40-50 minutes;
you can soak the cloves for 2-3 minutes in a saline solution (3 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water), and then keep them in a weak solution of copper sulfate for another 1 minute.
You can soak the garlic before planting for 1 hour in a solution of crushed wood ash (1 tbsp per 1 liter of water).
Of the drugs that are widely available, I can recommend the following: “Maxim Dachnik”, “Fitolavin”, “Fitsporin-M” (follow the instructions).

Pre-planting treatment of garlic will not only protect the plants themselves throughout their growth, but will also increase the shelf life of the harvested crop in the future.

Garlic has high healing properties, the presence of which is due to the exceptional chemical composition. It contains more than 26% carbohydrates, in large quantities protein, ascorbic acid and arsenic compounds. Together, when consumed raw garlic, they have a healing effect. In addition, its bulbs have a pronounced phytoncidal effect.

There are three types of this garden crops: winter (arrowing and non-arrowing) and Cultivation and care are simple processes, but have some features. About how to get high yield garlic, read further in the article.

Winter varieties of garlic

Danilovsky local - non-shooting hot garlic. The bulb is large with 6-11 cloves, the covering scales have a purple tint.
Gribovsky-60 is a sharp shooter of garlic that forms a large onion with 7-11 cloves. The color of the covering scales is red-lilac.
Gribovsky Jubilee is a cold-resistant bolting variety of garlic. The weight of the bulb is about 40 g, the number of cloves is exactly 11, the covering scales are purple.
Komsomolets is a cold-resistant winter variety with a sharp taste, bolting. The large bulb consists of 7-11 cloves and is covered with pink covering scales with a purple tint.

Varieties of spring garlic

The classification of garlic is based on when to plant garlic in open ground. Winter crops are planted in autumn, and in early spring- spring The first type is the most popular among gardeners. However, there are very good and proven varieties of spring garlic.

Demidovsky is a variety of Ural selection recommended for cultivation throughout Russia. Bulb weighing up to 47 g, 16 cloves. The color of the covering scales is cream. The taste is semi-sharp, the shelf life is excellent - up to 10 months.
Elenovsky is a productive variety, resistant to nematode, with good keeping quality. The mass of the bulb is up to 23 g, 16 cloves are formed. The taste is semi-sharp. The color of the covering scales is white.
Nugget is a variety of large spring garlic with a bulb weight of up to 67 g, forming 19-23 cloves. The pulp is semi-sharp in taste, white, the covering scales are white.

Winter garlic: planting dates

As mentioned above, winter garlic planted in garden beds in the fall. Arrowing varieties, the most common, form, in addition to the underground bulb, an inflorescence, on which bulbs then develop.

Before you learn how to treat garlic before planting, you should find out when it should be planted. Let us immediately note that there is no specific date. Disembarkation times depend on climatic conditions. Keep in mind that this needs to be done approximately 1-1.5 months before the cold snap. During this time, the teeth should take root and develop good root system, which will penetrate 10-12 cm deep, but not “release” the leaves. In regions with a cold climate, the planting period begins on September 20, in more southern regions - from October 14. If you plant garlic earlier, it will germinate; if it is planted later, it will freeze.

Preparation of planting material

Preparing garlic for planting begins with inspecting the planting material. Use the harvest current year. Select well-dried, healthy bulbs for this. If they contain excess moisture, they will germinate quickly. Carefully separate them into individual cloves, taking care not to damage the skin. Then calibrate them by size into large, medium and small.

It is necessary to disassemble the bulb into cloves immediately before planting, otherwise the bottoms may dry out, and this will greatly delay the formation of roots.

Garlic can be processed before planting different ways, we will consider some of them further. Despite their differences, they all have the same goal - to help young cloves survive the winter and protect them from possible diseases. The following treatment methods are considered the most effective: a solution of wood ash, potassium permanganate, salt and copper sulfate, nitroammophoska.

Processing garlic before planting in saline solution and copper sulfate

Rinse in saline solution(concentration: 3 tablespoons of salt per five liters of water) for a couple of minutes. To make it more convenient, you can put all the cloves in a rag bag, or wrap them in a piece of cotton and tie the ends like a bag.

The second stage is treatment with copper sulfate. To do this, dilute 1 tbsp in ten liters of water. l. preparation and dip the garlic into the solution for another minute. After this, without washing the teeth, plant them in the garden. This treatment of garlic before planting with copper sulfate is aimed mainly at preventing the development various diseases. It can be used for both winter and spring varieties.

When landing, follow the calibration. Do not mix large and small teeth, this way you will achieve uniform shoots.

Soaking in a solution of wood ash

Quite often you can come across the question of whether it is worth soaking garlic before planting. The answer depends on which variety you choose. If we are talking about winter garlic, then it is better not to do this. The main purpose of soaking is to help the teeth hatch faster. Therefore, it is relevant in the case of spring garlic. It is recommended to keep it in the refrigerator for a month beforehand.

Soaking in ash is perhaps the oldest and most inexpensive method. Ash is formed in sufficient quantities in the bathhouse. You just have to collect it during the winter. To prepare the solution, pour two glasses of wood ash with two liters of hot water. It is necessary to wait until the finely dispersed mixture separates into layers. By this time, the solution should have cooled; drain the light part into a separate container. It is in this that you should soak the garlic cloves for one hour.

Soaking garlic in a solution of potassium permanganate

Treating garlic with potassium permanganate before planting is also a very common method. In the case of winter varieties, it needs to be short-term. It is enough to lower the teeth for 1-2 minutes. into a slightly pink solution. If we are talking about spring garlic, then soaking for 10-12 hours is practiced.

In addition, complex processing can be carried out. To do this, garlic cloves are initially soaked in a weak solution of nitroammophoska (1 tablespoon of the drug per ten liters of water). A day later, the planting material is placed in a slightly salted solution for 20 minutes. At the end, the garlic is lowered for another 20 minutes. into a solution of copper sulfate. The concentrations are the same as indicated above.

Growing winter garlic

If the preparation of garlic for planting was carried out correctly, as was the planting itself, and the seeds are good and strong, then in early spring, as soon as the snow melts from the garden bed, shoots will appear. At this moment, in order to prevent the formation of a crust and provide oxygen access to the roots of the plant, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Garlic is watered from May to the first ten days of July. Stop it about twenty days before the expected cleaning. The volume of water consumed depends on the air temperature. It is approximately equal to 10-12 liters per 1 m2. The frequency of watering is once every ten days (in very hot summers it is reduced to 5-6).

Feeding

Watering garlic can be successfully combined with fertilizing. Let's talk about how to feed winter garlic for its better growth. In general, fertilizing is best done in three stages as the plants develop.

As soon as the garlic has 3-4 true leaves, water it with a urea solution from a watering can or by sprinkling. Solution concentration - 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers per 10 liters of water. This volume is enough for the entire garden bed, since the consumption is 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

Before feeding winter garlic a second time, wait two weeks after the first application. To prepare a nutrient solution, nitroammophoska or nitrophoska and the drug “Agricola” or “Fertility” are diluted in ten liters of water. Consumption is 4-5 liters per 1 m2.

The third feeding is aimed at “supporting” the plant during the formation of the bulb, and it occurs in the second half of June. Crushed superphosphate (2 tbsp) is diluted in ten liters of water. The solution consumption is 4-5 liters per 1 m2.

Spring garlic: cultivation and care

The agricultural technology of spring garlic is no different from its winter counterpart. For the plant, you should prepare fertile soil with pre-applied minerals and organic fertilizers. The height of the bed can vary from 12 to 15 cm; the width should not be more than 90 cm.

Treat the garlic using one of the above methods before planting. Then plant the cloves on the bed at a distance of 6-8 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm.

As soon as seedlings appear, the plants must be fed with fertilizer containing nitrogen. Use urea or mullein solution for this. Further care care for garlic consists of timely weeding and loosening of the soil, watering. In May, the soil must be constantly kept moist. The frequency of watering at this time of year is once a week.

When the bulbs begin to form, the garlic must be fed with phosphorus-potassium preparations. This can be potassium chloride, potassium sulfate or superphosphate. Strictly follow the dosage indicated on the package. In the period between fertilizing, add simple wood ash between the rows at the rate of one glass per 1 m2.

Spring garlic begins to be harvested after massive drying of the lower tier foliage, as well as lodging and yellowing of the upper leaves. The bulbs are well dried and stored.

You don't know how to soak and treat garlic before planting in the fall? First, the seed is checked for damaged cloves. The night before planting, it is soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Instead of this drug, you can also use a one percent solution of copper sulfate. Soaking garlic before planting is a must.

There is another proven option on how to disinfect garlic before planting. It is first soaked for 2 minutes in a solution of the most common kitchen salt (3 tablespoons of salt per half bucket of water). Then for another minute they place it in a container with a solution of the same copper sulfate (a teaspoon per bucket of water). And only after this the planting material is washed plain water and planted in the ground. Which option to choose and what treatment will be before planting is up to you to decide.

It is also believed that garlic will not be damaged by disease if it is not peeled from the top dry scales. It is recommended to treat the bed with lime in the fall, but no later than a month before planting. To do this, you will need 2 cups of lime and the same amount of dolomite flour per 1 square meter. Thanks to this, you will protect the garlic from rotting and cracking.

The soil can be watered special solution table salt - 3 liters per 1 square meter. The solution itself consists of 3 tablespoons of table salt per 10 liters of water. There are several options and seed material in addition to the above, add a bucket of organic fertilizers, about a tablespoon of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate per 1 square meter of soil.

The bed is dug up and limed, and then watered with a solution of copper sulfate. In this case, you can add a whole tablespoon of chemicals to a bucket of water. A liter of this solution should be spread per square meter of bed. Following these preparations, the planting area is covered with film. Remember that you need to plant winter garlic in the fall, when the soil temperature is 15 degrees Celsius.

Such temperature regime usually occurs in late September or early October. A month and a half before the arrival of real cold weather, garlic can be planted. It is by following this planting schedule that you will give the plantings a chance to take root properly. Garlic with well-developed roots is not afraid of winter cold.

Large and medium-sized bulbs should be selected for planting and divided into cloves. The planting site must be free starting in August. It is preferable that it be sandy loam soil, in a place where there are no ravines or hills. After all, if melt water appears in the lowlands in the spring, it can harm the garlic. As in the case of planting at higher elevations, where strong cold winds can also lead to the death of the plant.

Garlic beds must be protected from frost. Mulching materials are used for this. They are removed with the arrival of spring even before the emergence of shoots. Otherwise, you may not be able to avoid overheating of the plants. The same goes for warm winter– when the snow melts, the mulching material is immediately removed. In order not to encounter serious problems when the garlic feather is already 15 centimeters, you will need to take care of preventative treatment directed against fungal diseases.

And it will help you again copper sulfate– one teaspoon of the drug is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water and a tablespoon is added liquid soap. This solution can be sprayed on the leaves.

And remember that this culture loves timely watering and weeding. The beds are usually loosened once every 2-3 weeks. Harvest should be done when all the feathers turn yellow. If you are late with harvesting, the bulbs will begin to grow again, fall apart into slices and become simply unsuitable for storage.

Garlic: classification and varieties

Garlic is a bulbous plant. It is usually grown as an annual. But if you don’t dig it up in the summer, it can grow into a bush. Each of the cloves will germinate and produce a stem. Of course, such garlic does not form heads, and its feathers will be thin and low. Such bushes can be planted in the spring or the feathers can be cut for salad.

Garlic is delicious and useful plant. In spring, young leaves are used, all year round- garlic cloves. It’s hard to imagine salting and pickling vegetables without this spicy plant. The fungicides contained in it successfully fight bacteria. All varieties of garlic can be divided into groups according to several parameters.

By planting time:

Winter

By presence of arrow:

Darting with large teeth.
Not shootable. It lasts longer and has up to 20 small cloves.

By purpose:

Canteens (usually sharp shooters).
Industrial (usually semi-sharp non-shooting).

Currently, about 600 varieties of garlic are grown in the world. Our most popular and widespread:

Gribovsky 60 – winter, forming an arrow with red scales. Zubkov 7-11.
Gribovsky Jubilee is a winter shooter with purple scales. The weight of one head with 11 teeth is 40 g.
Otradnensky is a winter shooter with pink scales. Cloves up to 6 pcs.
Danilovsky local - winter, does not form shoots. Up to 11 teeth, purple scales.
Poretsky is local.

Garlic is grown from the cloves that make up the head. They are separated shortly before planting. The cloves of many varieties are very large. Sometimes the head can be divided into only 4 parts. Winter varieties, on the arrow of which small cloves-bulbs form, can be grown from them. This method is often more cost effective.

Garlic grows well in sunny areas.

Prefers sandy or loamy soil, rich in organic fertilizers, without close proximity groundwater. The acidity level should be 6.0-6.5. Garlic does not grow well in wet, heavy soils. There the pen acquires light green color. At the same time, the plant needs sufficient moisture. With its deficiency, the garlic feather turns white and bends.

Good predecessors for growing garlic are peas, cucumbers,... They don't plant him after...

Preparatory activities:

They begin to prepare the bed at the end of summer. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied. If the soil is acidic, lime it by adding dolomite flour or slaked lime. Adding peat makes it looser. If the soil is sandy, add clay and peat.
Then they dig up the area and level it with a rake. For disinfection, some vegetable growers advise spilling the prepared area with a solution of copper sulfate. For this, 1 tbsp. l. Dissolve the product in a bucket of water and add 1 liter per 1 m2. They cover her plastic film, which is not removed before planting the garlic. But this will not give much effect.

Closer to planting, the heads are disassembled and the garlic cloves are prepared, being careful not to damage them. You can take average weight and more than average. Placement in a row (outer or inner) does not matter. Small teeth are not taken; they contain a small supply of nutrients.

How you can process garlic:

It is sometimes advised to immerse the cooked cloves in a saline solution in order to protect the garlic from onion fly. For 1 liter of water take 1.5 tbsp. spoons of salt. Stand for 2 minutes. But experts do not recommend using substances containing chlorine, including NaCl salt, potassium chloride, and ammonium chloride, to care for garlic. It is especially harmful to water the area saline solution. This can lead to soil salinization.
Some sources advise treating garlic cloves with a solution of copper sulfate. Immerse the prepared cloves in it for 1 minute and rinse with water. Opponents of this method argue that a solution of potassium permanganate affects pathogens in a concentration that is harmful to plant tissue. They advise using a fungicide for treatment, for example, the Maxim disinfectant.
Roasted garlic is soaked overnight in warm water. You can add a handful of nitroammophoska to it. When preparing planting material for vigorous varieties of garlic, the cloves that were stored in the room are placed in the refrigerator for a month. Before planting, soak for a day in a mixture of potassium humate and (2 tablespoons per liter of water). You can use monopotassium phosphate. These solutions will help restore moisture lost during storage. After processing, they are ready for planting.
If it is not possible to plant vigorous garlic in early spring, cold rooting is carried out. To do this, the teeth are placed in a cold, damp place (wrapped in a damp cloth and hidden in the refrigerator). After the roots grow 1 cm long, they are planted in the ground.

When preparing baby bulbs, the largest specimens are selected. After they are removed from the arrows, they are dried and stored until planting.

Winter varieties of garlic should be planted a month before frost. During this time, it must take root to survive the winter. Usually this the last week September-mid October. Then the baby bulbs are planted. If garlic is planted too early, it will sprout, put out an arrow, and in the winter it will freeze and disappear. An additional batch of fertilizers is added: humus, nitrophoska, superphosphate and wood ash. It can be replaced with the drug “Kalimaga” (40 g). They dig up the soil and level it with a rake.

The cloves are planted at a distance of 7 cm from each other in a row, row spacing is 25 cm. They can be planted according to a 10x10 pattern. Immersion depth up to 8 cm (the size of two cloves). Children are planted thicker, every 2 cm, between rows 10 cm. Planting depth is 3 cm. If there is little planting material, small cloves can be planted separately from large ones. They can make good planting material for next year.

Fervent varieties are planted in the spring as early as possible.

The signal will be the opening of buds on the birch tree. There should be no water or excess moisture in the area. Before planting, dig up the soil. Then the prepared cloves are planted to a depth of 4 cm. It is better to mulch the area with straw. In spring it will retain moisture in the area, and in winter it will protect from frost. It is not recommended to use fresh grass because it can serve as a source of fungal diseases.

Garlic beds are regularly weeded and weeds removed. When loosening the soil, the air permeability of the soil increases. You don't have to fertilize the garlic. But if it grows slowly, you can feed it 2 times a month with a solution of mullein or. A liter of manure is infused in a bucket of water for 10 days, then diluted in a ratio of 1:10. Feed the third time when the size of the head reaches 3 cm.

Water as needed in May and June, no more than once a week.

In July - only during severe drought. After watering, loosen the soil (if there is no mulch between the rows). The arrows that throw out some varieties to form seeds take a lot of energy from the plant and useful substances. Therefore, they are picked before they begin to bloom. Carefully pull the arrow with both hands so that it comes off as low as possible, inside the stem. If this is not done, the teeth will grow very small. Several plants can be left in order to collect baby seeds.

Garlic can be affected by fungal diseases:

False powdery mildew(peronosporosis). Downy mildew manifests itself as pale green spots on the leaves, which then turn gray with a purple tint. Prevention - keeping the beds clean, good lighting plot.
Black mold. Black mold appears when storing fresh garlic at high temperature. Prevention - dry the heads well before storing them.
Cervical rot. To prevent garlic from disappearing from neck rot, the plants are well dried. First 12 days at temperatures up to 26°C, then 3 days up to 36°C. For storage, you can treat the heads with chalk.
Fusarium.

To prevent and combat fungal diseases, plants are treated. To improve adhesion, pour in 1 tsp. liquid soap.

The main pests of garlic:

- small worms that penetrate inside the plant. As a result of their vital activity, the bottom of the garlic head is destroyed and it becomes unsuitable for storage. You can notice the nematode by yellowish lines on the leaves. Getting rid of nematodes is difficult. In a good way prevention is done by changing the planting location. Garlic is returned to old place in the 4th year after cultivation. Liming also helps clear the area of nematodes. It is carried out no later than a month before planting.
The onion fly is dangerous due to its larvae. They penetrate inside the head of garlic, which leads to rotting and loss of yield. To scare it away from the garden bed, sprinkle wood ash (100 g) between the rows, mixing it with a spoonful of ground pepper and tobacco dust. Once every 5 days, loosen the soil to a depth of 3 cm. You can spray with an aqueous solution of this mixture, poured with boiling water and infused for 3 days. Prevention - early planting of vigorous varieties of garlic.

Garlic is removed after the feather has turned yellow and died. The head wrap also changes color. Typically, harvesting time falls in mid-July to early August. It depends on weather and climatic conditions. If you are late in harvesting and leave ripe garlic in the soil for some time, the heads may turn black and break into separate cloves.

The garlic is dug up along with the roots, dried in the fresh air in a place protected from direct sun rays. When the stem and roots are completely dry, cut them off, leaving a few millimeters on both sides.

Place in boxes or boxes so that fresh air constantly flows to the heads.

The room temperature should not be high, otherwise the teeth will dry out quickly. In winter, you can store it in the attic, well wrapped in an old blanket. In the spring, as soon as the frosts go away, remove the cover so that the cloves do not germinate. Can be stored at 18°C.

More information can be found in the video:

To get a healthy and generous harvest, you need to know certain subtleties of planting: choose right place, follow the planting sequence in order to restore the soil, prepare the soil, select suitable seedlings, properly plant and fertilize the plant, and then provide regular care behind the beds.

There are no particular difficulties with garlic; it is a bactericidal plant that independently copes with many negative factors. However, in order for the harvest to be tasty and plentiful, you need to work with the seedlings.

How to get a high-quality garlic harvest

Fragrant, spicy garlic cloves are obtained from winter plants. They emerge early in March and ripen all summer, gaining juice and useful minerals. The head of such garlic has a central core and large, dense cloves located around it. It is this kind of garlic that is planted in the fall for rooting.

A good full-fledged harvest is obtained from the germination of large teeth, but so that the flavor and aromatic properties of the plant do not disappear, seedlings sometimes need to be renewed and diluted by spring breeding. In spring, garlic is grown through bulbs. As a result, by autumn, young juicy heads with small multiple teeth are obtained. They do not have such noble spicy qualities as large garlic, but they add sharpness and piquancy to dishes, and as seedlings they refresh the juices of garlic.

The first one received for seedlings spring harvest They are not used for culinary purposes, but are all planted as winter crops. A good harvest from such seedlings will only be in the second year.

One way or another, winter garlic is planted in October after Indian summer, when cool temperatures set in. Planted cloves take root, but do not have time to germinate before the first frost. By spring, the plants begin to produce early greenery and ripen.

How to choose good garlic for seedlings in winter

Select only dense, whole, dry large heads without signs of disease. All dubious, loose, darkened fruits are unsuitable for reproduction. The bulbs are divided into slices, but not peeled. The natural film protects the garlic teeth from drying out, rotting and harmful microorganisms. All small and thin cloves should be discarded. This garlic will come in handy in the kitchen. It is also better not to plant slices with damaged film; there is a chance that they will not overwinter in the soil.

The onions should be disassembled into slices 2-3 days before planting, otherwise the root bed may dry out and lose the ability to germinate.

To ensure that the cloves are not infected with fungi that may develop in the soil after planting, they must be sterilized.

The easiest way is to dry the teeth in the oven. This is done very carefully so as not to bake the garlic in its own juice, otherwise it will lose its vitality and will not germinate. To roast garlic for sterilization, you need:

preheat the oven to 40-42 degrees;
Line a baking sheet with a sheet of parchment and distribute the garlic cloves on it;
Do not close the oven door tightly to allow air ventilation;
dry the garlic for 9-12 hours, turning on different sides;
Pay attention to safety if the oven is gas.

It’s even better to use a special electric dryer or frying oven, with the garlic placed on the surface.

Another way to process garlic is to rinse it in potassium permanganate. Will need to do weak solution Pink colour in proportions 1 tsp. manganese powder per 10 liters of hot water. The seed should be soaked in this composition for 10 hours.

Another good remedy– ash lye. It is enough to dilute 400 g of ordinary wood ash in 2 liters of water and boil the composition for 30 minutes. After it has cooled, you need to place the garlic cloves in the liquid and soak for 2 hours. This method is environmentally friendly and suitable for supporters of natural plant processing.

After sterilization procedures, the cloves are dried.

Removing diseases from planting material

The recipes proposed above are necessary for preventive purposes. If obvious traces of disease are found on the garlic, it’s too early to get upset; you don’t have to throw away the seedlings. Can be used for processing drug Fitosporin-M. It is diluted in water according to the instructions and the seed is soaked for half an hour. Before planting garlic, this solution also needs to be poured into the holes in the garden bed.

An alternative remedy is Maxim. These household substances will relieve plants from fungal and bacterial diseases and save the future harvest.

Another method of ecological cleaning of seedlings is rinsing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. The procedure is done in stages:

First prepare the salt mixture. 3 tbsp. kitchen salt should be diluted in 5 liters of water. Leave the garlic cloves in this liquid for 2 minutes.
Then soak for half an hour in vitriol. The solution is made from 1 tsp. substances per 10 liters of water.

It is necessary to combat lesions on seed material due to the fact that the development of fungal and bacterial diseases in the soil threatens not only a specific sprout, but also neighboring plants. In order not to spoil the entire harvest, processing is simply necessary.

2 weeks before planting garlic, the soil is dug up and sprinkled with potassium sulfate and double superphosphate - 2 and 1 spoons per square, respectively. The soil is also generously fertilized with humus. The prepared beds are allowed to breathe and settle, and only after 14-16 days the garlic is planted in the ground.
A couple of days before planting the seed, the soil needs to be treated with carbamide (urea). The consumption of the substance is based on 1 tbsp. on 2 square meters land. In dry weather, after such treatment, the soil must be watered generously.
If garlic is planted after potatoes or tomatoes, the soil must be treated with copper sulfate to remove possible traces of plant fungi. The solution is made according to classic recipe: 1 tbsp. copper sulfate is diluted in 2 liters of heated water. 10 liters of solution can treat 2 square meters of beds.

Some owners abstain from synthetic fertilizers and do not want chemical solutions fell into the harvest. If you need natural treatment of the soil against fungi, the beds are first planted with greenery, and then dug up, leaving compost in the ground.

Planting of “fertilizer” occurs in mid-August – early September. Mustard, oat and green pea seeds are used as assistants. They are rare (on long distance from each other) are sown in future garlic beds. By the time you plant garlic, you should have 20-35 cm of shoots consisting of woven greenery. This “vitamin cocktail” will be an excellent food for spring.

Other owners suggest “holding together” the land with rye. It is important that the beds do not sit empty and do not become overgrown with weeds. Grasses draw water from the earth and keep the earth alive. At the same time, weeds usually behave aggressively and greatly deplete the soil, and it is sometimes very difficult to eradicate weeds. Therefore, the land is sown with noble greens, and when the time comes to plant garlic, the soil is in a loose, moist state and is well prepared for planting winter crops.

Caring for young shoots

In order for garlic to grow healthy in spring and summer, it must be treated against pests already in the beds. Copper sulfate is also used for this - a solution of 1 tsp. for 10 liters of water. It is recommended to add liquid soap to this product.

Garlic itself has protective juices and its characteristic zinc smell repels pests not only from its own beds, but also from neighboring ones. Therefore next to spicy herbs It is recommended to plant tomatoes, lettuce and beans, which are often attacked by pests.

However, be careful! Some plants, adjacent to garlic, have Negative influence on vegetable yield. For example, it is not recommended to plant asparagus, spinach, beets and carrots next to it.

To get a generous and tasty harvest of garlic, carefully select large cloves for seedlings, disinfect them according to the recommendations, treat the beds - and the result may exceed expectations.