Do-it-yourself wooden floors in the house. How to make interfloor slabs in a wooden house. What to consider when choosing lumber

There are two options for arranging wooden floors: along beams and along logs. The choice of one or another method of performing work depends on the individual characteristics of the room and the preferences of its owners. Among the advantages of floors made on beams, it should be noted high level their strength and low cost of work. Let's look at how to build floors on wooden beams below.

Floor construction on wooden beams: performing calculations

Usage wooden beams, compared to reinforced concrete, it differs primarily in its more affordable cost and ease of work. In addition, the floor has almost the same strength characteristics. The use of wooden structures helps reduce the overall weight of the house and its load on the foundation.

Among the advantages of floor beams in wooden house, note:

high resistance and rigidity to loads;
light weight compared to concrete beams;
affordable price;
opportunity self-installation, without specialized technical equipment.

To install a floor on wooden beams, you do not need specialized equipment, since a few people are enough to lay the beams. Main load-bearing element a wooden beam protrudes from the structure. It has the shape of a wooden beam, the height of which ranges from ten to thirty centimeters, and the thickness from seven to twenty centimeters. The optimal pitch for laying beams ranges from 65-100 cm. To determine the cross-section of the beam, you should take into account individual characteristics premises, load and weight of the building, span length and other important factors. Wooden boards connected to each other and mounted on an edge will help replace the timber. The use of hewn logs will be the most economical option arrangement of floor coverings.

In order to determine the cross-section of a beam installed in a particular house, you must first determine the level of load that acts on it. For determining total load the weight of the floor, the load from people and fittings that will be installed on it are taken into account. General value the total load is four hundred kilograms per square meter. In relation to this value, the section and size of the beam is determined from the table:

If the span is about 4 m, then with an installation step of 65 cm, a beam measuring 10x20 cm will be required. Please note that the length of the beam must be 15 cm longer on each side to ensure its installation in the wall. That is, to determine the length of the beam, add 30 cm to 400 cm, you get 4.3 m.

Correct calculation of wooden beams allows you to select optimal size materials with the help of which it will be possible to correctly distribute the load in the building.

Laying of wooden beams is carried out in a direction parallel to each other. At the same time, the interval between the beams must be maintained in almost all areas, with the exception of chimney pipes and other structural elements of the floor. The interval for laying beams in a house made of wood is about one meter. If the house is made according to frame technology, then this distance is reduced to 50 cm. If given value increases in relation to design features building, then between the beams it is installed additional element, improving their load-bearing capabilities.

If in the area close to the staircase there is no place for attaching the beam, you should arrange it here additional design in the form of a wooden crossbar. This will become the place to install the beams. At the same time, beams can be installed directly on or into the crossbar. In order for beams to easily withstand the loads placed on them, the following requirements must be met:

the optimal height of the beams will be at least one twenty-fourth of its length;
the width of the beam should be at least half its height;
if the beam is installed in the attic, then a width of one third of its height is sufficient.

Using this relationship, it is possible to select best option beams for arranging floors. If the installation of beams is carried out in a section of fastening grooves, then the size of the beams should increase slightly. In order to reduce the thickness of the beam, if the floor is quite long, support pillars are installed between them.

If the beams are installed in outbuildings, garages, change houses or other non-residential premises, the level of average load decreases and ranges from 100 to 300 kg per square meter. At the same time, the cross-section of the beams should also be reduced.

If you could not find the specified size of beams, then the option of constructing them yourself using ordinary boards is possible. At the same time, they are laid in a checkerboard pattern, connecting to each other using nails.

During the further construction of the stove and chimney in the house, one should take into account the fact that the distance between it and the beam should not be less than thirty centimeters.

Flooring with wooden beams: features of installation of beams

The wooden beams are fixed directly to the wall. If the ceiling is installed in the attic, then the beams are installed on the last crown of the wall, made of timber or logs.

A hole should be made in the wall, comparable in size to the beam. Before installation, the beam should be covered with tow. If there are beams that are too thin, they are installed 10-15 cm into the wall. In this case, a special cutting method is used. It is possible to attach the beam using a connection called a dovetail.

This option is suitable for houses that are also made of timber. To fix the beam in a house made of wood, a trapezoidal connection is used, and a clamp is installed for additional strength. In this case, the crossbar and the beam will be on the same level. The most in a simple way Installing floor beams involves installing cranial bars and fixing the beams on them. In this case, the size of the bars will be about 5x5 cm.

If the house is made of panels, then to lay the beam you should make a hole in the wall in the form of a nest. Each end of the beam is installed inside the holes. In this case, each beam socket must be at the same level. Optimal depth the nest is about 15-20 cm, and the width between the beam and the wall is about 1 cm. Each of the ends that is installed in the nest is lined with tow. Next comes the process of treating the beam with an antiseptic solution. Thus, it will be possible to extend its service life and protect the coating from mold and mildew.

It is possible to fix the tow using steel anchors. One end of the anchor is installed in the socket, and the second is fixed on the beam with screws, while the length of the beam is calculated so that it does not fit into the wall and is equal to the length of the floor.

If the house is made of brick, then the installation of wooden beams will also require the construction of nests. They are supporting elements for holding beams. Try to build the nests as level as possible. In order to install the beams at the same level, you will need to level the bottom of the nests using concrete mortar. After the concrete solution has completely dried, roofing felt or roofing felt is installed on its surface to protect the wood from moisture.

In this case, the size of the nest is 6-10 cm larger than the thickness of the beam. The gap between the wall and the wooden beam should be about three centimeters. The depth of the nest is about 20-25 cm, but the beam is installed inside only 15 cm. The areas of wooden beams that are placed in the nest should be coated with hot bitumen.

Next, they are wrapped with roofing felt or glassine in two layers. After this, the rest of the beam is covered with a solution with antiseptic properties. After laying the beams in the nests, they should be filled with concrete mortar, for which crushed stone is used as a filler. The beams are aligned flush with the wall.

Flooring with wooden beams: features of floor construction

The rolling part of the floor is the ceiling on the rolling floor. There are several ways to lay out flooring. Most often, cranial bars are installed on the beam, the cross-section of which is 4x4 or 5x5 cm. The cranial bars are installed in such a way that they are flush with the beam. Next, a wooden roll is laid on the surface of the bars in the form wooden planks, the thickness of which is from 10 to 20 cm. At the same time, there should be no gaps between the boards. A ready-made wooden shield or regular plywood. In order to arrange a flat ceiling on ground floor, installed on top of the roll plasterboard sheets or plywood.

Using another method of installing the roll-up, it is possible to significantly increase the ceiling area, if it is not large enough. Bars with a cross-section of 4x4 cm are installed on a wooden beam. The roll is laid on them, and its installation is carried out perpendicular to the beams. Next comes the installation of the filing in the form of boards, the thickness of which is the same as that of the previously installed bars.

In addition, to make the knurling, a beam is also used, the thickness of which is from 6 cm. Skull bars, the cross-section of which is 4x4 or 5x5 cm, are installed on the beam. Next follows the process of laying the beam. In this case, they are connected using the quarter method using a cut groove in the beam . The thickness of the beam depends on the height of the beams; they should be located at the same level. In this case, the beam performs the function of both rolling and filing. In addition, making a fastening groove inside the beam will help replace the cranial bars. In some cases, the bottom of the beams is left exposed and unfinished. This method is relevant when used in a country style room.

Installing a floor on wooden beams: technology for performing the work

Next comes the process of arranging the floor on wooden beams. To begin with, bars are installed on each of the beams, in relation to which the surface of the flooring is formed. This stage involves adjusting the floor and constructing a rough covering. Therefore, it is allowed to use unplaned boards, however, it must be covered with protective materials and impregnations.

Next comes the work of waterproofing the decking. The best option is to use a clay-sand mortar that has the consistency of putty. Another option to do waterproofing works, is the use of roofing felt. With its help, it is possible to provide high-quality waterproofing that does not take up much space. After this, the process of providing thermal insulation follows. The most popular materials for carrying out this work are the use of:

slag poured between the beams;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam;
non-polystyrene;
sawdust or expanded clay.

The most popular insulation for floors on wooden beams is mineral wool. It has high thermal insulation abilities, has a long service life, is resistant to rodents and is quite antiseptic.

Mineral wool is installed in such a way that it fits tightly to the floor surface. After this, a vapor barrier is installed, since this material is not resistant to moisture, which can reach it through a wooden floor.

Further actions are related to the arrangement of the finishing flooring. It is possible to install it directly on beams, but it is best to pre-install the system from logs. Thus, firstly, under the flooring there will be extra space and ventilation, secondly, the noise level emitted by a wooden floor will be significantly reduced.

In addition, it is possible to construct a floating wooden floor. Warm floors on wooden beams are distinguished by the presence of rigid fixation to the surface of the walls. In addition, it has excellent soundproofing characteristics and a low level of squeaking. Planed wood is used as a finishing material for laying a concrete floor over wooden beams. batten, chipboard, laminate, parquet board or linoleum.

Floors between floors, basements or attics are structurally arranged according to two schemes - beamless floors (based on the use monolithic slab), and beam floor (wooden floor beams are used). They make ceilings to separate interfloor spaces, as well as to separate rooms from the basement and attic. Beams can be made from various materials, such as wood, cast-in-situ reinforced concrete or metal purlins.

Installing wooden floor beams allows you to solve the following problems:

achieve the required strength and rigidity of the floor;

ensure that sound insulation and heat transfer resistance correspond to the level necessary for energy saving;

maintain compliance with established standards for vapor and air permeability indicators.

Selecting beams for interfloor ceilings:

By type and type:

Timber floor beams. Most often, rectangular beams are chosen for the manufacture of beams. The height of the beam should be in the range of 140-240 mm, and the thickness 50-160 mm. In this case, the rule is followed: the thickness of the beam is at least 1/24 of its length. Professionals note that greater strength is inherent in a wooden beam with an aspect ratio of 7:5.

Log beams. Economically more profitable solution. The log has high resistance to loads, but also low resistance to bending. The log is only suitable for use if it has been kept in dry conditions for at least one year.

Floor beams made of planks. The use of boards leads to a reduction in the amount of lumber consumed for the flooring device. But it is worth noting that in this case the fire resistance of the ceiling, durability and sound insulation are reduced. Usually the board is used in construction attic floor. To strengthen the boards, you can use the technique of splicing two boards together along their length. Then the total cross-section will correspond to the load level. This design can withstand a load 2 times greater than timber or two boards laid close to each other. In this case, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails, fixed in a checkerboard pattern in 20 cm increments.

2. Purchasing timber, logs or lumber and treating it with an antiseptic, fire-fighting, antifungal solution and biological protection.

3. Selecting the type of fastening of the beam to the wall.

Attaching wooden floor beams to a load-bearing wall is carried out in two ways:

wall mount. The beam is embedded into the load-bearing wall to a depth of 150-200 mm.

With this installation method, the end of the beam must be cut at an angle of 60°. To protect the ends of the beam, they need to be wrapped in two or three layers of roofing felt. In this case, the end of the beam remains open, and it should not rest against the wall. There is a gap of 20-25 mm. will allow for free air exchange. And the resulting niche (gap) is filled mineral wool.

hanging fastening. In this case, the beams are fixed to the wall using metal plates.

4. Laying wooden floor beams

At this stage the beams are prepared required length. The length depends on the installation method. If the beam is inserted into the wall, then it is calculated as follows: the length of the room plus 300-400 mm. for wall mounting. If attached to the wall, then the length of the beam is equal to the length of the room.

Installation of wooden floor beams begins with the outer beams. Each beam is checked with a building level. After this, the beams are fixed in the wall sockets using dry crushed stone.

When the beams are installed exactly level and the horizontal position is checked, they can be concreted in the landing sockets.

Conclusion

Flooring with wooden beams made using this technology will reliably serve you for several decades. However, to extend its service life, it is necessary to treat the wood and carry out periodic inspections to monitor their condition. If there are defects, carry out repairs (partial or complete replacement of damaged elements).

You can independently install a wooden floor between floors if you have significant carpentry and general experience. construction work. Wooden interfloor ceilings are critical structures in residential buildings and require careful adherence to installation instructions.

Do-it-yourself wooden interfloor slab - advantages and disadvantages

Any ceiling between floors, including wood, must meet the following characteristics:

Strength static and dynamic. The structure must withstand the weight of the expected load with a large margin;
Rigidity sufficient for a high-quality base when arranging floors ( top floor) and ceilings (lower floor);
Durability comparable to the service life of the entire structure. Replacing interfloor floors in an old building is a complex and expensive repair procedure; at the stage of capital construction, it is much easier to create floors between floors using durable wooden beams;
A good floor must have decent thermal and sound insulation properties.

Wooden floors satisfy all of the above qualities and have additional advantages. They can be easily installed by two people and do not require heavy equipment. construction equipment. A span of up to 100 m2 can be laid in one day, if we talk about load-bearing structures, not them finishing. Wooden beams are many times cheaper reinforced concrete slabs or steel floors - and their service life is tens (or even hundreds) of years.

Potential dangers of using wood as a load-bearing interfloor structure include the danger of its rotting and ignition in a fire. These factors are minimized by appropriate treatment of the beams before installation. Equally important is taking into account the minimum permissible deflection. For interfloor beams, due to their durability and resistance, coniferous wood is used. But it is quite plastic - therefore the maximum the size of the wooden beam span is limited to 5 meters. If it is necessary to cover a large room, additional supports (columns, crossbars, etc.) will be required.

Overlapping the second floor using wooden beams - structural calculations

From correct calculation and competent general construction preparation largely depends on how high-quality the installation of wooden floors between floors will be. Using optimally prepared beams, interfloor openings can be covered quickly and easily using convenient seating areas. First of all, the direction of installation of floors is always selected according to the short size of the room. The installation step is interdependent on the cross-section of the floor base, but is usually equal to 1 meter, since a smaller step will lead to greater labor intensity when arranging the seats. It makes more sense to buy wood of a larger cross-section than to spend money on a palisade made of weak floors.

For an installation step of 1 meter, provided that the second floor is habitable, you should acquire such load-bearing bars that can withstand a load of at least 400 kg/m2:

For a span of up to 2.2 meters – 75x150 mm;
For a span of up to 3.2 meters – 100x175 mm;
For a span of up to 3.2 meters – 125x200 mm;
When flying up to 5 meters – 150x225 mm.

The ceilings of uninhabited attics are made with the same pitch, but with a material of smaller cross-section. For example, for half the load (that is, 400 kg/m2), bars 50x160, 50x180, 70x180 and 70x200, respectively, will be sufficient. Just keep in mind that in an attic with such a ceiling you will then have to crawl, not walk... As you can see from the calculations, load-bearing beams with a ratio of 1.5:1 height to width are considered optimal. For attic spaces On the contrary, a narrow tree with an elongated profile is used due to the small load in the future.

Overlapping between floors - preparing for installation during the construction phase

When constructing walls made of brick, silicate blocks, or aerated concrete, openings are provided for the floor elements. The pitch of these openings is 1 meter, the depth is at least 30 (and preferably 40) centimeters, the width is the same. The beam must penetrate the wall at least 20 cm, plus free space will be required for its ends. The end part of the ceilings has no construction mixtures not filled in for purposes natural ventilation and obstacles to rotting.

The more accurately the height of the seats in the walls of the house is determined, the easier it will be to install the flooring of the beam structure. In houses made of wood, beam structures can be embedded directly into the walls; here, the implementation of the future ceiling does not require preparation at the stage of wall construction. It is important to take into account the inadmissibility of installing load-bearing bars close to a parallel wall, no closer than 10 cm, and be sure to maintain strict consistency of the installation step - the permissible “run-up” from the nominal value of 1 meter should not exceed ± 5 cm.

Covering the second floor with wooden beams - installation stages

Walls with landing nests are ready, wood and auxiliary materials We have purchased the tools and are ready – we begin the installation of the floors:

One day before installation, the wood is coated with antiseptic mixtures and fire-resistant compounds - with the exception of the ends, no “chemicals” can be applied to them. The choice of such compositions is now very large, you can name brands Finesta, Seine and, Neomid, Pinotex etc. with wide choice antiseptics and fire retardants. All primer must dry well;
We measure the beams and saw them off with a sharp wood saw with a margin of 35-45 centimeters from the size of the room for reliable support on the walls. It should be cut at an angle of 60˚, so that when viewed from the side, the ceiling element looks like a trapezoid with a wide bottom. The ends recessed into the walls are coated with resin and wrapped in roofing felt after it dries;
We install the outer beams. We work from a high, wide and reliable “goat”; stepladders alone cannot be used. We carefully set them according to the level and horizon. Wide sections from the same floors are used as linings, and pre-treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds. Make sure that the ends of the beams do not rest against the walls; there should be a gap for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm in depth;
When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the installation of the side beams, they are secured with dry crushed stone in the landing sockets. The fishing lines are pulled tightly between the outer beams. Other elements of the floor beam frame are installed along these auxiliary lines;
The installed beams are carefully measured and adjusted again, after which the landing nests are concreted with a solution of cement and crushed stone.

Wooden floors between floors are suitable for almost all types of buildings. They are compatible with wood, brick and concrete buildings. Structures are installed not only between floors, but also in attics and basements. You can’t do without them in these rooms, but the arrangement of wooden floors between floors differs from basement structures.

Features of wooden floors

The overlap device includes, for the most part, only wooden elements. However, absolutely any materials are used to finish the ceiling and floor. The main thing is to correctly install the structure itself.

One of the most important functions of flooring is sound insulation. It is very easy to attach any insulating materials, including slabs, to wood. You can easily install any modern finish on top.

A very important advantage of wood construction is its low weight. Wooden floor elements do not exert significant pressure on the base of the building. Therefore, they are often used in houses with light foundations.

Installation carried out according to the rules promotes natural air exchange in the room. At the same time, the heat and sound insulation of the rooms is not compromised.

In general, wooden structures are very durable. They allow in short term create lightweight and durable floors.

Technical requirements for floors

Interfloor structures consist of the following elements:

beams;
bars;
layer of board;
heat and sound insulation layer;
waterproofing film;
finishing board;
ventilation slot;
baseboards.

Note! Wood belongs to the class of highly flammable materials. In addition, it is susceptible to putrefaction, fungi and various bacteria. Therefore, materials for floors must be processed before installation. Minimum set impregnation consists of fire retardants and antiseptics.

Installation and processing

To do the right thing wooden floor between floors you need to figure out the structure of its structure with your own hands. It consists of a beam frame and sheathing made of boards or sheet particle materials.

The role of a heat-insulating and sound-proofing layer is performed by rolled material. Most often, glass wool, mineral wool or similar insulators are used for this. Sometimes expanded clay or polystyrene foam is used. However, the first one makes the structure very heavy, and the second one is highly flammable.

For wooden floors between floors in saunas and baths, it is very important to properly arrange waterproofing. In this case, vapor-proof films are optimal, allowing moisture to pass through only in one direction. The material consists of expanding cones that absorb moisture only from the porous side. No moisture is released from the reverse side of the coating.

Important! Vapor-tight coatings are laid with the porous side facing the insulation, “facing” the room. And for the room above, the film is mounted in reverse.

Floor beams

To figure out how to make a wooden floor between floors, you need to know the features of the structure's frame. Its basis is wooden beams. Most often, elements 15-25 cm in height and 5-15 in thickness are used. There is a distance of up to 1 m between the beams, depending on the cross-section of the elements.

Note! The greater the load on the floor, the larger the cross-section of the beams should be.

The supporting ends are made from 150 mm in length, they are laid using the “beacon” method. First, the outer beams are installed, and intermediate beams are laid between them. The evenness of the installation is checked with a level. The middle beams are laid according to the template. For leveling, you can use various resinous pads from scraps.

Important! You cannot use hewn, pointed wood chips to level beams.

The beams are laid with the same spacing along the entire perimeter, strictly parallel. Before laying, they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and wrapped in 2-3 layers of roofing felt. For brick and block buildings, floor beams are coated with bitumen at the ends. This technique protects the wood from moisture. For walls with a thickness of 2.5 bricks or more, vents are left for ventilation. And at the junction of the wood and the walls, roofing material is laid under the beams.

Reel installation

To cover the floor between floors use various materials made of wood, including boards, plywood and particle boards.

The subfloor in the ceiling is the lower flooring; it is on this that the thermal insulation material. It can also be attached directly to the beams from below. In this case, it performs the function of a rough ceiling, onto which finishing material can be immediately mounted. A floor made using second-rate boards will cost several times less.

The distance from the beams or logs is determined by the thickness of the boards with which the rough covering is covered. They bear the main burden. So, if boards of 2 and a half centimeters are used indoors, a step of 50 cm is needed for attic spaces, and 40 cm for residential spaces. Therefore, it is recommended to use a thick board of 4-5 cm for flooring.

Methods for laying basement floors

For wooden structure a cranial block is required for the base. It will allow you to insulate the floor. After all, it is on this that the panels or board covering the insulation are mounted.

The more popular option is a rough layer of rolled or unedged boards. The material is mounted on wooden block With square section and a side of 5 or 4 cm. It is best to attach the skull beam to the logs with self-tapping screws, but you can also use nails.

Advice! You can attach the board not to the skull block, but to a groove (quarter). It needs to be cut with chisels or power tools. It will take longer.

The subfloor of the basement is insulated bulk materials, including sand. Antiseptic-impregnated sawdust or mineral wool 10 cm thick is often used. To protect wooden structures, the bottom is covered with waterproofing layer. Most practical option- bitumen roll materials. For rooms in contact with moisture, waterproofing is also installed on top.

Insulation and sound insulation

The thermal insulation layer is very important in the design of the ceiling: it performs the function of sound insulation. Therefore, modern synthetic and mineral insulation. They are not susceptible to bacteria and fungi, so they have a longer service life.

Mineral wool is very popular. However, some rolled materials are contraindicated for baths and saunas. It is not recommended to use slag wool in such rooms, as it contains suspended metals. These particles rust from moisture, and the cotton wool sags, losing its properties.

Most often, in rooms with normal humidity, roofing felt is used for waterproofing. Bituminous materials have low cost and excellent performance characteristics. Thick polyethylene is laid on top of the roofing material.

Thermal insulation material is mounted on top of the film. It is very important that there are no gaps between the layers of cotton wool or polystyrene foam, otherwise the room will have low heat and sound insulation. If foam-based board insulation is used, the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam.

By installing the floor of the second and first floors on wooden beams, you can save a lot. Such structures will cost several times less than concrete ones, and you can also handle the installation yourself.

During work, you should follow certain rules. For example, it is necessary to use beams of a certain section, and the pitch must be adjusted taking into account the floor area.

The choice of wooden interfloor floors in cottage construction is mainly due to the fact that such floors are much cheaper than other options for arranging interfloor floors. It’s not even a matter of the materials themselves, but the high cost of installation: reinforced concrete slabs require lifting equipment, special mechanisms to prepare the solution. Floors made of wood can be made without the use of special equipment. This one who became traditional look arrangement of floors, the method can be applied to a house built from wooden materials, brick, lightweight concrete, ceramic block, etc. Of course, such work cannot be completed by one person, but for two strong adult men with construction skills, such home improvement is quite possible.

Among the disadvantages of this building material called relatively low mechanical strength, easy flammability and lack of resistance to damage by organic pests (termites, bark beetles and sawflies). A correctly executed interfloor beam ceiling eliminates any risk of operating the house. How to prepare beams, lay them and carry out water and sound insulation measures?

Which beams are suitable for flooring

The beam is subject to special strength requirements, since it is supported only by its ends. Hardwood wood are not suitable for making interfloor beams. Only coniferous wood that is at least 1 year old can be used. Material that has been dried for 3 years is considered ideal. Beams must be treated with an antiseptic and impregnated with a fire-resistant compound. The ends of the beams should be cut obliquely at an angle of 600, treated with bitumen and dried. It is also possible to burn the ends or wrap them in two layers with roofing felt (roofing felt). The ends of the beams should be left open during further installation, this will prevent them from becoming waterlogged and deforming.

It is most advisable to use rectangular beams. Flexural strength depends on the height of the beam, not the width. A wooden beam with a cross-sectional aspect ratio of 7:5 is most resistant to deflection. Two identical beams laid one on top of the other can support a load 2 times greater than the same beams laid side by side. Therefore, it is always better to increase its height. Wooden beams can have a cross-sectional height from 140 to 240 mm and a width from 50 to 160 mm, they are laid at intervals of 600, 800 and 1000 mm. The choice of section depends on the expected load, the frequency of installation depends on the span length. Romanov's calculator will help you calculate the cross-section of wooden beams; by entering your data, you will instantly receive the recommended cross-section. The load from the beam's own weight can be 60-220 kg/m2, the operational load is assumed to be 200 kg/m2.
Using floor beams, you can provide support for the further arrangement of a wooden balcony.

How to lay beams?

The first and most important condition for the implementation of a wooden interfloor ceiling is the limitation of the span length: without additional support, wooden beams can only be used for a span not exceeding 6 meters in length. As a rule, support is provided only for the overlap between the basement and 1st floor of the house. The optimal distance between the supporting walls is 2.5 - 4 meters. IN modern construction The width of the house is usually in the range of 9 – 12 meters. Floors made of wooden beams, in this case rest on 3 load-bearing walls, one of which runs approximately in the middle of the house, i.e. each beam of 4.5 or 6 meters is supported by its edges on 2 supports, the result is a continuous ceiling supported by 3 load-bearing walls.

The beams are laid along the short side of the span using the “beacon” method: from the edges to the center, first laying the outer ones, then the intermediate ones. It is necessary to mount the outer beams most carefully; they must be laid strictly horizontally; for this you need to use levels different lengths or spirit levels. The horizon can be leveled by placing tarred scraps of boards of appropriate lengths and different thicknesses under the ends of the beams. It is not recommended to trim excess thickness from the beams themselves; you should also not place wood chips. The horizon of the intermediate beams is checked with a lath and a template. The distance between the beams must be the same and they must be parallel to each other. Sockets for beams must be provided at the stage of wall construction, i.e. and calculations of beams must be made at the design stage of the house. Nests (niches) are sealed with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. If the wall thickness is less than 2 bricks, the niches are sealed cement mortar. In thick walls, the ends of the beams are left open to allow ventilation. From the inside of the premises, the holes are sealed with mortar, followed by general finishing.
Every third beam is secured with anchors, which are attached to the beam from the side or bottom. If the wall is brick, then the anchors are embedded in the masonry using mortar. The beams are inserted 15 cm into the wall; the end of the beam is not waterproofed.
The beams are laid near the chimney pipe at a distance of at least 40 cm from it. Typically, this requirement is met by using a crossbar: the beams rest on a support (crossbar), which, in turn, is secured to adjacent beams using clamps. The opening near the pipe must be lined with fireproof materials. The chimney in places where it passes through the ceilings must have a thickening of the walls by 25 cm (grooving), i.e. for 1 additional brick. It is strictly forbidden to lay beams near the chimney and, especially, so that they come into contact with the pipe.

The interfloor ceiling is not insulated, but it is noise, hydro and vibration insulated. The attic floor is made with the obligatory presence of a lower vapor barrier layer. The ceiling between the basement and the 1st floor, on the contrary, must have an upper vapor barrier layer.

Vibration isolation

In order to prevent vibrations from walking on the 2nd floor from being transmitted to the 1st floor of the house, it is necessary to provide vibration isolation. A double floor will help eliminate vibrations: beam and plank; the boards do not come into contact with the subfloor, so all vibrations from walking on the 2nd floor are transferred to the walls of the building. It is necessary to lay boards with a section of ~ 50 x 100 mm next to the beams at a distance of approximately 30 from them, but lower. The boards will support the ceiling structure, but will not be in contact with the floor of the 2nd floor, and the beams will carry the entire load of the 2nd floor, but will not be in contact with ceiling structure. The boards are also attached to the wall with anchors, and their ends are processed in the same way as the ends of the floor beams. Antiseptic and fireproof impregnation of boards is carried out simultaneously with the processing of beams.

Rolling forward

If interfloor hydro and sound insulation is required, it is necessary to install a ramp along the load-bearing beams. Most often, roll-ups are made from wooden panels, pre-made from boards fixed longitudinally or transversely. The shields are supported by holes or cranial bars, which are placed on the side edges of the beams. Shields and bars must be treated in the same way as the beams themselves, with an antiseptic and fire-resistant impregnation. The skull bars mounted in the lower side of the beams and the beams must be in parallel planes. Coniferous wood blocks measuring 40 x 40 or 40 x 50 mm are intended for further installation there is a wooden roll on them and insulating materials therefore must be securely fastened. Often, instead of wooden bars, steel corners are used, which are also fixed at the bottom of the sides of the beams.
The material for rolling is selected so that it can withstand the weight of the backfill materials that are supposed to be used. These can be single-layer panels made of gypsum slag, baked plywood, thin boards and other materials. The knurling must have a fairly dense structure; it must be borne in mind that the presence of several wooden layers increases their noise, so it is recommended to combine all wooden elements of the knurling with tongues.
The roll is covered with roofing felt or glassine to half the height of the beam or a mixture of clay and sand is applied to it. Then, insulating material is poured over this layer, which is also covered with roofing felt or glassine. The insulation is laid only after the layer has completely dried (in the case of using clay and sand). Only materials that do not emit harmful fumes, are resistant to fungal diseases, are not flammable or rotting, i.e. can be used as insulating materials. materials of inorganic origin. In addition, they should not have a large volumetric weight.

Second floor floor, first floor ceiling

It is recommended to make the top flooring two-layer: 20-mm boards are laid on the beams, on which cardboard sheets are secured. And the floor is already laid on the double-layer preparation.
The ceiling on boards laid parallel to the beams is hemmed from any finishing materials: plasterboard, fiberboard, PVC panels, chipboard or others. Drywall has good fire resistance, so it is always recommended to use it. The filing can serve as both a finish and a basis for the installation of other finishing materials. If the ceiling is to be plastered, then unplaned boards with a width of 80 to 100 mm are used for its base. The boards are secured with nails driven in at an angle. The hemming is not done tightly, leaving space between the boards. Subsequently, shingles or metal mesh are nailed to the boards, and a layer of plaster is applied over it.

Quality assessment criteria

A floor made of wooden beams can be positioned as high quality if finished form it:

does not have deviations from the structure axes of more than 15 mm;
does not skew in any direction;
warping is no more than 0.7 mm per 1 m2;
has a horizontal deviation of no more than 2 mm;
does not vibrate or make noise when people walk on the 2nd floor.

Exploitation

Old wooden houses ceilings rarely need to be repaired, this is due to the fact that during their construction beams with a large margin of safety were used and they were laid in small increments. But still, old and new floors must be periodically checked for strength. If there is a suspicion that the beams are weakened as a result of waterlogging or damage by insects, they need to be strengthened. This is done by removing the damaged beam, followed by strengthening and building it up using thick boards; this applies to damage to any parts of the beam (supporting ends and middle part). You can also install additional board supports between those beams that are suspicious.