Inventory metal beacons of engineer AM Shepelev. Inventory beacon for plastering work. Do-it-yourself installation of beacons under plaster

Beacons are used to level the ceiling and walls with plaster. Without the use of beacons it will not be possible to obtain a plastered surface High Quality. Beacons can be installed in different ways, so let’s consider one of the installation methods.

Mortar beacons

The process of installing beacons begins with hanging the wall surface. To do this, a nail is driven in at a distance of 10 cm from the corner and ceiling with the expectation that the surface of its head will be below 5-10 mm of the surface of the final layer of plaster. For greater convenience, you can use a nail instead of a dowel. It will allow you to adjust the thickness of the plaster. Then, using a plumb line or level, install a second nail at a distance of 10 cm from the corner and floor. This way you can get the first vertical line with the formation of nail heads. Carry out in a similar way this procedure on the other side of the wall. The price for construction and finishing work is not high, but you can do everything yourself.

Lighthouses are made from mortar, which is then used for plastering, or from plaster. Gypsum beacons are much stronger, unlike mortar ones, and they are less susceptible to abrasion when the mortar is leveled. These beacons must be cut down. Mortar beacons are weaker, however, they can not be completely cut down, but only cut off a layer whose thickness is 5-10 mm.

It is almost impossible to install the rule on the heads of nails that have already been driven in, and you have to arrange plaster or mortar platforms that bear the name of the brand. In this case, the rule will stick to stamps with particular stability.

Marks around nails are made in this way:

First, tubercles of mortar or plaster are applied, the diameter of which is 50-70 mm above the level of the caps by 3-5 mm.

After the solution has set, it top part cut down to the level of the caps. This is done in such a way that the plane of the mark is parallel to the plane of the wall.

The sides of the solution are cut off on four sides.

Metal beacons

Lighthouses are installed using cement or gypsum mortar. In the process of creating metal beacons, a special beacon profile is used. The beacon profile is 3 m long, so you need to trim it in advance relative to the height of the room. We retreat 10 cm from the corner of the wall and apply plaster mortar in some places, onto which the ball profile is attached. The profile gradually begins to be pressed against the wall from the very center. In the process of attaching the beacon profile to the solution, you need to use a level to check its vertical position, including the absence of waves on the profile itself.

Plastering under the lighthouse is a more correct derivation of the general plane. Beacons for plaster are used for large areas of application of the solution. The lighthouse is selected depending on the wall material and your desire.

In this article you can watch a video tutorial on plastering beacons, where you will see the details of the work and in the photo you will be able to see the variety of beacons that are offered in retail chains.

Today, serious demands are placed on the quality of room finishing - all surfaces must be smooth for further decoration: be it painting walls or gluing wallpaper. Irregularities are most often hidden by plaster, because... she is the most available material and absolutely anyone can use this kind of procedure – from a beginner to a professional. Everything can be done with high quality and with your own hands, you just need to know what you should get in the end.

To facilitate leveling walls with plaster, beacons are used, the varieties of which will be discussed below. You can see snip plaster on beacons in the photo.

The first type is metal beacons

A metal beacon is the most popular and in demand type. Builders like its use due to the following factors:

Despite all positive sides, metal beacons also have their disadvantages:

• The most common defect is distortion of the product geometry. Such a defect can arise both when production standards are violated, and during transportation, as well as storage. Need to check appearance each element in order to avoid unpleasant surprises in the form of defects and monitor their transportation from the store.
• Another flaw is that after repair work rusty streaks may form on the walls. This happens due to the fact that the zinc located on the surface of the metal is destroyed and the oxidation process begins. To avoid this, it is recommended to remove the beacons after plastering the walls.
• It is necessary to take into account that metal beacons very flexible in their structure. For this reason, when installing them, it is necessary to create conditions to ensure the rigidity of the guides - fill the surface with mortar under the beacons.

The second type is plastic beacons

They are in many ways reminiscent of steel ones, but have a number of features and differences, as well as their own characteristic features:

• The material used to manufacture such products is especially durable plastic, and not galvanized steel, as in the option above.
• They are easy to install for an untrained person; this is facilitated by the strength and lighter weight of the product.
• Another feature is the preservation of the original geometry. After deformation, such beacons retain their original appearance and you don’t have to worry about them being damaged during installation or storage.
• Plastic does not oxidize and is not prone to rust, which allows you to leave them in the plaster without worrying about the appearance of rust stains on the walls or ceiling after any long period of time.

The disadvantages of this type are:

• Inability to use when exterior decoration- at low temperatures plastic can break, which negatively affects performance.
• The material the beacons are made of is unable to withstand strong blows and may break.
• If the guides are not secured correctly, they may bend under pressure, which will lead to deformation of the walls or ceiling.

The third type is reusable steel beacons

These products are most often used professional builders, because they can be used repeatedly, thereby recouping their high cost.

Main distinctive features is:

• High strength and rigidity of the guides - they do not need to be carefully secured and monitored for deformation; just fixing them in certain places is enough and they are ready for use.
• Reusable - given positive trait refers to professional workers in the construction industry, because Suitable for those who regularly plaster surfaces.

Such elements have few disadvantages, but they still exist:

• High price - it is unprofitable to buy such products for the renovation of one house or apartment.
• Products can be damaged or broken if they are removed after the solution has completely hardened.

The fourth type is homemade lighthouses

Despite the huge selection of parts and products in stores, homemade beacons still find their use. Their price is the lowest, and it’s not difficult to make. Plastering under a lighthouse video will show you options for such products.

• They are often used metal corner or pipe. It is possible to use other improvised means of a similar design, for example, wooden slats, but such options are poorly distributed and are practically not used by repairmen due to frequent deformation.
• The second option for homemade beacons is a metal profile for drywall; the cheapest option is UD.

Attention: The main disadvantage of this type of product is the increased use of plaster, since to level surfaces with such beacons it is necessary large quantity solution.

Fifth type - string beacons

This type of beacon is the most budget-friendly; the process of their creation is as follows:

1. It is necessary to prepare screws, wire, and a hammer drill.
2. Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled into which dowels are inserted.
3. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the prepared holes at the same level and the wire is pulled.
4. A plaster solution is applied under the wire so that the upper part is slightly higher.
5. After the plaster has dried, upper layer is cut off and a reference point is obtained according to which the surface will be leveled.

The advantage of this method is that it is budget-friendly - the cost of the wire is minimal, and any person who has dealt with repairs at least once in their life will have self-tapping screws.

The disadvantages are:

• Possibility of inaccurate position of screws, which can cause curvature of surfaces.
• Also, curvature may be a consequence of unclear actions when removing the top layer of plaster at the level of the wire.

The sixth type - lighthouses by brand

Another a budget option for one-time repairs.

To carry out the work you need:

1. Draw vertical lines and make holes every 40-50 cm.
2. Screw in the screws on one plane.
3. Apply a little more solution than necessary, then press the rule against the heads of the screws and remove the excess.
4. After the plaster has completely dried, the surface is finally leveled with a spatula.

Minuses this process the following:

• If the self-tapping screws are unevenly positioned, the surface turns out to be deformed, because a single plane is not formed.
• Excessive accuracy is necessary - in its absence, there is a high risk of performing the work poorly.

Do-it-yourself installation of beacons under plaster

Each lighthouse has individual feature installation, and they can be installed on any surface. The video tutorial on plastering beacons will show the specifics of performing the work.

Installation of metal or wooden beacons

To install beacons made of metal or wood, you will first need to carefully select the tools.

For installation you will need:

• Beacons;
• Hammer;
• Trowel;
• Staple;
• The rule is short and long;
• Level;
• Master OK;
• Corner aligner;
• Roulette;
• Construction cord;
• Grater.

Before you start plastering the walls along the beacons, you need to mark out the rooms and determine the installation points for the guides. Most often, beacons for plastering walls are placed at a distance of 120 to 170 cm from each other, depending on the length of the rule. The outer guides are located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the wall.

Attention: The first two beacons are installed on both edges of the wall, then the remaining parts are installed at an equal distance from each other.

Reducing the amount of materials used is as important an installation step as shaping it flawlessly flat surface. To do this you need to do exact calculation quantities required material to determine the thickness of the layer, and also determine the distance of the beacons from the wall.

The action diagram looks like this:

1. It is necessary to mark 20 cm from the vertical corner and 10 cm from the ceiling and drive in the dowel, it should be 10 cm above the surface.
2. An identical product is installed on the opposite side.
3. A construction cord is pulled between these screws.
4. A ring with a plumb line is put on this cord (the plumb line should be at a distance of 2-5 cm above the floor surface).
5. The cord (horizontal) moves away from the wall by minimum distance. A stretched twine moves along the wall plane. The plumb line should not come into contact with the surface.
6. The plumb line must move to the places where the beacons are installed and certain marks are set there.
7. The slats between the beacons are installed in the same way.

However, there are a number alternative options, which require either a partial deviation from the described method, or a significant change in the structure of the work. For example, if the thickness of the solution exceeds 70 mm, there should be no windows or doors on this surface.

• Sometimes there are small protrusions on the surface that are easier to remove than to level - cheaper and faster.
• Metal or wooden beacons are installed using special holders (mounts) or using plaster.
• At this stage, the most important thing is to maintain the principle of compliance of the beacon line with the control marks.

Installation of beacons from solution

In this work, the tools correspond to those used in the situation described above, only it is necessary to add to them plaster mixture and remove the slats.

• Marking and calculating the thickness of the solution layer also correspond to those described in the situation with metal beacons.
• When installing the first beacon (15-20 cm from the edge of the surface), a long rule is applied.
• Using a trowel, the solution is applied into the gap between the wall and the rule.
• After 2 - 5 minutes, it is necessary to remove excess solution using a horizontal rule, passing through the control points.

There are no more differences between installing metal beacons and mortar beacons. Everything happens by analogy.

Installation of string beacons

Required tools and materials:

• Plumb,
• Pliers,
• Screwdriver,
• Hammer,
• Hammer,
• Two strings (cable or wire will also work) without tangles or seals,
• Four dowels with screws,
• Solution.

So:

• Stepping back from 15 to 20 cm from the corners, you should make four holes in the corners of the improvised “square”. It is worth noting that the length of the rule must be greater than the distance between the top and bottom points.
• Dowels are inserted into the holes and screws are screwed in, leaving 1 cm “as a reserve.” 2 strings are installed horizontally between the screws.
• A solution is applied under the strings to prevent string sagging. The action is applied in layers and each new layer is applied only when the previous one has dried.

Beacon plastering technology

The plastering process is quite difficult, but, nevertheless, almost anyone can do it.

It is worth noting that there are two types of plaster: “wet” and “dry”:

• "Wet" represents various mixtures based on cement or gypsum for leveling surfaces.
• "Dry" is not exactly plaster, but covering walls or ceilings with sheets of a certain material, for example, plasterboard (see How to cover walls with plasterboard correctly).

Above you could familiarize yourself with the various intricacies of beacons for solutions, as well as methods for installing them. Now it's time to talk about plastering the surfaces itself.

Applying the solution to metal and wooden beacons

This includes plaster on gypsum beacons and those made from mortar. Here you just need to maintain a plane.

The solution is applied in the following way:

1. The first layer of plaster is applied between the beacons; as a rule, it is applied with a trowel.
2. When the surface is full, you need to level the surface using a short rule.
3. The rule must “pass” through the beacons from bottom to top and vice versa, as well as from left to right and from right to left. The excess, which is removed by rule, is collected and thrown back onto the surface. This is done in order to remove excess air and do the job as efficiently as possible. Thus, it is necessary to treat the entire repair area.
4. The next stage is the extraction of beacons. Dismantling begins from the bottom up and occurs after 5-12 hours, depending on the composition of the solution.
5. The last step is filling up the furrows from the beacons.

The last part of surface treatment can be started after complete drying - 2-4 days.

Applying the solution to beacons made from dry mixtures

It is necessary to remove all irregularities from the installed beacons, because they make moving a rule difficult.

• The main difference between this method of applying plaster and the previous one is that excess mortar must be monitored and the excess must be removed from time to time to maintain the accuracy of the work results.
• After all the work, the beacons are notched and covered with plaster.
• The last step is to cover the surface previously moistened with water with a coating solution.

Applying the solution to string beacons

After the plaster has completely hardened under the strings, you can proceed to plastering the entire required surface.

Attention: String beacons for walls are not subject to deformation, which allows you to work without difficulties.

• Removal of such beacons occurs after the solution has completely dried - the strings are twisted, the screws are pulled out of the walls.
• Some builders are sure that working with string beacons is the most correct. However, this is not always correct, because... excellent quality of work can be ensured by good surface preparation, as well as its good pre-repair condition and not too large a work area.

You will select beacons for plaster according to your plane and the material used. In the video in this article you can see the details and features of the work. And the instructions will help you avoid mistakes.

Installation of solution beacons

If, when grouting in a circle, the plaster has dried out and is hard to rub, it is moistened with water to soften it. You don’t need to wet it very much, since it will be impossible to wipe off wet plaster. When grouting in a circular manner, circular marks remain on the surface. To prevent them from appearing, the plaster is rubbed down “on time” (59.6). Grouting is carried out using fresh grout in a circular manner. First, approximately 1 m2 of surface is grouted in a circular manner and then the grout is then smoothed.

There should be no bumps or missing spots on the rubbed surface, as they will be very noticeable after painting.

Plastering on beacons.

It is difficult to distribute the solution evenly over the surface using a falcon or a grater; it is much easier to do this using beacons.

Beacons are guides along which the rule will move while leveling the solution. Lighthouses can be wooden, metal (steel) or mortar (most often plaster).

It is easiest for an individual developer to make wooden and gypsum beacons. They must be strictly vertical and in the same plane. The most rational distance between beacons is 1.5-2 m; it can be increased to 3 m, but then the rule will have to be moved by two people.

Installation of mortar beacons (60). First of all, the surface of the walls and ceilings is hung. This is how they do it on the walls. At a distance of 200-300 mm from the corner of the wall and ceiling, nail No. 1 is driven in to the thickness of the plaster, i.e. its head should be at a distance of, for example, 20 mm from the prepared surface. A plumb line is lowered from the head of this nail so that it does not reach the floor by 200-300 mm. Nail No. 2 is driven under the cord of an established plumb line so that its head does not reach the cord by 0.5 mm. In the same way, nails No. 3 and 4 are driven into the second corner. Then the plane of the wall is checked by pulling the cord diagonally from nail No. 1 to nail No. 4 and from nail No. 2 to nail No. 3. If the wall turns out to be convex, then the nails are pulled out of the wall so much so that the thickness of the plaster layer at the edges increases, and at the highest point of the convexity it is 20 mm. If the convexity can be somehow leveled before plastering, then the nails are not touched.

On a wall 4-5 m long, between the nails driven in at the edges, it is necessary to drive two more rows of nails No. 5, 6, 7 and 8. First, pull the cords from nail No. 1 to nail No. 3, and from nail No. 2 to nail No. 4. Nails are placed under the tightly stretched cords so that their heads do not reach the cord by 0.5 mm.

To make beacons from mortar, a rule must be attached to the heads of driven nails, for example, Nos. 1 and 2, but it cannot stand on them stably. Therefore, lime-gypsum mortar or gypsum dough is spread on the nails to form small mounds of mortar with a diameter of 50-60 mm. They should be flush with the top of the caps, so excess mortar is cut off as evenly as possible.

To obtain smooth and accurate plaster surfaces, the surfaces must be hung and beacons placed on them. It should be remembered that the more accurately the hanging is done and the beacons are arranged, the more accurate and better the quality of the plaster will be. Hanging is always recommended to be done by two people. To avoid thick plaster marks, protruding areas are cut down.
Hanging walls. The walls are hung using a weight, level or spirit level. The most common tool is the scale; it gives the necessary accuracy, is easy to manufacture and convenient.
The weight (Fig. 22) consists of a plumb line 3 (weight) and cord 2 . The diameter of the plumb line should be 10-20 mm. This diameter allows you to hang surfaces with a plaster thickness of 5 - 10 mm. The mass of the plumb line must be at least 200 G. A smaller mass will not provide sufficient tension on the cord. The cord must be strong, thin and soft, at least 20 m.

The scale is used to check and hang vertical surfaces, hang rules on windows and doorways, preliminary check of the correctness of the surfaces prepared for plastering. Using a cord, check the horizontality of the surfaces. For ease of use, it is recommended to wind the cord on a reel 1 or a board with two cutouts.
When hanging the walls with a weight (Fig. 23) in the upper corner at a distance of 30-40 cm from the husk of the wall and ceiling they hammer a nail 1 so that its cap is separated from the wall surface by the thickness of the plaster layer. Lower the weight from the head of the first hammered nail, let it stop, and drive in the second nail. 2 at a distance of 20-30 cm from the floor. The head of the driven nail should lightly touch the cord stretched plumb. If the room is above 2.7 m, you should drive a third between two nails 3 , but so that its head touches the tightly stretched cord along the two previously driven nails. In this way, a row of nails is driven under the first lighthouse.

After this, in the opposite corner of the wall they begin to hammer nails under the second lighthouse. First the nail is hammered in 4 , then along the cord 5 and between them 6 .
When two rows of nails for two beacons are hammered into the corners of the wall, they begin to check the surface of the wall. The cord is pulled between the nails 1 And 5 , then between 2 And 4 . If the surface of the wall is flat, then begin driving nails to install intermediate beacons. If the cord touches the wall anywhere, then the wall is uneven and there are bulges that need to be cut down.
When this cannot be done, then on one side the nails are pulled out to such a distance that the minimum permissible thickness of the plaster remains in the convex places. The nails are installed again according to weight. After checking and correcting any irregularities, the cord is pulled tightly from the nail. 1 on 4 to drive the nails (in this case 7 And 8 ) for intermediate beacons.
If the walls are long, you have to hammer in not two, but several intermediate nails, since the distance between the beacons should be about 2 m. The cord is then pulled over the nails 3 And 6 and score the intermediate ones - 9 And 10 . Nails are hammered in the same way. 11 And 12 , pulling the cord on the nails 2 And 5 .
All nails driven vertically must be located one below the other on the same straight line.
Using a level, the walls are usually hung in the same sequence as with a weight. It is recommended to use a level with two sights, since they can be used to hang not only walls, but also ceilings.
There are levels different lengths, they are used to check and hang vertical and horizontal surfaces. To work, the level is strengthened with wire or twine on a well-planed rule, the length of which should be slightly less than the height of the room.
The level should be protected from impacts and shocks, as they can lead to the sights falling out and breaking.
To check the level, place it on a cleanly planed, horizontally installed board so that the bubble in the sight line is exactly between the lines, and trace the lower contour with a pencil. Then the level is turned 180°. If at the same time it takes a position along the previously outlined contour and the bubble of the target is between the lines, then it is correct.
When hanging surfaces using a level (Fig. 24), a nail is driven in at the top of the wall 1 to the thickness of the plaster. The second nail at the bottom of the wall is driven in randomly. The rule is applied to driven nails 2 with level 3 . If the level sight is positioned incorrectly, then its air bubble will be shifted away from the central mark. In this case, the lower nail must be driven in or pulled out to such an extent that the air bubble of the sight is positioned exactly between the marks.

Then a third one is driven in between these two nails, the head of which should be in the same plane as the previously driven nails, i.e. the rule should lie exactly on all three nails.
In the next corner of the wall, the second row of nails 1 is driven in level. A cord is pulled along them, the surfaces are checked and intermediate nails are driven in.
Spirit level is simplest form level. Spirit levels come in simple and combined sizes of various sizes: medium with a rail 1 - 1.5 long m and short - 0.5 - 0.75 m. The short rail is attached to the long one at an angle of 90° by means of a tenon. For greater strength, the slats are additionally secured with struts. A nail is driven into the center of the long lath and a weight is attached to it. Then they check the spirit level horizontally and vertically, noting the exact data on its slats in the form of marks. The walls and ceilings are hung with a spirit level in the same way as with a level (Fig. 25).

Hanging ceilings. Ceilings are hung with a level with a rule of length up to 3 m, spirit level or yaw - water level. Before hanging, it is necessary to check the accuracy of the ceiling plane. To do this, four nails are driven into the corners of the ceiling, the heads of which should be spaced from the plane of the ceiling at a distance equal to the thickness of the plaster.
A thin, strong cord is pulled tightly over the heads of the nails. If a bulge is found at any point on the ceiling, it should be cut down. If this cannot be done, the nails are pulled out to such an extent that in the most convex place the distance from the cord to the convexity is equal to the minimum permissible thickness plaster. Hanging should begin from the most convex place into which the nail is driven. Before hanging on the ceiling, it is best to mark the line for the location of the beacons, along which the nails are then driven.
When hanging ceilings level at a distance of 2-3 m From the nail driven into a convex place (depending on the length of the rule), a second nail is driven in and a rule with a level is installed on the heads of the nails. If the level finder is exactly in the center, then the nails are left; if the finder shows a deviation, then the second driven nail is driven in or pulled out by the amount necessary for the level finder to be installed in the exact position without deviations.
Then, at the same distance from the second nail, a third one is driven in; a rule with a level is placed on the second and third nails; The accuracy of setting the level is adjusted only with the third nail. After the third nail, the fourth is hammered in, etc. Ceilings are hung in the same way using a spirit level.
The water level is made of a rubber tube, into the ends of which glass tubes with division lines marked on them are inserted. If a rubber tube is filled with water and glass tubes are brought closer to each other so that their ends are at the same level, then the water in them will stand at exactly the same divisions.
The ceiling is also hung with a water level (Fig. 26) using nails driven in at a certain distance from one another. One nail is permanent, the rest are installed according to the first one. If the plane of the hung ceiling is horizontal, then the water in the tubes will stand at the same divisions when the ends of the glass tubes are placed against the heads of driven nails.

The device of beacons. Lighthouses made of mortar are installed on various surfaces; wooden and metal beacons are installed mainly on wooden, brick and other nailed surfaces, since their installation requires driving in metal marks and fasteners. When installing beacons on brick surfaces, the fastenings are driven into the masonry seam.
Metal and wooden beacons are used mainly for mechanized application of plaster solutions, less often for manual application.
Construction of beacons from solution. A rule is set for driven nails that they must stand exactly on the nail heads without hesitation. To rule 1 was stable, the nails are coated with a solution - stamps are arranged 3 And 4 (Fig. 27).

Stamps are made from plaster mortar or pure gypsum dough, which are applied around the nails in the form of small round tubercles with a diameter of 80-100 mm and necessarily above the level of the nail heads by 3-5 mm. As soon as the solution has set, the top of these tubercles is cut off to the level of the nail heads, giving the marks an even plane. The sides of the tubercles are cut off on four sides and a square is formed with sides 30X30 or 40X40 mm. Often the sides of stamps are cut off to a slight cone. The more accurately the marks are arranged, the more accurate the beacons will be.
Instead of mortar grades, metal ones can be used. They require less time to install because there is no need to hammer nails, apply or cut mortar. Driven in marks are hammered in and checked in the same way as nails.
There are metal stamps various designs, for example in the form of a triangle or in the form of a nail 50-70 long mm with a cap width of 30 - 40 mm.
After the stamps are made, they begin to install beacons 5 . There is a precise rule for this 1 applied to stamps 3 and secured with clamps or frozen with a solution. The length of the rule should be 10-15 less than the height of the room cm. For high rooms apply long rules or merge two short ones.
In between 2 A solution is applied between the wall and the rule, which should completely fill this gap. Remove the applied solution from the sides with a spatula and lubricate the areas not filled with the solution. After the solution has set, the rule is removed by first tapping it. It is best to hammer a small wedge under the rule, which, when moving upward, will force the rule to move away without tearing the mortar from the lighthouse. The sinks on the lighthouses are covered with a solution and cleaned with a trowel.
You should not strengthen the rule with nails, since this method is ineffective and leads to excessive consumption of nails. It is best to use clamps.
Clamps can be simple (Fig. 28, a) and complex (Fig. 28.6). With simple clamps you can not only strengthen the rules for constructing beacons or pulling rods, but also press them against pilasters, columns or beams. This clamp consists of a pin 1 and paws 2 . Complex clamps consist of a pin 1 , staples and screws 7 . One screw presses the bracket to the pin, and the other 3 or wooden lighthouse 5 to the wall or ceiling.

Beacons can be rubbed. When rubbing beacons, a solution is applied between the marks, usually pressed firmly against the marks and moved along them, thus rubbing the plane of the beacon. During rubbing, the solution gets (rubbed) onto the marks and the beacons lose their accuracy, so the solution has to be cleaned off. In addition, this method of constructing beacons requires more labor than the first.
Beacon installation special rule . It is much easier to arrange lighthouses using the rule proposed by A. M. Shepelev. The rule is made of dry wood with a thickness of 35 - 40 mm, width 100 mm. To avoid warping, it is impregnated with hot drying oil.
The rule has two bolts 175 long mm with a thread length of at least 70 mm. The head of the bolt, if it is specially made, is best made in the form of a rod bent at a right angle (like a crutch). The diameter of the bolt depends on the thickness of the rule and can be from 7 to 15 mm. It is advisable to use nuts on bolts rectangular shape. According to the rules, at a distance of 500-700 mm drilled from the ends through holes for passage and free rotation of bolts.
The nuts should be cut into the depth of the rule to their thickness and secured; To prevent the bolts from getting lost, they must be screwed into the nuts.
Attach the rule (Fig. 29) to the surface of walls or ceilings using crutches 2 made of hardened steel. Such crutches are easily driven into the seams of masonry made with cement mortar. The rule can also be secured using regular clamps. For each rule you should take two crutches or two clamps. It is also necessary to make wooden wedges for the crutches 3 , which are driven between the hook of the crutch and the rule to firmly secure the rule.

The rule is applied to the surface, the crutches are driven in, wedges are inserted and the rule is set by weight or level. The installation accuracy of the rules is achieved by adjusting the bolts 1 . When adjusting the bolts, the wedges have to be removed or hammered in several times. Finally established rule secured with the same wedges 3 .
After installing the two rules in the corners, a solution is prepared, which is applied to the space between the rule and the wall surface, thus creating beacons. As soon as the solution sets, the rules are removed, and the cords are pulled tightly along the top and bottom of the beacons. Along the cords in in the right places establish rules for the installation of intermediate beacons.
To make the rule universal, two identical brackets are attached to it at a distance of one meter. A weight is tied to the top bracket, but so that its end does not reach the bottom bracket by 10-15 mm. If, when setting the rule, the sharp end of the weight is exactly opposite the bracket, then the rule is set correctly. Installation of wooden beacons. Wooden beacons are placed like this (Fig. 30). Metal marks or nails are driven into the surface to the thickness of the plaster. Rules with a section of 30X30 or 40X40 are attached to them mm. To remove the solution applied between the beacons, use a small amount of powder. The malka has retractable slats and is made in such a way that the solution is removed at the level of the marks. Small length 120 cm(from it, in addition, the ends extend) you can level the solution between the beacons installed at a distance of 1.2-2 m one from the other.

Installation of metal beacons. In search of a more rational design, several options for metal beacons were proposed. Inventory metal beacons proposed by A. M. Shepelev (Fig. 31) are distinguished by their simplicity of design and the speed of their installation. The solution is leveled over them using a rule or a trowel. Labor productivity when installing these beacons is much higher than when installing mortar ones.

Lighthouses are made from steel or duralumin corners with a section of 25x25, 30X30, 35X35 mm. The thickness of the plaster when using these beacons is 18,22 and 25 mm.
The working part of the beacons is the edge of the corner (usenka) 4 , which makes it possible to accurately install them, and therefore obtain a smooth surface of the plaster.
The length of the beacons depends on the height of the room. Scarves are welded at the ends of the beacons 3 with slots in which the pin moves 1 with nut 2 . Free movement of the pin in the slot is necessary for installing beacons on brick surfaces, where the pins are driven into the masonry joints. The length of the slot in the scarf is 60-70 mm.
Beacons are installed as follows. The beacons pressed to the wall are firmly reinforced with pins. The nut is rotated around the pin with a wrench, and by screwing onto the thread of the pin, it presses the beacon against the wall. First, install the outer beacons, checking their level for verticality on the walls or horizontality on the ceilings. Then intermediate beacons are tightly attached to the wall, for precise installation of which two cords are pulled tightly at the bottom or at the top between the outer beacons.
Correct installation of each of the intermediate beacons is achieved by turning the nut; thus, the edges of the beacon are pressed against the stretched cords. Pins are also made without threads. The nut on them does not rotate, but moves freely and is secured with a screw located in it. The end of the screw should be riveted so that it does not come out completely. To prevent the nut from slipping off the pin, a widening or notch is made at the end of it. With this design of beacons, the parts are completely connected to them and it is impossible to lose them.
If the installed beacons do not reach the surface and do not rest on it, then it is recommended to apply a solution or place wedges under them. This will protect the beacons from bending. The solution is leveled using a rule or a trowel, which is much more convenient than using a trowel.
Installation of beacons on concrete surfaces . In concrete and reinforced concrete surfaces the nails are not driven in. Punching holes with a jumper or drilling and driving wooden plugs into them, and nails into the plugs, is not productive. Therefore, beacons are installed on non-nailable surfaces using a rule to which a level with a vertical and horizontal sight or spirit level is attached (Fig. 32).

Place a mortar mark at the top of the wall 1 , the height of which is equal to the thickness of the plaster. A rule is applied to the brand 2 with level 3 and a solution is applied under its lower end 4 , which is clicked with the end of the rule. At the end of the rule, light blows are applied with a hammer, pressing the rule into the solution to such a depth as is required in order to set the level strictly vertically. Instead of mortar, you can use wedges and use them to adjust the level setting.
After setting the rules strictly according to the level, they are frozen to the surface with a solution.
After the rule is installed on marks or wedges, a solution is applied under it and thus the first beacon is created. The lighthouse is installed in the second corner of the wall in the same way. A cord is pulled at the top and bottom, along which the exact rule for installing intermediate beacons is established.
Beacons of any type (mortar, wood, metal) can be placed not only vertically along the height of the walls, but also horizontally along the length of the walls. To do this, you need two beacons: one at the top - near the ceiling, the other at the bottom - near the floor. The principle of installing horizontal beacons is the same as vertical ones.

In order to obtain an even layer of plaster, it is necessary to install special marks to regulate the thickness finishing material. Our article will tell you about the technology of creating beacons for subsequent application of plaster.

The beacons are installed after the wall has been treated with a primer and are intended to enable you to carefully lay the plaster, ultimately achieving a mirror-smooth surface. In fact, beacons are narrow vertical projections, “rails” for the rule. The beacons will usually be used to rely on, collecting and leveling the solution.

Before you start fixing beacons you should:

• Check the verticality and horizontality of surfaces.

Assess the evenness of the floors along and across using a plumb line and level. To simplify the process, cords stretched over nails driven into the corners of the ceiling will help. If the surface clearly follows the line of the cord, then you are unlikely to experience difficulty with laying the plaster.

Pay special attention to the most capricious elements of the wall - the corners and areas where window plumbs go. It is they who are most characterized by the “undulation” of the structure, which must be eliminated by applying a layer of plaster.

• Select the most protruding place on the surface.

This area will naturally be allocated for the thinnest layer of plaster, and the entire wall will be leveled along it. Thus, the difference in the thickness of the layer of finishing material on the same wall can reach several centimeters.

1. Purchase ready-made beacons, which are thin long slats, at any hardware store. The slats are made of metal, have perforations and come in thicknesses of 6 or 10 mm.
2. Using a plumb line and level, mark the surface for the beacons. The width of the step varies depending on your physical capabilities, since subsequently you will have to guide the layer of plaster exactly along the beacons. Professional repairmen, as a rule, install beacons at a distance of 2 m from each other; for an untrained plasterer, a step of 1.5 m is suitable. The permissible distance from the corners of the room is 20-30 cm.
3. The slats are fixed using plaster (alabaster). Apply drops of alabaster along the created marking line and carefully press the lighthouse to the wall. The amount of alabaster is calculated using a plumb line and a level, because the thickness of the plaster layer is ensured precisely by the size of the alabaster “blame”. Accordingly, in order to achieve a straight, level surface, the thickness of the gypsum in the wall depressions must be greater than for the protruding areas.
4. If desired, if you are not sure of the reliability of the structure, the slats are additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
5. After installation, be sure to check the horizontal position of all beacons.

Thus, planar marks are obtained for plastering surfaces.

Alternative ways to install beacons

Gypsum strips, which are formed from mortar, and dry plaster are also often used as beacons. Let's consider each of the options.

Dry plaster strips

Strips of dry plaster are secured to the wall using gypsum sawdust mastic. In order to make beacons in this way, you need:

1. Slice required quantity even strips of dry plaster, the width of which should be 4 cm.
2. Measure a distance of 20-30 cm from the corner of the room (use a level and plumb line). Make the appropriate markings.
3. Apply a continuous vertical layer of mastic.
4. Coat the prepared strips with mastic on both sides to prevent cracks in the finished plaster.
5. Place a strip of dry plaster on the mastic and press firmly with a plumb line.
6. Place the following beacons at intervals of about 1.5 m.
7. Check their horizontality using a rule or level.

As is the case with metal profiles, you should not remove the beacons after applying the plaster - subsequently they will be perfectly covered with a covering layer of putty.

Plaster "ribbons"

In this case, you should start by creating stamps. Inventory marks are dowels welded to a metal plate. The thickness of the plate is 4-5 mm, dimensions are 40×30 mm.

Ordinary nails can also act as stamps, on the heads of which small pieces of gypsum/plaster mortar are applied. The solution is given the shape of a square with sides of 10-12 cm, leveling the surface to the level of the nail head.

1. Make two marks in each corner of the room: a distance from the corner - 30-40 cm, from the floor and ceiling - 50-60 cm. Accordingly, one of the marks is installed at the top of the wall, the other at the bottom.
2. Press the plumb line to the outer marks and set a few more marks (depending on the width of the room), carefully monitoring the horizontality of the line.
3. Of course, the level to which the mark protrudes from the wall is regulated by the required thickness of the future layer of plaster in this particular area.
4. Next, secure the rule to the marks (with two clamps or steel crutches) and fill the space between it and the wall with mortar.
5. Wait for the solution to harden, remove the tool and eliminate possible defects the resulting lighthouse.

After laying the layer of plaster, remove such marks and beacons by cutting them to a depth of 3-5 mm. Fill the resulting space with plaster solution and grout.

Please note that in addition to vertical beacons, plasterers also use horizontal ones. It is believed that they have an advantage in mechanized nozzle (applying plaster) walls.

Beacon installation technology and their types (video):