Leveling walls with plaster using beacons with your own hands. Striving for quality, choose wall plaster according to the lighthouses! How to install metal beacons

One of the most important stages of leveling walls with beacons with your own hands is choosing the type of dry plaster. There are many factors to consider here:

• type of materials from which the walls are made;
• indoor humidity;
• temperature regime;
• view finishing;
• financial capabilities of the owners.

Walls can be:

• Brick. Such walls are laid with cement mortar, which is why all plasters containing cement will adhere well to them even without reinforcing mesh. The use of gypsum and lime mixtures requires attaching a metal mesh for gypsum mortar and a plastic mesh for lime-based plaster ( slaked lime corrodes metal);
• Concrete. For smooth concrete walls Cement or gypsum-lime mixtures are used. It is good to plaster rough concrete surfaces with a pure cement-sand mortar, without additional components. In all cases, treatment with Betonokontakt is required. The use of gypsum plaster is possible after reinforcing the wall with fine-mesh plastic or metal mesh;
• Porous materials (aerated concrete, gas silicate). After priming the wall with penetrating mixtures, you can use a gypsum or lime based solution. Professionals do not recommend using cement plaster on porous walls, even over reinforcing mesh.
• Wooden. How to align a wall with beacons in a wooden house? This type of wall is the most versatile. They can all be plastered known species plaster and even clay.

In places with high humidity the use of solutions based on gypsum is excluded. Plastering walls along beacons in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet is possible only with mixtures of Portland cement, lime and sand. In dry rooms (hall, children's room, bedroom, corridor) you can use any type of plaster.

In unheated rooms (cottage, garage, workshop) gypsum plaster mixtures cannot be used. When exposed to frost, it cracks (the exception is foam gypsum, which cannot be found on sale, but can be made independently).

For finishing the following can be used:

• Wallpaper. The best option plaster - cement-sand. In this case, ideal adhesion of the wallpaper glue to the wall is ensured;
• Dye. The paint layer adheres well to gypsum plaster. If plastering work made with high quality, the wall surface does not even need to be primed;
• Ceramic (tile) tiles. There is no alternative to cement-sand mortar.

Taking into account the financial capabilities of homeowners, we can recommend:

• Expensive ready-made gypsum mixtures;
• Optimal, in terms of price-quality ratio, cement mortars. By purchasing each component separately, you can save your family budget even more;
• Maximum a budget option- use clay. However, it can only be used to plaster a wooden house.

Taking into account all factors allows you to always choose the most suitable plaster option. If you have the financial means to purchase ready-made mortars, we recommend that you look at the article “”, which will allow you to freely navigate the variety of plasters available for sale.

Brief characteristics of the offered plasters

Leveling walls with plaster using beacons can be done various types dry solutions. However, each of them has its own pros and cons.

Cement mortars the strongest ones create an indestructible layer that holds any type of finish. Resists moisture well. Always cold to the touch.

The advantages include:

• low price of plaster components;
• long “life” of the mixture, which is very important for a beginner in the construction business;
• the ability to vary the proportions of the solution for spraying, soil and covering;
• No special knowledge is needed to apply plaster to the wall.

Flaws:

• plaster is prone to shrinkage and cracking of the surface, but this minus is relative - adding fiber to the mixture completely eliminates it;
• the process is labor-intensive and physically difficult;
• poor adhesion to smooth concrete (walls must be treated with special primers);
• the need to interrupt work to dry each applied layer, which increases the time of plastering itself;
• a long break due to cement hydration between the completion of wall leveling work and the installation of the finishing coating.

Clay plaster used in wooden houses, as well as when plastering fireplaces and stoves.

The advantages include:

• low cost;
• environmentally friendly (can be used in rooms with allergies);
• ability to maintain indoors optimal humidity(excess water in the air is absorbed, and when dryness appears, the moisture returns back to the room).

• takes a long time to dry;
• in rooms with high humidity it sinks very slowly, but nevertheless, under its own heavy weight;
• requires, contrary to the established point of view, experience in stirring the solution and applying it to the wall.

Mortar used in well-heated, dry rooms.

Positive traits:

• ability to engage with all types wall materials, especially stone;
• plasticity after drying, as a result of which the surface does not crack;
• the ability of the plaster to “breathe”, which guarantees an optimal microclimate in the room;
• alkaline environment protects against fungi and mold;
• simple application technology, which allows you to do the work yourself.

However, it has several significant disadvantages:

• after drying, unevenness appears on the surface, regardless of the quality of the grout, which requires mandatory putty;
• long time You cannot drive nails or screws into the plaster - the hardness is very low. After a few months, the required strength will appear, but it will be an order of magnitude lower than that of the cement-sand mortar, and therefore, with random sharp blows, it will crumble (real life example: when children threw a tennis ball at a wall, they damaged the lime plaster under the wallpaper );
• in the absence of a primer, the spray is made with cement-lime mortar;
• more high price compared to cement plaster.

Gypsum plaster works well in the living room, dining room, bedroom, children's room. It is plastic, which is convenient to use, dries quickly, and has good heat and sound insulation properties. The advantages include a large assortment this type of mixture is on sale.

Among the disadvantages:

• high price;
• fear of water;
• quick setting, which does not allow mixing the solution in large quantities;
• softness, which leads to surface damage due to minor contacts of sharp objects with the wall.

Tools and materials

When leveling walls using beacons with your own hands, you should take care of tools, building materials and consumables in advance.

To prepare plaster you should buy:

• cement grade M400;
• river sand (upon purchase quarry sand it must be sifted and, preferably, washed);
• PVA (accelerates the setting process);
• propylene fiber for reinforcing plaster - prevents its shrinkage and cracking of the surface;
• primer mixture “Betonokontakt” for concrete walls or Ceresit CT 16 for brick walls.

In addition, you must have access to water.

Preparing walls for plastering is done using:

• hammer;
• chisels;
• brushes;
• trays for the primer mixture;
• metal brush;
• Bush hammers (trojans or cogs).

To install beacons you will need:

• metal non-galvanized T-shaped profiles 2.5 m long (if the ceiling height is higher, you should buy 3-meter beacons) and 0.6 cm high;
• Kremmer clamps or clips;
• dowels with a diameter of 8 mm;
• self-tapping screws

Installation of beacons requires the following to be available:

• portable platform (you can use a stepladder, which is not very convenient, or a table);
• electric drill with a drill for concrete with a diameter of 8 mm;
• a hacksaw for cutting metal profiles (it is more convenient to cut with a grinder);
• square;
• screwdriver with a cross-shaped attachment for self-tapping screws;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• ruler 2 m;
• plumb line;
• marker;
• bubble or laser level;
• strong cord (fishing line).

Plastering walls along beacons cannot be done without the following tools:

• containers for stirring plaster;
• ladle;
• falcon;
• trowels;
• grater;
• graters;
• fry;
• ironers;
• set of spatulas.

Attention: those who like to do everything themselves do not always know the purpose of all types of tools listed above. This gap in knowledge will help fill the material “”, in which you can also find a photo of each instrument.

Calculation of plaster consumption

The consumption of dry mixture when plastering walls with your own hands using beacons depends on the curvature (unevenness) of the wall surface. The greater the vertical slope, the more ready-made mixture or its components will be required.

Calculating the required number of mixture components is not very difficult. After installing the beacons or forming the plaster plane, key points are determined from which calculations will be carried out. They must be marked along the lines of the beacons at the same level from the floor.

Important: when determining the area of ​​a wall, you should always take into account the dimensions of door and window openings.

The more points, the more accurate calculations. Then the distances of each point from the surface of the plaster or beacons are measured. The values ​​are recorded and then summed. The resulting number is divided by the number of control (key) points. The result obtained gives the average thickness of the plaster. Multiplying it by the area of ​​the wall, we get the amount of solution in m3.

But this figure will be required when mixing the solution yourself, when you buy the components. To do this, you need to know the amount of binder in the solution and the ratio of the mixture components.

In accordance with construction tables, 1 m 3 of plaster should contain:

• Portland cement M400 - 240 kg;
• slaked lime - 215 l (since slaked lime has specific gravity 2.3-3.2 t/m 3, it is not possible to indicate the exact weight);
• clay - 250-500 kg (the specific figure is determined by the fat content of the clay);
• gypsum - 850-1000 kg (depending on the degree of its looseness - a denser composition has more weight).

The ratio of components of various solutions is shown in the table below:

When purchasing ready-made mixtures, it is enough to know the area of ​​the wall and the average thickness of the mortar. Then everything is simple: manufacturers must indicate on each bag the consumption rate of the mixture per 1 m 2 with a plaster layer thickness of 10 mm (1 cm).

We multiply the wall area in m2 by the average thickness of the plaster in cm and the consumption of the plaster mixture in kg per 1 m2. Divide the resulting number by the weight of the bag. The result is the number of bags of dry mortar.

Preparing the wall for plastering

The process of plastering a wall begins with its careful preparation. If you ignore this type of work, plastering through for a short time will begin to crack and fall off.

You should start by removing the previous coating from the wall: paint layer, wallpaper, tiles, etc. Next, if provided for in the repair plan, replace windows and doors, inspect the electrical wiring (if necessary, install it in grooves). Complete the re-laying of utilities.

Remove dirty stains and dust from walls, open masonry joints in brickwork, repair small cracks and chips in concrete walls, special tools apply notches to the brick and concrete for better adhesion of the plaster mortar to the wall. Treat with special primers. On wooden walls fill the shingles.

To avoid repetition, everyone who wants to learn more about the technology preparatory work Let's refer you to the work posted on our website: "".

Beacon device

The most important and difficult stage during plastering is the installation of beacons. This can be done in the classic way (by hanging) or using a “spider”. The "spider" method is simpler, although errors of 1 mm are possible. Experienced professionals avoid this drawback by re-calculating the thickness of the plaster after fixing the hardware heads under the beacon profiles.

The work is carried out step by step as follows:

1. In the left corner, 10 cm from the adjacent wall and 0.2 m from the ceiling, a dowel is driven in. A self-tapping screw is screwed into it. 4-6 cm is left on the surface (with further work they will all screw in and out);
2. A plumb line is attached to the head of the screwed-in hardware (if you have a level with a laser, the work will go faster);
3. At a height of 0.2 m from the floor, along the plumb line, a dowel is driven in and a self-tapping screw is screwed into it until it aligns with the upper hardware;
4. Similar work is carried out at the other end of the wall;
5. Having retreated 10 cm inside the wall from the resulting lines, the lines of the outer beacons are formed, for which self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels at a distance of 0.2 m from the ceiling;
6. The distance between the extreme lines of the beacons is measured and divided into equal spans of 0.8-1.50 m - we get intermediate beacons;
7. We mark them with chalk (marker, pencil) and screw in self-tapping screws in the upper part (20 cm from the ceiling);
8. We stretch vertically, and very tightly, the fishing line (string, thin cable) between the outer screws;
9. We connect both lines with twine;
10. Moving the thread up and down along the fishing line, we take measurements along each line of the lighthouse and along the wall as a whole. The task is to find the most convex place on the surface of the wall and, similarly, on one of the lines of the lighthouse.

After finding the highest points on the wall and on one of the lines of the lighthouse, we carry out calculations in order to construct the planes of the plaster and the heads of the screws for the lighthouses. Upon completion of the calculations along the lines of the beacons, we screw in the hardware and bring them into one mirror with the upper screws. Work at this stage is best done manually, using a screwdriver. The work is completed by installing the beacons on self-tapping screws using mortar or special fasteners.

Detailed instructions for installing plaster beacons are given in the material “”.

Instructions for plastering walls

How to plaster walls using beacons? If you clearly follow the step-by-step progress of work, then there is nothing difficult or incomprehensible even for a beginner. Level the wall using:

• soil;
• covers.

They are applied to the wall sequentially, after the previous layer has dried.

Spray. The main task of this layer is to provide good adhesion plaster with the wall, which is achieved by changing the ratio of the components of the solution (table above) towards increasing the amount of cement, gypsum or lime in its composition. The mixture should have a consistency similar to sour cream. A spray of 4-5 mm thickness is applied.

Before starting work, if no primer has been applied, the wall is wetted: a dry surface will take some of the moisture from the solution and disrupt its proportions. As a result, the chemical process of cement stone formation, called hydration, will be disrupted.

Work begins from the left corner, proceeding from left to right, from bottom to top, in a stripe between the beacons. Only after completing the work between the first and second beacons do they move on to the next passage, etc.

Plaster can be applied using two methods:

• The plaster mixture is poured onto the falcon and brought to the surface of the wall. A small amount of solution is taken from it with a trowel and applied to the wall with an energetic movement away from you (hence the name “spray”). The movement should be performed by the hand, not the arm. Plaster slaps are placed next to each other until they fill the space between the beacons. No omissions are allowed. After this, the second row is sprayed, etc. Having completed the span, the strongly protruding mixture is removed, but the layer of solution is not leveled;
• The solution is poured onto the falcon, brought close to the wall and spread over it with a trowel. This is the so-called spreading. In this option, you can spread the solution with a grater, which is faster.

Priming. The second layer is applied after the spray has dried (the approximate drying time for plaster layers is given in the table below). They level the wall.

The solution is brought to the consistency of bread dough. Allowable thickness- 2.0 cm (if it is exceeded, the plaster slides). If a thicker layer of soil is required, the operation is performed in several stages.

The plastering technology is simple: with a trowel, the solution is applied from left to right, in the direction from floor to ceiling, into the recesses left after spraying. The work is carried out in small sections, usually along the spans between the guides.

The applied solution should cover the surface of the profiles. Excess plaster is removed using a rule that is pressed tightly against the surface of the profiles and, moving upward from the floor, cuts off the layer of mortar protruding beyond the beacons.

The plaster that falls on the rule does not return back to the surface of the wall, but into the prepared solution. If after the first leveling there are depressions left, they are filled with mortar and the procedure for cutting off excess plaster is repeated from the beginning.

The work is completed by leveling the soil with a trowel. The main task of this technological operation is to fill the holes, voids and depressions remaining after the rule.

The mortar is applied to the wall with a trowel, and then rubbed into the ground with a trowel, up and down or in a circular motion, filling all surface defects. Excess plaster from the trowel must be regularly removed and returned to the general solution. If such plaster is returned to the wall, it will fall off due to dehydration.

Covering. The third layer is applied after the previous layer, the primer, has completely dried. The solution is prepared from cement and river sand sifted through a fine sieve. Water is added until the consistency of heavy cream (flowing sour cream) is obtained.

Using a ladle or bowl from the utensil set, the plaster mixture is poured onto the wall. As a result, we get not a pile of solution, but a wet spot, which is immediately treated with a grater soaked in water. It presses tightly against the surface of the wall and rubs the liquid solution into the ground in a circular motion. If there is not enough solution, you can safely add it.

Final work

After an 8-10 hour pause, the plaster is washed. A mug pours out onto a small section of the wall. pure water. You should start from the top and work downwards. The wet surface is rubbed with a polyurethane trowel (no plaster solution is used, only water and a trowel). This way the wall is sanded. Experienced craftsmen are able to achieve a smooth and velvety surface that does not require putty.

It is better to remove the guide profiles before the plaster is completely dry. The destroyed plaster layer is repaired either with mortar or putty.

Video on the topic

Beacons are tools for leveling walls before applying plaster or other finishing material. To use them, you do not need to have serious construction skills; working with them is simple.

A beacon for leveling walls is a long strip made of galvanized steel or aluminum with perforated holes. It is preferable to use a galvanized beacon profile, since it does not rust and can be left in the plaster for a long time. The holes in the beacon are needed to better fix the profile.

In cross section, the lath resembles an inverted letter “T”; its upper edge serves as a guide when applying plaster, and the legs are used to secure the beacon in the solution.

Types of beacon profiles

The length of the beacons varies from 250 to 300 cm, width - from 20 to 22 mm, height - from 6 to 10 mm.

The size is selected depending on how strong the differences in the walls are. The greater the height of the slats, the more plaster will be used to finish the wall.

Preparatory work

Before installing the beacon, it is necessary to prepare the concrete walls for applying plaster. The remnants of the old coating are cleaned off, all surface imperfections are removed (chips are filled with plaster solution, and protruding elements are knocked down). Cover the wall with primer.

Tools for work:

• level (hydraulic level);
• roulette;
• metal scissors;
• hammer;
• putty knife;
• nylon thread;
• rule;
• pencil.

Using a tape measure, measure the height of the wall, and use metal scissors to trim the profile to the desired length.

The level determines the most protruding point of the wall. The greater the difference between the main plane and this point, the more plaster will be needed for leveling.

Using a building level with a pencil, mark the beacons: step back 10 cm from the corner, mark the location of the first one, the next one should be slightly less rule(about 15 cm).

Before setting up the beacons, you need to choose a method for fixing them. You can use special fasteners or fix them with plaster mortar.

Installation of beacons on fasteners

Beacons for leveling the walls are installed in increments of 20 - 30 cm. Future fixation points are marked with a pencil, and then holes are drilled for installing dowels.

The first beacon must be placed on the initial marking line, 10 cm from the corner. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the upper and lower dowels, and a plumb line is pulled between them to level them. It is better to tighten the screws at this stage with a screwdriver, this way you can achieve greater accuracy. Next, the installed profile is secured along its entire length.
Similar actions are performed with the lighthouse at the other end of this wall. After this, threads are pulled between the beacons, which will serve as a guide for installing the profiles in the middle of the wall. They should be tightened in at least three places: top, middle and bottom. The threads are secured not to the profile, but to dowels, so as not to knock down the beacon; pull it tight enough.

Installation of profiles on the solution

The second method of fixing beacons involves the use of cement or gypsum mortar. This is a budget option.

You can use ready-made putty mixtures or prepare them yourself. To do this, add one part of gypsum to 10 parts of cement-sand mortar. If you add more, the solution will dry faster.

A small amount of the mixture is applied to the wall surface every 10-15 cm along the pre-designated line for the location of the beacon at a distance of 10 cm from the corner. Attached is the profile. Press gently. Align it so that there are no kinks.

Excess mortar is removed from the side surfaces of the profile and from the wall. Again they check how level the exposed beacon is.

The same actions are performed from the other corner of the wall. Wait until the solution dries, securely fixing the profiles.

Threads are pulled between two beacons located at different ends of the wall. Next, you need to install the remaining beacons, focusing on the threads. Excess plaster is removed.

Plastering process

Leveling the walls using beacons begins with treating the surfaces with antiseptic agents and a primer. After the walls have dried, apply a rough layer of plaster. At this stage, the task is to repair all the irregularities. The solution is left to dry until the next day.

The second layer is leveled using the rule - it is applied to the two nearest beacons and drawn from bottom to top. The areas along the profile itself are not sealed to make it easier to dismantle the beacons after the work is completed.

If after this there are holes on the surface, they are filled and the rule is used again. They do this until they achieve a perfectly smooth surface.

Plastering corners is carried out using a corner trowel. The processing of corners begins when the main surfaces have already been processed and the solution has already dried.

Removing beacons

When the work is completed, the beacons need to be dismantled.

To do this, use pliers and a shaped spatula. The profile is picked up with a figured spatula, taken with pliers, and pulled. While the plaster is still fresh, this is easy to do. The beacon should be pulled carefully, without sudden movements, otherwise significant damage may occur along the entire wall. You can learn more about the process of removing beacons from applied plaster by watching the video.

The holes from under the dowels are sealed, plaster is applied in place of the profile and leveled, focusing on the main surface of the wall.

Before final finishing there is almost always a need to level the walls, for which one of the following is often used: the oldest ways– plastering. Providing ideal geometry to plaster is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. For this purpose, many technological methods have been developed, the most widespread of which is plastering walls along beacons.

Installing beacon strips allows you to simplify the solution of the main task when plastering - bringing the geometry of the walls to ideal. Beacons are placed in such a way that while maintaining verticality along the entire length of the wall, the layer of plaster is minimal.

Materials, tools and wall preparation

To level the walls, you will need the following tools:

• Master OK;
• two rules (short and long);
• putty knife;
• laser level (or building level and plumb line);
• mixer;
• a clean container for mixing the solution;
• screwdriver and screws;
• a large brush for applying primer to the wall;

Materials you will also need:

• dry plaster;
• water;
• primer;
• gypsum;
• metal or fiberglass mesh (if a thick layer of plaster is expected to be applied);
• beacon strips.

Having resolved the issue with tools and stock of material, you can proceed directly to work.

Video instruction

Beacon strips for plaster: types and methods of fastening

The most common beacon strips in the form of a T-shaped metal profile 3 m long (you can read about the types of profiles for gypsum boards). Horizontal planes lighthouses are perforated. The vertical projection may be different sizes, 6 and 10 mm options are more common.

Beacons are made of aluminum or galvanized steel. Aluminum beacons are interesting because they do not rust. Accordingly, they can be left in the plaster layer. However, in practice, lighthouses it is customary to remove the planks, because very thin layer the plaster above them may crumble over time, ruining appearance walls. In addition, aluminum beacons are somewhat more expensive than steel ones. If the price of a standard three-meter galvanized 6-mm beacon is approximately 15 rubles, then for aluminum version sellers ask for about 20. With large volumes of work, the difference in costs becomes noticeable.

After the self-tapping screw is tightened to the required level, the “eared” is adjusted directly to its head. A beacon strip is placed on top, and the ear-mounting ears are bent with pliers, tying the entire structure into a single rigid “sandwich”.

Galvanized steel beacons are cheaper, but susceptible to corrosion. However, due to the fact that they are still removed after the plaster hardens, it is these beacon strips that are most often used for plastering work. You can read about ceiling plaster.

Regardless of what material the beacons are made of, they have one purpose: they serve as a guide when applying plaster to level the wall. Securely fixed in the correct position, such planks allow you to simply throw on the plaster and level it according to the rule. The rule moves along the beacons as if on “rails,” which significantly simplifies the alignment of walls and makes the result better.

Securely fixed in the correct position, such planks allow you to simply throw on the plaster and level it according to the rule.

There are two main ways to install beacon strips:

1. for cement mortar
2. on plaster

The solution is convenient due to its long hardening time, which allows you to eliminate possible flaws. Gypsum speeds up the whole process, but places serious demands on the skills and experience of the performer.

In addition, there is a method of attaching beacon strips to clamps called “ears”. Such fasteners are convenient because they allow you to adjust the height of the beacon at any time, even during basic plastering work. “Ushastik” is a square metal bar with clips on the sides. There is a hole in the center for a self-tapping screw. After the self-tapping screw is tightened to the required level, the “eared” is adjusted directly to its head. A beacon strip is placed on top, and the ear-mounting ears are bent with pliers, tying the entire structure into a single rigid “sandwich”. To adjust the height of the beacon ears bend back, turn the self-tapping screw to the desired level and fasten everything back. The cost of eared ears is low and amounts to about 2-3 rubles per piece.

The disadvantage is that it is labor intensive, because The “ears” are installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other, and this increases the amount of work. Another disadvantage of such clamps is the difficulty of removing them.

Ordinary beacons removed using pliers and a spatula. Using the corner of a spatula, slightly lift the beacon strip and then remove it completely with pliers. Using the same spatula and a short rule, the mark from the lighthouse is plastered over again.

Plastering with beacon strips, as well as other plastering work in general, is justified only with a certain thickness of the applied layer. Maximum thickness depends on the type of plaster mixture:

• for gypsum-sand mixture – 10-25 mm;
• for cement-sand – 15-30 mm.

The thickness of the plaster layer can be increased by reinforcing it with a mesh of metal or fiberglass. In this case, the thickness of gypsum-based plaster can be increased to 35 mm, cement - up to 50 mm. If, given the existing curvature of the walls, it is not possible to get by with layers of plaster of such thickness, it is necessary to change the entire working technology. You may have to do some serious wall leveling or installation.

Optimal number of layers of plaster equals three. Each layer should not be thicker than 12 mm. When using special improved plasters, the number of layers can be increased to four.

But even with the highest quality mixture, cracks may appear as it dries. To prevent this from happening, it is strongly recommended that rough walls be thoroughly treated with a primer. This will not only improve the adhesion of the plaster, but will also make the process more uniform. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the external plastered corners. They can be protected from cracking and destruction by plaster corners, which are installed in the same way as beacons.

How to properly prepare walls for further leveling?

You need to start by thoroughly cleaning the walls. You should remove old wallpaper, get rid of old plaster, paints, etc. finishing materials. As a result, there should remain perfectly clean rough wall. The less dust and other contaminants remain on it, the easier it will be to apply new plaster, and the stronger it will hold in the future.

It will become easier to remove dirt if you use a 3% solution rather than plain water to clean the walls. of hydrochloric acid. However, old and deep greasy spots This method will not help. For similar cases best option – physical removal of part of the wall perforator.

If the rough wall is formed by a dense laying of smooth bricks, then in this case it is recommended to give it a certain degree of roughness. This can be achieved by cutting notches into the brick. The length of the notch is 10-15 cm, the depth is several millimeters. The easiest way to create notches is with an ax or hammer drill. Walls made of porous bricks can be plastered without notches.

Masonry seams will also require attention. To a depth of approximately 10 mm, it will be necessary to remove the remaining solution from them. This will increase the reliability of adhesion of the plaster to the wall.

Nuances. Wooden walls

Smooth wooden walls will also require preparation to improve adhesion. The essence of the preparatory work comes down to filling the reinforcing base under the plaster. The following can be used as reinforcing material:

• synthetic reinforcing mesh;
• special mats made of reeds;
• thin wooden slats.

In addition to cleaning, the rough wall requires preliminary priming with special priming compounds.

How to install beacons to properly align walls?

Installing beacon strips allows you to simplify the solution of the main task when plastering - bringing the geometry of the walls to ideal. Beacons are placed in such a way that while maintaining verticality along the entire length of the wall, the layer of plaster is minimal. Accordingly, before starting the entire procedure, you will need to find the most protruding parts of the wall.

If the protruding part is not too large in area and can be removed somehow, then it is best to do so.

Installation step vertical beacon strips depends mainly on the length of the rule and the experience of the performer. The distance between beacons should be at least 20 cm less length rules. The more they differ, the greater the degree of freedom of movement the rule will receive.

The installation step of vertical beacon strips depends mainly on the length of the rule and the experience of the performer. The distance between the beacons should be at least 20 cm less than the length of the rule. The more they differ, the greater the degree of freedom of movement the rule will receive.

In addition, if you place the beacons at a short distance, it will be physically much easier to level with plaster, since you have to move a smaller volume of it. Therefore, for beginners, we can recommend a distance of 1.2-1.5 m. This step is also interesting because it allows you to abandon the use of the standard two-meter rule and use a shorter and convenient option tool. It is advisable to distribute the beacon strips at equal distances from each other.

Then you can start placing beacons, which is done in one of three ways.

First: Classic way

It consists of stringing cords along the wall. One pair of cords is stretched along the ceiling and floor, the other - in the corners, the third - along the diagonals.

The support for the cords will be dowels screwed into the corners of the wall so that 15-20 cm remain from them to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. free space. The cords should run as close to the dowel head as possible. The optimal distance from the plane formed by the cords to the most protruding part of the wall is from 15 mm. Minimum – 10 mm. Verticality is controlled by a building level or a simple plumb line.

Now you can start to install the first vertical beacon at the level of the extended cord. To do this, spots of mortar are placed vertically on the wall under the dowels further along the cord, to which it is best to add about 10% gypsum to speed up hardening.

Next, the poppy strip is pressed into the solution until its ends rest on the heads of the screws. In the middle part of the wall, the position of the beacon is controlled by the level of the tensioned cord. This stage is completed by monitoring the position of the beacon with a building level. Additional beacons are installed in a similar way. The need for additional beacon strips arises when the length of the rule is not enough. When installing them, you should focus on the position of the diagonal cords, as well as the already installed beacons.

Second: Method of installing beacons using laser builder

This method is currently the main one, since it is the fastest and quite simple. Simplification is achieved by the fact that the laser plotter (level) allows you to project verified vertical and horizontal lines onto the wall. Accordingly, control over the position of the head in space during its installation is simplified.

This method is currently the main one, since it is the fastest and quite simple. Simplification is achieved by the fact that the laser plotter (level) allows you to project verified vertical and horizontal lines onto the wall.

The procedure here will be as follows:

1. a vertical line is projected onto the wall at a distance of 20-30 cm from the corner. A vertical continuous line is drawn using a marker or pencil;
2. stepping back 1.5-8 m to the side, another vertical line is drawn on the wall in the same way. The amount of indentation depends on the length of the rule and should be 0.2-0.5 m less than it;
3. along the marked lines at a distance of 0.6-0 m, self-tapping screws are roughly screwed into the wall;
4. The laser builder is installed in such a way that there is a distance of 10-15 mm from the vertical plane it creates to the most protruding part of the wall. This virtual plane itself must be parallel to the wall;
5. The screwdriver is equipped with a suitable bit for the existing screws;
6. a self-tapping screw is screwed in as deeply as possible into the most protruding point of the wall, called the “zero” point, after which a mark is made on the bit. To make the mark clear, it is best to cover the screwdriver bit with one layer of white masking tape;
7. The screws screwed in roughly are tightened until the mark on the bit matches the mark from the laser builder. It is impossible to change the position of the builder after creating a mark on the bit at the “zero” point.

The result of this operation will be vertical rows of self-tapping screws, the caps of which are in the same plane. You can check the work by applying a rule or a long building level.

The remaining steps for installing beacons will be exactly the same as for classical way. The difference will be that the beacon strip will need to be buried in the solution not “by eye”, but until it rests on the heads of the screws.

Third: Method of installing a beacon on plaster

This will also require the use of a laser builder. The essence of the procedure is to throw vertical rows of gypsum mortar onto the wall, into which the beacon strips will be installed. The position of the planks when pressed into the plaster is controlled by a laser beam.

Now you can begin installing the first vertical beacon at the level of the extended cord. To do this, spots of mortar are placed vertically on the wall under the dowels further along the cord, to which it is best to add about 10% gypsum to speed up hardening.

This method requires fewer steps, but for beginners it can cause serious difficulties. Firstly, you will have to work quite quickly and act with confidence, since the gypsum hardens extremely quickly. Secondly, you must have sufficient experience similar works so that the slats are immediately installed in the desired position.

Using beacons

In essence, this method is similar to the previous one, but instead of beacon strips, special beacon marks are used. This option is acceptable only for professionals, because... should be used liquid plaster, which is quite difficult to work with. The main advantage of this method is that there is no need to remove the marks after plastering.

All work on one wall should occur with as few time gaps as possible. This will ensure uniformity of the plaster coating.

Common mistakes when leveling walls with your own hands

Without extensive experience, you can easily make a lot of mistakes. Therefore, it is worth learning about the most significant rules in advance.

1. It is unacceptable to start work on an unprepared wall. Dust and sand, as well as the lack of primer, will cause uneven tension within the plaster layer during the drying process. Accordingly, cracks and shedding will appear.
2. There may be incompatibility between the wall material and the plaster mixture. For example, an attempt to plaster a wall made of cellular concrete with gypsum mortar will end in failure.
3. Do not plaster wet concrete walls. The minimum humidity of the base is 4%.
4. Finally, all work on one wall must be done with with as few time gaps as possible. This will ensure uniformity of the plaster coating.

In general, plastering walls with your own hands is a rather trivial task (you can find out how to level walls with plasterboard in), which can be completely solved by even a novice master. The use of correctly installed beacons generally simplifies the task by orders of magnitude. It is enough just to understand in advance the essence of the upcoming actions and strictly follow the proposed recommendations.

The cost of such work from specialists

Besides, self installation Lighthouse strips save about 50 rubles per 1 sq.m. If you completely refuse the services of specialists and plaster the wall on our own, then you can save up to 450 rubles or more per square meter.

Beacons for leveling walls are a simple, but at the same time unique device that is simply irreplaceable for such work. It is difficult to imagine how much time it will take to level the surface with plaster or other material, if you do not resort to the help of beacons. Indeed, they greatly facilitate all finishing and repair processes, but provided that they are correctly selected and installed according to the requirements.

So what are these irreplaceable helpers for leveling walls? First of all, you need to understand the principle of working with them; there is nothing complicated about it. More generally, beacons are devices that are fixed to walls at certain intervals. Each element must be in line with other parts.

Metal strip

There are several types of beacons, each of which has its own characteristics. The metal version is considered the most popular. It is a strip called a beacon strip. For ease of use, there are parts with a height of 3, 6 and 10 m. Advantages of the product:

1. There is no need for additional preparation, the elements are completely ready for use.
2. Installation will not take much time, but only if you have some operating skills.
3. Plastering is carried out a short period of time after their installation, provided that a gypsum solution was used for fixation. There is no need to wait when using dowels.
4. If required, the planks can be quickly cut, this makes it possible to adjust them to any size.

Undoubtedly, this variety has many advantages, so many do not take into account the existing disadvantages and encounter problems that arise during work. Flaws:

If a galvanized profile is left in the wall, it will rust, so the beacons need to be removed and the grooves sealed with the same plaster mortar

Thus, you need to consider all the pros and cons to avoid further problems.

Metal pipe

This option has a significant difference from the previous one, although both are made of metal. Such beacons are a pipe or a square profile and have the following advantages:

1. Good strength, which is achieved due to the fact that the fixing composition is applied along the entire length of the part. This prevents elements from falling off.
2. Using a square profile makes the job much easier.
3. Fragments can be used for work different lengths. If required, they can be quickly adjusted to the required parameters.

Of course, there are also some disadvantages, which in some cases coincide with the disadvantages of the lighthouse batten:

• Any defects in parts preclude their use, so it is advisable to check the elements with special care.
• During extraction, the pipe or profile may become bent, making it unsuitable for other work.
• The cost of the material is much higher.

On a note! This option is more suitable for cases when the work is carried out by a home craftsman without experience or there is no opportunity to purchase a metal strip.

Lighthouses made of plaster or cement

This is the most cheap way, but it can cause difficulties for a person who has not encountered their manufacture. For work you will only need the material that is available for finishing activities - putty or cement mixture. Can be used in large and small areas. Significant disadvantage The time required to create all the elements for alignment is considered, as well as the need to wait for them to dry.

Fastening beacons

Aligning walls with beacons requires them correct installation, this will depend on final result. Therefore, compliance with all stages and extreme composure will be required to avoid rework.

Fixing a metal profile-rail

Such strips can be installed in two ways, which are selected based on the specific situation.

Using dowels

Performed according to the following scheme:

This option allows you to cladding walls along beacons with your own hands by adjusting the thickness of the plaster layer.

VIDEO: quick way installation of beacons

Application of gypsum mixture

How to set beacons using a solution? To do this, you will need a mixture of gypsum, cement and sand, metal slats, a level and a long, even lath. Installation technology: marking is carried out, as in the previous version, mixed required quantity solution, the mixture is applied pointwise along the entire length of the line and beacons are immediately installed. Each exhibited element is checked for level. Final fixation is achieved by laying another layer of mortar.

The process seems simple, but requires some experience.

Installation of beacons made of cement and plaster

This process will require more time. Fixation occurs according to the following algorithm:

1. 30 cm are retreated from the ceiling, the same distance is measured from the wall. A nail is driven into the resulting point or a self-tapping screw is screwed in.
2. A plumb line is lowered to the floor. At a height of 20 cm from the floor, another screw is screwed in.
3. The procedure is repeated on the other side.
4. A cord is pulled between the screws so that it does not come into contact with the surface. Several more screws are installed along the rope line.
5. A solution is applied to each screw, a rule is placed between the top and bottom, and the space under it is filled with the mixture. This is done with all elements.

That is, you get even tubercles of plaster that will play the role of beacons.

Applying plaster mortar

Application of the solution begins with a test: it is necessary to evaluate the absorbency of the surface. To do this, spray a little water on the wall. If water is quickly absorbed, then it is necessary to moisturize before using the plaster.

The prepared mixture is applied in the following order:

• Using a spatula, draw out the required amount of solution.
• The composition is thrown onto the areas that are located between the installed beacons. Each gap is completely filled.
• Next you need to use the rule. It is installed from below so that it rests on the edges of the beacons. Now you need to lift the tool up, making even swings to completely distribute the plaster. The procedure is repeated several times, if necessary, add a solution.
• After the coating has dried metal profiles are deleted. The resulting defects are covered up.

The corners can be a little tricky, but they can be formed just fine with a corner spatula. To obtain ideal evenness, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 60 to 100 mm is used. She is guided through given areas.

When installing door and window slopes take into account that they are performed with an inward expansion. This creates a better visual effect. To obtain obtuse angles, apply to the edge of the frame wooden slats or use a special beacon designed for slopes.

It is not always possible to get the desired result if you do not have sufficient skills. But the problems that arise can be solved by applying a finishing layer of putty, which will hide the existing imperfections. The main thing is that doing the work yourself is an opportunity to gain the necessary experience and save money.

VIDEO: do-it-yourself alignment of walls using beacons

In most cases, interior finishing work begins with leveling the walls, which makes it possible to obtain smooth vertical surfaces and corners for further painting or wallpapering. To do this, plasterboard sheets are installed along the entire plane of the wall or a layer of plaster is applied. To ensure accurate spatial orientation when leveling the plaster, special beacons are installed on the surface to be treated. These are vertical slats, the outer edge of which is in the same plane and determines the required thickness of the leveling layer at each point of the surface.

When preparing a solution for plastering walls along beacons, it is necessary to take into account special purpose premises, operational and technical characteristics, which include:

• temperature and humidity conditions;
• type of enclosing structures;
• material chosen for the finishing coating;
• material capabilities of the owners of the premises.

Dry heated rooms can be plastered with any type of mortar based on cement, lime and gypsum. Probability high humidity in bathrooms, toilets, showers and kitchens excludes the possibility of using gypsum mixtures.

Here, a composition of Portland cement, lime and sand is used to level the surface. There is also a restriction on the use of gypsum in unheated rooms. Such a solution cracks and falls off with periodic exposure. negative temperatures followed by thawing.

Selection of composition depending on the wall material

The most common materials for the construction of walls and partitions are:

• red clay and sand-lime brick;
• concrete;
• light porous blocks;
• wood.

Plastering of walls along beacons is carried out with any types of solutions, depending on the heat and humidity conditions of the room. Cement-based plaster adheres well to the surface without additional reinforcement. But for reliable fastening of inexpensive gypsum and lime compounds Before applying them, it is recommended to lay a polymer reinforcing mesh.

Leveling smooth concrete walls is practically no different from processing brick surfaces. However, the denser structure of the material requires preliminary impregnation with “Concrete Contact”, which is capable of strengthening the surface layer to a greater depth than the soil.

Walls made of relatively soft porous materials must be primed and reinforced before applying the plaster layer. A cement-sand composition with the addition of lime can provide reliable protection wall materials from moisture penetration.

For finishing wooden surfaces any type of plaster mortar and even simple clay are used, with a nailed-on reinforcing layer of polymers, metal or shingles applied.

Dependence on finishing material

Paintwork materials adhere well and look beautiful on light gypsum plaster. In this case, paint consumption will be minimal. The use of cement and lime mixtures requires preliminary impregnation with primer and painting 2-3 times.

Cement-sand mortars are best suited for gluing wallpaper, due to the good penetration of wallpaper glue into the surface. In this case, the diluted adhesive composition acts as a high-quality primer and provides reliable adhesion roll material with a wall.

Laying ceramic tiles is carried out only according to cement-sand plaster. The use of lime and gypsum mixtures is not allowed. The heavy weight of such a finish can compromise the integrity of the gypsum or lime layer.

Brief conclusions on the choice of material

The strongest and most stable layer of plaster for leveling walls along lighthouses with your own hands will provide cement-sand mortar. It is able to reliably hold any finishing material, resists moisture and temperature changes well, and the components used are affordable.

Cement mortar is highly durable and durable. The disadvantage is the laboriousness of the process and the long drying time of each applied layer.

Lime mixtures can only be used in dry, heated rooms. They are well fixed on stone surfaces and have good ductility, which facilitates the leveling process and eliminates the possibility of cracking after the mortar dries.

Vapor and air permeability help improve the indoor microclimate. The alkaline composition eliminates the possible appearance of fungus or mold. The main disadvantages are the very long time it takes to completely dry and gain the required strength, reaching 2-3 months. The cost of lime mixtures is higher than that of cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum mixtures for leveling walls with plaster along beacons, they are used when finishing living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, corridors and other dry rooms. The material is flexible and dries quickly, which reduces the time required to complete the work.

A large assortment of ready-made formulations is available for sale. for various purposes. The main disadvantages are high cost, moisture absorption and low mechanical strength.

Determination of material consumption

The consumption of the mixture when plastering walls with your own hands using beacons depends on the degree of curvature, vertical slope and the total area of ​​the surface being treated. Existing unevenness and blockage determine the average thickness of the plaster layer, which can be determined with sufficient accuracy after installing the outer beacons and cords stretched along them, forming the future plane of the plaster layer.

Pulling the cord.

At several points it is necessary to measure the distance from the cord to the wall. Add up all the obtained values ​​and divide by the number of measurement locations taken. This will determine the average thickness of the plaster. Multiplying the resulting number by the area of ​​the wall determines the required volume of solution.

The greater the number of measurements, the more accurate the result will be. In addition, horizontally stretched cords make it possible to determine the most protruding part of the wall and the place of the greatest thickness of the plaster layer.

After this, depending on the type of binder component, the required amount of material per cubic meter of solution is determined:

• cement M400 – 230-250 kg;
• slaked lime – 210-240 kg;
• gypsum – 850-950 kg.

The ratio of binder material and filler is determined by the type of work operation (spray, primer, covering) during plastering:

• cement-sand, lime-sand 1:2, 1:3 and 1:1.5, respectively;
• lime-gypsum-sand 1:1:2;
• gypsum-sand-clay 0.25:3:1;
• lime-clay-sand 0.2:1:3.

Ready-made dry plaster mixtures that are sold in stores building materials, are always accompanied by a consumption inscription written on the packaging. All you have to do is multiply given number on the thickness of the plaster layer in centimeters and the area of ​​the wall. After this, you can find out the required amount of material.

Required materials and tools

Before plastering the walls with beacons, you need to buy:

• Portland cement M400 in accordance with the calculations performed;
• river, washed or sifted sand;
• PVA glue to speed up setting and provide greater strength;
• fiberglass or polymer mesh for reinforcement;
• soil or “concrete contact” composition;
• T-shaped metal profiles 5-6 mm high;
• dowels and screws of various lengths.

The process of plastering walls is carried out in stages and at each stage a certain set of tools is required. So, to prepare the surface you will need:

• hammer and chisel;
• metal brush;
• container for primer and a wide brush.

When installing beacons you must have:

• hammer drill with a set of drills;
• hacksaw or grinder;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• plumb line and square;
• ruler at least 2 meters;
• bubble or laser level;
• durable cord.

To prepare and apply the solution to the wall surface you need to have:

• container for mixing cement-sand mixture;
• buckets;
• plaster ladle and falcon;
• trowel or trowel;
• grater and grater;
• rule 1.5-2.0 meters;
• spatulas.

Since some of the work is carried out at a height of more than 1.5 meters, it is necessary to make or purchase scaffolding from which work operations will be carried out. Using a stepladder is acceptable, but it is not as convenient and makes the job more difficult.

Preparatory work

Preparing the surface for plastering involves thoroughly cleaning it of old coatings, dirt and cement stains. Before leveling the wall along the beacons, it is necessary to complete all work on laying utilities, installing windows and doors. After this, the surface is primed with a deeply penetrating solution and a reinforcing mesh is fixed to it (if necessary).

Installation of beacons

From correct location Beacon slats depend on the quality and position of the plaster plane. The operating procedure is as follows:

1. At a distance of 100 mm from the upper left and right corners of the wall, self-tapping screws with a length of at least 100 mm are fixed in dowels so that they protrude 50-60 mm above the wall surface.
2. Near the head of each screw, a plumb line is suspended on a cord, missing the floor by 100-200 mm.
3. Down along the plumb lines, 2 more self-tapping screws are screwed in, to which the lower end of the cord is tied.
4. At a distance of 100 mm from the fixed cords, vertical lines are drawn along which the 2 outer beacons will be attached to the hardware.
5. The plane between the outer slats is divided into several equal vertical spans no more than 1500 mm wide. In this way, lines of intermediate beacons will be obtained.
6. 2-3 horizontal twines are tied to vertically stretched cords and, by moving them up and down, the most convex place on the wall is determined. After this, you can accurately determine the position of the required vertical plane, correctly place the beacons and accurately calculate the consumption of materials.

The beacon slats are fixed at the edges with self-tapping screws, and in the middle part they are fixed cement mortar. The use of gypsum for this purpose is not permitted.

Applying plaster mortar

Plastering a wall is carried out in 3 stages, which are called spray, primer and covering. They are applied in strict sequence and only after the previous layer has partially dried.

The thickness of the spray is 30-50 mm. The consistency of the material corresponds to regular sour cream. It is applied to the moistened surface from bottom to top and from left to right along each strip between the beacons separately. The prepared solution is thrown onto the surface with a trowel, taking it from the falcon, or smeared on the wall with a tool.

Using a layer of soil, rough leveling of the surface is performed. The thickness of the solution corresponds to a soft dough. The maximum thickness of one layer is 20 mm. If this is not enough, then the primer is applied in several passes after the previous layer begins to set.

As a result, the solution should slightly cover the surface of the fixed beacon profiles. To do this, excess plaster mixture is removed using a rule that is supported on adjacent beacons and pulled along them from bottom to top.

The last, third layer, covering, serves to final level and secure the surface. The density of the solution corresponds to kefir. It is simply poured onto the surface from a ladle and processed with a wet grater until a smooth surface is obtained without visible defects.

The correct technology for installing beacons simplifies plastering corners, since two vertical planes will ensure an even angle.

The final stage of work

On final stage All beacons are removed from the plaster layer, which, as a result of corrosion, can form dark spots on the walls. The resulting grooves are covered and leveled. After this, it is necessary to wash the surface with water.

To do this, simply pour it onto a section of the wall and rub it with a soft polyurethane trowel. This process corresponds to sanding the finished surface and facilitates final filling.

Video on the topic