home · Lighting · When to remove onions from the garden for storage. When to harvest onions When to pull out onions in a year

When to remove onions from the garden for storage. When to harvest onions When to pull out onions in a year

Collateral long-term storage onions and garlic is timely and proper cleaning. The timing of harvesting onions and garlic is determined by external signs - most often this is lodging and yellowing of leaves. It is better to harvest vegetables in dry weather, while harvesting onions and garlic has its own characteristics. It is better to harvest the onions on a sunny day so that they dry thoroughly. But when harvesting garlic, it is better to avoid bright sun and harvest the garlic crop in the morning or evening so that the garlic does not wilt under the scorching rays.

When to Harvest Onions

When determining the time for digging up bulbs, it should be remembered that the greatest intensity of their mass growth is observed in the first two decades of August. The weight also increases during ripening due to the outflow nutrients from leaves to bulb. However, you cannot delay harvesting, otherwise the seedlings will be large and have poor keeping quality.

An external sign of the time for harvesting the seedlings is the beginning of lodging of leaves. Approximately, onion harvesting is carried out in the first ten days of August, from the 1st to the 10th. If the bulb has formed, and the leaves are still green and do not lie down, then you can harvest them earlier - at the end of July.

Before storing, onion sets must be dried for 10-15 days at a temperature of 30-35°C. To do this, the onions can be left dug up in the area to ripen for 10-20 days. Beneficial effects on plants sun rays so that the upper juicy scales turn green.

Well-dried bulbs are manually separated (“crushed”) from the dried leaves, but they are not cut off.

When to Harvest Garlic

About maturity winter garlic judged by the state of the inflorescence, if it is not removed. The beginning of the opening of the inflorescence wrapper is a signal for harvesting. If there are no inflorescences, then they are guided by the massive yellowing and drying of the leaves.

Harvest the garlic better in the morning or in the evening so that it does not wilt in the intense heat. When harvesting, garlic must be protected from mechanical damage.

To dry, garlic plants are placed under a canopy or in another well-ventilated area. Leaves and arrows are removed only after drying. If garlic is preserved by weaving it into braids, the leaves are not trimmed. The bulbs are then sorted and braided for storage.

On average for different varieties Onions from the moment of planting to the time of harvesting take from 70 to 80 days. Therefore, if you planted onions in the traditional time frame for the Moscow region - mid - late May, then the time for harvesting the bulbs should be at the end of July - mid-August. In general, novice gardeners can be recommended to write down the date the onion set was planted in the ground and after 70 days check whether it is ready for harvesting or not

Advice! You can check this with the old one the folk way– dig up several bulbs and cut off their leaves to the base of the neck. Wait two or three days. If during this time the stem begins to emerge from the neck again, it means the onion is not yet ripe. Let it sit in the ground for another week or two. If you don’t notice any changes, you can safely dig it up.

When to remove onions from the garden for storage in 2018

For bulb ripening big influence influenced by weather conditions: temperature and precipitation. If the summer was quite warm and dry, or even hot, then the bulbs are able to ripen much faster than expected. If there was a lot of rain in the first summer months, and the temperature could be called cool rather than hot, then by August the onions may not be ready for harvesting.

If the dates that you have determined are already approaching, and its leaves still continue to turn green, the neck continues to remain juicy and thick, and the bulbs have imperceptibly colored scales, then you can try to speed up the ripening process in various folk ways.

When to harvest onions in the Moscow region

It is worth considering that you cannot water the onions before harvesting; watering stops at least two weeks before harvesting, otherwise the roots will begin to rot, which will completely destroy the crop. If we talk about the Moscow region, then the vegetable should be removed from the beds at the very end of July or at most in the first days of August.

If you do not harvest the onion harvest in the Moscow region at this time, there is a high probability that the onion heads in the soil will begin to rot due to frequent rains and increased moisture in the soil. The gardener can wait a little while harvesting onion vegetables, but this can only be done if weather forecasters do not promise many rainy days for the last month of summer. Only in dry weather will vegetables retain their taste qualities, if rain and cold are predicted for August, it is worth starting cleaning in the last days of July.

Most often, onions ripen seventy or eighty days after planting, but the timing of onion yellowing will depend on the variety of vegetable chosen. Well, in order to accurately calculate at what period it is worth harvesting onions, it is enough to remember the date the vegetable was planted in the ground, and then add about seventy-five days to this date, thus obtaining the exact harvest date, it can vary from seventy to eighty days.

When to harvest onions in the Moscow region in 2018 according to the lunar calendar

Most onion varieties ripen on average in 70-80 days, but these figures are approximate, because a lot depends on the weather. It is known that the drier and warmer the summer, the faster the onions ripen and vice versa. In this case, the first weeks after planting the crop are especially important, because the main growth of plants and the increase in feathers occurs precisely in the first month, and after the formation of the above-ground part, the vegetables themselves begin to grow rapidly. From this we can conclude that the harvest in each region occurs at its own time, so there is no need to look for exact dates.

Determining when it’s time to harvest onions is quite simple: the feathers of the vegetables lie on the ground and half dry out and turn yellow. You can conduct an experiment and accurately determine whether the crop is ready for “wintering”; to do this, just remove a couple of vegetables from the ground, cut off their feathers at the very neck and wait a couple of days; if the plants do not begin to grow new feathers, then you can safely harvest .

Now regarding the lunar calendar. In 2018, the most favorable times for harvesting onions are considered. It is recommended to harvest onions in 2018 on August 1-3, 8, 11-14, 16, 20, 29 and 30. Unfavorable period is August 4-7.

How to properly harvest onions in summer

Proper harvesting of onions ensures proper storage. First, the bulbs are dug up, and then very carefully removed from the soil by hand. Under no circumstances should you pull out the bulbs without digging. The bulbs are rubbed with your hands to clear them of soil. Then they are laid out in one row for drying: it should lie for at least a day. Don't forget to turn the bulbs over from time to time.

The lunar calendar shows better days For:

INTERESTING FACTS

---

By lunar calendar The exact time periods are determined when it is better to harvest onions in 2018. The calculations take into account the phases of the moon, which have the most beneficial effect on the progress of work in the garden. Detailed recommendations will help you grow and harvest a crop that will be well stored without losing all its beneficial qualities. When harvesting, it is necessary to take into account not only the calendar date, but also weather conditions. There are also external signs definitions of maturity.

There are three main ways to determine the full degree of maturity of onions:

  1. You can recognize the ripeness of a vegetable by external signs by studying the condition of the tops and onions.
  2. The mathematical method will help when the variety and timing of its ripening are precisely known.
  3. Will tell you the exact date carrying out any work in the garden lunar calendar.

In any of these cases, the weather plays a decisive role. If the days are cold and rainy, the harvest may be delayed significantly.

External signs of maturity

You can tell that onions are ripe by the following external signs:

  • the tops begin to turn yellow, dry out and fall on the bed;
  • new feathers do not appear;
  • the neck of the onion becomes thinner and dries out;
  • The upper scales of the bulb are easily removed and rustle.

A ripe onion tastes juicy, with well-formed plates that emit a pleasant, characteristic aroma.

Mathematical method

For determining exact number For cleaning purposes, you can use the date obtained by simple mathematical calculation.

The general ripening period for onions ranges from 68 to 82 days. The large discrepancy in numbers depends on the variety chosen. Early varieties need less time to form the fruit than late varieties.

Understanding when to remove onions from the garden for storage is quite simple; just solve a simple example. By landing date vegetable crop add the number of days required for the variety to ripen. The amount received is considered best time for collecting onions.

If the days are hot and dry, then cleaning work is carried out earlier, taking into account the condition vegetable beds. In rainy, cool summers, the ripening of root crops is delayed, and the result mathematical example won't be useful.

When to remove onions from the garden?

Once all the main signs of onion ripening have been noticed, you should choose a sunny, dry day. According to the weather forecast, there should be no rain in the coming days. This will allow the harvested crop to dry under the sun.

Onion harvesting according to the lunar calendar begins in the second half of July and continues until mid-August. If the summer is rainy, then you need to choose a day without precipitation. Harvest put in a well-ventilated area for further work.

Moon calendar

Experienced gardeners have noticed that onions harvested during the waning moon are best stored. Favorable days According to the 2018 lunar calendar, the following are considered:

  • in July it is better to start harvesting on the 1st-3rd, 6th, 28th-29th;
  • in August, suitable for work from 1-7, 10, 26, 29-31;
  • Late varieties of onions can also be harvested in September; lucky days will be 1-4, 7-8 and 26.

You can harvest spicy vegetables during the new moon. At this time, the plant directs all its energy to the development of the underground part. The bulbs are filled with vitamins and juice. On new moon days, it is not recommended to carry out weeding of beds and activities aimed at combating diseases and pests.

Country life hack

Adviсe experienced summer residents may also be useful at the harvesting stage. When collecting onions, many advise relying on the dates indicated in the lunar calendar, since the phases of the moon largely determine the growth rate and quality of development of all plants:

  • During the phase when the Moon is waxing, the plant quickly gains strength and grows. Biological processes actively flow in the upper part. All juices from the bottom of the plant rush upward. At this time, watering is beneficial. The onion cannot be removed.
  • During the waning moon phase, the movement of sap is directed to the underground part of the plant. On the waning moon, it is better to harvest the crops and apply fertilizing. Root vegetables will be tasty and healthy.

During the new moon, it is allowed to weed the soil from weeds, loosen and moderately water vegetable beds.

How to properly dig onions from the beds

As soon as the timing of onion harvesting has been determined, preparations begin. Three weeks before the calculated date, stop watering and fertilizing. Water leads to the appearance of new roots and rotting of root crops.


The cleaning process itself must be carried out following certain rules:

  • the day should be sunny and dry (it is advisable to study the weather forecast and choose a time when no rain is expected for 12 days);
  • if the soil is soft, then you can pull out the bulbs by hand, but it is best to use a pitchfork or shovel;
  • Use a pitchfork to carefully dig up the area around the head, and then pull it out with your hands;
  • You need to shake off the adhering dirt from the bulbs (do this carefully so as not to cause damage);
  • The onion should be left to dry together with the tops (during the drying process, the tops will saturate the onion with nutrients);
  • the dug crop is distributed in one layer on flat surface and stir periodically.

Bulb

It is easy to determine when it is best to harvest ripe onions. Most of the tops in the garden turn yellow and lie to the ground. Favorable days for harvesting ripe onions in August 2018 will be after the 8th.


Leek

The shelf life of leeks depends on the variety chosen. Early varieties Leeks ripen in 100 days, they are unsuitable for winter storage, and they are eaten immediately after collection. It takes 190 days for late varieties of leek to ripen. It is this that is stored for 6-7 months.

Bow on winter storage They begin to dig in mid-October, before the onset of the first frost. If the bow is intended to be used in autumn period, then you can dig it up already in the last days of August. In conditions rainy summer Onion harvesting should begin earlier to avoid rotting.


To harvest leeks, choose a moderately windy, dry day. Using a fork, dig up the false onion and shake off any adhering dirt from it. It is best to store well-dried stems in sand.

Sevok

Sevok is considered an important planting material, so the future harvest depends on its quality. The sowing is obtained after planting nigella seeds. It is important to determine the time for digging up the bulbs and follow the collection rules.

They begin to dig in the first half of August. By this time, the tops and neck of the bulb will begin to dry out and turn yellow, the scales are easily separated, shiny and rustling. There is no need to wait until all the yellowed feathers fall off, otherwise new roots will grow. Keeping quality deteriorates planting material, and the likelihood of arrows forming in the new crop increases.

They dig the seedlings in dry weather using a pitchfork, leaving the crop to dry until the evening. Dirt from the surface must be removed manually; do not hit the heads against each other. If the weather is rainy and cold, they begin to dig the onions out of the ground earlier. This will help reduce the risk of disease and rotting.

shallot

Harvesting of shallots begins after the leaves dry out, coincides this sign from mid-August. If you take into account the phases of the lunar calendar, it is better to remove onions during the full moon. The harvest collected these days is stored for a long time and contains many nutrients.

Watering is stopped 15 days before harvest. Choose a sunny, dry day for cleaning. Dig out the shallots using a fork, leaving the feather behind. You need to dry it for two weeks. Then the dry ends are cut off, and the green part is braided or collected into a bun.


How to speed up the ripening process

Experienced gardeners do not fully rely on external signs that indicate the ripeness of the head. It happens that the bulb is ready to be dug up, but the feathers are still straight and green. To prevent the crop from falling into the rainy season, it is necessary to carry out a procedure that will speed up ripening:

  • Pulling up the roots helps. The bulb is slightly pulled out of the ground. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the entire root system.
  • 20 days before the expected harvest, watering is stopped. This will allow all the beneficial substances to accumulate in the bulb.
  • The last time to apply fertilizer is 4 weeks before harvest.
  • Exposing the head by pushing back the soil allows for better penetration of oxygen, light and heat to the underground part of the plant.

Feathers should not be trimmed to speed up maturation. This only leads to rotting of the crop.


Stop watering

Dry soil promotes better ripening of bulbs:

  • So that the bulbs do not spoil and are well stored for a long time, during their formation, watering is reduced.
  • Onions should be harvested before the period of prolonged rains.
  • As soon as the process of drying and yellowing of the feathers begins, watering is stopped altogether.
  • If it rains at this time, you can cover the beds with film.

As a result, they stop watering the onions a month before harvest.

Undermining the roots

To harvest a ripe onion harvest, many summer residents carry out the procedure of undermining the roots. As a result of the procedure, the plant absorbs less water and nutrients from the soil.

The bulb is carefully pulled out of the ground (you can dig it up with a pitchfork), slightly undermining the roots. The procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the bulb.

Exposure of bulbs

Baring the bulbs is especially useful for those who have planted the vegetable too deeply. Gently removed by hand or with a spatula upper layer from the bulb.


The procedure promotes better ventilation and warming of the underground part of the plant. As a result, ripening occurs earlier.

Some gardeners cut the roots of the bulb by 5-6 cm, leaving the tops untouched. Green tops nourish the bulb throughout the drying period and accelerate its ripening.

How to prepare onions for storage

After the entire crop has been dug up, it is left to dry and disinfect under the sun's rays. Dirt is shaken off the bulbs; the tops are not cut off. At night, the crop is covered with film or put indoors so that dew or rain does not wet the vegetable.


If the weather is dry and windy, then the crop is left in the garden after harvesting. In the garden, the harvest will be completely dry in 12-14 days. Then they begin to cut off the dried tops, leaving a top of about 5.5 cm. Some housewives store onions in braids or bundles, in this case only the ends of the tops are trimmed.

Large, strong, undamaged bulbs are selected for storage. The harvest selected for storage is placed in carton boxes, wicker baskets, fabric bags.

Onions are demanding on soil fertility. It should be neutral or slightly alkaline, the soil should be filled with rotted (but not fresh!) manure, and mineral fertilizers should be added. You cannot grow onions in the same place year after year. Return the bow to old place no earlier than in 3-4 years. Then you can avoid diseases and damage by pests.

The best predecessors. It is not advisable to place onions after potatoes and cabbage. The best predecessors are pumpkin vegetables - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, as well as vegetable peas, tomatoes, and green ones.

Preparing the soil for onions in the fall.

It is better to prepare the soil in the fall - immediately after harvesting the previous crop. Before digging, add rotted manure or compost aged for a year up to 5-7 kg per 1 sq. m. m, phosphorus and potassium mineral fertilizers at the rate of 15-20 g each per 1 sq. m.

Preparing seeds for sowing. Onion seeds in field conditions have low germination; before sowing, they must be soaked for 18-24 hours in running water or changed water 2-3 times room temperature. After this procedure, seedlings appear on the 7-8th day. Dry seeds germinate in about 20 days.

Sowing dates for onions.

Sowing is best done in early dates as soon as soil conditions allow. When sown early, seedlings use the moisture reserve more efficiently and grow faster. Plants will take full advantage of the long day's light and grow better. high yield. Sow the seeds in rows, the distance between them is 15-20 cm, the sowing depth is 2-3 cm, the seed consumption is 7-8 g per 1 sq. m. The surface is lightly rolled with a light roller.

The seedlings must have constant moisture. Therefore, if the weather is dry, the crops are systematically watered at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. m and after that they must be loosened to a depth of 4-5 cm. Weeds should not be allowed. They take away moisture, food and light from the onion. 3-4 weeks before harvesting the onions, stop watering.

Caring for crops.

Consists of systematic watering, loosening and feeding twice (the first - 2 weeks after germination with nitrophoska in a dose of 12-15 g per 10 liters of water, the second - a week after the first - 40-50 g of nitrophoska or 200-300 g of ash per 1 sq. . m). The most important thing when growing bulbs from seeds is thinning, since dense placement of plants accelerates the formation of the bulb, as a result, few leaves develop and the plant quickly dries out.

Harvesting onions.

A sign of onion readiness is the massive lodging of leaves, when the bulbs have formed and the outer scales have acquired a color characteristic of the variety. Dried onions are trimmed, leaving a thin dry neck 3-5 cm long. Dried ripe onions will be stored well in winter.

Without cutting the leaves, you can use twine to weave beautiful onion braids. They are stored under the same conditions in a dry room with an air temperature of about 0-1 C.

Onions can be grown from seeds in one season. It begins in March - at the very beginning of the month, onion seeds are sown in small boxes. After a month, you can already plant it in the garden - certainly in a sunny place. The soil should be light and fertile.

Before planting, you must make a full deposit. mineral fertilizer. Onion seedlings are planted to a depth of about 10 cm. And after two weeks the onions stand in ranks - like soldiers in formation.

Mullein, bird droppings, and rotted compost are used for fertilizer. But everything is exclusively in liquid form. They spend it twice more per season foliar feeding with the drug Rastvorin.

  • And now main secret. When the onion grows to 10-15 cm, it needs to be... salted. Dissolve 100 g of salt in a bucket of water and pour it over onion beds. This must be done three times per season with an interval of 10 days.

Tested in practice: a salty shower increases yield by about a quarter, onions become much tastier, and are also less affected by pests. To prevent peronosporosis, copper-containing preparations are used. They must also be used to treat the crops if downy mildew has begun. In July, I rake the soil away from the bulbs - this way they ripen better.

The harvest should be harvested no later than August 10. Usually by this time the feather has already fallen down, and the bulbs acquire a color characteristic of the variety.

Growing onions in two years (seed crop)

The essence of the method is that in the first year small bulbs with a diameter of 1-3 cm, weighing 1-4 g, called sets, are grown from seeds. This method is widely used in the Non-Black Earth zone and in the Central Black Earth region due to the fact that with this method the bulbs ripen earlier. Ripening is accelerated by 30-45 days compared to sowing seeds in a permanent place.

To grow onion sets, prepare the soil and fertilize it in the same way as when growing onions from seeds in one year.

To obtain well-ripened sets, sowing is carried out with greater thickening, sowing 70-100 g of seeds per 10 square meters. m. Sowing scheme with two-line (50+20) or five-line tape (20+20+20+20+60 cm).

During the period of growing onion sets, the seedlings are weeded 2-3 times, and 4 loosenings are carried out between the rows. Thinning of seedlings is not carried out.

As the bulbs mature, the leaves die off. Harvesting begins in July. Onion sets are dug up, selected by hand, dried for 5-7 days open place, then finally dried under canopies or in a dry room at 30-35 "C. Next, the sets are sorted into small ones with a diameter of up to 1 cm, which in practice vegetable growers call "oatmeal". It is difficult to preserve such bulbs until spring - they dry out if kept in room conditions. It is best to plant “oatmeal” before winter. This is done in late October - early November so that the bulbs can take root before the onset of frost, but do not germinate.

Seedling method of growing onions

Sweet, mildly pungent, low-lying varieties are grown by seedling method: Krasnodar G-35, Kaba, Stimul, Yalta. Seedlings begin to be grown in early March for 60 days. IN open ground it is planted in early May in grooves cut at a distance of 20 cm and a depth of 5-7 cm. Humus is added to the grooves in a layer of 1-1.5 cm, watered abundantly and the seedlings are laid out at a distance of 5-7 cm. After laying out, the soil is pressed. You can plant onion seedlings in a bunch of 4-5 pieces. in the nest and increase the distance between nests to 20 cm. This makes care easier and the onion yield increases. Caring for onion seedlings is the same as with other methods of growing onions.

Growing green onions

Multi-germ varieties are used to produce greens. Green onions can be obtained not only in the garden, but also in greenhouses, and in the room in pots and boxes. As planting material, they mainly use selections and sowings of a large fraction of multi-primordial varieties: Krasnodar G-35, Yurzhek, Stimul. To do this, the onions are planted tightly, deepened to the middle of the bulb, and watered. Growing leafy greens from bulbs requires a lot of light, so it fails during the darkest months (December, January). However, with improved lighting in February-March, 1.2-1.5 kg of green onions can be obtained from 1 kg of onions.

Onions per leaf can be grown from perennial onions, why in early spring cover the bed with onions transparent film. The air and soil under the film warm up. This stimulates green growth. This is how you can grow shallots and onions.

Onion sets are planted in early spring. This vegetable is well adapted to the cold. The smallest bulb sets are planted at the end of April, and larger bulbs are planted at the beginning of May . Onions sprout well and grow at a temperature of 10-12 degrees. The bulbs should be planted at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from each other. There should be a distance of at least 20-25 centimeters between the rows. Optimal depth- 3-4 centimeters.

Planting shallots according to Lunnoy sowing calendar 2016
Shallots are grown from seeds or bulbs: the seeds are sown in the ground in the fall, the bulbs in the spring.
IN middle lane and in the northern regions of Russia, bulbs are planted in the spring at the end of April - early May. In the southern regions, bulbs are usually planted in the fall, at the end of October. Planting depth - 4-6 cm.

Caring for shallot plantings is standard: watering, weeding. It can grow in one place for up to 5 years.

Favorable days for planting and caring for onions according to the 2016 lunar sowing calendar:
planting onions May 19–20; June 15–19; July 13–16; August 10–13; still possible on April 25–26, May 23; July 3, 31; August 1, 27–28;
forcing onions into feathers January 14–27; February 1, 2, 5–6, 13–14, 22–24; 11–13, 24 March; April 8–9;
watering on any day except February 15–16, 25–26; 14–15, 23 and 24, with caution – March 9; April 10–11 and 19–21, May 1–2, 7–8, 16–18, 29–30; June 4–5, 13–14, 25–26; July 1–2, 22–23, 28–29; August 6–8, 18–19, 25–26.
application of complex fertilizing February 4, 5–7, 8–10, 14, 22–24; March 1–4, 6, 28–31; April 1, 6, 24–30; May 3–5, 22–26, 31; June 4–5, 23–24, 27–28; July 3–4, 20–21; August 1, 2, 4, 21–31.
Fertilizing carried out will have a particularly positive effect June 29–30; July 26–27; August 23–24; feeding with dry fertilizer February 15–16, 25–26; March 14–15; April 10–11; May 7–8; July 1–2, 28–30; August 25–26.

Onions are a cold-resistant plant: onion seeds can germinate at temperatures of +1...+2 °C, but seedlings appear most quickly at +18...+20 °C. Young onion plants can withstand frosts down to –6 °C. Optimum temperature +20…+25 °C.

In the Moscow region and throughout central Russia Onion sets are planted in open ground from April 25 to May 5. After planting, the onions are watered and covered with film or lutrasil. When planting at an earlier date, the onion may shoot. To make onions germinate and take root faster, they can be soaked in solutions of growth stimulants. At first onion It grows slowly: up to a month passes before the emergence of seedlings in unfavorable conditions, and 2 weeks in favorable conditions.

Landing by folk calendar: Onions begin to be planted in open ground when the leaves on the bird cherry tree begin to unfurl.


Their number reaches a maximum when the leaves begin to lie down and the influx of assimilates stops. The synthesis process is completed, the bulb comes to a state of rest along with the accumulated nutrients. Then you should start digging.

An important sign that it is time to harvest the onion is the softening of the false stem and its loss of elasticity. This indicates that the plant has stopped growing and the bulb is fully formed. The bulb color characteristic of the variety appears. He also talks about the appropriate time for cleaning.

ON THE PICTURE: Lodging of onion leaves indicates full ripening.

What is the danger of untimely harvesting of onions?

Harvesting onions too early or too late can lead to problems with further storage.

If dig onions too early , available:

  • unformed covering scales;
  • excessively thick neck;
  • penetration of harmful microorganisms into the bulb;
  • rapid deterioration during storage.

Late cleaning onion upsets the owner:

  • cracking and falling of the dried scaly layer;
  • re-sprouting of roots;
  • low resistance against diseases;
  • loss of most of the harvest.

ON THE PICTURE: An extra few days in the garden in damp, cool weather will lead to bulb rot later on. The photo shows a full picture of the rotting of the bulb, but it usually begins from the neck - the most vulnerable place of the bulb.

Timing for onion harvesting in Russian regions

The timing of harvesting onions depends on the specific region. For central Russia, Siberia and the Urals they are different, within a few weeks from July 25 to August 15.

In the Moscow region, such work is usually done between the last days of July and August 10. The time allotted for harvesting onions is also affected by the weather. We'll talk about this below.

Onion harvesting in the Urals

In the Urals, onions are traditionally harvested at the same time as in central Russia. But depending on the latitude, the climate “corrects” the timing. Therefore, do not forget to monitor local weather forecasts: in regions north of the Chelyabinsk region, it is advisable to dig up onions by the beginning of August.

If persistent hot weather is expected in mid-August, you can use it for drying and start digging later. But anyway, Onion harvesting in the Urals will be completed by August 20.

Onion harvest in Siberia and the North-West

Bulb harvest time Leningrad region coincides with the timing of onion harvesting in Siberia. This is mid-August, before the onset of heavy rains. The time for onion harvesting in the area near Chemal is earlier than in the northern regions.

The period for harvesting onions in the Urals, Siberia or Moscow region depends not only on climatic conditions. The growing season of a particular variety and soil characteristics are also important: clay soils retain moisture longer.

Many gardeners tend to dig onions according to the lunar calendar, but we recommend focusing on the phenophase calendar. It shows what a culture looks like in a certain period of time. The phenological calendar helps to plan agricultural work based on the condition of the plant.

Onion harvesting technology

Important to remember basic rule: The timing of harvesting onion sets is the earliest, and leeks are dug out of the bed last. To be sure that it’s time to dig onions, focus on following signs:

✔ from 60% to 80% of plants were killed;

✔ the mass of lying leaves is at least 15-23% of the plant mass;

✔ the lower leaves have turned yellow;

✔ from 12% to 18% of roots die;

✔ the neck dries out;

✔ the false stem softens.

The harvest must be completed within 10 days. During this time, the massive lodging of leaves will become complete.

If you allow complete lodging by the time of harvesting, the taste of the bulbs will deteriorate. This is especially noticeable when young roots appear.

Overripe bulbs will absorb excess moisture from the soil in rainy weather, and keeping quality will deteriorate significantly. Therefore, you should not drag onions from the garden for too long.

How to properly remove sets

After noticeable lodging of the yellowed feather, the set is pulled out and left on drying for 20 days. If you have to harvest onions in wet weather, you will need a drying shed. The duration of drying onions under a canopy is approximately the same as in the open air.

ON THE PICTURE: Rains can ruin even the richest harvest, so it is best to dry onions under a waterproof canopy.

The sets are sorted after the tops are completely dry and removed.

The neck of the bulbs should thin out and dry out, becoming covered with thin scales. Only in this form will the bulbs last all winter without being affected by neck rot.

The seedlings are sorted and sorted by size, depending on future plantings planned. For cold storage optimal temperature ranges from –1°С to –3°С. Warm storage of the sets provides temperature regime+18-25°C.

Onions need to be dug up, shaken well and dried for one to two weeks. It is best to dry freshly dug onions in a place with access to sunlight and good ventilation.

ON THE PICTURE: You can dry the onions directly on the harvested bed. The main thing is that the weather is warm, dry.


ON THE PICTURE: If the soil is not dry enough after systematic rains, you can dry the onions “by weight” by spreading them on a lattice surface.

ON THE PICTURE: You can even hang the onions to dry on the fence, giving your area a little rustic flavor.

An oven is also suitable for drying onions, but at temperatures above +50°C and a time longer than eight hours, the onions can dry out and disappear.

The ripening of onions is accelerated if, 3-4 weeks before harvesting, the roots under the bottom of the bulbs are cut by 5-6 cm. For the same purpose, you can lightly rake the soil. But mowing or trampling the leaves is not recommended: this opens up access to the bulbs for many harmful microorganisms.

Before drying, onion stems are cut to 5 cm in length. Bulbs with even slight damage or very juicy necks should not be sent for storage. It is better to eat them immediately.

Competent collection

Typically, leeks are dug up a few days before frost, in most regions of Russia - at the end of October. Does the weather forecast promise -5°C? It's time to think about drying the crop after harvesting.

ON THE PICTURE: Leeks are harvested before the leaves turn yellow, otherwise the commercial quality of the crop deteriorates.

Leeks will keep at -7°C, so don't panic if you didn't have time to dig them up the day before frost.

Drying leeks after harvesting can sometimes be problematic if the soil was damp at the time of harvest. In this case, an oven is very necessary. Preheat it to +50°C, then turn it off, put in the leek and let it dry for eight hours.

If improperly processed after digging, leeks are highly susceptible to rot, mainly neck rot. Heating in the oven, as in the case of onions, literally saves the harvest.

Important nuances of drying and storing bulbs

The bulbs are considered dried when the moisture content of the scaly coating is 14–15%. The main thing is that when drying, the onion scales do not crack, otherwise the vegetable becomes vulnerable to bacteria.

Containers for storing onions are filled with ash, sawdust or salt. According to the old tradition, the bulbs are hung from the ceiling in worn stockings or net bags. Aesthetes prefer to weave beautiful “braids” from dry stems to secure onion bunches. Onion compositions decorate the interior in country style.

ON THE PICTURE: Onion braids - beauty and convenience “in one bottle”.

Storing onions and garlic is easier than it seems, if you remember the basic rules. Learn everything about and from individual articles, and may the harvest successfully survive the winter!