Connecting electricity to the st. How to connect three phases to a private house? Three phases in the garden plot

The horticulture board has the authority to make decisions on connection three-phase meters, if there is a need (for example, a house is being built or for other reasons). To obtain permission to install a three-phase meter, a gardener must submit an application to the gardening board, in which he must indicate for what purposes he needs a three-phase meter, how much power he asks to allocate to the house. Gardening, if possible, satisfies the gardener's request or refuses if it is impossible to satisfy it. It is possible that previously the board allowed gardeners to connect three phases to the house during the construction of the house, but now such a need has disappeared. The electrician, together with the person responsible for electrical equipment, must carry out an inspection and draw up a report indicating the presence of three-phase meters in houses and their necessity. The gardener is required to provide inspectors with permission to connect three phases to the house and install three-phase meters. If the gardener's application to connect three phases to the house is satisfied, the horticulture board must issue technical specifications.

The gardener, based on technical specifications, carries out the project and its approval at his own expense. After execution installation work Electricity connection to the house is made only after commissioning of work in accordance with the project, obtaining permission to switch on from state supervision, instructing the gardener, as well as checking resistance, grounding - i.e. all the necessary parameters provided for by regulatory documents.

Depending on the power of the transformer and the power allocated to the gardening, the general meeting (meeting of authorized) members of the gardening may decide to allocate the maximum possible power to the house, taking into account the coefficient of non-simultaneous electricity consumption by gardeners. Some gardeners to limit power consumption take on general meeting installation solution safety device A-16.

G. Gepalova, lawyer,
Chairman of the Gardeners Center
Vasileostrovsky district
St. Petersburg

To view photographs posted on the site in an enlarged size, you need to click on their reduced copies.

We all learned a little bit
Something and somehow...

A.S. Pushkin

This page is a continuation of a large topic "Electricity and power supply in SNT", see the beginning on the website page: . However, this page is slightly different from the previous ones in that the identified issue will be considered comprehensively without resorting to regulatory legal acts. They are simply out of place here. Fight with windmills and you don’t need to prove anything to anyone on this page. Here are practical solutions to your problems or tips for making appropriate decisions.

All information is taken from the physics course school curriculum. But no one is going to teach anyone. The theory serves only as a support for subsequent practical actions and calculations for your garden house or a house. Let us add that this material is intended for an inquisitive mind and hands that grow from where it is needed. With the help of simple calculations, you can install electrical wiring in your house yourself and install all electrical appliances without the help of an electrician, although a professional is not excluded, but individual elements future wiring even needs to be agreed upon with a specialist.

We very often seek the help of specialists to resolve any issues. This is how, unfortunately or fortunately, our whole life is structured. We are already arriving ready apartment and we absolutely don’t think about the question: who built the house and how, how were communications carried out? We don’t care about this as long as malfunctions don’t force us to think about and solve emerging problems with electrical wiring, spending some effort, time and money.

The purpose of this page is to free you from the very expensive, time-consuming and, most importantly, incomprehensible for the majority of people, the issue of organizing power supply for your residential building, house on a garden plot, or summer cottage.

Everything you read further is practice using theory. I apologize to professional electricians, designers, if the designations and diagrams given on the page do not meet the standards of such documents. My goal was to make the text and diagrams understandable for people, and not for professionals. Naturally, the material is not a textbook. But it is on this basis that my house and the houses of many other neighbors in SNT were built. And we haven't had any problems with power supply yet.

Organization of power supply for a garden, country house or garden house

So, let's get started with the topic. You have already bought or have had a garden plot for a long time. A house has been built on the site, or you are just about to do it. One fine day you came up with the idea of ​​electrifying it. Amazing! But you don’t know which way to approach this. This means you stupidly turn to specialists who, for your blood and sweat earned money, are ready to solve any issue, any whim. They will solve it. And... they will leave. And, if anything happens, you will have to run to them again. And these are again expenses on your part. This happens for one reason - you are not an electrician, you do not understand the terminology and installation practices; the fact that they figured out how it all works in the house, how to fix something that suddenly stopped working. There's really nothing complicated about it electrical system individual house No. And you will see this now. If you suddenly liked the material, but have questions, then come to or write through the “Contacts” page, I will try to explain the difficulties that have arisen..

Let's start with the main question that worries the gardener: "What electric power do you need for my home?" To find out for sure you need to use the formula:

P = I U, where

P- power in watts (1000 W = 1 kW);
I- force electric current in amperes;
U- mains voltage in volts.

Let's clarify the formula for those who have forgotten physics. Power" P"We need it in order to choose the right machine protective shutdown (circuit breaker, residual current device, circuit breaker , "heater"), which will be installed immediately after the consumption meter electricity. If you install a weak machine that is not designed for the electrical load in your home, you will be tortured by running to the pole and turning on this same machine. If you decide to install a machine that is too powerful, then if it overheats electrical wiring, if there is a malfunction of any electrical appliance, it will not turn off, which can lead to a short circuit and an inevitable fire. This means you need to install a machine that will not turn off and at the same time protect your home from fire. And besides, you will need to write an application to the board and ask for allocation electrical power .

Let's return to the formula. To calculate the final power you need to look at the voltage " U"in your network. This can be easily measured using a cheap tester. It should be 220 - 230 volts. This is normal. But in the Russian outback, rural areas The tension often fluctuates. And during the evening load it drops to 120 - 160 volts. An ordinary incandescent light bulb barely burns. The electric pump does not turn on, energy-saving light bulbs do not light up, the microwave oven does not work, etc. What should I do?

There is an exit. You need to purchase an automatic Voltage regulator. A device that, without your participation, will turn 120 volts at the input into 220 volts at the output. And you immediately next question: "How to determine the electrical power of a stabilizer so as not to overpay for additional unnecessary power?" You most likely won't find the answer in the store. The seller will ask what you want, ask a bunch of other questions and, if you are not ready to answer, he will offer a model. But it is not a fact that this is exactly what is needed. Therefore, while in the store, you should already know exactly why you came and what power you need.

Now let's figure out the current strength" I". Each electrical appliance is marked electric power in watts or current consumption in amperes. For example, automatic washing machine usually consumes 16 A, and Electric kettle 2000 Watt or 2 kW. There is no need to run to the drawer where you keep all the instructions for your equipment. Use the table below, check the necessary boxes and get a ready-made calculated result (for accurate calculations, still look at your instructions and insert the required values ​​into the table):

For the right choice models voltage stabilizer and determining the total electrical power for garden house it is necessary to determine the sum of the capacities of all your electrical appliances that simultaneously need to be supplied with electricity (W).
The table shows average power values ​​for the most commonly used household appliances and electrical appliances.

Did you count? Great! Let's move on to the most interesting thing on this page. According to the provisions of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 861 dated December 27, 2004 “On approval... Rules for technological connection of consumer power receiving devices electrical energy, electrical energy production facilities, as well as electrical grid facilities owned by network organizations and other persons to electrical networks" to an individual, that is, a gardener, can and should stand out electric power up to 15 kW, inclusive. Great! But this is by law. But in practice, unfortunately, this is not the case. And pay attention to the preposition " before" - this does not mean 15 kW.

If your SNT is allocated only 45 kW of electrical power for all 66 garden plots, including residential buildings and houses, then, naturally, one gardener will receive the same 15 kW without increasing the power at the input SNT can not. And the power grid organization, when contacted, responds that there is a program, it is included in the plans, wait. How long to wait, a year, two,... 10? Often someone doesn’t wait. This is a very painful issue for SNT, and we will discuss it on another page: "". Now you need to make a decision about your beloved home.

Let's assume that your partnership has a normal, sensible electrician and the same board, then you will never have a problem with electricity supply Your house. But it also happens the other way around. For example, in our SNT, when I was going to build a residential building, without delving into the issues of capacity, formulas and other bells and whistles, the chairman told me, by the way, a competent guy in electricity matters: “That’s enough for you.” circuit breaker 6A or 10A. We don't have enough capacity. No more." ...?!

We substitute the values ​​of 10A and 220V into the formula: 10A x 220V. At the output we get the maximum: = 2.2 kW. Really, the chairman, who himself permanently resides in SNT, also has a 10A residual current circuit breaker. I had to get to the bottom of it. The automatic washing machine alone requires 2.5 kW of power. And he probably also has a refrigerator, TV, boiler, water pump, lighting, i.e. the minimum that you cannot do without in a residential building. Of course, he has a more powerful automatic machine, otherwise it’s impossible to live in the house. You don't even have to check. I didn't check it. But this issue, the issue of electrical power, was ultimately resolved in my favor. The builders suggested a solution. And, in theory, the owner of the house himself should know the way out.

One inquisitive visitor to the site recommended doing this simply and tastefully: chip in and buy a more powerful transformer so that there is enough for everyone. And the problem will be solved. No one will need to limit electrical power. Everyone is happy. Everything would really be fine, but now it’s sad. Many SNT simply cannot buy an expensive transformer. Others cannot connect it anywhere, because... No high voltage line next to SNT. Still others, through the low-voltage power line of the power supply organization, simply cannot receive more power than what has already been allocated: there is no capacity at the substation in the power network organization. It only follows that gardeners must be limited in the power of receiving electrical appliances. This is not a whim of the board and the electrician, but the reality of today.

Residual current circuit breakers (automatic
switches, circuit breakers, thermal units)
nominal: 6A, 10A, 16A, 20A, 32A, 40A

Today there are many models of residual current circuit breakers in stores. Let's decide on the electrical power ratings most suitable for SNT. Practice shows that a 16A machine is sufficient for a garden house. This is 3520 Watts of power (16A x 220 Volts = 3520 Watts). The machine will withstand the simultaneous inclusion (mark in the table) of a heater in the cold season, a powerful water pump, a refrigerator, a TV, 2 - 4 light bulbs and will still have small household needs. And if you, for example, use a modern LSD TV, then its power does not exceed 100 - 200 watts (for example, a Hyundai LSD TV, 60 cm diagonally, consumes only 30 Watts). If you don’t have incandescent light bulbs, then down with another 200 watts. With such power, a gardener who comes on weekends or only during the season will feel quite comfortable without having to run around and prove obvious things to his comrades from the board or to them, but through the court.

For a garden house The most appropriate installation is at the entrance to the house, i.e. after the electric meter, a residual current circuit breaker that limits the power of the electricity consumer, with a nominal value of 16 amperes. In this case, the consumer receives 3.52 kW of allocated power.

You may have a premature question: “How so? 15 people have already exhausted all the allocated power for SNT. And there are 65 consumers. Don't worry. It will not happen. But we’ll deal with this on the next page of the site.

Now let's decide on residential building. It is no secret that gardeners who permanently live in their homes on the territory of SNT are the main consumers of electricity. Limit their right to use electricity in the quantity (measured in kW/hours) that they need, we cannot. But, definitely, we must limit their electrical power consumption. If this is not done, then the power allocated for SNT will not be enough for the rest of the gardeners, including the residents themselves.

What happens if a gardener decides to install an electric boiler in his residential building, the maximum power of which is 15 kW, and provided that SNT is allocated only 15 kW of power? That's right, the voltage on its line will drop to 120 volts in all houses and houses. Even if we take into account that the boiler will not constantly operate at maximum power, you should remember that at the peak of the cold, as well as at the first start after the break, it will reach this power. What to do?

To some SNTs and their inhabitants, a “witch hunt” and a “lynching” may seem like the most just retribution for the scoundrels who encroached on the sacred, on electrical power. However, the courts, following the showdowns and crazy decisions of fools, put everything in its place. Disconnected gardeners reconnect, and hostility and distrust of each other are brewing in society. SNT regularly pays for connection and other expenses of the offended. In the end, permanent residents become that bone that is stuck in the throat and that no one can pull out. Or maybe they are not to blame? Maybe we should look elsewhere?
Don't blame all electrical problems on each other. Our entire electric power industry is lame. The law already allows everyone to have more, but the real physical capabilities of power lines, substations, and all electrical equipment do not. So it’s better to make sure that in SNT the capabilities of your power line allow you to increase the received power electricity, and only then just pester power supply organizations with questions about increasing power. At the same time, there is no need to look for those to blame in SNT if you previously calculated, installed, limited and sealed everything. It’s just that the electrician and the board need to stupidly monitor this economy.

Let's turn again to practice. A residential 2-storey building with a coal (wood, gas) boiler, with a local treatment plant, a pump for water supply from a well (well) and all other electrical appliances that are used in an ordinary city apartment, in SNT conditions draws a power of 25A or even 32A . This is equal, respectively: 5.5 kW or 7.04 kW. 25A is definitely enough for a home where electricity, for example, at some certain moment is simultaneously used by 3 powerful appliances: a boiler, an electric vacuum cleaner, a microwave oven, a water pump, plus or minus 1 kW.

Add one heater to these devices and that’s it: the 25A machine will knock out. Next, you need to turn off the extra device, run to the meter and turn on the machine again. It is possible to ensure that the devices are turned on at the same time so that the machine does not get knocked out, but it is difficult and not entirely convenient.

32A circuit breaker will allow, in addition to the listed devices, to connect a heater. Of course, an even more powerful machine, for example, 40A, would be ideal. But then the gardeners will all experience a terrible voltage drop in the network from 220 volts to 120 volts. And at such a voltage, many devices will simply refuse to work. So, let's decide:

For garden residential building The most appropriate installation is at the entrance to the house, i.e. after the electric meter, a residual current circuit breaker that limits the power of the electricity consumer, with a nominal value of 32 amperes. In this case, the consumer receives 7.04 kW of allocated power.

“Yes, but this is not enough for 66 gardeners with 45 kW of allocated power from the electricity supply organization?” - you ask. I repeat. Take your time. This is the topic of the next page. In the meantime, we will continue to deal with our house. And let's start with something simple, i.e. from a garden house with a small area.

Do-it-yourself electrics in a garden house

Two-pole circuit breakers
shutdowns rated: 32A, 50A

So, after the electricity consumption meter, we have a residual current circuit breaker with a nominal value of 16A. Let us immediately note that you can install a two-pole circuit breaker or two identical ones. This makes it possible to calmly, without unnecessary thoughts, turn off the power to your house at any time and be wise with electrical wiring as you please. Of course, we must not forget about simple rules. Otherwise, let it happen short circuit, or the wiring will burn out; It will be good if your favorite house remains intact. To this we add that it is better to install two identical circuit breakers rather than one two-pole one. When disconnected, the phase pole may not work, and this is life-threatening.

Connecting the SIP-2-16 cable to the house,
single-phase connection

We have a cable at our disposal, as a rule, today it is SIP-2-16. Those. wire cross-section 16 mm², two aluminum wires in isolation. Current flows through one, the so-called “phase”, and through the other, “zero”. And these two wires are wired into your house by an electrician. This is shown schematically in the picture. The question looms before you: “What to do with all this?” As a rule, a person continues to turn to an electrician, and they do everything for him for an additional fee. However, we note one drawback. Just as you knew nothing about your home, you will never know anything. Therefore, we take a different path: puzzling, interesting and less expensive.

You have 3.52 kW of allocated power. They need to be managed wisely. We proceed from the fact that the power required to illuminate a house, as a rule, does not exceed 500 Watts at the most powerful level (5 incandescent light bulbs of 100 W each), turned on simultaneously. The people must see that they are the master of the house, and that there is day even at night. The power of the switched-on heater is 2 kW. The water pump is rather low-power, of the “Kid” type, i.e. no more than 500 watts. You should think about an external (street outlet), to which you may connect some power tools with a power of up to 2 kW, such as a water pump. From all this it follows that your two input wires must be turned into several wires, and they must be divided according to the power of the current they carry, each wire must be protected with a circuit breaker, and the cross-section for internal wiring.

Advice: Don't skimp on wires. Better buy copper cable for internal wiring. It is more durable. In addition, with a smaller wire cross-section, it transmits without loss higher current than aluminum. A solid cable is better than a flexible one for the same reasons.

To reduce electricity losses and increase power reserves for the future, purchase a cable more powerful than the table data. By doing this, you will reduce the hassle of replacing electrical wiring in the event of an increase in electrical power in SNT and, accordingly, in yours. Why not, if capacity allows? For example, according to the table you need cable cross section 1 mm² - buy a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm².

Example of using a table: In your country house it is planned to have lamps for lighting:

• on the street (porch) - 1;
• in the hallway - 1;
• in the room - 2;
• in the kitchen - 1;
• second floor - 2;
• cellar - 1
• Total: 8 pcs.

We assume that two lamps in the rooms of the 1st and 2nd floors will be of the type sconces or floor lamps. This means you will plug them into the outlet. Let's not take them into account. 6 pieces left. If you plan to use energy-saving light bulbs, then most likely their power will be as follows:

• outdoors - 15 W;
• in the hallway - 15 W;
• in 2 rooms, kitchen - 25-35 W;
• cellar - 20 W
• The total power will be: 155 W or 0.155 kW.

Remember: In any SNT you will be provided single phase power supply. This means that a cable consisting of two wires stretches from the power line to the input into your house (see picture above). You practically do not need three-phase power supply. In an ordinary residential building, your city apartment, there is a single-phase power supply, and if it is three-phase, then you don’t even know about it. The only differences are in houses with electric stoves. There, a more powerful cable and a separate phase are connected to the stove. Three-phase is associated rather with industrial equipment and high power, three-phase electric motors. As a rule, they are not used in household appliances.

So, 0.155 kW is the power of our lighting. Let's add a reserve of up to 0.2 kW just in case. We look at row 1 of the table and take the data:
For 0.2 kW of power it is quite enough, with a large margin, to use for wiring cable cross section 1 mm² and a residual current circuit breaker with a rating of 6 amperes. Our reserve will be a little more than 1 kW of power. This means that if you lay a separate cable in your house for lighting the 1st and 2nd floors, it will never heat up and will lose less electricity to overcome the resistance of the conductor itself. In the figure you can see the basic techniques for installing cables and electrical appliances in the house:

Scheme:
1) installation of the socket through a distribution box. box,
2) installation of cable from socket to socket,
3) installation of a 3-arm fan-shaped lamp

Now let's deal with sockets in the house and on the street. They definitely need to be separated. That is, the room sockets and the street socket will have different cables and different circuit breakers.

You will connect a water pump, various power tools, a concrete mixer, etc. to an outdoor outlet. As a rule, these devices do not consume more than 2.5 - 3 kW of power. To calculate, we again use the table or formula: I = P/U, it turns out: 3000/220 = 13.6A. Those. In the store you must buy a 16A circuit breaker for the cable leading to the external outlet. From the table we find that for this load we need a cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm².

We calculate the internal sockets of the house based on the allocated total power, i.e. 3.52 kW. Considering that you rarely use the external socket to its fullest, we can assume that the cable leading to internal sockets, you can also use a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm², a machine with a nominal value of 16A. The number of outlets in the house does not matter. You install them where you see fit. And load based on the total power of all connected devices: refrigerator, kettle, TV, etc.

External distribution
box with circuit breakers

Let's summarize: For a garden house, it is most advisable to purchase 2 automatic switches of 16A and one 6A, a copper rigid cable for wiring the lighting line with a cross-section of 1 mm² (length according to your calculations for the walls and ceiling of the premises) and the same cable for sockets with a cross-section of 1.5 mm² (length according to calculations).

Remember that for sockets it is best to purchase a three-core cable for the purpose of grounding them. This is a requirement safe operation almost all modern electrical appliances. In some cases of problems with electrical appliances, this will help avoid fire and electric shock.

This could be the end of the house. Inside it, on the wall, there will be mounted a small cabinet with three circuit breakers (see photo on the right). And you will clearly know which electrical appliances can be included in the network, and which cannot. You will be able to competently regulate the power switched on without constantly running to the pole where your electric meter is installed to turn on the circuit breaker. It’s easier to do this on a dashboard at home. And this is exactly what you need in your household - not to depend on anyone or anything. But I believe that it is necessary to draw your attention to several important points or rules:

DIY electrics in a residential garden house

Pad electrical wires and installation electrical appliances in a residential building has a number of its own characteristics. You can take them into account, or you can not care and forget. However, you should not neglect the practice, which justifies itself and creates additional convenience and reliability for you in the operation of all electrical appliances in the house. The differences between a residential building and a garden house will be in a more extensive communications system, more sockets, lamps, more circuit breakers in the input panel and that’s all. In addition, the power input into the house will not be 3.52 kW, but 7.02 kW or even more. It all depends on your specific SNT and its capabilities.

Let's deal with the two-story house in order. We will proceed from the fact that each subsequent paragraph of the article will be devoted, as a rule, to one line of cable (wiring), serving one important part of the house and having a separate route that does not intersect, without points of contact with other highways (the cables can be laid side by side, the main thing is that so that the current flows through them separately without bridging the bare wires).

Diagram of sockets and lighting lines with
plug-in lamps

Home lighting: It is considered most appropriate to separate the lighting of the first and second floors. This separation begins at the input panel, where two circuit breakers must be installed. From each switch will go home two different cables with the same cross-section. The switch rating, if you use energy-saving light bulbs, is 10A. We count: P = I U = 10 x 220 = 2200 Watt. Thus, using a two-core cable, you can simultaneously connect 100 light bulbs with a power of 22 watts each to the line. Using incandescent light bulbs, you can connect 22 pieces of 100 watts each. Since we have two separate lines, your house and both floors will be simply flooded with light. These lines will cover all rooms of the house, including utility rooms, and will always provide light to what is needed in this moment. The diagram on the left shows cable lines sockets and lighting of the second floor of the house, provided that the lighting of the entire house is installed on one machine, and the sockets of all rooms on a second machine. The exception is kitchen and bathroom sockets - separate machines).

Kitchen: Everything about the kitchen lighting has already been decided. Now you need to figure out the sockets for connecting a refrigerator, radio, TV (if available), microwave oven, kettle, coffee maker, toaster, convection oven and other electrical appliances. It may be necessary to connect a small boiler for hot water or instantaneous water heater. Let’s immediately make a reservation that a instantaneous water heater consumes an infinite amount of electricity. Therefore, a boiler will be preferable and more economical. The next practical point: you need to install your water supply network so that the distance from the boiler to the mixers (taps) is minimal. This makes it possible to save energy, reduce the heating time of the pipes and, accordingly, the moment when hot water starts to be supplied. Also keep in mind that one large boiler is better than two small ones. The explanation is simple: two consumers of 1.5 kW each will be connected to the network at the same time, for a total of 3 kW or one consumer of 1.5 - 2 kW. Of course, both boilers do not always turn on at the same time, but this cannot be ruled out. Thus, by including in socket one boiler, you can easily save the power allocated for your home by reserving it for other essential consumers. Practice shows that for a family of 4 people, a 100 - 150 liter boiler is enough. If the house has a bathroom, then a 150-liter boiler or even more is better.

Let's go back to the sockets. For a kitchen of 10 m² it will be quite enough to install 4 double sockets in each corner. Consider only the future location of electrical appliances and the height of the sockets from the floor. It is more convenient when the sockets are visible and located not under the tabletop, but above it. If the kitchen is larger, then provide more outlets.

We turn to the table and estimate the simultaneous inclusion of electrical appliances within the allocated power. Approximately 4.5 kW for a short time, up to 5 kW (5000 Watt). For a long time - 3.5 - 4.0 kW (washing machine, water pump, refrigerator, lighting). We count to the maximum: I = P / U = 5000 / 220 = 22.7 A. Those. we need a residual current circuit breaker with a rating of 20 - 25A. For such a load, a cable with a thickness of 2.5 mm² is quite suitable. Despite some discrepancies with the data in the table, the 20A circuit breaker in my house has never turned off. The wires don't get hot. If, when calculating, the total power when electrical appliances are simultaneously turned on is more than 5 kW, then it is better to install a 25A residual current circuit breaker in the distribution panel with the same 2.5 mm² conductor.

Bathroom, bathroom: We remember that we have already made the lighting for the bathroom and toilet (or combined) a separate line. Let's understand the sockets and their number. Don't go crazy with specialized sockets with built-in moisture protection. I hope that no one is going to use a watering can to water the outlet. Therefore, a regular socket with a grounding device is quite suitable for a bathroom according to SNiPs. The most appropriate number of sockets is from 2 to 3 doubles. In this case, you can include a boiler and bathroom or shower equipment, a washing machine and a low-power dryer, a lamp built into the mirror and an electric razor or hair dryer. Some sockets should be hidden, located away from accidental splashes, while others are more conveniently located in places where electrical appliances are installed. The line leading to the bathroom sockets is also supposed to be separate. First, the line in the distribution panel must be installed with an RCD, similar to a kitchen line with a nominal value of 20A.

We look at the table and determine that two powerful consumers can operate simultaneously: a boiler and a washing machine. If there is a water pump on this line, then we will add that too. In total, 5 kW is gained. This means we pull a separate line into the bathroom with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm², and install a 20A RCD in the panel. All calculations are similar to the kitchen.

Living rooms, utility rooms (wardrobe, storage room, corridor, etc.): Living rooms, provided that there is already a main line for the main lamps under the ceiling, do not need to be equipped with anything special. Your work will be reduced to laying and installing sockets. Try to think about where to install them, taking into account the location of furniture, TV, floor lamps, etc.

Advice: When installing sockets, be sure to provide two or three cable outlets through the external walls for installation of external street sockets. It is most advisable to place external sockets under the window drains, thereby additionally protecting them from moisture.

It should be taken into account that you have already connected the most powerful energy consumers in the house to separate lines and circuit breakers. It follows that dividing the sockets of the first and second floors into two separate lines is impractical. Moreover, you already have an additional socket installed in the distribution cabinet, just in case, and there are existing lines with sockets in the bathroom and kitchen. That is, if this line malfunctions, you can always use an extension cord from any kitchen, bathroom or switchboard outlet.

Let's turn to the first table and estimate the consumers of electricity that can be simultaneously connected to the network: 2 TVs, an additional refrigerator, music Center, iron, 3 floor lamps, home theater, computer, printer. Quite enough. Result: 3.5 kW. Based on the second table, we determine that for such a load it is advisable to use a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² and a 16A residual current circuit breaker. Be sure to use a three-core cable for sockets. Those. one core will be used as grounding - just like in the kitchen and bathroom.

Heating: It would seem that this item has nothing to do with the power supply at home. Let's figure out how true this is. The heating issue is the most important in common system life support country house, existing offline. In the vast majority of SNT there is nothing but electricity. All other amenities must be created by the owner of the site himself. You will not receive any favors from the authorities, and gardeners will not soon unite to create something with their own funds. Thank you for the fact that there are power lines and electricity.

Advice: If you do not have 15 kW of power allocated for your home in accordance with Resolution of the Cabinet of Ministers of the Russian Federation No. 861, then under no circumstances try to create a paradise for yourself by stuffing an electric boiler into your fireplace as the main heater in winter conditions. It will not be able to function normally in conditions of low voltage in the SNT network and lack of power. When choosing such a boiler, always start the conversation in the store with the maximum power consumed by the boiler. And if in SNT your circuit breaker, installed immediately after the meter, has a rating less than the maximum power consumed by the boiler, then the boiler will not work. The machine will kick out immediately after starting. Do not listen to the seller who will tell a fairy tale about how the boiler consumes much less than it is written, that it is very economical, etc. All this is true provided that the heating system is already heated by something and the temperature in the house is +20°. Then the boiler automation reduces electricity consumption, maintaining the level that was achieved up to this point.

Based on what has been said, let’s choose an alternative electric heating. The main boiler will be one that runs on wood, coal, gas, etc. What is better or worse is the topic of another page of the site, where all this is described in detail and discussed taking into account practice, and not the advice of sellers and sales offices. As you understand, they and you have little different tasks. Although it is always useful to listen to advice. But let's go back to heating devices. Power selection must be carried out using a simple rule:

REMEMBER: 1 kW of electric heater power heats up to 10 m² of living space at standard height ceiling 2.5 meters. This applies to any boilers, heaters, heaters. And it doesn’t matter at all what the house is heated with. The total area is divided by 10, we get the boiler power in kW. More exact calculation on the page: Heating in a garden (country) house in the conditions of SNT, which takes into account other parameters: wall thickness, window area, types of insulation, etc.

“It’s impossible to pick up anything at all with this kind of “makar”. The area is large - there won’t be enough electricity,” you say. The answer is - it is possible and necessary. And we will succeed. After all, your 2-story house has alternative electric heating. Those. not the main thing. It follows that on average two-storey house with an area of ​​150 m², we will not have to consume 15 kW of electrical power, because the main load will be carried by a coal boiler (wood-burning, fireplace, etc.)

IR heater in the form of a lamp,
power 600 watts in the attic

Next, we will calculate the load, paying attention to the fact that there is definitely no need to simultaneously turn on all electric heaters in the house. Heating at a certain time is needed only where it is needed, and only to the temperature level that you have set. Therefore, you make the first decision about where electric heating is needed and where it is not needed. Most likely you can refuse additional heating hall on the second floor, pantry, dressing room and others utility rooms. Decide for yourself. The reduced unheated area in total will amount to a significant saving in the number of heaters and, accordingly, electrical load. The choice of types of heaters is yours. There are so many offers on the market now that it’s easy to get confused. From all this variety, we can single out only one type, which will allow you, having done it once, never to think about it again, and over time, generally forget that somewhere in the house something continues to work properly, creating comfort and warmth. We are talking about infrared heaters. Everyone else is resting today. Of course, if you have money, you can install it on the roof solar panels. Search the Internet on this topic. As far as we know, the price of such electrical appliances is going through the roof, and in winter the efficiency of such heaters is reduced to zero. And don't be fooled by sellers' promises. Let me remind you that you and they have different tasks. Yours is to get heat efficiently and cheaply, and to sell them, preferably at a higher price. Let's return to infrared heaters. The ones that are most suitable for your home are the ones that you don’t notice.

Let's figure it out design load for the second attic floor residential building: two (possibly more) living rooms, a hall and a dressing room. We will place heaters only in living rooms.

Example of installation of an IR mat with a power of 200
Watt on special supports (included)
on the wall in the bathroom. Switched on via relay
time for 1 hour in the evening and 30 min. in the morning.
Used as a dryer

In the dressing room we will provide one IR rug, located in the lower corner of the room, which is formed by two external walls Houses. This trick will protect the room from condensation from the warmer air of the house, which will come into contact in an unheated room in winter with street negative temperatures below -10°C. In this case, freezing of the corner is inevitable. Having placed an IR mat with a power of only 200 Watts, you need to plug it into an outlet via a time relay. Set the time relay for 4 - 6 activations during the day for 30 minutes each.
We calculate: your rug will burn only 0.6 kW/h per day electricity, per month - 18 kW/h. This is much less than a battery or any other heat source.
If condensation does not fall out, this means that freezing of the wall does not reach the surface interior wall dressing room (or other unheated room) and the dew point remains inside the wall, where moisture from the room does not reach. You can find out for sure by watching this angle in winter.
Instead of an IR mat, you can use it in the corner under flooring install IR film, heated floors with the same power and a regulator that ensures switching on at a certain time and for a given period.

Go ahead. We equip two living rooms on the second floor, 18 - 25 m² each, with four IR heaters with a power of 600 W each: two in one room and two in the other. We connect them in parallel to get the rated power. In total, each room will have 1.2 kW of power. According to technical specifications One heater can supply heat to up to 12 m² of area. Those. these two are more than enough. The total total power of the second floor, including the IR mat, will be 2.6 kW.

In order to prevent simultaneous activation of all infrared heaters on the second floor we install a thermal switch in each room, which in turn is set to +18°C (when there are no people in the room, less is possible). Our infrared mat is connected via a time relay with 4 to 6 switchings for 30 minutes each. By doing this, we achieve non-simultaneous inclusion of heaters in the network, and save power resources, leaving them for other purposes. In addition, having a main source of heat (fireplace, stove, boiler, etc.), we practically do not use electricity at all to heat our home. Our IR heaters turn on only when the boiler has not been working for some time, or the heat from the stove has already been transferred to the house, or when you come to the dacha only on weekends. To prevent the house from freezing out, IR heaters will maintain the set temperature. Manufacturers claim that IR heaters operate from 8 to 10 hours a day. That's how it happens - they don't lie. True, this will only be so if good insulation the house itself. But that's a topic for another page. We'll deal with this too later. Similarly, we install IR heaters on the first floor. As a result, we get a solid total power of up to 6 kW for both floors. But, due to the non-simultaneous activation of each of the heaters, adjustment desired temperature V different rooms, we achieve that when the boiler is not working, only half of this power is turned on. Practice has shown that in a house with a total area of ​​140 m² in winter, during the coldest month, electricity consumption does not exceed 1000 kW/h. Is it a lot or a little? Do the math for yourself. Just take into account the complete autonomy of the residential building from all communications, excluding electricity. By the way, in summer consumption does not fall below 400 - 500 kW/h per month. It seems that this is too much. However, most of electricity is used for hot water supply. Of these 500 kW/h, almost half is for water heating.

A few words should be given warm floors. On the 1st floor in rooms where the temperature on the floor drops to uncomfortable levels, it is advisable to use IR film flooring for floor coverings. This is especially true for the corridor or hall near front door, as well as rooms where the builders messed up. Those. this means that on the floor, despite all the tricks, the dew point is on its surface, or there is a strong cold draft from the hallway from the front door. In this case, the problem is solved by installing a film floor under the floor covering. You just need to know for sure that the dampness that forms on the surface of the floor, in the corners of contact of the floor with the external walls, is not associated with dampness coming from the wetting of the foundation or the outside wall. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate the external problem. Having installed a warm floor once, you can get rid of strange drafts in the house, which are actually explained by the banal movement of warm air into the cold room above, and cold air below into warm room, which is exactly where we are.

Voltage regulator: In SNT conditions, the selection and installation of a voltage stabilizer often becomes important, especially when winter time The voltage in the network often drops to 120 - 130 Volts, and almost all devices simply refuse to work. This is due to many reasons. For example, in our SNT, in addition to gardeners who turn on their antediluvian powerful “goats” in winter, there is also an entire city street from which the cable is connected to SNT. Measurements show that such low voltage comes to SNT from the city, or more precisely from the street. Transformer substation for this street and SNT is 1 kilometer from input panel SNT. In order to ensure the functionality of electrical appliances in the house, the gardener has only one option - to buy a voltage stabilizer.

Voltage stabilizers 3
different manufacturers

For precise definition To determine the characteristics of this device that you need, which allows you to draw low voltage to the required level - 220 Volts, you need to use the first table, first substituting into it those electrical appliances that can simultaneously operate on the home network. The most conservative estimate at a network voltage of 220 Volts gives confidence that a stabilizer with a rating of 10 kVA is sufficient. But by reducing the voltage in the network, the power of the stabilizer increases. In stores, a stabilizer up to 10 kVA fully meets the availability in terms of price, quality, reasonable power for two-story house. But more powerful stabilizers are expensive, bulky, and they themselves consume electricity comparable to a light bulb.

If you consider connecting your heating devices through a stabilizer, then 10 kVA is not enough. But here you can go a little differently. Provide one trick in your power supply system: pass all cable lines of the kitchen, bathroom, room sockets, lighting through a stabilizer, thereby ensuring the stable operation of all electrical appliances connected to these lines. But IR heating can be started directly, bypassing Voltage regulator. It will still work. The only thing that should be taken into account in this case is that due to the low voltage, the rated power will not be achieved by the heaters. Those. instead of 600 watts, the device will produce, for example, only 400 watts. But, it will still work. There is nothing in the IR heater circuit that would require a mandatory 220 Volt voltage. Well, let’s take into account that at low voltage the electricity consumption of heaters will be much lower.

To conclude the material on this page, it is necessary to add a few final provisions and call it a day:

A few important takeaways:
1. Having dealt with energy supply for your garden house, residential building, it is easy to calculate the actions of the SNT board to allocate electrical power to the houses (residential buildings) of gardeners. At the same time, no one can limit the gardener in the amount of electricity received; only the power is limited. Everything else is the tales of the chairman and his associates, who want to raise their loved ones to unattainable heights.
2. If a gardener installs a residual current circuit breaker of less than 16A in a residential building, then living in such a house will be uncomfortable. The issue of increasing electrical power should be resolved with the SNT board. If necessary, then through the court.
3. The material on this page does not claim to be the ultimate truth. You can think differently and make more advanced and smart decisions about your home's electrical needs.
4. Calculated expedient capacities for a garden house and a residential building are the minimum required. There is simply no further limit.

If you purchased in gardening partnership plot, are you going to build or have already built capital house or a house with maximum amenities for a normal life, you have an electrical supply connected, the required electrical power has been calculated, but the board refuses to provide it, telling tales about scoundrels from the electricity supply organization, about the prohibitive number of gardeners connected to SNT power lines, about the theft of electricity, etc., etc. other..., then it’s time for you to switch to the next page of the SNT “Pishchevik” website - “Organization of power supply for a garden non-profit partnership. Calculation of the required electrical power for garden houses (residential buildings) and other energy-receiving devices.” This page will help you, using the example of our SNT and, based on the "Code of Rules for the design and construction of SP 31-110-2003", calculate the required design power for the entire partnership, separately for houses and separately for residential buildings, and then display it on clean water storyteller chairman and his associates.