Greenhouse products in Japan. Japanese technology for growing greens Japanese technology for growing greens

59 beds - the garden is not small. And it does not require any weeding or pest control. And the yields cannot be compared with conventional farming. And most importantly - nothing complicated! Why do we have only one or two such vegetable gardens and gardeners? Why does everything new find its way to our dachas with such difficulty? Maybe we just don’t want to make life easier for ourselves?..

What is “Vegetable Growing According to Jevons”

Let me offer you a new high-yielding technology for growing vegetables on summer cottages. It is based on the discoveries of scientists: aerobic and anaerobic microbes, biointensive method of American farmer John Jevons, described in the book “How to grow more vegetables than you can imagine, and on a much smaller plot than you think”, the work of Japanese and Russian scientists using microbes and, of course, personal observations and conclusions.

I will only give conclusions, omitting the whole process of how I arrived at them. I was surprised and amazed by the harvest figures obtained by scientists who reproduced biointensive technology of D. Jevons. Judge for yourself. The first digit is average, the second is maximum.

Potatoes - 450-3540 kg per hundred square meters, watermelon - 450-1450 kg, barley - 45-110 kg, zucchini - 440-370 kg, late cabbage - 870-1740 kg, onions - 910-2450 kg, carrots - 680- 4900 kg, cucumber - 540-2170 kg, tomato - 880-1900 kg, beets - 500-1200 kg, fodder beets - 1810-4300 kg, garlic - 550-1100 kg.

The plants were planted at the same time as recommended by domestic agronomy, either with seeds or seedlings. As for the landing scheme, for the purpose best use The area of ​​the plant was placed in a checkerboard pattern so that the distances from stem to stem or from center to center of the hole were the same. For common vegetable crops he and these: eggplants - 45 cm, beans - 20 cm, watermelon, pumpkin, tomato - 46 cm, cabbage, zucchini, melon, sweet corn - 38 cm, peas - 7.5 cm, beans - 15 cm, carrots -8 cm, parsley - 13 cm, onion, garlic, beet -10 cm, potatoes - 23 cm, radish - 5 cm, cucumber, Bell pepper- 30 cm.

The Japanese in Buryatia, and then in Barvikha near Moscow, received a cucumber harvest 1.7 times greater than in the Russian control area. Moreover, the consumption of microorganisms was from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. My eyes lit up: how will other vegetables behave? What kind of microbes are these? And I found the answer to this in the article “Microbes against Diseases.” It turns out that this is a regular mullein solution (1/3 of a bucket of mullein, the rest is water). After everything has fermented, which is 5-7 days (it all depends on the temperature environment), add whey, buttermilk, skim milk - dairy waste, rotted hay (2/3 bucket + water). These microbes destroy powdery mildew, anthracnose, late blight, various rots, etc.

The entire area is divided into beds and paths. The width of the beds is up to 1.2 m, the length is arbitrary, the width of the paths is 0.3-0.5 m. We walk only along the paths, we do not step on the beds at any time of the year. Everything is planted across the beds. In D. Jevons' technology, soil preparation consists of double digging using humus or compost in a layer of 5-7 cm, i.e. They poured a 5-7 cm layer of humus onto the bed, dug it up with a bayonet, took out the dug up soil, poured 5-7 cm of humus again, again dug up what they had dug up before, and returned it back to the bed.

Mysterious phenomena or microbes in the soil

Let's look at soil preparation from today's perspective. Aerobic microbes are situated in top layer soil: 0-5 cm. Classic example: wooden stake, driven into the ground, after a few years it begins to rot from the surface of the earth to a depth of 5 cm. In the depths, the wood of the stake does not change over time. What role does humus or compost play in the second digging according to D. Jevons, agronomic science has no answer.

Every gardener knows the role a handful of compost and humus plays in the spring when planting. Plowworms and all the inhabitants of the aerobic layer of soil begin their work: they destroy rot, late blight, powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc. The plant does not waste its energy on this; it grows quickly.

During the soil liming stage, I encountered another phenomenon that has not been described by science. We are accustomed to the fact that once we lime, it means we achieve a change in soil pH. But it turns out that by liming the soil we not only change the pH, we change the composition of the soil. Therefore, weeds grow poorly or disappear for a long time (for example, woodlice). The soil is being loosened to a considerable depth. If we adhere to the values ​​​​provided by science, then the depth of loosening during liming is 90-120 cm.

Has anyone read about this in technical literature? I've never met. Loose soil after liming allows air and water to pass through without restrictions, the soil does not stick together, does not clump, and remains loose for 4-5 years. Everyone is familiar with the phenomenon of dew, when, upon reaching certain temperature moisture vapor from the air passes into liquid state, settle on objects, grass, soil, which is saturated with moisture.

But scientists have also discovered this phenomenon: if a small amount of water is introduced under the root of a plant to a depth of 15-20 cm, this water will provoke moisture from the depths of the soil to rise up to the surface! As a result, our plant will receive the same amount of moisture as with regular watering. Which is no longer necessary.

Invisible helpers in the garden

In the fall, he limed the entire soil, and in the spring he divided it into beds and paths. I haven’t been digging for nine years! Who loosens the soil and makes it suitable for planting vegetables? Autumn wets the soil with rain, and freezes with ice. When water freezes, it expands, but it is contained in the soil. In spring the frosts disappear and the soil is loose. No unit will create such finely dispersed loose soil.

It is also loosened by underground inhabitants - aerobic microbes, worms, etc. When liming, the soil is loosened to a depth of 90-120 cm for up to 5-6 years. Why dig? I straightened the edges of the beds with a rake and retained the moisture. I also took microbes as my assistant, and I do all the work with their help: processing seeds, planting seedlings, preparing compost.

The working solution of microbes is unchanged - from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. microbes per 10 liters of water. I have given above three microbial compositions (mullein, dairy industry waste, rotted hay). At the end of the article I will give another recipe that I use. I plant the same way as D. Jevons.

From spring to autumn I prepare compost from all organic residues. For mass, I mow the grass that is adjacent to the end of the garden on the side of the river. Previously, I sprayed the grass layer by layer with a purchased preparation made from sugar production waste, then I began to use working microbial solutions, and then I stopped processing it altogether. When the grass dries out, it rots (it rots) - the seed is ready. By autumn I get compost in the depths of the heaps, and next year Almost all grass is processed into compost. I use it when planting and spread it into the beds.

Watering: add 1 tsp to a bucket of water (10 l). up to 1 tbsp. l. microbes and I water them with this working solution, spray the bushes and plants to prevent the disease and treat the disease itself, if any. For 9 years, not a single plant got sick.

Microbes are stored and obtained in glass, wooden, plastic dishes, but not in a metal one, even if it is a stainless steel container. Microbes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and die from it - they cannot be stored in the light. Microbes die from solutions of salts, acids, alkalis (this is for those gardeners who want to combine watering with a microbial solution with fertilizer). Microbes work in a humid environment.

Without chemical fertilizers it's difficult to grow vegetables. If I apply fertilizer like this. as it is written in the instructions, and water at the root or on a piece of land, I will destroy my helpers - aerobic microbes. I have only one way out - through the leaves, i.e. foliar feeding. And in order not to scorch or burn the leaves of plants, the dose of fertilizers must be reduced several times compared to root dressings. I used 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water as a basis. And here two more discoveries awaited me.

The first is everything that blooms, sets and bears fruit. Not a single flower fell or disappeared! Secondly, plants develop more intensively, become taller and more productive.

I used all this when growing vegetables. Please note: fertilizers do not contaminate the soil. do not accumulate in plants. Plants develop harmoniously and energetically. Taste, aroma, storage - everything is on top level. I didn't notice anything negative. I will give a number of examples of growing vegetables.

Method of application of Jevons technology in vegetable growing

Garlic

I plant prepared and processed garlic in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring I loosen the row spacing with a flat cutter and feed foliar feeding 3-4 times full complex fertilizer with an interval of 3 days.

Garlic is growing rapidly. The soil is moist, I water it with a working microbial solution - the microbes work at full capacity. Then I water as needed, but still with germs. A week before the deadline, or even earlier, I dig up the garlic, dry it in the shade, cut off the tops and roots.

Potato

Processing planting material and germinate. I plant 23?23 cm, I also planted according to the 23?10-11 cm scheme - the results are still excellent. IN landing hole I throw in a handful of compost, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash. If the potatoes are large, I cut them into pieces so that there are 2-3 sprouts. If it’s small, I make a cut, but not all the way, so that there are more sprouts. I throw it into the hole and onion skins, I also treat it with a purchased preparation for pre-planting treatment - everything that is at hand. All results were good.

After planting the potatoes, the entire surface was treated with a working microbial solution. With a row spacing of 10-12 cm, I used a plow-shaped hiller to simultaneously hill up and make a ditch for irrigation.

I don’t do any more work on the ground before digging. I dig from the narrow end towards the unexcavated part. If you dig the old fashioned way, you cut a lot of potatoes. Colorado potato beetle We collect it manually with a broom into a container.

This year, from two beds 4.9 m long and 1.2 m high, we received 7-8 full 10-liter buckets of potatoes. They planted everything that was left after the winter and was not used for food. According to my calculations, the harvest is from 980 to 1100 kg per hundred square meters.

Shrubs

Under each bush in the fall I scatter 1 bucket of compost and a glass of wood ash. In the spring I treated from powdery mildew. All shrubs received foliar feeding before buds bloomed, and then again after blooming.

And here I observed again: everything that bloomed began to bloom and yielded a harvest. Not a single flower was dropped onto the soil!

Strawberry

I fed it with foliar fertilizers three times: immediately after the snow melted, before flowering, and during flowering. Although the plantation was planted in the fall, the harvest is surprisingly abundant; with foliar feeding, I do not observe gray rot on strawberries at all.

9 years without weeding and weed control

My helpers, microbes, grew my crops. There is an opportunity to receive a second, and even a third!

I grow green manure. I settled on mustard as a crop. Garlic beds are cleared first, then onion beds, etc. And in those beds where tomatoes and peppers grow, I scatter mustard seeds between the plants.

Here I do two things: first, I add green manure, and second, I leave it until spring.

Then green manure, or rather what remains of them, retains snow in winter, and in spring it slows down the melting, the soil is saturated with healing melt water. In the spring, the remains are removed with a rake and either sent to compost heap, or are crushed and returned to the garden bed for processing by microbes and worms. All beds receive compost from a common heap. And I have 59 beds.

I haven’t dug the soil in my garden beds for nine years. The question arises: what about weeding and weed control? There are no or practically no weeds in the beds. Weeds are only on the paths, and even then they are vagrant: wild purslane and imported from South America galinzoga.

During the full moon and new moon, I remove weeds with a flat cutter, and very little time is spent on this work.

And here is the promised microbial composition that I work with – the basic one. 1 liter of whey, dissolve 1 tsp in it. sour cream (priming).

In 1 liter of water (pond, snow, spring, etc., but not from the tap!) I dissolve 1 tbsp. l. honey (neither molasses, nor sugar, nor candied jam are suitable - chemical processing products). This is food for microbes.

I combine both solutions and increase the volume to 10 liters. Dishes should be glass, wood, plastic. You can add 10 g of yeast - this will only expand the range of microbial work. I store it in places where there is no light. When opening a hermetically sealed container where microbes are stored, a popping sound is heard. This suggests that there are microbes and they are working.

Translation - Maxim Zinchenko

Although Japan has a very large indoor growing industry, only a small part of it uses hydroponic systems, and grow factories are just beginning to take shape. Report from Mike Nichols and Bruce Christie.

In January 2007 we were invited to talk about organic hydroponics at the 24th SHITA conference in Tokyo, Japan. It was a very short visit, but we tried to take advantage of the opportunity to look at Japan's achievements in greenhouse farming and the achievements of their hydroponic factories where plants grow. This article is only about greenhouse products; a separate article will be published about hydroponic factories.

In Japan, about 52,000 hectares are covered with greenhouses and 14,000 have rain shelters. Most of The greenhouses are covered with film and only 5% with glass. 69% of the entire greenhouse industry is used for the production of vegetables, 17% for flowers and 14% for fruit trees.

It was a surprise for us to discover that in such a high-tech country as Japan, only 1500 hectares of greenhouse farms use soilless growing technology (this is approximately 3% of all greenhouse farms).

These greenhouses use various hydroponic systems and methods, with mineral wool growing the most prevalent, followed by deep water technology and, by the way, three-quarters of the crops grown hydroponically are vegetables. In Japan, melon, strawberries and watermelons are classified as vegetables and occupy up to 30% of all vegetable greenhouses.
Our visit was at the end of January, in the middle of the northern hemisphere this time is called winter and our estimates should take this into account since we came from the New Zealand summer. It's too easy to criticize products made during a difficult time of year.

In fact, it would be fair to say that we were amazed by what we were shown. We had time to see some sights in Chiba Province (north of Tokyo). Chiba Province is at 36 degrees northern latitude, the winter climate here turned out to be much more pleasant than one might expect. Winter in Chiba is a dry and partly cloudy season.

The presentation and freshness of the produce was great at this farmers market.

We visited the farmers' market, located in a purpose-built building, where a variety of various types fruits and vegetables domestic production. The presentation and freshness of the products was simply amazing and local farmers sell such products to local consumers. All products are grown on minimal areas and, if possible, with low energy consumption. Of course, off-season products are mainly still imported from southern regions countries where production costs are lower.

Our first visit was to a strawberry grower's greenhouse. Producing ripe strawberries in the middle of winter requires a lot of attention to detail and we were very impressed with this harvest. She was raised in mats of mineral wool, which were on raised gutters. Was a used recirculating hydroponic system. Surprisingly, they were also used for pollination. honey bees and bumblebees, and the prices in the stores were even more amazing. We estimate the price to be around NZ$20-25 per basket or NZ$200 per kilo!

Honeybees and bumblebees are used for pollination

In Japan, strawberries are a vegetable.

Strawberries growing in rockwool mats in raised troughs

The harvest, of course, could not be compared with the greenhouse strawberries that we saw in Belgium (Nichols, 2006), but keep in mind that we were in Belgium in the middle of summer.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the entire production was the production of runners - a key component of any out-of-season strawberry production.

We used whisker tips at Massey University (2002), but in this case the whiskers were rooted into individual pots placed below rockwool mats. This must be a much more time-consuming and tedious task than working on the ends of your mustache.
Our next visit was to a greenhouse tomato producer. Here we were slightly disappointed, because the technology used for producing greenhouse tomatoes was 20 years old and this visit was more like a visit to the past. Key points in efficient production these days it is high spreaders and hangers, but in this greenhouse they still used low spreaders and hangers so that the fruit was literally lying on the floor.

Seedlings are grafted onto resistant rootstocks

Due to the low suspension, the fruits literally lie on the floor

This is a small family business

Of course, not everything is so bad, the next time the cuttings were grafted onto resistant rootstocks, the quality of the resulting fruits was remarkable and the small room that was used for packing the crop turned out to be very useful.

DFT hydroponic systems using floating rafts are something we are very little familiar with in New Zealand. One of the main reasons to visit Japan at this time is to see and touch the aquaponics systems used to grow leafy vegetables.

Soilless cultivation accounts for only 3%

Our third visit was to farmer Mitsudamo, who, using a very sophisticated floating platform, produces about 250 tons per year in a 0.8 hectare greenhouse. This is a continuous year-round farm that begins by sowing five or six seeds per cell, which are automatically planted on a block of foam cells. After the seeds germinate in the seedling room, in which both temperature and humidity are controlled, the plants continue to grow there for some time; after a while, each cell is automatically transplanted by machine into the holes on wide polystyrene floating rafts and they are moved to the DFT system.

At first, the plants on the rafts grow very close to each other. As the plants grow, they are replanted again special machine already into other rafts, where the cells are already more thinned out and there are more holes. The only difference in the rafts is the number of holes in them.

Seeds are germinated in small nurseries

sprouts whose roots are immersed in solution

Sprouts are automatically transplanted into rafts

Typical DFT system

Machine for automatic transfer to rafts with sparser holes

Harvesting is still a manual task

Small packing room - small but efficient

Ready to sell product

In order for the transplantation of small plants to be successful, it is necessary to make sure that all the roots of the seedlings go into the hole in the raft; for this purpose, special streams of water are used during transplantation.

Next interesting point Our visit included seeing how spinach is grown in a hybrid floating raft-NFT system. A similar cultivation technology is used by Mitsudamo farmers. Since spinach is very sensitive to various root diseases (for example, late blight), a separate tray is used for each planting to prevent them.

Overheating the roots can also increase the risk of disease, so each tank has a heat exchanger built into it to help cool the nutrient solution in the summer. Between harvests, this heat exchanger can be used to pasteurize the nutrient solution by circulating hot water (80 degrees), which is very effective in combating diseases.

Spinach growing in a hybrid system

This is what the system looks like inside

Healthy spinach harvest

Spinach root system

Khabarovsk became the first city in Russia to build a plant for growing greens using Green Rooms technology. A special feature of the enterprise is its almost complete autonomy - climate, concentration carbon dioxide, lighting is controlled by technology. To grow greens, soil-free hydroponic technologies are used using only two types of domestically produced fertilizers. Constant temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius, 80% humidity and closed loop water exchange allows you to harvest crops all year round.

“Today the plant does not operate at full power- only in February we made the first test landing. We are now collecting applications from retail chains and forming plans for the next period. So far, we can produce about three thousand bushes of greenery per day, the maximum volume is 10,800 bushes,” said Gennady Borsa, director of the Agricultural Technologies of the Future company.

The plant has 19 shelving structures, four of which are for seedlings and growing plants, and the rest for production finished products. The plant can grow up to 47 types of greens - so far, about 20 salad crops have been tested. Now the company selects 4-5 basic types lettuce with which they will work at the market. Main criteria - taste qualities, ease of cultivation and transportation. Also, cilantro, arugula and basil produced by the enterprise will soon appear on the shelves of Khabarovsk stores.

“In the Khabarovsk Territory, since the beginning of the year, the second major project in the field of greenhouse vegetable growing has been implemented, and over the entire 2015, the area of ​​our greenhouse farms has increased almost tenfold. The introduction of innovative technologies for the production of agricultural products in the region is becoming a good tradition. It is gratifying that despite the crisis in the economy, it was a Russian investor who invested in the project and built the country’s first plant for growing greens,” said Arkady Mkrtychev, chief of staff of the governor and government of the region.

The plant is currently investigating price issues, but it is already known that it will be slightly higher than the market average. The packaging in which the salads will go to stores is hermetically sealed, which will ensure the safety of the product for more than two weeks - the greens will retain moisture and that’s it beneficial features. As the director of the enterprise also noted, their products compare favorably with their concentration harmful substances- it is almost two times lower than the maximum permissible values.

So much attention is paid to the safety of greenery that you can only be near the racks in special clothing. In addition, the company’s employees are prohibited from contacting salads from other manufacturers, so they receive the plant’s products free of charge. This is done to avoid specific diseases inherent in greenery.

The plant cost investors about 400 million rubles, 70% of which is the cost of equipment. The payback period of the project at maximum load is 3.5 years.

The primary meaning of the word "bonsai" in Japanese is "that which is grown on a tray (platter)" or "on a platter or tray." In modern realities, the word “bonsai” means a miniature tree, an exact copy of an ordinary one or plant. In the article you will learn what Japanese food is and how to use it at home.

Bonsai art

Usually, when people hear about bonsai, they immediately think of Japan. But this art is rooted in the cultural heritage of a completely different country - China.

Did you know? IN Chinese culture this art was called "pencai" and arose around 231 BC.

Historically, the Japanese were introduced to the art of working with miniature trees by Buddhist monks who spent their entire lives wandering. For them, this art was part of a religious tradition. They called it quite poetically - "The path to Heaven covered with greenery."

The new art spread throughout Japan like wildfire. The system of canons, decorating rules, the appearance of plants, its compatibility with others decorative elements- all this was developed by the Japanese. They identified and perfected the styles that ultimately formed the basis of modern, classic bonsai. The most famous are the broom, rock tree, cascade, calligraphic tree, twisting trunk, stump, bamboo and stones and many others.

The number of bonsai styles reaches over thirty. First of all, you should consider classic styles, which lie at the heart of art. They focus mainly on the external component in order to bring miniatures as close as possible to their natural counterparts. What bonsai is can best be understood from this photo.

Refers to formal vertical styles. Their features include a straight trunk: wide at the base and tapering closer to the top. The style suits most species and types of trees, because it is classic. Tekkan is a symbol of indestructible vitality and proud loneliness.

Also applies to representatives of the vertical form. It is extremely popular with most bonsai gardeners. Such broad interest is due to the fact that the structure of style is not limited by rules or certain canons. The shape of the branches is not controlled by a clear design. The only condition- the top, which should grow perpendicular to the ground. As a rule, such a bonsai has the shape of the letter S. At each new bend there are many branches. Style is a symbol of refined simplicity, unbending resistance to various circumstances, and also a symbol of freedom.

Refers to the slanted style. Its difference is that trees grow at an angle towards the ground. This style is a good solution for many types. It is a symbol of resistance to the wind or the pull of a tree towards the sun when it grows in the shade.

Did you know? With proper care, a bonsai can grow for centuries, remaining just as tiny.

Refers to cascading styles. Its peculiarity is expressed in creating the illusion of a tree that grows on a steep cliff and resists circumstances with all its might, adapting to the conditions. To do this, choose flexible rocks whose trunk bends well and is easily formed. You can choose between or Is a very simple symbol, demonstrating the plasticity of plants in different conditions

He is a representative of old styles that are incredibly complex. Externally, such a dwarf looks like this: it is devoid of lower branches, and the curved long trunk itself ends at the top with a crown. Its branches are formed in the shape of a calligraphic sign. Symbolizes aerial elevation in the Japanese tradition. For miniatures of this format, coniferous and broad-leaved trees are used.

Are all plants suitable for growing?

Experienced gardeners find ways to adapt and grow successfully various plants V room conditions. Therefore, out of a sense of excitement and interest, they grow bonsai from small seeds. Enthusiasts are not even afraid that this is a long and painstaking process. For beginners, it’s better to take ready-made copies and just maintain them appearance. This is due to the fact that not everyone knows how to grow a bonsai tree from a seed. However, both of them are faced with the question of choosing a plant.

Leafy

In the case of leaf trees, gardeners mainly choose beech, sometimes

Fruit

If you want to grow bonsai using fruit trees, then in this case it will be suitable or

Conifers

Among coniferous trees you can expect a decent variety. As a rule, the ones chosen are Himalayan cedar, Japanese cryptomeria, common or folded thuja, Japanese and European larches.

Features of seed selection

There are some features when choosing seeds. Firstly, seeds must be fresh, no more than two years old. Ideally, they are about a year old. Secondly, the seeds must have the proper level of germination. At home, you can easily create natural ripening conditions. To do this, you need to freeze the seeds in the refrigerator at winter period time. Then, with the first warming, the seeds need to be immersed in warm water and kept for six hours. Next, they are put into a bag and stored at room temperature for three days.

Suitable soil

For proper cultivation Bonsai use a special - heavy, moisture-retaining substrate. The soil is divided into tiny fractions of only 5 mm. Such soil is perfectly breathable and holds a colossal amount of nutrients, which are so necessary for tree growth. This substrate is called akadama. That's just in pure form it is used extremely rarely.

As a rule, a mixture is created based on it, to which sand, clay are added and the soil is placed in small ceramic containers with a large diameter. This form is well suited for growing miniature plants. This is due to the fact that the roots located outside feel great in open space and easily absorb minerals from the air.

Basic landing rules

After three days of “rest”, by the fourth the seeds will swell. This will prove their viability and readiness for planting. Empty copies must be selected and thrown away.

Sprouted seeds must be placed in special pots. They must be completed as follows:

• a mixture of sand and humus in a ratio of 1:2;
• 1 cm akadama.

After all procedures, the seedlings are covered with film, thereby creating Greenhouse effect. Optimal temperature air is about 15 °C.

How to slow down tree growth

Bonsai formation begins approximately in the second or third year from the moment of planting (depending on the circumstances).

However, the question arises - how to slow down the growth process of a new tree.

First of all, the plant needs to be transplanted into a bowl and cut off the roots that grow straight. Priority is given to horizontal roots. Along with straight roots, sick and weak ones are also cut out. In the future, during the next replanting, it will be necessary to trim the roots again.

Another option would be to transplant into soil that is poorly saturated with nutrients. The composition of such soil is quite uniform: loam and rotten leaves. Often coarse sand or small pebbles are added there. Considering that such a substrate provides the minimum needs of the plant, it significantly helps slow growth.

You can also tie the barrel with wire to slow it down and thicken it. They do not wrap the entire length, but only a certain section. Then, when it begins to interfere with the development of your plant, you can remove it and bandage another area. A similar technique can be used when forming side branches. In this case, the wire plays the role of a retainer.

Also, as an option, you can reduce the flow of juices. To do this, it is necessary to cut the wood from time to time different places. To heal and tighten its wounds, the plant will flood the cuts with juice. As a bonus, beautiful swells may appear on the bark.

The last method is not suitable for everyone. It involves pruning branches. It should be done for the first time immediately after the buds appear. in early spring. Cut at the level of two rosettes from the trunk itself. Branches that interfere with each other are also removed. There should be no flowers on the tree during the pruning period. Otherwise, postpone the procedure until flowering is complete.

Important! Only by using any of these techniques will you be able to achieve the well-known miniatureness that is inherent in this art.

When the seeds have already been planted and the first shoots have appeared, they need to be carefully looked after.

Proper care

Bonsai is a tree that needs in care and proper cultivation. First of all, you need to ensure that the soil is moist at all times. Another condition is good air circulation in the soil. This can be achieved in two ways: from time to time open the film slightly or make holes in it. As soon as the first leaves appear, the young seedlings are immediately opened. Then you need to continue to care for it until the number of leaves increases to four. When they reach this mark, the seedlings can be safely transplanted into a ceramic container.

The next step is to trim the main root - leaving only one third of it. needs to be done regularly. The first time the procedure is carried out a month and a half after the picking. Then you need to feed weekly. On initial stage For this purpose, low nitrogen content is used. Subsequently, its percentage is increased. Closer to the beginning of winter, they usually switch to feeding, which is more balanced.

Important! If the plant is sick, its feeding must be stopped.

One more important point when caring for dwarf tree is lighting. To satisfy his need, you need to keep the blinds or curtains constantly open. But this may not be enough. To increase the amount of light, use halogen or fluorescent lamp. Under no circumstances use a fluorescent lamp for this purpose. The lamp should be placed at a height of about half a meter.

Direct Sun rays are destructive to the plant. It should also be protected from radiators and drafts. Excess heat or gusts of air can negatively affect it. If you adhere to these rules, then problems and difficulties should not arise.

Possible difficulties during cultivation

Bonsai requires enormous efforts and painstaking work. Those who encounter this plant for the first time may encounter some difficulties. The first problem is dehydration. At first it is difficult to adjust how much water your tree needs, but if its leaves suddenly turn yellow and begin to fall off, first of all, water it from above, as usual, and then place it in small capacity with water. The plant itself will make up for the deficiency.

The opposite effect may also occur. With this problem, the soil is oversaturated with moisture and covered with moss. In this case, simply move it to another soil and water more sparingly. If you find dead roots when replanting, be sure to cut them off.

Sometimes the following problem arises: for some reason the tree does not absorb water, and it remains on the surface of the soil. This can happen if you have chosen the wrong substrate or if there are infestations in it. First of all, you need to remove the plant and change the soil. Be careful: you must not disturb the roots! If the substrate remains on the roots, everything is fine, it’s better than breaking something. Then place the bonsai in a bowl of water that has been treated. After these measures, it should recover.