Knots of wooden roof structures made of flexible tiles. Technology for laying a soft roof made of bitumen shingles: instructions and video tutorial on installation. Installation of soft tile cornice

Flexible bitumen shingles are quite popular. This is due to its unique performance characteristics. Among famous manufacturers The companies Tegola, Siplast and Shinglas are distinguished. Bituminous shingles are used in almost any climatic conditions.

Tools

Sheets or boards are laid parallel to the ridge and joined on the rafter board. At the same time, make sure that there are no several joints of sheathing sheets of adjacent rows on one board.

Preparatory work

After preparation of the base is completed, a special underlay carpet sand side up. It can be purchased where you buy your shingles. It simultaneously performs two functions: it levels the surface and gives it waterproofing properties. In addition, when using a backing layer, bituminous shingles receive better adhesion to the surface. It is nailed in increments of 20 cm.

Slopes with an inclination angle of up to 30 degrees are completely covered with roofing felt in several layers. In the second case, there is only an overlap with a margin of 150 and 80 mm vertically and horizontally, respectively. The ridge is decorated using special ridge-eaves tiles. It is divided into three parts along the perforation and alternately nailed on both sides at the junction of the slopes. Before the procedure, you should remove the protective film from the material.

Laying bitumen shingles: rules and features

When calculating the required amount of material, it is important to take into account certain nuances. For example, it is intended for roofing coverings whose inclination angle is in the range of 15-85 degrees. The instructions indicate an angle of 45 degrees. Deviation from this indicator leads to an increase or decrease in the amount of tiles consumed. For example, the less, the more material will be required.

Achieving high-quality results is possible only if you follow the basic rules:

• the material is stored in closed packages indoors;
• the lining carpet is stored in a vertical position;
• Manufacturers recommend installation bitumen shingles at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees;
• Before laying the material in the cold season, it is first placed in a heated room (for at least 24 hours).

Soft tiles are laid without using a torch. It is used for bitumen fused roofing. WITH inside material is removed protective film, after which it is laid on the prepared coating. When the outside temperature is high enough, the adhesive surface of the shingles will adhere tightly to the substrate without assistance. In cold weather, a hot air gun is used for a similar effect. The material can be further strengthened using special glue.

Bituminous shingles in different packages may have different shades. Therefore, it is recommended to use separate packaging for each slope. In the case where the slope area is large enough, several packages are used. The elements of the material are mixed, so that the shades are distributed evenly throughout the entire coating.

It is important to remember that when high temperatures ah, the tiles become soft and easily susceptible to mechanical stress (may be deformed). Therefore, in such conditions, roofing work is moved using ladders or other devices.

Fastening material

Every separate element tiles must be secured separately. To do this, use screw or rough nails, as well as staples. The latter are used when bitumen shingles are attached to the base without a backing layer.

Nails must be made of metal pre-treated with anti-corrosion substances. 4 nails are driven into individual shingles at a distance of 2.5 cm from the sides and 14.5 mm from the bottom line of the tile.

The nails are driven in until their heads are at the same level as the shingles. If they protrude, the material laid above may be damaged, and if they are pressed in, moisture will accumulate in the resulting recess, and the fasteners will collapse over time.

The intended purpose of bitumen glue is additional strengthening of material elements in difficult places: the junction of tiles to walls, at the ridge, in valleys. It is also used at low temperatures environment. Canned glue is spread with the help of and squeezed out of the cylinders with a special gun. If the temperature outside is low, then the bitumen glue is preheated (it hardens already at 10 degrees Celsius). The glued sheets are pressed against the base with force.

Gaunts

The first stage is fixing the cornices to the lining layer using nails or screws. The nails are driven in in a checkerboard pattern along the entire length of the plank in 10 cm increments.

After this, the shingles for the eaves are laid on top of the mounted strip. The installation of bitumen shingles depends on its type. Some manufacturers recommend leaving a 1cm margin between the bottom edge of the shingles and the cornice. In other cases, an overhang of 1-1.5 cm of tiles is made above the eaves. Manufacturers often do not provide special eaves shingles. In this case, you should cut off the usual ones and lay out the first line of material from them on the cornice, gluing them end-to-end.

Installation of the material is carried out from the cornice. The shingles are laid from the center line of the slope to the sides (left and right). The second row is laid so that the interval between the lower edges of the cornice row and the second line is 1-2 cm. This will create a visually straight line when viewed from the ground.

If the house whose roof will be covered with bitumen shingles is located in an area characterized by strong wind, then the interval between shingles decreases. This will make the coating more reliable.

How to achieve a beautiful roof?

Knowledge of the intricacies of the material and practical experience are what bitumen shingles require. You can organize it with your own hands attractive design roofs, but for this it is important to understand it design features. For example, when going around protruding roof elements, the interval between adjacent shingles should be a multiple of 1 m. This is done so that subsequent rows can be installed correctly.

Before starting to lay the material, a slope is drawn along the lining layer (bedding) using ordinary chalk, its middle line. In addition, marks are made for every 4 rows of tiles. In the case when there is a chimney or other structural element, vertical lines are marked from them. If the technology is followed, a roof made of bitumen shingles will have an aesthetic and attractive appearance.

Ventilation

To allow air to escape freely from under the roof, holes are made in it, the diameter of which corresponds to the installed aerators. They are secured with nails or glue. After this, tiles are placed on top of their aprons, the ends of which are cut out.

Skates and valleys

At the ridge, the shingles are cut along the ridge line. After a ventilation gap has been made in the ridge, the top edge of the roof is covered with regular or cornice shingles. It is important to remember that bending the shingles without heating them can lead to the formation of cracks in it. The joints between the ridge covering and the roof are covered, that is, they are waterproofed.

It is also important to remember to waterproof the valleys: each shingle that ends up on the gutter is cut and secured to the other side of the gutter using nails or glue.

Bitumen shingles are one of the most popular roofing materials today. It is used to cover simple and complex roofs, the installation process itself is not very complicated. But there are several elements (nodes) on the roof that need to be treated with great attention in terms of correct installation the most bituminous material. These elements:

• Skate;
• Cornice;
• Endova;
• Gable;
• Chimneys and ventilation pipes;
• Dormer windows.

What you need to know so that the installation of bitumen roofing material guarantees high quality coatings and reliability of the entire roof. Let's look at the technologies for installing bitumen shingles in places from the list described above.

Laying bitumen shingles on a ridge

Let's start the conversation with the fact that in all the technology of laying bitumen shingles, there is one material that is laid under the roofing itself. This is the so-called underlayment or carpet. It is made on the basis of bitumen and fiberglass and is roll material 1.0 m wide. Its installation is carried out overlapping adjacent strips. And the main purpose is to level the sheathing, the structure of which is of a continuous type.

When it comes to the roof ridge, you need to understand that this element closes the gap between two roof slopes to prevent moisture from getting under the roof structure. But there is one more nuance here - this is a ventilation gap, with the help of which moist air vapors will be removed from under the roof. Therefore, laying bitumen shingles on a ridge is no different from other roofing materials. That is:

• The usual installation of the underlay is carried out, which is attached to the sheathing with nails; sometimes bitumen glue is used.
• Then bitumen shingles are laid using standard technology.

It is important here not to cover the ventilation gap with both materials. After which the ridge itself, made of metal or plastic, is mounted. To maintain the unity of the roof design, you need to cover the ridge with special plates made of the same material as the base soft roof. The device is simple but effective.

Attention! The edges of the bitumen shingles should extend beyond the mounting holes of the ridge protective element at a distance of 5-10 cm.

There is a design of roofs in which ventilation is provided dormer windows located at the ends of the roof. This means that the ventilation gap device on the ridge may not be used. In this case, the technology for laying bitumen shingles is very different from the previous one.

• The substrate from one roof slope is transferred to the adjacent one, covering the roof ridge. The edge of the substrate is secured with nails, and glue must be used.
• Laying of bitumen shingles is carried out using standard technology, without covering the ridge device.
• Special strips are installed along the ridge gap to cover it. Fastening - nails and glue. Please note that in all cases the glue is applied in a wide strip (5-6 cm).

Laying bitumen shingles on the roof eaves

Everything here is as simple as on a skate. Note that it is from the eaves that the covering of the entire soft roof begins. The tiles are laid end-to-end at a short distance from the eaves strip (approximately 1 cm). Elements are attached roofing carnations in the corners and at the petals (on average 4-8 pieces).

A metal strip (eaves) is installed on top of the roofing material, which is attached to the sheathing through the covering with self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 20-30 cm, the fastening shape is zigzag. The cornice strips are installed overlapping each other with an overlap of 10-12 cm.

Installing bitumen shingles on a gable strip

The end strip is covered with bitumen shingles, as is the entire roof area. That is, laying is done from the center of the plane, moving towards the gables. Usually, one entire tile element does not fit at the edge of the roof; it must be cut with a knife to the required size.

Installation and fastening is the installation of panels overlapping the bottom to the top. In this case, fastening is carried out with nails in the corners and at each shingle. But the very edge of the material must be glued. The glue is applied to the substrate in strips and leveled with a brush to a width of 5 cm. The material is pressed onto the substrate by hand or rolled with a rubber roller. After which on himself roofing material a pediment metal strip is laid, which is attached to the roof with self-tapping screws, just like cornice strip. Be sure to lay the upper element on the lower element with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Installing bitumen shingles on valleys

One of the most important moments in everything installation process. Such roofing units require a special approach. Here we have to take into account the fact that it is on the valleys that the a large number of water. Therefore, there is a need to install a multi-layer structure.

• First, a metal strip is installed and secured on the valley, which follows the shape and structure of the valley, that is, it is angular. The closing width of the roof slopes is at least 30 cm. Attaching to the sheathing is self-tapping screws.
• Laying the substrate along the metal protective element. Fastening - nails and glue. The substrate must completely cover the metal corner strip with entry onto the crate. Fastening is done along the lathing.
• The laid bitumen shingles are trimmed to the shape and angle of the valley. What we mean here is that those panels that will cover the valley to the corner will be trimmed.

Attention! Some manufacturers of bituminous shingles recommend under metal corner element lay an additional layer of underlay, thereby ensuring 100% insulation of the roof. This device increases the cost of roofing.

Laying bitumen shingles at junction points

Let's look at the technology of covering junction areas with bitumen shingles using an example brick chimney rectangular shape. It has four junction points where the two side planes will be sealed equally.

The installation will be done like this:

• A rectangular piece is cut from the underlayment carpet, which will cover the roof plane by 30 cm and part of the pipe to a height of 30 cm. It is cut in width to a size that is the width of the pipe plane and protrusions of 30 cm on each side. Fastening is done with nails and glue simultaneously both to the plane of the roof slope and to the plane of the pipe.
• Asphalt shingles are brought up to the chimney lip and secured to the corners of the shingles.
• Another layer of backing is laid to cover the joint between the tile and the pipe.

Attention! If bituminous shingles are used as roofing material for wooden house, then it is necessary to install a plywood apron around the chimney, onto which all connecting elements will be attached. This simple necessity so that when the house shrinks, the joints of all materials present do not separate.

The last stage is the installation of a metal strip that will cover the substrate, laid and secured to the planes of the chimney pipe. The underlayment and the shingles themselves must be secured with nails and glue.

There are often pipes on the roofs of houses round section. These are ventilation and sewer outlets. They are usually dealt with very simply. For this purpose, special elements are used, which among experts are called caps. They can be made of plastic or special rubber. The caps are attached to the already laid underlayment either with self-tapping screws or nails, or using bitumen glue. Or they all are used in combination.

Here important point- accurately cut the row panel to the shape and size of the rounding of the cap. After which it is laid in place and secured with nails. To increase the tightness of the junction, it is recommended to apply several strips of glue along the flange. It will be better if the glue is spread over the plane of the flange with a brush or spatula.

Snow guards on soft roofs

Are snow retainers needed for soft roofs? The question is not the simplest, because it is believed that bitumen shingles treated with granulate on top are a plane along which snow does not slide down like an avalanche. This is actually true, if we talk about roofs with a not very large slope, no more than 45°. But there are bloods whose slope angle is 60°. Nothing can be guaranteed here.

The connection made in violation of the installation instructions led to roof leakage
"CROWMASTER"
Properly executed connection to the pipe using metal strips

In the bathhouse in question, the roof is made of bitumen (soft) ICOPAL tiles(Finland). When laying the material, the builders paid Special attention the most “weak” places where the roof can leak if installation errors occur. These are pipe connections, penetrations, and eaves overhangs.

One of the most complex units is the junction of the roofing material to a pipe, wall, parapet, etc. The junction unit consists of two unrelated strip elements. They are made from galvanized sheet metal (usually with colored polymer coating: polyester, pural, plastisol). The first (junction strip) is attached to the base of the roof (plywood, OSB) under the roofing carpet. The second (dripper) - to the brick or concrete wall over the roofing material. It is placed in a fine and sealed with bitumen mastic or silicone sealant resistant to atmospheric influences. This method of installing the junction allows you to avoid rupture of the roofing caused by movements in the rafter system of a pipe or wall.

The thickness of the layer and the amount of adhesive must strictly comply with the requirements of the instructions. The principle “more glue - stronger roof” can result in the opposite result: with an excess of bitumen mastic, excessive softening and spreading of the bitumen is possible. Almost every manufacturer of bituminous shingles has developed its own sealing compositions: Shingle Stick, Plastal, Plastal Stick from IKO (Canada), K-36 from KATEPAL (Finland), “Bitustik” from TEGOLA (Italy), “Eureka”, “Rebax- M" and "Fixer" from "TECHNONICOL" (Russia), etc.

Roof overhangs are protected with metal eaves and end strips on top of the lining layer. Metal strips are laid with an overlap of 5 cm and fastened with roofing nails in increments of 10-12 cm, in places of overlap - 3 cm. If there is no strip on the eaves, water will flow under the roof, which will lead to rotting of the starting board.

To seal the passage through the roof of the antenna, outlet fan boner, flagpole, etc. use special passage elements (the widest range of this type of product under the Vilpe trademark was developed by the Finnish company SK-TUOTE OY). For pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm located on a roof made of bitumen tiles, Huopa-Felt passage elements are intended (installed at the stage of installation of the roof under the layer finishing material) and Classic (attached on top of the roofing on finished design). Seals for sealing roof penetrations, made of weather- and ozone-resistant EPDM rubber, have a cone shape. Before installation, they are cut to the required diameter. A galvanized clamp is placed on top. The elastic seal allows natural movement of the antenna, pipe, etc.

The design of the roof of the bathhouse, which we are talking about, does not imply the presence of a valley (a valley formed by the intersection of the roof slopes), which greatly simplified installation. After the junctions, the valley is the second most complex roof assembly. For sealing valleys in roofs made of soft tiles a lining carpet made of modified bitumen 3 mm thick, 100 cm wide and up to 10 m long is used, which is placed in the center of the valley. It is secured at the edges with roofing nails with an enlarged cap. They should be nailed so that the cap is flush with lining layer, and didn't crash into him. After installing the underlayment, they begin laying bitumen shingles on the valley. It can be done in three ways: open, “braided” or closed.

For valley installation open method They use special rolled material for valleys (valley carpet) made of modified bitumen. It has a stone cap on top that is the same color as the base shingles chosen for the roof. After laying the valley carpet, the tiles extending onto it are cut off along two lines drawn with chalk. They are led from the ridge to the eaves, departing 15 cm from the axis of the valley in each direction. You should also cut off a 5-centimeter triangle from the upper corner of the tile sheet to direct water into the valley. Then a 5-centimeter strip of special bitumen sealant is applied to the edge of each tile sheet and the tiles are nailed at a distance of 5 cm from the chalk lines.

A valley made using the interlacing method looks very beautiful (if the installation is done correctly). The shingles are installed over the intersection of the roof slopes. The last sheet of tiles is inserted at least 30 cm onto the opposite plane of the roof and additionally secured with a nail in the upper corner. Before fastening with nails, the tiles are pressed tightly against the valley. The material should be nailed at a distance of at least 15 cm from center line valleys. This method of installing a valley is the most difficult, since it is necessary to take into account the difference in slopes of the slopes.

The closed valley method (with trimming) is suitable for roofs with a slope angle greater than 23°. The first row should be intertwined (extend 25 cm or more onto the plane of the adjacent slope). An additional nail is driven in at the edge of each sheet of tile crossing the valley. After installing the roofing material, draw a line with chalk at a distance of 5 cm from the center line of the valley on the covered slope. Next, tiles are nailed to the second slope of the roof, cut off along the chalk markings and a 5-centimeter triangle is removed from the upper corner of the tile sheet to direct water into the valley. The installation is completed by gluing the edges of each tile sheet adjacent to the valley, bitumen sealant.

Another area of ​​possible roof leaks is located at the installation site dormer window. To ensure the waterproofness of the roofing covering, flashing is used - a system of special gutters located around the perimeter of the window. The flashing is a drainage device that prevents rainwater and snow from entering the junction of the frame and the roof.

Problem areas when installing the roof:

1. Connection to the chimney pipe
2. Endova
3. Installation location of the roof window
4. Ventilation outlet
5. Horse
6. Bevel
7. Eaves overhang

The editors thank the KROVMASTER company for their assistance in preparing the material.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The use of a soft roof allows you to carefully and beautifully protect the roof, attic and attic from precipitation. It is possible to install bitumen shingles without the involvement of specialists. For correct execution work, you just need to study the instructions for the selection, use of materials and their fixation.

Preparation for installation of a roof made of bitumen shingles

The main condition for obtaining a high-quality roof from flexible tiles is to prepare a perfectly flat base. Therefore, after removing the old material, you need to use the usual rafter system nail plywood or OSB. Otherwise, the soft roofing sheets will simply sag and you will have to re-cover the house.

Getting started and laying the first rows

To achieve maximum attic protection or attic floor from precipitation it is recommended to use special substrate. If the roof slope is insignificant (does not exceed 20 degrees), then it is allowed to attach the underlayment only in places where additional elements will be subsequently installed. You should also immediately install metal protective strips for the cornice and facade. After installation of bitumen shingles with your own hands, it is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The eaves layers framing the roof are laid (they can be replaced with the tiles themselves, you just need to carefully trim them). They are fixed over the planks using nails with large flat heads. For additional fixation of the roof, the place where it will be laid is coated with bitumen mastic.
2. The first row of tiles is fixed. It is recommended to take sheets from different sets for this purpose. If they differ slightly, there will be no problems with color differences. The first row should be laid on top of the cornice layers with a slight rise (there should be a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of the end to the tile itself).
3. When fixing the tiles, the conditions for laying them out according to the pattern are observed. The excess parts are simply cut off. The sheets are fastened using nails with a flat head. They ensure reliable clamping of the tiles to the base and prevent damage.

The specified instructions for installing a roof made of flexible bitumen shingles will allow you to quickly and correctly carry out the work and eliminate major errors when laying materials. Additionally, you should view educational photos and video materials that will help you see the process of preparing for installation and the laying of the roofing material itself.

Completing work with flexible bitumen shingles

After laying all layers of tiles, you need to ensure compliance high-quality ventilation roofs. Therefore, it is recommended to install a ridge aerator in its upper part. It is a long bar with internal dividers and foam inserts. This type of roofing made from bitumen shingles eliminates the penetration of moisture under the roof and the danger of wasps and other insects settling in the attic.

On top ridge aerator it is necessary to secure the ridge tiles. It will further protect the aerator and achieve an aesthetic appearance of the roof. After commit ridge tiles You can begin installing the drainage system.

Special requirements for the installation of a roof made of bitumen tiles

A prerequisite when working with flexible roof is to take into account the rules for laying materials near pipes and during a multi-level transition between in separate parts roofs. Modern technology installation of bitumen shingles, use of metal junction strips, passage elements. For example, when transitioning between different levels of the roof, you need to secure the cushioning carpet with a strip, and another layer of carpet should be laid on top of the overlap. Then the installation of the tiles themselves is carried out.

When framing a pipe on the roof, you must initially select a passage element for it (used for round pipes). It will protect the roofing material from exposure to high temperatures and rapid destruction. The laying out and installation of tiles is carried out after cutting them to the shape of the pipe. Similar installation conditions bituminous materials will eliminate problems with preserving them pristine appearance, quality and condition.

DIY installation video of bituminous shingles

NODE 1

1 – truncated initial row of tiles;

2 – first visible row of tiles;

3 – cornice metal apron/gutter (installed with offset ~ 3 cm);

4 – bitumen mastic;

5 – waterproofing membrane(transverse overlap - 200 mm, longitudinal - 100 mm);

7 – fixing nail;

8 – waterproofing overlap zone;

9 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

1. The truncated initial row of tiles is fixed according to bottom edge bitumen mastic, along the upper edge - 4 nails (the axis of the nails is 5 cm below the upper edge of the strip);

NODE 2

3 – fixing nail;

4 – bitumen mastic;

5 – tile cutting line.

UNIT 2a

1 – waterproofing membrane;

2 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

3 – fixing nail;

4 – bitumen mastic.

1. This method of laying a valley is used when the slopes of the slopes forming the valley are equal;

2. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide (50 cm in each direction from the valley axis) is used as a protective lining layer;

UNIT 2b

1 – board (width 20–25 cm);

2 – waterproofing membrane;

3 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) from 9 mm;

4 – fixing nail;

5 – bitumen mastic;

6 – single main element;

7 – double main element.

1. This method of laying a valley is used when the slopes of the slopes forming the valley are equal;

2. When making a valley using this method of laying, it is recommended to compare the angle using a board;

3. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide (50 cm in each direction from the valley axis) is used as a protective lining layer;

KNOT 2v

1 – “Safety Color” waterproofing membrane with a granular protective layer;

2 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) from 9 mm;

3 – fixing nail;

4 – bitumen mastic;

5 – tile cutting line.

1. A waterproofing membrane 1 m wide (50 cm in each direction from the valley axis) is used as a protective lining layer;

NODE 3

1 – the last row tiles (brought to the line of the ridge, the protruding part is bent over the ridge and fixed on the opposite slope);

2 – cut out ridge element;

3 – fixing nail;

4 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots.

NODE 4

1 – gutter;

2 – the gutter fastening hook is long (installation step 0.3/0.6 m for copper/steel, respectively);

3 – apron S14 cornice, development 20 cm (installed with offset ~3 cm);

4 – waterproofing membrane (transverse overlap - 200 mm, longitudinal overlap - 100 mm);

5 – bitumen mastic;

6 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

7 – frontal board;

8 – a 50x50 mm block, installed along the rafters in increments of 0.3 m to provide the necessary ventilation gap between the sheathing and the insulation;

9 – rafter beam;

10 – drainage funnel;

11 – vertical axis funnels.

NODE 5

1 – pediment apron S5, opening 20 cm;

2 – fixing clamp (installation step 30 cm);

3 – bitumen mastic;

4 – fixing nail;

5 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

6 – cut sheet of bitumen shingles;

9 – “wind” board;

10 – auxiliary block.

Note: The upper corner of the tile sheet that fits the gable apron is cut at an angle of 60° (50 x 30 mm).

UNIT 6b

Installation of single aprons connecting the roof to the wall

1 – S6 wall-mounted apron, 15 cm wide;

2 – wedge-shaped fillet block;

3 – silicone sealant;

4 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

5 – fixing nail;

6 – waterproofing membrane;

7 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

8 – self-tapping screw with a protective decorative cap;

9 – cut out element covering the corner;

10 – bitumen mastic.

Note: This option for arranging connections can be used if there is no likelihood of movement of the roof structure (i.e. after shrinkage of the house) and is not used for arranging roof connections to brick pipes having a separate foundation.

UNIT 7

1 – snow retainer;

2 – fixing nail/screw;

3 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

4 – the base for the tiles is oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

Note: It is recommended to seal the fastening hole and the head of the nail/screw with bitumen mastic.

NODE 8

1 – hole for the aerator 11 x 23 cm, cut in the solid wooden base of the roof;

2 – aerator base;

3 – aerator cover;

4 – fixing nail;

5 – bitumen mastic;

6 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

1. The “Special” aerator has an air outlet area of ​​132 cm2 and is installed no further than 50 cm from the ridge line;

2. Cover hole 1 with aluminum insect screen 17 x 29 cm.

UNIT 8a

Installation of the “Standard” aerator (for slope slopes of more than 60 degrees)

1 – hole for the aerator 32 x 7 cm, cut in a solid wooden base roofs;

2 – aerator base;

3 – material placed on the aerator cover;

4 – fixing nail;

5 – bitumen mastic;

6 – thermoadhesive self-adhesive bitumen dots;

7 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

1. The “Standard” aerator has an air outlet area equal to 138.6 cm2 and is installed no further than 50 cm from the ridge line;

2. Cover hole 1 with aluminum insect screen 38x20 cm.

UNIT 9a

1 – rafter beam;

2 – block 50x50 mm;

3 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more;

4 – insulation;

5 – vapor diffusion membrane “Difbar”;

6 – aluminum mesh against insects, width 20 cm;

8 – apron S8 of the ridge aerator, development 5 cm.

1. It is recommended to install a metal pediment apron S5, 20 cm wide, at the ends (“gables”) of the ventilation ridge;

2. This option Ventilation ridge devices are recommended for buildings located in forests, lowlands, and in areas with dense buildings.

UNIT 10

2 – waterproofing membrane, size 1x1 m;

3 – fixing nail;

4 – bitumen mastic;

5 – base for tiles: oriented strand board (OSB 3) or high moisture-resistant plywood (FSF) with a thickness of 9 mm or more.

Stage I: Draw the internal and outer contour pass-through element. Cut a hole in the solid base of the roof along the inner contour of the passage element.

Stage II: Fix the passage element on a solid base using nails (15 cm pitch) and bitumen mastic. Apply bitumen mastic to outer surface pass-through element.

Stage III: Lay the tiles. Install the outlet onto the gate of the pass-through element, check that it is installed vertically and secure it with the four self-tapping screws included in the delivery kit.

1. Bitumen mastic applied in strips 2-3 cm wide with an interval of 1.5-2 cm; layer thickness no more than 0.5-1 mm;

2. The antenna output seal cone is cut to the outer diameter; The antenna mast is secured with a metal clamp.

UNIT 10a

Installation of ventilation, sewer and antenna outlets on a finished roof

1 – pass-through element for ventilation, sewer and antenna outputs;

2 – bitumen mastic;

3 – self-tapping screw.

Stage I: Install the passage element on finished roof and outline along the inner contour. Cut the hole according to the outlined outline. Coat the installation site of the element with bitumen mastic.

Stage II: Press the passage element tightly and secure it to the base of the roof with self-tapping screws 3. Ventilation, antenna and other outlets are attached to the passage element with the self-tapping screws included in the delivery set.