Tool · Other · Facade tinted plaster. Decorative plaster Bark beetle.

Facade tinted plaster. Decorative plaster Bark beetle.

home Decorative plaster serves as an excellent alternative to traditional wallpaper. Initially it has white or grey colour

, which allows homeowners to show their imagination and create an interior in an original style using paint.

Which paint to choose

For finishing facades, decorative plasters “bark beetle”, “American” or “fur coat” are used, which are most often painted in one color. Acrylic, silicone and silicate coatings are suitable for painting them. They are resistant to moisture and, unlike oil and alkyd paints, create a vapor-permeable film on the surface. Facade paints tolerate temperature changes well and reliably protect the plaster from precipitation. They are sold in the form of a white composition, which is tinted in a special machine or independently in accordance with personal preferences. Consumption different types

paints for decorative plaster are slightly different. For a single-layer coating with acrylic paint you will need approximately 170-200 g/m², silicate paint - 150-300 g/m².

When working indoors, use water-based, acrylic or latex paints. The water-based emulsion requires a two-layer application, after which the plaster acquires a matte surface. Acrylic coatings are used mainly in rooms with increased level humidity - bathrooms or kitchens. They are more wear resistant than water-based paint

, therefore they are also used for finishing textured plaster in corridors. Latex paints technical characteristics

practically no different from acrylic. They are universal and fit well on any base, including cement and gypsum textured plaster. From a technical point of view, the choice of any of these paints is not fundamentally important - the range of shades allows you to realize a variety of design ideas

, therefore, customers mainly focus on the price of coverage. The only thing you should pay attention to when painting the facade of a building is whether the paint is suitable for exterior use.

Technologies for painting decorative plaster

  • There are several common ways to paint decorative plaster:
  • tinting;
  • in one color;
  • in several shades;
  • dry brush;

blur.

  • roller - the length of the pile is selected depending on the texture of the surface;
  • brushes of different widths;
  • paint tray.

For painting surfaces large area Convenient to use a spray gun. This significantly improves the speed and quality of work. Before you start painting, you must wait until the plaster layer has completely dried, and then treat it with a primer. deep penetration, otherwise the paint may swell and crack.

Tinting

The simplest method of painting plaster, used to obtain a base shade. Decorative plaster is sold in the form of a white or gray colors, which is tinted by adding a coloring pigment. Its quantity depends on the required color saturation. The color is added to the container with the plaster and mixed vigorously until it acquires a uniform color.

The advantage of this method is that the plaster layer has the same color throughout its entire thickness and, in case of small chips and scratches, they will be almost invisible. In addition, after drying, the plaster already has color and the need for additional painting work disappears.

Painting in one color

Another simple way is to paint the plaster with one color. Painters also call it “one pass”. The paint is applied in an even layer using a roller or spray gun, making sure that all the depressions and protrusions of the plaster are painted over. Then the excess paint, in the form of smudges, is collected with a brush.

When working with a roller, painting is done in vertical stripes. Each subsequent strip is rolled with an overlap of several centimeters over the previous one. To uniformly paint the wall with a wide brush, the coating is applied first with vertical movements, then overlapped with horizontal ones. You can also first paint the wall with a thick layer of paint with a brush, and then distribute it evenly over the surface with a roller.

The one-pass painting method can be used on all types of decorative plaster.

Painting in several shades

This method allows you to add expressiveness to plaster painted in one color. First, the paint is applied in one pass, as described in the previous method. Smudges on the wall and excess paint accumulated in the recesses of the plaster are carefully removed with a dry brush or roller.

To apply the second tone, use a roller with a foam coat or a sponge. The roller is rolled in the tray so that it remains thin layer paints. After this, they lightly walk over the protruding parts of the decorative plaster, as a result of which the recesses on the surface remain in their original color, and the protrusions acquire a different shade. Toning of protruding parts can also be done on plaster painted using the tinting method.

Dry brush painting

This method is similar to the previous one, only the protruding parts are painted with a brush. The initial painting is done by tinting or in one pass. Then with a semi-dry brush they go over the tops of the relief. Basically, the second paint is chosen lighter than the main color. To give the surface expressiveness, gold, silver and bronze colors are used, and glitter is also used.

Lightening plaster by washing

The method is suitable for indoor use. At first small area surfaces are painted in one pass with diluted paint on water based. After this, move the damp sponge in a circular motion over the surface, blurring the paint. As a result, the paint in the recesses of the coating remains untouched and contrasts against the general background of the wall. You can add an accent by additionally tinting the protruding areas of the surface with a different shade using one of the above methods.

There is another common method to create a contrasting surface without using a sponge. To do this, the wall painted in the same tone is allowed to dry completely during the day. Then, manually or using a power tool, sand the surface of the wall, removing a thin layer of protruding areas along with the paint. This operation can also be performed with a spatula, working “scraping”.

Creating the effect of Venetian plaster

IN classic version Venetian plaster, imitating the surface of natural stone, contains chips of marble, granite or malachite. The cost of coating is quite high, but this method allows you to create an effect Venetian plaster I only use gypsum mixture, paint and glaze coating:

  • The wall is painted in one pass with a long-nap roller so that all the recesses of the plaster are filled with paint.
  • The second shade is paint with a metallic sheen. It is diluted with a universal primer or other transparent base in a 1:1 ratio.
  • Lightly move a small foam roller over protruding areas of the terrain. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no streaks remain on the surface.
  • At the next stage, the plaster is coated with acrylic varnish. It is diluted 30% with water and glitter is added to create a shimmering effect at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of varnish. The resulting mixture is treated with the surface of the plaster using a foam roller. While working, the varnish must be stirred regularly, since glitter tends to settle to the bottom.

You can experiment and add other components to acrylic varnish, achieving a variety of effects and shades.

Additional compositions for processing decorative plaster

Do appearance plaster more effective and create additional protective layer can be done using wax, varnish and various glazes.

Wax creates a protective, waterproof coating that gives the surface a shine and bright color. Suitable for any type of plaster, looks especially impressive on Venetian. Both transparent and colored formulations are available for sale. Before application, dust must be thoroughly removed from the base. Plaster coating is done in one go without stopping. The setting time of the wax is about 4 hours; during this period, the resulting flaws can still be corrected.

Varnish is a single layer topcoat. Creates a durable water-repellent film on the surface that strengthens the plaster, protects it from damage and, most importantly, makes the appearance of the finish more attractive. Used for indoor work acrylic varnishes, outside - on organic solvents.

Before work, mix the composition thoroughly, add glitter or coloring pigment if necessary. The coating is done in one layer using a foam roller. Approximate consumption - 50-80 g/m².

Glaze - a glazing translucent composition for finishing coating paints that allow you to make smooth color transitions. Suitable for application on smooth and relief surface both indoors and outdoors. Work can be carried out at temperatures below +10°C. The coating is applied with a sponge or a special mitten using strokes.

Among all finishing materials decorative finishing occupies one of the leading places, since application is a fairly simple task, after which you can get a spectacular wall surface.

In its structure, this material is a paste-like mass, which has various ways application to walls or ceilings. It found its application as a basis or as self-finishing. But in order to understand the principles of application, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the advantages and methods of installation, and consider the main methods of applying decorative plaster.

Structural plaster: features

This type has a heterogeneous granular composition, which includes additives in the form of granules or fine-grained pebbles, as well as pieces of quartz. This finishing is done on cement lime base from special synthetic latex. It is also diluted with water or organic solvents.

For plastering inside the building the most suitable option are mixtures prepared on a water basis. They do not contain foreign impurities with a smell, which means that when finishing the apartment there is no need to remove all residents from it.

Main advantage structural plaster- plasticity, which allows you to work with it very easily. The work is simplified due to the fact that the solutions are already sold ready-made and are not required before use. special training. It goes on sale in iron containers or buckets weighing 15-25 kg.

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Laying structural decorative plaster

Before starting to apply the mixture, preparatory measures are carried out. It is fundamentally not important to achieve evenness, since the composition allows you to hide small defects. A cleaned and dried surface is required. After cleaning, the working area is strengthened with a primer. It is necessary to create an intermediate layer that performs protective function and prevents the entry of dampness, thereby protecting the walls and the laid mixture from moisture. The plaster can be applied after the primer layer has completely dried.

The solution must be applied with a trowel or wide spatula. It is laid in one layer, while making circular or straight movements. The ridges protruding from under the spatula form a pattern. The texture of the pattern depends on the installation methods and additives in the mixture. Structural decorative plaster sets and gains strength after 3 hours, and complete hardening occurs in almost a week. After this, the coating must be sanded and the dust must be removed with a damp cloth or sponge. A similar mixture and application method are used for plaster made from mineral, latex or silicate solutions.

This decorative plaster is considered durable and is not subject to mechanical damage and moisture, has an aesthetic appearance and is made from safe components. In this regard, it is in great demand for finishing both inside and outside.

The texture of the pattern will depend on the size of the grains. To give the walls a sandy effect, grains with a fraction of about 0.3 mm are used, and to create raw stone, grains of 1.5 mm are used. The most popular “bark beetle” is achieved with a grain size of 2.0 mm. When using a fraction of 3 mm, the walls take on the appearance of the bark of a centuries-old tree.

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Tinting structural plaster

The initial color of this plaster is white. You can give the coating a variety of shades in several ways:

  1. Add pigment to ready-made composition, but with this method there is a possibility of not achieving the desired color.
  2. When purchasing plaster, you can contact a specialist who will carry out professional tinting.
  3. This type of decorative plaster can be coated with color after the composition has completely dried.

To give the surface different shades, color is applied and rubbed with a rubber sponge, and if there is a desire to create abrasions, then go over with a damp foam sponge. After the color has dried, the walls are treated with wax.

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Textured decorative plaster

Types of decorative plaster: smooth, textured, embossed.

Using a textured finish, you can create a surface with an extraordinary relief texture. If we compare structural and textured plasters, the difference between them is relative, but there is one factor that adds complexity to the design, the components of the composition and the tools used. When performing textured plaster, you can give it a look that imitates wood, crumpled paper, hewn or chopped stone, natural wood. This coating gives the surface originality and style.

The advantage of such plaster is that it suits any interior and design solutions you can choose installation methods. This helps give it a finished and harmonious look. The texture mixture includes lime flour. And the special qualities depend on additives consisting of granite or marble chips, as well as various fibers. The basis can be polymer compounds that give the surface a more textured texture and do not crack when drying.

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Technological process of application

Unlike other plasters, textured finishing does not require special preparation of the base, since its relief well hides defects on the walls where the material is laid. In this regard, the following preparatory work is being carried out:

  1. Clean the wall surface from paint coatings or other residues finishing material. If the surface requires this, it must be treated with a solvent to remove oil stains, after which the treated areas must be washed with soapy water.
  2. Next, the wall structure is covered with a primer.
  3. If necessary, the cracks are expanded and filled with gypsum or cement mortar.
  4. Lay the base layer, which is used as acrylic primer. But it is not applicable for all types of plasters. For certain types of textured composition, other options are sometimes used, for example, deep penetration putty-primer.

Before laying the textured composition, a test is carried out on a small piece of the wall to select the appropriate consistency of the composition. If the composition is prepared according to technology, then it should not be liquid and flow from the surface, but thickness is also not welcome.

To apply the solution and create texture, these will be useful (any application method requires tools):

  • set of spatulas;
  • metal iron;
  • large porous sponge;
  • unnecessary solution container;
  • bucket with water.

When performing textured finishing, you need the help of a partner: one applies the solution, the other needs to quickly form the decorative texture.

The mixture should be applied using a spatula in a uniform layer, the thickness of which should be about 2-3 mm, and for a coarse-grained composition it should be equal to the cross-section of the grain.

On this moment modern market offers many various types finishing, but the so-called “Bark Beetle” textured finish has broken all records in popularity. A simple design reminiscent of wood eaten away by a bark beetle can be found anywhere in our great homeland. Today we will talk about the reasons for such popular recognition, and also dwell in detail on how decorative bark beetle plaster is made with your own hands.

What is a bark beetle and why they love it

Decorative plaster with the texture of bark beetles became widespread about 10–15 years ago. At the moment it is available in two forms, these are universal polymer compositions ready for use and dry mixtures on a mineral basis.

The meaning here is simple: granules of a certain fraction are added to the general plaster mass, which leave such an original pattern on the walls.

The people loved her for a number of advantages.

  • . As a result, “Bark Beetle” can be applied to almost any surface from a concrete wall to drywall or foam plastic; Environmentalists also have no complaints about this cladding.
  • It can be used with equal success for both façade and; As for temperature conditions, durability and resistance to the vagaries of weather , That this type
  • cladding can be used throughout the entire territory of our great country, from sunny Krasnodar to harsh Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky; Professionals know that most facade plasters there is one unpleasant minus

capable of independently inflicting “Bark Beetle”. In fact, this is what will be discussed further.

Covering technology

Advice: as a rule, it is much easier to work with ready-made polymer compositions, but with “Bark Beetle” the situation is exactly the opposite. For a person who does not have fundamental knowledge and skills in plastering, it is better to take a dry mixture.

Since this type of composition belongs to the finishing direction, the base for it must be prepared carefully. The least worries will be with smooth concrete or well-leveled cement. Here it is enough just to prime the surface.

Some craftsmen claim that the cement-containing base can simply be moistened with plenty of water. This may be true, but I still prefer to use primer; it’s cheaper than having to redo everything later.

For interior work For drywall, one primer, even a very good one, will not be enough, because whatever one may say, there is paper on top. After priming, you will need to apply a thin, about 1 - 2 mm, reinforcing layer of putty, and it is better to use putty increased strength, for example, the German Fugenfüller.

If the bark beetle is applied during damp room or in the kitchen, then you need to take the appropriate putty for arranging the base. Dry mixtures based on cement are cheaper, Ceresit is the leader among them, but a novice master is better off spending money on a ready-made universal one. polymer composition. In dry, heated rooms, you can save money by using regular gypsum putty.

But most often this type of decorative plaster is used for arranging foam plastic. Inexpensive, proven insulation, covered with high-quality bark beetle, can last for several decades. And to maintain the proper appearance, it is enough to renew the paint once every 3-4 years.

Preparing the base here is not much more difficult. When the insulation is installed, fiberglass is attached to the foam. plaster mesh and all this is covered with soil containing quartz dust. Theoretically, you can continue to apply “Bark Beetle,” but the instructions require covering the mesh with a thin layer of starting putty for exterior work and it is better not to disturb it.

Important: decorative plasters, unlike ordinary ones, are not intended for leveling walls. Their destiny is to protect and decorate the surface. Therefore, no matter what base you have to work with, it must first of all be smooth.

As for the choice of primer, although there are many offers on the market, there is an immutable law of the builder - it is better to take all putties, primers, plasters and other materials from one manufacturer, choose a brand and stick to it. After all, within the same line, products will be 100% compatible.

From personal experience, I can recommend Ceresit ST16 primer. In addition to deep penetration, it also contains quartz sand. The consumption here ranges from 150 g/m², and at normal humidity and an average temperature of 20 - 25ºC it dries within half an hour. By the way, the same composition can be used to preserve surfaces on winter period, if the finishing is not completed.

Important: in view of the fact that the decorative layer is often made quite thin so that the primer does not show through, it is better to tint it to match the final color of the cladding.

Mixing the composition

As already mentioned, the compositions are ready for use, such as Ceresit CT 63 and dry. So we will work with dry ones, it is much simpler and cheaper. Mixing the solution is not difficult, but there is one caveat. The bark beetle sets quite quickly, so the solution needs to be prepared without fanaticism, exactly as much as you can work out in half an hour or use an assistant to constantly knead and add.

We will stir with a construction mixer, and if you don’t have one, you will need to buy a mixing attachment for an electric drill, since its price is affordable. The speed is set to low or medium, we are not whipping a cocktail and we don’t need foam.

Traditional technology. Initially, the container is filled required quantity clean water temperature is about 20ºС. After that, a running mixer is immersed in it and the dry mixture is gradually added. The consistency of the finished mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

The solution is considered ready when there are no lumps left in it. But they cannot work yet; the solution must mature. To do this, leave it alone for 10 - 15 minutes and stir it again before using.

Important: there is no need to tint the solution at the preparation stage. The composition is prepared in portions and it is almost impossible to accurately guess the amount of dye in each portion. As a result, at the finish line your wall will resemble a military camouflage suit. Tinting at the start is only permissible in ready-made polymer mixtures and then requires professionalism.

Application of the composition

In theory, the question of how to make decorative bark beetle plaster is extremely simple. The plaster is applied to the wall with a wide spatula. Next, it is leveled and rubbed using a plastic or wooden trowel; many people prefer to use a trowel, and some professionals even use a plaster trowel for leveling.

The tool is pressed against the wall and moved in the desired direction, the excess stuck and squeezed out is removed with a spatula. In this case, mineral granules slide over the surface, leaving characteristic grooves.

The whole difficulty is to clearly maintain the thickness of the layer; it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the granules. If the layer is too thick, the texture will not be drawn, and if you overdo it and rub the plaster too thin, the base will be visible, which is also considered a defect. Universal recipe doesn't exist here, you just need to get better at it, so start somewhere in the far corner.

These compounds set fairly quickly and, if you work alone, you will have to build the surface in stages. There's one here important point- overlapping dried and fresh finishes is strictly prohibited. In this case, even after staining, the overlap areas will be visible.

But there is a way out, and it’s quite simple. You need to decide in advance on the size of the square to be processed. After this, you should stick it around the perimeter working area masking tape and you can start applying. The solution is applied and rubbed with a slight overlap onto the tape and upon completion of the work, while the composition is still wet, the tape is removed.

As a result, you get a clear boundary. While you are preparing the next portion, the plaster on the wall will harden and you will need to cut from the top finishing stick a strip of tape again, it will protect against applying fresh solution to already dried one. As a result, plastering will be carried out clearly end-to-end and if everything is done correctly, these joints will be invisible.

Advice: in general, you should try to finish the wall in one day, so as not to make connections. To do this, it is better to get a partner. One person will apply and level the mortar with a trowel, while the other will trowel the wall to give it its final look.

Main types of finishes

In addition to the fact that the mixtures are dry and ready for application, types of decorative bark beetle plaster are also divided according to the method of applying the pattern, or more precisely according to the direction in which the furrows will lie.

  • The simplest and, as a result, widespread is vertical method applying and grouting plaster. Here the trowel moves from top to bottom and back. For a beginner master, this is the best option;
  • The second most popular is the horizontal arrangement of lines. Although these patterns are similar, horizontal grouting requires more experience;
  • The diagonal grout called “Rain” is considered the most difficult. Technologically, the process itself does not cause much difficulty; the whole problem is to maintain the same direction of the lines throughout the entire plane;
  • The texture called “Cork” or, as it is also called “Lamb”, is made with circular movements of a trowel and is one of the simplest methods of arrangement. Moreover, the circular, chaotically applied furrows most closely resemble a natural pattern;

  • The “Carpet” finish, as shown in the diagram presented, is applied using parallel-perpendicular movements of the tool. The result is a mixed pattern of horizontal and vertical lines;
  • The so-called “Map of the World” is already closer to design delights. This texture is most often arranged in interior spaces. Its essence lies in the fact that first a background is made from lines in one direction, and when it dries, overlays are applied to the wall using stencils different shapes, colors and textures.

Important little things

Although such cladding ultimately perfectly withstands all the vagaries of the weather, installing it in the July sun is extremely undesirable. The fact is that in direct sunlight the solution will dry too quickly and, as a result, crack.

The same applies to excessively windy weather. In general, if work is carried out in the summer, then it is better to carry it out in the afternoon, when the heat has already subsided.

The dyeing process is considered an important point. Although a thin layer of plaster dries in 2–3 days, the wall should be painted no earlier than after 2–3 weeks. Best suited for this purpose acrylic paints for outdoor work.

The glaze lacquered coating interspersed with mica particles looks quite original. True, this is not for everyone, because in sunny weather your house will shine like a Christmas tree.

Tip: two-layer painting is popular now. First, a darker layer of paint is applied with a fur roller. And when it dries, apply light paint on top with a smooth roller. This way the textured furrows will be more clearly visible.

The price of goods and the cost of work is a separate sore subject. As for the price of the material, it naturally depends on the brand of the manufacturer. In economy class, Monolit and SWISS are leaders. The average price niche is occupied by IN-TECK FASADE and Brozex. The elite segment of the market is currently represented by the Ceresit and Bergauf brands.

Average table of work costs for some regions.

When choosing a mixture, the consumption of decorative bark beetle plaster per 1 m2 plays an important role in the decision making. Here everything depends, first of all, on the size of the mineral granules:

  • Among domestic producers in economy class it is believed that if the grain diameter is about 2 mm, then the solution will take about 2 kg/m²;
  • At 2.5 mm, the mixture will need 3 kg;
  • And for large granules, more than 3 mm, the consumption ranges from 3.5 to 5 kg.

In the elite segment of the market, not only prices and quality differ, but also the consumption of the material itself. Here, mixtures with fine grains under the “XS” brand use about 700 g/m². For medium size grain “XL” you will need about 1700g/m². A layer with coarse grain “XXL” will require 2 kg/m².

Conclusion

To order the service, you can place an Order for tinting by phone or on the website - it is not necessary to come to the construction center.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the Tinting Rules, compliance with which will help you complete the service in a timely and high-quality manner.

Rules for tinting

1. Materials that you can tint are marked with special pictograms in our catalog.

2. The cost of tinting is 19 rubles per liter.

3. High-quality tinting service will take up to 10 minutes for one can.

4. To ensure high-quality tinting, decorative plasters and paints are tinted only on the equipment of the corresponding manufacturer and using original Fans and Albums.

The same color can be perceived differently on surfaces with different textures.

Paint color matching should be verified against the original Fan Paint Sample.

The color matching of decorative plaster should be checked according to the original Sample of decorative plaster in the Album (color matching should be checked only after the plaster coating has dried).

6. We guarantee the quality of tinting only those paints and decorative plasters whose tinting is permitted by the manufacturer.

ATTENTION: tinted products cannot be returned or exchanged.

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  • ROCKdecorsil S 1.5mm - decorative, silicone, piece, granular.

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Five questions about the construction of plaster facades

Facade - business card Houses. Where if not in exterior decoration, can you show all your creativity and imagination? There are many decoration options: siding, tiles, facing brick. But one of the most attractive has always been and remains plaster. It allows you to create a unique play of colors and textures and implement a variety of style solutions.

At the request of the developer of a multi-storey building or the owner of a cottage, the building can turn into either a wonderful mansion of the mid-19th century, or into a bright, laconic scandinavian house, or into an amazing art object. However, it is worth considering that the technology for installing plaster (or, as they are also called, “wet”) facades is quite labor-intensive. The property owner is faced with a number of issues that require certain knowledge and increased attention. Competent answers to them will help create beautiful facade, which will delight the eye for many years.

Question one. What does the term “plaster system” mean?
The plaster system resembles a multi-layer “clothing” for the home. It includes:

1) primer for construction base;
2) glue for attaching thermal insulation;
3) insulation boards;
4) facade dowels for additional fastening;
5) reinforcing adhesive composition;
6) fiberglass mesh;
7) primer primer;
8) decorative plaster;
9) facade paint(if necessary).

Obviously, the characteristics of the entire system depend on the quality of each component, and it is important not to make a mistake when choosing the main components of a “wet” facade.

Question two. Which insulation do you prefer?
In plastering systems, stone wool or expanded polystyrene are usually used as thermal insulation. It should be noted that most polystyrene foam materials have a low vapor permeability coefficient 1 , that is, the house will be “not breathing,” which may require the installation of powerful and expensive ventilation systems. In addition, polystyrene foam is a combustible material. 2 , therefore, in accordance with current standards, when using it, it is recommended to make fire-resistant cuts from non-combustible insulation at the frames of windows and doors. This solution, by the way, will partially improve the vapor permeability of the structure.

One of the most popular materials is stone wool. This is a product of natural origin, created on the basis of basalt rocks. Stone wool is environmentally friendly, and its fibers can withstand temperatures up to 10,000C, which allows the thermal insulation layer to act as a barrier to the spread of fire. Over the years, such insulation does not shrink or deform, which makes it one of the most durable on the market - for example, ROCKFASAD slabs from ROCKWOOL will last at least 50 years 3 . The product was created specifically for the installation of “wet” facades in private houses: the material has optimal density for applying plaster, provides high heat and sound insulating properties and is bioresistant, i.e. not suitable as food for rodents and insects and does not promote the growth of fungus and mold.

Question three. How to select system components?
All materials included in the “wet” facade system must be combined in their characteristics: thermal expansion, water absorption, frost resistance and vapor permeability. This is the only way to create a reliable and durable plastering system. Otherwise, if incompatible components are used, the facade may begin to quickly deteriorate, requiring additional costs for repairs.

To avoid problems, construction industry experts advise giving preference to certified system solutions from one supplier. These, for example, include the ROCKFACADE system from ROCKWOOL. It consists mainly of mineral components (thermal insulating boards made of stone wool, cement-sand adhesive and reinforcing mixtures, water-dispersion paints, etc.), which ensures the non-flammability of the system, high vapor permeability and no restrictions in use.
On the ROCKWOOL website there is an online calculator for calculating the ROCKFACADE system. It allows you to take into account all the features of the cottage: the shape of the windows and doorways, their dimensions, the number of corners of the building, the presence of balconies and loggias, etc. After calculations, the program will show how many and what components are needed to construct the facade.

Question four. Which plaster do you prefer?
The market offers solutions for a wide variety of projects. A hint table with basic types of plasters will help you choose the right one (see note at the end of the article S hop-Facade, regarding the table below):

Question five. In what order should the work be carried out?
Installation wet facades- a process that requires professionalism, great care and thoroughness of compliance technological regulations. In particular, all work is carried out at temperatures not lower than +50C and not higher than +300C. During the installation of the “wet” system, it will be necessary to protect it from precipitation and direct sun rays: For this purpose, scaffolding with a special mesh is installed. Also, before installing the facade, internal “wet” processes must be carried out, roofing, filling window and door openings, securing brackets for air conditioners, video cameras, etc. When the preparation is completed, you can begin the main work.

First you need to prepare the base: it must be strong and clean, the surface of walls with unevenness more than ±10 mm must be leveled;
- After preparing the base, the base profile is fixed. It is necessary as a leveling element when gluing insulation, as well as to protect the lower part of the slab from external influences. Base profile mounted at a height of at least 60 cm above ground level;
- Thermal insulation boards made of stone wool are mounted with offset seams (type brickwork). Before applying the bulk of the adhesive to the insulation, it is necessary to rub a small amount of the composition into the surface of the slab to ensure the best adhesion 4 ;
- After the glue has dried (about three days), mechanical fastening dowels: at least 6 pcs. per square meter;
- In parts of the building that are particularly exposed to various loads ( external corners, tops of openings, junction of slopes to blocks of openings, etc.), special profiles are installed for additional reinforcement;
- A base coat is applied to the insulation using a trowel with 10x10 mm teeth plaster mortar, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. The canvases must have an overlap of at least 10 cm. The mesh is embedded so that it is in the upper third of the plaster layer;
- As soon as the base plaster layer has dried, the surface of the facade can be primed. After the primer has dried, decorative plaster is applied with the smooth side of the trowel. Depending on the texture, a decorative pattern is created on it using a plastic float. The total minimum thickness of protective and decorative and base layers is 6 mm;
- If necessary, the surface is painted with paint after applying decorative plaster.

Of course, it is better to trust the installation of “wet” facades to professionals, but nevertheless, the homeowner should know what materials to choose and how to carry out the work correctly. This will help you find mutual language with representatives construction organization and track each stage of facade installation. And then the cottage will definitely become a source of pride for its owner.

Irina Orlova

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1) Appendix “T” to SP 50.13330.2012 “Thermal protection of buildings”
2) For example, produced in accordance with GOST 15588-2014. Interstate standard. Polystyrene foam thermal insulation boards. Technical specifications"
3) Subject to compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations related to installation technology and operating conditions
4) There are quite a lot of rules for installing insulation, so manufacturers produce special brochures that reflect all the intricacies of installation. For example, more information about the installation of insulation systems with a thin outer plaster layer of ROCKFACADE can be found in the Album facade system from the ROCKWOOL company, posted on the company’s website in the “Library” section (www.rockwool.ru/library/brochures)

Note S hop-Facade: apparently a typo:

Mineral plaster - “stands up well to moisture.” Good moisture resistance mineral plaster, can only if covered with paint. Without a paint coating, mineral plaster easily absorbs moisture, as it is made with a cement binder.

Acrylic - “short service life” is a dubious conclusion.

Silicate - “self-cleaning” - doubtful; this is usually characteristic of materials of the “silicone” group.