How to prune a tree so it grows up. How to prune trees yourself in your dacha or garden. Using special cutters

With the arrival of spring, the time comes for pruning the green inhabitants of our gardens: we need to thin out their crowns and shorten the branches. However, gardeners often go to extremes and prune during this period even those plants with pruning that are best waited until summer or autumn, such as early flowering shrubs. Therefore, pruning must be approached competently.

You can learn the basic rules of pruning from the article Pruning trees and shrubs, but ornamental trees and shrubs have certain specific care.

When pruning ornamental trees, we, first of all, We strive to give their crowns the appropriate shape and maintain it longer . We trim plants in hedges so that the foliage is dense and there are no holes in the crowns. Thanks to the regular use of pruning shears, we achieve fruit trees and berry bushes especially rich harvest. Decorative shrubs. We also prune climbing and container plants primarily for lush flowering. If the plant has decorative bark, then by pruning you can once again emphasize the beauty of young shoots, because over time the color of the bark of old branches becomes faded.

In addition, pruning is intended maintain the natural shape of the crown of the green inhabitants of the garden and regulate their size . But in any case, it is necessary to clearly understand that a too large shrub or an already mature tree, even after very strong pruning, will not turn into an attractive one. dwarf plant! And, of course, do not forget that regular, especially spring, pruning of plants contributes to a more intensive appearance of new shoots.

The use of a saw and pruning shears helps to rejuvenate plants; thanks to pruning, they can regain lost strength. In rare cases, trees and shrubs need to be pruned radically, cutting out all the stems at the very base. This method is applicable, but with good shoot formation for hazel or forsythia bushes. For most plants, anti-aging pruning is carried out in stages.

It should be clarified! Annual growth - This is last year's growth with numerous vegetative and generative buds. The bark may be lighter than other shoots or radically different in color(for example, Derena white).

The cut must be made at an angle so that water does not stagnate on its plane, causing rotting of the wood. Besides important, there is a distance between the cut and the bud located below, there is a danger that it will dry out or freeze. If, on the contrary, you retreat too far from it, a stump forms, where infection can quickly penetrate.

Pruning of ornamental trees.

Some representatives of the green kingdom become more and more picturesque over the years, so they do not need crown correction (for example, magnolia and palmate maple). But to many ornamental trees and shrubs, so that they bloom or their crowns do not lose their shape, require periodic pruning.

Decorative apple tree, for example every 2-3 years only needs regulatory pruning . At the same time, old, damaged branches that thicken the crown are removed. Regular heavy pruning is necessary only for those trees and shrubs that must preserve a certain form CZK The same applies to plants whose flowers appear on young, newly formed shoots, for example, three-lobed almonds. Very strong pruning after flowering contributes to the fact that this year they have numerous shoots with flower buds. Many people can withstand such a radical haircut deciduous trees: white acacia Umbraculifera and goat willow Pendula , after pruning, they quickly become overgrown with new shoots emerging from the buds on the remaining part of the pruned branch.

For small gardens, trees with a spherical crown that can withstand heavy pruning are suitable, for example catalpa bignonia. Nana . Regular pruning helps control the tree's growth. Such trees even tolerate heavy pruning, almost to the base of the skeletal branches.

Trees with a spherical crown.

Thanks to the dense crown of a harmonious spherical shape and bright green foliage, Robinia pseudoacacia or white acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia) Umbraculifera ideal for planting in small garden: this tree withstands even very heavy pruning extremely well; its crown can be reduced to any size without losing its presentability.

Without pruning, the diameter of the spherical crown of pseudoacacia Umbraculifera over time can reach 4-5 m. This can be prevented if every 2-3 years completely trim all branches almost to the base, leaving only short stumps . Best time For such pruning, a frost-free day is in early March. Slow growing species, e.g. Ginkgo biloba Mariken pruning is necessary only many years after planting, and in this case, you can limit yourself to only weak correction of the crown. Liquidambar resiniferous Gum Ball It is also distinguished by a beautiful spherical crown, which, as a rule, does not need pruning.

Light pruning of white locust can be done at any time of the year . But better in early spring. Then the young shoots will quickly hide the unsightly places in the crown that appeared after pruning.

Also trimmed:

• common ash Fraxinus excelsior,
• white acacia Umbraculifera,
• catalpa bignoniiformes Nana.

Standard bushes are pruned according to the same principle. Three-lobed almonds with delicate pink, airy flowers look incredibly elegant. For this plant annual heavy pruning is advisable . If immediately after flowering the branches almonds shorten the three-lobed one to 10 cm, then next year it is guaranteed to have long, lush flowering branches.

In early spring, trim the standard Syrian hibiscus: depending on the size of the crown you want to see, the stems can be shortened, leaving only 2-3 buds. The upper kidney should be directed outward.

Willow wholeleaf Hakuro Nishiki The first time is pruned at the end of March. Additionally, branches can also be shortened in May and at the end of June. After each pruning, the tree produces new shoots with beautiful foliage.

Willows with a bushy crown are usually pruned in early spring. If you want to admire the flowers, you can wait to prune until the plant has finished blooming.

Globe maple holly is not pruned as much as white acacia Umbraculifera or not cut at all. Important: branches are shortened only from August to December, no later, otherwise the tree will cry.

In vaccinated people standard plants Wild growth may appear on the rootstock. Her the same as root shoots are cut off at the base without leaving any stumps.

Plants with drooping crown.

Standard plants with romantically hanging branches invariably attract the eye. A similar weeping crown shape is found in many trees and shrubs, for example goat willow (Salix caprea) Pendula.

This tree grows quickly, so branches are shortened every year , leaving stumps about 10 cm long. Trees that have not been pruned for a long time can also be rejuvenated by heavy pruning.

If we are talking about grafted trees and shrubs, it is necessary to completely remove the game , formed on the supply below the grafting site.

Do not trim:

• European beech (Fagus sylvatica) Purpurea pendula,
• rough elm (Úlmus glábra) camperdownii,
• warty birch (Betula pendula) Youngii,
• white mulberry (Mórus álba) Penaula .

These plants with drooping crowns grow more slowly than their upright relatives. The crowns of the listed trees form on their own and do not need adjustment. Is it just damaged branches? you can cut off at the very base or shorten the branches that seem too big or long. The last procedure must be carried out in stages so that the plant does not lose its beautiful appearance.

Decorative apple trees.

While fruit trees should primarily please with a bountiful harvest, decorative types are valued primarily for their beautiful appearance. Decorative apple tree (Malus) It is especially popular due to its compact crown, brightly colored autumn foliage and fruits remaining on the branches even in winter. This tree is pruned only when necessary and always in order to preserve the harmonious appearance of the plant. To do this, in early spring, crowns growing inwards and crossing, as well as dry and damaged branches are removed.

To transform a bush-like tree into a standard one, in addition to the above branches, every year it is necessary to remove the lower lateral branches , leaving one, the longest, as the central conductor, until the desired height is reached. If it is necessary to slow down the growth of an apple tree on a vigorous rootstock, summer pruning is carried out, although then the structure of the plant is less visible.

Decorative cherry can be called a real beauty - sakura, reaching the zenith of flowering in April - May. By old trees it is enough to limit yourself to only weak thinning of the crown . And if decorative apple trees If they are pruned in early spring, it is better to prune sakura in the summer, when the sap flow of these plants slows down and the cuts heal faster.

For vertically growing ornamental cherries, for example cherry (Prunus serrulata) Amanogawa , there is a place even in small gardens and front gardens. Their crown is good even without pruning.

Columnar yews, for example yew berry (Táxus baccáta) varieties Fastigiata Aurea , tolerates haircuts well. However only old plants are pruned or in the case when a slender shape is preferred, and the columnar crown grows in breadth.

Beautiful without trimming

While some trees and large shrubs have a natural beautiful shape crowns or acquire it due to adjustment, there are a group of plants that do not benefit from pruning : many slow growing trees such as magnolia, maple (Acer palmatum) They look better with a natural shaped crown. Unless they can be slightly thinned out.

Since in slow-growing trees and shrubs, new shoots no longer appear on old wood, each step must be carefully thought out, because due to improper pruning beautiful tree possible at for a long time disfigure. If you don’t have pruning skills, It is best to remove branches in early spring , when even a beginner can clearly see the structure of the plant crown.

Also trimmed:

• maple (Acer palmatum),
• womanizer (Laburnum),
• cersis (Cercis), magnolia (Magnolia),
• corylopsis (Corylopsis),
• witch hazel (Hamamelis),
• common wolfberry
• boletus.

Pruning spring flowering shrubs.

In many shrubs, which, like forsythia, bloom in the spring, flower buds appear primarily on last year's growths. If the bushes are not pruned, they age and the number of new shoots decreases. To stimulate the formation of new shoots, these Plants should be thinned out every year after flowering. . To do this, individual old branches are cut off at the soil surface. In addition, it is necessary to remove or shorten faded branches. Additionally, you can trim individual side branches directed towards the middle of the bush.

Also trimmed:

• bladderwort (Physocarpus),
• blood red currant (Ribes sanguineum),
• deutzia, mock orange (Philadélphus),
• forsythia (Forsythia),
• viburnum (Viburnum opulus),
• Kolkwitzia,
• spirea Vanhouttei (Spiraea x vanhouttei),
• Kerria,
• weigela.

Pruning summer flowering shrubs.

Pruning is carried out primarily so that they bloom profusely. . In addition, thanks to regular pruning, plants acquire a beautiful compact shape.

Many shrubs blooming in summer, flower buds are formed on young shoots that appear in the spring. A typical example of buddleia. In order for the plant to produce as many young shoots with flower buds as possible in the spring, buddleia is pruned in the fall or early spring.

But in most early flowering plants, for example forsythia, flower buds are formed on last year's growths. If the shrub is pruned, like buddleia, in early spring, there will be very few flowers. That's why Early flowering shrubs are pruned immediately after flowering . Then the plants will again give new shoots, lay good foundation for flowering next year. The only exceptions are shrubs with beautiful fruits, for example, the beautiful fruit (Callicarpa) and the European euonymus. Although they bloom in the spring, if you shorten the branches immediately after flowering, you will also cut off the fruits. Such shrubs should only be rejuvenated once every 5 years, completely removing old branches in late autumn.

Some shrubs also have flowers on perennial branches. Such shrubs include irga And lilac. They do not need to be trimmed regularly, It is enough to thin out the bushes every few years . And pruning is generally contraindicated for dogwood.

When pruning a plant, many gardeners make the same mistake error:They trim overgrown bushes with hedge shears only from the top, leveling the bushes at the same height. This, in turn, can lead to plants not blooming at all or losing their attractiveness. As a result, new root shoots appear and the plant rejuvenates. The function of the old branch can be delegated to the younger lateral process.

To do this, cut the branch above the shoot selected by the side branch. The branch continues to grow, but the role of the top is now played by a young shoot. By removing only individual branches, you will help the bush preserve natural form, and in winter even without leaves it will look beautiful. In general, the more radical the pruning, the more young shoots appear on the bush. In summer they also need to be thinned out well, otherwise the bush will soon grow to the same size.

At all Strong thickening on grafted shrubs is not allowed . Otherwise, wild growth from the rootstock will quickly displace the cultivated scion.

There are shrubs, such as white and silky dera, which are not particularly distinguished by the splendor of their flowers or the color of their leaves, but they do have bright branches.

This advantage is especially noticeable in winter. However, only young shoots have a striking color; after 3-4 years, the color of the bark becomes faded. Therefore, the purpose of pruning such shrubs is to form new shoots. Plant must be thinned out every year in early spring shortly before shoots appear , cutting off all branches older than three years at the soil surface. Neglected derain bushes can be thinned out throughout the season.

They also cut:

• silky turf (Cornus sericea),
• willow (Salix daphnoides),
• Cockburn raspberry (Rubus cockbur-nianus),
• white dogwood (Cornus alba)

Beautiful with or without pruning:

• flowering turf (Cornus florida)
• derain kousa (Cornus kousa),
• viburnum viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) Mariesii,
• fothergilla,
• controversa (Cornus controversa),
• corylopsis (Corylopsis spicata).

So that lavender smells fragrant in summer full force, and its bush had a harmonious appearance, the plant must be trimmed 2 times a year using hedge shears.

The first time in the spring, when the temperature begins to gradually rise, the tops of the shoots are shortened by a third, giving the bush a semicircular shape.

The second time is in the fall, when the inflorescences have already dried up. This time the peduncles are removed along with the top 2-3 pairs of leaves.

Young plants are also pruned in the same way in the first year after planting. Then the lavender grows, creating a dense carpet. If lavender is not trimmed, the shoots become woody to the very tips. In this case, the plant will lose its compact shape and will not tolerate more severe spring pruning.

Some gardeners trim lavender with pruning shears, but it is better to use hedge shears; they are easier to give the bush a uniform cushion shape. Make sure the bush takes on the shape of a hemisphere. Dry branches can be used to scent a room.

Pruning hydrangeas

Depending on the type, hydrangeas flower buds are laid at different times of the year, and the care of each depends on this specific type. For example, large-leaved hydrangea flowers appear on last year's growths. This means that flower buds are laid on them in the summer of last year, so the plant cannot be pruned in the spring.

But paniculate hydrangea blooms on young shoots current year, so its bushes can be pruned quite radically. In the shade-tolerant tree hydrangea, spherical inflorescences also appear on annual growths. However, in any case, hydrangeas of all types need thorough anti-aging pruning every 3-4 years, then the bushes will always have a beautiful compact shape.

Just like every rule has its own exceptions, and here: Almost every type of hydrangea has at least one variety whose flowers are laid differently than other relatives. Therefore, it is best to learn about the characteristics of each species and variety from specialized reference books, even before purchasing a new green pet.

G Ortensia macrophylla Otrim slightly . Hydrangea grandifolia, hydrangea pollenum and hydrangea oakleaf have flowers on biennial branches. So that the bushes grow evenly and take on a beautiful shape in the first year after planting they are not cut at all . Late winter or early spring Only dry inflorescences should be removed , carefully cutting them off above the first pair of buds, but not below. Otherwise, you will remove already formed flower buds, and the plant will not bloom. And so that young shoots constantly form on the hydrangea, the bush must be thinned out every 3-4 years . To do this, cut off old branches that have begun to bloom weakly, flush with the soil surface.

Hydrangea paniculata Medium pruning is required. Hydrangea paniculata significantly different from other types of hydrangeas, with cone-shaped inflorescences. Since its flower buds form on annual branches and shoots of the current year, this plant blooms profusely, even if it has suffered from severe frosts. In the spring, during the first three years after planting, all strong skeletal branches should be shortened by a third, weaker ones by half. In an adult plant remove old branches growing in the middle of the bush, and also trim annual ones with dried inflorescences , up to four kidneys. Young shoots with flower buds appear from them. Without pruning, the bush grows greatly, in which case it will need to be thinned out as quickly as possible. Exceptions for varieties Rgaesoh And Dharuma buds appear on last year's branches (growths), so they are not pruned. Only at the end of summer can the wilting of the inflorescence be removed.

Hydrangea It is characterized by frost resistance and abundant flowering. Thanks to its bright white, pom-pom-like inflorescences - balls, it will fit perfectly into both rustic and modern garden styles. The hardiest variety hydrangea tree Annabelle , the flowers of which are initially painted in a soft green color, blooming, gradually turning white. This and lesser known varieties Grandiflora And White Dome , flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, in early spring it can be done without remorse. shorten, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil surface. Thanks to such radical pruning, more inflorescences will appear on the bush, and they will be larger. Young plants should be handled more carefully and pruned more sparingly. In May, After the leaves appear, the plant is usually no longer pruned . Since these hydrangeas very heavy and large inflorescences, they need support. Advice: shorten some of the stems again in mid-June, then later the bush will begin to bloom again and this will last until autumn.

Depending on the time it takes place, they are distinguished autumn, spring and summer pruning , of which spring is considered the main one. At the same time, for each group of roses, from small flower beds to tall climbing ones, there are its own pruning rules.

Most suitable the time for spring pruning of roses comes in April , namely when forsythia flowers bloom. Typically this means that the threat severe frosts has already passed and soon the queen of flowers will have new shoots. However, if the rose needs to be greatly thinned out or individual old branches need to be removed, then this can be done in the fall.

Cut branches should not be left in the garden or put into compost. Then it will be possible to prevent the spread of pathogenic microbes and fungi that cause black spot and powdery mildew to other plants.

Shrub roses (remontant) single-flowering and repeat-blooming ones are pruned differently. The latter include all modern varieties of park roses, as well as many English roses that bloom magnificently all summer. Early they need to be thinned out in the spring , removing first of all dry and damaged branches. Shorten side shoots outside bush for about 5 buds. This promotes more abundant flowering.

If desired, you can shorten the bush in height by one and two thirds of the length. Many old varieties are considered to bloom once. They bloom profusely on last year's growths. To next year shoots with flower buds have formed on the plants; such roses should be pruned immediately after flowering.

Floribunda, hybrid tea and miniature roses.

First, dead, dry and damaged branches are removed , then the stems growing inside the bush, and trimmed to healthy tissue. Then 3-5 of the youngest and strongest stems are shortened, taking into account the growth vigor and varietal characteristics of each plant. In roses from the Floribunda and hybrid tea groups, 3-4 lower, well-developed buds are left on each stem; in vigorous varieties there are more. Miniature and ground cover roses Don't prune at all in spring , and in summer, faded inflorescences with 1-2 leaves are removed.

Climbing roses.

In remontant climbing roses in spring cut out all the old stems , leaving 5-6 strong annual growths, and if there are few of them, then several biennials, and shorten the side branches to 3-5 buds. After pruning, the stems are carefully tied to the support, if possible, directing the stems at the top horizontally or at an angle, which stimulates flowering. In summer, faded flowers are removed along with 2-3 leaves, after which the roses quickly bloom again.

Single-flowering ramblers, such as cultivars Veilchenblau , do not cause much trouble. They flower along the entire length of the overwintered stems of last year's growth, so pruning comes down to removing all old stems and shortening the side shoots to 20-25 cm.

Standard roses.

When pruning standard roses, it is important to know which group the variety grafted onto the standard belongs to. . If he belongs to hybrid tea, floribunda or shrub roses, the compact form is formed mainly by upright growing branches. To give the crown of a standard rose a rounded shape, the scion branches of such plants are shortened to 20-30 cm in early spring.

If the crown standard rose present varietal miniature roses , then they are cut off just as much. Things are different with roses with drooping stems, the so-called weeping or cascading standard roses. They serve as a graft climbing roses, including ramblers, as well as miniature roses with drooping stems. Cascading roses are only shortened too much long branches. However, in order for the rose to remain beautiful and bloom profusely from year to year, it is still necessary to remove too old branches from time to time, thereby freeing up space for the formation of young growths.

Important: Before you start pruning the queen of flowers, sharpen your pruning shears thoroughly. Then the cut will be even, and besides, you will spend less time on cutting.

Planting a garden is only the first step towards reaping a harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, fruit trees need to be pruned. They do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

ABOUT By cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will recover quickly.

You will need:

• garden knife;
• hacksaw.

It is recommended to trim the branches with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they compress the wood strongly, and then the wound takes longer to heal. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in the spring, is it possible after the sap begins to flow? It all depends on the condition of your garden. Did the trunk split, did the branches break under the weight of the snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing like this, then there is no point in injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Fruit tree pruning – important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, shoots should be removed:

• which extend from the trunk under acute angle;
• directed to the center of the crown;
• which do not bear fruit (wolfberry).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

1. Pruning should begin as soon as the severe frosts have subsided (most often this is the end of January, beginning of March). This way, the wounds will not freeze, and when sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They need to be lubricated with garden varnish.
2. You need to trim the shoots above the eyes, which grow outward from the crown. The cut is made from the inside out.
3. Branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the others.
4. On weak trees, short pruning is done. Trim above the second or third eyes.
5. With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
6. For vigorous trees, long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

Crown formation

Forming the crown of a young tree can begin in the second year of its life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple and pear trees appear on perennial shoots, and plums and cherries bear fruit the very next year after planting. Knowing this, spring pruning of fruit trees can be done without much damage to the future harvest. Non-tiered and sparsely-tiered crown formation systems are common. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, and cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is a trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

So, how to properly prune fruit trees in the spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

1. The conductor is the central shoot; cut it at approximately 80 cm from the base. The main thing: there should be up to a dozen buds left on the guide. New shoots and side branches will come out of them. This is the first tier.
2. Next year, remove branches damaged over the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
3. Therefore, according to the same principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
4. The tree has reached a height of four meters (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth and completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees need to be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as necessary, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

When pruning fruit trees in spring, the timing is late winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricots, cherries, peaches, and cherry plums. In the summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary density of the crown.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - formative pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; d - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); d - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already bearing fruit. But it, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to properly prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Remove the branch completely or partially. Partial removal promote the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is dormant, before sap flow begins.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upward), the growing branches need to be lowered down: those that are directed downward are left, and those that are directed upward are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove the ones pointing downwards.

To rejuvenate a tree, you will need to cut out the upper part of the trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, you should remove the old branches going inside the crowns that are intertwined. A very dense crown should not be thinned out overnight, so as not to seriously injure the plant; spread out the operation over two to three years.

Schemes for pruning pear, cherry, apple trees

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme for pears:

1. In winter, the branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or trimmed.
2. If you prune too much, it will weaken the tree and the fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do moderate pruning.
3. It is useful to slightly shorten annual branches. This will only strengthen them.

For cherries, sweet cherries:

1. Five to seven strong branches are left in young trees, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
2. All weak branches are removed.
3. The conductor should be 20 centimeters longer than the others.
4. Cherries are pruned only in the spring.

For apple trees:

1. Before you start pruning, you need to clear the trunk and main branches of shoots.
2. Removing a third of the branches and shoots will rejuvenate the old plant and increase productivity - the main thing is not to overdo it.
3. Pruning needs to be done over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

1. When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut close to the trunk.
2. A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown “ring”.
3. When removing thick branches, first make a cut from the bottom and then from the top. This way, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
4. If the shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with varnish.
5. It is better to wait until next spring to trim frozen trees.
6. You cannot fill hollows or drill drainage holes.
7. If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not place supports. It is better to partially pick off the fruits. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly prune a plant without damaging it by watching the video at the end of the article.

1. When pruning, the pruning shears should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
2. If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
3. There should be only one conductor. If there are competitors, eliminate them.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters and its branches to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

If you are trying to understand whether it is possible to cut wood with an angle grinder, then the answer to this question is clear: it is possible. But many will not do this, because... Too many injuries people get from using an angle grinder as a wood saw, which is correctly called an angle grinder.

First of all, this is caused by quite high speed its rotation, which most saw blades are simply not designed for. But who pays attention to this when there is work to be done, and there seems to be something at hand? suitable tool, and for the saw blade for wood there is also a compensator ring the right size applied. Moreover, the protective casing is removed for ease of operation, which is absolutely forbidden to do.

But we won’t talk about injuries, but we’ll talk about what and how you can process (including saw) wood using an angle grinder, but first, about the difficulties of working with an angle grinder specifically on wood.

Difficulties when working with an angle grinder

We mentioned the discrepancy between the speed of the angle grinder and the circular saw, but users who have an angle grinder with speed control can say that this factor was taken into account for their tool as well Any will do saw blade for wood.

Of course, by setting the number of revolutions of the grinder's output shaft corresponding to that indicated on the saw blade, they significantly reduce the risk of injury during operation, but do not completely eliminate it. This is primarily due to the material itself, or rather its structure and heterogeneity.

Even in various places One trunk of a tree has different hardness, not to mention inclusions of viscous resin, the possible presence of metal found in the thickness of the wood: from pellets and bullets that hit the tree during a hunt, to wires that had grown into it, which were used to tie up branches. Don't forget about knots, which are present in almost all types of wood.

When encountering the listed obstacles, the saw blade sharply slows down and, by inertia, the grinder is simply torn out of the hands, and when passing a hard section, it rushes forward with redoubled force.

When encountering metal, there is a high probability of chipping a carbide tooth, which can be captured next and thrown out at the speed of a bullet. It’s good if it’s within the range of the protective casing.

A person who decides to cut a tree is exposed to even greater danger, because in this case the grinder must be placed on its side, which changes the usual and comfortable grip, which means the grip weakens.

Grinder discs designed for cutting wood

1. Chain disks and cutters based on them.

Structurally, they are designed in such a way that even when biting the chain, which is similar in structure to saw chains for chainsaws, the base can rotate, so the tool will not be pulled out of your hands. Such discs are primarily intended for external processing of wood: sawing cups in logs, removing bark, modeling, but they can also be sawed, especially with a 230-size disc, which costs a lot, but compensates for its cost with the safety of work.

2. Saw blades for wood with a small number of teeth.

To enlarge the picture, click on it.

Such discs indicate the maximum rotation speed and should be selected based on the parameters of your tool. Such a large pitch between the teeth compensates for the high speed of the grinder and makes sawing much safer than working with standard saw blades, but you should also be wary of metal in wood. You will see their work in the video:

In addition to wood, they can also handle plastic and aerated concrete.

3. Tungsten carbide discs.

This is a new product in the field of tools for angle grinders, allowing you to freely saw wood without fear of metal inclusions, operating at rotation speeds of up to 12,200 rpm. She is the only one that gives an absolutely positive answer to the question: is it possible to cut wood with an angle grinder? You can see this for yourself by watching a short video about the operation of this disk:

Needless to say, these blades cut more than just wood.

4. Another tool, to one degree or another, suitable for cutting or other processing of wood using a grinder.

First things first:

a) Rotarex produces discs for cutting wood. In terms of their performance, primarily safety, they are inferior to those listed above, but are clearly more suitable for sawing wood than circular saw blades;

b) wood cutters designed for external processing of wood with angle grinders can also cut thin wood;

c) plane disk – attachment for an angle grinder.

d) a saw for creating wooden sculptures with a configuration of cutting elements vaguely reminiscent of the links of a saw chain; it is not entirely intended for sawing, but will cope with it to some extent.

Grinder for sanding wood

But this work, incl. on wood, specifically for this tool. Just a small photo selection of angle grinder attachments for grinding is evidence of this.

• for rough grinding.

• The most common type of attachments for grinding angle grinders, cleanliness depends on the size of the abrasive grain on the blades.

• The simplest option for changing grinding wheels is to use a holder attachment with a sticky base, on which replaceable abrasive wheels with different grains or even polishing bristles are attached.

• polymer abrasive nozzle made of silicon carbide with nylon.

• belt attachment for sanding.

And instead of a conclusion. Is it possible to cut wood with a grinder? It depends on what and what. If you cut a thin dry twig, then there are practically no restrictions, but if you have to do more serious work– see above.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Purposes of tree pruning

This procedure is carried out with the aim of extending the life of plants, stimulating their growth and obtaining a large harvest. After all fruit trees They are planted on a personal plot specifically for the purpose of producing fruits. Besides, Garden pruning helps protect trees from pests and possible diseases.

In general, plants need comprehensive care, pruning alone will not be enough to obtain a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to fertilize, water and spray the garden. And then your fruit trees will be beautiful, healthy and, most importantly, fruitful.

The fact that pruning trees plays a big role in obtaining a harvest does not mean that this activity should be carried out whenever you want. There are certain timing and methods for carrying out this procedure. Failure to follow these rules will have the opposite effect on the trees and you risk instead blooming garden get a bunch of stunted plants.

Types of pruning

By removing excess branches from the crown of a tree, you greatly slow down its growth. Experienced gardeners have long noticed this feature: the larger the tree, the smaller its fruits. Currently practiced the following types plant pruning:

Crown forming

This is done to obtain a bountiful harvest by forming the correct crown of the fruit tree. Typically, such pruning is carried out in the period from 2 to 4 years of life of the seedling on your site.

The branches are pruned in such a way that the stronger shoots form a reliable frame that protects the weaker and thinner branches. This must be done in such a way that the branches inside the frame receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. It has been noticed that trees with properly treated crowns begin to bear fruit earlier and produce more yield..

Regulating fruiting

The regularity of the resulting harvest depends on this procedure. The essence of this pruning is as follows: depending on the variety of seedling, the shoots are shortened by a certain number of buds. This number can vary from 3 to 12.

Restorative

It involves removing old, broken or diseased branches.

Rejuvenating

This type of pruning is only relevant for mature trees. Old branches are removed or shortened, leaving only young shoots. It is recommended to carry out this procedure approximately every four years.

Trimming methods

Novice amateur gardeners are concerned with the question of how to properly prune trees? We have already told you about the types of this procedure. Now it’s worth talking about the methods. Currently, two such methods are known. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

Shortening

The idea is to prune young shoots. This is done to prevent the growth of shoots outside the crown..

This is done like this: choose a shoot that grows outward and has more than one bud. For example, if there are three buds on a shoot, it is recommended to cut off one. Next year, the pruned branch should produce three young shoots. One of them will definitely grow in the direction the gardener needs, that is, not outward from the crown, but parallel to the ground. This shoot is left, the other two are cut off.

Thinning

This type of pruning of fruit trees is considered the safest for the health of the plant. In this case, the branches are not pruned, but completely removed.

It is necessary to remove the branch at its very base. Usually there is a subtle fold of bark in this place. This fold should remain intact. Then the cut site will quickly be covered with bark, which will significantly reduce the risk of disease.

Selecting Tools

The choice of tools for pruning fruit trees plays a big role. Tools should not only be comfortable, but also well sharpened. This will not only allow you to quickly necessary work, but will also cause less discomfort to the seedling.

Here is a list of tools that should be present in any gardener’s arsenal:

Secateurs

This is probably the most popular and frequently used tool in gardening. When purchasing such garden shears, you need to pay attention to the following points: weight, sharpening and operation of the mechanism.

If you purchase a tool that does not fit your hand or is difficult to operate, the work of pruning fruit trees will take a lot of time and effort.

Hacksaw

Not experienced gardeners They often use ordinary carpenter's tools to work in the garden. This is a fundamentally wrong approach. Although a construction saw will provide a faster work process, it will cause irreparable damage to the tree. Therefore, it is best to purchase a special garden hacksaw.

Air pruner

This tool's operating principle is no different from ordinary garden shears. The only difference is the telescopic design of the device. Thanks to it, without using a ladder, you can cut branches located at a decent height from the ground.

Gasoline saw

This tool is used to trim thick branches from old trees.

How to prune correctly to increase tree productivity

Many novice gardeners do not pay due attention to this procedure. Why bother with pruning if the tree already bears fruit beautifully, they say. But high yield It will happen only in the first three years, then it will decline sharply.

The crown plays a major role in the fruitfulness of a tree. It is recommended to trim and shape it from the beginning of planting the seedling in the ground. The crown should not be very thick and high. Otherwise, the abundance of branches will not pass through Sun rays, which will impede the development of fruits. In addition, processing and spraying heavily dense trees is very problematic. Accordingly, the plant will often get sick.

Pruning the garden is also necessary to ensure that the branches grow in the same direction. A chaotic accumulation of branches not only reduces the yield, but also makes harvesting difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to completely remove all shoots that grow strictly upward or downward.

Horizontal branches should not be removed; it is on them that most fruits are formed. IN as a last resort You can trim them slightly so that the branch does not break due to the abundance of fruits.

Do not leave dried, broken or frozen branches. They affect not only the yield, but also the lifespan of your garden.

IN winter time, especially with the onset of severe cold, it is recommended to trim the crown. This will allow the plant to recover faster from frost and, accordingly, produce more harvest.

When to prune

Why you need to prune fruit trees and how to do it correctly, we figured it out. Now we should talk about what time of year is best to do this.

Trimming garden trees takes place at any time of the year. But it is worth considering some factors. For example, the region of the country where your garden is located. Considering the vast expanses of our Motherland, each region has its own climatic conditions.

For example, in the south it is recommended to do this because there are no very coldy. IN middle lane In Russia, and in the north of the country, fruit trees should not be pruned. Otherwise, during severe frosts, the tree may get sick and die.

Taking these features into account, we can conclude that optimal time for cutting branches, this is early. Until the buds begin to swell. Therefore, first of all, attention is paid to old trees. Buds form on them much earlier than in young plants.

It also has its own characteristics. In general, experienced gardeners and biologists advise choosing for pruning the period when the garden is resting.

Garden trees and shrubs need competent and proper care all year round. To reap a bountiful harvest and be proud of a blooming healthy garden, you need to regularly conduct spring and autumn pruning trees. After getting acquainted with the basic information, you can easily turn even the oldest tree into a young one, and receive fruits from it the next year!

How to prune trees correctly

The formation of the crown begins from the moment the seedling is planted and continues throughout its life. Experienced gardeners recommend carrying out a radical transformation, deep and abundant cuts, in early spring, as soon as the temperature rises above zero. As a rule, this period occurs at the end of February or the beginning of March. At this time, the trees are in “hibernation” and will easily survive open cuts when active sap flow begins in the branches.

Autumn pruning is permissible only in southern regions with warm winters. In other areas, it is recommended to carry it out solely for sanitary purposes - to remove old, interfering and diseased branches. Let's look at examples of how to prune different fruit crops.

How to prune an apple tree

It is customary to prune the branches of ranetki and apple trees in spring and autumn. Summer removal occurs in the most urgent cases, for example, if the fruits do not have enough sunlight due to the crown being too thick.

• A newly planted tree needs to be pruned with pruning shears to 5 buds. A shortened stamp will ensure that the branches are raised above ground level, forming the correct crown, and root system the seedling will begin to grow faster.
• The next removal is carried out exactly one year later, in the spring. By this time, 5-6 main strong branches should be leaving the trunk; they should not be disturbed. Side shoots should be trimmed, removing one from each by one quarter. (Fig.2)

Gardeners recommend not touching the developing seedling for the next 3-5 years, with the exception of cutting off diseased and dried branches.

How to prune a pear

Planting, growing and caring for a pear tree is much more difficult than an apple tree. In winter, the southern plant often freezes or even dies under the influence of severe frosts; it is for this reason that it is safest to form a crown and remove old branches in early spring.

• For the first time, you need to remove exactly half of all thin, weak branches, leaving only straight and strong ones that will be able to withstand a bountiful harvest of the fruit tree.
• Every year after harvesting, the tree is carefully inspected for the presence of dry and weak branches and, if necessary, pruned.
• In early spring, the crown forms - you need to cut off last year's shoots by one third.

To rejuvenate an old, neglected tree and increase productivity, you need to trim the top of the trunk branches to the point of growth of the lateral branches, and reduce the volume of the skeletal branches by half.

How to trim a cherry tree

Sweet cherries and cherries do not require annual pruning. But it should be understood that the more dense the tree is, the greater the chance that the fruit buds will move to the ends of the branches, and the gardener will receive a significantly lower yield. Sanitary pruning is usually carried out in the fall, after the leaves have completely fallen off.

• First, thin out the crown, give it more light and air.
• Remove dry and diseased branches, if any.
• Then remove branches that interfere with each other and intertwine. The ideal distance between branches should be 10-15 cm.
• You also need to dig out the emerging growth, which weakens the mature tree and serves as an excellent shelter for hibernating pests and insects.

Annual seedlings are not pruned in winter, since they do not yet have enough strength to recover before the first frost.

How to trim a plum

Some plum varieties begin to bear fruit as early as three years of age. However, it is not always possible to obtain a full-fledged good harvest. One of the reasons for the lack of fruit is an overly thickened crown. Plum branches grow very quickly, so experts advise Special attention devote to their formation.

• When planting a tree in early spring, pruning is carried out immediately to 5-6 buds. The stamp from the ground to the end should be no more than 40 cm.
• For the first years after planting, it is necessary to regulate the size of the side branches. If their length is more than 60 cm, shorten them by one third.
• Branches that grow at an acute angle to the trunk must be separated to the sides by hanging a small load on a rope.
• Carry out subsequent pruning systematically - remove crooked, broken, weak and diseased branches.

With the right approach, the crown should form in the shape of a bowl. Then the light will reach every bud, and the plum will thank you with a good harvest.

How to prune other garden trees

For sea buckthorn, cherry plum, serviceberry, honeysuckle, quince, viburnum and others, the rules and timing for the formation of a beautiful crown are no different from those described above in the article. The principle is the same - you need to remove old branches, diseased ones and those that interfere with each other. You can make a cut in two ways:

• Ring cut - the branch is removed with a saw or sharp knife along the rounded edge of the branch. At the end, you should be left with a beautiful, even cut, which must be treated with garden varnish.
• Cutting to a bud helps change the growth of the branch in the direction you want. To do this, in the spring, a branch is removed above the desired bud, leaving a stump of no more than 2 mm.

To rejuvenate an old tree, you need to trim not only the crown, but also the roots. On the side from which you are pruning the branches, you need to dig a large trench 70 by 70. Place mineral and organic fertilizers, then fill the soil back. Thanks to this method, you will cut off old roots, at the same time rejuvenate and feed the tree.