home · Measurements · How to prune a domestic rose bush. We learn to prune indoor roses before flowering. What kind of soil does a dwarf rose like?

How to prune a domestic rose bush. We learn to prune indoor roses before flowering. What kind of soil does a dwarf rose like?

Indoor roses cannot be called difficult plants to grow. You just need to choose them carefully temperature conditions and take a responsible approach to care. If you surround roses with care, they will bloom tirelessly and almost constantly. For indoor roses, watering, fertilizing, access to fresh air, and frequent inspections are important. But if all other points of basic care are “responsible” for the health and strength of plants, then one of the procedures is the key to its abundant and continuous flowering. Trimming – main secret luxurious flowering of potted roses. In this regard, miniature copies of garden beauties (which are indoor roses) are no different from any other varietal roses. For indoor roses, three types of pruning are necessary: ​​Regular, annual pruning for formation and flowering. Regulatory pruning to deal with shoots that are weak or stray from the contours. Seasonal pruning, which boils down to removing wilting parts of the plant. Without exception, all indoor roses, regardless of their origin and class, tolerate even the most severe pruning and allow shaping. And miniature, and floribunda, and Chinese varieties cut according to general rules. When pruning indoor roses, it is very important to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards: use only sharp tools, and best of all, special pruners for pruning bushes; make sure the tools are clean and treat work surfaces with disinfectants; Treat all cuts immediately with protective equipment. Whatever pruning we are talking about on roses, even in indoor format, the cuts must be done correctly, carefully checking the location of the buds. For indoor roses, pruning is carried out only above the buds, as close as possible, but still leaving a part of the trunk about 0.5 cm long to eliminate the risk of damage to the bud itself. Damaged shoots are cut back to healthy tissue. The cut is made only at an angle, away from the bud. Basic pruning of indoor roses Indoor roses are pruned to stimulate thickening of the bushes and as much as possible abundant flowering according to the same principles and rules as any other cultivated bush roses, including garden ones. Cutting back all old shoots to stimulate new growth is the main task. Without pruning, it is impossible to stimulate the growth of strong, healthy and high-quality young shoots: indoor queens bloom on the shoots current year, and without pruning the flowering will be very poor. Basic pruning of indoor beauties is carried out after the dormant period and before the start of active growth. Typically, roses are pruned in February or early March. But it is best to focus on a much more obvious sign - swelling of the kidneys. They should not wake up and begin to develop, but only “buck up” so that future growth points can be easily recognized. The duration of daylight at the time of pruning should already exceed 10 hours. For indoor roses, both late and early pruning are equally dangerous: if you prune ahead of schedule, during short daylight hours, new shoots will develop too weakly, and both foliage and flowering will suffer; if pruning is done late, when growth has already begun to develop from the buds, then as a result of a drastic pruning, growth will stop, the plant will spend energy on adaptation, and all development before pruning will be “wasted” and will deplete the plant. The main pruning begins not with general regulatory pruning, but with mandatory sanitary cleaning. This procedure is typical for all shrubs, both in garden and indoor culture: First of all, remove all damaged, dry shoots. Pruning is carried out to healthy tissue. If there is no point in preserving the remaining part of the shoot (for example, if there are no buds on it), then cut it to the ground. All weak, elongated, thinned shoots are cut to the base. The bushes are carefully inspected and the branches that thicken the crown and grow inside the bushes are cut out to the base. During pruning, you also need to remove: severely twisted shoots; branches without an upper central bud (plug); one of any intersecting shoots and extra branches growing from one bud. If pruning was carried out after flowering, then before the main pruning they simply cut out previously missed or new problem areas and carry out control. The most reliable rule, which allows you to always trim the rose correctly - cut off all the shoots by half their length. If you do not have experience in growing roses indoors or you are afraid of pruning, then use this particular pruning principle. This is the most reliable option for pruning indoor roses. If pruning does not scare you, and you can easily navigate the plant itself, can “count” the buds well and adjust the pruning individually on each bush, then it is better to use a less universal, but also more productive strategy. All shoots of indoor roses are shortened, leaving at least 3 high-quality buds on them ( optimal quantity– 4-5 kidneys). The degree of pruning is determined depending on the desired compactness and shape of the bush, the condition of the plant, the thickness and height of the shoots. Small-flowered roses like lower pruning than large-flowered ones; weak-growing shoots are pruned into three buds, and up to 5-6 buds can be left on powerful ones. On any bush it is necessary to leave 4-5 skeletal strong shoots (they are usually shortened to 3-5 buds, leaving a base 10-15 cm high). The formation of the rose can be done as desired. When pruning roses, you can set a strict, almost topiary shape of a ball or cone, you can limit the height or make the bushes “flat”. Different types roses are more “inclined” to their particular shape. Thus, floribundas and Chinese (Bengal) indoor roses are formed at will, miniature roses most often grown in spherical, conical or elliptical shape. If the rose was bought from a certain form bush, then with regular pruning it is supported and the escaped shoots are shortened. If you want to give a room rose a new shape, then it is better to carry out the formation gradually and spread it out over several years, cutting off only part of the shoots each year and giving the plant time for high-quality thickening of the crown and restoration. In addition to basic pruning, roses should be monitored throughout the rest of the year. If some shoots grow unproductively, are too weak or thin, stretch out, or stand “naked,” it is better to remove them immediately. Care after basic pruning Roses that have undergone basic pruning should not be immediately exposed to the sun and heat. Before the leaves appear, it is better to keep trimmed indoor beauties in a room with a cool temperature of about 10-11 degrees and in diffused lighting. On bright lighting and in room temperatures they can be rearranged only after the first leaves appear. Watering after pruning for indoor roses should be very careful. Overmoistening at this stage poses a very big threat, and complete drying of the substrate may not allow the plant to produce full-fledged strong branches. Feeding is not resumed until the roses begin to actively develop. It is worth paying attention to air humidity: high humidity in the first weeks after pruning, it increases the risk of the spread of diseases and damage to indoor roses by fungal infections. Additional and seasonal procedures Proper pruning for indoor roses starts at the flowering stage. Like garden beauties, fruiting of indoor roses negatively affects the duration of flowering and its characteristics. The bushes must be regularly inspected and fading flowers must be constantly removed from the plant. Such “cleaning” will not only prolong flowering, but will also give you the opportunity to admire immaculate bushes in pots, which are far from being decorated by the appearance of fading petals. Basic seasonal procedures during flowering: 1. As soon as the flowers fade on the rose, all faded parts of the shoots are shortened to the first full leaf (cinquefoil) or to the first full bud looking outward. Pruning above the bud is carried out according to the same rules as the main pruning on indoor roses. 2. If you want to achieve constant flowering from a rose, you can, after the flower has fully opened, cut the stem to the fifth bud, thereby stimulating the growth of new shoots and buds. Each new shoot during the entire growing period is shortened in the same way as during the main pruning. This option is labor-intensive and does not always bring the desired result; in conditions of reduced daylight hours, the rose will still stop flowering, so it is better to simply remove faded inflorescences in the usual way and do not combine pruning and flowering. 3. Within additional measures You should not forget about removing dry or damaged parts. It is also better to trim dry or beginning to dry out leaves or twigs without waiting for spring sanitary cleaning. It is better to supplement the last trimmings of faded inflorescences sanitary cleaning– removal of damaged, weak, dry, unproductive or thickening shoots. By thinning and leaving only strong, healthy branches for the winter, they reduce the risk of the spread of diseases and pests. It is not necessary to carry out sanitary pruning after flowering; it can be combined with the main one. And in this matter it is better to focus on your preferences and capabilities.

Today we will tell you about how to prune an indoor rose, because this is one of the main conditions for your flower to develop and form correctly. Caring for roses at home requires a little work from you, but you will be satisfied with the result, because if you do everything on time and according to the rules, she will thank you in full, and your house or apartment will be transformed beyond recognition.

Do I need to prune my indoor rose?

The answer to this question is yes. When to prune a rose? It should be cut when the flower has already fully opened and its middle is almost visible. Pruning a rose is useful both for sanitary purposes: you cut off shrunken, dead shoots that only harm the flower, and decorative purposes: you form a neat, decorative bush, which will look the way you want it, and will not grow in a chaotic manner.

How to prune an indoor rose correctly?

We count 5 buds down from the flower, and cut off the 5th bud.

You can also trim the rose if necessary, for example, if you have large, ugly knots on the stem from a previous unsuccessful pruning, you can trim right under that place, thereby resulting in two useful actions at once. If the branch is thick and large, it will give a very good shoot.

What should the cut be? It should be done obliquely in relation to the bud, it should also be about one centimeter away from the bud, this distance is considered ideal, the cutting angle should not be very sharp, the ideal angle is considered to be 45 degrees. You need to trim with sharp scissors or a knife.

Reproduction of indoor roses:

Cuttings should not be thrown away. They can be used for indoor rose propagation. To do this we need to prepare them.

  • To do this, we cut the flower, as you see in the photo.

  • You also need to cut off the two bottom leaves.
  • Place the cuttings prepared in this way in water and wait until they have roots, after which the rose will be suitable for transplanting into a pot.

The second method of propagating indoor roses is as follows:

  • To do this, we will take a large cutting, which had several knots from previous prunings, and cut off the flower from it, and also cut off the lower leaves.

  • As you can see in the photo, the shoot turned out to have a very powerful stem - it’s almost a ready-made bush when it sprouts.
  • Further in the pot, where the rose bush is already growing, we dig a hole in an empty space and place our cutting there.

  • We deepen this knot into the ground and press it. The rose should be watered every day, it does not like its earthen lump to dry out, and keep it not in the open sun, but in the shade.

Trimming an indoor rose is not difficult, and now you know how to do it correctly. The main thing is to do everything according to our advice, and the bush of this wonderful flower will delight your eyes. With this we say goodbye to you, we wish you Have a good mood, and to your flower - correct pruning, see you again on our website farmer without hassle!

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Due to lack of free time and desire indoor flowers I have practically none. But recently I was given an amazing indoor rose. A compact bush with bright yellow flowers immediately won my love, but I’m afraid that it will disappear. Tell me how to care for dwarf roses in pots so that the flower grows well and blooms profusely?

Dwarf roses, unlike garden roses, not only have a more compact appearance, making them easy to care for, but are also able to delight with their flowering for much longer.

What kind of care do dwarf roses in a pot need so that the plants feel good and delight the owner with long and abundant flowering? Everything is quite simple and there is no need to invent anything new, the main thing is to give the beauty a little attention and provide comfortable conditions:

  • select nutritious soil;
  • choose a lighted place;
  • regulate air temperature and humidity;
  • water in a timely manner;
  • Feed and trim periodically.

What kind of soil does a dwarf rose like?

In principle, the first two weeks after purchasing a flower there is no need to replant it. You should give the rose time to get used to the new, home climate. Some flower growers generally do not advise replanting a purchased plant until flowering ends or until it “grows” out of the old flowerpot. But if there is a need for urgent soil replacement or transshipment, this must be done after the rose has adapted.

In the future, it should be replanted in spring or late summer as the bush grows, choosing a pot 2-3 cm wider and 5 cm higher than the previous one.

The soil can be purchased at the store (ready-made substrate), or you can make it yourself by mixing:

  • 1 part of the land from the garden;
  • 2 parts each of humus and peat;
  • a handful of coarse sand.

Lighting, temperature and humidity

Like garden roses, their dwarf relatives are very fond of good lighting, but not the south side, where the bush will quickly bloom and the leaves will fade. Such windows should be shaded in summer, and if possible, the flowerpot should be placed in the southwest. But in winter, when daylight hours are short, the rose needs additional lighting with lamps.

Comfortable temperature for a dwarf rose depends on the time of year and period of development:

  • in spring and summer – no higher than 25 degrees Celsius;
  • from mid-autumn to the end of winter - from 5 to 8 degrees Celsius.

Dry indoor air is detrimental to roses, so you should spray the bushes daily and place a container of water nearby.

Watering and fertilizing mode

Roses should be watered at the root or in a tray only with warm water; cold water can cause them to hurt. It is better to alternate these two methods. IN summer time It is necessary to moisten the soil more often, but with the onset of autumn the interval between waterings must be increased.

With the arrival of spring, or even better - from the second ten days of February, dwarf rose needs regular feeding with organic matter, but not more than 2 times a month. There is no need to apply fertilizer in autumn and winter.

Formative pruning

To maintain a dwarf rose in beautiful shape, in spring and autumn you should trim the bushes, leaving at least 5 buds on the shoot. During the flowering period, dry inflorescences are cut off to stimulate the setting of new buds.

Caring for home roses– it’s not an easy matter. It takes experience, patience and a love of flowers to grow this plant healthy and constantly blooming. Each season, roses require special care.

Of course, this is not a tropical plant, but keep an eye on the temperature environment and humidity is needed. It is also important to protect the plant from pests and fungi.

Varieties of roses blooming indoors

If you are confused and don’t know which plant will take root best in the room, let’s take a short tour of the varieties of decorative roses.

Miniature types of roses:

  • Baby Darling;
  • Yellow Doll – yellow;
  • Angela Rippon;

Hybrid tea scented:

  • La France;
  • Jules Boucher.

Multi-flowered polyantha roses:

  • Triumph;
  • Clotilde.

Bengal:

  • Ophelia;
  • Grotendorst Pink.

All of the listed varieties adapt more or less adequately to room conditions. These plants still grow better outside in a flower garden, since the dry air in the room does not favor the growth of these delicate flowers. And if you replant frequently, you can accidentally snag a root and damage the flower.

But if it is not possible to transplant low-growing roses into open ground, then you need to create as much as possible favorable conditions for their development in our apartment environment.

Home care

The home rose is a moderately demanding plant. She needs moderate watering, good feeding and suitable air humidity so that the leaves do not dry out. Amateur flower growers know firsthand how often a healthy-looking rose disappears a few days after being purchased in a store. The fact is that there, in the greenhouse where it grew, it received professional care.


Now that she has entered the apartment, it is impossible to create the same conditions, but still, by following some rules for maintaining such flowers, it is possible to save the plants:

  • The soil must be nutritious and give the flower nutrients;
  • During the growing season, watering is frequent, but over-watering is also not recommended;
  • Water for irrigation should only be at room temperature, at a comfortable temperature for the flowers;
  • Access to fresh air (place flowers near open window or on the balcony);
  • It is necessary to immediately remove wilted leaves;
  • Feed once a week during flowering (either in a tray, or by spraying).
  • If fungal diseases are detected, they should be treated with a fungicide.

Now let's discuss how to care for home roses in every season of the year.

Summer care:

  • Frequent, abundant watering, as the plant produces many buds and needs nutrition;
  • Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers;
  • Pest control;
  • Spray occasionally with water, as roses need good air humidity.

Autumn is the time when flowering ends. This means that the flower growers’ plans include:

  • Limiting watering;
  • Trimming.

In winter, these flowers have a dormant period. IN winter period healthy:

  • Reduce watering;
  • Place the plant in a room or on a loggia, where it is about 10 degrees Celsius;
  • Place the flowers in a box with tyrsa so that the earth does not cool down;
  • Install lamp daylight next to the plant, since there is not enough sunlight at this time.

Transfer


In order for the flowers to feel good, you need to choose the right soil. When the soil is old, the plant will not bloom. Therefore, it is recommended to renew the soil of mature plants every 2 or 3 years. That is upper layer remove the soil and add fresh soil. Very young flowers are transplanted into new pot with soil as the root system grows. That is, every year in the spring.

Choose a new pot 5-6 cm higher and about 3 cm wider in diameter. It will be optimal size potty: no problem root system, but the place will not be empty.

Stores sell a special substrate already prepared for planting. But there is another option - find and mix turf soil, sand, leaf soil and humus. Such soil contains all the nutrients a flower needs. And you need to replant it a few days after purchase, since it is unknown how long the flower spent on the trip and whether there is still a supply in the ground necessary substances. But let the flower rest for a couple of days. He needs time to acclimatize.

Need to know, undergo transplantation flowering plant it is forbidden. Wait for the large buds to bloom. And before new ones open, carefully trim the shoots with scissors and transplant.

We will describe how to do this correctly, with minimal damage to the flower:

  • Prepare suitable pot. To do this, rinse with warm water (without soap or detergents) and let it dry a little in the sun;
  • Expanded clay should be placed on the bottom in a layer of 1-2 cm. Expanded clay will act as drainage;
  • A layer of earth with humus and sand is placed on top of the drainage, and only then comes a layer of ordinary fresh earth.
  • Water the plant. Wait a while until the ground is completely wet.
  • Take out the wet lump of earth with the flower and place it in the prepared flowerpot.
  • Sprinkle dry soil on the side and compact.
  • If necessary, add more soil so that there is 3-4 cm left to the edge of the flowerpot.
  • Lightly spray the leaves with settled, clean water.

Do not rush to apply immediately after transplantation mineral fertilizers. It is better to start feeding only after a month.

Trimming

Pruning is carried out in the fall. If the flowers are thinned out correctly, they will have an easier time next spring. They will quickly recover from the winter dormancy period and begin to actively grow and produce buds.

Trimming is done like this:

  • It is advisable to have 5-6 living buds on each remaining stem.
  • The stem is cut to approximately 1∕3.
  • There is no need to remove leaves.

After pruning, leave the roses in a cool room and do not need to water them again.

Rose propagation

To grow a new rose, select several young shoots and take cuttings from them. Cuttings are planted in the warm months of summer.


The stages are:

  • Cut young cuttings 10-15 cm long (depending on the variety);
  • Make an oblique cut at the bottom of the cutting;
  • Trim all the leaves from the bottom;
  • Place the cuttings in a jar of warm water;
  • Place the jar on the windowsill that receives the most light;
  • Add some growth stimulant;
  • After about 2 weeks, roots will appear. Then you can plant it in a prepared pot with soil.

It is best to choose a dark glass jar. Change the water often so that it does not stagnate. You can plant the plant even before the root system grows. As soon as the beginnings of roots appear, plant immediately. After planting, cover plastic bag or a light glass jar.

Cuttings can be taken after autumn pruning and plant them in the spring. It is in the spring that the plant is in an active growth phase and it will take off well.

Diseases of domestic roses

It is better to detect a disease on a rose early, before the disease weakens the flower. And also better in spring, without waiting for the first symptoms, carry out treatment for preventive purposes.


The most famous diseases are:

  • Powdery mildew. This infection is caused by special fungi. The infection can be easily detected by characteristic spots white plaque. Appears due to excessive watering and too close “neighborhood” of rose bushes.
  • Black spot. It is also caused by fungi due to a lack of certain microelements in the soil and high humidity. First, the leaves become stained, and over time the stem and shoots become stained.
  • Spider mites. It is advisable to check the leaves from time to time to ensure they are free of these mites.
  • rose aphid damages stems and buds. When it appears, urgent treatment is needed.

Any of the listed diseases begins in the spring and “captures” weak plants.

Tasks of a florist in case of illness:

  • Do not allow the bush to weaken. To do this, in late spring and early summer it is advisable to increase the level of calcium in the soil with the help of fertilizers.
  • Constantly remove the affected leaves so that the fungus does not spread to still healthy stems.
  • If you notice signs fungal disease, you need to immediately treat the leaves with a soap solution.

Only when such organic prevention methods do not work, then you need to buy fungicides. Insecticides are used to treat ticks and aphids.

Blooming roses bring a lot of joy to gardeners. The flowers are very elegant and come in many different shades. But you need to know how to care for them. When to prune and how to protect against diseases. If you don’t want the flower to disappear, you need to follow all the recommendations for pruning and correct transplantation. Do not overwater the plant. Only as the soil in the pot dries out.

This is a plant that reproduces well. Therefore, in a few years you may have a whole greenhouse of roses on your loggia.

In indoor culture, varieties are usually used roses from groups Bengal(or Chinese roses), Floribunda And Miniature. All these groups of roses tolerate pruning well. The bushes can be given any shape you wish, but this is done in several steps and even over several years. When forming and pruning indoor roses, you need to pay attention to the following. Timing of pruning. Formative pruning is best done when the plant's growth buds swell in the spring. But you can’t focus only on this. Pruning stimulates the formation of strong young shoots, the growth of which is possible only with sufficient nutrition and good light conditions. If it is carried out too early, when daylight hours are short, the new shoots will be weak, thin, and the leaves will be small and pale. You should not expect abundant flowering on such stems. Late pruning, when new growth has appeared, leads to a pointless waste of the plant’s energy and slows down its development. For the growth of young rose shoots in indoor culture, a daylight length of at least 10 hours is required. After each flowering, faded inflorescences and weak, small shoots growing inside the bush are pruned.

Pruning rules. For all groups and varieties of roses, including indoor ones, there are general rules pruning: Pruning is performed only with sharp pruning shears or a knife, since a torn cut resulting from blunt instruments can lead to the death of the entire shoot. The shoots are cut above the bud, which is located on outside(does not look inside the bush). Trim the shoot as close to the bud as possible. The cut should have a slight slope. Top part The cut should be above the kidney and 0.5 cm above it. Bottom part The cut should be at the same level as the bud or slightly above it, on the opposite side from the bud. Shoots are always trimmed to healthy tissue. All dead and diseased stems are completely cut out. Cut off all weak, thin and twisted branches completely. The “plug” shoots that lack the upper central bud are completely removed. If two stems intersect, then one of them is removed. When, after trimming the stem, 2 or 3 shoots grow from one bud, you need to remove the excess ones as quickly as possible.

Bush formation. Before boarding young plant select the largest stems and shorten them to 10–15 cm, leaving 3–5 buds (Fig. 1). All weak and thin branches are cut off completely. The roots are shortened by one quarter. Then, for a year after each flowering, dried flowers and small shoots are removed (Fig. 2). In the spring of the second and subsequent years, they continue to form the bush, so that it branches well and is lush (Fig. 3). Last year's shoots are shortened, leaving 3-4 buds. Starting from the third year, pruning of shoots is carried out not only in the spring, but also throughout the entire flowering period. When the flower on the shoot begins to fade (or the petals fall off - it all depends on the variety), it is shortened above the aunt or fourth bud, applying the pruning rules. Old bushes can be lightly pruned in autumn and winter when flowering ends or has stopped. It is not recommended to perform strong and short pruning of indoor roses in one step. Very powerful young shoots may form, which will disrupt the symmetry of the bush. Rose bushes of the Miniature group are given the shape of a ball, ellipse, or cone. Roses of the Bengal and Floribunda groups can be given any geometric shape. In addition, their stems can be directed along a trellis, ladder, or arcs, placing them in space in one plane or volumetrically. When grown on narrow window sill It is very convenient to place the shoots on a trellis or arcs in one plane: fan-shaped, in the form of a circle, a ring, etc. When the plants are on stands and there is enough space, you can direct the shoots along arcs in the form of a ball, vase, basket - as your imagination dictates.