How to connect the socket from the switch yourself. How to connect a socket and a switch from one wire Yandex how to make a socket from an LED light bulb

A simple adapter from a light bulb socket to a socket may be useful in places common use, where there are no stationary sockets for connecting electrical appliances, but only lamps with light bulbs. This could be your entrance, basement, etc.

What will you need for the adapter?

• LED or other light bulb in a plastic case.
• Wall socket with open installation.
• A piece of wire with a cross-section of 1-2 squares.

Making a socket-socket adapter

Electrical wiring of any room begins with a socket, switch and light bulb, be it an apartment, a country house

house, garage or basement. The ability to perform will be relevant always and everywhere, with
any repair, redevelopment and construction. In this article you will find detailed guide, which discusses this issue in detail. By following the step-by-step instructions below, you can easily do it yourself switch and socket connection diagram, learn it yourself and you can teach it to others. So, let's move from words to action. Let's look at the question from the very beginning to the end. Installation of any electrical circuit always begins with distribution box. Next, wires, socket boxes, electrical circuit protection devices, sockets, switches and lamps are installed. Let's go in order.

We mount installation elements

For maximum clarity and clarity, we will analyze the full circuit installation cycle from start to finish. Thanks to this, we will give the most detailed answer to the question of how to connect an outlet with a switch. Let's take the diagram as an example hidden electrical wiring, what is usually located under a layer of plaster.

We install the distribution box.

We will install a switch in one, and a socket in the other.

Now let's mount the DIN rail, in our case it will act as part of the power cabinet; a circuit breaker will be installed on it, which performs the function of protecting the electrical circuit from short circuit and overloads, which have such a detrimental effect on all elements of the circuit.

The last detail that completes the first stage of installation is the lighting element. In our example, it will be a light bulb with a socket, clearly, simply and clearly. Therefore, we will move its installation to stage number two.

Laying the wires

First of all, let's connect the wire feeding the junction box. In our example, we use a wire of the VVGngP brand; a three-core wire with a cross-section of 2.5 squares is used as the supply. The cross section was selected using the calculation method based on the load on the chain; you can easily perform these calculations on your own. Here you will find detailed description Moreover, I assure you there is nothing complicated here.

On both sides it is necessary to leave a reserve of wire for connecting electrical wiring elements (breaker, socket, switch) of 10-12 centimeters, in the junction box 10-15 centimeters. Wires that are too short will be inconvenient to connect and connect, so it’s better not to save much.

Here you will need a wire with a core cross-section of 2.5 square.

1.5 square meters per switch.

Now, let’s lay the wire for the lighting; for us it’s a light bulb with a socket.

We have laid all the wires necessary to complete the circuit, let's move on to the third stage.

Installation and connection of electrical wiring elements

Let's start by installing the security device. For our circuit we use a two-pole circuit breaker rated at 25 Amps. The selection of the required amperage of the protection device is made after calculating the cross-section. We immediately decide on the color of the wire:

• blue, white with blue stripe - zero (neutral)
• yellow with green stripe - earth (grounding)
• the remaining wire will be the phase, usually it can be black, white, brown, red, orange or white with a black or brown stripe

In our example there are two types phase colors the wires are white and white with a brown stripe.

In order not to get confused in the colors of the wires, it is best to use wire from one manufacturer.

Before further work a power outage will be required. Turn it off. We check the absence using a voltage indicator. How to do this is discussed in detail in the article. Filming outer layer wire insulation, measure required amount To connect, remove the required amount of the second insulating layer from the copper core and connect the wires to the circuit breaker. Read more about connection in the article.

Now we connect the outlet. We strip the wires and measure required quantity, insert the wires into the contact clamps, tighten the screws, and check the reliability of the fixation. You can read more in the article about connection in the article.

We install the socket mechanism in the socket box.

Next, we connect a single-key switch. We prepare the wires, remove the outer insulating layer, measure out the required amount and connect the stripped wires to the contact clamps. We isolate the unused ground wire.

A connection example is discussed in detail in the article.

We install the mechanism in the socket box (mounting cup).

More details about connection and installation various elements electrical wiring (sockets, one and two key switches lights, illuminated switches and more)

We connect the cartridge. We remove the insulation from the wire, measure out the required amount of phase and neutral conductors for connection, strip it and connect. We tighten the contact screws well with a screwdriver, and make sure that they are securely fixed by shaking the wire from left to right.

All elements of the circuit are installed and connected, let's move on to the next stage.

Connection diagram of a switch and socket, connection of wire cores in a junction box

It remains to complete the last final and most critical stage of the scheme. Let's get started.

To make the connection of wires simple and clear, let's start with a switch and a lamp (in our case, a socket and a light bulb). We prepare the wires and remove the outer layer of insulation.

In our example, a three-core wire is used; the choice is determined by its functionality, since if necessary, the circuit can be remade without any problems. For example, a single-key switch can be converted into a two-key switch, or, on the ceiling there was a simple lamp with one light bulb, but it became a chandelier (some chandeliers use a system of partial switching on of lamps, for example there are 10 of them, one key will switch on 6, the second 4, and both, respectively, all). You can also use the third wire as grounding for the housing of a lamp or chandelier, for example in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, we isolate the extra yellow-green core, which we will not use now, and put it in the distribution box so that it does not interfere.

Now we clear 3.5-4 centimeters copper cores all remaining wires.

Next, we connect two wires to each other, the blue wire from the wire coming from the switch (outgoing phase) and the white phase wire from the wire going to the light bulb. The connection is made by twisting the wires together.

Now, remove the insulation from all other wires.

For subsequent connection, we strip the insulation of all 6 cores, 3.5-4 centimeters each.

Two yellow with a green stripe.

And three phase ones, one white and two white with a brown stripe.

The scheme is almost complete. Now you need to check that it is being done correctly. Screw the light bulb into the socket.

We separate the strands in the distribution box so that they do not touch each other and apply voltage to the circuit breaker for our circuit. Turn on the machine, move the lever to the up position.

We press the switch key, the light comes on.

The socket can be checked using any electrical appliance; we insert its plug into the socket and check its functionality.

Everything is fine, everything works.

Now turn off the electricity and use insulation tape isolate the twists.

Carefully place them in the distribution box.

The scheme is completed.

Switch and socket connection diagram

By installing the circuit ourselves, we saved:

• time to search and money to call an electrician - 200 rubles
• installation and connection of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles
• installation of a grounding contact - 150 rubles
• installation, grouting of the internal distribution box - 550 rubles
• assembly of the distribution box, twisting method - 300 rubles
• installation of a lamp, chandelier with connection (450 rubles for 1 lamp, chandelier from 800 rubles) - average price 600 rubles
• installation of a socket box ( Brick wall 200 rubles - 1 piece), we have 2 pieces - 400 rubles
• socket installation hidden installation(1 piece for 200 rubles), we have 2 pieces - 400 rubles
• installation single-key switch- 150 rubles
• installation of wires openly along the wall up to 2 meters (35 rubles - 1 meter), for example 4 meters - 140 rubles
• installation of wire open wall, ceiling, over 2 meters (50 rubles -1 meter), for example 15 meters - 750 rubles

Is it possible to wire a socket from a switch and a switch from a socket, how is this easier to implement and what should you pay attention to?

It is these questions that we will try to answer in our article. After all, many of you have probably encountered the problem of having to install a new electrical point, and to do this completely renovating a room is not always advisable, and it is not necessary. The main thing is to approach the matter wisely and set priorities correctly.

Before considering the issues of making changes to the existing network, let's understand how it works. After all, from understanding this issue Your ability to make changes to it directly depends.

Main diagram of the apartment electrical network

First of all, let's determine how the wiring diagram for an apartment or house is made. Start this scheme takes in the introductory panel.

• So, let's start with the introductory panel. It can be located in the entrance or directly in the apartment. In it you will find an input circuit breaker, which receives a power cable from the general house electrical network. Sometimes instead of a machine there are batch switches or even circuit breakers, but this is mainly in old houses.
• From the input machine the wires go to the meter, and from it to circuit breakers groups. Usually there are two or more of these groups. This amount directly depends on the possible loads in your apartment.
• Group machines share electrical network your apartment or house into several unrelated groups. Groups can be formed according to the nature of the loads or the ease of installation. This is not a fundamental question. The only thing that the instructions prescribe is the division into different groups electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen with electrical appliances in living rooms.
• From group circuit breakers, wires go to one, two or more distribution boxes. They are directly connected to a group network of sockets and switches. This concentration of connections in one place makes it possible to simplify maintenance as much as possible and hide utility networks.

Connecting switches and sockets

In order to determine whether it is possible to connect an outlet from a switch, let's look at the features of their connection to the group supply wire. After all, starting from this, we can clearly imagine our future scheme.

• To connect the socket in accordance with clause 7.1.13 of the PUE, three wires are required. One of them is phase, the second is neutral and the third is protective grounding. These wires according to clause 1.1.30 of the PUE must be marked blue neutral wire, yellow-green protective grounding wire and any other color phase wire.
• The phase and neutral wires from the supply group wire in the distribution box are connected to the power contacts of the socket. Protective grounding to grounding contacts.

• Connecting the switch is even easier to do yourself. After all, this requires only two wires. Moreover, both of them will be phase. The first wire is connected to the phase conductor of the group line and to the switch input.
• The second wire from the switch output goes to the junction box, where it is connected to phase wire lamp The zero of the lamp is connected bypassing the switch, directly in the distribution box to the supply wire.

Changing the purpose of an electrical point and connecting one to another

Now you can consider the issues of replacing a switch with a socket or a socket with a switch, how to route a socket from the switch and vice versa. After all, we know the basics of connecting electrical points and their features.

Let's start with the simplest operation of replacing an outlet with a switch. In order not to be scattered here and in subsequent recommendations, we will provide only the necessary switches, without focusing on the processes of dismantling and installing new equipment.

In addition, we remind you that all connections in the sockets of sockets, switches and distribution boxes should be made only after removing the voltage from this group, as well as from the wires of neighboring groups that may be accidentally touched. The cost of negligence can be very high.

• So, after dismantling the socket, you are left with three wires. One of them is phase, the second is neutral and the third is grounding. You already know how to identify them by color. But better check if it's correct coloration using a voltage indicator as demonstrated in the video.

How to “power” a car radio from a computer power supply?

The main topic is already stated in the title, so let's get straight to the point. So what do we need? First, a working car radio or car CD/MP3 receiver. I happened to have a Panasonic CQ-DFX883N car CD/MP3 receiver in my hands.

Secondly, a computer power supply in AT or ATX format. Nowadays there is a lot of computer hardware from old PCs, including power supplies.

Where can I find it for free or for minimal money?

Pull out your old PC that's collecting dust in the closet;

Buy for pennies at a flea market - these are 100% available on any radio market;

Repair and improve a faulty computer power supply.

For my idea, I bought a second-hand power supply at a flea market.

Before connecting a computer power supply to the car radio, you need to check it and, if necessary, bring it to working condition. More on this a little later, but for now let’s talk about how to connect a car radio to a computer power supply.

Connecting a car radio to a computer power supply.

The computer power supply (PSU) has a healthy harness with output connectors. Black wires are negative or common wire. The yellow ones supply +12V voltage. We won't need the rest of the wires - we won't use them. So we only need to take 12V from the power supply. To do this, take any of the connectors MOLEX or Floppy connector. Next, we bite off the yellow wire (+12V) and the black wire - negative. Then we connect these wires to the power wires of the car radio.

It is worth noting that the +12V output channel is quite powerful and can “supply” a current of 8-10 amperes to the load (with a power supply of 200 - 300 W), which, in fact, is what we need. Typically, the maximum current consumed by a car CD/MP3 receiver is 10-15 amperes. But this is the maximum!

In addition, you need to make some minor modifications if you have an ATX power supply. I'll tell you more about this a little later.

The car radio has 3 wires, to which power is connected (voltage + 12V) from the standard electrical network of the car. The black wire is a minus (in other words, the common wire, “ground”, Ground). The yellow wire is +12V (marked as Battery). These are the main wires for connecting power to the car radio.

But even if we connect these wires to the battery or power supply, we will not turn on the car radio - it will be in standby (“sleep”) mode.

Therefore, we are looking for the red wire (marked ACC) from the car radio and twist it together with yellow wire+12V.

How to turn a cordless screwdriver into a corded one

Normally, the red wire is connected to the car's ignition switch.

As soon as the driver closes the electrical circuit with the ignition key, the car radio automatically switches from sleep mode to working mode - the backlight of the car radio display turns on. In this case, the red wire through the ignition switch is short-circuited to plus +12V. We do this by forcibly connecting the yellow (+12V) and red wires.

In this case, the car radio will turn on immediately when voltage is applied.

Difference between AT and ATX format computer power supplies.

AT format computer units do not have a standby +5 power supply (Standby) and 3.3V output voltages. Therefore, when such a block is turned on, voltage appears immediately at its outputs +12V, +5V, -12V, -5V.

ATX format power supplies have a standby power supply at +5V S.B. (Standby). It always works as long as the power supply is connected to a 220V network. In order for voltages +12V, -12V, +5V, -5V, +3.3V to appear on the output channels, you need to short-circuit the main output connector green And black the wire.

If you want the output voltage to appear immediately after turning on the power supply, you can install a jumper between the green ( Power ON) and black wire. In this case, the power supply will exit the “sleep” mode immediately after applying 220V mains voltage to it.

Restoring a computer power supply.

First, let's try to turn on the power supply. In most cases, used (used or second-hand) power supplies from a PC are usually working, but have some defects (lack of some output voltages, low voltage on one of the channels +12, -12, +5, -5 volts, etc.). Even if the power supply starts up and the fan starts spinning, you should open the power supply case, remove all the dust from it, and unscrew printed circuit board and inspect the contacts for missing connections. If necessary, correct defects.

Before carrying out any work, it is necessary to disconnect the power supply from the 220V network. Also, after this, it will not hurt to forcibly discharge the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors of the input rectifier (220-470 uF * 250V). This can be done by connecting a 100-200 kOhm resistor parallel to the contacts of the capacitor for a few seconds. Naturally, you should not hold the resistor with your fingers - otherwise you can get a slight electric shock.

This operation is necessary because residual electric charge capacitors are dangerous (in operating mode they are 200V!).

If you accidentally touch the capacitor terminals, you can get a slight electric shock. The phenomenon is very unpleasant.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition electrolytic capacitors output rectifiers. If they are swollen or have a broken serif, then they need to be replaced with new ones.

More details about the design of AT format computer power supplies are described here.

To make the power supply look more solid, you can paint it with aerosol spray paint (sold at any auto parts store).

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How to connect a light bulb and switch?

You don't need to be a genius to connect a light bulb and switch. Whether it’s a light bulb and switch in your apartment or a so-called “carrying” for the garage, the only difference is that for “carrying” you don’t need to lay wiring along the walls and ceiling and it is connected with a plug into an outlet.

Marking

It is not for nothing that popular wisdom says that you need to cut only when you have measured 7 times. Therefore, treat the markings with due attention; it is at this moment that you are mentally doing the work, which after that all that remains is to bring to life.

We make notes in the places where the light bulb and switch will be. It should be noted that the switch is usually placed near the door at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor, that is, at the height of a freely lowered arm. But you shouldn’t take everything literally, if all the switches in your corridor are set to a height of 1.7 meters, then yours at 0.8 will clearly fall out of the overall picture.

Make sure that when you open the door, it does not obscure the switch; it will not be convenient to use. Also mark the routes for future wiring. The wiring should go from the switch to the distribution box (or socket, if you will power the circuit from it) and from the light bulb to the same distribution box (socket). When marking, stick to important rules: When placing wiring near other walls and ceilings, make a distance of about 20 centimeters from them. Make sure that the wires are positioned only horizontally and vertically, so that they bend at right angles. Please note that in load-bearing walls grooves must be of minimum depth and size. You should make sure that there is no old wiring in it, read how to detect it.

Scoring (if necessary)

Next comes the unpleasant process of gating. To prevent your interior from being spoiled in the future by wires laid on top of the wallpaper, they can be hidden in the walls by first making special recesses in the latter - grooves. I will not go deeper into this topic, because... In the article I want to focus specifically on the electrical part of the issue. I will only note that in your case the walls may be made of different materials(concrete or drywall), the switch can be internal, which must be recessed into the wall, or overhead. All this will directly affect the volume and method of gating. Without the proper experience and tools, it is better to lay the cable over the walls, securing it with plastic brackets.

Wiring installation

Now we need a two-core wire, which we lay in pre-made grooves. The easiest way to fix them there would be with a diluted alabaster solution.

It should be remembered that this binder sets very quickly, so you will have to act quickly. We cut the wires with a margin, we will always have time to shorten them!

Chuck and switch

When the wiring process is completed, you should connect the switch itself and the socket. This will not be difficult; you just need to remove about five centimeters of the primary insulation and strip the cores themselves by about a centimeter. Then place them in the connectors specially provided on the switch and base, and press them with a screwdriver. There are only two contacts in the switch for one light bulb, so you can’t go wrong. When connecting the cartridge, polarity does not matter, i.e. It doesn’t matter where you throw the phase and where you put the zero, the light bulb will work. However, safety precautions require that the phase be on the central contact of the light bulb, and zero on the threaded one.

Connection diagram

Connection to distribution box

Now begins the most exciting process - connecting your wiring to the junction box. If you know where the source is electric current to which you can connect, then this is already good, otherwise the search for a junction box may take a long time.

To connect the wiring directly to the electrical panel through an additional circuit breaker, use the instructions for installing the circuit breaker in the panel and connect the cable to it. By the way, you can power the circuit from a nearby outlet; this is not prohibited. If you plan to “carry”, then, of course, everything is solved by connecting the plug to the end of the wire.

To begin with, using indicator screwdriver let's define power wire(phase) and zero in the distribution box or socket. If you have never held an indicator screwdriver in your hands, then here is an article on how to use it. Was your electrician decent? Then the colors of the wires must match: brown or white - phase, and blue - zero. Old wiring, of course, does not contain colored wires and can look like anything. In this case, you will have to rely only on the readings of the indicator screwdriver. If you don’t have a special clearance group (and most likely you don’t, otherwise you wouldn’t be reading this article), working under open voltage is strictly prohibited! Therefore, you should unscrew the plugs, turn off the machines, and use the same indicator to make sure that the power wire is de-energized.

We power the switch through a phase, that is, we connect the power wire to the white or brown wire that comes from the switch, and we connect the zero to the blue wire that comes from the light bulb, as in the diagram. We connect the remaining white and blue wires that go, respectively, to the light bulb and switch.

Radio communication

We carefully insulate all twists using electrical tape. If you want to expand your circuit by connecting an additional light bulb or, for example, adding a socket, you can use a double or triple switch, here is how to do this.

Twisting aluminum and copper wires it is forbidden! This is an extremely unstable compound that quickly oxidizes and can not only fail, but also ignite. To connect such wires, use special terminal blocks. In an electrical store they are presented in a wide range. According to the rules good manners and for safety reasons, try to use pads everywhere instead of twisting wires.

If you did everything right, you can be proud of your work. If not... well, finally call an electrician.

I really hope that the article will be useful to you and that everything will work out for you. Perhaps I forgot to say something important that seems self-evident to me and not at all clear to you. Therefore, I will wait for your comments below and will be happy to answer questions, supplement and correct the article if necessary. Thank you for your attention!

Electrical wiring of any room, be it huge Vacation home or small outbuilding(basement, garage, country house), includes three main elements - a switch, a socket and a light bulb. While they remain relevant always and everywhere. During repairs, construction or redevelopment, you will definitely encounter them. Therefore, basic knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous - what is the connection diagram for a switch and socket, how does it work and what materials and tools will be required for its installation?

Below are detailed step by step instructions, with their guidance, even an inexperienced electrician will be able to install sockets and switches with his own hands.

What is needed to switch the circuit?

Electrical wiring can be open or hidden. In this article we will consider the connection of sockets and switches made according to the second option, when all electrical switching is hidden under a layer of plaster. Hidden design is the most common type of electrical wiring; open wiring is usually used as a temporary option.

Preparing the walls

Before connecting a socket and switch in the room, you need to prepare holes in the wall for their installation and grooves in which the wires will be laid. There should be three holes in total - for the junction box and for the connected switching devices.

It’s better to draw an approximate drawing on a piece of paper in advance, where exactly you plan to connect the switch and socket, and what route the wires will take to these places.

The hole for the distribution box is made, as a rule, under the ceiling, 10-15 cm lower. Holes for switching devices are made at the site of their planned installation. It is better to mount the socket at a distance of 30 cm from the clean floor, where people will connect to it Appliances. It is advisable to install the switch at the entrance to the room at the level of an adult’s lowered hand - about 90 cm from the clean floor. These works are performed with an electric drill with a special bit for brick or concrete, a hammer drill with Pobedit drill, impact drill or an angle grinder.

When installing gates, consider several important rules:

1. They can only be horizontal or vertical; no tilting is allowed.
2. The entire path of the groove from the distribution box to the installation sites of the socket and switch must pass with a minimum number of turns.
3. Vertical grooves should not be brought closer to window or doorways less than 10 cm, and to gas pipes- less than 40 cm.

To install the grooves, you can use a hammer and chisel, a hammer drill, a grinder or special tool wall chaser.

When all the holes and grooves are ready, thoroughly clean them of dust using a vacuum cleaner.

Installation elements and tools

To perform the electrical part of the work you will need the following materials and tools:

• distribution (socket) box, in which all wires are connected;
• two plastic or polypropylene mounting boxes (socket boxes), they are needed in order to securely fasten the switching devices in the wall openings;
• socket indoor installation;
• indoor switch with one key;
• lighting fixture;
• set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
• knife or stripper for removing insulation from conductors;
• pliers with insulated handles;
• clamps or insulating tape;
• indicator screwdriver.

To switch the entire electrical circuit, you will also need a two-core wire. Nowadays, electrical goods stores offer a huge assortment of wires and cables, so immediately buy one so that each core has its own colored insulation, for example, red and blue. This will make it easier to switch the circuit; you won’t have to look for phase and zero with instruments, you’ll just need to connect wires of the same color.

In order to fix the wires laid in the grooves, you will also need alabaster and a spatula.

Connection diagram

The electrical circuit represents a parallel connection to the power source of a lighting fixture with a light bulb, a switch and a socket.

Preparatory work

Before starting any electrical work, secure your work area. Turn off the opening machine for the apartment. It’s good if it is already at the entrance to the apartment, that is, you will be sure that by turning it off, no one will be able to turn the machine back on. In case automatic device is located landing in the common panel, turn off the machine in your apartment and hang up a sign “Do not turn on!” or put someone in control. You can't joke with electricity!

After turning off the machine, you need to once again make sure that there is no voltage, now using an indicator screwdriver. First, check its working condition in an area that is known to be energized, for example, at the entrance to the machine. The indicator lights up after touching the phase, which means it is in good condition. Now touch indicator screwdriver There should be no glow to the conductors of the supply wire, which is brought into the apartment from the machine. This means that the tension has been relieved and work can begin.

Lay the wires in the grooves made, leading them to the wall holes. At the same time, leave the ends of 10-15 cm for cutting the cores, do not regret it, it is better to make a slightly larger reserve than to suffer later when connecting and connecting. Install a distribution box and socket boxes in the holes; use plaster or alabaster to securely fix them.

Electric installation work

Place a two-wire cable from the mains supply (phase and neutral) into the junction box. Three wires must be laid from the box: one to the switch, the second to the lamp, the third to the outlet.

For a wire whose cores have different insulation colors, red indicates the phase, Blue colour- zero.

The switch has an input and output contact; a phase conductor is connected to the input. Connect the second core to the output contact of the switch.

A two-wire wire must also be laid to the lamp. The lamp socket has two contacts. The central spring contact (phase) is used to directly supply voltage to the light bulb. The side contact in the socket is zero, the lamp will come into contact with it after screwing in with its base.

Another two-wire wire is laid from the junction box to the outlet. This switching device has a contact part consisting of two terminals to which phase and zero are connected.

The connection diagram for the switch, lamp and socket in the distribution box is as follows:

1. Connect the neutral conductor from the supply wire with the neutral conductors going to the lamp and socket.
2. Connect the phase conductor from the supply wire with the phase conductors going to the switch and socket.
3. Connect the remaining core from the output contact of the switch to the phase core of the lamp.

All connections must be made as firmly as possible to ensure reliable contact. This can be done the old fashioned way - by twisting, which it is also advisable to solder on top. There are also more modern devices: special blocks (in which the wire is clamped under a screw) or PPE (connecting insulating clamps).

For more information about connecting wires in a junction box, watch this video:

Checking the circuit and completing the work

Move all the twists in different directions so that they do not touch each other and check the operation of the assembled circuit. Turn on the input circuit breaker for the apartment, thereby supplying voltage from the power source to the newly mounted distribution box. The switch is in the “off” position, the lamp does not light, which means everything is correct, the phase is open. Now press the switch key to the "on" position, electrical circuit closes and through it voltage is supplied from the power source to the lamp, the light bulb lights up. There will be constant voltage at the outlet; you can check its operation by connecting any electrical appliance. Plug in plug hairdryer, radio or electric kettle and check its operation.

Now turn off the input circuit breaker again and securely insulate the twisted areas with electrical tape; you can also put PVC pipes on top. Carefully place all the connected wires in the box so that it can then be closed with a lid.

All that remains is to securely place the switch and socket in the socket boxes, secure them, and put protective covers on top. The junction box is also closed with a lid, in case of any repair work never hide it under wallpaper or plaster. Remember, the junction box must always be accessible, no matter how much it spoils general form your room.

Very important! Before connecting the switch, make sure that you are connecting exactly the phase conductor to its input contact, and do not confuse it with the neutral conductor. Switching device should only work to break the phase. Otherwise, voltage will always be present in the lamp socket, even when the switch is in the off position. And this creates the danger of getting under voltage when simply replacing a burnt out light bulb.

Also keep in mind that if the lighting fixture and socket are structurally grounded, then their electrical circuit will require a three-core wire. The same wire of three cores should also come to the junction box from the power source. Typically the ground conductor is indicated by green or yellow, in the same way, in the box you will need to connect three protective grounding wires into one twist - from the power source, socket and lamp.

Other scheme options

In a similar way, you can connect a socket, a two-key switch and two groups from one power source lighting fixtures. In this case, the distribution box will receive two wires from two output contacts of the switch and two phase conductors from the lamps. The same as in the example described above, only there will be one more twist in the box.

If you need to install a three-key switch and three groups of lamps, then three wires from the three output contacts of the switch and three phase conductors from the lighting devices will arrive in the distribution box. There will be 5 twists in total in the box:

• Zero supply network with zero wires of the socket and lamp.
• Power supply phase with phase conductors of socket and switch.
• And three twists phase wires, extending from each switch key and group of lamps.

In case of protective grounding another twist will be added. Sometimes it can be quite problematic to arrange twisted wires in a junction box. Now on the electrical goods market you can select options specifically designed for placement in them. large quantity wires and cables.

This is how you can easily connect a socket and a switch from one junction box. The main thing is to try to understand this very simple scheme. And then everything further electrical circuits will be clear to you. As a result, you will get quite a decent cost savings on calling a professional electrician.