Transplanting peonies in spring to another place. How to replant peonies correctly? When is the best time to do this? How to replant peonies in summer? Caring for peonies transplanted in spring

Of course, in order to have beautiful peony bushes on your site, you can purchase planting material in flower shops or at exhibitions. But it is much easier to breed peonies yourself - as practice shows, it is not at all difficult.

There are several ways to propagate peonies: root cuttings, pruning method, vertical or partial layering, dividing the bush, as well as by forming a young rhizome directly above the old one. This material is devoted to how to propagate peonies in spring and other times.

How and when to divide a peony bush?

When starting to propagate bushes, you need to decide when to divide peonies: The best time for this procedure in central Russia is considered to be the period from August 10 to August 30.

After the soil temperature drops to 12-15 °C, the suction roots, and with more later digging, they will die when dividing. In these optimal timing It is recommended to divide peonies, even if you plan to plant them at the end of September and later. It is better to keep the division in moss or sand in a cool place, protected from rain, before planting (even a month or more). You can start dividing even earlier, in the first ten days of August, and then continue the division as long as necessary. In the south, the division of peonies shifts to a later time, and in the northern regions, to an earlier time in accordance with the permissible planting dates.

In order to divide a peony bush, as practice shows, the plant must reach a certain age and grow sufficiently in the ground. Delenki from a 3-year-old peony rhizome and delenki from a 4-year-old peony rhizome are distinguished by more developed storage roots.

The most suitable for division are young plants 3-5 years old that have flowered twice. Peonies at this age have accumulated a sufficient supply of nutrients, promoting the normal development of the division in a new place. Young plants are still easy to dig up, easy to divide, and the divisions look the most attractive. This work is within the capabilities of every gardener; 5-7 year old bushes, although they will give more planting material, but will require significant physical effort to dig.

Before dividing the peony, count the number of stems: there should be at least 8-9 of them. And the circumference occupied by the stems near the ground should exceed 8-9 cm. If the stems are brought together in a circumference of less than 6-7 cm, such a rhizome often cannot be divided into several parts, and it is better to wait another year.

Two shovels are needed for digging: one with a bayonet, and the second with a curved blade, pruning shears, a sharp large knife and two buckets. You should also prepare labels with the name of the variety in advance. Excavation is carried out on a dry day and, if possible, after a dry period when the earth crumbles easily.

The stems at a height of approximately 10 cm above ground level are cut with pruning shears, chopped, placed in the first bucket, and root trimmings are collected in the second. Having retreated 25 cm from the stems, the plant is dug around with a bayonet shovel to a depth of 35-50 cm, depending on the size of the root system. Any long roots that come across are carefully cut with a knife (secateurs): they break off easily.

Using a shovel with a curved blade, dig up the peony from below, cutting off the roots remaining below. Carefully remove the plant from the ground and, placing it on its side, carefully remove excess soil with a sharp rod. Then, also carefully, immediately cut the roots to 10-15 cm in length. If possible, wash the rhizome with a stream from a hose or watering can.

Then attach a label and take it to a shady and well-ventilated place until the evening. If there is no water for rinsing, you can leave the plant to dry in a cool shed protected from precipitation, proceeding directly to pre-drying.

In the evening, they are transferred to a closed, cool room and stored there for 2-3 days, placing them on film or cardboard. If the air temperature is high, you can cover the dug-up plants with burlap or similar woven material. For longer periods of time before dividing the plant, the covering fabric should be periodically sprayed with a weak light pink solution of potassium permanganate from a spray bottle, or the fabric should be periodically moistened in this solution, squeezing out excess moisture.

To divide a peony bush you will need a table covered with film, planed wooden block 8X50X4 cm. Grafting type knives, a knife with a thick and sharpened blade, a scalpel, chisels, a hammer, brushes (toothbrushes and clothes brushes with hard bristles), a jar of ash, a box of moss.

The division process itself is the most difficult and crucial moment. And is learned and improved with personal experience. However, some rules help him master it faster and successfully.

Remains of stems are removed completely to the base. First of all, the remaining long storage roots are cut to 8-12 cm, intertwined roots are removed and thin roots, 1 cm thick or less, are shortened to 3-5 cm. To divide a peony bush as experienced gardeners advise, you need to completely remove most the old root with which the plant was planted. It usually differs in thickness and color (darker). Carefully inspect the peony from all sides. They estimate how many sections it can be divided into and where the cutting lines will be. Taking it with both hands, try to bend it into a shape without much effort. different directions: Sometimes you can feel that it can be easily divided into 2 parts with one cut. After this, further division becomes simple.

The general rule for propagating peonies by dividing the bush: first separate what is clear and simple, then the order of further division will become clear to you.

It is often easy to separate a division attached to the side or top of the rest of the rhizome: start with that. Once you separate it, you will see what you can separate further. If the initial choice is difficult (this often happens with a large rhizome), you have to cut the rhizome in half through the center using chisels and a hammer.

Then clean the cuttings of rotten parts, sprinkle all the cut areas with ash (it’s convenient to use a toothbrush for this) and attach labels with the name of the variety. Place the cuttings in a box with slightly moistened moss and store in it until planting for at least 2-3 days. In such conditions, cuttings can be stored for 2 months or more, and in well-packed postal items they endure long trips across the country (and even abroad) lasting more than a month.

Watch the video “Propagation of peonies by dividing a bush” to better understand how this procedure is performed:

Peony propagation by pruning

Sometimes the pruning method is called the Kästner method. This method was actively studied in the 1970-1980s. in the GBS of the USSR Academy of Sciences, it is suitable for milky-flowered peonies aged more than 6-7 years with the number of stems on a bush of at least 30.

Carry out in the usual time frame for dividing peonies, in the second half of August, in dry weather. They operate in the following sequence.

Before propagating peonies by pruning, the stems are cut at a height of 10 cm above the ground. The mother plant is dug in a circle, slightly retreating from the stems. Dig a groove of such a depth that the top of the rhizome with part of the renewal buds 2-3 cm above the outcrop becomes visible. Usually, a groove depth of 6-8 cm is sufficient for this. On one side, the groove is made wider so that a shovel can be horizontally placed in it. Use a shovel with a sharp, sharpened blade, preferably a curved one. The shovel is inserted into the widened part of the groove and the entire exposed part of the rhizome is cut off with a horizontal movement. The cut part breaks up into small non-standard divisions with 1-2 renewal buds. The cuts on the cuttings are rubbed with ash and placed for 2-3 days in a box with moss, like regular cuttings.

Then the divisions are planted in well-filled soil, densely, according to a 20X30 cm pattern. After growing, after 2 years they are transplanted with a lump of earth onto permanent place. All cuts on the mother plant are sprinkled with ash and covered for 2-3 days from rain. After this, add soil above the mother plant to the previous level. On next year, with normal growth of the stems, dig up the entire plant. Usually it easily breaks down into separate pieces. But often, after the first cutting, due to numerous wounds, the plant can rot and die.

A modification of this method can be considered the “partial trimming” method. It was invented and applied by A.K. Kolpakov. From the side, part of the rhizome is exposed to the depth of the usual cutting - 6-8 cm and 2-3 small non-standard cuttings with buds are cut off. Places of cuts on the mother liquor are sprinkled with ash, and then, after drying, with earth.

Reproduction and care of peonies: how to propagate bushes using root cuttings

The method of propagating peonies by root cuttings without buds is based on the ability of some varieties, from peony officinalis (and from) to form buds directly on sections of roots. When dividing peonies to produce buds, root cuttings from storage roots are prepared in the fall from waste roots of varieties capable of forming such buds. Either they cut off parts of the roots from the acquired cuttings (also in the fall or in early spring), which had an excess mass of storage roots. Many people lay buds in the fall when stored in a plastic bag with moss under cover. They can be planted in beds in the first autumn. Sometimes I store cuttings in a bag with moss underground during the winter.

The best parts are from storage roots 3-4 years old, at least 18-20 mm thick and 6-7 to 15 cm long.

The roots are cut into pieces of 7 cm or a little more. Rub the cuts with ash and place them by grade in plastic bags with moss, label the bags. Store for a month or more under the same conditions as the cuttings.

It is better to choose a semi-shaded place for planting, especially during the daytime. Prepare nutritious soil and lay it to a depth of 30 cm. The roots by variety are laid horizontally on a thin sandy cushion, dusted with ash and covered with light loose soil, 3-4 cm thick. I mark the plantings. Pre-planting wetting of root sections with one of the preparations that promote root formation is useful. Concentrations and methods of use are indicated in the accompanying instructions. When planting in autumn, for the first winter, an additional shelter made of non-rotting materials, 10 cm high, is installed. From cuttings with awakened buds, shoots appear in the first spring or summer. From cuttings with unawakened buds, shoots may appear in the 2nd and even 3rd year after planting.

For valuable varieties, the following method is used: cuttings with unawakened buds are not planted in the ground in the fall, but winter period they are placed in a cold but not freezing underground: root cuttings of some varieties formed buds over the winter; in the spring they can be planted in the ground using the described method. Their shoots appear in the same year in the summer.

When propagating peonies, care consists of watering in hot weather, mulching the plantings, and, most importantly, preventive measures against botrytis.

There have been cases when buds appeared on the roots already in the fall, when the preparations were stored in bags.

To propagate peonies by root cuttings, as practice shows, it is better to use the following varieties:

Variety "Carol"

Variety "Red Grace"

Variety "Ellen Cowley"

Variety "Cytheria"

Variety "Karina"

Variety "Charismatic"

Variety "Palladia"

Variety "Rosedale"

Variety "Cameo Lallabai"

Variety "Good Cheer" or coral hybrids.

This video shows the propagation of peonies by root cuttings:

Propagation of peonies by stem cuttings

The method of vertical stem cuttings is based on stimulating upward growth of the rhizome and the formation of new buds at the tips. Suitable for varieties of milkweed over 6-7 years old, the same as for the pruning method.

In the described propagation method, after the sprouts appear, a continuous fence (a box without a bottom), 20-25 cm high, is installed around the mother plant, which is filled with light soil as the shoots grow. The soil is periodically moistened. The buds must be removed. At the beginning of September, the fence is removed, the poured soil is removed and the plant is carefully exposed to the upper buds. Layerings - the newly formed upper sections of the rhizome with a bud at the base are cut off from the plant at the point of their connection with the old part of the rhizome. The resulting cuttings are planted in a garden bed for growing according to the same scheme as in the pruning method. The operation should be carried out in a dry time, the cuts should be sprinkled with ash and protected from precipitation for 2-3 days.

The most important advantage of the method of propagating peonies by stem cuttings is obtaining healthy plants with a completely renewed rhizome and root system without old tissues, that is, a complete renewal of the peony.

But there is another side to the coin: the resulting cuttings are very weak, in the first winter there is a noticeable loss of some of them; it takes a lot of time to grow. The mother plant's normal physiological cycle is disrupted (it has not bloomed), and in the future it may stop blooming due to the consequences of burial. Numerous “wounds” will long affect the development of the plant, its health and flowering in subsequent years.

Reproduction of peonies by partial layering

For decreasing negative consequences using the vertical layering method, you can use a modification of this method. The partial layering method is the most suitable for obtaining cuttings from an old plant without digging it up and with a minimum of damage to it. The essence of the changes is as follows: I install a fence, 30-35 cm high, only over part of the mother plant, taking into account the planned number of divisions, preferably on the south side.

The fence is left over the plant for two years. In the first year, I fill the fenced part with 10-15 cm of soil. I remove buds only from the stems that fall into the fence. The rest of the plant blooms as usual.
The advantages of the method of propagating peonies by layering are obvious: the flowering of the mother plant is not interrupted, and due to the small number of cuts, the negative consequences for the mother bush are significantly reduced.
The cuttings obtained in the fall of the second year are close in size to small cuttings, and some of them can be immediately planted in a permanent place without growing. Let me add to this that such cuttings have great energy growth and by the autumn of the first year after planting they catch up in growth with normal standard divisions of the same age.
Reproduction of peonies using the Shlomin method
Another modification of the vertical layering method was developed and used by G. K. Shlomin.
The author began to conduct his experiment in the spring of 1982 with two-year-old bushes of the Vechernyaya Moscow and Cruiser Aurora varieties. He put on the shoots high cans, open on both sides. As the shoots grew, I poured nutritious soil made up of rotted manure, river sand and black soil into the jars, and periodically watered it with water. During the growing season, I watered the young plants twice. weak solution heteroauxin (1 tablet per 2 liters of water).
To prevent the jars from overheating, I wrapped them in cardboard and plastic film(from the sides, like a thermos, the top was left open). In autumn the shoots formed a good root system. In September I cut them under the banks, at the base of the mother plants.
I planted the cuttings with a clod of earth in a permanent place in the soil, watered them well and mulched them with rotted manure (5-7 cm). With the onset of frost, it was insulated with peat chips (10 cm).

In early spring, I removed the cover, carefully and shallowly loosened the ground around the bushes, and under each bush added half a bucket of raw manure mixed with 100 g wood ash, 100 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium nitrate.
The bushes have developed well. In the summer of next year, some even appeared flower buds, but they were removed.
This method allows you to quickly propagate valuable varieties.
All varieties of the vertical layering method are applicable only for lactiferous peonies!

Cutting off part of the rhizome, without digging up the mother plant. This method is used in cases where it is necessary to big bush getting a small number of cuttings, 2-3 pieces, and digging up the entire bush for them is impractical.
Carry out in the time periods usual for dividing varieties. A dry day is chosen for the operation. Carefully dig up and expose a part of the rhizome (to the depth of the roots), intended for separation from the mother plant. Using a sharpened bayonet shovel, the intended fragment is separated vertically and removed from the ground. An analogy with how one cuts a piece from a round cake is appropriate here. Cuts on the mother plant are sprinkled with ash, and the damaged part is covered from rain for several days. Then the resulting empty space is filled with fertile soil with chemical fertilizers.

This method is used only in as a last resort. It is ineffective: little planting material is obtained, and the waste is large. The remaining part of the bush is sick and takes a long time to restore its decorative properties.
How to divide an old peony bush
Dividing an old plant without first digging it up. It is used in a situation where it is physically impossible to dig up and completely remove the peony from the ground or this will require enormous labor costs. In this case, the extraction of the underground part is carried out sequentially in parts. The beginning of the operation to propagate old peonies by division completely coincides with the previous case: cutting off part of the bush without digging up the mother plant. After removing the first piece from the ground, you continue cutting your “round cake”. But the work is made easier: additional side surface, and separating the next piece will be easier and more efficient. And so, one by one, they cut and remove all the pieces of the “cake.”
The method of forming a young rhizome over an old one. When digging up an old peony, it most often happens that normal, standard sections cannot be obtained. Their appearance is completely unsightly, there are no young storage roots, and their quality is questionable, which is often confirmed later during cultivation.

Considering the ability of the rhizome to accelerate upward growth, when it was covered with soil, a method was tested to form the young part of the rhizome above the old one, in a new embankment. top layer land. This method was tested on varieties of milky peony.
Usually the old one is chosen and it’s already bad flowering plant. 3-5 cm of fertile soil with ash is poured above and around it for 4-5 years in a row. As a result, the rhizome accelerates upward growth, and its upper part acquires a characteristic multi-peaked shape, similar to mountain peaks, on which most of the renewal buds are formed.
To consolidate the knowledge gained, watch the video “How to propagate peonies”:

Peonies are a favorite among gardeners. Unpretentious, resistant to drought and frost, they delight with their flowers for two months.

This is a plant of the perennial genus herbaceous plants. In total, more than six thousand varieties of these flowers are known, about 40 of them grow in Russia. These plants are used to decorate parks and flower beds, and some species are used in folk medicine.

Popular types and varieties of peonies

Due to the variety of flowers, peonies are divided into five groups:

Simple (have two rows of petals).
Japanese (two rows of petals, modified stamens in the center).
Semi-double (more than three rows of petals).
Anemone-like (transitional form of peony).
Terry (they have many subspecies - crowned, three-tiered, hemispherical, rose-shaped).

If desired, you can plant peonies by variety so that they bloom from late May to September in turn. The evasive peony will bloom first in the spring; at the very end of May, the medicinal peony, Whitman's peony (variety “Ballerina”) will bloom.

In June, such as the mountain peony will bloom in turn, various varieties Peony officinalis and its hybrids.

They begin to bloom in July late varieties, which will please the eye for about two months.

It is worth noting that Russian breeders have developed many varieties of peony specifically for middle zone Russia and Siberia. These are “Lomonosov”, “Irina”, “Vladimir Mayakovsky”, “Peter the Great” and others.

Planting and replanting peonies

Peonies can be grown and replanted in the following ways:

root cuttings;
stem cuttings;
dividing the bush;
rooting of shoots;
seeds.

Growing by seeds

Collection and sowing of seeds can begin in mid-August. If you plant seeds in the ground in August, they will take root. In the spring, the seed will send out roots, and after a season in the spring, shoots will appear.

With this growing method, the plant will bloom only after 4-5 years. Planting by seeds is used by breeders to develop new varieties.

Transplantation and propagation by division

The most popular method of propagating and replanting peonies is division. To do this, you need to cut the stems of the plant at a level of 15-20 cm from the ground, carefully dig out the bush so as not to damage the roots. Next, you need to carefully remove the roots from the soil and leave them in the open air for a while.

The next stage is the removal of diseased and rotten parts of the rhizome. Old roots are trimmed slightly at an angle of 45 degrees. The bush is divided in half, and each part is divided into two or three parts. You can transplant the divisions to a new location.

There should be at least three eyes on each divided part. It is also advisable to preserve small rhizomes. After such a section, there are usually many roots left without buds. You can plant them too. The roots are cut into pieces 10-12 cm and planted to a depth of 3-5 cm.

Peonies should not be replanted in the spring, because for the flower to fully develop, it must go through two phases:

warm. The transplanted plant or seeds should be in the ground at a temperature of 16-20 degrees for about two weeks;
cold. Now the plant needs cold, which will stop growth and allow it to get a strong and beautiful plant in the spring

Transplanting peony cuttings

Ten days before flowering begins in the morning, you need to cut off one stem at the root. The cutting is made from the lower part, less often - from the middle. A cut is made along the oblique under the bottom sheet, and the sheet itself is cut off. The top sheet is left, but shortened by a third. An incision is also made above it.

The finished cutting is placed in water for a day, then planted in a box so that the cutting is in the ground at an angle of 40-45 degrees. The place where the bottom sheet was should be deep in the ground.

Greenhouse conditions are created for the cuttings, and the first ten days are intensively sprayed. After the cutting has given roots, the greenhouse is opened.

Replanting peonies with layering

In spring, the bush is abundantly hilled. The height of the ground should be about 30 cm. In this case, the plant will develop a little slower. The buds must be pinched, and the bush itself must be watered abundantly. By the end of August, young developed roots will appear on each stem. They are cut and planted. The soil is mulched and insulated with hay or leaves.

Is it possible to plant peonies in spring?

But what to do if the peony root was purchased in the spring? Typically, the roots of a plant planted in August begin to grow actively in the spring, when the snow has not yet melted. Therefore, the sooner the root should be planted, the better.

You can use a pot or box that will be on cold veranda or balcony. Optimal temperature for root germination is +2 degrees. When shoots appear, the plant is provided good lighting and fertilizing (until transplanting to a permanent place in the garden). The place for planting peonies should be sunny, without close proximity to trees. If a peony grows in the shade, it will not bloom.

For peonies, soil moisture and good drainage are important. From excess moisture, the roots begin to hurt and rot. Fertile and loamy soils are best suited; peat soil is not suitable at all. The roots of the plant can reach a meter, so the hole should be dug at least 70 cm in depth and the same in diameter. The bushes should be located at a considerable distance from each other, because over time the bushes grow greatly.

The rhizome needs to be replanted so that the buds are covered with a layer of soil 5-7 cm thick. If planted deeper, the peony will not bloom. After planting or replanting, the soil is pressed down and covered a little with sawdust or compost.

In the first year young plant It's better not to let it bloom. Flowers are picked. This is done in order to strengthen the root system of the plant. You need to fertilize the soil before planting. Peonies do not require feeding for the next 3-6 years. You just need to loosen the soil and weed the weeds.

For diseases, bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture no more than 1%, in early spring for gray rot, and closer to September, when flowering is over, for spots on the leaves.

After autumn frosts, the bushes fall apart. At this time, they should be cut off at the root and the tops burned. If the bush is no longer young, you need to add more soil from above. The peony root grows from above, so there is a danger of freezing.

The peony is not blooming. What are the reasons

There can be many options:

the plant is old and requires replanting and rejuvenation;
the bush is too young;
the soil under the peony is oversaturated with moisture;
due to illiterate replanting (many roots, few buds, and vice versa); the bush will bloom, but not immediately;
the plant is planted in the shade;
the peony was oversaturated with fertilizers;
the plant was transplanted in the spring;
acidic soil;
lack of potassium in the soil;
The bush is pruned before frost.

What fertilizers can be used for peony

In the first year after planting, peonies are demanding in terms of nutrition and soil fertilization. Fertilizer is applied for the first time in the spring after the peonies have sprouted.
The soil is fertilized a second time during the formation of buds.
The third time is when the peonies bloom.
The fourth time the soil is fed after flowering.

Nitrogen-based fertilizers are applied the first three times to support growth. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied in the fall. You can fertilize the soil organic fertilizers: mullein, compost. It is important that the soil is moist during the fertilizing period.

Starting from the second year, peonies do not need feeding. You can limit yourself to loosening the soil. The series of fertilizing should be repeated after several years if the soil is fertile.

Peonies do not cause much trouble; they can be planted in a flower garden, in a flower bed, on a balcony, and even in a pot on a windowsill.

peony is a symbol of longevity among many peoples of the world;
in the eighteenth century, Parisians paid huge amounts of money for Siberian fragrant peony;
in the Land of the Rising Sun, peonies are a symbol of modesty, good luck and nobility;
in the states of South Asia, on the contrary, it is a symbol of pride and vanity;
there is an opinion that the name of the flower comes from the name of the doctor Peon, who treated his patients with this plant;
during the Second World War, despite the blockade famine, in Botanical Garden Leningrad continued to carefully care for peonies. And as soon as the blockade was lifted, they bloomed again;
China and Japan celebrate the Peony Festival, which falls at the end of June;
In ancient times, in these countries, peonies in the imperial gardens had their leaves washed with a special brush. Men were forbidden to care for flowers. Girls from wealthy families were hired;
Peony is the symbol of the American state of Indiana.

They can only be replanted in the fall, this makes it easier for them to take root in a new place, and in the spring strong, healthy bushes will grow. But practice shows that transplanting peonies to another place in the spring also gives positive results, only the plants will require more attention: changeable spring weather can complicate establishment.

It should be taken into account that peonies generally do not like to be transplanted, especially at the wrong time for this, so we must try to create all the necessary conditions for them in the new place.

When choosing, pay attention to some key factors.

Where to choose a place to transplant a peony in the spring?

The gardener should carefully consider the choice of site so that the transplanted peony bush can become powerful and durable, long time delight its owner with abundant flowering.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account:

the site is chosen to be sunny or slightly shaded in the evening (lighting by morning rays is especially favorable for peony);
groundwater should not lie less than 1 m, since peony roots grow up to a meter long;
Digging of the soil is done deeply and thoroughly, all perennial weeds are removed;
most best composition the soil is loam, so heavy, dense soil must be diluted with sand, and clay must be added to the sandy soil, and a nutrient composition must also be added;
It is advisable that there are no buildings near the growth of peonies, the walls of which, when heated, will contribute to overheating of the flowers;
there should also be no trees or tall shrubs nearby that would take away moisture and nutrition from the peonies;
plants do not tolerate acidic soil; ash will need to be added when preparing the hole, or dolomite flour.

It is preferable to choose an area protected from the wind, so that when there are gusts, large buds do not break and fall off prematurely.

Preparing to transplant peonies

You can begin replanting peonies in the spring to another place after the snow has melted and the night temperature has reached no lower than zero, and the daytime temperature has reached 10 degrees.

Experts say that a hole must be dug deep and wide enough, 60x60, to fill drainage layer, and on top add a sufficient amount of light 3-4 year old humus (10 l), compost (5 l), bone or dolomite meal (300 g), superphosphate (100 g).

A layer of structured soil (peat, turf soil, clay or sand, compost in equal quantities) is poured on top, compacted, and watered abundantly. The peony root system develops slowly; for the first 3-4 years it will obtain food in the surface layers of humus. It is recommended to prepare the hole for planting 2 weeks in advance so that the soil settles and compacts well.

The process of replanting peonies

Peony roots are very fragile; you will have to dig very carefully so as not to damage them. It is better to do this with a pitchfork, digging up the ground around the bush at some distance without damaging the overgrown tubers. The earth is loosened with a pitchfork near the root so that it can be pulled out without resistance.

When replanting in spring, the rhizome does not need to be washed under running water and disinfected; the bush also cannot be divided - this is a feature of spring replanting. The dug up plant is carefully transferred to a new place, placed in a hole, covered with a layer of earth, simultaneously compacting it. You should make sure that the buds are buried no more than 4-5cm, otherwise they will not bloom. The transplanted plant needs to be watered abundantly.

Along with replanting, old bushes are rejuvenated by slightly pruning the rhizome, especially the upper part. This procedure is optional; the gardener needs to determine from the condition of the bush whether there is such a need.

A distance of one to one and a half meters is maintained between the bushes so that they have enough space to grow. Since transplanting peonies to another place in the spring is stressful for the plants, they may not bloom this year.

Along with replanting, old bushes are sometimes rejuvenated by slightly pruning the rhizome, especially the upper part.

Caring for peony bushes transplanted in spring

It doesn’t take much time to care for the flowers; they need infrequent but abundant watering and loosening the soil around the bush. By making care easier, the gardener can achieve moisture retention, the soil remains loose, the root system does not overheat, and weed growth is suppressed.

The first year there is no need for fertilizing if landing hole fertilizers were applied.

Transplanting peonies in the spring sometimes leads to wilting of the lower leaves; it is advisable to pinch them right away before they are affected by disease.

If, however, buds appear on the bushes during the year of planting, it is better to cut them off, giving the plant the opportunity to fully take root and grow stronger.

VIDEO: how to plant peonies in spring?

In this video you will learn about general rules spring planting peonies, including the preparation of the hole, which is necessary before transplanting:

Mid August - best time in the conditions of the middle zone for dividing, planting and transplanting peonies to a new location. Gardeners who did not replant because they did not know how and when to replant peonies will gain a lot of useful information from this article.

Choosing a landing site

Peonies can survive without replanting for several decades, so choose a location carefully.

Peonies love the sun and tolerate some shade. Places near buildings are not suitable for them - the plants suffer from overheating. Near tall trees and bushes they may lack water and nutrition.

A peony can be planted at least a meter from an adult tree (but not under the crown!), if the tree is located in the north or south. The sun, passing across the sky from east to west, illuminates the bush and it develops well.

Bushes getting straight Sun rays only after lunch, they will not give a quality cut, since the peduncles and the flowers themselves will be deformed. Bushes illuminated during the day, on the contrary, have straight peduncles and bloom profusely. Their flowers have a typical shape and color for the variety.

Pit preparation

Transplanting peonies in summer begins with preparing a planting hole. The pit needs to be prepared a month before planting so that the soil has time to settle. If the soil settles after planting peonies, this will adversely affect their condition.

The roots of peonies grow greatly in depth and width, so dig a spacious planting hole that they can completely occupy over time. If the hole is shallow, the roots will stop growing as soon as they reach a solid horizon, and without a developed root system, the peony will not be able to express itself in all its beauty.

The optimal pit size is 70x70 cm (diameter and depth). Pieces of broken bricks are placed at the bottom of the planting pit or a bucket of sand is poured out. A nutrient substrate is prepared based on the soil extracted from the pit, adding 2 liters of humus or peat, 200 g of phosphorus fertilizer and 300 g of . Higher doses of fertilizer will lead to excessive leaf development and reduced flowering.

The substrate is mixed and spilled with water. Then the pit and the substrate lying nearby are left to settle and rest. We will have to return to them only in a month, in mid-August-September, when the time comes to plant peonies.

What if soil waters close to the surface? Peonies do not like stagnant water, but there is no need to give up planting them.

You can get out of this situation if you plant the plants very shallowly. The pit is made only 10 cm deep, but larger in diameter than usual - about a meter. Drainage is poured onto the bottom, then the substrate (the same as described above). The peony roots are kept in a clay mash for 30 minutes, then a division is placed on top of the substrate and the roots are sprinkled with it. The top of the planting hole is covered with pieces of turf.

What is a standard division

A delenka is a standard planting unit for peonies. It is a piece of rhizome with 3-5 buds and 2-3 roots. A bush grown from such a cutting begins to bloom luxuriously in the third year, and the first flowers will appear in the second year. Divisions with a smaller number of buds are considered non-standard and have to be raised in school (we will talk about this in more detail below).

Dividing adult bushes requires certain skills. Bushes older than five years form a massive and intricate root system, the intricacies of which can be difficult to understand. When dividing, the rule must be observed: the more buds there are on the division, the more roots there should be on it.

How to divide an old peony bush

Inspect the bush and select the cutting lines, determining with which adventitious roots each part of the rhizome will remain after division. In this case, you can try to loosen the rhizome with your hands until inflection lines appear - along such lines it will be more convenient to cut the bush. After 1-2 cuts the situation becomes clearer and even a tangled rhizome can be successfully divided into standard sections.
The rhizome is cut with a chisel or chisel, tapping it with a wooden hammer.
Pieces of rhizome are loosened by hand, separating the intertwined roots.
The cuttings are washed from the remaining soil, weak, rotten and upward-growing roots are cut out.
The remaining roots are cut with a garden knife, leaving 15 cm of their length. The cuts should be as smooth as possible.
The cuttings are treated for several hours from root rot in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 5 liters). A more concentrated solution will burn the kidneys. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a solution of vitriol (50 g per 5 liters), keeping the plant in it for no more than 20 minutes. Exceeding this time leads to burns and death of the cuttings.
Many people prefer non-chemical disinfection, for which you can use garlic tincture. 200 g of peeled slices are twisted through a meat grinder, poured with a liter of water and left for 3 days. The tincture is filtered and stored in the refrigerator in a tight container for no more than three months. To process peonies, add 4 tbsp to a liter of water. tinctures and keep them for half an hour.
After etching, all sections are sprinkled with powdered charcoal or a 1:1 mixture of charcoal and colloidal sulfur.
The planting material is placed in the shade for 24 hours so that a protective cork layer forms on the cuts.
The divisions are lowered into clay mash, to which a heteroauxin tablet and a little wood ash are added. The mixture should have a paste-like consistency.
The pieces taken out of the chatterbox are laid out to dry. After this they can be stored for a long time. In this condition they can be sent by mail. After 5 hours, the rhizomes treated with mash can be planted in a permanent place or temporarily buried until the peonies are replanted in the fall.

Growing peonies in school. Small divisions can be raised for several years in school, where they reach standard sizes. A school is a garden bed with well-prepared, fertile soil. Sections of rhizomes are planted in a shrub according to a 20x20 cm pattern, buried in the soil. The layer of soil above the buds should be about 3 cm. For the winter, the plantings are covered with compost. In a year or two they can be planted in a permanent place.

With this method of planting, the buds are guaranteed to be at the required depth.

When planting several peonies, they are placed a meter apart from each other. The soil should not be dry in the first few weeks after planting, while the plants take root. If the weather is dry in August and September, then after a while the peonies need to be watered.

If it is not planting that is required, but replanting the peony to a new place, then it is simply dug up with a lump of earth and replanted. Such plants take root without problems and bloom as usual.

Sometimes the question arises: can flowering peonies be replanted or is it better to wait. The flowering period of peonies is short, the bush blooms for only 2-3 weeks, so you should wait until the end of flowering and then replant the plant by digging it up along with a lump of earth.

If you need to replant a young but already blooming peony, you need to take into account that replanting it to another place will prevent new buds from blooming and this year the plant will not look as decorative as always.

Typical mistakes when planting peonies

If peony for a long time after planting it does not bloom or develops poorly, this means that something does not suit it. Here are a few mistakes that gardeners most often make when planting peonies:

Wrong choice of location. Bushes should not be in the root growth zone big trees or in the shade. For abundant flowering they need a minimum of 5 hours of direct light, ideally early in the day.
Incorrect planting depth. Buried bushes need to be raised and soil added under them. If the planting, on the contrary, is too shallow, then the buds freeze slightly every year. To correct the situation, you need to replant the peony bush deeper, having first completely dug it out.
Excessive amount of humus in the planting hole.
Too acidic soil. Peonies prefer soil with a neutral solution reaction and develop poorly in areas with acidic soil.
Pieces too large or small.

Replanting peonies - when is it better to do it, in summer or autumn? If you plant or replant peonies in August, they will take root and have time to take root well before winter. In due time, they will delight the owner with numerous and large flowers. Peonies planted in September will need an additional year to adapt.