Over the winter, I'm tired of dried fruit compotes, I want something fresh. Growing edible honeysuckle will help you easily survive spring vitamin deficiency every year. The fruits ripen at the very beginning of summer, earlier than strawberries and other berries. Nature has given a generous gift to the residents of the northern regions. This plant tolerates severe frosts well. The branches are not damaged in cold down to -50⁰, flower buds tolerate up to -40⁰. The propagation of berry crops throughout the country is growing every year.

Features of honeysuckle

To find comfortable spot for the shrub and to provide it with proper care, you need to know the structure and development features of honeysuckle. The bush can reach a height of 1.8 m, produces many shoots that form a lush crown with a diameter of up to 2 m. So that at the end of next spring you can taste the juicy fruits, in mid-summer the plant begins to form flower buds in the axils of the upper leaves.

The root system of honeysuckle grows greatly both in width and depth. Powerful rods go into the ground and, at a distance of about 70 cm from the surface, develop a dense network of root processes. They sprout in different directions, extending half a meter beyond the crown perimeter. When planting, you need to take this quality of the plant into account.

Honeysuckle wood is very durable; propagation by dividing the bush or removing unnecessary branches must be done with a saw. Around the fourth year, the bark of the plant cracks and peels off from the shoots in long strips. Do not try to determine what kind of disease or pest attacked the bush, it is healthy and will grow a new covering very soon after that.

Choosing a place for a bush

If you make a mistake with the planting location of the berry bush, nothing bad will happen. Honeysuckle can grow in one place for up to 20 years, but easily tolerates transplants both in youth and in adulthood. And yet, in order not to disturb the plant unnecessarily, think about the layout of the garden in advance. It is very bad to move the bush to another place immediately after planting.

Honeysuckle loves fertile loams and sun. In the shade, the bushes develop well, but the harvest, despite good care, becomes smaller. The soil reaction should be neutral; in acidic soils the plant develops poorly and bears little fruit. Honeysuckle loves moist air, but does not tolerate wet soil and groundwater. Due to dampness in the ground, its roots begin to rot. If your site is located in a swampy area, ensure good drainage.

The plant is cross-pollinated; alone it will produce a very meager harvest. The more neighbors a bush has, the more berries it will produce. Do not rely on reproduction from one specimen, it will not produce results. Plant at least 3 copies, and it is advisable that all varieties be different. If you take planting material from friends, separate it from different bushes. When purchasing from a nursery, give preference to zoned varieties.

Depending on the climate, the following varieties of honeysuckle have proven themselves well:

• Sineglazka;
• Violet;
• Nymph;
• Blue bird;
• Kamchadalka.

When and how to plant

Honeysuckle wakes up very early, the buds begin to produce leaves at the end of March. The bushes go into a dormant state at the end of July, when other plants are in the midst of their growing season. From August to November you can safely plant on next year the plants will wake up and begin to develop. Spring planting is undesirable: when the soil thaws, the bushes are already actively developing, and there is no need to disturb them. If such a need arises, dig up the entire bush with a large lump of earth to minimize damage to the root system.

You can plant the bushes in a row or in a group; in any case, they need space. Make the distance between the bushes at least 1.5 m, then the honeysuckle will be comfortable and caring for it will be easy. The plant gets along well with black currants; you can place them in one corner of the garden.

Holes for planting bushes should be at least 40 cm in diameter and depth. Honeysuckle loves organic matter, place 2 buckets of compost and a liter jar of ash under each bush. You need to be careful with mineral fertilizers; the plant does not really like them. Three tablespoons of superphosphate will be enough.

Water the holes well, plant the bushes, spreading the roots evenly in all directions. The root collar should be buried 5-6 cm, then it will produce additional shoots. Water the hole so that the soil is compacted and there are no air pockets left. Mulch the circle with a layer of compost at least 5 cm thick; this procedure will help retain moisture and make caring for the plants easier.

After planting, do not shorten the branches. Pruning will slow down the growth of the bush and reduce the yield.

Plant care

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious crop, caring for it is easy. In September, trim off diseased, broken and dry shoots. Leave no more than 18 skeletal branches on the bush, remove the rest. The plant bears fruit most strongly in the 7th year. After 20 years, the bushes become old and produce little fruit. If branches that do not produce berries are cut out each season, the productive period can be extended. Proper care will also help increase fruit harvest. Honeysuckle is propagated using adult bushes; the plant can be divided only at the age of 8 years.

Honeysuckle does not tolerate stagnant water, but it needs moisture. Watering should be plentiful, especially when the fruits ripen. Pour at least a bucket of water under each bush. If the summer is dry, then 2 buckets of liquid will not hurt.

At first, the plants will have enough nutrition that you added when planting. In the third year in the spring, add a bucket under each bush. organic fertilizers. If the soil is low in nitrogen, in early spring Feed the honeysuckle with a tablespoon of urea diluted in a bucket of water. In September, pour 0.5 liters of ash into the ground; at the beginning of the growing season, it will supply the plant with the necessary components.

Honeysuckle propagation

The plant's seeds germinate well, but may not retain the quality of the parent specimen. You will only find out which bush will grow from the grains when you try the fruits: in the 3rd year. If Bluebird was chosen, do not expect berries of the same variety to grow. If you like to experiment, you can try this propagation, but it is usually used only for breeding or landscape design.

Crush the ripe fruits and let the seeds dry. At the end of October, sow them in the ground. In spring, shoots begin to appear. When the seedlings have 2 pairs of leaves, plant them in the nursery. Next year you can plant bushes on permanent place. You need to plant them 20 cm apart, then transfer the specimens with tasteless fruits to create a hedge.

Honeysuckle is propagated by dividing the bush. The plant must be well developed and at least 8 years old. Arm yourself with an axe, saw or other durable tool and separate a fragment with 3 skeletal branches and a root at least 20 cm long. The fragment must be planted immediately.

At the end of March you can prepare cuttings. The diameter of the branches should be at least 7 mm, length - about 17 cm. Stick the bottom cut into the thawed ground to a depth of 10 cm. At least 2 buds should remain above the surface. Roots will begin to develop in about a month. If you are late, you can prepare the shoots after flowering. Take a one-year-old twig that has a fresh sprout. Bury it 5 cm into the ground. After 2 weeks, new leaves will appear on the young shoot. Green cuttings can also be cut at the end of June. Stick them 10cm into the soil and keep the soil moist.

Propagation by cuttings will work better if you treat the lower cut with a root growth stimulator. There are many drugs, how to use them correctly, read the instructions.

Diseases and pests of bushes

Honeysuckle berries are liked not only by people, but also by insects. Carefully monitor the condition of your pets every year.

• If, when young shoots and leaves appear, the tops are gnawed off, it is the caterpillars of the leaf rollers.
• Yellow leaves are traces of aphid activity.
• Willow scale leaves bulges in the form of commas on the bark.

For drivers, treat the bushes with special preparations. Honeysuckle is disease-resistant; sometimes powdery mildew may appear. For example, the Blue Bird variety almost never gets sick. Treat the plants with Fitosporin; it is not poisonous and will not harm the crop. Do not forget that good care makes plants strong and able to cope with all problems on their own.

Don't forget about biological plant protection products. Planted nearby and will protect the plantings from diseases and pests. Spray the bushes with an infusion of wormwood and other herbs that insects are afraid of. Hang birdhouses and feeders to attract birds to the garden.

Why grow honeysuckle in the garden

There are a lot of berry crops, so why not grow semi-bitter honeysuckle? This plant has many benefits. First of all, it bears fruit very early every year and does not require complex care. Children don't want to go to the country? Tell them that they have already appeared on the bushes delicious berries, and the kids, pushing each other aside, will rush into the car.

Honeysuckle is not afraid of frost; it can be grown where strawberries and currants do not yield. Residents of northern regions also need vitamins. The unpretentious shrub will help them survive the long polar winter. The only problem: the flowers can survive frosts of at least -8⁰. If the bushes bloom early, keep an eye on the weather forecast. If there is a threat of severe frost, wrap them in non-woven material to preserve the harvest.

Conclusion

Honeysuckle is the earliest berry; it can be grown even in the far north. In spring, the body requires vitamins, a person is ready to eat any blade of grass. Bitter and sour fruits will saturate you with vitamins, the first compotes will be a good help after a long winter.

Caring for bushes is not difficult, but to get a good harvest every year, you need to grow several bushes different varieties. If you take planting material from friends, take cuttings from different bushes. When purchasing from a nursery, ask what combination of varieties will be optimal.

You can make jam from the berries, prepare compotes and jelly. When choosing a recipe, give preference to those where heat treatment will be minimal. Berries are rich in vitamins and other useful components, do not let high temperature destroy them. The earliest blue berries can grow in any area; provide the plants with proper care, and you are guaranteed a rich harvest.

Over the past decades, honeysuckle has literally burst into Russian gardens! From a once rare crop, honeysuckle has now become one of the main berry bushes in our gardens.

Among garden crops, the ripening season for fresh fruits opens with honeysuckle, which is gaining immense popularity not only among gardeners, but also among industrial producers. Depending on spring conditions, honeysuckle ripens 7-10 days earlier compared to the earliest varieties of strawberries.

Honeysuckle is valued for its rich biochemical composition of fruits, which includes vitamin A - which helps improve the immune system, C - which prevents fatigue, and iron - which helps in the fight against anemia. Eating honeysuckle fruits helps treat hypertension, malaria, liver and heart diseases.

Honeysuckle, with tasty and healthy fruits that produce large harvests, is the pride of Russian scientists and the hope of our gardeners. In the selection of honeysuckle, Russia is significantly ahead of other countries, having serious successes and advantages. After all, our climate is perfectly suitable for growing this wonderful berry crop. And in a milder climate, it is difficult to obtain large harvests of honeysuckle.

Honeysuckle is a relatively young garden crop, so it is less affected by sources of diseases and pests. IN last years began to be affected by aphids and a fungal leaf disease called ascochyta blight, when brown spots. Considering that the bushes do not tolerate pesticides during the growing season, it is possible to treat against the spores of the ascochyta fungus with copper-containing preparations, including Bordeaux mixture, before the fruit buds bloom on the plant. You can't do it later. Against aphids, you can use infusions and decoctions of herbs, for example, celandine, etc., and before the leaves bloom, use the drug Afidin - a mineral-oily emulsion. Then, before flowering, repeat the treatment at intervals of seven days. Of course, it is necessary to fight small black ants that carry aphids.

Honeysuckle is one of the crops that is highly adaptive to unfavorable climatic conditions. Its natural habitat is Siberia and the Far East, therefore, in the conditions of the central part of Russia, this crop is characterized by high winter hardiness. Its winter hardiness is truly unique. In places natural growth Honeysuckle bushes tolerate frosts of -50 degrees and below without noticeable damage. Blooming buds and flowers are not damaged by returning frosts. However, a threat is posed by a long, warm autumn, during which secondary flowering of plants is often observed, leading to loss of next year’s harvest.

Due to the fact that the main part of the honeysuckle harvest is concentrated on annual growths, to improve growth activity it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate (20–30 g per bush) in early spring.

The main method of propagating honeysuckle is green cuttings, the success of which depends on the correctly selected timing of cuttings. The cutting and planting of cuttings in the greenhouse begins when the first ripe fruits appear.

Features of cultivation

It is better to plant seedlings later than a month before the onset of stable frosts. It is also possible in early spring in pre-prepared planting holes, 1 m deep and at least 80 cm wide.

Seedlings are preferably two years old with 2-4 branches 30-40 cm long. The roots should have 3-4 branches. The distance between bushes is 2.5-1.5 m. Reducing the distance between plants to 1 m, as is sometimes recommended, leads to oppression of plants and exposure of the lower part of the bushes precisely during the period of full fruiting.

After planting, the seedlings are immediately watered, the tree trunk circles are mulched with loose organic material, humus, mature compost or finely chopped straw, in a layer of at least 4 cm. Honeysuckle grows and bears fruit in poor soils, but a greater harvest occurs in fertile, well-lit places.

Honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated crop, so to obtain high and stable yields, it is necessary to plant 2-3 different varieties. Care activities include digging up tree trunks, removing weeds and sanitary pruning, which involves removing damaged and dry branches.

In the first and even in the second year after planting, no fertilizers are applied. In the future, as the bushes grow, ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per bush) can be used for early spring feeding. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are best applied partly in spring and partly in autumn. In spring, per bush - 30 g of superphosphate, in autumn - 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. Fertilizing is combined with light watering.

Instead of applying fertilizer superficially, many hobbyists apply fertilizer directly to the root zone. To do this, starting from the third year after planting, they punch holes along the periphery of the crown with a crowbar, pour solutions of mineral or organic fertilizers into these holes and cover them with earth.

Among organic fertilizers, a solution of mullein in water (1:6) or bird droppings (1:10) is used. Application rate: for young bushes - 5 liters of nutrient solution and 10 liters for fruit-bearing ones.

Honeysuckle is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate flooding. Water the bushes as the soil dries, but always during critical phases of the growing season: during flowering, shoot growth (2 times), at the beginning of fruit ripening. One young bush requires 1-2 buckets of water, and an adult bush requires 4-6 buckets.

This culture is very slow to grow. In the first year, seedlings grow one shoot from 2 to 12 cm. The main growth continues for the first three years, during which time a bush of 0.5-1 m in height is formed. It is useless to stimulate shoot growth with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Bushes can be transplanted to a new location from July to October.

Features of pruning.

After two to three years of fruiting, a rather strong thickening forms at the tops of the branches, at the bottom the branches become bare, and restoration shoots grow from them. During the summer they reach the top of the bush and stop growing. And again, mixed and growth buds are formed in the upper and middle parts of these shoots, and only growth buds are formed at the base. Regeneration shoots, developing lateral branches, seem to “scrub” the old branches, causing them to bend to the sides.

The branches need to be shortened to 7-8 cm, which stimulates good growth of restoration shoots. The optimal length of “stumps” when pruning is 7-10 cm. Without pruning, regenerative shoots will appear only in the second, and more often in the third year of fruiting, when the branches at the bottom of the bush are already exposed and the periphery becomes thicker. The branches of the seedling will grow upward slowly, the growth of the central shoot may be weak.

The growth of 2-3 replacement shoots contributes to the rapid formation of a fairly powerful bush. By the beginning of fruiting, the gardener can only control the rate of growth of the bush and thickening of the crown, cutting out inconveniently growing, unnecessary or broken branches.

Fruit-bearing bushes are regularly thinned out after two years, since a high yield of berries can be obtained with an average growth length of branches of at least 20 cm. Therefore, old branches that thicken the crown should be cut out “for stumps” in the 8-10th year. Next year, 2-5 strong shoots will grow from the “stump”, one of which must be left to replace the removed branch, and the rest must be cut out.

Simultaneously with thinning on the bush, some of the strongly grown shoots from last year are shortened in order to enhance their branching. It is on the lower part of the growth that flower buds are formed.

If there is a need to lighten the peripheral zone of the bush, you can cut out part of the fruiting branch. The total number of branches of different ages in well-formed honeysuckle bushes should not be more than 15.

Don’t be embarrassed when fruit-bearing honeysuckle bushes lose bark at the base of the branches. This is a biological property of honeysuckle, where new bark is immediately formed.

A positive quality of honeysuckle is early fruiting. Already 3–4 years after planting, you can harvest the first harvest in the range of 100–150 g per bush. Among the modern assortment, high-yielding varieties include “Pushkinskaya”, “Lakomka”, “Dar Dal GAU”, “Princess Diana”, “Amazonka”, “Elizaveta”, “Maria”, giving a yield of 3 or more kg per bush.

One of consumer qualities This crop is large-fruited. The first varieties of honeysuckle had a fruit weight of 0.5 g and a sour taste, often with bitterness. Today, there is a group of varieties with fruits of dessert, sweet taste weighing 1–2 g. These varieties include “Antoshka”, “Viliga”, “Nymph”, “Pamyati Kuminova”, “Princess Diana”.

Reproduction

Honeysuckle is propagated both vegetatively and by seed. Seed propagation is used when breeding new varieties. It helps to maintain varietal qualities only vegetative propagation. On your own site, honeysuckle can be propagated by layering, dividing the bush, lignified and green cuttings.

Propagation by green cuttings begins in late May - early June. The length of the cutting is 25–30 cm. The lower leaves are removed, leaving only a couple of upper leaves. For better rooting of cuttings bottom Place in the root solution for 15–18 hours. They are also planted in a film greenhouse in a substrate of the same composition, but the frequency of watering is increased to 6–8 times a day. The rooting rate with this method reaches 100%. By autumn, the cuttings are ready to be dug up and transplanted for growing.

At what year do apple tree seedlings begin to bear fruit?

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Based on materials from answers@mail. ru and the answers from our readers.

When does an apple tree begin to bear fruit, in what year, how to speed it up

When can an apple tree bear fruit?

Apple tree 5852 0 Contents

• The beginning of fruiting of the apple tree
• Advice from experienced gardeners

Decorating the garden in the first year after planting, the apple tree does not immediately please with fruits. There are ways to speed up the fruiting process and enjoy the aroma of juicy fruits.

Various agricultural techniques will help speed up the fruiting process

An apple tree can bear fruit from the second year until the end of the tree's life. Proven agrotechnical techniques allow you to extend this period and improve the quality of fruits on the aging crown.

The beginning of fruiting of the apple tree

Each crop enters the period of fruiting differently. Some berries produce a harvest faster than others, already in the 1st or 2nd year. Stone fruit: cherries, cherries, and apricots need three to six years. Apple trees are pome crops that bear fruit quite late, after 5–7 years. With dwarf breeds, you can try apples a little earlier, at 3–4 years.

The characteristics of rootstocks and varieties are of great importance. Some names even on a vigorous rootstock produce the first fruits after three years. Examples of trees with early fruiting are the following varieties:

The Welsey apple tree is an example of an early fruiting tree.

This category of apple trees is characterized by regularity, a stable increase in yield each time. Dwarfs also bear fruit early. Dry, hot weather during the entire growing season of the young seedling can contribute to rapid fruiting. It can be slowed down by wet, gray weather two summers in a row.

Classic, tall varieties delight with the first fruits at 6-8 years. Some: Red Delicious, Sary-Sinap only after 10-12 years they enter the period of fruit formation.

How to bring the fruiting age of an apple tree closer

I don’t want to spend years waiting for the fruitfulness of the apple orchard, especially not for young people. There are methods tested by many plant growers. With persistent pursuit of results and careful care of the trees, it is possible to bring the harvest period closer. Methods of intensive agricultural technology contribute to accelerating the formation of the first fruits:

Spraying an apple tree with a fungicide diluted in water kills the formation of the ovary in the flower

An aqueous solution of the drug Sevin (2 g / 1 l) is used a week to a week and a half after flowering. The use of insecticide kills the embryos in the fruit buds. Growth-regulating KANU (25 mg/1l) has the same effect. IN industrial scale they are justified. For a small personal household, it is better to do without chemicals.

Mechanical. These include: bending branches, constriction, ringing. Observation of the garden will tell you which method to choose.

Bending a branch is the simplest technique. The awakening of the buds depends on the angle of departure of the skeletal branches; it should tend to 90°. In this position, growth is weakened and the onset of fruiting accelerates. The number of ovaries is determined by the length of the branch. The angle of departure is expanded by retracting the branch and securing it to a support or neighboring branches.

Banding. The bark (0.8–1.2 cm) is removed from the branch, turned over with the reverse side and secured in the form of a hoop in the same place. This procedure limits the movement of photosynthetic products to the root system from the leaves; they are sent to create buds. The wound is coated with garden varnish and bandaged with tape or thin film. The bark incision can be spiral or semicircular. The circles are made parallel to the tree, maintaining 1 cm between them. On the crown, the skeletal branches are not touched, since the entire apple tree slows down its growth. The procedure is carried out 3–4 weeks from the moment of flowering.

Padding. Slowing down the outflow of juices downward, the trunk is tightly bent with wire. It is left to grow in or removed in the fall. They pull fattening branches. This technique should not be used for thin shoots (up to 10 mm).

Kerbovka. Performed in early spring. The effect of it is weakening, when an incision is made under a bud or shoot. Accelerates fruiting if the cut is made above the branch. The cortex is cut 3–4 mm above the kidney, as if covering it with a crescent. With little skill, you can make rectangular marks. Cross-shaped nicks are considered gentle, heal well, and give quick results.

Mechanical techniques are carried out only on some branches, redistributing energy. It is impossible to involve the entire tree in the manipulation, otherwise the roots will not have enough nutrition.

Furrowing can be used at the beginning of the growing season

At the beginning of the growing season, furrowing can be carried out, in which the bark is cut into living wood. The method accelerates the onset of fruiting and leads to a bountiful harvest. In addition, the apple tree rejuvenates and tolerates frost better.

Frequency of apple tree fruiting

And everyone would like to see it not only blooming, but also bearing fruit every year. Some apple varieties produce a limited number of fruit ovaries. For example, Borovinka and Calvil snowy, with proper care, are distinguished by continuous fruiting from year to year. Abundant watering, timely pruning, and proper crown formation guarantee stable yields.

Craftsmen have learned to achieve annual fruiting, even when the frequency was initially determined by varietal characteristics. They normalize the number of flowers and ovaries in the spring, removing everything they think is unnecessary. First in one part fruit tree, next year - in another section of the crown. The result is delicious apples on the table.

The frequency of fruiting is due to the fact that, having given strength in a year of high harvest, the apple tree rests for the next 24 months, accumulating substances for the future period. Forming fruit flowers, which then form a juicy fruit, the tree wastes energy because:

• Actively growing and developing;
• Forms flowers with an ovary;
• Provides nutrition to growing fruits;
• It is stocked with microelements during hibernation.

During the flowering period, the apple tree needs quality care

During this period, the apple tree needs sufficient heat, light, water, and vital resources. To ensure replenishment of expended energy, the crop requires high-quality care. It is important to stick to harvest planning. An overloaded tree requires more time to recover and form a new collection. It can “turn off” for 2-3 years.

At the stage of fruit birth, the apple tree spends 10 times more energy than on the growth of wood and foliage. In this phase it produces weakened growths. On the contrary, the crown develops rapidly during the barren period, but does not form fruits.

Annual powerful vegetative growth ensures the establishment of a new crop. Natural factors that cause periods of its absence interfere with the formation of:

• Frosts that kill life in flowers and buds;
• Cold, rainy summer after a frosty winter with little snow;
• Species, varietal diseases;
• Massive damage by pests;
• Lack of nutrition after the fruiting period.

When you want to balance the output of your favorite varieties, wise gardeners regulate the frequency of their ripening. They bring the process to the desired sequence. The first year one ripens, the second year another, and so on.

Seasonality is achieved by careful preparation: pruning, removing part of the productive buds. Filled with strength, the rested tree will give a powerful harvest in gratitude for the next year. This year, the energy of another apple tree will be spent on creating fruits, which will not bear fruit next year.

Forming a harvest year by year on one tree is often used when the area is small and apples are a favorite delicacy. Completely tearing off the flowers on one side, leaving the other intact, which alternately work on the formation of fruits. In this way you can stimulate the apple tree. It is necessary to carefully care for the fertile side so that the branches are not overloaded.

The corrected biorhythm of the tree will help you get a good harvest.

The adjusted biorhythm of the tree ensures stable performance during the annual harvest. The apples ripen large, juicy, with a bright aroma. The plant begins to bear strong fruits every year, with better marketability than in an excessively abundant harvest with periodic fruiting. Some fruits are of insufficient quality and unsuitable for long-term storage.

Practice shows that the weight, characteristics and number of fruits in total over two years exceed the indications of an apple tree, which can bear fruit periodically.

The beauty of a blossoming apple tree is a picturesque sight. It refreshes in the heat, shelters from scorching sun rays, creating a saving shadow. Covered with ripening bright fruits, it looks picturesque in the garden. Surprisingly with a variety of flavor notes.

To see it like this every year, you need to look closely at the behavior of the plant in different conditions. Help to recover, cherish, care for the apple tree.

Pruning must be done at least once a year to balance the processes of growth and fruit formation. Depending on the region of cultivation, when the temperature rises closer to +10° C and the woody parts become more flexible, but sap flow has not yet begun, the tree is prepared for the season. The average time is mid-March. Removed:

Apple trees shorten their fruiting periods by annually digging up trunk circles with a radius of about 1 m. First, the soil is cleared of plant residues and debris. Treated with a prophylactic solution of iron sulfate (3%). Water abundantly, 30–40 buckets for each trunk. Mulch with sawdust, earth, compost in a good layer, from 0.2 m. The bases of the branches and the trunk are whitened, wrapped in burlap or other improvised, air-permeable material to prevent rodents. The tree is warmed by a pillow of snow around the trunk.

The trunk and bases of the branches must be whitened

With the onset of bright spring days, the tree is freed from its “clothes”. The mulch layer is turned up, but not removed; it retains moisture all season, warming during the day and cooling at night. The root system receives moisture from condensation even at very high air temperatures.

In order to force apple tree seedlings to begin bearing fruit earlier, the planting area is seasoned. A hole at least half a meter deep and 1 m in diameter is filled with rotted manure (4 buckets) mixed with wood ash (1 kg) and superphosphate (0.5 kg). Soil is placed on top, first black, fertile, then light (sandy, clayey). It all depends on the quality of the soil. Fertilizers are not needed in the first year.

In conclusion, a little trick for a big gardener: you can check whether the apples are ripe or not ready for harvesting and storage in a simple way.

Pick the fruit, cut it and drop in regular iodine. Reacting with starches, the spot turns black after 1–2 minutes, which signals insufficient ripeness. In ripe apples, iodine does not change color.

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​Than better conditions cultivation, the more beautiful bushes and more harvest. For the first 3 years, the plant only needs timely watering and weeding and the use of mulch. The first 3 years after planting, honeysuckle grows slowly, since all the energy is directed to the growth of the root system, then the growth of the ground part increases significantly.​

What is especially valuable about honeysuckle

​Every spring you can feed honeysuckle bushes with nitrogen fertilizers, but in the fall - only phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.​​Honeysuckle berries in temperate latitudes ripen 1-2 weeks earlier than garden strawberries. This means that children and adults will receive fresh vitamins earlier! Edible honeysuckle is a collective term that includes several blue-fruited species: edible, Kamchatka, Hegel, Turchaninov, Altai.

​Pests from​

For frost-resistant plants, propagation by seeds is very labor-intensive and ineffective. This method is of interest only to breeders. With this method, the parental properties are not preserved; the plant can produce either a very bad or a very good harvest.​ ​and remove damaged roots.​

​Be sure to check with the seller​

Honeysuckle is widely known in our country. There are many varieties of this culture. You can find decorative honeysuckle. Such varieties are a real treasure for lovers of landscape design. They look great as a hedge and stand up well to pruning. There are even climbing varieties.​

• ​Water. ​
• It is advisable to shape honeysuckle bushes, then they will be beautiful and more productive. I carry out the first pruning of young bushes immediately after planting honeysuckle seedlings in a permanent place. It is necessary to cut out all weak shoots, leaving 3-5 strong shoots on the bush and shortening them by a third of their length. In the future, during the first 5-6 years of growing honeysuckle, it is enough to just cut out dry and broken branches. At the age of 7 years and older, honeysuckle bushes reduce fruiting - you need to thin out the crown every 2-3 years, cutting out aging 5-6-year-old branches from the plant.

Optimal landing site

​Many varieties of honeysuckle have slightly bitter berries, which is a feature of this plant. But children, oddly enough, love these bitter berries... Honeysuckle fruits contain 8% sugar, 1 to 5 organic acids, pectins, tannins, P-active compounds (antacyanins, catechins), provitamins A1, B2, B1, vitamins C, as well as various trace elements: calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, sodium, calcium, copper, iron, iodine, aluminum, barium, silicon, strontium, manganese.

​cubic (50 x 50 x 50 cm), at a distance of at least 1 m from neighboring bushes, in the case of low growing plants and 2-2.5 m for tall honeysuckle.​

​– its sprouts and main trunk can tolerate negative temperatures down to -50 °C, and the root system and fruit-bearing buds easily tolerate 40 °C frost. Speaking of buds, flowers and young ovaries, they can cope with frosts of no more than -8 °C. Honeysuckle is a sun-loving plant and prefers clay soil with neutral acidity, generously fed with organic fertilizers. The shrub grows well both in the shade and in a sunny area, however, in the first case, fruiting decreases. Since, as mentioned earlier, the plant requires cross-pollination, it must be planted in groups of at least 3 bushes, preferably of different varieties.​ ​Seeds are better The seedling is lowered into the hole and covered with loose soil. Form small sides around the hole. Then you need to water the bush again. In this case, the root collar is deepened only by five centimeters, which is explained by the absence of root shoots.​

Features of seedlings:

Edible honeysuckle is one of the berry crops. It is a shrub that can reach a height of 2 meters. Honeysuckle fruits are dark of blue color. They have a sweet and sour taste and are slightly bitter. But this is precisely what makes them unique. Honeysuckle is a moisture-loving plant, so in hot and dry weather, especially in spring and early summer, moderate watering is required. Water 3-4 times per season with 10 liters of water per plant. In hot, dry summer conditions without watering, bitterness may appear in the berries. Honeysuckle bushes easily tolerate pruning. When I want to rejuvenate completely old bush, I just cut it down to the bottom. Then I water the pruned plant and feed it herbal infusion, infusion of manure and nettle. I water again. Trimmed honeysuckle bushes grow quickly, flowering and fruiting are restored.

Choosing seedlings

​Health experts claim that honeysuckle fruits treat anemia, indigestion, and scurvy. Honeysuckle berries are recommended for use in cases of hypertension, cardiovascular diseases (to strengthen the walls of blood vessels), and atherosclerosis. Honeysuckle is especially useful for people living in areas polluted by harmful chemicals territories. And this is not a complete list of the medicinal benefits of this healthy berry. Honeysuckle is a very cold-resistant plant. It can withstand frosts below 50 degrees. Propagated by all means - seeds, layering, green and lignified cuttings. In fairness it must be said that self-cultivation Honeysuckle seedlings are a long-term process, so it is still better to purchase them from a nursery.​ ​, consisting of leaf roller, leaf miner, Persian moth, sawfly and honeysuckle bugs. These insects gnaw holes of various diameters in the foliage and also roll them into a tube.​

​In the photo: honeysuckle blooming; honeysuckle harvest Some summer residents successfully use honeysuckle bushes in landscape design, making them into a hedge. With proper pruning, the bushes of this plant look very beautiful! Honeysuckle seedlings begin to bear fruit in the third or fourth year after sowing the seeds. If propagation occurs by cuttings, then the plant may produce the first berries after rooting the next year, but the harvest will be small. Only in the sixth or seventh year can one bush produce a harvest of more than one kilogram of berries.​

Features of spring planting honeysuckle

​Fingerwing​ ​2 buckets of compost​​needs to be watered abundantly

Step-by-step planting of honeysuckle

​. If the honeysuckle variety ripens early, then such seeds can be immediately planted in the ground or in some container that is covered with film. After the sprouts appear, it is removed. By autumn, these sprouts have two to three full leaves. For the winter, such seedlings must be covered. ​When landing​ The optimal age of a seedling is two or three years. Such a bush will begin to bear fruit within 2 years.​

Honeysuckle care

If some berries are already overripe, they fall to the ground when harvested. In this case, first spread a film or cloth under the honeysuckle bush, and then start collecting fruits from the bush. Then the berries that have fallen from it can be easily collected from the fabric.​

Loosening

​If you received dry honeysuckle seeds at the end of summer, then leave them until autumn. In October, pour a layer of sand into a low, wide vessel (18-20 cm in diameter and 5-6 cm in height). Spill the sand with water and place honeysuckle seeds on it. Sprinkle the seeds with damp sand. Cover the bowl with the seeds with a cake lid and place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.​ ​growing honeysuckle​ Honeysuckle is also susceptible

Watering and fertilizing

The holes are filled with heated water, which is poured over the hole so that the entire surface of the soil warms up.

​Taking into account the peculiarities of our climatic latitudes, due to short but hot summers, there are many varieties of honeysuckle recommended by nurseries for propagation in the future. However, I especially want to focus on the following varieties of shrubs:​ ​Disadvantages of this method​

​. This is necessary for good pollination.​

Circumcision

​Choose bushes with large buds and a developed root system.​​It is used for heart and vascular diseases, problems with blood pressure, and vitamin deficiency. Honeysuckle is especially recommended for people living in radiation-contaminated areas. And this is not the entire range of medicinal capabilities of this berry.​ ​Pruning of the bush begins from 6–8 years of age. This is, first of all, sanitary pruning, which comes down to removing diseased, broken, and dried branches. It is not recommended to remove the tops of young shoots, because they contain most of the flower buds from which the berry crop is formed. Then, to continuously support annual growth, it is recommended to cut out 1-2 unproductive branches every two years. For old 15-20 year old bushes, strong anti-aging pruning “to the stump” is possible, which is carried out at a height of 0.5 m from the soil level. Due to young shoots, the shrub is able to recover within 2–3 years. It is recommended to do pruning in the fall, after leaf fall, or in early spring - in March.​

​At the height of spring, we dream of enjoying the first berries from our own garden as quickly as possible, which, as a rule, we cannot wait for before the middle June. However, by growing honeysuckle on your plot, you can open the berry season at the end of May. A very plastic, cold-resistant, unpretentious and early-ripening crop, honeysuckle is an amazing find in modern gardening, which is definitely worth planting.​

​Every 10-15 days, take out a container with honeysuckle seeds. If the sand is dry on top, moisten it with a spray bottle (for this purpose, you can use an empty, washed “spray bottle” from cleaning products). And this needs to be done until spring.​

Reproduction

​most productive. When the yield of the bush begins to fall, the bush can be renewed by cutting off all the branches to the base. The total lifespan of the plant is from 20 to 25 years.​ ​fungal diseases​

• ​In the central part of the hole a small hill of earth is built. The seedling is carefully placed in the hole and the root system is straightened so that it is evenly distributed along the edge of the mound. If damaged or dried roots are found, you need to get rid of them.​
• Early varieties include
• ​: you have to wait about five years before fruiting; you cannot be sure of the yield and taste of the fruit, since varietal characteristics are not preserved.​

Seed method

​Under no circumstances prune bushes after planting. This will delay the development of the plant and significantly delay its fruiting time.​

​Buy 3-4 varieties at once. This is necessary for good fruiting. In the future, you will be able to propagate honeysuckle vegetatively. Honeysuckle easily tolerates frost: growth buds and wood can withstand frosts of minus 50°C, flower buds and root systems - minus 40°C, and the first shoots are ready to survive frosts down to minus 8°C. climbing plants more thermophilic.​ ​Pests and diseases. ​

Honeysuckle can grow in one place for more than 30 years. This is an extremely winter-hardy plant: its growth buds and wood can tolerate frosts down to – 50 °C, and its roots and flower buds can withstand temperatures down to – 40 °C. Buds, flowers and young ovaries are not afraid of frosts down to – 8 °C.​

In the spring, take a larger box, 15-20 cm high. Fill it with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm, water it. Then try to evenly scatter sand along the surface of the soil along with honeysuckle seeds. The crops should be sprinkled with soil (a layer of about 1-2 cm), lightly compacted and carefully moistened. Honeysuckle has low soil requirements, the only thing is that it prefers moist but drained areas.

Green cuttings

​, which are manifested by the formation of all kinds of spots both on the foliage and on the shoots.​

Then the hole is sprinkled with compost in a small amount and watered so that

Dividing the bush

​Morena​​This is the most effective method of propagation. You need to wait for green fruits to appear on the honeysuckle. At this time, you can begin harvesting cuttings. The shoots of the current year are cut about 10 cm long. The top of the shoot is cut at a distance of one centimeter from the bud. Leave 2-3 knots. The bottom cut is made at an angle. The upper leaves are cut in half. By caring for honeysuckle correctly, you create all the conditions for abundant flowering and getting an excellent harvest. Optimal care includes weeding, loosening, watering, fertilizing, pruning.​

​Choose seedlings in containers or special bags. In them, the root system of the plant is protected, and therefore the bushes take root better.​

Harvesting

​This honeysuckle crop, as a rule, is rarely affected by pests and diseases. This makes it possible to grow an environmentally friendly crop. The following pests are sometimes noted: leafroller, honeysuckle fingerwing, honeysuckle aphid, scale insect, honeysuckle mite. If your bush is damaged by sucking or hidden pests, then it is necessary to treat it with systemic drugs “Actelilicom”, “Confidor” or others. The genus Honeysuckle (Lonicera) has about 200 species. Among them there are bush and climbing varieties. Climbing honeysuckle is often used as an ornamental plant for vertical gardening. Of the many types of honeysuckle, only a few have edible fruits. The fruits of edible honeysuckle are eaten. These are shrubs up to 2 meters high with erect or slightly curved shoots and a compact crown. The bark is brown with a red or gray tint, easily separated from the trunk by narrow longitudinal stripes.​

Cover the box with honeysuckle crops with film and place it in the garden under a tree (for example, under an apple tree). Honeysuckle crops should be in partial shade. It is advisable that the box with honeysuckle crops be illuminated by the sun for at least 6 hours a day.

​When starting to plant honeysuckle, you need to prepare in advance the holes in which the bush will be planted. A hole is dug about 40cm deep. You need to add fertilizer to it, which consists of 3 kg of humus, 300 g of ash and 3 tbsp. spoons of nitrophos. Then in the pit it all mixes with top layer soil and watered with a solution of fluff lime at the rate of 1 glass of lime per 10 liters of water.​

When the bush gets sick

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Edible honeysuckle - growing features

​soil stuck to the root system​

​. This is a medium-sized plant with a rounded crown and fairly large fruits. From one bush during the fruiting period, up to 2 kg of berries with a sweet and sour taste with a subtle pleasant aroma are collected. Green cuttings are planted in a greenhouse. They will sprout roots in about one or two weeks. It is better to leave the cuttings to overwinter directly in the greenhouse, covering them well. In the spring, you can plant it in a permanent place. In spring and summer, the soil under the honeysuckle

​Pay attention to the height of the plants. You cannot buy very short seedlings 0.25-0.3 meters high and very long ones - 1.5 meters. The former are most likely poorly rooted and have not yet developed enough, while the latter will not take root well.​

Main features of edible honeysuckle

​can bear fruit for almost 20 years​​Against aphids, bushes can be treated 2-3 times with a weak alcohol solution (100 ml of vodka per 1 liter of water). This method will not protect the plant for a long time, but you will have time to collect the berries. During the fruiting period, chemicals cannot be used. Under unfavorable weather conditions, plants can be affected by powdery mildew, to combat which you can use, for example, Fitosporin. It should be noted that if agricultural practices are followed, such problems practically do not arise. Buds, flowers and young ovaries are not afraid of frosts down to -8 ° C.

When the shoots appear, the film must be removed. Water small honeysuckle seedlings carefully. In September, you can transplant some of the honeysuckle seedlings to the garden bed. It is better for them to make a narrow bed and fence it with boards. Both in the garden bed and in the box, honeysuckle seedlings must be mulched (I used fallen pine needles) so that the soil surface does not dry out. After 2-3 days, honeysuckle can be planted. It is very important that the root collar is 5-7 cm below ground level.​ ​virus​

Choosing the right honeysuckle variety

Varieties of honeysuckle

Honeysuckle is highly resistant to pests. Edible honeysuckle -​honeysuckle flowersberrieshoneysuckle berrieshoneysuckle bush

1. ​In June, ripe honeysuckle fruits can be bought at the market, or you can ask your dacha neighbors or familiar gardeners. Mash the honeysuckle fruits and pour them with a small amount of water (for 30-40 minutes). Make the bed for sowing seeds no more than 50 cm wide. Enclose it with boards so that the soil does not wash away and you can easily cover the crops. Loosen and level the soil in the garden bed, pour a 2-3 cm layer of sand on it, then the same amount of soil (2-3 cm), water it, level it. Shake the soaked, crushed honeysuckle berries in water and spread evenly over the prepared bed. Every year, it is advisable to apply manure or vegetable humus under the honeysuckle bush, remove weeds, and loosen the soil to improve access of air and water to the roots. If the weather is dry, then you need to do regular watering.​ ​For effective fight with pests experienced gardeners It is advised to use purchased products that are used to spray shoots in the fall as a preventive measure. In the summer, drugs are used to directly control insects, but only after the edible honeysuckle stops bearing fruit. For the prevention of fungal diseases, use
2. ​When planting honeysuckle seedlings, you need to alternate different varieties. This is due to the fact that different varieties are better pollinated and produce fairly large yields. - a shrub with a rounded crown and average height with rather large spindle-shaped fruits weighing more than a gram. The fruits practically do not fall off and have a sweetish taste without bitterness with a pronounced aroma. The yield of berries from one bush reaches a little more than 2 kg. The wood of this plant is very durable, so you have to use an ax or saw. Each resulting part should contain 2–3 branches, 2 stems and a root at least 200 mm long. Such cuttings are immediately planted in the prepared place.
3. Soil moisture is very important for honeysuckle, since the root system is located close to the soil surface. The amount of watering depends on weather conditions, the composition of the substrate and the ability of the soil to retain water. Naturally, in hot weather, frequent watering is required. If the plant does not have enough moisture, the berries will be very bitter.​
4. ​differ in growing season​
5. Before you start planting, you need to resolve two issues: ​her​ Next year's harvest is gradually laid during the summer in the axils of the upper leaves in the flower buds. Honeysuckle begins to bear fruit in the 3rd year after planting the seedlings. The first fruits can be expected at the end of May.​
6. This option of sowing honeysuckle seeds is also possible. Spread the thinnest toilet paper over the soil and pour the seed mixture evenly onto it. Seeds are easier to spot on paper and easier to distribute them more evenly on light-colored paper (with a dry stick or finger).​
7. ​During the growing season, it is advisable to make at least 3 feedings. In dry weather, liquid fertilizers are used, and in rainy weather, dry fertilizers are poured under the bushes.

​copper sulfate solution​​I would like to draw your attention to the fact that, unlike most other shrubs, honeysuckle is not pruned or shortened when transplanting or planting, since it is​ ​Viola​

Care and feeding of honeysuckle bushes

​The strongest branches, which are one year old, are used for harvesting. It is better to carry out this division before the buds open. Each part should be 150–180 mm long. When planting, the cuttings are deepened ten centimeters. In about a month, the cuttings should have roots.​ Feeding is carried out early in the spring​. This process occurs a little later in alpine honeysuckle, Maaka variety, small-leaved and others, so they can be planted in the spring. It is better to plant edible honeysuckle in the autumn, since its growing season begins before the ground thaws. The period from August to September is best suited for this. By this time, the bush has already stopped growing, its buds are forming. If you purchased seedlings with closed roots, they can be planted at any time from spring to autumn, regardless of the variety.​

​Where is the best place to plant honeysuckle?

​flowers and ovary are able to withstand spring frosts up to -7 °C. Early ripening varieties ripen in some years on June 5-8.​ ​ The first fruits can be expected at the end of May.​ Sowing honeysuckle seeds should be covered with soil (2-3 cm layer) and covered with film. Honeysuckle shoots will begin to appear in 3-4 weeks. The film can be removed from them, but watch the weather: heavy rainfalls can damage small seedlings. Therefore, it is advisable to place arcs over the bed and throw a film over them, but do not cover the ends - let there be ventilation. If the weather is very hot, then it is better to throw a covering material (lutrasil, spunbond, etc.) or just a piece of gauze over the arches so that the tender seedlings do not burn under the film.​

Common honeysuckle - main diseases and pests

The first feeding is done in the spring. To do this, prepare a solution: add a tablespoon of berry fertilizer and a tablespoon of nitrophos to 10 liters of water. An adult fruiting bush requires a large bucket of solution, and for young bushes 3 liters of solution is enough.​

Honeysuckle variety Fruiting should be expected in 2-3 years​Organic fertilizers begin to be applied from the third year. One bucket for each plant is enough.​

Methods of propagation of honeysuckle

​where the sun is there all day long​ ​Honeysuckle​​L​

​Properly selected seedlings take root and grow very well. Typically, annual seedlings or rooted cuttings are available for sale. To choose the right plants, you should: ​1. You have to wait up to 5 years for a harvest from seedlings.​ The third feeding is done in the fall. This time, three tablespoons of superphosphate and two tablespoons of potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water. For the third feeding you need the same amount of solution as for the second feeding.​

​dividing the plant​​Honeysuckle, the cultivation and care of which in the future will consist of timely pruning of dry, broken branches and growing towards the depths of the crown - the plant is not whimsical. The optimal time for pruning is​ ​Amphora​

​, and the maximum harvest is in 4–5 years.​ ​Need​​.​

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What are the benefits of honeysuckle?

Not a very demanding plant

The best time to plant honeysuckle is autumn (September). But she is not afraid of spring transplants (before the buds begin to bloom) or summer ones (after the end of growth). Bushes are planted at a distance of 1-1.2 m from each other. Honeysuckle is propagated by woody and green cuttings and layering. Cuttings are harvested in the fall (after the leaves have fallen) and stored until spring in the basement or buried in the ground. During seed propagation, varietal qualities are not preserved.​

When do honeysuckle bushes begin to bear fruit?

​do not buy adult plants more than 1.5 m high. They take root worse and do not bear fruit for a long time;​

​2. When propagated by seeds, honeysuckle, like most fruit and ornamental crops, does not retain its varietal properties.​

​The shrub has a well-developed root system, which is located mainly at a depth of 20 to 40 cm, so cultivation of the soil around the plant can be carried out without any restrictions.​​, but this can only be done if there is an adult, overgrown bush, which during Hilling produces adventitious roots. The plant is dug up either in early spring or late autumn and divided into several separate bushes, each of which will quickly take root after transplantation.​ ​beginning of autumn (September)​

Preparing the soil and planting honeysuckle seedlings

​also has an average ripening time. This medium-sized shrub, with a rare, ball-like crown shape, does not shed berries, and the yield is up to 3.0 kg per plant unit.​

​The first berries appear around the end of May. It all depends on the variety. But the ripening process itself is extended, the fruits ripen unevenly. This is the main disadvantage of honeysuckle. Harvesting cannot be delayed, as the berries fall off very easily. Therefore, fruit collection is carried out several times.

​avoid thickening the bushes​

​If planting is done in the spring, then optimal time– end of April – beginning of May, and in autumn – mid-September. Let's consider

Honeysuckle care

​, but it’s still worth knowing what she loves. If you do not take her preferences into account, the harvest will be significantly lower.​

​Honeysuckle varieties for cultivation in Belarus are presented​

​be sure to buy at least 3 different varieties to ensure cross-pollination;​

​Therefore, in gardening practice they mainly use vegetative methods propagation of honeysuckle by cuttings and layering.

​Growing honeysuckle​

​When propagated by seeds, at first the above-ground part of the bush grows at a very slow pace, but the root develops intensively. The appearance of fruits begins in full

​. During the first 3 years, the shrub requires only timely watering and weeding. They begin to fertilize honeysuckle from the third year of life. To do this, it is quite enough to add no more than a bucket of organic fertilizers for each plant at the beginning of spring, and at the end of summer, wood ash in the volume of 1 liter jar.​ ​To more late varieties applies

​You need to spread the film before starting cleaning. Overripe berries will fall on it, which you can then easily pick.​

​. When the honeysuckle reaches six years of age, sanitary pruning needs to be done. To do this, remove all broken, diseased branches under the base. Then every 2-3 years you need to thin out the crown, removing all the old branches and leaving about five of the strongest bushes. The tops should not be touched, as they contain buds with flowers.​

​main stages of planting honeysuckle​

Honeysuckle does not like too acidic soil; it is better if it is neutral acidity. If this condition is not met, fruiting will sharply decrease and the foliage will become pale. It is optimal to plant this berry in loamy soil with the addition of organic fertilizers.​

​here:​

• Golden currant - cultivation and appearance

• Viburnum viburnum: beneficial properties and cultivation

• Rules for growing black currants

DelaOgorodnie.ru

Garden honeysuckle: propagation, planting and care

​choose varieties whose fruits do not have bitterness.​

Honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant; its varieties are practically self-sterile. Therefore, several different varieties of honeysuckle should be planted side by side in the garden. Honeysuckle bushes should be planted at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, no less.

​ - this is not only a significant addition to your table (wonderful preserves, jams, compotes are made from honeysuckle), but also a delight for aesthetes. By wisely placing several different varieties on your plot, you can get not only healthy berries from growing honeysuckle, but also aesthetic pleasure.​

Use of honeysuckle in medicine and garden design

​at the age of three

​Nitrogen-based fertilizing is carried out at the moment when the snow melts in the spring, that is, at the very beginning of the growing season. To do this, use a tablespoon of urea diluted in a bucket of water. The resulting mixture is watered over honeysuckle bushes. However, even without this, the plant will bear fruit normally, although in a smaller volume. With quality care, you can get a harvest of up to 6 kg from one bush.​

​Violet​

Seed propagation of honeysuckle

​With proper planting and optimal care, honeysuckle can delight you with vitamin-rich berries for 20–25 years.​

If the honeysuckle is already more than 15 years old, then you can cut it at the root and leave a stump 40 cm high. Next year, new young and strong shoots will appear.

​She will​

The bushes are not pruned for the first 3-5 years. Only individual broken, intertwined or asymmetrically growing branches are removed. As the bushes grow and the crown thickens, the main pruning of honeysuckle comes down to thinning out the branches and clearing out small overgrown branches that thicken the crown. In bushes older than 15 years old branches are cut out, replacing them with young strong basal shoots, or they are rejuvenated by shortening the branches to a strong lateral branch located at the base of the bush.

​For planting seedlings, select a well-lit, flat or slightly sloping area. Most varieties of honeysuckle prefer sunny locations, but tolerate partial shade. Plants planted in the shade do not bloom well, which means you won’t have to wait for a harvest.​

The area where honeysuckle will be planted should be well protected from the wind. Honeysuckle grows well near fences, surrounded by other bushes. But the bushes need good lighting.​

​You may also be interested in articles about garden shrubs and chicory salads, endive and escarole.​

​. Much better bush propagated by cuttings, for which young shoots are suitable. As soon as the first fruits begin to ripen, cut cuttings from the shrub you like. The branches for rooting should not be very long - at least 2-3 buds are enough. Rooting of cuttings occurs in greenhouse conditions or in a standard pot for indoor flowers.​

​I would like to note that edible honeysuckle bushes grow at a fairly slow pace and

​. The shrub is slightly spreading, medium in size, with dense foliage and sweet and sour fruits without bitterness. Up to 2 kg of berries are collected from one honeysuckle bush.​

Edible honeysuckle means one of the earliest and at the same time very useful berries, which every gardener should have in his or her personal plot. Honeysuckle berries have long been considered a source of health and longevity. Our ancestors knew about the beneficial qualities of the fruits of this crop and therefore often grew them in their gardens. Please note that if there is a bush behind proper care, it has been growing on the site for decades.​

On climbing honeysuckle, only sanitary pruning is usually carried out.

​Be sure to maintain a distance between bushes, it should be at least 1.5 meters. Later, the bushes develop a wide crown, and the passages can become very narrow. And this is undesirable, since honeysuckle branches are fragile and can easily break. If decorative varieties are planted, then the distance between the bushes is better to be three meters.​

Planting honeysuckle seedlings

​grows poorly on heavy and waterlogged soils​

​Harvest:​

Honeysuckle is a very unpretentious plant and feels good in almost any soil. Too dry sandy and waterlogged swampy areas are unsuitable for planting. If planting is planned for autumn, it is better to do this before mid-October. This is due to the fact that already in mid-summer the plant’s growth processes end and apical buds are formed. In fact, the plant remains dormant until spring, so it tolerates planting very easily.​

​Honeysuckle does not grow well in elevated and dry places, I have learned this from my own experience. When we removed the honeysuckle bushes from the high ground in the garden in front of the house and transplanted them to a swampy area, we finally felt what a good harvest of honeysuckle berries was like.​

​Read Garden Affairs and work on your garden and vegetable garden with us.​

To root cuttings of edible honeysuckle in greenhouse conditions, prepare an earthen composition of equal proportions:

Only by the age of 7 do they reach their maximum size

Caring for honeysuckle in the garden

​Taking into account the fact that the growing season of edible honeysuckle is insignificant, that is, the shrub moves from a state of development to a state of rest already by the beginning of the last summer month, the process of plant growth by this time completely stops. As a result, no matter what happens with the weather, honeysuckle will sleep until the beginning of spring.​

The plant is not a self-pollinating crop, so it needs

Honeysuckle can be propagated

​Pits for planting​

​, as well as in areas that are too dry. When there is excess moisture, the roots of the plant begin to rot. Therefore, the landing site should not be where groundwater comes close to the surface. But watering should be regular, especially in hot weather. Honeysuckle loves moist air and does not tolerate strong winds.​

Collection of honeysuckle fruits

The beginning of ripening of the berries is manifested by a change in color from green to blue. After this, the fruits reach consumer maturity in 5-10 days. Harvesting begins when approximately 3/4 of the berries have reached their final degree of ripeness. They are usually collected at one time in baskets with a capacity of 2-3 kg. Collected fruits can be stored in a cool room for no more than 3 days.​

​Spring planting should be done before the growing season begins. When planted in late spring, honeysuckle does not take root well and gets sick. If there is a need to plant or replant in late spring, then this should be done by transshipment along with a large lump of earth.​

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❃ How to plant and care for edible honeysuckle ❃

Honeysuckle can be planted in the garden in early spring and autumn. It is advisable to do the spring planting of seedlings before the buds open, and honeysuckle begins to grow very early! Before planting honeysuckle seedlings, it is necessary to destroy weeds in advance, especially perennial ones.

​turf soil, sand and humus​

​. At the age of 20, due to the fact that large skeletal branches begin to gradually die off, fruiting noticeably decreases. However, with the help of severe pruning, the bush can be temporarily rejuvenated. To do this, every year, non-fruit-bearing branches are gradually pruned down to the trunk.

Thanks to this, planting is done

​cross pollination​

​in three ways:​

​made in the form of a cube with sides of 40 centimeters. Compost is added to the resulting depression. Add 2 buckets of composted fertilizer to each hole. After this, add superphosphate - 3 tablespoons and one liter of ash. If there is no ash, then you can use only half as much lime. If planting is done in sandy soil, then you need to increase the amount of compost to three buckets.​

When determining a place for honeysuckle, pay attention to the lighting. This plant loves sunny places. You can plant it in the shade, but then the number of fruits will be significantly less. In some varieties, it is better to shade the lower branches, but this condition is fulfilled naturally with dense planting.​

How to choose seedlings

The berries contain sugars, organic acids, pectins, potassium salts, iron, sodium, magnesium, as well as iodine, copper, barium, zinc, manganese, silicon, aluminum, with 2.5 times more potassium than in raspberries and currants. Of the vitamins, honeysuckle is especially rich in ascorbic acid and P-active substances (rutin, catechins, anthocyanins, etc.). Pectin substances help remove heavy metal salts from the body in case of poisoning.​

• ​healthy honeysuckle seedling in the landscape
• Honeysuckle is undemanding to soil. Fertile forest, loamy and sandy loam soils are suitable. On poor soils, it is imperative to add organic fertilizers to the soil in advance. Lime, chalk or dolomite flour should be added to acidic garden soil.​
• ​Send to your social network so as not to lose:​

When and where to plant honeysuckle?

​. To improve the microclimate, the cuttings are covered with a cut plastic bottle. The same is done when growing honeysuckle in a flower pot.

​Like many others berry bushes, different varieties of honeysuckle are both well resistant to various diseases and pests, and are highly susceptible to them. However, regardless of this, the gardener can help the plant by adopting modern means struggle. Pests and pathogens of honeysuckle include the following:

​from early August until late autumn​

​. It is for this reason that in order to achieve large yields, it is necessary to plant at least three bushes. And given that honeysuckle seedlings are not the cheapest, not every gardener will be able to buy them at a garden center or nursery.​

​using seeds;​

​After mixing, you need to add water. Moistening should be uniform throughout the entire depth of the hole. In the center of the depression you need to form a tubercle.

​Honeysuckle​

Care

Honeysuckle fruits strengthen the walls of blood vessels, muscles and nervous tissue. IN folk medicine they are used for diseases of the stomach, liver, gall bladder, hypertension, cardiovascular failure, malaria, anemia. They also have bactericidal properties. The juice of the berries is used to treat ulcers, lichens, a decoction of berries and leaves is used to rinse the mouth and throat, for stomatitis, pharyngitis and sore throat, a tincture of flowers - for inflammation of the bladder, an infusion of leaves - for conjunctivitis.​

The planting hole should be 40x40x40 cm in size. The distance between seedlings should be 1.5-2 m, and between rows - 2-3 m, so that the plants can grow normally. Into the pit we add 100 g of long-acting organomineral fertilizer “OMU Universal” or 10–12 kg of humus or well-decomposed manure, 100 g of double superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 300 g of wood ash. It is necessary to make a small mound in the center of the hole, straighten the roots of the plant and cover it with loose soil. Bury the seedling into the soil so that the root collar is 5 cm below the surface of the earth. Before planting honeysuckle seedlings, add mature compost and mineral fertilizers to the planting hole and mix thoroughly. For existing plants with an open root system, you need to check the roots and cut out any damaged roots.​

​On the same topic​​After 15-20 days of cultivation, seedlings begin to be ventilated by removing plastic bottle for a short time. After approximately 1.5 months, the bottle can be completely removed. In most cases, honeysuckle by the first autumn months

​Insects from the sucking family​​(mid-November). In the spring, edible honeysuckle can be planted or replanted only by transshipment, together with a lump of soil enveloping the root system. No transportation or planting of seedlings from containers in spring is allowed. At the same time, there is a certain sequence of actions for transplanting a plant:

​At the same time, it is possible that the variety of purchased berries will not be to the owner’s taste personal plot. There is only one way out of this situation - to learn how to grow and propagate honeysuckle with your own hands in order to always have seed of the desired variety.​ ​by green cuttings;​

​Necessary​

​is cross-pollinated

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Edible honeysuckle - planting, care, use.

The fruits are consumed fresh and processed. A juice of excellent color and taste is prepared from them, which has a pleasant, slightly astringent taste and is valued as a food coloring for jelly and refreshing drinks. Compotes made from it are good, but the most useful are fresh berries, mashed with sugar. In folk medicine, honeysuckle juice is used to treat ulcers and lichen; fresh fruits and jam are taken for hypertension, associated headaches and dizziness. Infusions of fruits have a general strengthening, astringent, diuretic and anti-inflammatory effect. Bury the seedling into the soil so that the root collar is 5 cm below the surface of the earth. When planting honeysuckle seedlings, the root collar can be buried 2-5 cm. Then it should be well compact the soil and form sides around the planting hole, water the planted plants thoroughly. When the water is absorbed, you must mulch the hole (this is the case when you will very quickly understand the benefits of mulch when growing honeysuckle).

Honeysuckle is edible. Requirements

Edible honeysuckle. Planting

​grows up to 25 cm​​, which can include honeysuckle aphids, scale insects and mites. The first signs of pests are yellow, deformed, falling leaves.​

Quite voluminous holes are prepared with dimensions Edible honeysuckle can safely be attributed to

Edible honeysuckle. Care

​by dividing the bush.​

​inspect the root system of the plant​. Therefore, you need to plant several bushes of different varieties at once. If you grow only one bush or use a single variety, the plant will bloom profusely, but will not produce a harvest.​

Edible honeysuckle.Usage

​When dried, honeysuckle fruits retain all their valuable qualities.​

​Tamp down the soil around the seedling and water it with water at the rate of one bucket per seedling. Then mulch the seedling with dry soil, peat or humus. The seedling should not be pruned or shortened to avoid delays in growth and development.​

​In the first year after planting honeysuckle, plants require special attention. If the summer is dry, abundant watering of honeysuckle seedlings is necessary. It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush after watering only superficially, because the roots of honeysuckle lie shallow. When mulching the soil (I use sawdust and humus), you can do without loosening. In recent years, I have not loosened the soil under the honeysuckle bushes at all. Our honeysuckle was planted in a former swamp - there is grass everywhere. And honeysuckle harvests have become better!​

​Garden honeysuckle is becoming more and more popular every year. But seedlings of this beautiful shrub are sometimes difficult to find on sale.​

Raspberry planting care reproduction

The article will tell you in detail about the intricacies of growing edible varieties of honeysuckle, its pests and diseases.

Edible honeysuckle is a crop with large, sour-sweet and sweet (sometimes with a slight bitterness) dark blue berries. Honeysuckle blooms beautifully and, with proper care, always bears fruit abundantly. First of all, you need to choose the right land plot and choose “healthy” seedlings for planting.

Early varieties:

“Average” varieties in terms of ripeness:

Late varieties:

What kind of soil does edible honeysuckle like?

• The culture does not like “acidic” soil.
• Does not take root in “heavy”, dry soils and wetlands.
• The ideal soil is loamy, with organic fertilizers.
• Too much wet soil will cause the roots to rot.
• Try to avoid areas with passing groundwater.
• In hot weather, the soil should be moistened (not allowed to dry out).

How to properly plant edible honeysuckle seedlings - the obligatory proximity of two bushes, in spring and autumn: step-by-step instructions

IMPORTANT: You need to know that honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated crop. Therefore, several varieties should be planted in one area at once. This will allow the crop not only to bloom profusely, but also to bear fruit.

Selection of seedlings:

• Before purchasing seedlings, ask the seller about the type of crop, its fruits and yield.
• The best “age” for a seedling is no more than 2-3 years (such a seedling will bear fruit after 2 or 3 years).
• Inspect the condition of the seedling (leaves, roots, stem: everything should be without damage).
• The branches of the seedling must be flexible
• The bush should have large buds and a well-developed root system.
• You cannot buy too short and long seedlings (short ones have a weak root system, and long ones may take root poorly).

IMPORTANT: Purchase several varieties of this crop at the same time, as some species are self-sterile and require cross-pollination from other crops.

Landing:

• To plant in the ground, you should transfer the seedling clump into the soil
• The transplant should be done when the buds have not yet bloomed.
• You need to plant the shrub in an area where there is plenty of sunlight throughout the day.
• The best spring time for planting - April (end of the month).
• The best autumn time for planting is September (mid-month).

Preparation for landing:

• Prepare the area
• The distance between seedlings should be about 1.5 meters.
• Make a hole for planting
• The hole should be about 40 cm deep
• Add compost to the hole (2 buckets per hole)
• You should also add 3 tbsp. superphosphate into each hole.
• Pour in 1 liter of ash
• Lower the seedling and cover it with loose soil
• After planting, moisten the hole well and evenly
• Place mulch (peat or humus) on the soil of the seedling

IMPORTANT: When planting, try to alternate varieties of honeysuckle (those that pollinate on their own and those that do not pollinate on their own at all).

When does edible honeysuckle begin to bear fruit, in what year, when does it ripen?

Honeysuckle is a bush with a bountiful harvest. To do this, you should care for the crop, observing all the rules for planting, watering, choosing soil and covering the honeysuckle with mulch for the winter. The young seedling will begin to bear fruit after 2 or 3 years of planting in the ground.

IMPORTANT: Honeysuckle is harvested quite early. The first ripe berries can be seen already in the second part of June. Fruiting continues for 3-4 weeks.

How to care for edible honeysuckle after picking the berries?

If you are faced with a situation such as a small honeysuckle harvest. To avoid this, you should care for the bush not only during the flowering period, but also after picking the fruits. The main manipulations with the crop should be carried out in the fall (when the honeysuckle is “dormant”).

Watering and pruning honeysuckle:

• Moisten the soil regularly
• Trim the bush
• Pruning will help the bush produce a good harvest.
• Remove dry branches

IMPORTANT: Pruning is done only after the foliage has completely fallen off in the fall.

Feeding:

• Add organic matter every 3 years
• After watering and fertilizing, loosen the soil every time
• Carefully remove weeds from around
• Mulch in the fall

Feeding honeysuckle with edible food in the spring, during flowering and fruiting, and in the fall and winter with mineral fertilizers and folk remedies: diagram

Feeding honeysuckle in spring:

• The bush should be fed only from the time it turns 3 years old.
• Feed honeysuckle in spring
• Pour 1 bucket of organic fertilizer under each bush.
• Feed honeysuckle in early spring
• At the end of summer, place a 10-liter jar of ash under the bush

IMPORTANT: You can also do nitrogen fertilizing; it is done in early spring, when the snow has just melted (i.e. at the beginning of the growing season). Making fertilizer is simple: dilute 1 tbsp. urea in a bucket of water. Nitrogen fertilizer will allow the plant to bear fruit abundantly (up to 5-6 kg of berries from one bush).

You can feed honeysuckle during flowering, fruiting, and after harvesting:

• It is good to feed the plant with “slurry” (ratio 1:6).
• You can also dilute 7 grams of potassium sulfate and nitrophoska (14-15 grams) in a bucket of water.
• Be careful, young shrubs only need 3 liters of water (adults from 10 to 12 liters).

How to dig up branches of edible honeysuckle and root them with cuttings?

For planting, cuttings should be prepared when they have already begun to become woody. Be careful, the tops of the branches should be grassy and the berries are about to ripen. This feature will allow the cuttings to take root well.

IMPORTANT: It is best to take the petiole from the top of the branch; the flower buds must be removed. A cutting needs 2-3 buds and 1-3 internodes (the cut should be made obliquely 1 cm above the node).

Before you start propagating from cuttings, you should know that not all cuttings take root. You can speed up root formation on a cutting by first scratching it a little and treating it with a special “stimulating” solution.

Honeysuckle cuttings should be carried out in a greenhouse or nursery for greater efficiency. The soil with planted cuttings should be sprinkled with a mixture of peat and sand. The deepening should be made no more than 2 cm. The cuttings are covered with polyethylene on supports (greenhouse). Water the cuttings generously, avoiding drying out. After the greenhouse, the cuttings should be planted in the ground. To do this, prepare a place on the site in advance. Protect the seedlings from wind and draft.

Edible honeysuckle - pruning in autumn: how to prune correctly?

Pruning will provide the shrub with stable growth and a beautiful crown; in addition, the yield of regularly pruned bushes is always high.

When pruning a plant, try to adhere to clear recommendations:

• Pruning should be done after harvest and leaves fall in the fall.
• When pruning, you should remove all dry and damaged branches.
• High-quality pruning of “adult” shrubs should be carried out once every 3 years.
• Pruning young shrubs as needed (if there are a lot of dry and broken branches on it).
• Branches are cut slightly above the base
• The tops of edible honeysuckle cannot be cut off (buds and fruits form on them). Only dry skeletal branches can be removed.
• When pruning, do not touch young branches
• Remove dry bush branches that lie on the soil
• Thin out the inside of the crown

Video: “Pruning honeysuckle”

Is it necessary to cover edible honeysuckle for the winter?

Honeysuckle is a frost-resistant crop (even down to -50 degrees), but still some varieties are whimsical and do not have such endurance. If your winters are cold (-40, -50 degrees), you can insulate your shrubs to protect them from frosty weather.

IMPORTANT: More cover is required for decorative varieties of honeysuckle, and not for edible ones.

How to make a shelter:

• Remove supports from branches
• Bend the branches to the ground, attach them with wire or a stapler (special gardening device).
• It’s good to lay the branches on the peat
• Cover the branches with spruce branches

IMPORTANT: Honeysuckle bark can become an attractive winter food for rodents and birds. Therefore, if there is such a need, cover the bushes with special garden nets or synthetic bags.

Edible honeysuckle - pests and diseases: treatment and treatment

The plant may suffer from:

• Insects
• Viruses
• Gribkov

Honeysuckle diseases:

How to get rid of aphids on edible honeysuckle: what to spray with?

Aphids are a common pest of honeysuckle. It often happens that a shrub affected by aphids gets sick several times during the season. The insect, in turn, infects the plant en masse with its several generations. Because of aphids, the bush weakens, because aphids feed and suck out all the juice from the young shoots of honeysuckle and leaves.

IMPORTANT: The most effective remedy against aphids, in addition to special chemical sprays designed for insects, is infusion of tobacco dust. You need to add a solution of laundry soap to it (a piece of 100 per 10-liter bucket). This product must cover the plant completely and on all sides (it is important to spray in dry weather).

Important and useful 10 secrets for successful cultivation honeysuckle:

1. Choose the right variety (focus on the characteristics of the variety and your land plot).
2. Cross-pollinate honeysuckle (plant several varieties at once for a harvest).
3. Attract pollinating insects (for example, bees and bumblebees - they will significantly increase the fertility of shrubs).
4. Combine varieties (for bush fertility)
5. Properly organize the honeysuckle planting site (observe all soil requirements).
6. Do not allow the honeysuckle crown to be very dense (reduces plant fertility).
7. Prepare the holes correctly and plant the plant (with the whole complex of fertilizers).
8. Water the plant generously during fruiting period
9. Mulch the soil after the harvest season (for the winter)
10. Feed the plant well (organic and nitrogen fertilizers).

Video: “Honeysuckle. Subtleties of cultivation"

Honeysuckle is a shrub that begins to grow earlier than others. Its tasty and juicy berries contain a huge amount of vitamin C, rutin, and B vitamins.

The first 5-7 years bush spends most of its energy on growth, so care for honeysuckle should be aimed at maximizing growth.

It is believed that honeysuckle has entered the phase of full fruiting if it was possible to collect 1 kg of berries from one bush. Usually this is 5-8 years of life. The greatest yields are produced from 8 to 15 years.

Seedlings begin to bear fruit at 3-4 years.

Rooted shoots of honeysuckle can please harvest next year. From 20-25 years of age it needs rejuvenation of skeletal branches.
Number of ovaries directly depends on the weather. In hot dry weather it occurs quick drying pistils and premature flower drop. And in the rain and wind, bees and wasps, which are natural pollinators, do not fly.

The leaves fall early - in mid-September. The rest period begins in November.

Need to plant honeysuckle two different varieties near. The distance between bushes should be at least a meter.

• The growing season begins at an average daily temperature of +3 degrees Celsius.

• Blooms at an average daily temperature of +9 degrees.

• Pledge good harvests– the presence of a neighbor honeysuckle of a different variety. One variety or only honeysuckle bush on the site will not produce decent yields.

• The ovary almost never falls off before maturity, which makes honeysuckle easier to care for.

• It produces growth only in early spring.

• It bears fruit annually on last year's shoots, so caring for honeysuckle is aimed at lengthening its growth. Young branches form shoots from 15 to 30 cm, which in the spring will bear 18-50 fruits. And the old ones - up to 5 cm and 2-4 berries.

• The flowers of the future harvest begin to form at the end of May.

• Honeysuckle is a long-lived bush. At favorable conditions and with good care it can bear fruit for 20 to 130 years in one place. Therefore, choose your planting site carefully.

Where to plant honeysuckle

The shrub can grow in sparse shadow, but gives better yields in good light. Flooded lowlands and sandstones are not suitable. Dig the soil thoroughly and remove perennial weeds. Especially wheatgrass.

Honeysuckle does not tolerate drought well. To retain moisture in the soil, it is necessary to mulch the soil under the bush and water regularly.

But also honeysuckle does not like prolonged flooding root system. In such cases, growth completely stops and may completely wither away.

Plant undemanding to soil acidity. Grows well in medium to heavy soils. On sandy soils that quickly lose moisture, honeysuckle forms short increments. This means that the harvests will be small.

The most favorable time for planting honeysuckle - this is the end of September - the first half of October.

Weeds, especially wheatgrass, greatly inhibit the plant. Timely and high-quality weeding is very important.

Spring planting it is almost always unsuccessful, since the honeysuckle begins to grow early. As a last resort, the bush is replanted in the summer after harvesting. But then she needs to provide shading, watering and mulching the ground around the bush.

The best planting material- two-year-old seedling. It is useful to lim the selected area using lime (200-400 g per m2). To properly plant honeysuckle in the fall, dig a hole measuring 60x60. Depth 40 cm.

The planting pit for honeysuckle is filled:

• rotted manure and peat (10-12 kg)
• ammonium nitrate (30-50 g)
• superphosphate (50-80 g)
• potassium salt (40-50 g)

Make a mound, place a seedling on it, straighten the roots well. Sprinkle with soil. Do not deepen the plant, as honeysuckle does not form additional roots above the root collar.

Compact the earth well. Water - on bush bucket of water. And immediately mulch with peat, straw, hay. Honeysuckle will take root better if you immediately cut the bush at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

From early spring, weed out weeds and break up the earthen crust under the bush. During drought, water regularly. Mulch the ground to preserve moisture with compost, humus, peat.

If the planting pit was filled with fertilizers, then for the first 1-2 years you do not need to feed the honeysuckle.

How to feed honeysuckle

The first feeding in spring is carried out during bud break. The most effective:

urea(20 g per bush)

or saltpeter(30 g),

or ammonium sulfate(40 g).

First dissolve the fertilizer in a bucket of water and water it.

Spring feeding of honeysuckle with nitrogen fertilizer promotes strong shoot formation and increased yield. Intensive shoot growth The bush is very short - only 2 weeks.

Honeysuckle needs to be fertilized regularly: every 2-3 weeks until July. Then, until the end of summer, monitor the soil moisture and destroy weeds.

Feeding honeysuckle in autumn

Add to a depth of 10 cm phosphorus And potassium 15 grams of fertilizer per bush.

On acidic soils, liming is carried out every 3 years, adding 200-300 g of lime to the tree trunk in the fall.

How to prune honeysuckle

The bush is not pruned for the first 3-5 years. Then only the branches that thicken the crown and the dried tops are removed. It is most effective to prune honeysuckle in the fall using this pattern.

From the age of 15, the oldest skeletal branches are cut out until there is strong young growth at the base of the bush.

Gradual update branches help maintain stable yields for many years. Honeysuckle can be propagated by seeds.