Instructions for using cement-sand grout for joints “Ideal joint. Features of grouting tiles: types and application technology Mortar for joints

The content of the article:

Applying tile grout is the final stage of tiling work. It involves preparing a special composition and filling the seams between piece materials. At the same time, the finished coating becomes airtight and acquires an attractive appearance. Everything about proper grouting you will learn about tiles today from our article.

Main types of grout mixtures for tiles

Before starting grouting tile joints you should decide on the type of mixture and the requirements for it. Currently, there are two main types of such material:

Dry cement-based mixtures. They, in turn, are divided into two types: compositions with and without filler. The filler of the first type of mixture is quartz sand, which performs a reinforcing function and makes frozen cladding seams more durable. The second type of mixtures has a fine-grained structure. These grouts can be used without fear of scratching the sensitive surface of glazed tiles. In addition to the cement base and filler, both tile grouting compositions include various additives that provide the joints with certain properties: plasticity, water resistance, protection against fungus, frost resistance, color, etc.
Two-component synthetic mixtures. They are based on epoxy or furan resins containing dyes. During the preparation of the grout, a hardener is added to the composition, which ensures polymerization of the mixture after filling the cladding joints. Furan resins are used to a greater extent for the preparation of tile grout used in production, since the process of working with them is quite technically complex. The most common are epoxy grouts. They have high strength, elasticity, a huge variety of colors and resistance to chemicals, including acids.

After choosing the type of grout, you need to decide on its desired color. This stage is very important, since the future appearance of the entire cladding depends on it. Skillfully chosen color grout can enhance the advantages of the tile and even take over a significant part of the decorative design surfaces, transforming the interior of the room. Conversely, the wrong choice of color can spoil the impression of the most expensive and high-quality tiles.

Calculation of the amount of tile grout

It is quite difficult to calculate the estimated consumption of the mixture for grouting tile joints. Even the numbers that product manufacturers indicate on packages often vary. An unpleasant moment occurs when the grout unexpectedly ends, not justifying the consumption rates stated in the instructions.

To minimize miscalculations when buying grout, you need to consider:

Tile texture. Grout consumption, taking into account the collection of its excess from relief surface, there will be more.
Tile sizes. From a mathematical point of view, everything is simple here: the larger the area of each fragment, the fewer seams on the surface of the cladding. That is, when processing the seams between small tiles, more mixture will be consumed, and vice versa: the larger the tile, the less grout will be consumed.
Seam width. It is characterized by the size of the plastic crosses that were used when laying the tiles.

Usually the ratio is taken as the basis: 0.4 kg of grout per 1 m 2 of standard tiles. With a small thickness of tile joints, you can use the following formula to calculate the amount of grout: W = (A + B) x H x W x P / (A x B). Here A is the length of the tile, B is its width, H is the thickness, W is the width of the seam, P is the density of the grout mixture. All dimensions are taken in millimeters.

Preparatory work before grouting tile joints

You should grout the tile joints with your own hands no earlier than 24 hours after laying the coating, but you shouldn’t put it off for a longer period. This is due to a number of reasons:

The day after laying the last tile, the glue has not yet gained its final strength, so it is possible to easily remove stains and dirt missed the day before.
The residual moisture of the tiles ensures better adhesion of the grout to the material. Conversely, special moistening of dried joints causes an increased water content in the grout, which makes the mixture liquid and reduces its elasticity. It is much more difficult to apply and distribute such a composition over the seams.
It is not recommended to leave cladding seams open for a long time due to their possible contamination. Small debris and even dust caught in the gaps between tiles can make any grout difficult to apply.

The color of the grout should be selected in accordance with the color of the laid tiles. Generally accepted design rules do not use more than two primary colors in the interior of one room. Therefore, minor deviations in the brightness of the grout shades are acceptable, but not differences in color. When combining tiles of different colors, you should stock up on the appropriate grout mixtures.

If there is no grout that matches the color of the tile, you can make it yourself. To do this you need to buy white mixture and add to it the required amount of pigment, which is used for water-based paints. By gradually adding it and stirring the composition, the grout can be given the desired color.

Depending on the method of work, appropriate tools are used for grouting tiles. But the basic set is as follows: a metal spatula for stirring the mixture, a small plastic bowl or bucket with a capacity of no more than 2 liters, a bucket of water and a clean rag, a rubber or plastic spatula with a rubber tip.

Rules for preparing grout for tiles

The grout mixture must be prepared immediately before starting work, since it is not stored for a long time and hardens after a short period of time. For the same reason, it is prepared in small portions, especially in cases where the performer does not have solid skills in performing such work.

When preparing cement grout, the dry component of the mixture must be poured into a clean plastic container and then the required amount of water specified by the manufacturer on the product packaging must be added to it. Kneading should be done manually at first and then continued mechanically using a construction mixer. It is a special attachment with blades that is clamped in a chuck electric drill.

The result of the work should be a homogeneous solution of thick consistency. If liquid dye is used to color the grout, it must be added to the finished paste, and then mixed again with a mixer. When using dry pigment, it is added to the main composition before diluting the mixture with water. After mixing, the solution should be left for 10-15 minutes to complete the chemical reaction in it, and then mixed again using a mixer.

Epoxy grout is made from two components. One package contains epoxy resin with pigment, the other contains a hardener. It is added to the resin, and then the solution is thoroughly mixed. When introducing a hardener, it is very important to maintain the proportion of grout components. It is also indicated in the instructions included with the material.

It should be studied very carefully, since different manufacturers produce grouts that differ in the content of components and recommendations for mixing them. Epoxy grout is also prepared in batches, but its polymerization time is much shorter than that of a cement mixture. Therefore, the work must be done quickly and accurately; beginners are often unable to do this.

Before diluting cement or epoxy tile grout, you should acquire eye, skin and respiratory protection. This is due to the fact that cement and epoxy resin hardener have harmful effects on the body. Therefore, thick protective clothing, safety glasses, gloves and a respirator will be very useful.

Technology of applying grout to tiles

There are several ways to apply grout to tiles. Each of them is used depending on the volume of work and the texture of the cladding surface. Let's look at them in detail:

. You need to put a little grout mixture on the working part of the tool and, moving it across the seam, forcefully press the solution into the gap between the tiles. Then, using a spatula along the seam, you need to remove the excess mixture. The force must be sufficient so that the grout, pressed by the rubber plate of the tool, fills the entire joint cavity, because only under this condition will the tile cladding be guaranteed tightness. Cement and epoxy grouts are applied in this way.
Applying grout with a float. This method is less accurate than the previous one, but for significant volumes of work it is used. The finished mixture must be applied to the cladding and spread evenly with a float in a diagonal direction relative to the seams, carefully filling them with the composition. By pressing the grout into the seams, you need to completely fill all the voids that are not filled with tile adhesive. During operation, the liquid fraction of the mixture will gradually come out, and the seams will be filled with a dense grout composition, including filler, cement and polymer additives. The grout paste does not need to be immediately applied to the entire surface of the cladding. After treating 1 m2 of coating, you should determine how quickly the solution hardens, and only after that decide on the frequency of stops in the main work to clean the treated areas.
Applying grout with a bag cone. A grout cone is similar to a regular baking bag with a tip. Before applying grout to the tile, it needs to be filled with a mixture that will come out of the container through the tip when you squeeze the bag with your hand. In this case, the nose of the cone should be pressed tightly against the seam. The grout should be squeezed out a little more than is required to fill the joint to the top. The movement of the cone begins at the top and, as the mixture is consumed, ends at the bottom. As the grout begins to set, it must be pressed into the gap between the tiles using a piece of rubber cable having a diameter slightly larger than the width of the seam. After 30 minutes, is there excess mixture? pressed between tiles? should be removed with a stiff brush. This method is used when processing the seams of tiles that have a porous surface that is difficult to clean using another grouting method, for example, natural or artificial stone.
Applying grout with a syringe gun. This method is used when working outdoors, with a large volume of work, or when processing seams on sandy and porous surfaces of stone and tiles. When grouting tiles with a gun, the work is carried out with precise filling of the entire joint cavity, eliminating the formation of voids and air bubbles. At the same time, the cleanliness of the tiles is maintained, material losses are minimized, and the grouting speed increases. The finished mixture should be loaded into the gun using a trowel or spatula. Then, by carefully squeezing it out of the tool, the grout fills the vertical seams between the tiles from top to bottom, and the horizontal seams from left to right. The gun ensures with its work an attractive appearance of the cladding and long-term safety of its seams.

Features of processing tile seams

After filling the joints with the grout mixture, it is necessary to process them dry and wet. This is very important stage work, which determines the tightness of the gaps between the cladding elements and their appearance.

Dry seam finishing

It is performed using a special grater and serves to remove excess grout from the tiles. The tool must be held perpendicular to the surface of the cladding and moved diagonally towards the seams, being careful not to touch them.

If, when hitting a seam, the trowel grabs a lump of grout, the dent left behind must be filled again with the mixture, and the surface of the seam leveled. The final polymerization of the mixture requires a certain time, its duration depends on the composition of the grout.

In the process of cleaning the previous section of coating from excess mixture, you need to periodically stir the paste in the container so that it is always ready for processing joints in the next section of cladding.

Wet processing of seams

On average, it takes 10-30 minutes for the moisture to evaporate and the grout to harden in the joints. The speed depends on the type of base, type of adhesive and tile, temperature and humidity. Moreover, the surface of the seam can become hard quite quickly, while it inner part will remain viscous. Therefore, before grouting the joints on the tiles using a wet method, you should check the readiness of the filled joints for such processing. To do this, they need to be tested on a small area of the cladding with a well-moistened sponge.

The mixture in the joints should not be hard, but elastic and dense. If the grout is trailing behind the wet sponge, it means that it is not yet ready for wet processing. For now, you can remove the paste that has dried on the tiles with a special grater, which does not leave any scratches on the glaze or enamel. After such cleaning, the tiles should be wiped with a damp sponge.

To clean the cladding and seams, you should have a bucket clean water and a soft sponge with rounded edges. In this form, it will not leave grooves when grouting joints. Wet the sponge generously and remove excess mixture in a circular motion from the tiles and joints of the coating. After cleaning 1-2 m2 of cladding, the sponge should be washed and lightly wrung out, and after treating 8-9 m2, change the water in the bucket.

After completing the first stage of cleaning, you should inspect the worn seams and level them, if necessary, first with a smooth plastic or wooden stick of a rounded shape, and then with a sponge wrung out of water.

The shape of the seam is chosen according to personal desire. If the cladding consists of tiles with sharp and smooth edges, grout joint usually formed flush with them. If the top edge of the tile is round, the shape of the joint is most often chosen by the contractor, but the grout mixture should not protrude beyond the surface of the cladding.

At the final stage, you should wipe the ceramics and seams again, removing not the excess grout, but the whitish cloudy coating. The process must be continued until the cladding takes on its final form. After this, it should be left to dry.

Grouts that contain latex or acrylic additives, adhere more firmly to surfaces and therefore can be more difficult to clean. In such cases, traces of the mixture can be removed with special acid-containing products. But they can only be used after the grout has completely polymerized.

To remove traces of epoxy grout tiles on the walls use special means, acidic environment they are not afraid. They can be purchased immediately when purchasing the material. The kit should include a special “shaggy” cloth, which will be needed to clean the tiles.

Advice! In order to further protect the seams from moisture, rubbed cement mixture, they can be covered with a layer of sealant. This can be done easily with a thin brush.

How to grout tile seams - watch the video:

For final drying tile grout it will take about three weeks. After this you can rejoice beautiful cladding bathroom, sealed floor or a chic backsplash on the wall next to the stove.

The modern market offering building and facing materials has a wide range. However, the leaders in this area have been identified a long time ago, and tiles are included in this list. This material is practical, durable, and attractive in appearance.

Laying tiles is possible with your own hands, and in order for the result of the work to be completed, it is used. She not only performs aesthetic role, but also practical, making the surface airtight and more durable.

engaged in the production of grout mixtures a large number of companies. They differ in their type, purpose, quality, cost and other factors. Therefore, the choice of a specific option should be taken consciously.

About cooking regular moisture-resistant grout Between the seams of tiles in the bathroom, in the kitchen and in other rooms we will talk with our own hands below.

For the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms

You can use any mixture to grout joints in the kitchen. Its types have proven themselves most well in this room. They have the optimal ratio of durability and palette diversity. Resistant to chemicals and humidity level suitable for this type of room.

The bathroom is characterized by regular temperature changes and high humidity. Application of grout on cement based will significantly reduce their service life, in addition, there is a high risk of mold and mildew. For this room, it is recommended to use silicone or epoxy resin-based grout. They also come in a variety of colors.
For swimming pools, and external cladding It is better to use resin-based tile grout (furan and epoxy). They are designed for prolonged contact with water, exposure to acids and other chemicals, as well as regular loads.

Grouting tile joints in the bathroom is discussed in the video below:

For floors and walls

Polymer cement grouts are made from a polymer base, which makes them stronger and more durable.

These compounds can be used for grouting walls in new buildings, since after the walls shrink, they will not crack, maintaining their original appearance and integrity.
For others interior walls Suitable grouts based on cement and. A more durable and hardy option that can be used when exterior decoration And flooring, is an epoxy mixture.

When choosing a grout mixture, you should consider the location of their application. For exterior finishing and flooring, you should choose more expensive and durable compounds.

Also important option is to study the instructions for them, where the manufacturer indicates the areas of their use.

For ceramic and clinker products

WITH ceramic tiles The grout intended for bathrooms is most often combined. It not only withstands temperature changes and high humidity, but also allows you to hide mistakes made during the installation process. Its color is selected depending on the color scheme of the tile, performing, in addition to a practical, also a decorative function.
For styling clinker tiles a grout is required for joints, which has high level adhesion to the material, resistance to temperature changes and high humidity. In addition, it must allow steam to pass through to extend the life of the tile.

How to choose the color of the grout mixture ceramic tiles, read below.

How to choose a base color

Before directly purchasing the finished composition, you should consider a number of nuances:

Dark shades of grout will provide contrast to the tile, highlighting its pattern.
The use of light shades will ensure a visual monochrome of the surface, making it a single whole. This option is optimal for hiding seams of different widths.
White grout is considered less practical, since any dirt on it is visible. Also, the use of white seams has fallen out of fashion.
When laying mosaics, it is better to use transparent grout, which will make the pattern whole.
You can create an unusual surface effect by using gold, silver and pearlescent grout.
The optimal grout color is a difference of 1-2 shades from the surface itself.

Read about how to prepare grout for joints between tiles in the next section.

How to make a mortar for grouting tiles

Ready-made grout mixtures can be mixed with water or latex-based liquid additives. Its volume should be selected in such quantity that the result is a plastic mixture that is easily distributed over the tile. Excessive liquid will degrade the performance of the grout, making it weaker. The proportions must be strictly observed with the recommendations on the packaging.

During the mixing process, add ¾ of the entire liquid to a clean container, then add all the dry components into it and mix thoroughly. The remaining liquid is added in small portions under careful control of consistency.

To ensure high-quality mixing of all components, you can use special mixers or trowels. In this case, the mixer itself is completely immersed in the solution to prevent air from entering. At the end of the procedure, the prepared solution is left for 5-10 minutes, after which it is used as directed.

This video will show you how to grout tiles:

Application technology

Before you start grouting, you need to treat the old seams and thoroughly clean the surface. After this stage, all the tools necessary for grouting the tile joints are prepared. Namely:

A clean container for mixing the solution;
Container with water or other liquid;
Spatula made of rubber and steel;
Sponge for cleaning the surface;
Grout gun.

The finished mixture is applied to a steel spatula, from which a small amount is taken with a rubber spatula. The seams are filled at a slight angle and to their full depth. Residues are also removed with a rubber spatula, running it parallel to each gap. The first application process will show how much mixture is needed for the seam. The entire surface area is processed using the same principle.

After the solution has been applied, you need to wait about half an hour and then clean the surface with a damp sponge. These actions should be carried out in a circular motion and the sponge should be cleaned regularly, otherwise streaks will appear on the tiles.

If, during the grouting process, poorly processed seams were identified, the grouting process is repeated, followed by cleaning the tiles. To improve the aesthetic effect, a special varnish is applied to the seams.

We’ll talk further about the cost of materials for grouting tiles and the price for the work.

Cost of work and materials

Creating grout or restoring seams using the services of craftsmen will cost about 500 rubles per 1 sq. m. m. Depending on the experience and qualifications of the master, the cost can vary significantly. To save costs, you can do this work yourself, having first studied its technology.

The cost of finished grout will also differ depending on its type and country of origin. A simpler version will cost 150-200 rubles. for 2 kg. When preparing grout yourself, costs are taken into account depending on the number of components used.

Popular brands of prepared foods

Ceresit;
Baulux;
Atlas;
Mapei;
Knauf.

Using grout for joints allows you to extend the life of the tiles, protect the integrity of the masonry, and also give it a finished aesthetic appearance. A variety of compositions allows you to choose best option by type of room, choice of material and financial capabilities.

A bunch of useful tips on grouting ceramic tiles is contained in this video tutorial:

Tile joints without additional processing may lose not only their attractive appearance, but also their performance characteristics. If you do not provide protection from moisture, over time the grout will begin to deteriorate, the tiles will begin to loosen and fall out. Seams also need protection from chemicals, because detergent accelerates their destruction. Our article will help you decide what kind of impregnation is needed for tile joints and how to use it.

All numerous protective compounds and impregnations for tile joints can be divided into several main categories.

Protective compounds and impregnations are divided by composition:

Polymer varnishes.
Acrylic sealants.
Silicone sealants.
Latex-based protective compounds.

There are also types of funds according to their intended purpose:

Protective. The seams are protected from mechanical and chemical damage. Suitable for working with old tiles.
Strengthening. Strengthening compounds are intended for low-price cement-based putties. They must be applied before the cement putty has completely set. The protective composition will penetrate deep and strengthen the structure.
Moisture resistant. The seams will be protected from subsequent cracking. Used for tile joints in bathrooms or other rooms with high humidity.
Universal. Such compositions can be used for grouting, as well as as a separate impregnation. These hybrid mixtures do not require re-processing, since they themselves contain impregnation in their composition.

What seams need to be treated?

As a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the grout label information about whether the grouted joint needs to be further processed. Some modern types allow you to avoid grouting, since they already contain protective (anti-fungal or sealing) additives.

The putty may require protection from moisture (use a water repellent) or other environmental influences. Before purchasing impregnation, you need to clarify which impregnation the manufacturers recommend using.

Surface various types tiles (porcelain tiles, tiles, cotto) may react differently to the application of impregnation for tile joints. Some impregnations may be incompatible with a particular type, so you need to study the manufacturer's recommendations for working on seams.
Cement-based putty needs increased protection from moisture. Such putties on the seams do not have any protection against moisture.
Putties based on polymer (epoxy) resin are much better protected from high humidity. These putties should be coated with protective or decorative compositions. They protect against abrasions, stains, and exposure to household chemicals.
Tile seams of floor tiles, as well as joints near walls, are most often filled with water and are subject to mechanical stress, so they need to be treated first. Use a water repellent.
For processing joints with light or colored grout, polymer joint varnish is well suited. Without protective impregnation, such grout will inevitably begin to fade and become dirty.
To protect and enhance the brightness of light-colored or colored ceramic tile joints, use a glossy protective compound. To do this, you can use glossy polymer varnishes.

Many modern protective compounds simultaneously have protective water-repellent properties and can be used to treat ceramic tile joints in any room. Information about the properties and purposes of using the impregnation can be found in the description on the label. Experts recommend paying more attention to an effective water repellent, because seams are more wet areas constantly compete with water.

Cement-based putties must be treated with sealing compounds. Without additional treatment, destruction will begin over time.

On video: how to effectively protect tile joints.

Applying protective impregnation to seams

After grouting, the seams must be completely dry. The grout mixture has different manufacturers will different period dry and ready for further processing.

To be on the safe side, you can avoid touching the sealed surface for a week. During this time, everything is guaranteed to dry out.

Before application, you need to isolate the tiles from contact with the protective composition. For example, you can carefully glue it with paper tape and leave only the seams uncovered. This will be better for tiles with a monotonous or one-color pattern, on which various defects are more noticeable.

The seams between the tiles are coated with a thin brush. This method guarantees high-quality, uniform coverage. Compositions with deep penetrating ability are applied in 2 layers, since the first layer is almost completely absorbed into the grout. A double layer will provide the best protection.

Impregnation can change the color of the grout to an undesirable one, so you need to first test the impregnation on a small area that is not visible. You can make a test sample from tile scraps.

Cover the material with impregnation subject to certain temperature and air humidity levels. These indicators are indicated on the label. If they are not followed, the impregnation may lose its properties and even begin to fall off. It is best to use a universal impregnating water repellent.

After applying the protective impregnation, it will be better to leave it for 1-2 days to completely dry and harden. After this, further processing can be carried out.

A few tips to help give the new kind for old tile joints:

If they are not subject to destruction or cracking, which is caused by moisture or mechanical stress, then they can simply be coated with one layer of deep penetration impregnation. It protects from destruction.
Colored seams can be cleaned and renewed acrylic paint, then apply a layer of protective impregnation (acrylic or polymer)
Dirt is removed with a toothbrush and bleach. Treat heavy soiling baking soda with vinegar. Soda is poured in, then vinegar is poured in. Happening chemical reaction, which pushes dirt out of the pores.

Polymer varnish is perfect for processing cement joint. It completely saturates the seam, strengthens its structure and provides complete protection from moisture.

At the moment, a fairly large number of building and facing materials are used. And upon completion of their laying, the stage of grouting the joints begins. Enough attention should be paid to the choice of mixture and the work process itself. great attention, since incorrectly selected and organized grout can worsen the appearance of even ideal stone, tile or brick masonry.

So, today we will talk in more detail about the technical characteristics of dry and liquid mortar for jointing, sealing the seams of brick and other masonry, screeds, weathering of the mixture, its GOST, what is dressing of seams on cement mortar and about the nuances associated with this.

Grouting the joints is the final touch in laying materials. It not only gives the surface a finished look, but also has practical significance. Namely, the grout protects the seams from moisture and sudden temperature changes. With it, any masonry will have a longer service life.

If there is a question about the need to grout, then in this case it is important to know that even at first glance, ideal masonry contains microcracks. They are the optimal place for the accumulation of moisture, fungus and microorganisms, which over time have a detrimental effect not only on the service life of the surface and appearance, but also on the microclimate of the room. To avoid such cases, grouting is carried out.

Depending on the components used and their quality, ready-made mixtures for joints may have different technical characteristics. This also applies to the purpose of the grout (for internal or external surfaces, for, or). More accurate information is provided by the manufacturer.

To obtain a mixture of a homogeneous structure, it is recommended to use compositions from the same production and batch. It is very convenient if you have a special gun for sealing joints with mortar.

Read on to find out what mixtures there are and what to cover after grouting.

A specialist will tell you what kind of grout this is and what its peculiarity is in the video below:

Types of mixture

Depending on the main component, there are the following types mixtures.

Cement

The mixtures are made on the basis. To improve their fluidity and slow down the setting process, they may contain special additives. When diluting the mixture with a latex plasticizer, the composition increases water repellent properties, as well as the level of adhesion.

The solution is used for grouting small joints (up to 5 mm), in other cases it is advisable to choose. The finished composition is filled with water, stirred, and after 5 minutes of exposure, you can begin to work with the solution.

Epoxy

This type contains a hardener (colored) and epoxy resin. This grout is highly resistant to chemicals and moisture.

The viscous structure of the mixture complicates the process of its application and subsequent cleaning from facing materials.

Polymer

The underlying polymers give ready-made composition increased frost and moisture resistance, and also improves its plasticity.

The grout hardens without forming cracks and is easily washed off from the surface of the masonry. To improve strength, the composition may include liquid polymers.

Furanic

The mixture has a rich black color, so it is used only in production premises. The furan resins included in its composition make the grout resistant to various types of chemicals.

The video below presents a master class on grouting floor tiles:

Restoration of old seams

Grouting joints on the floor, walls, bathrooms and other rooms sometimes requires restoration.

A quick and cheap way to update old grout is by painting it. All you need is paint, toothbrushes or a small brush, and chlorine-based bleach. After thoroughly cleaning the old seams from dirt and dust, apply bleach mixed with water in a 1:1 ratio for 10 minutes. After removing it from the surface, you can apply paint. This method of restoration is effective for six months.
For a longer lasting result, it is necessary to replace the old grout with a new one. You will need a seam stitcher and a special tool for creating them, a vacuum cleaner, a rubber spatula and a brush. Old seams are removed with a stitcher; you can also use a knife or screwdriver. New grout is applied with a rubber spatula.
If the color of the grout does not match the color scheme of the facing material, you can change it by adding color. This paste is added to the grout solution and mixed thoroughly. To select the desired shade, the color is poured into the mixture in small parts.

Quite popular mixtures for grouting and filling joints are Atlas and Quick mix, which have good technical characteristics.

How to remove grout

When replacing grout for joints, the old one is removed completely. If not special tool, you can use a construction knife. Its choice depends on the experience of the master and frequency of use. It is important that the blade does not scratch the facing material.

Once the old grout is removed, the grout is cleaned using a broom and brush or a handheld vacuum cleaner. Next, the grooves are covered with new grout.

From the video below you will learn how to remove grout from tile joints:

The final stage in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always sealing the seams. After this operation, the tilework becomes complete and neat.

Grouting tile joints in the bathroom with your own hands is a completely affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced craftsman. One has only to start and get the hang of it - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the chosen material. So, for those who do not have experience in the work, it is better to choose a grout that dries for a long time. Using a quickly hardening material can ruin the entire appearance of even a well-placed tile.

Joint filler is designed to protect adhesive composition, on which the tiles are laid, wall and floor surfaces from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with unclosed seams it will not stay long on walls and floors, and on the surfaces underneath it will create a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew, which will sooner or later affect the base.

To make it easy to work with the material, and to make the seams between the tiles neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry compounds or sold already in finished form, must have the following qualities:

The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable for the mixture to have hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles, which will prevent the grout from penetrating the entire depth of the seam and leaving air voids.
The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of joints, since it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow the work to be done quickly.
Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble and be washed out when cleaning.
Hydrophobicity of the material after hardening. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
Resistance to household chemical detergents, as any tile covering requires periodic cleaning.
Aesthetic appearance. The seams between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should be in maximum harmony with the

Types of grout based on material of manufacture

Today you can find one- and two-component grouts on sale, produced in the form of dry mixtures, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are manufactured on various basic bases:

Cement.
Polymer-cement.
Cement-sand.
Polyurethane.
Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium “liquid glass” and other materials.

However, self-production the material may not be of very high quality, and the filler will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature changes. Grouts produced in a factory using all technologies and using special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those made at home.

Therefore it is better to purchase ready materials, especially since they are quite affordable. It is recommended to make grout yourself only in extreme cases.

Cement-based joint fillers

Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. Most produce them famous companies on production building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - those made with or without the addition of sand.

The mixture, which contains sand, is used to seal wide joints, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer, fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of joints a particular composition is intended.

For the production of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which is finely ground, so that when kneading the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, to achieve elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be prepared using water room temperature, or latex based. The latter will be called polymer-cement grout.

A correctly mixed mixture will ensure a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but will also give neatness to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixtures can be packaged in paper bags or plastic buckets.

Cement grouts may have different colour. Some manufacturers produce compositions already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during production.

If desired, metallic “gold” or “silver” powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone joint fillers

Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packaged in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints using a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is essentially a sealant. It completely covers the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, and has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler in particularly difficult areas

This joint filler is most often used in combination with other grouting compounds. Basically, it is used to seal gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the joints of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its only disadvantage is that it is produced silicone sealant in a small variety of shades - white or transparent compositions mainly predominate.

It is easy to fill seams with silicone sealant; the main thing is to make the correct cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it should correspond to the width of the seam, and press evenly on the handle of the construction gun. Then the filler will flow into the seams in an even strip.

Resin based grouts

Epoxy joint filler

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - an epoxy composition and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is characterized by high strength and resistance to external mechanical influences, as well as high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy joint filler has a very long service life. This grout does not lose its original appearance for 45–50 years.

After combining the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency and is quite difficult to work with. Therefore, if you have no experience in filling seams, but have decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional craftsman.

Epoxy grout is recommended for use in cases where there are wide joints between the tiles, over 6 mm. It fills cavities well and, when hardened, acquires high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the cladding of walls and floors where epoxy filler was used to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high-quality ceramic tiles with perfectly smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is an epoxy filler option that includes composition of Portland cement, which acts as a fixative. Working with this material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it hardens it takes on the characteristics of traditional epoxy aggregate.

If desired, one of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, mixed traditionally or using Portland cement. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will look especially advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6÷8 mm.

The price for this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it is used for covering surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory premises, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially necessary.

Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis furanol with the addition of fupphilic alcohol. The resulting material, when cured, acquires the most high quality resistance to any influences, either chemical detergents, acids, ultra-violet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, just like the epoxy mixture, does not contain water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

When choosing this filler, you need to know that working with it is quite difficult, since it requires a special approach to preparing the joint surfaces.

The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color variety, since it has only color- black .

This grout is rarely used to refine tiles at home, although it should be noted that black color can be combined with any shade of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws at the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.

Polyurethane grout

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic composition made on the basis of polyurethane resins and aqueous dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting joints with a width of 1 ÷ 6 mm between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The grout composition is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned from dirt and has high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of joint filler has a rich range of pastel colors, which allows you to match it to any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for sealing joints between tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.

Prices for grout for tile joints

Grout for tile joints

Making your own grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know several recipes for preparing joint filler at home, since there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it’s not at all difficult.

Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simplest recipe for making aggregate is to use cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed dry, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

To prepare cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, you can add metal powder to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from what you bought at a hardware store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, you will get a classic grout that will be identical to that produced in a factory.

Gypsum grout

Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary because without it the hardened plaster will be very fragile.

In addition, lime will extend the hardening time of the gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum sets and hardens quickly, so you shouldn’t make a large amount of material - it’s best to do it in small portions. After using up each portion of grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be thoroughly cleaned each time, since small and large frozen particles of gypsum will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and is not flexible enough, so it can crumble under mechanical stress. In addition, it is capable of absorbing moisture, so it is better not to use such grout in the bathroom.

Alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it was before, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so previously a supply of it could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which They have a narrowly focused purpose and cope well with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic from this material for sealing seams. The process of its preparation is simple and consists of adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. You should not mix a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But it can be used temporarily if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

Clay grout

There is no need to write off materials such as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing works, since it has good hydrophobic properties. Preparing joint filler from this material will create a little more hassle than when mixing it from cement and sand or gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various solid inclusions, from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to speed up the hardening of the grout. Very little lime and cement are poured. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role it still focuses on clay.

For production, you can use material of any color; if desired, color and metal powder are added to it.

Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout mixture.

How much grouting material is required?

So for high-quality finishing it is best to use special compounds industrial production. But how many of them need to be purchased?

Typically, on the packaging of the grout, the manufacturer indicates the average material consumption per square meter tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tiles and the specific thickness of the joints.

It is probably clear to everyone that the smaller the tile, the more of it is laid per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for different types of tiles can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed as follows:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, alphabetic symbols indicate:

Ry– specific consumption grout per square meter area;

L And M– respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles selected for laying (mm);

h– tile thickness (mm);

d– planned width of the gap between the tiles – joint thickness (mm);

k– coefficient taking into account density mortar mixture material. It would not be a big mistake to assume its value is approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - most grout mixtures have exactly the same density (in kg/dm³).

The resulting value can only be multiplied by the area of the surface covered with tiles and, to be on the safe side, add another 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1 ×Ry × S

S– area of the surface to be tiled.

Rsum– the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make the task easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below calculation, which contains all the mentioned ratios, including the 10% reserve.