home · Other · Instructions for assembling a shower screen. Installing a shower corner with a tray with your own hands. How to assemble a shower stall - corner

Instructions for assembling a shower screen. Installing a shower corner with a tray with your own hands. How to assemble a shower stall - corner

Do you want to save space in your bathroom by installing a shower? The bathroom is a place of relaxation that should be practical and aesthetically pleasing, right? Are you planning to do all the installation work yourself, but are you confused about installing a shower tray and connecting plumbing?

We will show you how to cope with this task - the article discusses the important points that you will encounter during installation. We also paid attention to the features of pallets made of various materials, describing in detail the installation process of each option.

To help the novice plumber, we have selected photographic materials demonstrating important nuances, and a video describing in detail the assembly and installation of a compact shower cabin.

Manufacturers are ready to surprise the most sophisticated owner, offering many shapes, sizes and design options.

One of the first classifications is the division of models by shape. It can be square, oval, round, triangular, rectangular products.

It is worth choosing the shape and size of the tray that will distribute the space in the bathroom as ergonomically as possible with the appropriate level of convenience.

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Another classification is related to the material used. Today you can purchase a pallet from:

  • cast iron;
  • acrylic;
  • marble;
  • ceramics;
  • become.

In this case, the pallet can be installed different ways: using a metal frame, pedestal or flat surface (for ceramic models).

It is worth noting that marble products are very fragile and can be damaged by impact during the installation stage, so all work must be done as carefully as possible. A ceramic tray can also crack from an impact.

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Each manufacturing material has its own characteristics:

  • cast iron and steel models may be uncomfortably cold in the morning;
  • acrylic warm to the touch, but quite fragile;
  • quaryl– these are the same acrylic products, but with the addition of quartz dust, due to which the booth becomes stronger and more durable;
  • marble the trays have a spectacular appearance and quickly warm up, giving a pleasant tactile sensation when in contact with the skin;
  • ceramic models heat up slowly, but are practical in everyday use and durable.

Prices for ceramics and stone products are significantly higher compared to other models of shower trays.

Pallets also differ in depth. When choosing, you can use the following guideline: very flat (6-10 cm), medium (10-18 cm), deep (25-35 cm).

Pallet Installation Instructions

Installation rules often depend on the material from which the pallet is made, so we will consider four popular options. Acrylic and steel modifications are more common, while cast iron, marble and ceramic are less common.

The standard cycle of work for installing and connecting shower trays includes a number of traditional stages:

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After installing and fixing the pallet, you can safely proceed to the finishing stages of work:

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No. 1 - installation of acrylic models

Acrylic solutions have the lightest weight, affordable price and are sold in a variety of shapes and sizes. Such models are equipped with brackets, legs and other fittings that help to install and secure the pallet to the base.

A design flaw in many cheap models is the lack of reinforcing support under the bottom, so when choosing, you need to pay attention to ensuring that the bottom is reinforced.

Step 1. Installation of legs. Depending on the model, the kit may include from 3 to 5 supports.

A number of products use a support frame based on plastic or metal. The holes for mounting the legs will be located in this frame.

When screwing in the supports, you need to ensure that the length of the legs is no less than the height of the siphon. Also, all supports must be screwed in to the same height (then you can adjust the horizontal position of the pallet using a level)

Make sure that all supports (studs, legs) are screwed in, and after installation, adjust the tray to a strictly horizontal position

Step 2. Installation of the drain system. It is necessary to place the product on its edge. A complete bushing is inserted inside and is used for connection.

The siphon pipe is placed on the protruding end of the sleeve. To prevent leaks, the joints are coated with glue. You can use epoxy glue or epoxy plasticine. Connect the pipe and the bushing, and seal the connection with sealant on top.

Some models of shower cabins may use a connection system with paronite or polymer gaskets. In this case, there is no need to use glue. Place the tray on the legs, making sure that the edge of the siphon does not touch the floor.

Step 3. Adjusting the tray position. Now it's time to adjust the horizontal structure. To do this, we rotate the legs, placing a level on the walls of the tray (the grooves in which the shower enclosure will be mounted).

Horizontal alignment must be checked on all sides of the pallet. If the product is installed against a wall or corner of the room, then it is necessary to lubricate the surfaces in contact with each other with glue and press firmly.

You need to wait until the glue dries, and then strengthen the seal with sealant, applying a layer of it to the contact point between the sides of the pallet and the wall.

The space under the acrylic tray can be filled with polyurethane foam, which will serve as a support cushion and soundproofing protection

Step 4. Siphon connection to the outlet pipe sewer system, installation of the decorative casing that comes with the pallet.

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No. 2 - installation of a cast iron pan

The installation of a cast iron product is similar in steps to the installation of an acrylic tray.

The fundamental difference lies only in the design of cast iron models:

  1. Cast iron is a very durable and impact-resistant metal. There are no reinforcing elements in its design, and the legs are integral part pallet and are cast simultaneously with the body.
  2. To align such a model horizontally, you will have to lay steel strips under the legs or other objects that will prevent pushing flooring, because The cast iron pan has significant weight.
  3. The sides of the cast iron product are not glued to the wall of the room.

But how to secure the pallet so that it does not move off the plates installed under the supports?

This problem can be solved by cementing bosses that will frame each leg, preventing movement. An ordinary matchbox will do for formwork.

It is worth noting that assembled shower cabins are not equipped with cast iron trays. They are usually used with simpler fences, including curtains, screens, and other lightweight materials that do not require precision, so as not to fit them to the geometry of the pallet.

For cast iron pallets, a full shower enclosure is rarely used; curtains are usually used. If aesthetic integrity is maintained, curtains are sufficient

Sometimes the height of the legs of such a product is not enough to place a drain siphon under it. In this case, you have to prepare a special parapet.

The procedure is not difficult to implement. It is enough to lay bricks around the perimeter of the pallet or erect a concrete collar - this will be the parapet. It must have space for installing a siphon and sewer outlet.

Then you need to level the pallet using a level, placing plates under the legs, cementing them with cement bosses. To hide the parapet and the space above it, you can use tiles or mosaic modules.

No. 3 - features of installation of steel products

Steel models are produced using stamping, so making a one-piece structure from a tray and legs is quite difficult.

Steel products are equipped with a stand. The plant that produces steel pallets also produces corresponding stands for them.

They have a rectangular or square shape and represent a failed welded structure made of profiles containing threaded bushings. Threaded feet are screwed into them, with which you can adjust (level) the pallet.

Steel trays are often included with factory shower enclosures. It is also a reliable option for replacing a worn out acrylic tray.

If the tray is installed as an independent product, then a cement backing or pedestal is mounted on the bathroom floor. Their height must be sufficient for the location of the siphon and pipe connection.

A cement pedestal, which is an ordinary leveled screed, allows you to make the installation of a steel or stone pallet as reliable as possible

The contact points between the pallet and the wall can also be glued and sealed, as when installing an acrylic product. The construction of the pedestal will be discussed in the next paragraph.

Details about the assembly and installation of steel models are written in.

No. 4 - installation of ceramic and marble models

Ceramic and marble sanitary ware are trending today. Shower trays are no exception. Such products are durable and massive, so they do not require the use of legs or reinforcing elements.

The installation method is selected depending on the design of the pallet.

There are two options:

  1. Niche design. Many ceramic models have a niche in the tray cavity for installing a siphon and draining the sewer system. Such a tray simply needs to be connected to the sewer and installed directly on the bathroom floor without any additional steps. All that remains is to attach the walls of the shower stall.
  2. Monolithic option. In this case, in order to connect the drain hole to the siphon, you will need to build a pedestal. Inside it there will be space for connecting to the sewer.

The construction of the pedestal occurs as follows. We apply a layer of waterproofing to the area where the pedestal will be built.

To do this, you can use liquid rubber, roofing felt, polyurea or other composition. You must wait for complete polymerization if you used a liquid product.

Any modern option can be used as waterproofing liquid formulations, which, after application, polymerize and create a waterproof layer

Inside the contour of the pallet we make brickwork with a height that would be enough for the normal location of the siphon. It is necessary to provide a cavity for the drainage system.

We connect the drain hole, the reverse end of which is connected to the outlet pipe. Apply a layer of cement mortar on top of the masonry.

DIY pallet construction

The process begins with preparing the future space for the shower stall.

Step 1. To begin with, the installation area is waterproofed, as in the previous paragraph. This will help protect the walls and floors from mold, mildew and dampness.

The process of making a pallet yourself includes the following steps:

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The space between the pallet and the floor can be closed using mosaic or tile cladding. Mosaic fragments are flexible and allow you to quickly and efficiently line the sides or the entire pallet if you build it yourself

When forming seams, use crosses. After facing, you need to grout the seams using waterproof grout and a rubber spatula. Then the remaining grout is removed and everything is wiped with a piece of cloth. After everything has dried, you need to wash the tiles.

Strengthening a steel or acrylic product

These solutions, especially acrylic ones, do not have a strong enough structure. Measures to increase strength come down to installing supporting elements, which can be bricks.

It is important that the pallet presses on all supports with equal force, otherwise one of them may simply push through the bottom

In this case, all supports in places of contact with the bottom must follow its shape. For this you can also use gaskets made of paronite or rubber.

. If you follow the instructions, you will get a first-class installation of a monolithic pallet with the highest possible reliability.

Do you have anything to add or have any questions regarding installation? shower tray? Share your opinion and leave comments on the publication. The contact form is located in the lower block.

Shower stall arranged with my own hands, will not only make your stay more comfortable, but will also save you money. A homemade box will save you from the costs of hiring third-party and not always conscientious workers. The moral satisfaction received from the results of one’s work is also important. Isn't it true?

We will tell you how to build a shower cabin in a private house with your own hands, and we will help you choose the optimal plumbing fixture. We’ll show you how to develop a project and bring the idea of ​​building a hygienic homemade product to life.

The article we presented describes the process of constructing and arranging a shower step by step. The technology for installing the cabin and connecting it to the sewer largely depends on the selected modification of the pallet.

Before proceeding directly to the description of the assembly process, we will briefly consider the main types of shower stalls available for sale and the criteria for their selection.

Variety of models: which is better to choose

A shower corner is a simple design made from a tray and curtains. Instead of walls, which are typical for a full-fledged shower stall, the walls of the room are used. The ceiling shower corner No. Its main advantages are low cost and compactness.

Shower corner is one of the simplest, most convenient and cheapest models of shower stalls, takes up minimal space and is suitable for self-installation

More sophisticated models have a roof and walls. Expensive multifunctional units have rich technical equipment: Turkish bath or Charcot shower, flavored steam mode, different types hydromassage, additional functions, various lights.

An expensive model of a shower stall with a hydromassage function, lighting and a deep tray. Requires not only sufficient space for installation, but also the necessary pressure in the water supply

Such booths are controlled by a complex electronic system. Before purchasing an expensive cabin equipped with a hydromassage function, you must first find out the level of water pressure in the pipes.

Combined shower cabins are a kind of compromise for those who like to take a bath with hydromassage and have a full-fledged shower cabin at home. Combined models distinguishes the original and stylish design– on the market they are often positioned as home SPA centers.

It is the pallet of the product that places increased demands on. A high-quality pallet must withstand heavy loads, and at the maximum permissible weight of the user, it must not crack, bend or deform.

Shower trays are made from different materials.

The most popular models:

  • earthenware;
  • from artificial stone;
  • enameled;
  • acrylic.

Faience. Everyone knows the material used in the manufacture of toilets. The earthenware tray is completely hygienic, easy to clean and can withstand a lot of weight.

The disadvantage of earthenware is the strong “causticity” of the material: the surface of the tray can be damaged even from falling, for example, a glass cup

Fake diamond- reliable and durable material, beautiful and hygienic, but expensive.

Enameled pallets for shower stalls are cheap and durable. The only drawback that should be noted is the fragility of the enamel. However, the enamel coating can be easily restored or replaced with acrylic. An additional disadvantage is the roar of falling water on metal surface pallet

Acrylic pallets are the most popular. Acrylic surface does not absorb dirt at all, warms up instantly, and does not darken over time.

Scratches on acrylic are completely invisible - this is an important point, since trays are often scratched when a shower cabin is assembled with your own hands, especially for the first time

The disadvantage of acrylic pallets is the inconvenience of installation, since the installation of a special frame is required. As such, an aluminum structure with adjusting screws is used, with which you can select the desired height of the tray.

Comparative review different types shower trays are presented in .

What types of curtains are there?

The second most important element is the cabin curtains, which can be hinged or sliding. Hinged doors require more space. They are single-leaf and double-leaf.

As for sliding curtains, they have from two to six flaps, which are held in place by a rubber magnetic tape. The curtains move on rollers hidden inside the shower frame. High-quality curtains should open and close almost silently.

Corner shower stall with sliding doors. In addition to models with transparent plastic (glass), there are options with frosted curtains

Shower curtains are made of polystyrene or high-quality tempered glass. Products made from polystyrene are quite cheap and light in weight, but they quickly lose their transparency and stains remain on them.

Glass curtains are expensive, high-quality products.

Hinged doors made of tempered frosted glass. In their production, specially processed safety glass is used, which is stronger than even automobile glass.

Water and dirt are very easily washed off from the surface of the glass - the material does not absorb anything and does not fade over the years. You can also buy a booth with curtains made of classic transparent, tinted, colored and rough glass.

Shower project development

Despite the apparent technical complexity, independent construction of a shower stall is, in fact, a completely feasible procedure for the average person, especially for a hard-working owner.

Just as the construction of any capital structure begins with the development of a project, so before starting work on equipping a shower in a private house with your own hands, you need to think about it.

It is advisable to outline on paper the main plans and diagrams, for example:

  • plan for placing a shower stall in a designated room;
  • connection diagrams to power supply, water supply and sewerage networks;
  • equipment order shower room ventilation system.

The preparation of the room for the shower and the installation of the cabin itself is carried out in several stages.

Preparing for quality assembly

A complete set of components is required. Before purchasing, you should carefully check the availability of all parts and their quality. If defects, damage or size discrepancies are detected, you must request a replacement part or refuse to purchase the selected model.

Also, to assemble and install the shower cabin with your own hands, you will need a prepared place.

Set of tools:

  • a drill, or better yet a battery-powered screwdriver;
  • metal drills (6 and 3 mm), bits for self-tapping screws;
  • building level (for adjusting the pallet relative to the floor);
  • figured and flat screwdrivers;
  • an adjustable wrench or a set of wrenches of the required size;
  • fum tape or tow;
  • sealant for sealing joints.

If the kit does not include hoses for connecting hot and cold water, you should also worry about them in advance.

Installation of the booth: work order

On preparatory stage work, a work site is selected where, in fact, the cabin will be assembled. It should be noted that many models have big size, therefore it is recommended to assemble individual units in another room adjacent to the bathroom.

Preparing the site for installing a shower cabin. Important requirements: connected communications (water supply and sewerage pipes), level base, waterproofing

All tools must be located so that they can be easily reached during work. You can assemble the booth yourself, but it is still strongly recommended that you do it together, since at certain stages of assembly the precise alignment of some parts is required.

The walls and floor adjacent to the booth must be smooth, without differences. You should start with . For pallets made of acrylic, the joint is treated with a transparent sealant.


First of all, it is necessary to install a drain for dirty water. In another way it is called “ladder”. In plumbing stores there are a variety of models that differ in shape and size.

The next stage is the installation of a steel profile structure on the bottom. The studs for the legs will be installed on this frame a little later.

This is what the frame for a corner shower stall looks like. Bricks are often used as supports. concrete structures made from cement mortar with your own hands

Acrylic tray with screwed-in studs and one finished central leg. The studs are positioned so that the weight of the structure is evenly distributed over the entire area

The short part of the frame has a special rigidly welded nut, which is needed for mounting the central leg. After the leg is screwed in, a nut is installed, followed by a lock washer, then another nut.

We install all the other legs on studs, after which the pallet can be moved to the installation site and leveled using a level. For deep bathtub trays, a more or less flat horizontal line will be sufficient, but small trays must be positioned strictly according to the instructions, adhering to the specified tilt angles.

Metal technology requires a special approach and the creation of a reliable foundation.

Arrangement of a cabin with a homemade pallet

If we do not take into account all the nuances of constructing home-made pallets, depending on the chosen cabin design option, then using the example of a pallet made of concrete or brick, as the most popular materials, we will consider step-by-step instructions.

Stage #1 – preparatory work

The very first step is preparation. It will look like this:

  1. Produce thorough cleaning shower floor and adjacent wall sections.
  2. Waterproof the base of the pallet.
  3. Arrange a primary cement screed, if it was not there.
  4. Prime and treat the base of the future cabin highly adhesive waterproofing composition, for example, bitumen mastic.
  5. Install the shower drain in the chosen location, strictly according to the level, and, in accordance with the instructions, connect it to the sewer.
  6. Install the formwork.
  7. Fill the inside of the shower tray and the sides with concrete or brick.

After everything is done preparatory work, calculations have been made, all necessary components have been selected and purchased, you can begin the main work on its construction.


It is important to initially correctly plan the placement of the shower, taking into account the exit sewer pipe. It is desirable that the path of wastewater to it be the shortest without sharp turns

Stage #2 – water supply

At correct selection all materials and availability the necessary tool, connecting the shower cabin to the water supply and sewerage networks will not be difficult. As a rule, in a private house, hot water is supplied to the shower from a gas or electric boiler. For this, tees or fittings with a threaded connection are used.

Main nuances of water supply:

  1. The distance between hot and cold water pipes, to eliminate their temperature influence on each other, should be at least 10-15 cm.
  2. The diameter of the pipes is selected depending on the water pressure, the optimal is 27-30 mm.

Flexible hoses are used to supply water directly to the shower panel or faucet. All connections must be made using sealing gaskets and FUM tape.


Water shut-off valves are installed on water supply pipes using 8-10 turns of FUM tape wound onto the thread, twisting it only clockwise

Step-by-step instructions for connecting to water supply:

  • shut off the water supply to the main pipelines;
  • insert the sealing gaskets into the nuts of the flexible connection on the side connecting to the hot and cold water pipes;
  • Connect the hoses to the pipelines without much effort.

Shut-off valves must be installed on all connections to plumbing fixtures.

Stage #3 – ensuring waterproofing

A very important point in the construction of a pallet is primary waterproofing. It is carried out before installing the screed, by covering with a special film or roofing felt the joints between the floor and the walls, and placing waterproofing material on them.


When purchasing a waterproofing compound, you need to pay attention to its area of ​​application. It must be marked as being used for showers

To plan further work, it is necessary to take into account that the complete drying of the concrete layer from which the base of the pallet is constructed, especially if this layer is thick enough, takes at least a week.

After the cement has dried before starting facing works final waterproofing is carried out. The surfaces and joints of the pallet are coated with water-repellent mastic, and special tape– waterproofing.


The finished structure of the future pallet must be carefully isolated from the possible influence of water. For this purpose they are used various materials, for example, water-repellent mastic. It is applied, trying not to miss a single area.

Stage #4 – construction of the pallet

As an alternative classic version cabins with a ready-made pallet, you can build a shower entirely with your own hands, starting with the construction of its base.

For this purpose, you can use brickwork, concrete blocks or cement screed. Water drainage in such trays is carried out using shower drains, the installation features of which will be discussed below.

Cement-lime compositions are not suitable for use. Concrete is prepared from a mixture of cement and pure sand, or ready-made mixtures are used, but always marked as waterproof.


The owner of a private house does not always choose the option with a brick frame for the tray of a homemade shower stall. Often it is replaced by a completely concrete screed. This option for constructing a homemade shower stall will ultimately turn out no worse than a cabin with a tray

When installing a pallet, a drain is constructed entirely from concrete, and then, with the help of formwork, the self-leveling floor is raised to the level of the ladder.

Not only must the slope be maintained to the ladder, but also a margin must be provided for the thickness of the facing tiles. The ladder grate should be a few millimeters below the floor.

Stage #5 – frame construction and finishing

The most common and optimal choice places for constructing a shower stall - in the corner of the room. With this placement, not only space is saved, but there is also no need to install two walls that replace the walls of the room itself.


The structure of the homemade pallet in the corner of the room is completely assembled. It is dry and ready for tiling work. Which are easy to do with your own hands by choosing the most suitable material

The structure of the pallet and the walls are lined. The choice of finishing method for a shower stall should be approached with special responsibility, since this is a room with a high degree of humidity and is subject to constant exposure to water and steam.

Features of tile finishing

As a rule, ceramic tiles are used for cladding walls and other elements of the shower box, which harmoniously fit into the overall design shower stall and the room itself.

When choosing an option, it is necessary to take into account the fragility of this material under strong mechanical stress. If it is necessary to fasten shelves and other objects to the walls of the bathroom using dowels, holes in the tiles or at their joints should be drilled very carefully.

At the same time, tiles have many undeniable advantages over other materials and are the leader in use in rooms of this type.

The advantages of tiles include:

  • tightness;
  • significant service life, which with the correct installation technology is 20 - 25 years;
  • ease of care;
  • relatively affordable price;
  • temperature resistance;
  • the possibility of covering not only the walls, but also the tray, sides and floor in the shower room.

We should not forget that wet tiles quite slippery, therefore, in order to avoid injury, it is advisable to use a rubber mat on the floor in the shower stall, which can be easily selected both in size and color.

A comb spatula is used to apply tile adhesive. It is recommended to start laying tiles from the floor. Depending on the pattern of the tiles laid on the floor, the walls are covered. It is necessary to start laying tiles on the walls from the central corner, towards the edges.

Since the size of the shower stall is not too large, you can pre-plan the option of laying tiles on the surface of the floor or wall and make markings. The purpose of marking is to ensure that at the corners you do not have to cut tiles, part of which will be less than half of the whole plate.


If possible, it is better to cladding the cabin using mosaics. This type of tile has a rich color palette, decorates plumbing fixtures well and visually smooths out the slopes of the pallet

Panel cladding rules

Using plastic or siding is a more budget-friendly option for finishing the cabin walls. If you have the necessary skills in installing panels from these materials, high-quality tightness in the room will be achieved and maintained for a long time attractive appearance of the shower.


Plastic panels - inexpensive and practical solution. Moreover, this material is easy to install yourself. And the result will delight you for the next decade

To install the panels, a vertical or horizontal lathing is attached to the surface to be finished in increments of 50-60 cm. Plastic panels and siding can also be used to cover the ceiling. The material does not require much effort to maintain.

Availability of modern finishing materials does not push into the background the old proven method - painting the walls. This is the simplest and least expensive, both time- and financially, option for finishing showers.

The use of latex paint does not at all imply that the waterproofing qualities and aesthetics of the room will be sacrificed to the detriment of the price advantage.


Paint does not mean a boring and monochromatic interior in the bathroom. If you wish, you can diversify the design with your own hands using prepared stencils. To do this, you don’t need to have experience in painting, but the result will please you

The main guarantee that there is no need for a quick re-repair of the shower room after painting it is thorough preparation of the surface.

In addition to the above materials used for finishing showers, there are a number of others that are relatively expensive and technically difficult to work with. For example, marble, granite or decorative rock. The choice remains with the owner of the house.

Stage #6 - installation of cabin fencing

The cabin enclosure is usually installed after connecting the pan to the sewer.

The design of a homemade shower cabin can have several options:

  • corner square or rectangular;
  • in the form of edges;
  • with a semicircular connection of 2 walls.

The methods that are used when installing cabin walls with a ready-made pallet and a pallet built with your own hands are almost the same.

Regardless of the chosen type of cabin, the doors are installed on it as hinged or sliding type.

The front part of the cabin can be equipped with additional side walls, usually made of the same material as the doors. These walls are mounted using a vertical profile. Special seals are attached to the sashes, which are recommended to be treated with silicone.

Installation of swing doors

The process of hanging hinged doors in a DIY shower stall is not very difficult. For this purpose, commercially available furniture hinges are used. Sealing elements are installed at the joints.

The doors are adjusted using eccentrics on the rollers. Glass sliding door can be equipped with a magnetic gasket for end-to-end closure, similar to refrigerator doors

Stage #7 - connecting a homemade pallet

At the first stage of constructing a homemade pallet, a drain system is installed, which uses not the usual hydroboxes, but. There are two types of drains: slotted and square grating.


The square drain must be installed in the center of the shower stall, sloping towards the drain grate in the form of an envelope, otherwise the water will stagnate

When selecting a drain, in order to eliminate the effect of a “pool with dirty water”, it is necessary to compare the indicator of its throughput with the performance of shower heads. The throughput of the ladder is considered good within the range of 30 - 48 l/min.

The location for installing the slotted ladder is chosen near the cabin wall. Bandwidth of a similar design will be higher. To a ladder of any type it is necessary to create a slope according to the norm, at least 3 mm/m.p. All pipes draining water are installed in the floor.


When installing and connecting the drain, you must adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations set out in the user manual. Following which, you can do all the work on connecting to the drain system yourself

Another method of drainage for a homemade pallet is through drainage channel, which can be positioned across the entire width of the shower stall, which will ensure uniform discharge of water into the sewer. Installation and connection of drains and drainage systems to the sewerage system is carried out using the equipment included in their kit.

He will introduce you to the technology of constructing a shower stall without a tray, which provides step-by-step instructions. installation instructions.

If all the recommendations and instructions are followed, then a self-made shower cabin will not bring you the slightest bit of disappointment. She will not only arrange life and create additional comfort, but will also harmoniously fit into the interior of any home, giving a modern and aesthetic appearance to the home.

In modern interiors, a shower stall with a large tray is often replaced with structures with thin transparent or matte walls installed on the floor. Installing a shower cabin without a tray may seem simple. But this is only at first glance.

In practice, installing a compact structure requires basic skills and strict adherence to installation rules, do you agree with this?

Do you want to install a shower stall yourself, but don’t understand what materials and components are needed for this? Let's figure out all the nuances of this process together - our article provides detailed instructions on how to build a shower without a tray.

Each stage of work was examined in detail, and visual photographs were selected to illustrate the described points. And in addition to the article, we have added videos that clearly demonstrate the installation process of such plumbing fixtures.

Fashionable modern interiors They stand out due to their ergonomics, lightness and availability of free space. For this reason, designers have developed compact and stylish shower designs without a tray.

Thin, often transparent cabin barriers are mounted on the floor of the bathroom, where they are immediately installed, thanks to which the practical shower box plays the role of an integral element of the interior.

A shower box without a tray is used to organize a small bathroom and a spacious room. A variety of models allows you to implement creative design ideas in interior design.

Since the walls of the shower cabin are usually made of the thinnest transparent plastic, the design looks airy and light. An important advantage of a shower box without a tray is that its installation requires minimal space.

A shower without a tray will not only successfully cope with its intended purpose, but will also stylishly transform the interior of the bathroom

Manufacturers often use transparent or organic materials as shower partitions. frosted glass. After taking a shower glass surface no traces of water drops remain.

Features of the design of shower cabins without a tray

The main distinguishing characteristic of a shower box of this design is the absence of a special tray with characteristic side edges. The cabin of any model is equipped with a means of draining water from the shower head.

When you go looking for a shower box, you can choose from a huge range of models. Modern cabins are divided into several main types and differ in the material used to make the elements and in the configuration.

You may be interested in the information on choosing the best shower stall contained in.

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Priority wall material

When choosing the optimal design of a shower box, the owner of the room must first decide on the wall material.

Plastic partitions

Partitions can be made of durable, high-quality plastic, which looks impressive and weightless.

Stage #1 – preparation of the floor and communications

A guarantee of successful operation of a cabin without a pallet is the correct installation of the floor. To effectively drain water, the base of the floor should be sloped several degrees towards the drain.

A round or square shower drain can be installed in the center of the shower stall. In this case, the floor should have a slight slope on different sides from the corners of the perimeter to its center. If you have chosen an elongated ladder-tray design, then a slope of the floor towards the tray is created.

After installing the drain under the shower stall, you need to install the pipes. It should be noted that sewer pipes must also be located at a slope. Since the floor slope should be 1-2 degrees, it is necessary to ensure the same slope of the sewer pipes.


The floor in the shower is a complex plumbing structure that must be airtight and hide communications. To improve the outflow of water, it is necessary to slope the floor towards the drainage receiver

The concrete base should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, then treated with a special mastic with high waterproofing properties. It is applied to the floor and walls around the shower stall (25 cm from the floor). This will protect the concrete screed from moisture.

Stage #2 - installing a shower drain

Separately from the shower cabin, you must mount the shower tray and its supports, following the attached instructions. It is necessary to connect all structural elements - siphon, supporting parts, drain and tray pipes.

After assembly, you need to check the quality of installation of the liquid drainage system by pouring water into the drain. If everything is in order, you can install the shower tray on the subfloor.

Before starting work, you need to seal the ladder grating with construction tape. This will prevent various construction debris from entering the sewer system.

The shower drain structure is installed at the first stage separately from the cabin. To do this, all structural elements are connected and the product is checked for functionality.

After installing the shower drain on the subfloor, all exposed areas must be filled with foam or polystyrene blocks.

Their thickness should be from 5 cm, while taking into account the slope of the floor (you can test it using a building level) and the slope of the pipe through which the water drains.

The gaps and cracks on the floor of the structure are filled with a mixture of water, cement and sand. The base of the shower stall is carefully compacted, and the level must be constantly monitored.

After completing the work, you must wait at least 3-4 days until the base of the shower stall floor hardens completely.

Stage #3 – waterproofing the cabin base

The next stage includes additional waterproofing of the base of the shower box. It is permissible to use both coating and pasting materials in the work. Waterproofing is done in 5 – 8 layers.

You may also find information useful if your shower design does not include walls.

Powerful waterproofing layer it is advisable to cover not only the base of the booth, but also the adjacent walls to a height of 35 - 50 cm, and the floor to hygienic room in case of leakage

High-quality execution construction work will avoid flooding of neighbors on lower floors. At this stage, mastic is used, which acts as a sealant. It is applied to bottom part walls and on a base made of foam blocks.

A single continuous sheet of roofing felt or fiberglass is then laid over the subfloor to serve as waterproofing. During the installation process there should be no cuts or cracks, since damaged areas may cause leaks and damage to the integrity of the structure.

Waterproofing the walls and floor of a compact shower cubicle must be carried out particularly carefully before the application stage finishing

The edges of the sheet should be located on the wall surface at a height of 25 cm from the floor level. The material is folded at the corners, pressed against the wall and secured with glue.

Stage #4 - installation of concrete screed

The next stage of installing a shower without a tray is the device concrete screed on top of the hardened floor covering. In this case, the thickness of the concrete screed must be at least 4 centimeters.

This will ensure the strength and reliability of the structure. During screeding, you should control the degree of slope of the floor towards the drain.

It is recommended to think in advance about exactly how the ceramic tiles will be laid on the subfloor and to place the strips on the screed. Due to this, the concrete floor will be reliably protected from cracking due to temperature changes during the operation of the shower cabin.

The screed is poured into a pre-constructed formwork. The solution should be poured without interruption in one step; it is advisable to use a vibrator to remove air bubbles from the pouring body

Stage #5 – finishing and decoration

At the next stage, they move on to finishing the structure. The floor and walls of the shower box are laid out ceramic tiles or decorative mosaic.

During the finishing process, you must first tile the floor of the structure, and then the walls. Due to this, the vertical wall tiles will cover the horizontal ones below. After laying the tiles, the wall joint and all joints should be carefully treated with waterproofing film or silicone.

The concrete base is covered with tiles on top, which are laid at a certain angle to the drain. The seams between the tiles are covered with waterproofing film

The last stage is the final design. The boundaries of the shower box can be in the form of a reliable partition, which is built on the basis of cinder blocks, finished with ceramic tiles or mosaics. Most consumers install glass doors.

If the base of the shower stall is made in the shape of a circle, round-shaped doors are used. When constructing a rectangular or square base of the box, the doors of the structure are placed perpendicular to each other.

To install a structure without a pallet, guards must be installed. For this you can use brick partitions, cinder block fencing, plastic or glass doors.

The most popular material used for the manufacture of sashes is durable glass. When washing in the shower, no smudges or stains remain on it. The thickness of the glass sashes varies from 6 to 12 mm, and the material can be transparent, matte or a combination.

Shower enclosures are often made of glass. Convenient sliding design does not clutter the room and makes the space light and weightless

At the last stage, you need to install a shower head.

Prevention of installation errors

Modern shower boxes without a tray differ from other models in that the water drains directly through a drain installed on the floor of the structure. The main task when installing a shower without a tray is to correctly set the floor slope and properly waterproof the base.

If the technology is violated during the installation of the floor and shower drain, the consequences can be serious. There is a possibility of flooding of the neighbors, and if the “” system is installed in the bathroom, a short circuit is possible.

Therefore, laying the floor and other work on installing a shower cabin without a tray must be carried out in compliance with the technology and installation rules.

If carried out incorrectly, an unpleasant odor may appear, which usually comes from the sewer system. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a high-quality drain made by a popular manufacturer.

When assembling the structure, you must strictly follow the instructions supplied with the product.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Information from the videos will help you understand the design of shower cabins and better understand the installation process.

Installing a shower box according to Swedish standards - detailed step-by-step instructions:

Features and characteristics of showers without tray:

A well-installed and stylishly designed shower stall without a tray can be significantly superior to most serial factory products in its practicality and attractiveness.

Regarding the availability of various additional options – easy installation The shower panel is guaranteed to provide the necessary functions.

Have you noticed a discrepancy in the material presented? technical requirements? Please write to us about this in the comments.

Or did you make a cabin without a pallet with your own hands at home? Tell us about the difficulties you encountered during the installation process and please share your impressions of its operation.

It is better to entrust such a difficult job as installing a shower enclosure with a tray to specialists. The apparent simplicity of the process actually hides a lot of pitfalls. But if you are a jack of all trades and have already done plumbing work, and successfully, then you can try your hand at installing a shower enclosure.



What should you consider?

Let’s immediately make a reservation that arranging a shower corner without using a tray and with it requires absolutely different instruments, knowledge and approach to work. We will discuss only one option in order to thoroughly understand it, namely, how to install a shower enclosure with a tray.

There are a number of protozoa and, meanwhile, important rules for the success of this work:

    Regardless of the manufacturer and cost of the shower enclosure, all joints after assembling the enclosure must be treated with silicone sealant.

    To assemble the shower enclosure, use only a special sealant - moisture resistant. It does not grow mold, it adheres well to the glass and profile, and does not peel off. As a rule, such characteristics are reflected in the price, and you will not find this among cheap sealants. Experts praise sealants for aquariums. They adhere optimally to glass surfaces.

    It is better to buy a siphon and all connections for pipes initially good quality, since the tray for the shower enclosure is not high and repair work on the connections underneath is difficult.

    Pay great attention to defining the bottom and top of doors and glass walls. At first glance they are very similar. But it was precisely the error in installing the glass parts (the top and bottom were mixed up or inner part from the outside) is often the reason that the doors do not close tightly enough or make an unpleasant sound.

    Tempered or, as it is also called, tempered glass, which is used to make shower enclosures, curtains and doors, is quite durable. A blow from the palm or even a fist may not make one move. But there is a nuance. It contains points of internal stress of the material. There are not many of them. But a sudden hit of something sharp at this exact point is enough, and the glass will be covered with a million cracks. This type of glass, in particular, does not like impacts on the concrete floor. With such an impact, the glass sheet may not break immediately, but a microcrack invisible to the eye will form on it, which will sooner or later destroy the surface. Moreover, this may happen several days or even weeks after installation, unexpectedly and for no apparent reason. Therefore, you should be careful.


Let's put the shower corner together

However, it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times. Therefore, we invite you to go through the entire installation process step by step and learn how to assemble a shower enclosure with a low tray. Of course, in the design of shower enclosures for equipping a corner various shapes, size and different manufacturers, there are many nuances - you can’t take everything into account! However, there is general tips, which will be relevant for everyone.

As an example, we will take one of the most popular shower enclosures in the Aquanet range from the Alfa collection rectangular shape size 150x80 (cm). However, the sequence of work is similar for a shower corner with a length of 140 or 120 cm, the design of which includes one sliding door, which has free movement and is mounted on rollers.


Step 1. Prepare the siphon and drainage system for installation.


Step 2. Attach the legs to the pallet. Install a siphon on the pan and connect the pan drain system to the sewer system. Use the adjustable feet to level the tray.


Step 3. Treat the junction of the pallet with the wall with sealant or cover it with a plastic border to prevent water from getting under the pallet.


IMPORTANT! During the process of assembling the corner, before installing the shower enclosures on the installed tray, pause in work and check the drain connection for leaks. To do this, you just need to pour a little water into the pan and see after draining whether the joints remain dry and whether there is a puddle under the pan. It is better to identify and solve this problem right away, rather than after the entire shower enclosure is completely assembled.

Step 4. Check that you have all the mounting hardware necessary to assemble the shower enclosure.


Step 5. Take the fixed glass (solid, without holes) and install plastic seals on three sides, which will be inserted into the profiles. Next, install the clamps, decorative plugs, and install the glass.


Step 6. Connect the post to the top bar. Please note that horizontal profiles have limit rollers, and vertical profiles have a groove for glass on one side, and a groove for the wall profile on the other side. Connect 1 horizontal and 1 vertical profile with the letter “L”, fasten them with two screws at the end.


Step 7 Connect the lower guides together.


Step 8 Connect the guides to the wall profile.


Step 9 Place the assembled framed glass railing on the pallet.


Step 10 Temporarily install the wall profile on the glass, press the structure against the wall, level it using a level and mark the installation location of the U-shaped vertical wall profile, and then attach them to the wall using self-tapping screws.


Step 11 Fill the places where the profiles come into contact with the wall with sealant, applying it to a dry and clean surface. It is advisable to degrease the sealing areas first.


Step 12 Next, proceed to assembling the sliding door. To do this, install eccentric-type guide rollers on the sliding door. Be sure to loosen the eccentrics on the rollers before installation. Please note that there are two single rollers installed on the bottom of the door. On the top of the door there are two double rollers.


IMPORTANT! When installing doors, it is important to engage the rollers on all guides and adjust them correctly. Mistakes are often made here, as a result of which the doors warp, gaps form, they move along the guides with force, or they jam. As a rule, in this case it is not a matter of low-quality components, but of poor assembly. When properly assembled and adjusted, the doors move smoothly and without jerking.

Step 13 Install the door stops, focusing on the pictures: the top edge on the right (in the left picture), the door stop in the lower left part (picture on the right).


Step 14 Now you can hang the door in the grooves.


Step 15 Secure the lower rollers onto the guides until they click.


Step 16 Adjust the door position with a screwdriver using a level.


Step 17 Insert the magnetic seal as well as the door seals.


Step 18 Attach a handle to the door.


IMPORTANT! Carry out a crash test by directing water jets at different parts of the assembled shower enclosure in turn to identify insufficient sealing in time, and not after the neighbors have been flooded. If you notice any leakage, reseal the questionable area.

Once the sealant has hardened, the shower enclosure can be used. This usually takes a day.

From the author: Hello, dear readers! In recent years, we have begun to pay more and more attention to the comfort of our home. Modern manufacturers have also caught this wave, so the market is flooded with various devices that are designed to make our lives more convenient and cozy. Global changes have especially affected bathrooms. Toilets with lighting and radios, Jacuzzis and the like - could we have thought about anything like that fifteen years ago?

Of course, a Jacuzzi is still not found in every home. But shower cabins are becoming more and more popular. They are convenient and do not take up much space (although the latter factor depends on the specific model). In addition, closed models have many interesting features. In them you can take a rain shower or enjoy aromatherapy, get a hydromassage treatment and benefit your body in other ways.

However, this type of booth is usually distinguished by its impressive dimensions. Therefore, in small spaces open models are more relevant. They take up very little space, and installing a shower enclosure yourself is quite simple. In today's article we will look at just this procedure.

What is the difference between a shower corner and a cubicle?

The modern market offers many varieties of shower stalls, which, in general, are divided into two types: open and closed. Last type so named because such a model is closed on all sides: it has walls, a floor, and a ceiling. Essentially, this is a small separate room for taking water procedures.

As mentioned above, such cabins can have a set of various interesting functions for massage, relaxation, and the like. In general, the equipment brings a considerable amount of comfort to the life of the owners, this is especially true for those who really love water treatments.

Of course, there were some downsides. Closed cabins have the following disadvantages:

  • a complex installation procedure, especially if those additional functions are available. In principle, you can buy equipment already assembled and not bother with connecting each element. But it often happens that such an assembled model simply does not fit through the bathroom door. As a rule, the matter still ends with calling a master who assembles the stall directly in the bathroom;
  • price. Plumbing in general is quite expensive, and when it comes not just to water supply, but also to comfort, it can be completely expensive. Moreover, the more functions, the more expensive the model, which is natural. On the other hand, they usually last a long time, and they bring a lot of pleasure;
  • dimensions. Large dimensions, which were mentioned in the first paragraph, can be a critical factor when it comes to a typical bathroom in an ordinary apartment building. What can we say about the notorious combined bathrooms in Khrushchev-era buildings, where it is generally difficult to turn around. Such a cabin simply won’t fit there.

If all listed disadvantages- especially the last one - have for you great importance, then this is where a shower corner comes to the rescue. It is easy to install, inexpensive, and most importantly, it takes much less space than closed models.

In fact, the basic equipment of such equipment consists of a tray and doors. The adjacent walls of the building itself act as side walls. Thus, you get a corner in which the shower equipment is placed, the tray is mounted, and the whole thing is closed with a door and, partially, panels.

This corner has no ceiling, so various “bells and whistles” like a tropical shower, of course, cannot be installed here. But the work is greatly simplified. And such equipment will in any case bring with it convenience and comfort, regardless of where it is located: be it in a city apartment or in a wooden house.

To make the installation procedure easy and problem-free, we suggest reading the instructions below for installing a conventional shower enclosure with a tray with your own hands. There is also a video attached to the article, by watching which you will further enrich your knowledge. So let's get started.

Preparation for installation

The first thing to do is prepare the room.

  1. Remove from it everything that can interfere with freedom of action. Of course, we are not talking about dismantling the toilet and other fixed structures. But it’s better to take out the washing machine, for example. Shower enclosure doors and panels are usually made of fiberglass. They are fragile, therefore, if you get caught on something or drop any element, you risk dooming yourself to re-purchase the broken part of the structure.
  2. Invite a friend to help. Despite all the ease, some installation steps are much easier to perform with two pairs of hands. This is both more reliable and safer.
  3. Decide on a specific installation location. It is advisable that the drain hole in the pan and in the floor be located one above the other. In this case, it will be possible to connect them directly, thereby ensuring the most reliable and high-quality connection. If this is not possible, then you will have to use an additional hose. In principle, this option also has a right to life. But remember that the presence of additional adapters always reduces the reliability of the connection.
  4. Level the floor where the installation will take place. The pallet needs to fit perfectly, so use a building level when working. The best option in such cases, self-leveling floors are available, with which you can level a certain area. However, if the unevenness is not too strong, and the floor is already covered with tiles, then there is no point in dismantling the tiles. You can compensate for height differences by adjusting the pallet legs.

Installation procedure

The process of installing a shower enclosure always begins with installing a tray. To do this, you will need a wrench and waterproof silicone-based sealant. And also, of course, the design elements themselves: a tray, a siphon included in the package and a drain hose.

In some models there is no siphon as such. In such cases, the hose itself takes over its function. As a rule, the kit then includes special devices, which when installed on the hose give it a curved shape. A siphon bend is necessary to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer pipe into the room. So don't ignore these devices.

So let's get started.

  1. Turn the pan upside down and find the drain hole on it. Connect a siphon to this place.
  2. Then fix the drain hose in the siphon. If you connected it directly to the drain hole in the pan, then install a bending device.
  3. Attach an elbow to the opposite end of the hose - this part is also usually included in the package.
  4. Install the elbow into the drain hole located in the floor. You need to insert it in such a way that it goes completely there.
  5. Now take a waterproof silicone sealant and sequentially treat all the places where the joining took place: the pan and the siphon, the siphon and the hose, the hose and the pipe, the pipe and the sewer hole. After application, allow the sealant to dry. This usually takes approximately two hours. Try not to touch the structural elements until the sealant has completely hardened, so as not to compromise the strength of the layer.
  6. After the silicone sealant has completely cured, turn the tray upside down and place it on Right place and adjust the legs to height. This is done using a wrench. Turning the leg clockwise will make it shorter, counterclockwise will make it longer. Do not forget to regularly check the levelness using a building level during the process.
  7. We are done with the connection, now we attach the pallet to the wall using fasteners and treat the joints with silicone sealant. We wait again for two hours.

After the sealant has dried, you can begin installing the door and side panels. Unpack all structural elements. Try to act carefully - we remind you that fiberglass can suddenly surprise you with its fragility.

Put the glass parts aside for now, let's work on the frame first. Assemble it from metal frames. After assembly, check the evenness of all ends, as well as the verticality of the corresponding elements. Only then fix it with screws. Try not to tighten them too much, otherwise the frame may become warped.

Now we place the assembled metal structure on a pallet and check how smoothly everything is installed and fits together. It is better to do this together, since the frame must be supported on both sides.

The side frames have special holes for fasteners. It is necessary to mark these places on the wall. Then remove the frame and set it aside for now.

Drill into the wall at the marked locations. If it is covered with tiles, then do this very carefully to avoid cracking the tiles. You will need two diamond-coated drill bits designed specifically for this type of finishing material.

First, make notches on the glaze of the tile, then drill through the entire thickness of the tile with a very thin drill, and then take the nozzle required diameter(corresponding to the dowels) and bring the holes to the desired depth and width. Secure the dowels in them.

Place the frame back on the pallet and secure it to the wall using screws. Before doing this, coat the side frames with waterproof silicone sealant, this is done on the side that will be adjacent to the wall surface. After tightening the screws, remove excess sealant with a damp cloth without waiting for it to dry.

Install the fasteners, seals and rollers included in the kit onto the frame. Next, mount the side panels, and then the door. Be sure to check the latter: open and close several times, paying attention to the ease of sliding.

Finally, secure door handle and treat all joints on the structure with sealant. Don't forget to remove any excess before it dries. After it hardens, the shower enclosure will be completely ready for use.

That's all, dear friends. As you can see, the installation procedure does not cause any difficulties. In addition, some people prefer not to bother at all and install only a tray around which they hang a regular shower curtain.

Of course, this option looks less modern and stylish, but it also has a right to life. But in this case, you will have to first take care of a high-quality floor, since the curtain protects it from water much worse than a fiberglass structure. The choice is yours. Good luck!