How to make a plastic ceiling correctly. How to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands - a step-by-step guide. What is PVC panel

There are many materials that can be used to decorate ceilings, but the most practical and easy-to-use option is PVC panels. And they become even more attractive for the reason that it is quite simple to install them yourself, so there is no need to involve a team of builders. Our article will tell you how to attach PVC panels to the ceiling and how to choose them correctly.

PVC panels - what is it?

PVC panels are a finishing material made from polyvinyl chloride, a plastic that does not burn well and has chemical resistance. Now let's consider PVC construction panels.

PVC panels for ceiling

They consist of two thin sheets of plastic connected to each other by many stiffening ribs. Along the length of the PVC panels, on one side there is a large mounting shelf, and on the other, a small mounting shelf. The first is used to attach the PVC sheet to the ceiling frame, and the second is used to connect the installed sheets to each other.

So why have PVC panels become so popular? Below is a list of the advantages of this finishing material.

Selection of PVC panels

So, you know what this material is, now you need to select PVC panels and purchase them. First you need to decide on the sizes. On this moment in hardware stores you can see plastic panels either in the form of lining or in the form of rectangular slabs with the dimensions given in the table below.

Table. Standard sizes PVC panels.

How can you tell if you have good material in front of you? How can you unknowingly avoid purchasing low-quality PVC panels that will crack during installation or lose their color after a couple of years of service?

When going to a hardware store, you should pay attention to the following points. For small rooms, the most suitable are PVC panels of the “lining” type. They should also be given preference if you want to have a ceiling made of plastic, stylized as wooden boards. A for larger premises it is better to take panels or sheets of polyvinyl chloride. As for the thickness, it is mostly the same for all types of PVC sheets and amounts to 10 millimeters.

The stiffening ribs of PVC panels should not be visible from the front side. Also count their number - the more ribs, the stronger and more durable the panel design.
The surface of the material must be perfectly smooth, without any defects, chips or damage.
The mounting and mounting shelves must be flexible enough and not break when trying to bend them.
Try pressing lightly on PVC panel. If a crack or dent appears on the surface, then you have a low-quality copy, which you should avoid purchasing.
Take some panels and try to put them together. Good material fits smoothly and without gaps.
Pay attention to the appearance of the PVC panels you are purchasing - copies from all packages must be monochromatic and have the same texture. In some situations, PVC sheets from different batches will have slight color differences.

What to look for when purchasing PVC panels: 1. The number of stiffeners: the fewer there are, the more unstable the product.
2. The edges of the plastic tiles must be intact and straight.
3. The surface of the PVC panel should be evenly painted, smooth and without unevenness.
4. The two panels must be properly connected at the joint groove.

In addition to the PVC sheets themselves, you will need to purchase an installation profile. It consists of two “shelves”, one of which is attached to the frame, and the other is connected to plastic panels. Both the starting and finishing PVC sheets are attached to the installation profile. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the thickness of the plastic and whether the profile has any bends or defects.

Don’t forget to also buy a ceiling plinth - it not only serves as a decorative element of the future ceiling, but also closes the gap between the wall and the ceiling made of PVC panels. Typically, such skirting boards are called fillets, are made of plastic and are attached with glue.

As for the appearance of the purchased PVC panels, you must determine it yourself, based on the design project for finishing the room and your own taste. You will be presented with many options for panels of the most different colors and textures. Here we can recommend using a color compatibility table so that the appearance of the ceiling matches well with the color of the walls and furniture.

Required Tools

Now you need to make a list of tools that will be needed to attach PVC panels to the ceiling. You don't need anything complicated or very expensive; everything listed below can be found at any hardware store.

Hammer– necessary for installing the frame.
Screwdriver. If you wish, you can attach plastic panels to a profile or beam using a hammer drill, but it is very heavy, and it is very inconvenient to use it for such tasks. Therefore, the presence of a screwdriver will significantly facilitate the work and increase the speed of installation of PVC panels. And if you attach them not with self-tapping screws, but with staples, then instead of a screwdriver, take a construction stapler.
To control the accuracy of marking and location plastic panels you will need square, level and painting thread.
Pencil or marker for drawing lines and marking PVC panels in the order they are laid.
Roulette for measurements.
Electric jigsaw or circular saw – for cutting frame profiles and plastic panels.
Step ladder. Of course, you can always make do with a table or stool, but this is unsafe and inconvenient.
Rubber mallet, which can be useful for adjusting PVC panels to each other during installation.

In addition to tools, you need to purchase material for the frame. This can be either a metal profile (grade UD-27 for the main one and CD-60 for the guide) or a wooden beam. Also, do not forget to purchase fasteners (screws, staples or glue), hammer drills, screwdriver attachments, dowels and hangers for the profile.

Preparation

It is worth noting that even before visiting a hardware store, you should start preparatory work. The first thing you need to do is create a plan. For this measure the length and width of the room and draw a diagram of the future frame.

Then calculate how many sheets and what sizes you will need to make a suspended ceiling.

Important At the planning stage, it will not be superfluous to mark the lines along which you will cut the profile of the frame and PVC panels. At the same time, you can make notes on them using a pencil and marker, indicating in what order they should be laid.

Remember that good and careful planning is the key to quality work and reliable insurance against various troubles and the need to do everything over again.

Second preparation point - deleting old ones finishing materials . If the ceiling was previously covered with a thick layer of plaster or paint, then all this must be removed, otherwise heavy pieces of old finishing can damage the frame or the panels themselves.

The last stage of preparatory work is marking the line of the future frame. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the height of all corners of the room. Find the one in which it is the smallest. You should measure 50 millimeters down from it and draw a strictly horizontal line (control it using paint thread and a level). The same line at exactly the same height should be drawn on the opposite wall. The frame will be installed on them in the future. suspended ceiling.

Frame installation

Along the lines drawn, holes are marked every 50-100 millimeters, drilled with a hammer drill. After this, dowels are inserted into them. Using holes drilled in the wall using self-tapping screws (for example, a 6x40 mm self-tapping screw), the main frame, made from the UD-27 profile, is attached with a lid to the wall. In this case, do not forget to use a level and ensure that the frame elements are positioned strictly horizontally.

Then, using hangers and the CD-60 profile, guide rails are created to which the PVC panels will be attached. The optimal distance between them is 500 millimeters. The metal profile CD-60 is installed with the cover facing the floor; the ends of the slats should be inserted into the profile of the main frame.

Advice! It is very difficult to correctly mount the frame and install PVC panels alone, so this work should be done together with a partner. It would also be useful to have the help of a person who will give and receive tools, cut and bring plastic panels.

Having finished installing the frame, check it several times for horizontalness and the absence of a difference in height - the future ceiling made of PVC panels should be perfectly flat, and this largely depends on how well the sheathing is installed.

An alternative to a metal profile can be a frame made of wooden beams. This design will cost less, but is susceptible to moisture. The technology for its installation is in many ways similar to that for a metal profile.

We draw two strictly horizontal lines on opposite walls.
We drill holes along them at intervals of 5-15 centimeters.
Insert dowels into the holes.
We fasten the beam of the main frame to the wall using self-tapping screws and the above-mentioned holes.
We mount guides made of wooden beams using hangers.
We attach the guides to the main frame using corners.
We check the entire structure using a level and tape measure.

It is worth noting that for wooden frame a more optimal fastener for plastic panels would be not self-tapping screws that are screwed in with a screwdriver, but staples that require a construction stapler. Also, metal fasteners can be replaced with “liquid nails” - construction glue, capable of firmly holding the plastic panel and frame together even under relatively heavy loads.

Important! If there is an additional load such as large chandelier or the second level of suspended ceilings, the frame must be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to install more guide rails, reducing the gap between them. This is mandatory not only for a wooden frame, but also for a metal profile structure.

Fastening PVC panels to the ceiling

To begin, mount the installation profile by attaching its large “shelf” to the guide rails using self-tapping screws. It can be installed both around the entire perimeter of the room and in the places where the starting and finishing PVC panels are attached.

Now you need to cut the PVC panels according to the previously developed plan and markings. Many experts advise making the length of the sheet slightly shorter than the width of the room, since polyvinyl chloride can expand even at low temperatures, which means that installation “back to back” can lead to future deformations of the suspended ceiling.

Advice! Also, you should not install PVC panels in a room with low temperatures, especially since under such conditions this material becomes brittle.

If you are planning to make built-in lighting for a suspended ceiling, it’s time to make cutouts for lamps in PVC sheets.

Once the material is completely prepared, you can begin attaching the first (or starting) panel. To do this, you and your assistant need to insert launch pad into the installation profile from the side of the mounting shelf, and then secure it with self-tapping screws on the slats. At the same time, make sure that they do not go too deep into the PVC, otherwise there will be a risk that the screws will damage the sheet.

Next, carefully “join” the next panel using the mounting shelf with the starting one, and secure it with the fasteners. Thus, the PVC panels are fastened to each other one by one. They should be connected to each other with great care to prevent damage. Also, no gaps or cracks should be left; PVC panels must fit tightly to each other. If necessary, you can make an “adjustment” using gentle blows with a rubber mallet.

Before installing the last PVC panel, measure the remaining uncovered ceiling space with a tape measure.– often the plastic panel does not fit there completely, so it needs to be cut. At the same time, make sure that the cut is as smooth as possible, and there should be no gaps between the finishing PVC panel and the installation profile.

The final stage - glue installation of ceiling plinths. After this, the suspended ceiling made of PVC panels can be considered complete. Then you can install lamps, decorate walls and remove construction waste.

Video - Making a ceiling from PVC panels

As you can see, attaching PVC panels to the ceiling is a fairly simple task that does not require much knowledge and experience in construction from you. Because for self-finishing rooms and, in particular, ceiling plastic panels are the best possible option.

One of the most practical ways to finish ceilings in rooms with high humidity, such as the bathroom and kitchen, is the installation of a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels. Plastic panels are affordable, look beautiful, are highly durable and waterproof, and are relatively easy to install. Largely thanks to these qualities, suspended ceilings made of plastic panels have gained well-deserved popularity.

We suggest you consider how you can mount a suspended ceiling from panels with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to provide free access to the ceiling surface, and, if possible, remove any material that does not adhere well to the ceiling. old finishing, prepare and install electrical wires for the installation of recessed lamps.

Necessary materials and tools for installation

Scroll necessary funds for mounting panels looks like this:

Actually, . They should be chosen taking into account both the aesthetic component and the dimensions of the room.
Thus, the length of the purchased panels should be such that a minimum amount of scrap remains during installation.
The sizes of plastic panels most often range from 6-8mm in thickness, 0.25-0.38m in width and 6m in length.
Consumables for creating a frame onto which suspended panel ceilings are subsequently attached. They can be either wooden beams or metal (aluminum) complete with hangers, as well as fastening materials - dowels, screws, etc.
Decorative elements - baguettes, finishing corners, flashings, friezes, etc.

Before making a suspended ceiling from plastic panels, you will need to stock up on tools such as a screwdriver, hammer drill, jigsaw or mounting (powerful stationery) knife, measuring tool, marker, sealant and/or glue.

Installation of suspended ceiling panels

Arrangement of the frame system

To mount a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you must first of all build a reliable supporting frame.

If beams are used as frame elements, the process will actually come down to simply fixing them to the main ceiling surface:

It will be necessary to position the beams perpendicular to the direction of future installation of the panels.
The installation step of the beams should be chosen equal to 0.4-0.6 m, depending on the mass of the panels and other load on the beams (electrical wiring systems, lighting, etc.).
Fix the beams on the surface of the ceiling base using a hammer drill and fasteners - dowels or anchor bolts.

If you choose a frame system for suspended panel ceilings aluminum profiles, then installation will require a little more effort:

Select the distance between the base and the future (usually 100-150 mm), mark the walls horizontally at the appropriate level along the perimeter of the room for installation of the guide profile.
Attach the guide profile to the walls according to the markings. To do this, pre-drill holes 6 mm in diameter in increments of 0.4 m in the profile strips, attach them to the location, make marks on the wall through the holes, then remove the profile and drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill.
After this, secure the profile to the walls using dowels and screws.

Advice!
To cut the profile, use metal scissors, and to connect profile strips– special connectors.

Next, make markings on the ceiling base in the form of lines, according to which the rack profile strips will be further mounted. Suspended panel ceilings will subsequently be attached to the rack profile. Take the distance between the lines to be 0.4-0.6 m.
Drill holes along each line in increments of 0.6-0.8 m and install hangers in them.
Next, insert the rack profile strips one by one into the guides, align them according to the markings and fix them in the hangers using metal screws.
Fastening should be done without allowing sagging, using a building level and/or a tapping cord.

Frame paneling

Now let's look at how you can attach panels for suspended ceilings to a manufactured frame:

The panels must be cut to size using a jigsaw or knife, while maintaining the perpendicularity of the cut relative to the central axis of the panel.

Attach the first plastic panel to the wall, placing its tenon against the wall. Fasten it using a powerful stapler or self-tapping screw into the wall of the panel groove closest to the main ceiling into each beam or strip of the frame profile.
Insert the tenon of the next panel into the groove of the previous one and attach it in a similar way. Thus, completely sheathe the surface.

Panel suspended ceilings are almost ready. All that remains is to install decorative elements in the corners between the ceiling and walls, covering the edges of the panels, and, if necessary, seal the joints with sealant if the presence of humid air is planned in the room. In addition, before installing the panels, you should make holes in them for spotlights, and then install and connect them.

Advice!
The electrical wiring of the lighting system, located in the inter-ceiling space, should be placed in special corrugated protective sleeves.

So, we figured out how to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands using two different frame systems. We hope that our detailed and illustrated instructions will allow you to achieve the desired result with a minimum amount of cost. To better understand the features of each stage installation process, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the thematic video presented on our portal.

Plastic panels (lining) are an indispensable material for quick and high-quality cladding ceiling. They are convenient to work in any room, and the result obtained is not inferior to elite types of finishing.

The bathroom and kitchen, loggia and balcony - this is where you can make a ceiling from plastic panels, although in the living room and bedroom such decoration also fits well into the interior.

What is so good about finishing the ceiling with plastic panels and under what conditions does it work without deformation and loss of color? The answer to this question should be sought in the properties of the PVC plastic from which this material is made.

Polyvinyl chloride is not only chemically inert, but also resistant to acids and alkalis.

High humidity for it, unlike drywall and wood, does not pose any threat. It does not absorb water and has a thermal expansion coefficient acceptable for molded products.

Therefore, covering the ceiling with PVC plastic panels does not warp or deteriorate in hot and humid rooms. It is not afraid of flooding, is easy to wash and clean with products that do not contain abrasives. The durability of this material is from 15 to 20 years. This time period fits optimally into the frequency of an average apartment renovation.

Minimum weight with sufficiently high rigidity and ease of fastening are three more important advantages of the polymer profile used for ceiling finishing. Availability of price parameters makes PVC panels great solution for budget repairs.

Before you start installing a ceiling from plastic lining, it will be useful to learn about their disadvantages:

Loss of room height. Installation of sheathing and panels will require 3 to 5 cm of free space;
Visible seams. Even with the so-called seamless lining, they can be seen at close range.

Material selection

A little excursion into design theory before purchasing will not hurt us. A universal color suitable for any interior decor is white. It visually “raises” the ceiling. In a cramped bathroom or on small kitchen this effect will be very useful.

A wide range of plastic tinting is an excellent opportunity to create a beautiful suspended ceiling using a contrasting frame and alternating multi-colored stripes.

When comparing matte and glossy panels, it is better to give priority to gloss. It creates the illusion of depth and makes the room more voluminous. But the texture patterns on such a ceiling do not look in the best possible way, as well as a primitive imitation of plastic imitating wood or stone.

Material Density

Ceiling panels are usually called less dense panels, but for high-quality finishing you need to choose the densest material. And not because it is more reliable, but because of lower light transmittance. It will penetrate through panels with thin walls sunlight and rays from artificial lamps, spoiling the appearance of the entire structure.

Seams

If you plan to install it on the ceiling spotlights and other elements engineering structures, it is better to choose panels with deep seams.

If you want to make a smooth ceiling, then you should purchase white glossy panels (seamless lining) of maximum width.

Purchase calculation

Before you start installing plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to accurately calculate the amount of material for assembly load-bearing frame and its cladding.

For dry rooms, a planed wooden lath with a cross-section of 3x4 cm can be used as a sheathing. For balconies, bathrooms and kitchens, where the humidity is constantly changing, a stable frame made of galvanized profile is required. The best option there will be standard plasterboard CD and UD.

The ceiling area is determined by multiplying the length of the room by its width. Based on this value, it is easy to calculate the required number of panels. The packaging always indicates the area of one panel. Dividing the area of the room by the area of the panel, we add 15% to the result obtained (waste when cutting plastic).

We purchase the total length of the UD profile, which will be used to frame the frame, based on the length of the perimeter of the room (rounding the number of planks up: 5.7 = 6 pieces).

The number of CD profiles for assembling the sheathing is calculated based on the pitch of its installation (0.5-0.6 meters). Self-tapping screws for fastening the profile must be purchased with a reserve, taking into account damage and loss (15-20 pieces per 1 m2 of cladding).

To fix the frame to the ceiling, you will also need plastic dowels with screws.

To frame the extreme sections of the cladding adjacent to the walls, you need a ceiling plinth or an L-shaped starting profile.

All installation manipulations with the metal profile of the sheathing are carried out using a grinder, a screwdriver and hammer drills. This tool must be available, as well as a building level, tape measure and pencil.

Assembling the ceiling lining

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels, it is necessary to accurately mark and correctly install the sheathing.

The list of operations is as follows:

We mark the location of the UD profile by level (the overlap is rarely even);
We drill holes in the walls to install profile fastenings (the distance between fastening points is no more than 1 meter);
We cut the UD profile to size and attach it around the perimeter of the room, with the exception of the side where the last plastic panel will be inserted (for ease of fitting).
Every 0.5 meters, a CD profile is inserted into the UD profile (you need to cut it 5 mm shorter than the distance between the walls!) and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Important note: before installing the profile, all ceiling communications (electrical wiring, alarm, Internet, telephone) must be laid.

Fastening panels

It is not difficult to attach PVC panels to the ceiling, but you should remember important nuances:

You need to cut the panels one at a time, precisely fitting them to the installation location (the width of the ceiling is never the same). The first panel is inserted into the starting L-profile. Each new panel is connected to the previously installed one, after which it is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The installation of the last panel should be done especially carefully. Having been cut to size, it is inserted into the adjacent groove and connected to the L-profile, fixed with plastic glue. When framed with a ceiling plinth, the technology for installing the finishing panel is simpler. It is simply attached with self-tapping screws to the UD profile, and the joint is covered with a plinth strip.

The easiest way to cut holes for installing spotlights is with a utility knife. Remember that more space is required to install lighting fixtures. Therefore, the distance from the ceiling to the outside of the panel should be at least 6-8 centimeters.

The quality of the plastic lining material is easy to check. To do this, just squeeze its end cut between your fingers. If the panel is heavily dented or cracked, it is better to refuse the purchase. High-quality bulk plastic, after compression, only slightly reduces its thickness and restores it after removing the load.

Until recently, we couldn’t even imagine what we could do with the ceiling other than whitewash it or cover it with water-based emulsion. If you wanted something “fun”, they covered it with wallpaper. With the advent of new building materials in our lives, completely new technologies for ceiling finishing began to emerge. Arsenal of similar design solutions includes the installation of suspended, suspended, mineral, glass, mirror, stained glass, plasterboard, and wood or plastic panel ceilings. Today we’ll talk about how to make a plastic ceiling.

Features of plastic ceilings

Plastic panels for such ceilings are made from polyvinyl chloride - a safe and harmless material. In our country, PVC panels are used everywhere for finishing ceilings and walls, as well as for making containers for food and products. So there is no need to doubt the environmental friendliness of the material.

It is important to remember that plastic panels for walls and ceilings are different, and it is not recommended to buy one to replace the other. Ceiling panels are much lighter, and this important detail, although their mechanical strength is much lower. If you use wall panels when installing the ceiling, there will be a large load on the frame, and this is not very safe. And using plastic ceiling panels when decorating walls, you can observe their deformation over time.

Plastic ceiling is a type of suspended ceiling. A plastic sheathing is mounted on the frame, which is attached with special hangers. For the frame you need wooden slats(you can use a metal profile). To make the ceiling itself, you can use simple, inexpensive materials, but it is better to spend money on higher quality plastic. Fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling is provided by plinths for plastic ceilings and a shaped profile.

There is one caveat when installing plastic ceilings. The appearance of the surface depends on the selected panels. When purchasing glossy panels, the joining seams will be inconspicuous on such a ceiling, they are practically invisible. Glossy ceiling It is a reflective surface, which looks quite original. If you plan to make a ceiling from matte, colored or patterned panels, then be prepared that the seams will be visible quite clearly.

Advantages of a plastic ceiling

If you are making renovations in your apartment and plan to make a ceiling made of plastic, your choice is quite far-reaching, because such a ceiling has many advantages. Firstly, if your neighbors flood you, plastic ceiling you won’t have to redo it again, and if the flooding is not serious, you won’t notice anything at all. And this is a big plus, because a ceiling covered with wallpaper or whitewashed would have to be whitewashed or glued a second time.

At the end of the work, you will receive a perfectly flat ceiling, which, if desired, can be washed with water or detergents. But even if you don’t bother with caring for your plastic ceiling, it will still not lose its beauty and originality. Even in the event of temperature changes, the ceiling will retain its flat surface. Ceilings covered with wallpaper fade over time, but plastic ones will retain their appearance long years.

With the help of such a ceiling, you can not only hide large irregularities or pipes, but also turn them into a part of the interior by installing beautiful modern lamps in that place. The ceiling can be made not only smooth, but also embossed, using wide panels with contours. Another advantage of a plastic suspended ceiling is its price. Of course, this is not the cheapest type of ceiling, but still, it will cost you much less than, for example, suspended ceiling. Besides, air gap, which forms between the ceiling and the plastic, creates good sound insulation.

Since PVC panels are surprisingly moisture resistant, it is logical to install them in the bathroom. When flooded, plastic panels are able to withstand the weight of water and not be afraid of the main enemy of moisture called mold. Especially if PVC panels are also installed on the walls and in the kitchen. For the same reason, such material is excellent for lining a home catering unit. Plastic panels in the kitchen are especially good, because such a ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents, and, as you know, with constant operation of a gas stove, all surfaces become dirty with soot.

Selecting plastic for installation

First you need to calculate how much material you need. It's quite simple if you know the area of the ceiling. If not, then it can be measured. A room with a complex configuration will need to be divided into parts - rectangular sections on the ceiling, then the results should be rounded up. If the room is rectangular, it will be easier to measure everything.

When purchasing, you just need to look at the packaging - the area of one plastic panel must be indicated there. Also take into account the number of panels in the package, count how many panels are needed to cover the entire area and add a little (taking into account trimming and the like).

You can decide on the type and color of plastic directly when purchasing. The design of the entire room depends on which panels you choose to install the plastic ceiling. White panels are the cheapest, while panels with patterns and textures will cost more. All panels must be made in the same color ( color scheme), and the drawing, if any, must be accurate and correct. If a panel is lighter than the rest, or, on the contrary, very dark, it is best to change it to one that fits perfectly into the overall tone of all the panels.

When you buy a material such as plastic, you need to be very careful and inspect each panel, because defective models are not desirable to use. When you have purchased plastic, when transporting it to your home, remember that it must not be damaged, because then during installation it will not fulfill its function and will not create perfectly even joints.

Selection of materials and tools

So, first you should get acquainted with the most common profiles for fastening plastic panels:

The most common starting profile. Such structures are used to cover the ends of the panels and are attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the entire room.
The H-profile is also called connecting. Based on the name, it is used to increase the length of panels.
The F-profile is designed to cover the ends of plastic panels on external corners when moving to another plane. That is, one wall is covered with PVC panels, but the one around the corner is not.
The plastic ceiling plinth is essentially the same starting profile, but slightly refined.
External and internal plastic corner serve to cover end panels at internal and external corners.
The universal plastic corner can be glued to any corner, but it does not look promising.

To decide on the number of profiles, you need a diagram drawn in advance. Draw a proportionally reduced ceiling on paper. It should be taken into account that the profiles should be 60 centimeters apart from each other. This way, it will be easier to figure out the number of beams, the footage of the plinth and profile. You will also need to buy hangers for the frame, lamps (if necessary) and fasteners.

Profiles that are attached around the perimeter are also required. The number of self-tapping screws for fastening panels and dowels, which are necessary for fixing the profiles, is calculated taking into account the number of required profiles plus the reserve. Replace profiles if desired wooden beam and use staples instead of screws. This way you can reduce the cost of the process and simplify the assembly of plastic panels.

To calculate the quantity required ceiling plinth, it is necessary to divide the ceiling perimeter by 3 (if the length of the segment is 3 meters). The tools you will need are: ruler, wallpaper knife, tape measure, construction level, hacksaw, drills, stepladder. As well as a drill, hammer drill, dowels, self-tapping screws, painting cord, hangers and ceiling profiles. When all the tools are prepared and the materials have been purchased, you can begin installing the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Basically, preparatory work when installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands is not necessary, but if desired, you can sand it with medium-grit sandpaper. Of course, if you are making such a ceiling in a room with increased humidity, for example, in a bathroom, it is better to treat concrete floor antifungal composition.

The first step is to decide on the level of the future ceiling (how many centimeters it will be lowered). If you do decide to install lamps, do not forget to leave room for them. Basically, lamps have a depth of five to ten centimeters.

If you install the lamps yourself, pay attention to the resistance of the wire you buy, but without certain knowledge in this matter, it is better to turn to a professional. It is better to secure the wires above the plastic in advance and bring them to the switch. The wiring must be insulated and hidden behind profiles. Next, we make markings on the wall around the perimeter.

Installation of the box on the ceiling

When determining the horizontal, it is important to remember that the slanting ceiling will be conspicuous, so you need to measure everything more than once, first measuring the height of all corners and choosing the lowest one. Then you should retreat 5 centimeters to the floor and mark the horizontal, using a water level. You should leave marks in the corners and on the ledges, as in the photo of plastic ceilings. Next, using a painting cord, beat off the lines that you previously determined.

On the marked strip, which shows how much lower the ceiling will be, you need to drill holes for the dowels. This must be done using a drill or hammer drill. You need to make holes straight through the profile. You need to insert dowels into these holes and attach the ceiling profile to the wall. The usual length of such profiles is three meters, but they can also be connected to each other if you suddenly have a very large room, inserting one into one. At the same time, do not forget to secure the profiles together with bugs.

Along the entire perimeter of the room there should be a profile attached to the wall, and on the ceiling - suspensions to which the ceiling profile will be attached. Hangers should be attached along a straight line. The necessary lines can be created using a painting cord, not forgetting the distance (about 60 centimeters from one another).

After this you need to tighten the fishing line. This must be done as shown in the video about plastic ceilings, across the entire room, from wall to wall. Next, this thread should be attached to the dowels that already hold the profile. It is important to remember that if you pull the fishing line incorrectly or not tightly enough, sagging cannot be avoided, but you need to get a perfectly flat horizontal line.

The profile should be fixed at the thread level. To do this, you need an assistant who will hold the profile so that it is as close as possible to the thread, but does not touch it. Having attached the profile to the hangers, you need to bend them. When the frame is built, you can begin covering the ceiling with plastic. It is recommended to fasten the plastic itself with self-tapping screws, not forgetting the points of contact with the profile. It is better to seal even the smallest seams with silicone, and remove excess material with a spatula so that the ceiling looks neat.

Plastic ceiling lining

When you have started working directly with plastic, pay attention to the room. If it is slightly skewed and uneven around the perimeter, then the first strip of plastic must be cut off very carefully in order to properly hide this defect. It is necessary that the following strips are attached to the profile perfectly, at right angles.

It is important to know before making a plastic ceiling that the installation of panels can be carried out not only across the room. You can install the panels lengthwise and diagonally, and thus the colors can be easily combined if you want to get the result original ceiling with an unusual pattern. If you choose thin plastic, then you can bend it, finishing the corners, this will help create unusual design. There is also a special corner plastic that hides the panel joints. Using plastic you can also make a multi-level ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling starts from one wall. They need to be cut exactly to the length of the surface using a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. When cutting the first panel, it needs to be made slightly shorter than the width of the room, approximately 3-5 millimeters. Sand the edges using sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Be careful not to wrinkle the panels. And most importantly, do not forget to remove the film from them before installation!

You need to work carefully because this material is quite fragile. Before covering, you need to treat plastic with care. If you have already caused damage to the purchased plastic, you can try to hide it with silicone, preferably white. This option will not work if you have chosen colored plastic, because silicone can be white and transparent.

Fasten the first panel tightly with self-tapping screws to the profiles, fasten all subsequent panels to the slats mounting profiles by type of constructor. The most difficult stage of the entire procedure is the installation of the last panel. You need to cut the length a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to starting profile at the opposite one. Insert the panel with one side all the way into the profiles, directly into the corner.

The second end will dangle freely, slide the panel out of the first corner and insert it. You will have a small gap between the penultimate and last panels, but they need to be joined somehow. Sometimes you can do this on your own, but more often than not you can’t. Then you can use masking tape. Glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it towards the previous one.

To install the lamp, mark the location on the panel with a pencil. Then you need to cut a hole using a utility knife. Insert the light into the hole and connect the wire to it. The wires need to be run to the ceiling. If you need to install several lamps, it is recommended to connect them in parallel to each other.

Upon completion of installation, the room will be greatly transformed. But it will still need to be covered with a frieze around the perimeter. This is done in order to hide the places where the plastic is attached. And if we take into account the moisture resistance and practicality of such a ceiling, we can say that this is enough advantageous choice for renovations in your home.

A plastered ceiling, no matter how beautiful it looks at first, requires repair over time - cracks appear, colors fade. Taking on a difficult, time-consuming task again? But it can work once and for many years - find out how!

Plastic on the ceiling is a pressing issue for many

A ceiling made of plastic panels is the simplest and a budget option to forget about the need for constant repairs. Anyone who has the desire can install it - many years of experience construction work not needed, you just have to listen to our recommendations and be careful in your work. Ceiling panels are very light and fragile, so careless handling of them leaves a mark, and it is impossible to repair the damage.

Until recently, few people imagined what could be done with the ceiling. Plastered, whitewashed or painted with water-based emulsion. Wallpapering the ceiling was considered chic. Modern solutions in the form of suspended, suspended, mineral, mirror, plasterboard and other ceilings have significantly expanded design possibilities. All finishing methods are interesting and good, but most of them can only be done by specialists.

The variety of finishing materials is amazing. Modern innovations are distinguished by their simplicity and reliability, but the prices of many are not affordable. We suggest paying attention to materials made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). They can be used to hem ceilings easily and profitably, without the help of specialists. The price-quality ratio is the best. At minimum costs for the materials you will receive an unusual European-quality renovated suspended ceiling.

The color solutions of plastic ceiling panels delight with their diversity. They will decorate any room in an apartment or country house. Low ceilings visually they will become taller, and if we talk about the kitchen, bathroom - this is generally a unique thing for such premises: cheap and beautiful. But in pursuit of originality, you should not choose shades that are provocative or even irritating to the eye. Calm pastel shades visually increase the volume of the room and give a feeling of comfort.

PVC panels for the ceiling - an overview of the main varieties

Building materials stores offer wide choose PVC panels. They have different lengths and width, white with gloss or matte, with patterns and designs, imitation wood or marble. You can choose to suit every taste, the main thing is not to confuse ceiling panels with wall panels. At first glance, they are no different. But there is a difference, it is in weight and stiffness. Wall ones are heavier and more rigid. Installation of light and soft ceiling panels is more convenient. The entire variety of PVC panels can be qualified according to several criteria:

features of decorative coating;
form of manufacture;
sizes.

There is no coating on matte white panels. The builders gave them the name "in pure form", they are the cheapest among all. After installation, they are appearance resemble painted in White color ceilings. They are used mainly in utility rooms.

Glossy white ceiling panels made with the application of a special varnish that adds shine. They have high reflective properties, which allows them to be used in any room. The monetary and decorative value of such products is higher compared to matte ones.

Panels colored or with a pattern are produced using different technologies decoration plastic surfaces. The most common method is to use thermal film, from which the design is transferred to the panel. For more complex designs - ornaments, imitation of expensive wood, marble with many shades - the most modern technologies, for example, high-resolution photo printing. Its use requires special equipment, and therefore panels decorated in this way are the most expensive.

PVC mirror panels stand somewhat apart. To obtain a mirror effect, a special film is glued to the surface. This finish is typical for many restaurants, exhibition and shopping centers, swimming pools and sports clubs. But such a panel ceiling is also appropriate in an apartment; it expands the space and adds sophistication. But condensation is clearly visible on it, especially wet areas, as well as contamination, which requires constant care.

PVC panels

Seam panels are designed to imitate a ceiling made of wooden lining. After installation, small grooves are visible between the panels. And between the individual stripes seamless panels the joints are almost invisible. Sometimes, if desired, they are sealed with a sealant of a suitable color to completely hide the seams. Seam panels highlight the imitation of the typesetting appearance of the surface; seamless panels, on the contrary, emphasize solidity.

Product sizes different manufacturers may be different. They range in length from 2.5 to 4 meters, width from 10 cm to half a meter, and thickness from 5 to 12 mm. Products with standard dimensions are most common, their dimensions are: length – 4 m, width – 25 cm, thickness – 9 mm.

Profiles - the most common types

To install the panels you will need profiles for the frame and trim. Frame profiles are available in metal and plastic. The metal profiles with fastenings used are the same as for drywall. They come in two types: UD measuring 25x25 mm and carrier CD 25x60 mm. They are attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels - directly or using hangers, if it is necessary to increase the distance between the base and the suspended ceiling.

Plastic frame profiles are suitable in rooms where humidity is high: bathroom, kitchen, utility room. They are attached to the ceiling with dowels, and the panels are attached to them with metal clamps, which are inserted into the grooves of the profile. Sometimes plastic profiles install on top metal profiles or wooden slats, perpendicular to their direction every 40–50 cm.

Instead of purchased profiles, you can use wooden blocks. They are cut into sizes 10–40×40–50 mm. Their thickness depends only on the desired distance from the rough ceiling to the plastic one. They are attached to a concrete ceiling with dowels, and to a wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws. Wooden slats should only be used in dry rooms, as wood is susceptible to rotting. But even in this case, they should be treated with an antiseptic.

To sheathe the ceiling with a profile and give it a beautiful and finished look , you will need special PVC profiles (moldings). The most common of them:

F – covers the ends, joints with openings of windows and doors;
H – connects panels along their length;
G - external, internal, universal - joins panels in the corners;
starting U-shaped - attached along all walls, covering the ends of the panels.

The suspended ceiling near the walls is finished with a special profile. It is made with a decorative border, hiding the ends. The profiles are painted in various colors or unpainted, they can be selected for any type of PVC.

Plastic ceiling - about the advantages and disadvantages

Growing demand PVC plastic for finishing ceilings in apartments and country houses explained by its advantages:

1. The plastic is moisture resistant and is not susceptible to damage by pests and microorganisms. It can be used in damp and unheated areas.
2. Easy installation does not require the involvement of specialists; you can install a plastic ceiling with your own hands. There is no need for special equipment, all tools are available.
3. The suspended structure hides wiring, pipes, and other utilities; built-in lamps can be mounted in it. A plastic ceiling can be mounted on an uneven subfloor; it will hide all its flaws.
4. The space between the base and the ceiling can be insulated and soundproofed. You can install acoustic ceilings for greater protection from extraneous noise.

Some disadvantages relate, first of all, to the characteristics of the material and its decorative effect. It is inflexible, which allows the structure to be arranged in only one plane: multi-level, round, with irregular shape not available for this material. Many PVC products look too economical and are suitable for hallways, kitchens and similar spaces. But at the same time, expensive mirrored PVC panels and colored products with thermal printing look beautiful in the living room and office.

If you use thin panels behind which recessed lights are installed, they can allow light to pass through. If you plan to install such lamps, you should not buy panels that are too thin. On ceilings, with the exception of seamless mirror ones, seams are always noticeable. After installing the panels, you will notice that the ceiling has become several centimeters lower.

What is needed - how to calculate how much material is needed

To calculate how much material will be needed, first measure the ceiling in length and width. When choosing suspended PVC panels, we try to purchase products whose length is a multiple of one of the dimensions of the ceiling in the room. For example, if the ceiling is 2.8 m, then you should buy six-meter plastic. It can be cut in half, the waste will be 0.4 m from each strip. It is with the aim of reducing waste that multiple strip lengths are chosen.

As for the number of plastic strips, this can be determined by knowing the area of the ceiling. It is equal to the length multiplied by the width. From the packaging on the panels we find out the area of one strip. We divide the ceiling area by the area of one strip, the resulting number is the indicator required quantity products. But you should remember about waste: to do this, add 15% to the resulting number, round up.

You want to know how many profiles you need. We install rigid UD profiles around the perimeter, and cross bars load-bearing structure– made of lightweight CD profile. If everything is clear with the rigid UD profile - its total length is total length all sides, then calculating the footage of the transverse profiles is a little more difficult. We draw the ceiling to scale on a piece of checkered paper and mark the transverse profiles every 50 cm in the drawing. We calculate how much is needed and multiply it by the length of one transverse profile. Divide the resulting number by 3 (the length of one frame profile).

We calculate how many dowels for the frame and screws on the panel are needed. We assume that they are attached at intervals of 50 cm. If used wooden blocks, instead of self-tapping screws, you can use 6 mm staples. We take a little more, it’s better to have a reserve than not to have enough in the midst of work. The process will go faster, the staples will cost less, but they will last much less than the self-tapping screws. It remains to find out the quantity. Divide the perimeter by 3 and round.

Selecting panels - design and quality

A few words about the choice of panels. We pay attention to two things: quality and design. When choosing texture and color, we focus on the general style of the room, but dark colors for the ceiling should be avoided. Traditional colors are pastel, blue, beige. Panels that use more than two colors should be avoided.

Having decided on the design, we move on to purchasing. It is important to buy quality products, pay attention to the following:

smooth edges - this will ensure a high-quality and fast connection;
uniform coloring, smooth color transitions;
We do not use panels that are too thin or soft.

You can check the quality of the plastic. We strongly squeeze the corner of the panel with our fingers and bend it several times. High quality material only slightly deformed, the bad one will break.

Preparing for installation - measuring and marking

The rough ceiling will be covered with suspended plastic, but even despite this, it should be prepared. Using a metal spatula, remove the plaster in all places where it peels off. We also remove, if any, the old finish, putty between the slabs, and peeling whitewash. In a word, we do everything so that nothing falls on the . We prime the entire surface of the ceiling.

We begin to determine the installation line for the UD rigid profile. Some circumstances should be taken into account:

if laid along the rough ceiling open wiring, the distance from it to the top point of the frame is left at least 2 cm;
For lamps hidden in the ceiling, we also leave space depending on their height;
We take into account the unevenness of the ceiling.

We determine the lowest point and place a mark on one of the walls. It is determined based on the lowest place on the ceiling. Then the mark is transferred to all walls, we place two on each wall at different ends. We use what is available. We draw lines along the walls, for which we use a simple device. Rub the string generously with colored chalk, stretch it between two marks on the wall, pull it back with your hand and quickly release it. The impact will leave a chalk line on the wall.

It happens that the floor and ceiling are not level, even in apartment buildings. If there is no way to correct it, we deviate somewhat from the strict level and draw a line so that the difference between the planes is not visually noticeable.

We create the basis - the rules and sequence for installing the profile

First, we screw the profile to the wall along the marking line; if it is metal, then UD. We cut pieces along the length of the walls, drill holes in them for dowels every 50 cm. We apply them to the walls, mark the fastening points and drill holes for dowels along them, fixing them on the wall. Distance from bottom edge to the base should be at least 2.5 cm.

Before drilling in the wall, be sure to make sure that there is no hidden wiring or junction boxes. If you hit them with a drill, the easiest trouble that can happen is a short circuit.

After installing them, we install the main ones - CD or wooden blocks. We cut pieces of the required length, taking into account that the panels will be attached perpendicular to the profile. We attach them directly to the ceiling or use suspensions if the distance to the ceiling exceeds 25 mm. The rigidity of the structure depends on the pitch between the fastenings; the smaller it is, the stronger the frame. If you plan to install a heavy ceiling lamp, in the place where it will be attached, we install an additional fastener.

Using self-tapping screws and press washers, we attach the starting profile to the guide. The distance between the attachment points is 50 cm, or less. The wide side of the starting profile should face up. We do this carefully so as not to accidentally damage the front side. To join the starting profiles in the corners, sometimes a miter box is used and the ends are cut at an angle of 45°. But there is a simpler and quick way: at the corner we thread them into each other, then sharp knife cut it, getting perfect place docking.

Installing panels - sequence of actions

We cut the first panel 5 mm shorter than the distance between opposite walls. For cutting we use a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. We take sandpaper or an abrasive mesh and clean the ends. We handle the panels carefully so as not to crush them. There is sometimes a film on the profile, which must be removed before installation. Then we proceed to install the strip in place.

Insert the plastic into the groove of the starting profile with the narrow end until it stops, slightly bend it down and insert it on the other side. Raise the strip until it touches the transverse profiles and carefully slide the long side into the groove. It may happen that it is stuck somewhere, the plastic does not fit. Carefully help with a narrow thin spatula. If you take your time and don't put in too much effort, everything will turn out right. The connection nodes are all standard; if a hitch occurs, it is only due to slight deformation of the plastic products.

We fasten the panel to each profile with special screws. We take extreme care so that the bat does not fall off. If this happens, it will probably damage the panel, and then nothing can fix it, you will have to remove it. For reliability, first drill a hole in the profile and then screw in a self-tapping screw. But this is time-consuming, because you will have to change the bit and drill. We insert the second and all subsequent panels in the same way.

Installing the last strip is the most difficult operation in installing panels. Apply different ways, but first measure the width of the remaining gap, draw a line on the panel and cut a plastic strip along it. It is better to take the width such that the strip does not rest against the depth of the guide profile, and after joining with the previous panel it only lies slightly in it. We cut to length using the same approach. Due to its smaller size, it is possible to insert the panel into the guide profiles; all that remains is to dock it with the previous one. We use masking tape, which we stick on the last panel, and tighten it.

Finishing – finalizing the beauty

After installing all the stripes, we begin finishing. When using a U-shaped profile, we install a separate plinth along the entire length. We fasten it liquid nails, applying glue only to one side of the baseboard, that is, we attach it only to the ceiling or wall. If it is collapsible, simply snap the mating part into place. We install adapter couplings in the corners or use putty that matches the color.

In the places that are marked in advance, we make holes for spotlights. To keep them neat, we use a crown. In terms of size, it is selected to be 4 mm smaller than the outer diameter of the lamp, but larger than the diameter of the inner part. The wiring should be installed during the installation process, and the lamps should be connected upon completion of all work. We attach the chandelier to a hook to a pre-installed additional profile.