Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: step-by-step instructions. Seamless ceiling tiles: how to glue correctly? Seamless plastic ceiling dimensions

NICHIHA FUGE - seamless facade panels - an innovative solution that is rapidly gaining popularity. It is preferred by buyers who highly value practicality and beauty.

Seams on the façade

Facing the facade with Japanese facade panels involves vertical connecting seams between the panels, which are necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the material at high and low temperatures. This aspect can be critical for a buyer who prefers to choose a finishing method without visible structural joints between the slabs. Clients who want to decorate the facade of a building are often interested in one question...

HOW TO GET RID OF SEAMS OR HIDE THEM?

There are several methods by which you can hide the seams on the facade:

USE DECORATIVE STRIPES

Such elements cover the seams and give the home a personal touch. This option is easy to implement in the half-timbered style, in which the building takes on the appearance of an Alpine chalet.

Decorative strips
Japanese cladding panels attached with a gap that can be covered with decor

COMBINE FACADE PANELS OF DIFFERENT COLORS

In this case, designers try to place the seams at the transition point between dark and light color. At the same time, the seams are not noticeable. In this case, sealing is usually done with silicone of a darker shade.

Spectacular façade design
Length of slab sections of the same color
does not exceed 3030 mm

APPLY VERTICAL STRIPES ON TEXTURE

NICHIHA EJB81 series house façade panels are perfect for implementing this method. This a good option, since the seams look harmonious and are part of the texture.

Designer series NICHIHA
The striped texture of the slabs visually hides the gaps between them

USE FIBER CEMENT PANELS FUGE!

NICHIHA FUGE - innovative facade cladding!

NICHIHA has proposed an effective way to solve the problem of visible seams by releasing new line panels. The name of the materials comes from the words Future Generation, which can be translated as “Future Generation”. The leading manufacturer has developed a technology characterized by high aesthetic and performance properties. The material is intended for cladding private houses and commercial buildings, it looks impressive and reliably protects the facade from negative climatic influences.

Seamless facade panels for home NICHIHA FUJE
installed without seams, without sealant, looking even more natural

Find out more about seamless facades NICHIHA panels FUGE you can read the presentation from the manufacturer:

ADVANTAGES

The fundamental difference is the presence of a connecting lock on all 4 sides. A hermetic seal, which protects against water getting under the cladding, is installed on the locking edges. Therefore, after assembly, the entire surface of the facade is sealed and does not require additional processing. The panels are connected horizontally and vertically tightly without gaps. That's why finished surface the façade looks natural without structural interference.

The panel length is 1820 mm, not 3030 mm. Thanks to this, thermal expansions do not exceed 1 mm per panel. Such minor changes do not disrupt the functioning of the façade or the overall aesthetics.

Of particular note is the improved nanohydrophilic protective covering, thanks to which color durability has become longer. The color saturation of the facing layer is maintained without visible changes for up to 20 years! In addition, the coating effectively protects the surface from dirt, which can be easily removed with water. Thanks to the self-cleaning function, façade maintenance is minimal.

Characteristics

Material: cement, reinforcing wood fiber, additives
Painting: protective primer 2 layers, acrylic dye 2-4 layers, nanohydrophilic coating 1 layer
Size: 16x455x1820 mm
Weight: 15.4-16.5 kg/panel
Specific gravity: 18.6-19.9 kg/m2
Fastening: NICHIHA JE555 clamp, at the junction of panels - JEJ555

Various materials are used to decorate the ceiling, including tiles. But such a coating has a noticeable drawback. There are visible seams on the surface that are difficult to disguise. There is an exit. This is a seamless ceiling tile that can be used to create surfaces with relief.

Foam ceiling

Properly installed seamless ceiling tiles allow you to create monolithic surface ceiling, on which the transitions between the covering elements are not visible. Places where elements connect to each other, of course, exist. But such transitions, with proper fastening of the material, are not noticeable.

Seamless ceiling tiles have the following characteristics:

the material is made from foamed polystyrene using hot stamping;
the panel has a sheet thickness from 3.5 to 15 mm;
the size of each panel is 50x50 cm;
the package usually contains 8 elements;
When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the edges of the panels, which can be wavy or smooth. During installation it is easy to lay the panels. The material is made in such a way that when laying, the pattern is laid out without problems, while the joints remain invisible;
elements are produced whose surface imitates wood, stucco or stone. You can choose panels of any shade to match with general style premises.

The quality of a seamless foam ceiling may vary, and this parameter depends on the country of manufacture.

Types of seamless tiles

There are the following types of panels without seams, which are distinguished by manufacturing technology:

pressed. These are panels with a pattern. The standard thickness of such elements is 5 mm. This is the most inexpensive type of seamless cladding;
panels produced using injection processing under the influence of elevated temperatures. Seamless sheets are thick (8 - 15 mm). The tiles have a variety of structures and patterns. Such panels can be used to cover kitchen ceilings due to the water resistance of the material;
extrusion technique. Panels are produced under high pressure. During the production process, polystyrene granules are mixed with special foaming agents. Next, the panels are covered with a film that imitates various materials. Such tiles are distinguished by their small thickness, which ranges from 3 to 5 mm. Even though the material is thin, it is quite durable.

Seamless tiles produced by extrusion are the most expensive compared to similar materials.

Difference between tiles in shape

Seamless ceiling tiles vary in shape, depending on the type of panel edges:

straight edges. These are patterned panels square shape. Each tile is exactly the same. When laying, the edges of the panels touch so precisely and firmly that a monolithic surface is obtained;
edges having a complex shape. During installation, thanks to the wavy edges of the panels, an interesting pattern of the ceiling covering is created.

Laminated tiles can be used for areas of high importance.

Pros and cons of seamless tiles

In addition to being seamless ceiling tiles create a surface without joints, the material has the following advantages:

both the individual panel and the entire ceiling covering are quite light. This is important because the ceilings do not experience increased load with such finishing. Due to its light weight, the material is easy to transport and install;
moisture resistance. The coating can be cleaned with a damp sponge and even cleaning agents;
good thermal insulation and noise insulation characteristics;
simple installation that does not require special skills;
there is no need to mount the frame before laying the panels without seams, due to the small thickness of the material;
the ability to choose any color shade and texture.

Important: when caring for the ceiling, you need to avoid cleaning products containing solvents.

Disadvantages of seamless coating:

the material is brittle. Therefore, you need to be especially careful during installation;
tiles do not allow air to pass through well. For apartments, vapor permeability is not so important, but for suburban buildings it is an important indicator. So, if the air exchange in a private house is disrupted, then moisture and various microorganisms will begin to accumulate above the ceiling;
At elevated temperatures, panels may move away from the base ceiling covering. A competent choice of adhesive composition will help to eliminate this phenomenon;
The material is non-flammable, but is capable of releasing toxic substances and smoke in the event of a fire in the room.

Toxic substances can be released from seamless tiles and when exposed to excessively high temperatures.

How to glue?

Let's figure out how to glue seamless tiles to the ceiling to get a uniform coating.

You need to prepare the tools:

building level;
roulette;
a stationery knife that can be used to cut elements. It is used if it is impossible to lay the panel along the edges of the ceiling surface;
a spatula will be needed to apply glue, which is sold in buckets and not in tubes;
a marker used to mark the ceiling surface;
ladder.

Preparatory activities

Preparing the ceiling involves removing the old cladding:

old wallpaper on the ceiling is first soaked in water, then scraped off with a spatula. After removing the wallpaper, the surface is sanded to get rid of adhesive traces;
old putty and plaster are also removed with a spatula;
whitewash is removed with a soap solution in several stages;
old paint is removed with a spatula. Special solvents can be used;
water-based paints can be washed off with soap and water.

After removing the old coating from the ceiling, unevenness and defects in the form of cracks, chips and cracks are eliminated.

The level measures the difference in height of the ceiling surface. If the difference is more than 5 mm, then the surface is leveled with putty. Cracks and crevices are also sealed with putty. Small defects can be left; they will not be noticeable under seamless tiles.

At the final stage of preparation, several layers of deep penetration primer are applied.

Glue selection

It depends on the right choice of glue high-quality installation seamless tiles. When choosing an adhesive composition, consider the following points:

glue with solvents is not suitable, because such a composition corrodes the tile material. It is necessary to choose special aqueous adhesive compositions;
the adhesive composition must have good adhesion to any base surface, concrete or putty;
The adhesive composition should not be too liquid, otherwise the tile will slip. If the adhesive consistency is still liquid, then after applying it to the tile you need to wait a little until the glue hardens;
choose glue that does not set immediately. There should be time after applying the adhesive to adjust the position of the tiles.

Special ones are produced adhesive compositions, used for gluing foam plastic.

Sticking

Before gluing a tiled seamless ceiling, you need to make a sketch on paper to understand how the panels will be located on the ceiling. Next, using a tape measure, pencil and square, the markings are transferred to the ceiling surface. For convenience, divide the ceiling surface into 4 parts.

Glue the panels from the intersection lines of the markings. First, the first four tiles are installed one at a time in the center of the room.

Install seamless tiles as follows:

Having opened the package with the material, you need to take out the material and put it indoors for several hours. So the tiles will be accepted room temperature, and are not deformed;
glue is applied to the panels from the back, on each edge and in the center;
before using glue, be sure to read the instructions;
After applying glue to the panel, press the tile with slight force to the surface. Be careful not to break the fragile material. You can press the panels with a sponge or soft cloth;
You need to wait a few minutes for the panel to stick. Immediately adjust the position of the tiles before the glue hardens;
the following tiles are installed in the same way. There should be no gaps between the panels;
excess adhesive must be removed immediately;
cut-out elements of seamless tiles are mounted along the edges of the ceiling surface;
The joints between the panels are treated with acrylic sealant. Not recommended for use silicone sealants because they turn yellow.

By following the step-by-step laying of tiles without seams, you can get a smooth, monolithic ceiling surface.

Seamless plastic

Seamless plastic on the ceiling can be compared to plastic lining. This material is often used to cover ceilings in bathrooms. The surface of the plastic can be glossy or matte. The panel thickness is 10 mm.

Installation of a ceiling made of seamless plastic can be done without preparatory work. Preliminary work will only be needed if the old coating had plaster and is crumbling. Then the surface of the ceiling is cleaned and treated with an antiseptic solution to remove mold.

Before installing seamless plastic, you need to decide ceiling lighting. By the time the covering is installed, it is necessary to carry out the wiring and decide on the location of the lamps. If the lighting fixtures are heavy, additional ceiling mounts will be required to support the structure.

Seamless plastic ceiling coverings are installed using the following methods:

harpoon. Seamless plastic is fixed using a baguette made of aluminum or plastic. A compression bar is attached to the canvas, which expands in the groove;
wedge. Wedge clamps are used to adjust the tension of the seamless fabric;
cam. The fabric is fixed using a baguette with a movable element into which the seamless fabric is tucked.

The cam method of fixing seamless plastic is considered the most convenient. But, such ceiling covering is recommended for small spaces. IN large rooms the moving part of the seamless plastic is pulled back. In this case, the canvas may not withstand the load.

When installing a seamless plastic ceiling, you need to consider the following points:

the plastic sheet should be 15 cm smaller than the required size;
a special heat gun is used to heat the material before installation;
the edges of the seamless fabric are fixed during continuous supply of warm air;
when the edges of the canvas are secured, the seamless coating is tucked into baguettes on the walls;
if there are protruding edges of the seamless fabric, they are removed sharp knife.

Protruding edges remain after using the technique without a harpoon.

Today, PVC ceiling panels for ceilings are the most in an accessible way finishing. They look great, are easy to install, simple and easy to maintain. With such hanging structures you can transform any room.

Modern PVC ceiling panels for the ceiling are a whole world, and in order not to “drown” in this ocean, let’s figure out what criteria such materials are classified according to

Types of PVC ceiling panels

Design features and physical properties of PVC ceiling panels

The basis of the finishing elements is polyvinyl chloride, and their appearance is represented by two plates connected to each other. Each part has a spike and stiffening ribs on the side that make finished design strong and solid, and also create air insulation inside it.

Manufacturers provide a guarantee that PVC ceiling panels will retain their appearance and original characteristics for 10 years, subject to temperature regime within the range from -50 to +50 degrees. For certain types of ceiling panels, the upper limit can reach +110 degrees.

PVC panels for ceilings - types

According to the type of connection, ceiling panels are divided into:

Suture.
Seamless.

PVC seam panels are characterized by the presence of a visible joint after installation between separate elements, externally resembling clapboard. On seamless ones, the joints after installation remain barely noticeable.

In turn, suture and seamless products are divided into glossy and matte.

PVC panels for ceilings - color solutions

The standard color of such PVC panels is white. This shade is perfect for any interior and will visually raise the ceiling. There are also a ton of other color variations that can be used individually or.

Depending on the painting method, the panels are divided into:

Plain- simple but practical products. Possess increased stability to mechanical stress and UV radiation.
Varnished– their surface is protected with a special strengthening varnish. The disadvantage is the appearance of scratches from the slightest mechanical impact.
WITH printed design - on outer side a pattern is applied. In this case, soft plastic is used, so such panels are cheaper than others, but are also less durable. Their alternative is thermally printed strips. In terms of strength, both options are the same, but thermal printing gives more variations in decor.
Laminated simulating natural materials. They must be protected from exposure to UV rays, otherwise the laminate will begin to peel off.

Density

Despite the light weight of plastic ceiling panels, when choosing a product, you should give preference to dense elements. This is due to the fact that thin-walled parts will let light through, revealing flaws in the rough ceiling or flaws in the base finish.

Features of PVC panels in comparison with different finishing materials

The service life of PVC panels is much higher than that of materials of natural origin. Supporting optimal humidity indoors and permissible temperature, it will be possible to extend this figure to 50 years. In this case, you will not need to waste time replacing or restoring individual parts.

PVC panels protect the ceiling surface well from harmful influences environment. They are easy to care for - you can carry out wet cleaning, which is unacceptable, for example, for plastered or whitewashed ceilings.

Main sizes of PVC ceiling panels

Standard PVC panels are presented for sale in factory packages of six pieces each, and have different sizes:

The lengths of PVC ceiling panels are 270 cm, 300 cm, 400 cm, 600 cm.
The width of PVC ceiling panels is 10 cm, 20 cm, 25 cm.
The thickness is 10 mm.

The longest ones can be used for finishing ceilings in very large rooms (garages, industrial blocks). For an apartment or house, it is better to buy short elements - 2.7 or 3 m.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages, the following points are of greatest interest:

Resistant to moisture and UV rays. They can be installed in rooms with high humidity, and without worrying about the color of the products changing due to the bright sun.
Low price.
Increased sound insulation.
Easy to install and maintain.
Wide color range.

Flaws:

Low environmental friendliness, so it is not recommended to decorate living rooms with plastic panels.
High flammability. When exposed to fire, plastic emits a lot of acrid smoke, which is hazardous to health.
Smell. A particularly strong amber persists for several days after the installation of such a ceiling.

Selection and acquisition

When buying ceiling slabs, give preference to special hardware stores. There you can buy all the fasteners for installing PVC panels, and professional consultants will tell you about the nuances of installing suspended ceilings.

Carefully inspect the surfaces of the slabs for cracks, chips, nicks and other damage.

A high-quality product - geometrically correct in shape, without stiffening ribs protruding from the surface, and does not crack when bent. There should be no traces left after pressing.

The basis of the choice is the layout of the room. If the room small sizes, use products of minimal length and width. For spacious rooms you need to purchase three-meter slats.

The best manufacturers of PVC panels for ceilings

When purchasing any product, we great importance We choose a reliable manufacturer. On modern construction market there are a lot of them. Let's focus on the best:

Venta is a leading company from Belgium. Venta produces PVC ceiling panels with various parameters and designs. Not long ago we launched the production of slats with digital printing applied to the surface.
Forte is an Italian manufacturer operating on the market since 1969. The production of products is based on the use of modern high-tech equipment. A wide selection of different shades allows customers to realize suitable design ceiling made of PVC panels in your apartment.
LLC "Planet Plastic" is a company from Moscow, operating since 2001. Production is carried out using foreign equipment and foreign raw materials. The company presents consumers with more than 150 different variations of finishing elements.
LLC "Ural-Plast" is a manufacturer from Magnitogorsk, whose quality products are also the result of the use of foreign equipment. In addition to standard PVC panels, this company produces products with original designs.
AnV-plast LLC- a company from Krasnodar. She started her activities in 2001 and achieved success in a short time. The company supports domestic producers, purchasing raw materials for production from them. Competitive advantage AnV-plast LLC is that the price of its products is much lower.

Cost and calculation of PVC panels for ceilings

For determining required quantity plastic panels for the ceiling, multiply the length and width of the room. Divide the resulting figure by the area of one PVC panel for the ceiling. You will get the number of planks per room. Add 10-15% to the value for possible damage to the material during transportation or installation.

If we talk about price, average cost for one panel is approximately 150 rubles. It depends on external characteristics products. Thus, a PVC panel 3000 mm long and 250 mm wide can be purchased for 100 rubles. , and a bar with a length of 6000 mm and a similar width - already for 200 rubles.

Payment for the services of craftsmen who carry out ceiling finishing will be approximately 450 rubles. for 1 sq. m. If you decide to decorate the ceilings in your house with PVC panels yourself, you will have to incur costs associated only with the purchase of materials.

Brief technology for installing PVC panels for ceilings

Needed for designs made of metal profile and metal suspensions, including frame and sheathing.

On a note! The basis of the structure can also be wooden sheathing. However, it is better to avoid this method in the bathroom, since it is detrimental to wood. high humidity.

Frame installation begins with markings. The quality and success of the work performed depends on it.

According to the applied marks, the profile is fixed to the wall, then transverse elements are installed for subsequent PVC fastenings panels.

PVC panels for the ceiling are mounted on the ceiling frame as follows:

The products are cut to the required size using a hacksaw.
The first panel is attached parallel to the wall surface and sheathing.
The next one is mounted in another groove of the previous plank. The entire ceiling is assembled in this order.
The last rail is carefully adjusted to the distance of the wall.

All elements should fit snugly against each other, and there should be no gaps on the surface.

The process of installing plastic panels will not take you much time. But the ceilings decorated with them will be for a long time please with your appearance.

Installation of PVC ceiling panels on the ceiling video instructions

Today, the following types of plastic materials for ceilings are presented on the construction market:

Seamless PVC panels. Material having some similarity to plastic lining. The main difference is the significant amount of plasticizers in the composition and features lock connection. Planks are quite often used for finishing ceilings and walls in bathrooms. The product is available in widths ranging from 250-400 mm and a wide range of colors. It is possible to purchase material with a glossy or matte surface, or order a surface with a three-dimensional texture. The total thickness of the panel does not exceed 10 mm.

Plastic strip lining. The material of the product has a three-dimensional structure, reinforced with a longitudinal stiffening rib, which forms a sealed cavity. Manufacturers sell products with a total thickness of no more than 10 mm. The profile of plastic materials resembles tongue-and-groove wooden boards, which are used in car cladding. During production, minimal addition of softening additives is used. The product is painted mainly in several solid shades. However, there are panels on the market from manufacturers who use a thermal printing method when painting, which gives the surface a certain shade or image. Lining is the most budget option ceiling cladding.

Rack materials. Modern production allows the production of ceiling materials that imitate the appearance of slats made of metal profiles. Applicable this type The products are mainly used in bathrooms and when facing, they vaguely resemble an aluminum system. Slatted panels They are absolutely not exposed to moisture, and their strength deserves high praise. The service life of the product is more than 20 years.

Acrylic ceiling panels. Recently, such products are gaining increasing popularity. The strips are perfect when additional lighting is installed. It is possible to apply a variety of images to the surface, which is a huge advantage when creating an exclusive interior. However, it is worth remembering that acrylic panels have increased electrification. When working with them, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the inter-ceiling space and complete isolation from dust.

How to install panels

Having purchased plastic ceiling panels, it’s time to stock up on the necessary tools:

A jigsaw is one of the main tools, without which it will be extremely difficult to install a ceiling made of PVC panels.
Hammer/drill. In rooms with a drill will be required if the overlap was carried out reinforced concrete slabs, then only a hammer drill will be useful.
A screwdriver will increase the speed of installation and greatly facilitate the process.
Mallet.
Level (meter, half meter). In the process of work, you will need both, because measurements may be required in hard-to-reach places.
Roulette.
Ladder.
Stapler.
Painting cord.
Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

Having delivered all the tools and ceiling strips to the site where installation will be carried out, you can begin preparing the ceiling.

Surface preparation

You cannot do without cleaning the ceiling if there is even the slightest hint of fungus or rust. This, on the one hand, insignificant detail, can lead in the near future to violations of the integrity of the structure.

The ceiling surface should be evenly treated with specialized products. It is also worth getting rid of crumbling layers of whitewash. Next you need to start marking the surface.

A straight line should be drawn along the perimeter of the room, placing it approximately 7–10 cm below the ceiling. In order to simplify the marking process, experts recommend marking a line at the corners of the room using a level and then stretching the paint cord between the corners.

Mounting options

When attaching ceiling materials made of plastic, one can distinguish following methods installation:

Frame method– reliability stands out.
Frameless method– the main advantage of this method is ease of installation.

Lathing

It is recommended to carry out the lathing from plastic profile, which can be purchased at any hardware store. However, it is worth considering that this material requires the most even base of the ceiling. Therefore, before the labor-intensive process of sheathing, it is worth bringing the ceiling surface to ideal condition, removing all irregularities.

All parts plastic frame equipped with clips and clasp. During the joining process, a fastening is formed that resembles the appearance of a lock. The main part of the frame must be installed along the entire perimeter of the room. Then we fix the guide elements.

Very important! The transverse parts of the frame should be located perpendicular to the plastic panels. If this rule is ignored, then during the assembly process a mismatch of fasteners will occur and dismantling will have to be carried out.

The process of lathing using a plastic profile is completely simple thanks to the mechanisms of latches and clips. WITH similar work Even a beginner can handle it without effort.

A more reliable sheathing is made using a metal profile. The work is carried out in stages:

According to the horizontal markings, it is necessary to install the guide profile. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or dowels.
The profile is attached to a mounted guide around the entire perimeter of the room. To avoid sagging of the material, it is recommended to fasten the profile, placed perpendicularly, at a distance of 50 - 55 cm from each other.
The profile is attached to the ceiling using hangers, which can be purchased at any hardware store.
The cut edge of the guide profile looks extremely unsightly, so to give beautiful view You should use specialized corners for decoration.

They should be secured before installing the ceiling panels.

Panel installation

Frame method. Before attaching the planks, you should make sure that the frame is securely fastened. Under no circumstances should the planks move when acted upon.

We carry out installation in the following order:

Make markings for the location of screws on each plastic panel. Leave the distance between them in the range of 25 - 30 cm.
We begin attaching the material to the frame from the edge of the wall. It is advisable to have an assistant present during the work who will hold the material from the opposite side. When installing subsequent planks, it is necessary to press them as closely as possible to each other.
Having secured the penultimate plank, measure the distance from it to the wall. It often happens that the distance is significantly less than the width of the material. Then you need to cut the plastic panel to the desired size. Under no circumstances should you rush. It is better to do everything as carefully and accurately as possible.
Having installed all the panels, you should start attaching the ceiling plinth. Plastic products are secured with screws, and foam baseboards are glued.

Demon frame method. Situations arise when, for some reason, it is not possible to use the frame installation method. Then the frameless method, which uses specialized glue or liquid nails, will come to the rescue.

When choosing this method of fastening, do not forget that in the future it will be impossible to use the ceiling for a heavy chandelier.

Materials for work

Liquid Nails.
Construction knife.
Level.
The spatula is double-sided.

Let's start installation:

Apply the adhesive base to the panel with a spatula (smooth side). If a lot of glue gets on the surface, you can remove the excess with the same spatula, only with the ribbed side.
Press the plastic material tightly against the ceiling surface. Everything needs to be done very quickly so that the glue does not harden.
This is how all panels are installed. Special attention must be given to the first and last bar. They need to be pressed for quite a long time compared to the internal plastic materials.
We fix the ceiling plinths.

Frameless installation is completely simple to perform and does not require any special knowledge or skills. Experts recommend not opening the windows while attaching the slats, so as not to provoke the material to peel off. You can ventilate the room after 24 hours.

Features of installing panels in rooms with high humidity

In rooms where high humidity prevails, the sheathing has its own characteristics. When making the frame, only metal or plastic can be used mounting profiles. The slats will be attached to the slats using specialized clips.

In addition, it is worth considering that when the temperature changes, the material can expand. Therefore, when adjusting the height of the slats, it is necessary to leave a slight gap. When using a wide beam in the sheathing, it is recommended to place insulation in the resulting space between the panel and the wall.

Price

An important advantage of plastic ceiling strips is their fairly low cost.

Construction stores offer a set of plastic plain panels at a price of 3,100 rubles. These are the simplest planks standard sizes(1.7*1.7). If you plan to purchase material with an image printed on the surface, then you need to be prepared for higher costs. One set can be purchased at a cost of 5,000 rubles and much higher.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic ceiling materials

Advantages:

Plastic strips are a fairly quick option for finishing the ceiling.
Low cost.
Installation is completely simple and accessible even to a beginner.
Moisture resistance.
Soundproofing the room.
Aesthetic appearance.
Easy to care for the product.

Like any other product, PVC ceiling materials also have a number of disadvantages:

Reducing the height of the room.
Low strength.
Blocking direct access to electrical wires.

When laying the panel, do not knock on it. IN such a case the configuration of the edge of the product is disrupted, which will make it difficult for the materials to adhere maximally to each other.
Measure each plank and cut it separately if necessary.
Under no circumstances should the screws be fully tightened. In hot weather, the panels will be able to expand without damage.
To achieve perfect result It is necessary to carry out the installation strictly in stages without rushing.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made of a single color. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight tint, such as “baked milk”, ecru, Ivory and so on.

Depending on the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny inserts. But since the ceiling is made of plastic panels almost always in technical rooms- in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - the small size, as a rule, forces you to choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to the reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when matte ceiling must be taken large quantity lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even package goods in it; many of our products in the kitchen and bathroom are also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What’s nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag soaked in soapy water or disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are truly hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitation station allows them to be used in medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really are burning. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of +360°C. For comparison: fiberboard also begins to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke they emit, plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to install a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with toilet. To prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still not airtight and with sufficient air exchange no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They are distinguished by their rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is not important on the ceiling, so the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can crush them even with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame (if there is one) will be slightly increased and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles clapboard: the same stripes, only made of plastic. A ceiling made from such panels is also called slatted because appearance the surface is very similar.

An almost flat, crack-free surface with hardly visible joints is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a tongue and groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with and is rarely used: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are finished, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of care: almost any dirt is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - depending on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When purchasing PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which you decorate the ends and joints. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a suspended ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one side, suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without having to drill walls. On the other hand, it “eats” some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is the case if the lamps are installed with ordinary ones, and not built-in ones. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main ceiling by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then there should be enough illumination.

Assembling the frame

When installing a suspended ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used for working with drywall. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom or kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden blocks of 30*30 mm or larger cross-section.

First nail the planks or profiles around the perimeter, placing them all level. Then on standard hangers (there are two types) or wooden blocks intermediate guides are attached in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as the previously installed ones (it’s easier to do if you stretch the threads between the already installed ones and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mm, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the frame looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels. It starts with setting up a starting profile. In the case of a ceiling, ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to a profile or strip fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are filed at an angle of exactly 45°. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. On the background white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn’t matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a slight spacer of 1 mm.

The cut strip can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue ceiling molding (with liquid nails). This way the joint turns out perfect: when gluing you press the bar tightly, when screwing it onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it is twisted forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, apply a thin strip of glue in a zigzag. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can use 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and torn off. There should be some glue left on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the plank is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even block and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has completely set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved from place. After 8-12 hours the glue will harden and installation can continue.

If during gluing “liquid nails” are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until it is completely dry, then pry it off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already installed skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. There is no need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not appear in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces at a time, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding on three sides. It is placed with the spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the finishing profile is made of soft plastic, top part(mounting shelf) bends, which creates difficulties during installation. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be secured with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the plank, otherwise you will have to correct it with a spatula, putting the panel in place. She should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is secured to each guide with a self-tapping screw. To attach to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take stainless steel or galvanized staples).

The installation of subsequent stripes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the baseboard by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled by lifting the middle with your hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping the edge with your palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make sure it fits tightly. From below you will see that there is no gap at the joint, which means the strip is normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports installed panel so that it does not fall out while you are securing it with screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by gluing small pieces of double-sided tape to the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. This is how you assemble all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for installing lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring attachment, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you are good with the tool and can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with a regular drill with a thin drill bit... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more good tips there.

Having installed the strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, problems may arise later: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. What if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. That’s why we install and check its functionality right away.

Installing the last panel

The most difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated about this. But then there are two options:

Simply insert the trimmed strip into a pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. If the panel width is sufficient, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip. Otherwise you won't insert it. And so you have to carefully adjust it with something thin (a steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After several attempts, it still works out... But besides the installation difficulties, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the previously measured distance on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then she's in pure form glued to “liquid nails”. Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. Both the one along the wall and the one perpendicular to the installation (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in reserve - just in case.

The installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. First, the mounting strip on it is cut off: you leave only the baseboard. Afterwards, you also cut it at the corners at 45°, try it on, and cut it exactly. After trying it on again “dry” and making sure that the size is correct, apply glue to the plinth, only on both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will stick to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is finished. But sometimes another operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not necessary if you bought high-quality panels that have ideal geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly there is no need for correction: there are no saggings that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction plastic skirting board with a ceiling. Often there are so many cracks that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Filling in the cracks in small areas 30-40 cm each, removing all excess and leveling the seam. Acrylic is well leveled until it sets, and this is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared the piece and corrected it. If everything is fine, continue to apply. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having covered the piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty is cut off evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rubbed with a damp sponge until pure state, otherwise you won’t be able to wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the cracks that appear, rub it in, remove the excess and wash off the smudges. This second time is usually the finishing time. After this layer has dried, plastic ceiling divorces remain. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth until shiny. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the lamps, the repair can be considered complete.

How to attach to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already level and does not need level correction, plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The procedure is the same: first the starting profile, then strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least every 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. You can hit wood with nails or staples from a stapler. It’s more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws won’t work, and you’ll have a hard time drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum distance from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue it on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-removable and will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Ceiling lamps made of plastic panels

We are not talking about design or quantity - here everyone decides for themselves, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate circuit breaker with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of 220 V lamps

If you install 220 V lamps, and install even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the housing. As the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. The heated body causes the plastic to darken and warp over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. In the bathroom, it is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp body is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. Second point: most of them are quite bulky, since the body is usually ceramic. Simply hanging it on plastic will not work: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in the places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: maximum length The wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. The lamps also work normally at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to place the transformer outside the bathroom to improve safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is quite large. Then you will have to carry it into the bathroom and hide it behind suspended ceiling made of plastic panels (device thickness is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes each lamp has its own transformer. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.