Refrigerator repair and installation: principles of operation of different types, typical faults, components. Refrigerator repair and installation: principles of operation of different types, typical faults, components Increased noise level

It is necessary to determine the causes of the failurerefrigerator. How to make diagnostics yourself. You will find all this on our website. Error codes and how to fix the problem.

On the market household appliances Every year new models of refrigerators of various types appear brands. Modern design, applied engineering and technical solutions allow refrigerators to operate for a long period without breakdowns. However, as everyone knows, technology does not last forever. Sooner or later, consumers will have to deal with the repair of their food storage unit.

Self-diagnostics of the refrigerator.

The first thing that comes to mind for domestic consumers is try to repair refrigerators yourself. This makes a certain sense, since indeed some problems can be easily fixed yourself with minimal financial costs. To carry out minor repairs, knowledge of the general design of the refrigerator, some skills in working with a measuring tester and knowledge of electrics are sufficient.Replacing the seal yourself.

If your refrigerator is not working, you should check whether there is power supply to it voltage. All you have to do is open the door refrigerator compartment. If light appears in the refrigerator and there is a light indication on the information boards, then voltage is supplied to the refrigerator.

Next you should check the work thermostat. To do this, use the temperature regulator to set the level to maximum cold. If even then the operation of the refrigerator does not resume, then the fault should be looked for both in the thermostat itself and in the compressor motor or in its starting and protection circuit. As a rule, repairing a relay thermostat, or rather replacing it, is quite simple. It is enough to buy a new one and install it instead of the faulty one.

Job thermostat It is unlikely that you will be able to perform a task performed on the basis of an electronic sensor on your own. The relay-based compressor starting system is also easy to check with a conventional tester. If necessary, replacing a faulty one takes no more than ten minutes if a new one is available.It is not difficult to restore the operation of the refrigerator when interruption of visible electrical conductors or oxidation of various contacts on the relay. Malfunctions in this case can be eliminated by ordinary stripping and connection. Unpleasant odors in a refrigerator can be eliminated by thoroughly cleaning the refrigerator compartments and clearing clogged drain pipes to allow condensate to escape freely. How to properly defrost a refrigerator.

Self-repair of a refrigerator with a no-frost system.

Modern refrigerators are complex devices,built on the basis of microprocessor-controlled electronic units that process information from various sensors and sensors, and also control the operation of all systems. When blocks fail electronic control repair refrigerators yourself You can not. Naturally, you will also not be able to eliminate compressor malfunctions or leaks in refrigerant pipes. It is better to entrust the implementation of all specified work qualified specialists. Only they can restore normal work all systems. This especially applies to refrigerators with the Nofrost system with complex systems of sensors, heaters and cold air circulation. Do not repair the refrigerator yourself. Trust it only to professionals, who will perform all operations efficiently and without failwill provide you with a guarantee.

A refrigerator repairman talks about repairing them at home.

If the “age” of your refrigerator does not allow you to count on free warranty service, then any breakdown of it promises quite considerable costs. Even a simple call to a technician at home to determine the problem is not cheap.

Fortunately, failure of a refrigerator does not always entail replacement of its components in a special workshop. Some things can be fixed at home, and without much expense. Basically this "something" refers to electrical diagram refrigerator.

But the main thing is to determine what is broken and whether you can fix it on your own, or you will have to turn to professionals for help.

To make a diagnosis, let's look at the most general outline device and operating principle household refrigerator compression type.

DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE REFRIGERATOR.

The working chamber of the refrigerator is cooled by the refrigeration unit (Fig. 1). It consists of a motor-compressor, a condenser and an evaporator, connected to each other by a piping system. The refrigeration unit is completely sealed and filled under pressure with refrigerant - freon-12 gas.

The refrigeration unit operates as follows. The compressor pumps out freon vapor from the evaporator, compresses it and pumps it into the condenser. Here the vapors cool, condense and turn into liquid freon. Next, the latter is sent through a filter-drier and a capillary tube to the evaporator. In its internal channels, liquid freon evaporates, removing heat from the walls and thus cooling the air in the refrigeration chamber. Freon vapor is pumped out of the evaporator by a compressor. The cycle repeats continuously.

To maintain the required thermal regime inside refrigeration chamber the unit operates, periodically turning on and off by an automatic temperature sensor-relay. The electric motor of the motor compressor is turned on by a starting relay, in the same housing with which a thermal protective relay is mounted, designed to protect the electric motor from overloads. These elements provide automatic control refrigeration unit and are shown in the electrical circuit diagram of the refrigerator in Fig. 2.

For simplicity, the diagram does not show signal lamps, a refrigeration chamber lighting lamp, heating elements for forced defrosting of the evaporator and body cross members, since these elements do not affect the process of starting and operating the refrigerator.

Let's trace the operation of the electrical circuit of the refrigerator and consider what functions the main elements of the circuit perform.

When the refrigeration unit is operating in the “cooling” (“operation”) mode, the current flows through the circuit - from the network through the contacts of the temperature sensor-relay P1 (they are closed). The contacts of the relay-switch P2* of the “defrosting” mode are also closed, forming a closed circuit with the working winding of the motor-compressor electric motor, the starting relay coil K, heating element P2, bimetallic plate BM, contacts of thermal protective relay KK, network. The electric motor of the motor-compressor in this mode rotates at rated speed. The current consumed by the electric motor from the network does not exceed the rated value. Therefore, the contacts KD of the starting relay and the contacts KK of the thermal protection relay remain in the position indicated in the diagram (see Fig. 2) and do not in any way affect the operation of the refrigeration unit.

Many refrigerators do not have a special relay for switch P2 operating in the “defrost” mode (a device for semi-automatic defrosting of the evaporator). The control circuits of these refrigerators have only one pair of normally closed contacts of the temperature sensor-relay P1.

Upon reaching the specified minimum temperature cooling of the refrigerating chamber, the temperature sensor-relay is triggered and opens contacts P1, after which the refrigeration unit stops.

As the temperature in the refrigeration chamber rises, the temperature sensor-relay closes contacts P1, the power supply circuit of the electric motor is restored and current flows through it again. But, since the electric motor does not rotate at the initial moment, the current it consumes (starting current) is 3... 5 times higher than the rated one. A large starting current, flowing through the winding of coil K of the starting relay, causes it to operate and close the contacts CD. The closed contacts of the CD connect the starting winding of the electric motor to the network (see Fig. 2) and the motor accelerates to the rated speed, and the current it consumes is reduced. When the current decreases to the rated value, the CD contacts open, and the motor power supply circuit automatically switches to the “operation” mode described above. The whole cycle automatic start engine in a working refrigerator takes no more than 2... 3 s.

If during this time the electric motor of the motor-compressor does not start or the current it consumes after starting is higher than the rated one, then after 5.,. 10 s, heating element B2 will heat the bimetallic plate BM, which, bending, opens the contacts KK and turns off the electric motor. Thus, the electric motor is protected from overheating. After some time, the BM plate will cool down and return to initial position, closing the CC, and there will be a second attempt to automatically start the electric motor.

This is how a refrigeration unit and devices operate that ensure its operation in automatic mode in a working refrigerator.

Now let's return to the issue of diagnostics and troubleshooting.

By external signs The overwhelming number of faults can be divided into two types:

1. When turned on, the refrigerator does not start, or it starts, but after a few seconds it stops, then it starts again and stops again. And so on. In these cases, the fault should most likely be looked for in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator (see Fig. 2).

2. When plugged in, the refrigerator starts up normally and works, but does not “freeze” properly. In this situation, the most likely cause of the malfunction is damage to one of the elements of the refrigeration unit (see Fig. 1).

REFRIGERATOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTIONS.

If you suspect a malfunction in the electrical circuit, first of all you need to make sure that it is working properly power socket and the mains voltage corresponds to the norm -220 V±10% At a voltage below 195 V, most refrigerators can no longer operate normally.

The most convenient way to check the socket and supply wires is with an Avometer (tester). If there is no Avometer, you can use a control light. A table lamp is also suitable for this.

The widely used indicator in the form of a screwdriver or a fountain pen with a neon light bulb is of little use for this purpose, since it breaks neutral wire difficult to detect using it.

After making sure that the socket and plug of the power cord are working properly and that reliable contact is ensured - nothing sparks or gets hot - you can proceed to troubleshooting the electrical circuit of the refrigerator

The “heart” of the refrigerator - the motor-compressor is located, as a rule, at the very bottom of the housing in a niche. This is either a horizontal cylinder (DH type), suspended on springs, or a “saucepan” (FG type), rigidly screwed to the frame.

Carefully inspect the wires, terminal assemblies and connectors, having first disconnected from the network!!! Melted, charred or cracked parts from heating will accurately indicate the place where you should first look for a malfunction

If upon external inspection there is no damage visible to the naked eye, it is necessary to determine whether the motor windings are intact. To do this, disconnect the start-up relay from the motor compressor. The relay can be mounted directly on the rigid terminals of the motor-compressor or stand on the frame next to the motor-compressor and connected to it with three flexible conductor leads (see Fig. 2), the first of which is the terminal starting winding electric motor (“start”), the second is the output of the working winding (“work”), the third -common wire for starting and working windings (“common”)

To check the electric motor windings, as well as all other electrical circuits of the refrigerator, an ohmmeter (avometer) is absolutely necessary. If you don’t have one, a homemade indicator will help out (Fig. 3).

Using an ohmmeter or indicator, you need to check the continuity of the circuit between the three terminals of the motor-compressor and between any of these terminals and the housing. They do it like this. Connect one of the probes of the ohmmeter or indicator to one of the terminals, and with the other probe touch the two remaining terminals and the housing in turn. The deviation of the instrument needle indicates that the circuit being tested is intact. For a serviceable engine, all options for pairwise testing of the terminals (“general” - “working”, “general” - “start” and “working” - “starting”) should show continuity of the circuit and should not show the presence of a circuit between any from the terminals and the housing. Otherwise, there is a “break” in one of the windings or the winding is shorted to the housing. The conclusion is clear: in the event of such a malfunction, the motor-compressor must be replaced.

If, as a result of checking the motor windings, you come to the conclusion that everything is in order here, the next step in troubleshooting is checking the control circuits (see Fig. 2).

To check this part of the electrical circuit of the refrigerator, you need to disconnect two supply wires from the start-up relay and temporarily short them together. By touching the probes of an ohmmeter or indicator to the contact pins of the power plug, you can simultaneously check the serviceability of the plug, the power cord, the contacts of the temperature sensor P1, and the contacts of the defrosting relay switch P2.

If an ohmmeter or indicator shows that there is no “open” in the circuit being tested, then all of the listed elements are beyond suspicion. If the ohmmeter shows an “open” circuit, all of the listed elements require detailed checking. We will not dwell in detail on the repair of the plug and power cord (in places where it is bent, the internal current-carrying conductors may break). Such elementary malfunctions occur quite often not only in the refrigerator.

REPAIR OF TEMPERATURE SENSOR-RELAY AND RELAY-SWITCH.

To check the temperature sensor-relay and the “defrost” relay-switch, they must be removed and the supply wires disconnected from their terminals. This is not difficult to do. The only tool you need is a screwdriver. An ohmmeter (indicator) is used to check the condition of the contacts of each relay: “open” means that this relay is faulty and should be replaced with a new one.

What if there is no new one? With the “defrost” relay switch, everything is simple - its conclusions can be connected to each other with a wire jumper, and the refrigerator will come to life again. The only inconvenience is that you will have to get rid of the ice coat on the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment by periodically unplugging the refrigerator from the mains manually.

For a temperature sensor-relay, this “repair” method is unacceptable. You can connect the terminals of this relay with a jumper only to ensure that the diagnosis is correct. This relay is one of the most critical parts of the refrigerator, so it is best to replace it with a guaranteed serviceable one, that is, a new one.

But... in a hopeless situation, if there is no new relay, you can try to repair the old one. A manometric temperature sensor-relay, for example, type ART-2 (Fig. 4) is a sealed cavity filled with freon-12, which, through a flexible membrane (bellows) and a system of levers, acts on the contacts, turning the electric motor of the motor-compressor on and off.

Most often it is the contact group that fails. There are usually two reasons: either burning and oxidation of the contacts, or breakage of the spring contact plate due to “fatigue” of the metal at the point of greatest bending (see Fig. 4).

In the first case, it is enough to clean and level the contacting surfaces of the contact “patches”. In the second, replace the entire spring plate, securing the new one with an M2 screw and nut. As a blank for a new plate, you can use contact plates from relays of the MKU-48 type.

However, from the point of view of greater reliability and ease of adjustment, it is better to make the curved part of the spring contact plate from two thinner plates, as shown in Fig. 4.

The contact group repaired in this way is easily adjusted and works reliably for several years.

MALFUNCTION OF STARTING PROTECTION RELAY.

If, as a result of checking the control circuits, it turns out that all the elements of this section of the circuit (see Fig. 2) are operational, then all that remains is to “deal” with the start-up protection relay. To remove the relay cover, you will have to drill out the rivets that secure it to the base (when assembling the relay after repair, they will need to be replaced with MZ screws and nuts).

There are relays in which the cover is attached to the base simply with latches. They must be carefully bent with a screwdriver. The design of most types of start-up relays is the same (Fig. 5).

We have already discussed above how a working starting relay should work. The most common malfunctions are: burning of contact pair 1 and 2; jamming of core 5 in the internal channel of the coil frame; breakage of rod 3 and destruction of the spring. To eliminate the listed malfunctions, it is necessary to remove coil 4 from the housing. As a rule, it is simply attached with a latch. Remove the “jumping” contacts 2 from its channel along with the rod 3, core 5 and spring. Clean the coil channel and core from dust and dirt. You may need to sand the core and inner surface channel so that the core 5 moves in the channel under own weight completely free without distortions or jams. Be sure to clean the working surfaces of contacts 1 and 2. Now all that remains is to assemble the starting relay in the reverse order.

ROD BREAKAGE.

A common cause of failure of the start relay is the breakdown of the plastic rod 3 (Fig. 5). You can replace it with a homemade rod made from a 2.5x35 mm nail. Dimensions in fig. 6 are indicated for start-up protection relay type RTK-X (M). For other types of relays, the dimensions can be easily determined locally. A starting relay restored in this way works for a long time and reliably.

However, sometimes you have to deal with a very unpleasant situation: after working for another week, contacts 1 and 2 again burn and oxidize to such an extent that they cease to perform their functions. After repeated stripping, the contacts burn and stop working as quickly as in the first case. It is very rare, but it happens that even replacing the relay with a completely new one leads to the same result. There can be many reasons for this behavior. We will not list them all, since most of them are difficult to eliminate at home. But even in this case, it is possible to restore normal operation of the refrigerator using an electronic switch on a triac (Fig. 7, a).

In the proposed circuit, the CD contacts of the starting relay close the circuit not of the starting winding, but of the control electrode of the triac V51, and a very small current flows through them, which does not cause their destruction and wear. The current through the starting winding is turned on and off by triac V51 of the KU208G type. It can be replaced with TS112-10, TS122-10 and others with an operating current of at least 2 A and designed for voltages above 400V. The scarce triac can be replaced by two widely used thyristors of the KU202N type (Fig. 7, b). This circuit is equivalent in all respects to the circuit in Fig. 7, a, but contains more details.

THERMAL PROTECTION RELAY MALFUNCTION.

Another fairly common malfunction is the burnout of heater R2 in the thermal protection relay. The refrigerator, of course, does not turn on. This malfunction can be easily determined using an ohmmeter (indicator) with the start-protective relay cover removed. After making sure that the fault is here, the start-up relay must be replaced with a new one. It is not recommended to repair the thermal protection device at home, since it protects not only the electric motor windings from overheating, but also your home from fire. This is too important a detail and you shouldn’t skimp on it.

PROBLEMS THAT CANNOT BE SOLVED AT HOME.

So, we have considered the most typical faults, arising in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator. If, as a result of checking it, you are convinced that the temperature sensor-relay P1 and the “defrosting” relay-switch P2 (semi-automatic defrosting device) are working properly, all elements of the start-up protection relay correctly perform their functions, and the electric motor windings do not have breaks or short circuits to the housing, but The refrigerator nevertheless does not work (it turns on and then turns off), which means that the fault is in the refrigeration unit. This could be a breakdown of the compressor, partial or complete blockage of the capillary tube, filter drier, or an interturn short circuit in the windings of the electric motor.

To diagnose and repair these faults, special equipment and tools are required. Without them, it is impossible to carry out repairs at home; you will have to turn to specialists.

Unfortunately, you will have to turn to specialists even if your refrigerator starts normally when connected to the network, but does not “freeze” as it should. Most often, due to depressurization and leakage of freon, it is necessary to replace the evaporator, condenser, motor-compressor, or the entire refrigeration unit.

Household appliances in a diverse range fill everyone's life modern man. There are devices that we can easily do without, even though they make our lives easier, and there are those devices without which life is impossible. As you know, all equipment tends to break down, but the greatest disappointment comes at the moment when a very necessary equipment breaks down, the repair of which is often very expensive, and purchasing a new one is even more expensive. We will talk about the refrigerator - an appliance that is in every home, and the breakdown of which will upset any owner.

Few people know that a refrigerator can be repaired without contacting service center. During the time that refrigerators have been living in our home, many craftsmen have accumulated successful experience in eliminating the most common problems that arise during operation. The main advantage modern equipment generating cold is its device, which even an inexperienced master can understand.

Cold formation

Naturally, before starting repairs, you need to understand how it works household appliance. The most important thing in a refrigerator is the unit that produces cold. The production of cold in the chamber is carried out due to the main three components, which are connected to each other by a piping system: evaporator, compressor and condenser. Inside closed system there is a refrigerant-generating gas. Previously, freon-12 was used for these purposes. However, in modern household appliances, as cooling, it is customary to use safer substances that promote the production of cold.

The walls of the refrigerator are cooled by a compressor, which pumps out the cooling gas using an electric motor, and the gas is pumped in using a condenser. The radiator system cools the gas and transfers it to liquid state followed by its return to the evaporator. As a result, a continuous cycle allows for constant evaporation.

Cooling cycle

In order to reduce energy consumption, as well as increase the service life of the device, reduce wear on the mechanical parts of the refrigeration unit, the device is equipped with a large and massive door, which performs the protective (isolating) function of the refrigerator chamber from external influences. The compressor motor does not run constantly due to a special system that controls the switching on and off of the refrigerator, allowing it to maintain the desired temperature.

The temperature inside the household appliance is controlled by a temperature relay, which operates in the correct mode, constantly monitoring the switching on and off of the compressor. This happens when the temperature inside the refrigerator drops or rises above the set parameters. Automatic mechanisms designed to create a continuous cycle of work.

At the moment when the refrigerator produces cold, the compressor motor moves at rated power and passes through the main network electricity, supplied from the electrical network through a temperature relay, using closed contacts. At the same time, the relay that turns on the “defrost” function is in the closed contact position. As a result, a closed operating chain is formed. The electricity consumed by a working refrigerator is equal to the rated power, which can be found in the instructions or technical data sheet.

When the temperature inside the refrigerator drops, a signal is sent to the relay, the contacts open, and the compressor motor turns off. Accordingly, an increase in temperature entails closing the contacts and turning on the compressor.

Then the following happens: when the compressor motor starts, but the refrigerator motor does not spin, a starting start occurs, at which time the amount of electricity consumed increases several times. The relay trigger mechanism reacts to such changes, resulting in the contacts closing. When the contacts are closed, the starting winding of the engine is connected to the electrical network, and after the engine starts rotating, the power consumption is reduced from the starting power to the rated power. It is worth noting that starting the engine in a refrigerator that is working properly occurs in a matter of seconds.

In turn, if a household appliance breaks down and the engine cannot be started the first time, the bimetallic plate heats up. The process lasts about 15 seconds, after which the plate opens and breaks the circuit. The subsequent flow of current will only occur after the plate has completely cooled down and another attempt will follow to start the engine. If unsuccessful, the circuit will open again.

Thus, the refrigerator’s automation begins to work at the moment of startup.

After a detailed study of the principle of operation of the refrigerator, you can begin to identify faults, as well as search for methods to eliminate them. It is necessary to clearly understand what kind of breakdown has occurred, and also to soberly assess the chances of correcting it with your own hands.

In fact, all breakdowns that occur in refrigerators can be divided into two parts:

• no cooling inner chamber refrigerator, despite the fact that the engine starts normally. In such a situation, the cause of the breakdown should be sought in the main components unit;
• The refrigerator does not turn on or turns on for a short time, after which it turns off. In case of such a breakdown, the cause lies in a malfunction in the electrical circuit of the household appliance.

The master's work is afraid:

That’s right, the help of refrigerator repair specialists is necessary in the first case, due to the fact that it will not be possible to fix the malfunction at home. There may be a leak of refrigerant gas in the refrigerator, which is a consequence of loss of sealing. In addition, it may be necessary to completely replace major operating systems.

Household chores:

If any electrical mechanism in your device breaks down, most likely the fault can be fixed without the help of specialists. Naturally, the first step is to diagnose the breakdown and determine whether it can be fixed without replacing the main part.

Tools and Diagnostics

So, having determined that the breakdown belongs to the second group, you need to arm yourself with tools: a universal tester and a screwdriver, a meager set, but quite effective. The first thing to do is determine the quality of the voltage in the network. At high quality its indicators will be equal to 220 Volts; anything lower may lead to failure of the device.

Then you need to carefully inspect the cord and power plug, which ensure the necessary contact. They should not be damaged, broken, should not spark or heat up.

After this, you need to check the compressor terminals; they should also be in proper shape. Here you should check the voltage, and if it good quality Unplug the refrigerator from the outlet. Further, all manipulations occur only in the disabled state.

It is also necessary to inspect the compressor itself. It is located at the bottom of the back of the appliance. The compressor should not have any damage; if there is any, it will be possible to determine the location of the breakdown.

After a visual inspection, you should proceed to checking the integrity of the windings; in the same area there is a relay responsible for starting the refrigerator. Before inspection, you must disconnect flexible wires. Usually the terminals have corresponding symbols indicating their purpose.

To check the winding circuit for integrity, you need to switch the tester to ohmmeter mode, then secure the free wire to the tester, and use the other end of the tester to check the remaining terminals. In addition, diagnostics should also be performed in pairs. If the tester does not show any movements (arrow deviations), there is a possibility of damage to the circuit winding or short circuit. If this is confirmed, you need to change the compressor motor.

It is also necessary to check the control circuits. This can be done by short-circuiting two wires disconnected from the relay and checking the contact between the wires and the power plug. If contact is detected, then the cord, defrost and temperature sensor in good condition. If there is no contact, each block is checked separately in order to determine faults.

If there are kinks on the cord or near the plug, then they must be carefully inspected; as practice shows, the breakdown is often located in these places.

Inspection of small parts

Quite often, the cause of the breakdown lies in small parts, as a result of which the failure of the entire system disrupts the entire unit.

Temperature sensor

To check this part, as well as the defrost regulator, you must first remove them and disconnect the wiring. This can be done using a screwdriver. Using a tester, check each wire; if there is a short circuit, the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the defrost function does not work, you can simply install a jumper. It is made with a metal bug. The only thing worth noting is that this method is only suitable for older models of refrigerators. Otherwise, if freezing is not controlled, a more serious failure may occur. This is due to the fact that the device will operate without shutdown control; this will need to be done manually. When installing a bug, you must do everything possible to fix the problem and remove it as quickly as possible.

If the temperature sensor breaks down, it must be replaced.

Refrigerator thermostat replacement

DIY repair

If, during a complete diagnosis, it was determined that the circuit is operating normally and has no breaks, the start and protection relays should be checked. This can be done by removing the cover. It can only be removed if the aluminum rivets are drilled out, after which the cover is secured using special screws and nuts.

On old-style refrigerators, such a cover is attached using latches, which are pushed aside with a screwdriver and the cover is removed.

The biggest problem with the relay is the burnout of the contacts of the pair; the core can also jam in the coil, the rod breaks and the spring jams. The first thing you need to do to fix the breakdown is to first take out the coil; it is secured with latches. After this, it is necessary to remove the core and contacts with the rod from the coil. The next step is to clean the parts from dirt and dust. You can use alcohol impregnation and soft cloth. If necessary, the core is cleaned with sandpaper or a file to ensure free movement in the coil channel. All contacts must also be cleaned.

Quite often, the result of a breakdown of the start and protection relay is a breakdown of the rod. You can replace the factory rod (plastic) with a homemade rod. It is made from a nail measuring 5x35 millimeters; moreover, a metal part will last longer than a plastic one.

After installing the rod, the start and protection relay is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly, installed in place, and contacts are made.

As you can see, repairing a refrigerator in case of breakdowns of the second group often does not require the help of a specialist. You just need to understand the circuit of your household appliance and evaluate your abilities. If you feel that you are unable to repair even a basic breakdown, it is recommended that you take your household appliance to a service center or call a specialist to your home. You can monitor its actions and subsequent breakdowns of this type, if any occur, can be repaired yourself.

In any case, everyone do-it-yourself repair should be considered, you may damage the refrigerator more than you repair it, and you will have to buy a new one, which will entail large financial costs.

Refrigerator repair Replacing the compressor on the refrigerator

It is impossible to imagine a modern kitchen without a refrigerator. This white cabinet- the main assistant in storing things, which means you need to treat it with care, trying to extend its service life. Buying a new refrigerator often entails additional costs. But it happens that the device fails. It's good if this happens during warranty period. What if after it expires? In this case, repairing a refrigerator in a workshop or by inviting a specialist can cost a pretty penny. Thrifty owners try to avoid unexpected expenses. But not everyone knows that you can fix a refrigerator at home.

DIY repair

Before we begin diagnosing the malfunction, let's find out what main parts the unit consists of. So, electric heaters. They are used to heat the refrigerator generator and help prevent condensation from collecting. New models, thanks to this detail, have the No Frost function. Also, most new products are equipped with electric compressor motors. The fan is responsible for air circulation, and the thermostat is responsible for maintaining the set temperature. When the refrigerator is turned on, the motor windings are automatically turned on, and the starting relay is responsible for this. The protective relay prevents engine damage in the event of power surges. There are also cleaning devices that remove snow and ice, as well as lamps that light up when the door is opened. Failure of any of the listed parts will lead to a malfunction of the refrigerator. Let's look at the most common problems and how to fix them.

Doesn't turn on?

If you notice that your refrigerator has stopped working, but the voltage in the outlets is fine, do not rush to panic. Check serviceability plug and cord may need to be replaced. You don’t need to take a refrigerator to the workshop for this; any man can repair this breakdown with his own hands. If everything is in order with the plug and wire, and the indicator light on the device lights up, it is quite possible that the problem is in the operation of the thermostat. Determine which wires are connected to the temperature controller (there are two), and then remove them from the terminals and crimp them tightly. This way you can check the operation of the thermostat itself. If after all the manipulations the refrigerator still does not turn on, test all devices operating from the network using an ohmmeter. It will help identify an open circuit, if any.

Has it stopped freezing?

What should you do if the appliance no longer performs the main function for which you buy a refrigerator? Do-it-yourself repair depends on what kind of breakdown occurred. This usually occurs due to a freon leak, compressor failure, or when the temperature balance changes due to a faulty thermostat. Of all the above, at home, you can only replace the thermostat to make the refrigerator work. It will be difficult to repair everything else yourself, so you will have to contact the service department.

World household devices V Lately is steadily expanding and improving. Without some of them our life is already unthinkable. And who doesn’t know what a disappointment the breakdown of an irreplaceable device in the house brings?

However, repairing a refrigerator at home is quite possible without contacting a service center. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, over the past half century, the refrigerator has become a truly indispensable appliance in household. The prevalence of refrigerators makes it possible to accumulate certain experience not only in operation, but also in eliminating malfunctions that arise during its operation. Secondly, despite its size, the refrigerator is relatively simple in design; even a fifth-grader can understand the principle of its operation.

The article we offer will help you independently understand not only the structure of the refrigerator, but also eliminate most of the problems that arise in everyday life of this truly irreplaceable device.

Part One: Where does the cold come from?

Before we talk about refrigerator repair, let's understand the structure and operating principles of this important household device.
The basic operating principle of a refrigeration unit

The main part of the refrigerator - the refrigeration unit - cools the main part, the working chamber of the refrigerator. The refrigeration unit consists of three large modules connected to each other by a piping system: a condenser, an evaporator and a compressor, which is the “heart” of the refrigerator. The refrigeration unit system is closed, it is filled with a special refrigeration gas, which was previously used as freon-12. Nowadays, substances that do not pose a threat to the ozone layer of the earth are used as refrigeration gas. The schematic structure of the refrigeration unit is shown in Figure 1.

Compressor equipped electric motor, pumps out refrigerant gas from the evaporator, ensuring cooling of its walls. The gas is pumped into the condenser, where, thanks to a system of radiators, it cools and turns into a liquid state. The liquid refrigeration gas enters the evaporator again, where it evaporates under low pressure, giving off heat to the inner walls of the evaporator. Thanks to the continuous cycle, continuous evaporation is ensured when the motor is running.

Life cycle of refrigeration.

To save money electrical energy and preventing premature mechanical wear of the refrigeration unit, the working chamber of the refrigerator, as a rule, most time isolated from environment massive door. To maintain a certain temperature regime in such conditions, there is a control system for periodically turning on and off the compressor motor.

The main mechanism of the temperature control system is a temperature relay that operates in a specific corridor. If the temperature of the refrigerator chamber is above the upper limit of this temperature corridor, then the relay turns on the compressor motor; when the temperature drops below the set limit, the relay turns off the motor. In addition, temperature control systems are usually equipped with a motor overheat protection relay, which, when the compressor reaches certain temperature, also turn off the motor. These elements automatic operation refrigerators ensure continuous operation of the system; they are shown schematically in the electrical circuit diagram in Figure 2.

In addition, refrigeration chambers are equipped with warning lamps, additional lighting lamps, forced defrosting heating elements and many others. additional modules, the influence of which on the basic principle of operation of the refrigerator is insignificant. They are not shown on the electrical circuit diagram of the refrigerator.

Let's visually go through the diagram and try to understand in more detail how the refrigerator works.

In the “operation” mode, when cooling is in progress and the motor compressor motor rotates at rated speed, current flows through the main circuit - from the network through the closed contacts of the temperature sensor-relay P1, the contacts of the defrost sensor-relay P2 are also closed. Thus, a closed circuit is formed with the working winding of the electric motor of the motor compressor, the starting relay coil K, the heating element P2, the bimetallic plate BM, and the contacts of the thermal protective relay KK. The current consumed by the refrigerator in this mode is equal to the nominal value - what is written in the device passport.

When the temperature in the refrigerating chamber drops below the specified temperature range, the relay is activated and opens the contacts P1, after which the current stops flowing through the network and the motor of the refrigeration unit stops.

When the temperature in the refrigerating chamber reaches the upper limits of the temperature corridor, the relay is activated again and closes contacts P1, the compressor motor turns on.

This is where the most interesting thing happens in the whole process of continuous cyclic operation of the refrigerator. At the initial moment of startup, the motor of the refrigerator compressor motor does not rotate, and the current consumed by the motor (the so-called “starting current”) is three to five times higher than the rated one, depending on the model and power of the refrigeration unit. Coil K of the starting relay reacts to increased current consumption. The starting relay is activated and closes the CD contacts. The starting winding of the electric motor is connected to the network via these contacts. After the motor rotor begins to rotate, the motor reduces current consumption to the rated level, the current passing through the K coil is insufficient to hold the CD contacts, they open and the refrigerator begins to operate normally. This whole process, called “start-up”, in a working refrigerator takes no more than two to three seconds.

If the refrigerator is faulty, or it was simply not possible to start the compressor motor the first time, and the increased starting current flows through the circuit for 5-10 seconds, the bimetallic plate of the BM will heat up. When heated, the BM plate will bend and open the KK contacts, breaking the circuit. The current will not pass until the BM plate cools down and returns to its original position. After this, an attempt will be made to restart the engine; if it fails, the overheating protection system will work again.

It is precisely this cyclic principle that underlies the automation of both the entire operation of the refrigerator and its very initial stage.

Part Two: Refrigeration Doctor made easy

Let's now move on to diagnostics and troubleshooting. First, let's try to classify the malfunction, to understand for ourselves what happened to our refrigerator. Let’s evaluate our capabilities to see how realistically we can help our pet on our own.
Flies - separately, cutlets - separately

The main malfunctions that one encounters when operating a refrigerator are divided into two large groups:

When you turn on the refrigerator, the compressor motor starts normally, you can hear the operation of the refrigeration unit, but there is no cooling inside the cooling chamber itself. In this case, you should use Figure 1 to identify the malfunction, since the cause most likely lies in one of the large modules of the unit.

When plugged into the outlet, the refrigerator does not turn on, or it turns on for a very short time, after which it automatically turns off. After which, either attempts to restart the compressor motor occur with some frequency, or restart attempts do not occur until the refrigerator is turned off and plugged in again. In this case, the fault should be looked for in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator and be guided by Figure 2.

What we can't do, we leave to the master.

As a rule, if a refrigerator malfunction belongs to the first group, then it is impossible to repair it yourself, at home. The reason could be, for example, depressurization of the refrigeration unit system, resulting in a leak of refrigerant gas. To troubleshoot the first group of problems, you will have to contact specialists, since it may be necessary to replace the condenser, evaporator, compressor or the entire refrigeration unit.

What we can do - we do it with our own hands

Let's look at the second group of faults related to problems in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator - more precisely, those that can be fixed at home, with your own hands. It is clear that, for example, an interturn short circuit in the windings of an electric motor or a clogged capillary tube of the evaporator will require replacement of the entire module, so we will not consider these faults. However, it is necessary to carry out preliminary diagnostics in order to exclude, or, conversely, confirm these malfunctions.

The main tools you will need for diagnosis are a screwdriver and a universal tester.

If there is a suspicion of a malfunction in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator, then, first of all, using a tester you need to make sure that the voltage in the refrigerator is normal. electrical network- it should be 220 Volts ±10%. At a voltage of 195 Volts and below, many refrigerators will not be able to operate.

After this, you need to make sure that the power socket and plug are in good working order, provide full contact, and do not heat up or spark.

And instead of a heart there is a fiery motor

Pay attention to the compressor terminals; they should not be melted, charred or cracked. After you use a tester to verify that there is normal voltage at the motor terminals, the refrigerator must be disconnected from the network and that’s it. further work should only be carried out when the power supply is turned off.

The compressor is usually located at the bottom back wall refrigerator. It is necessary to inspect the motor for mechanical damage, deformations, which may indicate thermal effects on the part, charring. Anomalies will clearly indicate the place where the problem should be looked for.

If faults cannot be visually localized, then the next thing to do is check the integrity of the compressor motor windings. As a rule, a start-protection relay is attached to the hard terminals of the compressor, or directly next to it. Before checking, it is necessary to disconnect three flexible wires going from the relay to the motor terminals (often these terminals for connecting to the start-up relay are specially marked - “start”, the starting winding output, “slave”, the working winding output and “common”, the common terminal for these windings).

You need to check the integrity of the winding circuit. To do this, one of the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) is attached to one free terminal, and with the other probe you need to touch the other two remaining terminals and the motor housing in turn. Afterwards, it is also necessary to measure the other two terminals in pairs. For a pointer tester, the presence of contact will be indicated by the deviation of the device needle in ohmmeter mode. For a working compressor motor, the device should indicate the presence of contact between any two motor terminals and the absence of contact between any of them and the motor housing. If this is not the case, then either the winding has broken or the winding has shorted to the housing. In this case, it is necessary to replace the compressor motor.

Check control reliability

If everything is in order with the windings, refer again to Figure 2. You will need to check the control circuits. To do this, two lead wires that were previously disconnected from the start-up protection relay should be short-circuited and checked for contact between them and the contact pins of the power plug. If the tester shows the presence of contact, then the plug and power cord, temperature relay sensor P1 and defrosting relay switch P2 should be excluded from further troubleshooting, since these blocks are part of a single circuit.

If there is no contact, then each of the named blocks should be carefully checked separately.

There is no point in dwelling on malfunctions of the power cord and its plug, since this type of malfunction is quite common in everyday life in general. One has only to say that you need to pay close attention to the bends in the power cord - in these places there may be a break in the current-carrying wires.

Part Three: The smallest one works the hardest

Let's take a closer look at small parts. Agree, sometimes it is annoying because a small, insignificant part that performs routine, simple work in the entire mechanism becomes a bottleneck and does not allow the large organism of the refrigeration unit to function fully.

A bug is not always good

To check the temperature sensor and defrost relay, you must first remove them using a screwdriver by disconnecting the supply wires. Then the tester needs to check each relay individually, short circuit will mean that this relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.

In principle, if the defrost relay malfunctions, it can be replaced with a simple jumper, a metal “bug”. But, strictly speaking, this can only be done for old refrigerators that do not have complex systems balancing, maintaining the microclimate inside the refrigeration chamber and other high-tech sensors that can become unusable due to uncontrolled freezing. After all, the refrigerator will work without interruption, the operation process will be controlled only manually, by turning on and off the power cord from the power outlet. And in this case, you need to take care of more frequent cleaning freezer, since excessive ice build-up can deform the evaporator and thus damage the entire system of the refrigeration unit. At the first opportunity, the metal “bug” will need to be replaced with a working relay as quickly as possible.

For a faulty temperature sensor, no “tuning” methods are acceptable; it must be replaced with a working relay.

Let's play DIY

If the control circuit turns out to be serviceable, then it is necessary to check the start-up relay. To do this, you need to remove the cover, having previously drilled out the aluminum rivets (after repairs during assembly, the cover must be secured with M3 screws and nuts).

In some models of domestic refrigerators, the cover of the start-up relay, as one of the vulnerable blocks, is secured with latches. In order to open it, you just need to bend these latches at the base of the relay with a screwdriver.

For most start-protective relays, the device corresponds schematic designation in Figure 5. The most common occurrences are burnout of contact pair 1-2, jamming of core 5 in the coil, breakage of rod 3 and jamming of the spring. To eliminate these malfunctions, first of all, you need to remove coil 4 (it is usually secured with latches). It is necessary to remove core 5 and contacts 2 from it (they are removed together with rod 3). After this, you need to thoroughly clean it all from dirt, for example, with a clean cloth soaked in alcohol. If necessary, core 5 will need to be lightly cleaned with a file or sandpaper so that it can freely enter the coil channel. Be sure to clean the working surfaces of contacts 1 and 2 with sandpaper.

A common cause of failure of the start-up relay is the breakdown of rod 3.

As a rule, the original rod is made of plastic, but it can be replaced with a homemade rod made from a 2.5x35 mm nail. The metal rod in the relay, instead of a plastic one, works long and reliably. Figure 6 shows the dimensions of rod 3 for the most common start-up protection relay type RTK-X (M) or its equivalent. For any other type of relay, the dimensions can be determined on site.

After this, the relay will need to be assembled in the reverse order, put in place, secured and connected to the underwater wires.

If the cause of the malfunction was oxidized contacts 1 and 2, and after a short time of operation, after you cleaned them, they again oxidized and burned, then you need to contact a specialist for a more in-depth repair, since the reasons for this behavior of the contacts may be in disruption of the entire operation electrical circuit refrigerator.

Last in order - not last in importance

Another malfunction, which is also quite common, is the burnout of heater R2 in the thermal protection relay. This can be easily determined using a tester with the cover of the start-up relay removed. If this is the fault, the start-up relay must be replaced with a new one.