home · Installation · Mine wells drinking underground horizon. What is a mine well? Do-it-yourself construction of mine wells

Mine wells drinking underground horizon. What is a mine well? Do-it-yourself construction of mine wells

To organize water supply on a dacha or cottage plot in the absence of central system For water supply, underground sources are used, which have a number of advantages compared to open reservoirs. And the main one is the high quality of water, which undergoes natural filtration through the soil, and is therefore suitable for consumption and for household needs.

According to the degree of purification and quality of water, underground sources are divided into:

  • soil (formed in the surface soil layer through precipitation; cannot be considered as a permanent source of water supply);
  • soil (similar in quality and composition to soil water, but with greater depth; can be used for household needs, and also partially for drinking purposes, subject to thorough cleaning);
  • interlayer (considered the purest natural water, located between several waterproof layers of soil; it is most suitable for consumption and for household needs.).

Arrangement on plot of land a mine well will allow you to regularly receive clean artesian water.

What is a shaft well?

Mine well Today it is one of the most common installations on the site. Proper installation and operation allow you to obtain water of excellent quality and taste. With proper installation, a well of this type can be used for a very long time without experiencing any difficulties.

How to choose the right place to install a mine well

It is important to thoroughly study the land before installing a well.

It is recommended to conduct your own observations in summer and spring and determine the place where the least accumulation of melt and rain water occurs. This, in principle, is one of the main criteria for equipping a well. An equally important indicator is the absence of sources of pollution near the future structure. The object must be removed from any building (commercial or residential) at a distance of at least twenty meters.

How to choose a place for a future well according to the “hints” of nature?

To reduce labor costs and time for constructing a mine well, you should choose a place with minimal groundwater. And nature itself will help you find this place. Firstly, these places have the most lush and vibrant vegetation. Secondly, pay attention to the plants growing in the area. Where there are moisture-loving plants (horsetail, sorrel), as well as constant swarms of mosquitoes and midges, there are deposits of the best water.

How to arrange a mine well on a plot of land?

A shaft well, the construction of which can take at least several days, or even weeks, is used mainly to receive shallow water. Water enters through the walls of the well or through the bottom. This type of water supply can only be used for individual use.

There are several types of mine wells:

  • concrete (represents a monolithic structure);
  • stone (mostly made of natural stone);
  • reinforced concrete (factory reinforced concrete rings are used for construction);
  • wood.

If the diameter of the well is small, then it is best to consider the construction of a prefabricated structure from reinforced concrete rings. This is the simplest, most reliable design for installing a water supply system.

In order to prevent melt and rainwater from penetrating into the well, its walls should be made of waterproof materials. The cheapest option would be to install a clay castle; a more expensive option would be to build walls made of brick or concrete.

The best, most reliable, hygienically clean, durable material is reinforced concrete. Today, the most popular method of making a well is to use ready-made ones made in production conditions, reinforced concrete rings.

If you want to make the walls completely sealed, without seams, then it is optimal to use monolithic reinforced concrete.

DIY mine well

A shaft well, the diagram of which can be developed by a specially invited specialist or independently, is considered the most the best option to date. Firstly, concrete is a strong, safe, durable material. Secondly, it is not difficult to make the design on your own.

During the installation of reinforced concrete rings, in order to prevent their shifting, the rings should be fastened to each other in 4-6 places using steel staples. At the fastening points, holes are left into which staples are inserted, the ends of which are bent and “sealed” with a cement solution.

The depth of the well affects the height of the concrete modules. For example, from 40 to 100 cm, the diameter will be from 80 to 100 cm. The wall thickness can be from 9 to 12 cm. If metal reinforcement is used during the installation of the well, then a smaller thickness of the rings is allowed (from 5 to 9 cm) .

Reinforcement of reinforced concrete rings is carried out using steel reinforcing wire. For reinforcing vertical rods, wire with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm is used; for reinforcing horizontal joints, the wire should be from 6 to 8 mm.

Each intersection of the frame requires fastening with wire, the thickness of which does not exceed 2 mm.

Installation of reinforced concrete rings requires digging a shaft, the diameter of which must be larger than the diameter of the ring itself. The walls must be strengthened before laying the first ring, and the bottom must be perfectly compacted and level. The ring descends strictly vertically. After installation, the outer side of the ring is covered with soil and compacted.

Regardless of the depth of the well and its diameter, the height must be at least 70 cm above ground level. It is imperative to build a clay castle around the building, the main purpose of which will be to retain surface (rain or melt) water and prevent its penetration into the well system.

A clay castle is made as follows: around the future well, soil is removed with a width of at least fifty centimeters and a depth of at least one hundred to one hundred and fifty centimeters. The resulting void should be filled with compacted clay.

A shaft well may have different depths, which largely depends on the level of groundwater. The minimum depth is at least 3 meters, the maximum can reach up to fifteen meters. Coarse sand, a layer of at least fifteen centimeters, must be placed at the bottom of the well; a thirty-centimeter layer of crushed stone must be laid on top of the sand.

The well should be buried at least one to two meters into the aquiferous soil.

During operation, the shaft well should be cleaned once or twice a year, and before the first start-up it is important to disinfect the system.

The shaft well is constructed using the lowering method. But if you have finance, you can use mechanized method when special equipment with a mechanism is brought to the site, which simultaneously drills and installs reinforced concrete rings with the subsequent formation of a shaft.

In order to increase the flow of water, it is recommended to install holes in the walls of the well.

If the well shaft is made of brick or natural stone, then inter-masonry gaps act as openings. In concrete wells, special slots are made along the entire perimeter of the walls.

If it is planned to install several wells on the site, then it is advisable to connect them together with siphon pipes and place them along one line.

The significant size of a mine well often allows the installation of full-fledged pumping equipment.

The Shakhtnaya Kolodeznaya train schedule currently contains 11 trains, the average travel time between these stations is 9 hours 11 m, and the number of stops on this route is 7. Trains running on the Shakhtnaya Kolodeznaya route most often stop at the stations Likhaya, Kamenskaya, Millerovo, Kuteynikovo, Zverevo, the schedule for which is also available on our website. Trains in this direction depart, for example, at 00.56, 01.20, 02.25 from the Shakhtnaya station, and they arrive at the final point Kolodeznaya at 09.00, 10.00, 11.33, respectively, local time. A large number of plying trains on the Shakhtnaya Kolodeznaya schedule indicate that this route is in demand among passengers. The train schedule Shakhtnaya - Kolodeznaya is designed so that you can travel in this direction at night, in the morning, or during the day.
You can buy tickets for the Shakhtnaya - Kolodeznaya train at the ticket office of the nearest station, as well as online.

Mine well

The mine well got its name because to construct it it is necessary to dig a shaft. As a rule, this design is preferred when the aquifer does not lie too deep - 10–20 m from the surface of the earth. Before we talk about the ways in which this can be done, it is necessary to know what parts a mine well consists of (Fig. 8). (However, we first note that traditionally the shaft well was made of wood, and a frame was made that had a square or rectangular shape. With the advent of new materials (brick, concrete), shaft wells began to be built round shape- in the form of a pipe, which is why such wells are called pipe wells. In this regard, we will consider the construction of the latter separately, although in principle these are also mine wells.)

The upper part of the well, which rises 600–800 mm above the ground, is the head. Its function is to protect the well from getting inside foreign objects, insects, precipitation and winter icing.

Figure 8. Construction of a shaft well: 1) bottom filter; 2) log house; 3) clay castle; 4) blind area; 5) cover; 6) aquifer; 7) waterproof; 8) sump; 9) water intake; 10) head

Therefore, a tightly fitting waterproof lid must be installed on top of it, which should be easily lifted, allowing access to water.

The longest vertical part, which is trimmed with some material to avoid shedding, is called barrel. It must be made as tight as possible to prevent the penetration of surface and soil water.

The lower part of the trunk where water accumulates is water intake. He may have different heights(from 70 cm to 1.2 m) in accordance with the amount of water required per day. At the bottom of this part of the well, in some cases they arrange bottom filter from gravel (crushed stone, pebbles, shungite, etc.) and sand (quartz or coarse river sand). In order for the filter to work efficiently, that is, to prevent cloudiness of the water when it is taken, it is made in two or three layers, but the total thickness of the bottom coating is determined by the water level in the well (there is no clear recommendation on this matter). Practice shows that if it is 1.5 m or more, then a layer 10–15 cm thick or more is laid (it is clear that the thicker the layer, the more effective the water filtration is), if the water level does not exceed 70 cm, then it is allowed make it thinner.

Stones after machining They cannot be used as a bottom filter, since they may have an oil film remaining after contact with the crushing mechanism. It is almost impossible to remove it from the surface of the water.

As a rule, a well bottom filter is reverse, i.e. sand (or very small pebbles) is used as the first layer, gravel with a medium-sized grain is used as the second layer, a large fraction is used as the third layer (in a direct filter everything is the other way around), and the size of the elements each subsequent layer should be 5–6 times larger than the previous one. Thanks to this device, suspended particles do not enter the water and it remains clean and transparent.

If everything is clear about the design of the bottom filter, then we must add that it is not always necessary. This depends on the soil that was removed when sinking the shaft and which ends up at the bottom of the open well. If the well is built in clay soil and has a bottom made of dense clay, then objectively a filter is not required, since the clay itself perfectly filters water; moreover, if the well is filled through a water vein, then the filter elements can crush the fontanelles, and the water will leave the well. If the bottom of the well is located in an area of ​​loose clay, then a layer of large pebbles 150 mm thick (the main thing is that it does not block the water source) will not allow suspended matter to pollute the water.

If the well is built in sandy soils, then laying a filter at the bottom is mandatory, otherwise the sand will make the water unsuitable for consumption, and the installed pump will very quickly clog and fail.

When constructing a well, it happens that you come across quicksand, characterized by an intense flow of water. In such cases, it is customary to place a wooden shield at the bottom of the well, having previously drilled holes in it, and sprinkle it with stones to prevent it from floating up. As a rule, oak or juniper, which are water-resistant, are used for the shield. In wells with low flow rates, water, especially at first, may acquire a specific color, taste and smell. You can get rid of this problem by pumping it out regularly. Typically, after 3–6 months, such wells begin to function normally.

From modern materials For the bottom filter, specialists from organizations involved in digging wells use geotextiles. This is an environmentally friendly fabric made from polypropylene fibers. This kind of membrane is laid or wrapped around a wooden board and pressed on top with shungite.

However, there are different opinions as to whether a bottom filter is needed at all; for example, there are craftsmen who claim that installing a bottom filter is impractical and this is just one of the techniques aimed at influencing a customer who is completely inexperienced in the well business (here also include walking around the area with frames and other mysterious manipulations to determine the location of an underground source); that in reality the stones, sand and shield are gradually covered with a clay layer, the thickness of which after a year is 3–15 cm, and after 5 years it reaches 40 cm; that this is one of the ways to increase the cost of the order. The fact that unscrupulous people can also be found in the well trade cannot be ruled out. Therefore, you should deal only with professionals who have an impeccable reputation, who will not only perform the work efficiently, but also give a guarantee for it. Moreover, in case of unforeseen circumstances, you can contact them and receive appropriate assistance.

Mine wells come in three types:

Imperfect (incomplete), in which the shaft does not reach the waterproof layer. Water enters such a well both through the bottom and through the side walls;

Perfect (complete). In it, the shaft rests on a water-resistant layer, and water enters exclusively through the side walls;

Perfect with a grenade launcher. If water flows into the well slowly, then an additional reservoir is installed in the lower part of the water intake to collect water - a grenade launcher (sump). In order for it to function normally, it is buried below the aquifer. The volume of the sump can be increased by giving it a tent shape.

To meet the water needs of a garden plot, a partial well is usually built. However, if the water level in it does not exceed 30–50 cm, it should be deepened. As a result, an incomplete well can turn into a full one. To avoid stagnation of water with all the ensuing unpleasant consequences, the amount of water in the well should approximately coincide with daily requirement in it. Then it will be constantly updated and the risk that the water will stagnate and go rotten will be reduced to zero.

So, let's look at what needs to be done to have your own water source on the site.

The construction of a wooden well involves several stages, and it is impossible to single out more or less important ones. You need to have an idea about each one to avoid mistakes.

1. Every mine well begins with digging a shaft. How quickly the work will proceed and what its outcome will be largely depends on the soil in which excavation work has to be carried out. Well builders (the so-called craftsmen who are professionally involved in the construction of wells) are faced with such types of soil as:

Hard soils. Their very name speaks of their high hardness. This group consists of dense limestones, granites, gneisses, feldspars, quartz, etc. It is very difficult and often completely impossible to excavate them manually. A special tool is required, since an ordinary crowbar or ax simply bounces off the rock without harming it; It is necessary to strictly follow safety precautions to avoid injury. As a rule, drilling a well is recommended for such soils, since building a well using the usual method is not economically profitable;

Medium soils (sandstone, limespar, dense shales, etc.). Digging a well in them is difficult, and if the water flows too intensely, then it is unrealistic;

Weak soils (slag, pebbles, gypsum, soft limestone, etc.). In the absence of pressure and a weak influx of water, digging a well in such soil can be quite easy and quick;

Soft soils (clay, loam). The connection between the particles that make up these soils is very weak, so when building a well you must act carefully to prevent a collapse;

Loose soils (sand, crushed stone, pebbles, gravel, etc.). They are characterized by the same features as the previous type of soil. When excavating them, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the shaft;

Quicksands. It is very difficult to develop these types of soil (the construction of a well in quicksand will be discussed in more detail later), especially those that are located in the interstratal layers under high pressure. In this case, it is necessary to resort to continuous pumping of water and installation of tongue-and-groove walls. (For such cases, developed special technologies freezing of the soil, but in the conditions of an individual site they are not applicable.)

2. Making and lowering the frame. Wells with wooden log house can be considered a classic, since in past centuries they were very widespread (once decks with a hollowed-out middle were installed in mines (hence the name of this structure)).

Nevertheless, they can still be found today. Therefore, let's talk about exactly how the process of their construction goes. However, before we talk about making a log house, it is important to choose the right wood for it, since not every type of wood is suitable for this. Wood for a well must meet following requirements and be:

Water resistant;

Straight-grained, that is, you need to take wood with straight grains (as opposed to twisted);

Dry. The statement that wet forest will also work, since it will get wet anyway, is untenable. The fact is that well-dried wood will gradually become saturated with moisture, swell and play the role of a natural sealant for crowns and corner joints, i.e., it will not allow soil water or pollution to penetrate into the well (of course, this is all relative, since absolute tightness can be achieved is impossible, and this also applies to brick and concrete, but it is necessary to strive for this);

Healthy, i.e. free from pests and diseases;

Does not impart a specific taste or smell to the water.

If, after installing a wooden shield at the bottom of the well, the taste of the water has deteriorated, the experience accumulated over the centuries-old practice of constructing wells can correct the situation. The water must be silvered, that is, thrown into the well for a while silver product(ladle, spoon, etc.).

All this is so important because only wood High Quality will last a long time and will not require immediate replacement, which, it should be noted, is not so easy to do, it will require time, reserve required material and funds if you have to involve professionals.

So, for the above and underwater parts of the log house, the most durable wood is suitable - oak: in the first it will last at least 25 years, in the second - even longer. However, it should be said that initially, due to the presence of tannins in the wood, the water in the well will have some taste at first. They will also give it a brownish color. If the water entering the well is not flowing, then it will need to be pumped out regularly until the extraneous quality disappears. More suitable bog oak, i.e. wood that has previously spent 2–3 years in water. In this case, the iron salts present in the water react with tannins, and the latter are oxidized. As a result, the pores of the wood are filled with iron oxide (in other words, rust) and sealed. As a result, bog oak acquires a special black color. Since bog oak is processed with great difficulty, experts recommend first making a frame, numbering the crowns, then disassembling it and keeping it in water (preferably running water) for the specified time.

Often, larch is used for a log house, which can withstand at least 20 years in the above-water part, and as long as oak in the underwater part. In addition, larch does not change the quality of water.

Pine has proven itself well, with a service life of at least 20 years in both the above- and underwater parts. Unlike previous species, pine is easy to process, so it is widely used for log houses. However, it must be dry so that the resinous substances in it do not spoil the taste of the water.

Alder and elm behave differently in dry and humid environments: in the first they can withstand up to 5 years, in the second - up to 20 years (therefore, a combined log house is often arranged: the lower part is made of elm or alder, and the upper part is made of pine or oak). Their presence does not change the taste of water.

Birch in the underwater part will last 10 years, in the surface part it will require replacement after 5 years. Willow and linden are even less durable (the latter can only be used in shallow wells, since it will be easier to replace the crowns here).

So, the material for the log house is logs with a diameter of 220–250 mm, as well as plates obtained by sawing logs into 2 parts with a thickness of 110–120 mm. If logs are used, then they must be cut to one edge, i.e. on one (inner) side. The better the processed plates and logs with inside, the less foreign substances (dust, mucus, etc.) settle on them, the longer they will last.

The shape of the log house can be different - square, rectangular, hexagonal or octagonal. But, as a rule, preference is given to the first and a well is built with a size of 700? 700 to 1500 ? 1500 mm, more often – 1000? 1000 mm (let us clarify that the water flow does not depend on this parameter).

The inner side of logs, bars or plates for a log house must be planed and not hewn, because smooth surface It is less contaminated, therefore, it does not rot or collapse longer.

Making a log house yourself is not an easy task, especially in the absence of the appropriate skills. In this case, it is necessary to own an ax and other carpentry tools, and be able to correctly make corner joints, which, as you know, may or may not have a remainder. In the first case, this method of cutting is called “in the oblo” (“in the corner”, “in the bowl”) and requires an allowance of 400–500 mm, in the second - “in the paw” with an allowance of 200–250 mm. The first method is rarely used, since a log house made in this way requires more material and volume earthworks increases significantly.

The second method is more technologically advanced. It is performed with or without a root spine (Fig. 9), the size of which should be one third of the width and length of the paw. The place for it is close to the inner corner. Spikes parameters: height – 100 mm, thickness – 30–40 mm, width – 50–70 mm.

Figure 9. Conjugation of the corners of the log house: a) “in the paw”; b) “in the paw” with a root thorn; c) crown

The main tenons in the corners are often supplemented with insert tenons 100 mm high - dowels - made of oak wood. They must be inserted on each crown of at least 2-3 pieces, located at a distance of 500 mm from one another. For greater reliability, they are placed in a checkerboard pattern, that is, if two spikes are placed on one log (bar, plate), then three on the next.

The root tenon is often replaced with an oblique one or in the form of a “swallow tail” (Fig. 10). The latter is the most preferable because it does not allow the crowns to move relative to each other, but in execution it is much more complicated than the first.

Figure 10. Types of spines: a) oblique; b) dovetail

To avoid problems when lowering the log house into the shaft, it is carried out on the surface, while constantly monitoring its verticality using a plumb line and horizontality using a building level and eliminating the slightest defects if they are detected. For convenience, the lower crowns, as the log house reaches a sufficient height, are removed (put aside), leaving the upper two or three crowns, with which work continues. Number of crowns in each specific case strictly defined and depends on the depth of the well, the thickness or diameter of its constituent elements. For the lower crown (even better for the first two), logs of larger diameter or bars of greater thickness (50 mm or more) are selected than for the rest, since they will bear the maximum load. To make the crowns easier to tear up the soil, either knives made of angle steel are attached to them, or a bevel is made on the lower crown, covering it with sheet steel for strength.

Then each crown is marked with the corresponding Roman numeral, so as not to make a mistake during assembly, after which the crowns are disassembled and they begin to dig a shaft 3–6 m or more deep.

3. Design of the above-ground part of the well, including installation of a water intake mechanism. Since this can be done in different ways, we will discuss them separately, for now we will only outline the need for this as a stage in the construction of a well.

Despite the fact that wells are not a recent invention, there are not many ways in which this can be done. Let's look at them in order:

If we are talking about dense soils, which are not characterized by shedding of walls, then the easiest way is to use open method and dig a shaft to the appropriate depth, level the bottom (in this case, there is a need to pump out the water with a pump or simply remove it with a bucket), put a cover crown and continue to make the log house, planting the logs with a wooden hammer (so that the surface of the logs or plates does not wrinkle, blows are applied to the one placed on top laying), controlling the verticality of the log house in all corners and gradually rising up to the surface of the earth. The work is carried out by 1–2 people, and they are located on the outside of the log house;

If the soil is loose, then in order to avoid the collapse of the mine walls, they are strengthened wooden frames, which are removed to the surface as the log house is erected.

When water enters through the bottom, the seams between the crowns are filled from the outside with crumpled fatty clay, laying it flush with the logs. Having raised the frame by 5-6 crowns, install a bottom filter (if there is a need for this).

If water flows into the well not only from the bottom, but also from the side walls, then holes are made in the lower part of the frame, and there should be enough of them so that their height coincides with the water level in the well. Naturally, the holes are not covered with clay, but to filter water, the gap between the log house and the shaft wall is filled with gravel or crushed stone. The side filter layer must be at least 200 mm, and its height must exceed the water level by 100 mm.

This technology for constructing a well makes it possible to make bails, i.e. lengthen the ends of individual crowns by 300–500 mm. This can be done either in one crown or in two adjacent ones, which will only increase the strength of the log house. The bails will keep the crowns at the same level, preventing them from falling or rising. In addition, thanks to them it will be easier to replace rotten crowns and generally carry out other repair work. The interval at which pledges should be placed is 4–6 crowns.

It is also possible to set up deposits in loose soil, which is difficult to compact despite all efforts. To prevent the pledges from sagging, they are laid on large flat boulders, concrete slabs, and hardwood can also be used.

With the described method of constructing a well, the crowns can be installed either as an assembly, or individual elements can be omitted and the crown can be formed directly on site. After installing each crown, they check how vertical it is. To prevent distortions, the frame is fixed either from the side internal corners, or on the sides using two long boards that are nailed to the crowns.

After several crowns (3–5) take their place in the structure, the well workers, as mentioned above, treat the crowns with crumpled fat clay, and then all that remains is to backfill, for which the gap between the frame and the shaft wall is filled with clay in layers and compacted .

When constructing a well, no one is immune from various unforeseen situations, for example, the verticality of the log house may be disrupted. To eliminate such a defect, and this must be done, choose one of the possible options:

They beat the crowns with a barsik (wooden hammer), trying to straighten them;

Thick boards are laid on the crowns and loaded;

They pour soil under the side that deviates from the vertical, compact it and install bails.

During the alignment process, the crowns may move. To prevent such a development of events, the log house is fixed from the outside with spacers made of logs or plates, resting them on all sides against the walls of the penetration.

1. You can build a well using the lowering method, in which the frame is built up from above. As the soil in the open pit is dug up and brought to the surface, the frame settles under its own weight, that is, it sinks down. This method is in demand in cases where the mine depth is planned to be increased to 40 m or more.

To prevent friction of the log house against the walls of the shaft, which will create problems during work, lower crown do bigger size than the rest. In addition, you can use a lowering frame, which not only has a larger size than the crowns, but is also equipped with a sharp device (shoe), thanks to which the soil is easier to open and creates fewer obstacles in the way of the log house.

The frame of a well and a bathhouse have both common features, since they are made using the same methods, and differences. The main ones are that in the first case you cannot use insulating materials, since they quickly rot and spoil the taste of water, and treat the wood with antiseptics.

2. If the well is constructed in loose soils, then instead of a lowering frame, use wooden box without bottom with walls 1000 mm high. For its manufacture, boards with a thickness of 50 mm are suitable, but for very deep wells it must be increased to 70–80 mm. The walls of the box are connected with tenons, the sides are additionally secured with several steel strips. The size of the box coincides with the size of the frame, the main thing is that there is a little space between it and the wall of the shaft, ensuring easier sliding of this device.

The essence of the lowering method is that they first dig a shaft 3 m deep, while the excavated soil is stored at least 10 meters from the work site in order to eliminate its pressure on the soil and not provoke the collapse of the mine walls. Next, either the lowering frame or the first crown is installed on the leveled bottom, while controlling their horizontality, after which the remaining crowns are laid according to the numbering, hammered with a wooden hammer and the verticality of the frame is checked. Gradually, the log house is lifted and brought out 3 steps above the surface of the ground; the grooves are carefully sealed with crumpled fat clay from the outside, flush with the logs, and its surface is leveled. Since the lower crowns are wider than the others and protrude outward by 50 mm or more, the risk that the clay layer will crumble as the frame is lowered is eliminated.

Next, it is very important to prevent the crowns from moving and being separated from each other during the process of lowering the frame. For this purpose, it is fixed from the inside in the corners with thick boards, nailing them to each crown. In addition, it cannot be ruled out that top part the log house will not be pinched by the soil crumbling from the walls of the shaft, and its lower part will not come off as a result. If this happens, then racks are placed under the lower crowns, wedges are inserted, the top of the frame is freed from the ground, it is loaded and forced to fall onto the lower crowns. After removing the load, the walls of the shaft are strengthened with logs or boards.

To reduce the labor intensity of work on monitoring the log house, they resort to lowering it along guides (Fig. 11). To do this, thick boards - guides - are nailed to the corners from the outside to each crown. For greater reliability, middle guides are attached (subsequent crowns are laid between them). This together rigidly tightens the entire structure. After this, logs are placed close to the guides around the log house, and stakes with a diameter of 80–100 mm are driven into the corners they form and secured with staples. Along such a frame, the guides, together with the log house, go down without falling apart or losing their verticality. It is clear that it will not be possible to remove the guides after constructing the well, and if it is necessary to replace the crowns, they will have to be cut out, which will complicate the work somewhat.

Figure 11. Installation of guides: 1) angular; 2) average; 3) frame logs; 4) stakes; 5) staples

After all is completed preliminary preparation, begin to remove soil from under the log house, and the work is carried out inside it and usually by 1 person, since in a limited space it is difficult to use more. The main tool that a well worker uses is a shovel with a shortened handle and a crowbar (in addition, he will need a scoop or ladle, a bucket, and sometimes an ax).

It is necessary to remove soil correctly, trying not to increase the gap between the log house and the walls of the shaft, and at the same time by several crowns (usually three or four). They do this as follows:

A hole up to 600 mm deep is dug in the center of the log house, the soil is collected in a container and removed to the surface;

They gradually move from the middle to the crowns, dumping the earth into the hole, as a result of which the log house settles under own weight, squeezing the soil out from under itself, which crumbles into the prepared depression. All that remains is to fill the buckets with it and lift it up.

It would seem that it would be better to immediately fill the gap between the log house and the walls of the shaft with soil selected from under the crowns. This cannot be done so as not to create conditions for friction between them, which will only complicate the work.

The question of how best to extract soil to the surface of the earth deserves a separate discussion, especially since this is related to the safety of the person below. A barrel, bucket, or tub is used as a container, which must be so strong that it can withstand three times the load. Wooden containers must be secured with metal hoops.

Certain requirements are also imposed on the rope (it must be tarred, which will prevent it from rotting in damp conditions and breaking) or cable. The diameter of the first should be 30–45 mm, and the second – 15–20 mm. To grab containers, a steel hook with a diameter of 20 mm is attached to the rope or cable, the load capacity of which must be at least 500 kg. In addition, it is equipped with a strong and reliable clamp (carabiner), which will not allow the dishes with soil to slip and fall.

To extract the soil, and then the incoming water, you need to use the simplest device - a tripod (Fig. 12). You can buy it or make it yourself from three strong bars, deepening them into the ground and pulling them at the top. A block is attached to the tripod, through which a rope or cable is thrown, and a bucket or other container is attached to one of the ends.

Figure 12. Tripod equipped with a block

There is often a description of horizontal and vertical gates, with the help of which soil can be delivered to the surface, but professional diggers, as a rule, make do with a tripod, since it is easy to both mount and disassemble after use. But we will return to the construction of a horizontal gate, since it is one of the devices that allows you to lift not only soil when digging a mine, but also water from an already constructed well.

Sometimes the log frame freezes in place, which is possible in cases where it is jammed by the ground or if it collides with a large stone. If it is possible to remove the stone or chip off most of it, do so. It happens that it may be of such a size that it is impossible to do anything with it in a cramped mine, so the work on constructing the well ends there. When building a shallow well in dense soils, the frame, the crowns of which are built up from above, can be lowered by first hanging it on ropes.

It is fixed at a height of 50 cm to 1 m, and it does not interfere with deepening the shaft. In order for the ropes to securely hold the frame, they are brought at all angles so that the middle of the rope is at the corner, and the ends are screwed with 2-3 turns to the log frame, which is mounted above the shaft. Thanks to the friction that occurs between the logs and ropes, the log house is held in place. When it is necessary to lower it a little, the ends of the ropes on the turns are pulled off.

For the safety of this method, it is necessary to choose the right rope so that it can withstand a large load. To do this, you need to make a simple calculation, having first tested the rope to break in order to determine the force at which this moment occurs. Let's say this happened under a load of 1 ton. Next, you need to halve this force by introducing a safety factor of 0.5, and multiply by 8 - by the number of ends, i.e. 8? 0.5? 1 = 4 tons. Thus, the maximum weight of the log house should not exceed 4 tons.

The downward method of constructing a well is also used in cases where it is necessary to build it in poor aquifers. In order to have a supply of water, the lower part of the log house is made in the form of a tent (sump), which should be 500–800 mm wider than the upper part of the log house (this gives a certain advantage - the log house can be lowered down without any hindrance). The tent is made up to 2.5 m high, which greatly facilitates repair work when the need arises. The work is carried out as follows:

Dig a shaft up to 3 m deep;

Level the base;

The crowns of the tent are placed sequentially, knocking them down with a wooden hammer. At the same time, make sure that the last crown lies strictly horizontally;

They begin the construction of the log house.

Further actions do not differ from those already described above. Since there is a large gap between the tent and the walls of the shaft, the walls are reinforced with wooden shields and spacers are installed to prevent the soil from collapsing.

In cases where water enters from the walls, a small tent is built inside the tent, retreating from the walls of the first one by 200–300 mm. All elements of a small tent are prepared on the surface, then lowered into the shaft and assembled directly at the installation site. The resulting gap between the walls of the large and small tents, as the latter is erected, is filled with gravel (crushed stone, coarse sand) to a height of 1–1.5 m. The small tent should rise above the water level by 200–300 mm or can reach the lower crown of the log house, becoming its continuation.

There is another method of constructing a well, without which there will be no complete picture, although most often it is abandoned in favor of the technologies described above, which is due to the fact that bringing the crowns of a log house from below is the most labor-intensive and low-productivity method and for this reason is not very widespread. The fact is that when implementing it, in addition to the fact that it is necessary to dig up the soil under the log house, it is necessary to place logs under the log house; bring the racks under the crowns and, using levers and wedges, press them to the upper crown, and after removing the soil, repeat these operations again. After installing 3-5 crowns, the pledges are installed, the crowns are nailed to them, and this is repeated until the entire log house is completed. The lower crowns are placed without pledges, and the very last one is placed on linings and fixed with the help of oak wedges so as to press the last crown as tightly as possible to the frame. At the same time, 2 people work simultaneously in the cramped space of the mine.

If it is necessary to bypass an aquifer with poor-quality water, it is isolated using tongue-and-groove walls. They are driven into the ground, retreating from the log house, and the space between them is sealed with a clay castle.

When constructing wells, they are often faced with quicksand, which you need to be able to cope with, although it must be admitted that this is not at all simple and labor-intensive. The technology is as follows:

Prepare the log house;

Drilling is carried out;

They lower the frame down to the quicksand;

They install bails from two logs;

The frame is separated from the quicksand by a wall, mounting it on the inside of the well. For the wall, dry tongue-and-groove boards are selected (a groove is selected on one edge and a ridge on the other) 1.5–2 m long and 50–60 mm thick. The boards must be dry so that upon contact with water they become saturated with moisture, swell and become waterproof. In addition, they must be tightly fitted to each other and to the walls of the log house, for which spacer frames are used. To make the tongue-and-groove walls sink into the ground more easily, the lower ends are sharpened. They are driven into the ground by hitting the spacers placed on top so as not to deform the ends;

Install tongue and groove walls;

They continue to select the soil in the usual way and lower the frame (however, the walls can also play its role), the size of which decreases somewhat.

When digging a well, means of evacuation (a ladder, a rope with knots tied to it, a safety rope, etc.) must be in the mine during the entire period of work, so that the necessary assistance can be provided at any moment.

When water comes from the bottom of the well, a box is installed there, having drilled holes in it in advance. The components are poured into it reverse filter. If water fills the well through the side walls, then holes or windows are made in them and supplemented with a filter, for example, a gravel filter.

Like low-water-bearing soils, a tent can be made in quicksand, which can be easily lowered, since soil is washed over it. This makes the structure heavier and not only helps it move downwards, but also securely holds it in such moving soils as quicksand. There is one more plus: in such soils there is always running water, so you can use oak for a log house without fear that the wood will spoil the taste of the water.

Before we turn to the construction of other types of wells, it is necessary to pay attention safety precautions, which is relevant in all cases, regardless of the structures being constructed.

1. The first thing to do after the location for the well has been determined is to fence off the area of ​​the proposed construction.

2. Clear about 2-3 m of foreign objects around the mouth of the shaft so that nothing can fall into it.

3. Check the strength of ropes, ropes, cables, as well as containers that will need to be used to lift the soil to the surface, and devices for this, and this must be done daily before starting work.

4. Securely attach the rope to the tank, and a second rope (safety) will appear if the penetration depth is more than 6 m.

5. Before descending into the mine, you should check for the presence of harmful gases coming from the ground. This can be done by lowering a candle or kerosene lamp into it. Flame fluctuations, fading, color changes and other even the slightest signs should alert you. To eliminate accumulated gas, you can resort to in different ways, both ancient and modern:

Take an empty wooden tub, cover it with a thick cloth, lower it into the shaft for 15–20 minutes, and after lifting it, open it so that the gas accumulated in it comes out;

Tie a bunch of straw to a rope (its diameter should match the diameter of the tunnel) and, repeatedly lowering and raising it, ventilate the shaft. Finally, you need to lower a lighted candle into the barrel so that the remaining gas burns out;

Install a potbelly stove next to the shaft, attach a pipe to the ash pit, lower its other end into the well, and light the stove. Thanks to the natural draft that will arise, the gases will be removed. In this case, work can continue;

Ventilate the shaft by pumping out the air using powerful fan or a compressor, despite the fact that it is more convenient to work in a spacious shaft than in a narrow one, volumetric voids should not be allowed to appear behind the walls of the frame (rings), as this can provoke soil movement and collapse;

It is forbidden to descend into a mine without a construction helmet on your head and without having insurance and a partner remaining on the surface who can lift the worker if he becomes ill, if water breaks through, etc.;

If even a minor discomfort occurs (if you feel dizzy, your eyes begin to water, you cough or yawn, it becomes difficult to breathe, etc.), you must immediately notify your partner and leave the mine.

In conclusion, let’s summarize by noting the pros and cons of wooden wells. Among the first are the availability of material and the low cost of the project. Among the second are the following:

When constructing a well yourself, you must master the craft of a carpenter, although calling this a minus is a stretch;

The service life of a wooden well is much shorter compared to a brick or concrete one;

Over time, you will have to replace rotten crowns, which is quite labor-intensive.

From the book Country Crafts author Onishchenko Vladimir

Decorative well over a water tank Use tap water for watering a garden, washing a car or a terrace is a reprehensible and relatively expensive task. It is better for these purposes to install a tank underground to collect rainwater, and on top

From the book Modern outbuildings and site development author Nazarova Valentina Ivanovna

Well The well is installed on a shallow strip foundation from reinforced concrete(it is assumed that the well itself is dug and lined with concrete rings). The load-bearing structures are made of rounded logs? 160 mm. The roof is made of

From the book Wells. Design and maintenance author Lapshina Nina Nikolaevna

Choosing a place for a well Before you start constructing a well of any type, you need to choose a place for it. As a rule, an elevated place on the site is allocated for the well to eliminate the risk of surface runoff and flood water entering it. There are others

From the book Country plot from scratch author Shukhman Yuri Ilyich

Key well So, a well is a hydraulic structure intended for the extraction of groundwater, in the form of a vertical depression, with walls reinforced in one way or another, equipped with special mechanism to raise water to

From the author's book

Tube well The material for tube wells is: brick. The choice of brick must be approached very responsibly, since not every type is suitable for building a well. First of all, you should not use sand-lime brick, since it is no different

From the author's book

Modern bore well

From the author's book

Abyssinian well In cases where the soil on the site is formed by fairly soft rocks, there are no large stones, and the aquifer lies shallow (no more than 7 m, since the water rises due to a suction pump operating on the basis

From the author's book

5.5.2. Well, well... And the well under the window With the sky overturned. From a song performed by Y. Evdokimov Mine wells. Mine wells are reliable water intake structures, with the help of which groundwater is obtained from a depth of no more than 30 m. Water flow (productivity

When the groundwater level is up to 10 m, mine wells are built in which groundwater is used. If the level of these waters is closer than 5 m from the surface, the construction of a well is easier, but the water may not be clean enough.

Depending on the material used, wooden, concrete, brick and stone wells are distinguished. The shafts can be round with a diameter of 1-1.5 m or square. An increase in these dimensions has virtually no effect on the amount of water flowing into the well from the aquifer per unit time. This quantity determines the flow rate of the well.

A shaft well consists of a head, a shaft and a water intake part (Fig. 1-5-1). The head is a part of the well trunk, located 0.7-0.8 m above ground level. It must have a lid, a canopy and a device for extracting water (a bucket with a chain or rope connected to a collar, a pump, a “crane”, etc. . P.). To prevent contaminated water from seeping into the well from the surface, a clay castle 1-1.5 m deep and 0.5 m wide is made around it. Above the clay castle, a blind area is made of stone, crushed stone, concrete, etc. with a slope from the perimeter of the well . A closed hole is left in the well cover that is too tight to remove harmful gases.

Below the head, down to the water level, there is a shaft of the mine, which passes into the water intake part. Depending on the need for water and the thickness of the aquifer, this part may vary. When installing a well, you should proceed from the principle: the influx of water is equal to consumption, otherwise the water will either rot or there will not be enough of it. Water intake part in wells personal use usually immersed in the aquifer to no more than 0.7 m of its height. The depth from the water surface to the bottom of the well is maintained within 1-1.5 m. This is the minimum that ensures clear water during intake.

A well, the water receiving part of which does not reach the end of the aquifer, is called imperfect (Fig. 1-5-2). Water enters it through the bottom and walls of the water intake part. To increase the water supply, the water intake part is expanded to the outline of the tent. When water flow is higher, the well is built to be perfect. Its water intake part ends at the border with the water-resistant layer, so water enters only through the side walls of the water intake part. The water supply increases if you go deeper into the impermeable layer. A grenade launcher or sump appears. Recesses into the waterproof layer are not required if the water intake part is made in the form of a tent.

For water entering through the bottom of the water intake, a filter is required, which consists of a layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone or gravel.

The aquifer at the bottom of the inlet may be too liquid. In this case, the bottom is lined with boards with holes or gaps are left between the boards and sand and gravel (crushed stone) are poured on top.

It is more difficult to install a filter near the side walls. Therefore, homemade wells, as a rule, are imperfect with water flowing only through the bottom.

Wooden wells. The most suitable tree species for making a well frame are oak, larch, elm, and alder. The cross-section of the log house is chosen from 0.7x0.7 m to 1.5x1.5 m. The log house is made from solid logs with a diameter of 0.15-0.20 m. Logs of larger diameter are sawn into plates. The crowns of the log house in the corners are connected “into a paw” and fastened with wooden spikes. The crowns are motionless between themselves thanks to steel brackets and dowels. Sometimes the log house is covered with boards.

With a well depth of 5-6 m and relatively strong soil, they immediately reach the bottom, temporarily strengthening the walls against collapse. The frame is laid on the bottom and a log house is erected on it. If the aquifer is very liquid, logs are placed at the bottom of the shaft and boards are sewn to them with a gap for the passage of water. The crowns of the log house are mounted on this floor.

It is better to make a three-layer filter. Incoming components are washed well before installation. The bottom layer is prepared from medium-grained sand with a diameter of 0.2-0.5 mm, the middle layer from grains of sand with a diameter of 1-2 mm, the top layer from crushed stone or gravel with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The minimum filter thickness is 0.3-0.5 m. Another combination of layers is possible, but the particles of the overlying layer should always be larger.
Wells with a depth of more than 6 m are built in two ways: by building up the frame from above and by building up from below. In the first method, they dig a shaft several meters deep. Pre-prepared crowns of the log house are installed in it so that three or four of them, counting vertically, protrude above ground level. All crowns are mounted strictly plumb and fastened with staples and dowels. Then select 0.2-0.3 m of soil just under the middle of each log of the lower crown of the log house. Instead of the removed soil, wedge-shaped supports are installed. Then they undermine the soil at the corners of the lower crown, remove it from the shaft and gradually knock out the wedges so that the frame gradually lowers until 1-2 protruding crowns disappear in the shaft. New crowns are grown above the ground, and the process is repeated. Cases cannot be ruled out when the frame tilts when lowered. In this case, it is set at raised corners. Sometimes, for this purpose, a platform is built on the upper crown and a weight is placed on the protruding corners, which makes it easier to level the frame. Often, in order to lower the frame evenly, its lower crown is slightly expanded and edged around the perimeter with a steel angle, which cuts off the walls of the shaft as it moves.

If a log house is stuck tightly even under the influence of a load of hundreds of kilograms, then this log house is built up from below. This method is also suitable for constructing deep wells. In this case, part of the log house is lowered into the shaft in the manner described above. After the upper half of the frame is installed, work continues under the frame. Under the log house, they undermine the soil to the thickness of the crown, which is lowered to the bottom in disassembled form. In order for the crowns to fit tightly to each other and during the process of assembling the log house from below there are no distortions and slips, the ends of two parallel logs of the first crown should protrude beyond the dimensions of the crown by 0.4-0.5 m. For elongated ends in the walls of the shaft, they are pulled out in the horizontal direction special nests - stoves. For each log, one of the nests should have a beveled top and a depth of approximately 0.8-1 m. Then the log will fit into the opposite nest with a depth of 0.4-0.5 m without additional demolition.

These logs must have cuttings for connecting short transverse logs “to the paw”. The original crown will be carried as if on a stretcher by the above-located log house. The next crown can now be completely assembled at the bottom, lifted and secured with staples and dowels to the original one. The more friable the soil, the more often there should be original crowns, which will ensure the durability of the log house. If the soil is too loose, a different well design is chosen.

The aquifer may be a slurry consisting of sand and water, quicksand that can only be overcome with the help of a sheet piling box. This box is made from boards 50 mm thick (fifty). The boards are placed vertically and joined in quarters (Fig. 1-5-3). Bottom edges the boards are sharpened. The dimensions of the box should allow it to slide along the internal walls of the log house. In order for the box to crash into the quicksand, pressure must be applied to it using a wedge or a load, a jack, etc. The soil that accumulates inside the box is removed by lifting it up.

On highly liquefied quicksand, use a bottom box (Fig. 1-5-4), at the bottom of which there is a hole with a lid. The base of the box along the contour is equipped cutting edge, upholstered with a corner or steel strip. The bottom box is buried in the same way as a tongue and groove box. After filling, move the lid, lower the tub on top and transfer the contents of the box into it. As the box is lowered, the frame is laid down behind it. The service life of the log house (and therefore the well) is 10-15 years.

Concrete wells more durable and hygienic than wooden ones. Their service life is about 25 years. The walls of the concrete well shaft are made monolithic or assembled from rings. Reinforced concrete - concrete reinforced with steel reinforcement further increases the durability of the well. Concrete wells are made from rings with a diameter of 0.8-1.0 m, a height of 0.5-1 m, with a thickness of concrete rings of 0.09-0.12 m, reinforced concrete - 0.05-0.08 m. In this case, a crane is used or a tripod. In some cases, rings are prepared directly above the well shaft using formwork, which is two split rings coaxially installed in each other. The gap between the rings is filled concrete mixture. If before this you place steel wire rings in the gap, separated vertically by scraps of wire, you can get reinforced concrete.

The concrete mixture is prepared from cement, crushed stone or gravel, sand and water. Considering that the rings will be constantly in water, only Portland cement of at least grade 400 should be used for the mixture. In order for the concrete to be dense and have as few pores as possible, materials of different grain sizes are used as filler in such a ratio that after mixing the sand fills all the voids between crushed stone or gravel. For almost one volumetric part of cement, take 2-3 parts of sand and four parts of fine gravel. The water-cement ratio, that is, the ratio of the mass of water to the mass of cement, should be in the range of 0.5-0.7. Large quantity water will reduce the strength of concrete. To check the quality of concrete, you should squeeze a little of the finished mixture in your palm. There should be a lump on the palm without swelling and a little bit of cement milk.

Mix the dry composition manually with a shovel in a shallow and wide container until a homogeneous mass is achieved. For this purpose, troughs made of galvanized steel sheet or special containers are used. It is important that the container is raised approximately to the height home desk and slightly tilted. Then it is easier to pour the mixture into the formwork.

Before pouring into a mixing container, all elements of the mixture are cleaned of clay, grass, earth, etc. Anything foreign reduces the strength of concrete. Cement designed for long-term storage, placed in plastic bags and sealed. Concrete is placed in formwork in layers 9-12 cm thick and compacted until laitance is released. After filling the formwork, the concrete is protected from the sun and, in hot weather, watered daily with cold water for a week.

The construction of a well from concrete and reinforced concrete rings is carried out using the lowering method. The lower ring at the base is made with an extension and a circular steel knife. It can be bent from a steel strip 3-6 mm thick and the ends riveted. At the upper annular edge of the knife, several holes are drilled around the circumference in diametric directions. Wire scraps are threaded through them. Place the knife into the formwork before pouring so that finished ring it protruded by 4-8 cm. The wire should get into the fill and fix the knife on the ring. The walls of the well are built up in the same sequence as in wooden ones. The correct placement of the first ring is checked with a level (spirit level), the rest - with a plumb line. To lower the rings evenly, use a technique similar to that described above for wooden wells. Take four supports (jacks are better, bricks are worse), dig up the soil under the lower ring from four diametrically opposite sides and place supports of the same height there. Remove the soil between the supports. The rings are lowered behind the jacks that are lowered evenly. Under solid supports, soil is repeatedly dug and removed. There are many ways to attach rings to each other. To secure them using steel brackets, rods are inserted into the formwork before pouring concrete. The rods of the finished ring are knocked out. The result is holes for staples. The rings can also be cast so that the edges of each upper row fall into the grooves of the underlying one. The seams between the rings are sealed with cement mortar containing one part cement and three parts sand. When the brand of cement is unknown, take one part of cement and two parts of sand. The water intake part of the well is fundamentally the same as that of a wooden well. For individual use, it is preferable to build an imperfect well with water entering through a bottom filter. However, with significant water consumption, side holes are also made. In this case, use as a filter porous concrete. To make it, take 5-7 parts of gravel with a particle diameter of 15-20 mm per one part of cement. Water-cement ratio 0.3-0.4. The absence of fine-grained sand in the mixture makes the concrete porous and low-strength. Therefore, windows are left in rings made of dense concrete, which are later filled with porous concrete. Sometimes narrow segments 10-15 cm high are made from it. Special filters can also be inserted into the windows of rings made of dense concrete.

Reinforced concrete rings with a diameter and height of 1 m, a thickness of 5 cm, weigh about 380 kg. Concrete rings of the same diameter and height have greater thickness and mass. Therefore, in order to cope with the rings without lifting means, they should be made of a smaller height.

This difficulty disappears when building a well from monolithic concrete. To do this, two formworks are built concentrically, between which concrete is poured. If the well is deep, the already hardened walls are laid down, the formwork is built up and concrete is poured again. Each section of the shaft hardens for no more than seventy days.

Stone and brick wells have a long service life, but their construction is very labor-intensive. For the walls, dense natural stone or red, well-burnt brick without cracks is used. Wells are often cylindrical in shape with internal diameter 0.75-1 m, wall thickness - 1-2 bricks, that is, at least 0.25 m, from rubble - at least - 0.35 m. In shallow wells, the walls are laid starting from the bottom. At significant depths, the lowering method is used. In this case, a knife made of steel strip is attached to the lower ring of wood (preferably oak) along the contour, which will make lowering the masonry easier. For the same purpose, the ring is made several centimeters in diameter wider than the outer size of the masonry. She is being taken to cement mortar 1:3. The inside of the masonry is plastered with cement mortar 1:2. The outside walls of the masonry are also plastered or coated with clay.

The masonry is protected from cracking by steel rods bent at the ends. 4-6 rods are evenly distributed around the circumference of the masonry; in height they should overlap the above and underlying rows of rods by 15-25 cm. During the laying process they are completely sealed.

Wells are usually built imperfectly with water flowing through a bottom filter.

When constructing wells, safety regulations are observed. The walls of a shaft with a depth of more than 1.5 m must be reinforced with boards that fit tightly to the ground. An area with a diameter of at least 3 m around the well is cleared of objects that could fall into the shaft. Details lifting devices check before starting work. Lowered objects are firmly secured. It is advisable to wear a helmet in the mine.

Before people descend into the mine, they check for the presence of gases in it. To do this, a candle is lowered into the shaft in a bucket on a rope. If it goes out, the mine must be ventilated by raising and lowering the bucket several times. If the candle goes out again, use a fan.

3.3.1. Mine wells are designed to obtain groundwater from the first free-flowing aquifer from the surface. Such wells are a round or square shaft

shapes and consist of a head, a trunk and a water intake part.

If it is impossible to maintain this distance, the location of water intake structures in each specific case is agreed with the center of state sanitary and epidemiological surveillance.

3.3.2. The head (the above-ground part of the well) serves to protect the shaft from clogging and pollution, as well as for observation, water lifting, water intake and must be at least 0.7 - 0.8 meters above the ground surface.

3.3.3. The well head must have a lid or a reinforced concrete ceiling with a hatch, also closed with a lid. The top of the head is covered with a canopy or placed in a booth.

3.3.4. Along the perimeter of the well head there should be a “castle” made of well-pressed and thoroughly compacted clay or rich loam with a depth of 2 meters and a width of 1 meter, as well as a blind area of ​​stone, brick, concrete or asphalt with a radius of at least 2 meters with a slope of 0.1 meters from the well towards the ditch (tray). There should be a fence around the well, and a bench for buckets should be placed near the well.

3.3.5. The shaft (shaft) serves for the passage of water-lifting devices (buckets, buckets, scoops, etc.), and also, in some cases, for placing water-lifting mechanisms. The walls of the shaft must be dense, well insulating the well from the penetration of surface runoff, as well as high water.

3.3.6. For lining the walls of a well, concrete or reinforced concrete rings are primarily recommended. In their absence, the use of stone, brick, and wood is allowed. The stone (brick) for lining the walls of the well must be strong, without cracks, non-staining water and laid in the same way as concrete or reinforced concrete rings on cement mortar (high-grade cement that does not contain impurities).

3.3.7. When constructing log houses, certain types of wood must be used in the form of logs or beams: for the crowns of the surface part of the log house - spruce or pine, for the water intake part of the log house - larch, alder, elm, oak. The timber must be of good quality, cleared of bark, straight, healthy, without deep cracks and wormholes, not infected with fungus, harvested 5 to 6 months in advance.

3.3.8. The water intake part of the well serves for the influx and accumulation of groundwater. It should be buried in the aquifer to better open the formation and increase the flow rate. To ensure a large flow of water into the well Bottom part its walls may have holes or be arranged in the form of a tent.

3.3.9. To prevent soil from bulging out from the bottom of the well by rising groundwater flows, the appearance of turbidity in the water and to facilitate cleaning, a return filter should be placed at the bottom of the well.

3.3.10. To descend into the well during repairs and cleaning, cast iron brackets must be embedded in its walls, which are staggered at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

3.3.11. Water is lifted from mine wells using various devices and mechanisms. The most acceptable from a hygienic point of view is the use of pumps of various designs (manual and electric). If it is not possible to equip a well with a pump, it is permissible to install a gate with one or two handles, a gate with a wheel for one or two buckets, a “crane” with a public, firmly attached bucket, etc. The size of the bucket should approximately correspond to the volume of the bucket so that water can be poured from it into the buckets did not present any difficulties.