home · Tool · Heat-saving plaster for exterior use. Thermal insulating plaster. Types of mixtures based on sawdust, perlite or foam granules, ready-made compositions. Features of the work. How to make warm plaster with your own hands

Heat-saving plaster for exterior use. Thermal insulating plaster. Types of mixtures based on sawdust, perlite or foam granules, ready-made compositions. Features of the work. How to make warm plaster with your own hands

Despite the emergence of a sufficient number of gypsum analogues, cement plaster mixture remains one of the most popular materials for interior and exterior finishing. With a lot of advantages cement-sand plaster high thermal conductivity, based on the minimum number of air pores in the solidified mass. A variety called warm plaster has lower thermal conductivity and is resistant to cracking, so it is considered the best option for those who want to level the walls and insulate them at the same time. Users of the FORUMHOUSE portal actively use plasters with reduced thermal conductivity and share their experience with everyone.

Concept

A typical plaster mixture - cement binder and sand, gives a coating with a density of about 1800 kg/mᶟ and a thermal conductivity of about 1.2 W/(m*C). Warm plaster (WP) consists of a cement binder and filler, which forms air pores in the monolith, reducing density and thermal conductivity. If cement is usually used as a binder, then there is a wide choice of fillers:

  • Perlite is obsidian hydroxide, formed when lava hardened on the ground comes into contact with water. The nuclei resulting from hydration resemble rounded pearls - pearls, for which the breed got its name. It is characterized by high porosity (up to 40%) and the ability to absorb liquid in quantities exceeding its own weight (up to 400%). To prepare plaster, expanded perlite (perlite sand) is usually used - small granules of a white or light gray hue.
  • Vermiculite is one of the minerals of the hydromica group, which is small layered flakes of brown-golden color. Like perlite, when heated it can swell, filling with air. In this form it is used in various industries, including construction, for the preparation of lightweight concrete and warm plaster mixtures.

  • Expanded clay chips - produced from special types of low-melting clays, by firing in rotating at a certain angle melting furnaces. This is a fine fraction with a granule size of up to 5 mm, sometimes called expanded clay sand. It is characterized by lightness, airiness, minimal thermal conductivity and the round shape of the granules.

  • Sawdust is a waste product from the wood industry; small fractions are used for plasters, providing porosity to the composition, but not disturbing its structure and maintaining the homogeneity of the mass.

  • EPS - expanded polystyrene granules are used not only for the manufacture of slab or bulk insulation, but also as a binder in ready-made or home-made plaster mixtures. If perlite and vermiculite are natural substances, EPS is the result of the chemical industry and is inferior to its natural “colleagues” in durability, biological and fire resistance. However, it copes with its assigned functions quite well - it makes the plaster porous and reduces its thermal conductivity.

In addition to the binder, filler and liquid, various modifiers are added to the plaster - to increase the elasticity of the mixture, to increase the service life, to prevent the formation of cracks during drying. Manufacturers of dry mixes add various branded water repellents and plasticizers. When preparing homemade plaster, microfiber, ready-made modifiers sold in construction stores, various detergents (liquid soap, dishwashing liquid) or PVA glue are introduced.

The coating obtained by applying warm plaster composition, is not inferior to traditional cement-sand analogs in terms of adhesion to the base (adheres well to the wall) and strength.

Any finish can be applied to it decorative coating. This article will help you choose the right one. At the same time, it has low thermal conductivity - on average, 0.13 - 0.9 W/(m*C), and a density from 200 to 800 kg/mᶟ (depending on the filler). When using warm plaster, the load on the base is significantly reduced, and it is easier to work with the solution - per 1 m² of wall you will need to “master” less weight of the material at all stages.

Private developers use both the most affordable TS - based on sawdust, as well as perlite or with PPS granules. Vermiculite compositions are rare due to high cost filler - it is several times more expensive than perlite. And not every craftsman who has chosen a warm variety as plaster can make friends with ready-made mixtures from well-known brands. This is explained, again, by cost - buying a ready-made dry mixture will raise the price for square meter two to three times. If you buy components separately, these indicators are reduced to a level accessible to almost everyone interested. Calculations from our users confirm the theory.

Sektor FORUMHOUSE Member

The price of factory-made warm plaster is astronomical, compared to a homemade mixture. There are approximately 25 bags per 1 mᶟ, weighing 23 kg each (for example, take BIRSST T-2). It turns out that a cube, or 575 kg, will cost 15,825 rubles. Material consumption: 7 - 8 kg of dry mixture per 1 m² - with a solution layer thickness of 10 mm, with a thickness of 4 cm, we get approximately 19 m², or 833 rubles per square.

How much a square of homemade mixture will cost is also calculated based on my own experience.

Yura52 Member of FORUMHOUSE

For 5 m² of 1.5 cm thick plaster it takes a bag of cement, three bags of perlite and a plasticizer, if C3, then inexpensive. Total, approximately 500 rubles - 100 rubles per square. When the layer is increased to 3-4 cm, it still turns out much cheaper than the factory one.

In many ways, the choice between a purchased compound and a home-made one depends on the expected volume of work - a room of several dozen square meters can be plastered with a factory-made mixture, the difference is noticeable, but not fundamental. When we are talking about hundreds of square meters or tens of cubic meters, the savings cover both the time spent on experiments with proportions and any other costs.

Preparation of the solution

Typical cement to perlite ratios range from 1/3 to 1/7.

Such a large spread is explained by the versatility of the mixture - it is used for interior and exterior decoration of the most different reasons. The ability for adhesion and other physical and technical characteristics of surfaces differ, and such parameters as humidity and temperature in each specific case- ours. The skill of the performer also plays a role: if a pro is able to work out almost any batch, then a beginner, faced with a complex consistency, will most likely “screw up” the solution.

In addition to perlite, sand, lime, and microfiber can be added to the mix to increase the strength of the resulting surface and reduce the likelihood of cracking. When using a ready-made plasticizer, the proportions are maintained according to the instructions; if PVA is used, for each liter of mixing liquid - 50 ml of glue. To prevent the solution from flowing over the surface, its consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Achieving ideal proportions only based on standard recipes is almost impossible. Adhering to the basic recommendations, you will have to try different “variations on a theme” until you find the most suitable one for a particular situation.

Motorist believes that to obtain warm plaster it is enough to simply replace the proportion of sand, in whole or in part, with perlite. Using the example of his friend, he was convinced of the effectiveness of a solution consisting of part cement, two parts sand and two perlite; the friend did not use foaming agents; the plaster lay down normally and holds up perfectly. The only difference between a regular and warm solution is that the latter needs to be mixed dryer; after a few minutes, the filler will release the absorbed moisture and the consistency will be “what the doctor ordered.”

Village and people Member of FORUMHOUSE

I did the plastering 2 years ago, we don’t live in the house yet, nothing is cracked, there is no heating in winter. The ratio of perlite M-75 and cement M 500 by volume was 7:1, plus fiberglass (about 10-12), plus the foaming agent Tsemaplast (lime substitute). Fiber fiber was thrown according to the volume according to the instructions, and cemaplast - in proportion to the cement.

Samurai Jack I chose warm plaster and decided to do it myself, experimentally selecting a composition suitable for my conditions. The ratio of cement and perlite in the range from 1/4 to 1/8 by volume is required slaked lime at the rate of 0.5 parts by weight of cement. Also adding polypropylene fiber to the plaster, but only polypropylene, since glass fiber is in alkaline environment cement is destroyed. Dishwashing detergents performed well as a foaming agent - approximately 0.1% of the weight of cement.

Sector in practice I received the following costs:

  • Perlite – 60 liter bag;
  • Cement – ​​19 kg;
  • Water – 19 liters;
  • Fiber - according to instructions.

Among the three perlite fractions sold, Sektor advises taking medium-sized granules (pictured in the center).

The solution is mixed in a concrete mixer or manually, but using a construction mixer, the dry components are mixed together, fiber and liquid additives are mixed into water. The resulting liquid is added to the dry mixture and mixed until smooth. After solidification, the solution forms a large number of air pores

Application

Working with a solution based on perlite is practically no different from the technology of plastering CPS - the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, and, if necessary, primed with impregnations deep penetration, moisten before applying the solution. It is not recommended to try to sketch and completely level a layer more than 1.5-2 cm thick in one approach. It is better to divide the process into two stages, first sketching a rough layer, strengthening the beacons on it, and then sketching the finishing layer and leveling it along the beacons.

Construction of a warm and comfortable country house requires solving often very complex and contradictory problems. For example, to save on materials and, at the same time, not to increase your costs in the future when operating the house, to make the house warm and comfortable. Warm plaster can help in solving this problem.

Some unusual name accurately reflects the purpose of the material. At its core it is mortar, which has thermal insulation properties. It acquires them through the use of materials with low thermal conductivity. The composition of warm plaster is usually as follows:

  • porous filler – polystyrene foam granules, perlite sand, foam glass (expanded glass), etc.;
  • a binder mixture, which is usually cement, lime, gypsum and their mixtures;
  • polymer additives - plasticizers, water-repellents, air-releasing agents, etc.

Familiarization with the composition of warm plaster allows you to understand what its good properties are based on. thermal insulation properties. This is due to the presence of a porous filler, literally filled with numerous air bubbles. And it is known to be a good heat insulator. So it turns out that after applying warm plaster to the wall, it appears to be protected by an additional layer of heat insulator.

Properties of thermal insulation plaster

The advantages of warm plaster are not limited to thermal insulation. The composition of the mixture itself suggests what possibilities this material contains.

  1. Fire safety. Warm plaster with mineral filler(perlite, vermiculite, foam glass) are not flammable at all and belong to the NG class according to the classification system. The exception is heat-insulating plaster based on expanded polystyrene foam; it is flammable and belongs to group G1.
  2. Ecological cleanliness. Traditional insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam) emit harmful substances, which does not happen with warm plaster.
  3. Multifunctionality. Except thermal insulation coating warm plaster can serve as a material for decorative finishing and used as a finishing coat. At the same time, it can be used to level surfaces.
  4. Thermal insulation characteristics. It should be noted that heat-insulating plaster is not inferior in its properties to traditional materials. A layer of such plaster 5 cm thick is equivalent to laying two bricks or two to four centimeters of polystyrene foam.
  5. Physical characteristics. Thermal insulating plaster is much lighter than traditional plaster and during installation has virtually no additional impact on the foundation and walls. In addition, it has high adhesion to all wall materials.
  6. Practical use of warm plaster– it is easy to work with and does not require special qualifications.

About fillers

The properties of heat-insulating plaster are largely determined by the type of filler. The filler can be:

  1. Sawdust. When using them, the result is the cheapest, but least efficient look warm plaster.
  2. Expanded polystyrene. Foamed polystyrene has good sound and heat insulation characteristics and good adhesion. But this flammable material and at the same time it releases toxic substances.
  3. Perlite is a material obtained from volcanic glass (obsidian) heated to 1100°C. At this temperature, obsidian begins to swell, becomes porous, and a large amount of air bubbles, as a result of which the material acquires thermal insulation properties. Thanks to them, it finds application in various materials as an additive that provides these characteristics. One of the options for use is called perlite plaster.
    The disadvantage of perlite is considered to be its high hygroscopicity, which requires the use additional materials to protect it during finishing.
  4. Vermiculite. A mineral belonging to the mica group (the so-called intumescent mica). Materials based on it can withstand temperatures from minus 260 to plus 1200 degrees Celsius. When fired, it increases significantly in volume (up to 50 times), resulting in scaly particles. In its properties, vermiculite is similar to perlite; it is absolutely non-flammable and non-toxic.
    The disadvantages of a mixture in which vermiculite is used as a filler are the same as those of perlite plaster - it is highly hygroscopic, which requires additional costs for protection.
  5. Foam glass. It's foamed quartz sand, the structure of which includes closed glass cells. Foam glass is a waterproof and fireproof material, very durable and does not shrink, and does not require additional protection. However, heat-insulating plaster based on it is inferior in its characteristics to materials using perlite and vermiculite.

About application and protection

Warm plaster is used for interior and exterior work. As already mentioned, due to the porosity of the filler, air bubbles act as a kind of insulation. Moreover, warm plaster is usually used as additional element thermal protection, and allows you to save on heating costs winter time and air conditioning in the summer.

This means that insulating plaster will be applied in addition to the protection included in the design of the building. It is irrational to use it as the main defense. According to calculations with a thickness brick wall 51 cm insulating plaster should have a thickness of ten centimeters, with a smaller wall thickness - the thickness of the layer heat-insulating material there should be even more.

However, when using modern building materials (ceramic blocks, foam concrete), it is quite possible to reduce the required thickness of the plaster, since these materials, unlike brick, themselves have good heat-shielding characteristics. However, even in this case, warm plaster will be useful precisely as additional protection, increasing the overall thermal resistance of the building.

Options for obtaining thermal insulating plaster

For interior decoration, such material is convenient to use in places with complex configurations, as well as to increase overall thermal protection. By the way, it is quite possible to make a mixture for additional thermal protection yourself. Do-it-yourself warm plaster can be obtained in the following way:

  • it is necessary to mix three parts of sawdust and one part of cement;
  • then add two parts of paper pulp;
  • add water;
  • the resulting mixture must be mixed until it becomes a regular solution.

If it is to be applied to wooden surfaces, then it is necessary to fill the shingles, otherwise the material will not stick to the surface. The brick or concrete base must first be moistened before applying plaster to it.

The warm plaster obtained in this way, the reviews of which from those who used the described production method are very positive, appearance resembles cardboard. Its heat resistance is four times higher than that of conventional plaster.

Another method of making warm plaster with your own hands differs from the one described above, and gives universal material, suitable for indoor and outdoor use. For this we use:

  • cement, 1 part;
  • vermiculite or perlite, 4 parts;
  • plasticizer;
  • water.

All components are commercially available; PVA glue can serve as a plasticizer, fifty to sixty grams per bucket of cement. Everything is prepared very simply. First, PVA glue is diluted in water, then you need to mix dry cement with filler and add water with a plasticizer, achieving a thick but plastic mass.

After the mixture is ready, you need to let it stand for 15 minutes, stir again and you can start working. A similar heat-insulating plaster, the reviews of which are commendable from those who have used it, is successfully used in various options for internal and exterior finishing.

Industrial materials

However, besides the possibilities self-made, you can use the finished product. The industry successfully produces various types of similar material, for example, thermal insulation Knauf plaster Grünband. It is a plaster mixture (dry), intended for any type of work, based on sand, cement, filler in the form of expanded polystyrene (pellets) and hydrophobic additives and has water-repellent and heat-insulating properties.

Another option would be Houncliffe insulating plaster. It consists of a composite filler (produced by the manufacturer), basalt fiberglass, sand, cement, and polymer binders.

Applying warm plaster

A mixture, such as Knauf warm plaster, must be diluted before application. Dilute the entire volume (bag), observing the dosage and stirring time specified in the instructions. The result should be a plastic, lump-free mixture. It is ready to work within a few hours.

The surface must be cleaned of dirt and dust before applying the material to it; plastering can be done at a temperature not lower than plus 5°C. Apply the finished mixture with a spatula and level (rub in) using a grater or rule.

It is not recommended to make the layer thickness more than 2.5 centimeters; if you want to obtain a greater thickness, then you need to make several layers in succession. The surface can be painted after two to three days. After 28 days, the layer acquires maximum strength, and the thermal insulation capacity will reach its maximum value 60 days after drying.

There are plasters that will not decorate the outside of the house. However, they can be very useful to the building. We mean plasters that are called heat-saving and lightweight. Heat-saving plasters include plasters on a traditional cement-lime base, to which fillers with high thermal insulation ability have been added. Typically these are perlite (volcanic glass) granules or foam balls.

There is also plaster with the addition of expanded vermiculite. It is suitable for exterior and interior decoration - no difference. Next view called sawdust plaster- it contains sawdust, sand, cement, paper and clay. It is not suitable for external decoration, but is ideal for insulating walls from the inside. Sawdust plaster can be applied to stone and wooden surfaces. It turns out that this is a universal material that can be used to level walls, prepare them for decorative finishing and at the same time insulate a house.

Plaster, which contains polystyrene foam, is the most popular in the world. construction market. The composition of this type of material includes polystyrene foam granules, cement, lime and some other additives. This plaster can be used both at home and on the facades of various buildings.

Such plasters are applied in the form of a thick layer (up to 10 centimeters). This, by the way, allows you to hide many masonry defects at the same time. Among other things, the advantage of such coatings is their high vapor permeability, ease of application and low cost.

Let's consider the possibilities of using “warm” plaster in the modern construction industry:

- insulation of the facade and interior walls residential and industrial buildings;

— additional insulation from extraneous sounds when finishing residential or industrial buildings;

- finishing of door blocks and window slopes for additional insulation;

— insulation and soundproofing of ceilings and floors in modern houses.

The main disadvantage of heat-saving plaster– it is not very resistant to mechanical stress. What can you do: perlite and foam plastic weaken the adhesion of cement, sand and lime particles to each other. Therefore, you should not apply such plaster to plinths, foundation and basement walls. It is important to consider that “warm” plaster cannot be finishing coat, it is also worth considering too much material consumption. Therefore, it is highly not recommended to use “warm” plaster for finishing large buildings and premises, since it is easier to finish with other heat-insulating materials.

Light plasters they also raise thermal insulation characteristics walls, although to a lesser extent. This happens due to their porosity. The main advantage of such coatings is that they adhere well to weak and fragile surfaces (for example, old plaster). Both types of plasters are not very beautiful, so a layer of decorative material is usually applied on top of them.

The technology for insulating walls with heat-saving plaster is simple, so you can do it yourself. Before you begin, you need to prepare the walls.

1) For this we need a little cement-sand mortar and a simple broom. Dip a broom in the solution and spray it on the wall. The resulting spray will give better adhesion to the plaster.

2) Mix the plaster strictly according to the instructions.

3) Now you need to install the beacons. Speaking in simple language, the lighthouse is a metal strip. They are used for easy surface leveling. In order to install a beacon on a wall, you need to apply several strokes of plaster along a vertical line, then attach it directly to these strokes. We install the beacon and level it with a bubble level.

4) After installing the beacons, you need to let them get stronger. At this time, you can take a coffee break and admire the work done.

5) Wet the area of ​​the wall on which the plaster will be applied. Using a small ladle, we throw the plaster onto the walls, and there should be no distance between the cakes. When you weigh down the cakes small area walls, it needs to be leveled, for this you will need a rule.

That's it, the walls are ready.

High price utilities and energy resources can push owners of apartments and country real estate to carry out additional work over wall insulation. One of the options for increasing the thermal properties of such bases is the use of special warm plaster. What is it and what kind of coating is there - read about all this in our article.

Thermal insulating plaster: types and features

In the formulations of warm plasters, some of the components of conventional leveling compounds are replaced with materials that can be used to enhance the thermal insulation properties of the hardened mortar. For example, quartz sand or part of it is replaced with perlite, vermiculite, polystyrene foam, etc. additives in in bulk form. Cement or gypsum can be used as a binder. In the first case, the finished composition is suitable for external and internal finishing, in the second - only for internal work due to the high hygroscopicity of gypsum.

The main part of the dry mixtures presented on domestic market, is a perlite plaster. Expanded perlite is used as a filler, which in appearance may resemble coarse sand or small gravel of a grayish-white color. The material is quite light - bulk density around 200-400 kg per cubic meter. m. depending on the grain size. It is somewhat lower for expanded vermiculite. The density of this additive to plaster is approximately 100 kg per cubic meter. m. (bulk). Another property that must be taken into account when using thermal insulation solutions is the high hygroscopicity of hardened coatings. The hygroscopicity of the material is up to 5 volumes of water per 1 volume of expanded component.

Despite the high water absorption coefficients, vermiculite and perlite plasters can be used for external insulation of a building. The main thing is that they are not directly exposed to precipitation, and the steam passing through the walls of the house does not linger in the coating.

The low density of the solution components ensures a reduction in the mass of the finished coating, which can be taken into account when designing a house. There is an opportunity to reduce the load on the foundation and rely on a cheaper foundation for construction.

A short video about plaster based on polystyrene foam.

Two videos on how to prepare warm plaster with vermiculite.

Plaster Teplon (GK Unis)

You've probably heard about such a finishing material as Teplon plaster. This is a ready-to-mix dry mixture based on gypsum binder. A special feature of the composition is the addition of perlite, a porous rock of volcanic origin. It is this additive that gives the manufacturer the right to call their plaster warm. Teplon mixtures can be used for interior decoration. The coating turns out to be relatively light, allows you to level the base and give it additional sound and heat insulation properties.

Types and technical characteristics

At the time of writing the review, the company produced four types of plasters under the Teplon brand. Moreover, three of them are intended for finishing dry rooms and actually have some thermal insulation properties, and the fourth, moisture-resistant modification is not positioned as “warm” (the thermal conductivity coefficient is not specified for it).


Remember that such coatings are highly hygroscopic, so we can talk about the advisability of their use only if the humidity in the room is normal. We are talking about “warm” compositions. And do not forget that you need to insulate the walls from the outside, not from the inside. Accordingly, using completely different materials.

To be fair, we note that the thermal conductivity coefficient of Teplon plaster is 0.23 W/(m×°C), and such thermal insulation materials as extruded polystyrene foam, ordinary foam plastic and mineral wool– 0.029÷0.032, 0.038÷0.047, 0.036÷0.055 W/(m×°C), respectively. And we remember that the lower this value, the better heat-shielding properties characteristic for the same material thickness. What does it mean? And the fact that achieving the same thermal protection of walls when using warm Teplon plaster is more difficult than when installing a special thermal insulation material.

Work technology

  1. Requirements for temperature and humidity conditions for work are standard: from +5 to +30 °C at relative humidity up to 75%. Because All brands of Teplon plaster are produced using gypsum binder, then the condition of the base must be appropriate: clean, dry, without damaged or poorly adhering parts of the wall material. Working surface primed with concrete active (for smooth concrete foundations) or deep penetration soil (for cellular concrete and other hygroscopic materials). Subsequent operations begin after the soil has dried.
  2. Installation of plaster beacons is carried out according to standard scheme, only for attaching beacons use the appropriate brand of Teplon solution.
  3. To obtain a solution of the desired consistency, add a kilogram of powder for every 450-550 ml of water. When using a moisture-resistant brand of water, take less - 160-220 ml. Mix using a special mixer or a puncher with a stirrer. After this, the mass is left alone for 5 minutes. and mix again. Further fate plaster is determined by the value of its viability.
  4. The resulting composition is applied to the walls manually or mechanically (for the MN composition) in a layer 5-50 mm thick. The thickness of the ceiling covering is less - 5-30 mm.
  5. An hour after mixing the solution, the layer of plaster is trimmed along the beacons using the rule. At this stage, all coating defects are corrected: depressions, bumps, waves, etc.
  6. If it is necessary to apply a layer with a thickness of more than 50 mm, then this is done in several stages: layer by layer, after the previous coating has hardened, treated with a primer and over a plaster mesh.
  7. On final stage surface glossing is possible. It is started 2 hours after trimming the set mortar. The coating is wetted clean water, rub with a special sponge grater, and the emerging milk is smoothed out wide spatula.


Umka

Some plaster mixtures Umka is also positioned as warm: UB-21, UF-2, UB-212. In addition to heat and soundproofing properties the manufacturer distinguishes the environmental friendliness of the compositions, their hydrophobic properties, non-flammability and frost resistance.

Compare brands of heat-insulating plasters Umka
Comparison criterion UMKA
UB-21 UB-212 UF-2
a brief description of For all types of stone bases for interior and exterior decoration For walls made of gas silicate and hollow ceramic bricks. Thin-layer, for interior and facade work Finishing layer for finishing any type of stone bases, inside or outside. Thermal insulation properties are an option. In general, plaster is decorative in nature.
Recommended layer thickness, mm 10-100 5-7 up to 20
Volume of water per 1 kg of mixture, l 0,53-0,58 0,58-0,64 0,45-0,47
Consumption of dry mixture, kg/m 2 /layer thickness, mm 3,5-4/10 2,5-2,9/5-7 1,1/2
Viability of solution, min 60 90 60
Thermal conductivity coefficient of hardened plaster, W/(m×°C) 0,065 0,1 0,13
Price/packaging €15/9 kg €18/12 kg

All work is carried out in almost the same order as for Unis products. Because in essence it is a similar product.

Below is short video about Umka plaster.

bear

Warm plaster Mishka is suitable for finishing walls made of any materials, both external and internal works. The thermal conductivity declared by the manufacturer is 0.065 W/(m×°C) - the same as for Umka UB-21 products, which gives rise to some thoughts on this matter. 7 kg of dry mixture is mixed with approximately 3-3.3 liters of water, the solution consumption is approximately 3.5-4 kg/m2 at a 10 mm layer. The cost of a bag (7 kg) is approximately 650 rubles.

Knauf Grünband

Another option for a ready-made mixture from famous manufacturer. You can read more about it.

Making warm perlite plaster with your own hands

You probably already noticed that all compositions for warm plaster contain components that determine their thermal insulation properties. Most often it is perlite or vermiculite; mixtures with expanded polystyrene are also found. It is their low thermal conductivity coefficients that allow, on average, to obtain good values ​​for finished coatings. By using such additives together with or instead of certain fillers, such as sand, as well as binders such as gypsum or cement, you can be sure of mixing a mixture with the desired properties.

Unfortunately, prices for ready-made mixtures do not inspire confidence. What if you prepare the solution yourself?! Moreover, individual components, such as cement, perlite, lime, are relatively inexpensive. For example, a ton of M500 cement can be bought for 3000-4000 rubles, 20 kg bags of slaked lime - 170 rubles each, perlite (grades M75 or M100) - approximately 1500-2000 rubles. per cubic meter If the amount of work is large and the budget for implementation is limited, then it’s time to get creative. We offer you several recipes for making warm perlite plaster with your own hands.

  • 1 part cement to 1 part sand and 4 parts perlite (calculated by volume) is mixed with water until the required consistency is obtained (thick sour cream);
  • the proportions of cement and perlite by volume are 1 to 4. So, for 375 kg of cement you will need approximately 1 cubic meter of perlite sand. The mixture is mixed with 300 liters of water; PVA glue can be used as a plasticizing additive in a volume of 4-5 liters. The glue is mixed in water, to which a dry mixture of perlite and cement is subsequently added;
  • the volumetric ratio of cement and perlite is 1 to 5. For 290 liters of water, use 4-4.5 liters of PVA, 300 kg of cement and a cube of perlite;
    - by volume: 1 portion of cement, 2 portions of sand and 3 portions of perlite. As an additive, you can use liquid soap or PVA in an amount of no more than 1% by weight of cement;
  • 270 liters of water will require a cube of perlite and 190 kg of cement;
  • 1 volume of cement, 4 volumes of perlite, approximately 0.1% by weight of cement, PVA glue;
  • the volume ratio of cement to perlite is in the range of 1:4÷1:8. The additive can be liquid soap, detergent for dishes, PVA – up to 1% by weight of cement;
  • pre-prepare the mixing solution (hereinafter referred to as RZ): dissolve the sodium salt of carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) in a measured volume of water in a volume of 0.5% of the expected volume of warm plaster, as well as plasticizers - 0.5% by weight of the subsequently added cement. All components are thoroughly mixed and the solution is allowed to settle until the viscosity of the CMC increases. Further variations are possible depending on what density the plaster needs to be obtained (bucket - 10 l). For example, for 12 liters of RZ add 12 liters of cement, 2 buckets of perlite, 2.5 buckets of sand (the density of the resulting solution is approximately 1500 kg per cubic meter). For the same volume of RP, 1.5 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of perlite, 1 bucket of cement are poured - a mixture with a density of 1200 kg per cube is obtained. For 20 liters you can mix about 5 buckets of perlite, 1 bucket of sand, 12 liters of cement - we get a solution with a density of about 800-900 kg per cubic meter

All these PVA and liquid soap can be replaced with superplasticizers, for example, from Poliplast. This component is very important, because it determines the behavior of the solution and the mixture’s need for the volume of mixing water.

You must understand that any recipes are given for guidance only. To achieve success, you will have to experiment with the ratio of components and test the resulting solutions in operation. And only after the mixture is ideal for your finishing conditions, you can mix large volumes. Special attention Pay attention to the water absorption capacity of thermal insulation components. They actively retain moisture, which, if there is a lack of mixing water, can affect the technology of hardening the cement mixture.

Finally

If you do not perceive warm plaster as the only solution for insulating a residential building, but only as an opportunity to bring the thermal characteristics of the building to the required values, then the result will not be long in coming. Using such a solution, you can simultaneously level the base and give it new properties. And don’t be afraid to experiment with making your own plaster – it will cost less than buying ready-made mixtures!

Many today are wondering what warm plaster is, for what purposes this material is suitable and how to work with it. Let's start with the fact that in the domestic market of construction and finishing materials this product not so long ago.

So, warm plaster is a mixture made on the basis of the simplest cement. But, unlike usual cement mortar, no sand is added to the composition. Instead of him other ingredients are used:

  • Expanded clay chips;
  • Perlite sand;
  • Expanded polystyrene granules;
  • Powder made from pumice, etc.

What types of warm plaster are there?

If you are interested in what warm plaster is, you should keep in mind that it can be different. There are many types, now we will talk about most popular of them.

  • Among all the varieties of warm plaster, one can note the composition, which contains expanded vermiculite. Expanded vermiculite is a mineral lightweight aggregate that is obtained through the heat treatment that vermiculite is subjected to. rock. If you need warm plaster for exterior work, it’s time to pay attention to just such products. And if you don’t want to look for other worthy options, other uses of the material are also possible. For example, this warm plaster is also suitable for interior work. Quite decent, versatile construction material. Among the advantages of vermiculite are excellent antiseptic properties.
  • If we consider popular types of warm plaster, we cannot ignore the “sawdust mixture”. This substance contains sawdust, as well as particles of clay, cement, and even paper. That is why it is not recommended to use warm sawdust plaster for exterior work. On the contrary, the mixture is most often purchased specifically as a warm plaster for interior work - any specialist will confirm this.

Sawdust plaster is an ideal product for covering brick (concrete) and wooden surfaces. It is recommended that the room be regularly ventilated while the sawdust plaster is drying. It takes approximately two weeks for the composition to dry. If the doors and windows are closed in the room, mold and mildew may appear on the surface - be sure to take this into account.
  • People who want to buy warm plaster always pay attention to a type of material that contains expanded polystyrene foam granules. This plaster contains not only polystyrene foam - here you will also find cement, various fillers and additives, and lime. You need warm plaster for the facade - this option is well suited, however, it is also often used for indoor work.
Because exactly last option plaster (with polystyrene foam granules in its composition) is the most common (which cannot be said about other types), which we will consider in detail within the framework of this material. All comparisons with other materials will also be made specifically for this type.

Warm plaster and its areas of application

Let's look at the industries where this material is used today. Anyway, manufacturers recommend following:

  • Finishing of facades and their thermal insulation;
  • Soundproofing of internal and external walls on existing buildings, as well as additional insulation;
  • Insulation of walls if well masonry is used;
  • Insulation of slopes of door and window blocks in those places where they are adjacent to the walls;
  • Insulation of cold and hot water supply risers, sewer risers;
  • For internal finishing works(as a sound insulator and insulation);
  • Warm plaster is recommended to be used for insulating ceilings and floors.

External finishing of the facade with warm plaster

Let's talk in more detail about How effective is the material? when performing external finishing of house facades.

  1. Warm plaster for the facade will be heavier than all other possible types - up to ten times or more. Consequently, such a wall most likely requires a more solid foundation;
  2. If it is assumed that the façade insulation design will have plaster layer insulation, the thickness of the insulation usually varies from 50 to 100 mm (depending on the thickness load-bearing wall, desired temperature inside and climate zone). If you pay attention to what the thermal conductivity coefficient is, then everything is clear - in order to achieve similar indicators, the layer of warm plaster should be one and a half to two times thicker.
  3. In other words, a layer of warm plaster will have to be made 100-200 mm thick, but the maximum allowed application is only 50 mm - otherwise there will be dumps. Therefore, warm plaster for the facade should be applied on both sides of the wall at once.

Now, based on all of the above, let's consider everything advantages and disadvantages of the material:

pros

  • It is applied very quickly (even one plasterer can apply 110-170 sq.m. in a day);
  • Can be applied without using reinforcing mesh (in places where there are no cracks or corners);
  • There is no need to level the walls if you are going to apply warm plaster;
  • The material has excellent stickiness (adhesion) to all other wall materials;
  • When arranging this insulation there is no metal bonds, accordingly, you don’t have to worry about cold bridges;
  • Rodents will never settle in a wall that is insulated with warm plaster;
  • For more information about the advantages of warm plaster (including for insulating facades), watch the video material. Perhaps you will get answers to all your questions after watching.

Disadvantages of warm plaster

  • The composition is not a finishing coating - not only a primer should be applied to the surface of warm plaster, but also decorative layer plasters;
  • The required layer of insulation is thicker than when insulating with polystyrene foam or cotton wool (approximately one and a half to two times).
Based on all of the above, let’s talk about where it’s really worth using “warm” plaster.
  • When sealing various joints, cracks in the walls, floors of the house;
  • As additional insulation, but this is for internal work - that is, you will need warm internal plaster (in a situation where work cannot be done from the outside - when, for example, there is already an expensive cladding that will definitely deteriorate during disassembly);
  • Warm plaster is often used to insulate the base;
  • When finishing window slopes, the material is also often used.

Applying warm plaster - technology

Before work, prepare the wall surface in the same way as before applying simple plaster to cement based. That is, all dust is removed, as well as the remains of other solutions. If necessary, the surface is treated with special deep-penetrating impregnations, or simply strengthened with a plaster mesh.

It is important that the surface of the wall, which will be insulated with warm plaster, is thoroughly moistened with water before starting all work.
  1. When the composition is prepared for use, the entire package is poured into a container (its volume must be at least 50 liters);
  2. Next, add water in the amount indicated on the packaging of warm plaster;
  3. Everything is thoroughly mixed using a mixer;
  4. The resulting mixture must be used within 120 minutes from the moment of preparation.

How to check whether the required consistency has been obtained or not? It's simple here:

  • Scoop up the solution using a trowel and turn it over;
  • If the mortar holds well on the trowel and does not fall off, it means that the plaster is completely ready for use;
  • Ready-made plaster can be applied either by machine or by hand.

To avoid any difficulties when applying warm plaster, pay attention to the video: applying warm plaster. The lesson will be useful for both specialists and novice renovators.

What they look like subsequent work:

  • The plaster mixture is applied using ordinary plastering tools (trowel, spatula, float, etc.) in several layers;
  • The thickness of one layer should not be more than 2 cm;
  • Each subsequent layer should be applied no earlier than 4 hours after the previous one was applied;
  • If on the street high level humidity, and the air temperature is low (especially in autumn season), the drying time of the layer increases;
  • It is customary to apply the solution only to the surface that has been leveled and primed;
  • Apply warm plaster with a wide spatula, this is done strictly from the bottom up;
  • It is impossible to apply a thick layer of plaster at a time - this may simply cause the mortar to slip;
  • Check and acceptance plastering works usually carried out about three to four weeks after all the work has been done.

Common mistakes when applying warm plaster

It is not difficult to guess that during such work certain mistakes are often made - especially when the work is performed by novice specialists or simply amateurs. Consider this moment in more detail:

  1. If peeling is observed, it means you made some mistake during work;
  2. If the applied composition begins to crack;
  3. If the geometry of the room changes due to the fact that the layer of warm plaster is too thick.
How to check the “geometric” quality of the plastering work that you have completed? This work requires a plumb line, as well as a two-meter rule, and a bubble level. Everything is checked simply: a two-meter rule is applied to the surface (as a rule, an aluminum strip is used as such a tool). If gaps are detected, it means that there are irregularities in the geometry.

It is important that deviations from the horizontal (or vertical) of the plastered surface are not more than 3 mm per meter.

About material consumption

What can we say about material consumption? Everybody is here quite understandable:

  • For each square meter of surface it takes from 10 to 14 kg, if the desired layer thickness is 25 mm;
  • If the desired layer thickness is 50 mm, then the consumption is 18-25 kg per square meter;
  • 1 square meter of wall insulation with warm plaster will cost you $40 (the information will be useful for those who want to buy such plaster) - with a layer thickness of 25 mm;
  • If you turn to specialists to do the work, you will have to pay up to $15 or more for each square meter.
  • To insulate “airborne noise” using warm plaster (this could be noise from a TV, conversations, the sound of a car engine), the material must have a fibrous structure. In addition, it must be ventilated. The effective thickness here starts from 0.5 cm;
  • To insulate “impact noise” - knocks, falling objects, sounds of footsteps, the material must have elasticity (like rubber).
Warm plaster does not meet either the first or the second requirement, so all data on excellent sound insulation performance is most likely slightly overestimated.

For some work, warm plaster (facade, interior decoration) is indeed used often and this is quite justified. But its use is not always advisable - in many cases you can limit yourself to completely different materials or insulation and get either the same or a more impressive result.

Be sure to take this into account when performing finishing or repairs - in order to protect yourself from unpleasant surprises in the future.