When is the best time to plant derain? Variegated dogwood care in autumn. How to carry out tree cuttings at different times of the year

White dogwood is an incredibly beautiful shrub that will serve as a hedge in your garden plot. The culture is not very demanding in care and is not demanding on the soil. In this article we will tell you how to plant and care for white dogwood and look at how to grow it in your garden.

Description of the white Derain bush and popular varieties

The second name for white turf is white dogwood. This is a bush 1.5-3 m high, depending on the variety. Gardeners fell in love with the plant for its decorative properties and the ability to be used in landscape design. The plant blooms in early summer with white flowers, and by autumn blue-white fruits are formed, which birds love.

The bush changes depending on the season. In summer the leaves are dark green, up to 10 cm in length. In autumn they turn red-violet. When growing turf on a site, take into account that it grows slowly. The growth per year is 20 cm. Some varieties give up to 50-60 cm of growth per year, but this is rare. The bush is resistant to frost, drought, diseases and pests.

There are more than 20 types of white wood. Let's look at the popular ones:

1. Elegantissima. The bush is frost-resistant. The leaves are dark green with a white edge. Grows up to 3 m in height.
2. Siberia. The variety looks impressive due to its red bark in winter. Grows up to 1.5 m.
3. Sibirika Variegata. Has spotted leaves. Grows up to 2 m in height, suitable for small areas.
4. Aurea. This variety has the largest leaves of a burgundy shade with a transition to yellow.
5. Shpeta. The bush grows up to 2.5 m in height and has a spreading crown. The leaves are green with golden stripes and do not change color throughout the year.
6. Kesselrings. The most cold-resistant variety. The leaves, like the branches, are reddish.
7. The most common varieties for the Moscow region and the middle zone are Shpet and Elegantissima.

How to propagate a bush in a garden plot

There are three ways to propagate turf:

1. Cuttings. Cuttings are harvested in the spring during pruning. The top of the shoot is cleaned and planted vertically in the ground. With regular watering, the branch takes root within two weeks.
2. Propagation by seeds. Turf seeds remain viable for up to three years. After collection, they are stored in a cool place. It is not necessary to collect seeds; turf seedlings can be found throughout the area, because the seeds are carried by birds.
3. By layering. The crown of the tree is spreading and the branches bend low to the ground. If you sprinkle them with soil in the spring, a new bush will grow the next year.
4. Dividing the bush. This method is suitable for spring and autumn planting. The shoots are immediately planted in a new place.

The peculiarity of white Derain is that it quickly takes root under favorable conditions.

If turf seedlings are planted for the winter, choose frost-resistant varieties. Heat-loving plants will die. Be sure to cover the seedling with agrofibre or straw for the winter. Cuttings are the fastest and most popular method of propagation.

How to choose a landing site

White turf is not picky about the soil. It grows equally well on loamy, sandy and heavy clay soil. The difference in cultivation is only in care and degree of watering. When growing, take into account the following nuances:

1. Bushes grown in the sun have brighter colors and grow faster. In the shade, the turf slows down its growth.
2. When growing in swampy areas, be sure to drain the soil, otherwise the roots will rot.

For active growth, they create the maximum comfortable conditions. Let's consider the main factors of growing a bush.

Tip #2. It is necessary to grow turf for decorative purposes only in a sunny area. The bush grows faster and has rich shades of leaves and shoots.

Growing from seeds and cuttings

Cuttings are the most popular method of propagating a bush. Sod grows in two years. Choose a strong varietal bush and cut the cuttings. It is better to carry out this procedure at the beginning of summer; it is not necessary to cut off the green shoots. Brown branches take root well. Cuttings take root well in open ground or a greenhouse. The latter method is used when growing in autumn.

But cuttings do not last long in greenhouse conditions. After rooting, it is advisable to plant them in open ground. Before planting, the seeds are stratified. They are mixed with the substrate in a ratio of 1:4 and placed in the refrigerator for two months. Let's look at the features of growing by cuttings and sowing seeds in the table.

Derains are rarely grown from seeds, because the bush is formed no earlier than after five years.

How to care for a derain bush

In early spring the bush is fed. Humus is used (up to 5 kg per 1 square meter), as well as complex mineral fertilizers. " Such products contain all the necessary nutrients for the restoration of the bush after winter and the development of foliage. In mid-summer, after flowering, the turf is fed with peat or compost. On average, up to 150 g of organic fertilizers are applied to a bush.

Deren prefers wood ash among fertilizers. Among store-bought fertilizers, the following are distinguished:

1. Lime or dolomite flour. Fertilizers are used when growing bushes on sod-podzolic soil.
2. "Diamophos". This is a mineral nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer that increases the bush’s resistance to disease and cold.
3. Complex fertilizer “Master” for decorative deciduous plants. Suitable for root and foliar nutrition of crops.
4. "Ecoplant". This is a potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. Apply in spring or late autumn at 20 g/m. sq.
5. Mineral fertilizer for the landscape "Rosla". Increases resistance to cold and promotes bush growth. The norm is 60 g/m. sq.

All fertilizers are used either earlier in the spring at the roots, or in the fall when loosening and mulching the soil. To retain moisture in the summer, the soil is mulched with sawdust, peat or humus. Adult bushes do not need watering, unless the summer is hot. Young plants are watered twice a month. Pour up to 20 liters of water under the bush.

Formation and pruning of the bush

The formation of a bush is necessary for white turf, because the branches are spreading and grow chaotically without pruning. With large annual growth, prune the bush up to three times per season. The last time is pruned in early August. Pruning shoots stimulates the growth of new branches. After the procedure, shoots up to 20 cm from the soil level are left. It is advisable to form a bush in the spring.

Autumn pruning can negatively affect the development of the plant and reduce its frost resistance. How to prune and what look to give the bush depends on the preferences of the gardener. For the procedure, purchase sharp garden shears.

Trimming Features:

1. In order for the bush to delight with red shoots in the fall, the branches are pruned in early spring or at the end of winter (for the southern regions).
2. The shoots are trimmed before the first leaves appear, so that by the end of summer the bush will delight with abundant foliage.
3. In the fall, the turf is pruned so that it delights with lush foliage and flowering in the summer. In spring you can slightly adjust the shape. "

With heavy pruning, the bush blooms and bears little fruit. If you grow turf for flowers and fruits, then cut the branches by a quarter. To renew an old bush, shoots are cut at the root. This is done every three years after ten years of the plant’s life.

Diseases and pests of white turf

Adult plants rarely get sick, but young seedlings are often affected powdery mildew. A fungal disease develops in early spring and spoils the appearance of the bush. The disease can be recognized by the following signs:

• white coating on the leaves;
• there are brown balls on the branches and stem;
• flowering stops;
• leaves wither and fall off.

In addition to powdery mildew, turf can be affected by pests. Let's look at the measures to combat them in the table.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Question No. 1. When does the bush start to bloom?

The bush blooms in the third or fourth year after planting.

Question No. 2. How is a bush used in landscape design?

White dogwood is suitable as a green decoration for a garden plot. They form hedges, using garden shears to make columns, balls, arcs, trees or balls with legs from the bush. It all depends on the gardener’s imagination. " For standard forms The Ivory Halo variety is suitable. It is advisable to tie the stem to a support.

Question No. 3. Is it necessary to cover the bush for the winter?

Derain is resistant to frost and severe temperature changes, so even when grown in Siberia there is no need to cover it. It is enough to compact the snow tightly around the stem.

Question No. 4. Which regions are suitable for white derain?

The Moscow region, middle zone and Siberia are suitable for derain. The bush is frost-resistant and loves rainfall. When growing in the southern regions, you need to pay special attention to watering.

Question No. 5. What types of wood are suitable for hedges?

The varieties Atrosanguinea, Winter Flame, Elegantissima, Shpeta, Aurea Elegantissima and Sibirika Variegata are suitable for hedges.

Mistakes gardeners make when growing white dogwood

We offer common mistakes in growing turf:

1. For cuttings, you should not choose green cuttings. They often freeze out in winter. Preference is given to brown four-year-old shoots.
2. On poor soils there is a risk that the cuttings will not take root. Be sure to apply fertilizer. On clay soils add sand, sawdust, humus or compost. For sandy ones - peat and humus.
3. When growing several turf bushes in one flower bed, plant them no closer than 3-4 m from each other. The ten-year-old plant grows up to 4 m wide.
4. The bush is transplanted in the spring along with a lump of earth into a previously prepared and fertilized hole. If the root system is damaged, the development of the plant will slow down.

Variegated dogwood will decorate any garden, its bright, bordered leaves combined with unusual color the barks make the plant unusually decorative. Planting a bush should be provided in a free area of ​​the garden - the turf grows very quickly, the free space around the bush makes it more convenient to carry out periodic inspection of plants and care.

Variegated dogwood: varieties and varieties for planting in the garden

The name of the plant translates as “horn”, which is associated with the very heavy and durable wood of the plant. In culture, derain grows in the northern regions of our planet, but is found wild in the center of the African continent. In total, about 50 species are known, which include deciduous and evergreen varieties, you can see in the photo different types plants.

Even derain leaves beautifully decorate the garden

Variegated dogwood usually grows no higher than 3 meters, has the shape of a spreading shrub, but can grow to the size of a low tree. The plant looks very decorative - the bark is painted in bright brown-red tones and has a shiny surface. The leaves of the plant are green, or bordered with yellow or white, which, in combination with unusual branches, looks very decorative.

Variegated dogwood blooms from May to June with white flowers that reach almost 5 cm in diameter; in the fall, white-bluish berries are formed. The berries cannot be eaten; they are inedible.

The crop is quite unpretentious, derain tolerates formative pruning well, which is why it is very popular for decorating parks and squares and is often used in landscape design to create colorful compositions. Excellent resistance to freezing allows the use of variegated turf in landscaping in the northern regions.

In botany, the following popular species are distinguished from the genus Derain:

Photo various types plants convey the inexpressible charm and uniqueness of leaf color.

Planting a plant in compliance with agrotechnical requirements

Planting should be timed to coincide with the warm season, best done planting work in the spring. This allows the plant to strengthen and grow over the summer and be prepared to leave for the winter.

Young plant

To stimulate growth in the first year of cultivation, the plant is fed with complex fertilizers, alternating root and foliar feeding. First winter young plant should be soft, for this it is useful to cover the bush from frost. Covering should not be excessive, otherwise the plant may dry out during thaws.

Advice. The place for planting the tree can be shady or sunny, it is only important not to plant it too close to tall trees. The planted bush should have enough free space for the development of branches.

Shrub care and propagation

Shrub care does not contain any special recommendations. The crop needs to be watered evenly without overflowing. If necessary, bushes should be treated for pests if any are found. Derain hedges require periodic trimming, sometimes this needs to be repeated several times a season.

It is very easy to propagate variegated turf, you just need to take cuttings from an adult plant, which quickly take root in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Plants obtained from cuttings completely retain their maternal characteristics: leaf color, bush shape and height, flowering time. After three years of cultivation, the derain forms berries that contain seeds.

Derain requires minimal care

Propagation of the crop by seeds is also possible; to do this, you should sow the seeds in loose soil and grow them in a greenhouse for about a year. Young seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the spring. Significant distances are left between plants, since the turf is characterized by vigorous growth.

In the first year of life, the turf is fed frequently, using complex fertilizers. In the next years of life, the plant is fertilized several times per season, with fertilizer applied under each bush. The last feeding of the bush is carried out in the first ten days of September.

Inspect the plant regularly and remove pests as soon as they appear.

Derain: diseases and pests

Derain is a fairly disease-resistant crop, but aphids and fungal diseases can cause severe damage to the plant. The fight against aphids comes down to destroying the pest mechanically - it is washed off the branches with a stream of water from a hose.

Attention. If there is a large infestation of aphids, the bushes should be treated by special means from aphids.

Fungal diseases develop on the plant due to improper care, especially when overwatering occurs. The development of fungal infections can be prevented by following the watering regime. In case of extensive damage by fungal infections, diseased bushes are treated with foundationazole, topaz or other drugs against fungal infections.

Types of derain: photo

Most people who have gardens and personal plots try to create Beautiful design, decorate your territory. Many people like to plant ornamental trees and shrubs. Blood red and white derain will be an excellent option. These tall bushes will decorate the lawn and give the area as a whole a well-groomed and attractive look. Today we will tell you about the types of derain, we will describe these plants, and you will also be able to learn all the rules for planting and caring for ornamental shrubs.

White derain shrub: description

This deciduous shrub is certainly perfect for decorating a site. It can grow up to three meters. If you don't take care of it, it becomes too sprawling and unkempt, and all its charm is lost, so consistent trimming is necessary. Of course, it may seem too tedious, but it's worth it! If you don’t start the plant, you won’t need a lot of time and effort for “hairdressing” procedures.

So, the white turf shrub is very bright. Its shoots are red in color, which turns brown over time. The same pruning and removal of old shoots will help maintain color saturation. After the leaves fall, the beauty of the shrub does not disappear; it will look especially fascinating in winter, against the backdrop of snow.

The foliage is very impressively colored. The underside of the leaf is dark green, while the top is light. In addition, each leaf is decorated with an uneven white border, and the rest of the leaf has white spots. Neither edges nor spots will disappear in the autumn when the foliage turns purple.

You should not miss from the description the moment of flowering of the white derena bush. The flowers fill the entire tree and are white and yellow in color. They are small, only one and a half centimeters in diameter, flat, collected in elegant five-centimeter inflorescences. In autumn, blue-white fruits appear on the derena shrub; they are unsuitable for consumption.

Where to plant?

The deren bush is absolutely not demanding on the quality of the soil. It tolerates heat and frost well and grows well in the sun and in the shade. The turf is resistant to droughts, but it also feels excellent at high humidity. If you have a wetland on your site, you can plant the described ornamental shrub there. It will not only decorate a damp place where not every plant can survive, but will also dry it out quite a bit.

The white derain shrub can be planted as a hedge. It looks great alone or together with other ornamental plants. The juxtaposition of white and bloody wood looks especially gorgeous. Ornamental shrubs and trees are popular for decorating city parks. They tolerate haircuts well and are not particularly demanding in care.

Red derain shrub: description

This plant came to us from Europe. It belongs to the dogwood family, like all other types of dogwood. In nature, it can be found on the slopes of lakes and rivers, in bushes, and on forest edges. Growing in the wild, the red derain shrub can grow up to four meters and is spreading.

New shoots of this plant are green but turn red over time. The foliage is abundant, dark green on the inside and light green on the underside. Unlike white dogwood shrubs, they are not decorated with spots and a white border; their charm lies in something else. Each leaf has a "hair covering" and they look very cute. In autumn, the foliage turns blood red, as do the stems, hence the name.

The derena shrub begins to bloom at the end of May and continues for three weeks. If the climate is favorable, then another flowering is possible in August. The tree first begins to bloom when it is seven years old. The flowers are creamy-white in color, collected in inflorescences as neat as those of the white tree. In autumn, the bush is covered with black fruits, but no matter how attractive they look, they are completely inedible.

The turf shrub is very beautiful in winter, especially when there is an abundance of snow. The red stripes of the plant stems are clearly visible on the white canvas, which cannot but attract admiring glances. It looks amazing, fabulously enchanting.

The turf shrub, a photo of which is in this article, should be planted in a place where there is a contrast of colors. It is winter-hardy and tolerates both drought and high humidity. The root system has many small branches, so the plant can be used not only for decoration, but also to strengthen the soil on slopes.

Planting derain shrubs

As we wrote, both white and red species grow well in the shade. But the color of foliage and shoots may fade in ornamental shrubs and trees if there is insufficient sunlight. In this case, the tree will stretch out, its crown will become less dense, and the shoots will be pale, and from an aesthetic point of view this is unsightly. It is worth noting that the more intense the sun's rays heat the bush, the richer the red color of its shoots becomes.

The turf shrub may not grow very quickly in the first two years, but then it will sharply increase in growth, so when planting, take into account the possibility of its free growth.

Soil selection

The described plant is completely unpretentious to the quality of the soil; it can grow in any soil. But for better growth and beauty, it will still need fertile soil, or you can feed it. Before planting, it is necessary to add organic fertilizer to the hole - this can be manure or compost. If the area is too wet, install drainage to prevent water from pooling at the roots.

Landing rules

When choosing a seedling, ask the seller to choose for you one that has not reached four years of age. If its roots have dried out a little, then you will need to place the plant in water for several hours so that they straighten out and are well nourished. If you wish, you can treat the roots with a growth stimulator. After this, the turf shrub must be trimmed down to fifteen centimeters so that the shoots do not draw out all the forces that the roots will need for development.

Planting can be done in both spring and autumn. The latter is more preferable, because after the snow melts the plant will immediately begin to grow and will need much less time to adapt. In addition, in the fall the soil is saturated with moisture, and the bush will only need to be watered once, during planting.

If the procedure is carried out in the spring, then the plant is planted with a large lump of soil on the roots so as not to disturb them. After the ground is mulched, the seedling is watered steadily. The area should not be allowed to dry out.

Watering

During dry and hot summers, you will need to water the decorative derain shrubs generously every week. If there is not enough moisture, the foliage will lose its elasticity, but after drinking water it will quickly return to its original appearance.

If the shrub is planted together with other plants that are regularly watered, the derain will not require individual procedures.

Fertilizers

The shrub does not need feeding, but literally enjoys it. If you sometimes pamper your handsome man with fertilizers, he will reward you with juicier, brighter shoots and a lush crown. A tree that is cared for blooms more profusely and is denser. In the fall, a lot of berries will appear on the bushes, which, although inedible, are still needed. They look impressive against the background of foliage that has changed color.

Proper feeding is:

• in spring you need minerals (from 100 to 150 grams per bush);
• In summer, organic matter is needed (5 kilograms of manure per plant).

These feedings are carried out once a year.

Trimming

A derain shrub without stable haircuts will lose its beauty. The shoots will turn brown, and their lower part will become completely bare. In addition, without removing shoots and pruning, the plant will quickly grow to the sides. Its branches will fall to the ground, its roots will fill everything around. Externally, the bush will look very untidy and will cease to be a decoration of the site.

The first time the turf needs to be cut is when it reaches the age of three. In the spring you will need to cut off all old shoots by twenty centimeters. In autumn, the procedure involves removing all weak shoots that spoil the appearance of the bush. It will also be necessary to shorten old ones that might have been overlooked in the spring.

Are shrubs afraid of pests and diseases?

Deren almost never gets sick. The shrub may not develop well if the area is very swampy, in which case drainage can be created. To do this, holes are dug along the plantings; they need to be filled with stones or crushed stone.

Prevention against pests is not carried out, since the turf shrub is rarely attacked by them. But at the same time, regular inspection of the plant is necessary: ​​aphids that suck the juices, yellow-orange fly larvae, or a sawfly that will feed on the foliage may settle on it. If one of the listed insects is detected, it is necessary to eliminate them using insecticides.

Reproduction

There are several ways to decorate your site with derain shrubs. Let's look at each of them.

1. Derain seeds they need to be planted in the fall, and if it is planned to do this in the spring, then they need to be hardened off by placing them in the refrigerator or under the snow for two months. From seeds, a full-fledged bush will grow only after seven years.
2. Plant with layerings- The easiest way. To do this, the lowest branch is tilted to the ground, pressed and secured with a bracket. The place of contact is sprinkled with humus; by autumn, roots will appear there. You can plant a new plant from the main bush in the spring.
3. Cuttings You can also propagate turf. To do this, fresh shoots that have just begun to grow stiff in June are cut at an angle with sharp pruning shears. All lower leaves are removed, the top is removed, the cutting is placed in the soil in a greenhouse, and watered steadily. By autumn, roots will appear, and the cuttings can be planted in open ground.
4. You can divide a large bush into several small ones by digging it out completely.

Variegated dogwood is an ornamental plant that is quickly gaining popularity among gardeners. It is extremely unpretentious, yet looks very impressive. Culture is widely used in landscape design. In fact, here the gardener is limited only by his own imagination. The plant looks attractive at any time of the year, even when it loses its leaves in winter. The frost resistance of the crop allows it to be planted in most of Russia, including in regions with a harsh continental climate, and planting and care do not take much time.

Description of variegated dogwood

This plant is the achievement of breeders. Such a plant does not exist in nature. It was bred on the basis of white Dorain from the Dogwood family. This plant has monochromatic green leaves. Breeders have added colors - now they have an uneven border of white, cream, yellow, lime, and golden shades. The leaves are heart-shaped, with a smooth edge and a clearly defined central vein.

White dogwood served as the basis for a very successful experiment by breeders

The name comes from the Greek "horn". This is due to the fact that the wood is very strong and heavy. The homeland of the “original” is northern China, the Korean Peninsula, and Japan. The plant is also found in the Far East. Optimal temperature for its growth and development - 17–20°C.

Variegated dogwood is characterized by a high growth rate; young bushes turn into a dense hedge in just a few years

This is a small tree or shrub reaching 2.5–3 m in height. The crown diameter is 4–5 m. The bark is painted in an unusually bright coral or brick color and shines glossy in the sun. Therefore, the plant does not lose its attractiveness, even if it loses its foliage. Its branches look very impressive in winter against the backdrop of white snowdrifts.

Variegated dogwood is an ornamental shrub that is quickly gaining popularity among gardeners.

The crop blooms and bears fruit twice per season. The buds open for the first time in May or June, the berries appear after about a month and a half. The second wave of flowering is the second half of August or September. The berries then look very beautiful against the background of red-orange and purple foliage. The flowers are snow-white, collected in corymbose inflorescences 4–5 cm in diameter, the fruits are bluish-white or greenish, inedible.

Variegated turf blooms profusely, this happens twice during the growing season

Video: what variegated turf looks like

Variegated dogwood is distinguished by its growth rate and tolerates pruning, even radical pruning, without much damage. The more often the procedure is carried out, the denser the bush becomes. This feature makes it suitable for forming hedges. Pruning for the plant - strictly mandatory procedure. A bush growing uncontrollably in different directions looks very untidy.

The berries of variegated dogwood in autumn look very impressive against the background of leaves painted in all shades of red.

The culture's low maintenance requirements are simply amazing. Variegated dogwood adapts to almost any climatic conditions and is undemanding to soil quality and lighting. Frost resistance allows it to be planted almost throughout Russia, including the Urals and Siberia, where harsh winters are by no means uncommon. The shrub tolerates frosts down to -40°C without problems.

The unusual coloring of the bark only adds to the showiness of the variegated turf

Duren is widely used in landscape design. The plant's unpretentiousness allows it to be planted in city parks, where environmental conditions are usually far from ideal. Amateur gardeners also appreciate it. The variegated dogwood bush can be placed almost anywhere personal plot, even where other ornamental crops simply do not survive.

A hedge made from variegated dogwood is quite dense and can be used to protect other plantings from the wind.

The simplest use that can be found for turf is to form a hedge, flat or stepped. But there are other options for using it. In fact, here the gardener is limited only by his own imagination. Varieties with green-white leaves “dilute” well-saturated plantings dark green, For example, coniferous trees, introducing a refreshing note into the composition, as if “a ray of light.”

Sprawling, dense shrubs cover well unsightly walls, fences, and other structures.

Variegated dogwood looks good both in single plantings and in compositions

You can plant turf in front of larger trees with a highly raised crown and a “bare” trunk. This is the so-called underpad. The entire composition visually “deepens”, becomes more voluminous, and looks more harmonious. Dogwood is also good in single plantings, but in combination with other plants it looks even more impressive. If you add roses, juniper, barberry, and viburnum Buldenezh to it, you will get a very bright composition that is invariably pleasing to the eye.

In winter, variegated turf looks no less attractive than in summer.

The plant is not only decorative, but also useful. Variegated dogwood has a powerful root system. It is planted in areas characterized by soil erosion and landslides. The wind-swept area can be surrounded by a “green ring”. The density of the variegated dogwood bushes will protect the plantings located inside from cold drafts.

In autumn, the foliage of the variegated dogwood turns different shades of scarlet and purple.

Video: place of plants in landscape design

The most common varieties with photos

It cannot be said that there are a lot of varieties of variegated dogwood, but among those available, every gardener will certainly find a variety to his liking. All of them are easy to care for and very effective.

• Elegantissima. One of the most common varieties in garden plots. Well suited for single plantings. The height of the bush is 2.5 m. The shoots are straight, bright, coral in color. The leaves have a pointed tip and are slightly concave along the central vein. The main color is green with a bluish tint, the border is white or pale light green, quite narrow. The flowers are white or pastel pink.
• Sibirica Variegata. The height of a very dense bush is 1.2–1.5 m. Bright, almost blood-scarlet branches. The leaves are flat, elongated, salad green. The edging is snow-white. In autumn they change color to a rich purple with a violet tint. The flowers are greenish-cream. The berries are blue-blue, covered with a thick layer of “waxy” coating.
• Gouchaultii. A very “massive”, squat bush. Its height is only 1.5 m. The shoots are dark scarlet, long, flexible, drooping. The leaves have a wide, uneven border of lemon-yellow color. If the plant is planted in open, sunny areas, it begins to turn pinkish. The flowers are straw-yellow, the fruits are bluish.
• Cream Cracker. A very graceful shrub with a crown directed upward. From him without special effort you can form a standard tree. The border on the leaves is light beige or cream. In autumn it changes its shade to lime.
• Spaethii. Brought out more than a century ago. A variety of variegated dogwood with a bright golden-yellow border on the leaves. Sometimes it can cover most of the leaf blade. Those that are just blooming are orange-red. In autumn they turn different shades of purple, scarlet-lilac, almost violet. Plant height is up to 3 m, the crown is spreading and wide. The flowers are yellowish, the shade of butter. It tolerates heat, drought and frost very well. It stands out for its growth rate, adding 20 cm annually.
• Argenteomarginata. The height of the bush is about 3 m, the crown is spreading. Without pruning, shoots will droop slightly. The leaves are elongated, up to 10 cm long. The main tone is grayish-green with a silvery tint, the edge is creamy-white. Spots and stripes of the same color may be present. In autumn, the color of the leaves varies from golden lemon to brick red. The flowers are yellowish-white, the berries are the same shade, with a bluish tint. The variegated color is not lost in the shade, but disappears under the bright sun.
• Ivory Halo. One of the new selections. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m. The crown, even without pruning, takes the shape of an almost regular ball. The leaves are light green, the border is ivory-colored, as if pearlescent. The bark on young shoots is bright red, then gradually changes color to brick.
• Kernii. Grows up to 2 m in height. Leaves with a border and lemon-yellow spots different sizes. The bark on young shoots is colored in an unusual reddish-burgundy color.
• Westonbirt. The height of the bush is about 1.5 m. The bark on young shoots is coral-pink, then gradually darkens. The leaves are also pink.
• Behnschii. Grows up to 1.5–2 m in height. Young shoots are bright scarlet. The leaves are dotted with small white, cream and sometimes dull red spots. There is a narrow border along the edge.
• Aurea. A very impressive contrast of lemon-yellow foliage and bright red branches. The shrub is quite compact, up to 2 m in height, the crown is spherical.
• Aurea Elegantissima. The bush grows up to 2 m. Young leaves are brick-colored, then turn yellow. They are wider than other varieties, almost round, matte. In autumn they acquire a slight reddish tint, but the overall tone does not change. When grown in full sun, a beige-brown stripe may appear on the edge of the leaf. Compared to other varieties, it demonstrates lower frost resistance.

Photo gallery: varieties popular among gardeners

Dorain Elegantissima is one of the most popular varieties of culture Turfgrass Sibirica Variegata - very dense, low shrub In direct sunlight, the leaves of the Gouchaultii dogwood take on a pinkish tint. Cream Cracker turf is suitable for forming a standard tree Turf Spaethii - a very spectacular plant variety Turfgrass Argenteomarginata may lose its characteristic color in the sun Dorain Ivory Halo - one of the latest achievements of breeders Duren Kernii stands out for its unusual bark shade Westonbirt grass is easily identified by the color of its leaves. The Behnschii dogwood has leaves with a rather narrow border Doren Aurea - suitable plant for those who miss autumn even in summer Aurea Elegantissima is slightly different from its “relatives” in leaf shape

Landing procedure and preparation for it

Unpretentiousness extends to the conditions for planting and caring for variegated dogwood. The plant tolerates substrate of almost any quality, including saline, acidified and alkaline. The only thing that is absolutely not suitable for it is groundwater located closer than one and a half meters from the soil surface. This can trigger the development of root rot. For the same reason, it is undesirable to plant turf in a clay, peat, or silty substrate, which easily sours. The ideal option for shrubs is fertile soil that allows water and air to pass through well.

Variegated dogwood will suit almost any place in the garden.

The plant feels good in the shade, in partial shade, and in bright sun. This does not affect his development. But over time, especially in the absence of proper care, the variegation of leaves can fade to monotony both under direct sunlight and when there is a lack of light.

The root system of variegated dogwood is quite powerful and developed. Therefore, it is advisable to place the shrub away from plants that have superficial, fibrous roots. It can simply “strangle” them or deprive them of nutrition, drawing water and necessary macro- and microelements from the soil.

The planting procedure is most often planned for spring. In regions with a temperate climate, this is generally the only possible option. Only in this case can it be guaranteed that the plant will adapt to new living conditions before the first frost and form a sufficiently developed root system that will provide it with everything necessary for wintering.

The crop is deservedly considered frost-resistant, but with planting it is recommended to wait until the air warms up to 12–15°C, and the soil warms up to 8–10°C at a depth of 10–12 cm. The exact landing time depends on the climate in the region. This could be mid-April or late May. You can rely on folk signs - birch leaves beginning to bloom, dandelions blooming.

The planting pit is prepared in advance, at least two to three weeks before the procedure. It’s better to dig it up in the fall, adding all the necessary fertilizers. Her optimal depth- 55–60 cm, diameter - about half a meter. If the quality of the substrate is such that moisture will clearly stagnate in it, pour a bucket (or a little more) of expanded clay, pebbles, crushed stone, small ceramic shards, and brick chips onto the bottom. This will be drainage. It is necessary to form a layer at least 4–5 cm thick.

At the bottom landing pit for variegated dogwood, a drainage layer is desirable

Be sure to add rotted compost or humus - about 10 kg per pit. It needs to be mixed with the top layer (10–15 cm) of fertile soil extracted from it. The variegated dogwood will also gratefully accept mineral fertilizing - 50–70 g of simple superphosphate, 25–30 g of potassium sulfate and 40–50 g of urea are enough. Those who prefer to do without chemicals can replace them with sifted wood ash. A liter jar is enough.

Humus is a natural remedy for increasing soil fertility

The finished planting pit is covered with any material that does not allow water to pass through so that the nutrient mixture at the bottom does not wash away. Suitable, for example, is a piece of slate or roofing felt.

If you plan to plant several single specimens, minimum distance between planting holes - 1.7–2 m. When forming a hedge, the interval between neighboring bushes is reduced by 2–2.5 times.

If you plan to form a hedge from dogwood bushes, reduce the distance between them

Plants up to four years old are selected for planting. Adult specimens take root much worse. They are purchased (as well as any seedlings) only from reliable, trustworthy suppliers with a good reputation. Shopping at markets, fairs, or simply from hand is a big risk. To a gardener, especially an inexperienced one, under the guise desired culture they can sell anything. It is advisable that the nursery where the seedlings were grown is located in the same area or nearby. Plants from it are already familiar with the peculiarities of the local climate, this contributes to rapid adaptation to a new place.

When choosing a seedling, you must pay attention to the root system. It should be developed, the length of the taproot should be at least 20 cm. Dried and rotten roots of healthy plants are missing. They should be flexible and creamy white or pale green when cut. The bark of such specimens is smooth, elastic, uniform in color, without spots suspiciously reminiscent of mold or rot.

The choice of planting material must be approached with full responsibility

There is nothing complicated about planting a plant in the ground. Even a novice gardener can cope with this. It is not much different from a similar procedure for other fruit trees and berry bushes.

1. For seedlings with an open root system, the roots are soaked in water at room temperature for 2–3 hours. It is enough to water the specimens in pots generously about half an hour before planting. In the first case, a little potassium permanganate is added to the water (to prevent fungal diseases) and/or any biostimulant (to strengthen the immune system and stimulate growth). Then the roots are coated with a paste of powdered clay diluted with water and fresh cow dung. The consistency of this mass should resemble thick sour cream. She is allowed to dry on outdoors. A couple of hours is enough.
2. The nutrient mixture at the bottom of the pit is moderately watered and loosened, and a kind of mound is formed from it. If a single planting is planned, at first you will need support - a peg 25–30 cm high than the seedling, taking into account the depth of the hole. It is stuck into the soil at the bottom, slightly away from the center of the mound.
3. The seedling is placed at the bottom of the hole so that its roots are directed downward and not sticking up and to the sides. Then it is covered with small portions of soil, periodically shaking the plant slightly to fill the “air pockets” that form. The position of the seedling should be such that when the hole is completely filled, the root collar is 2–3 cm above the ground surface. If it is buried, the plant will die. And when it is located too high, weak “offshoots” are formed instead of healthy side shoots.
4. After planting, the soil in the tree trunk circle is well moistened, using 20–25 liters of water heated to room temperature. When the moisture is absorbed, it is carefully loosened shallowly and mulched.

A newly planted variegated dogwood bush needs regular watering.

Video about planting and further work with the crop

Young specimens of variegated dogwood tolerate adaptation to new living conditions and the associated stress quite easily. But for adult plants the process is quite complicated. A transplant is carried out only when it is impossible to do without it. For example, if the place for a bush is chosen extremely poorly, it oppresses other plantings, the leaves have lost the variegated color characteristic of the variety. Besides mature plant difficult to remove from the ground due to its developed root system.

The procedure is carried out in late autumn, when the turf has completely lost its leaves, or in early spring, when the growth buds have not yet “awakened” and are not swollen. The plant is removed from the ground along with a lump of earth on the roots, trying to damage it as little as possible. The diameter of the root system approximately coincides with the crown of the bush. The earthen lump should be carefully wrapped in polyethylene or burlap and moved to a new place. After transplanting the turf, be sure to water it abundantly, and mulch the soil with humus mixed with peat chips.

Instead of purchasing planting material, you can get it yourself if there are already specimens of variegated dogwood on the site. The plant reproduces well both vegetatively (cuttings, dividing the bush, rooting layering) and generatively (seed germination) methods. The last method of reproduction is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming. In addition, it is impossible to guarantee that the main varietal characteristic - the variegated color of the leaves - will be preserved.

Important nuances of caring for variegated dogwood

Variegated dogwood is a plant from the “plant and forget” category. Many gardeners do this. But in order for the shrub to maintain its decorative appearance and develop normally, a minimum of time and effort will still have to be spent on it.

The main thing the plant needs is regular pruning. Specimens with thickened branches sticking out in different directions, “bald” at the bottom, look very unpresentable. The turf tolerates the procedure well, even if the gardener overdoes it a little. During the active growing season, depending on the growing conditions, the turf tree adds 30–100% of green mass.

An uncontrollably growing bush of variegated dogwood looks rather untidy

The first time pruning is carried out at the beginning of the third season after planting in open ground. No more than a third of all shoots are removed, leaving the most powerful and developed ones.

The dogwood bush tolerates pruning, including radical pruning, with virtually no damage.

The procedure is carried out in early spring, before active sap flow begins, but always at above-zero temperatures. The exception is the hedge, which is formed twice a year, in July and September. For this purpose, use exclusively clean, sharply sharpened and disinfected tools - knives, scissors, pruners. All “wounds” must be thoroughly covered with garden varnish, after being washed with 2% copper sulfate or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of crushed chalk and any fungicide.

Tree pruning is carried out when the plant has completely lost its leaves in the fall or has not yet “woke up” in the spring.

As for the configuration, the gardener is limited solely by his own imagination. A variegated dogwood bush can be given any, the most incredible shape. Not least for this, landscape designers appreciate it. Although many people prefer to simply slightly adjust the natural shape.

Be sure to get rid of broken, leafless, dried, deformed, twisted shoots. Those that grow inwards, thickening the crown, or downwards also look bad.

Only tools that have been disinfected are used for pruning wood.

Variegated dogwood belongs to the category of “chimera” plants. Their tissue cells have differences at the genetic level. Therefore, sometimes a gardener can find monochromatic green leaves on shrubs with initially variegated colors. They, along with the shoots, must be removed in a timely manner, because they are genetically stronger. If you do not trim on time, soon the variegation will disappear altogether.

Video: pruning turf

Young plants and transplanted adult specimens require daily moderate watering during the first week after the procedure. In general, variegated turf can withstand drought and heat without much damage to itself. Powerful roots allow them to draw moisture from deep layers of soil. Adult plants are watered at the root once a month. If there is intense heat for a long time and there is no precipitation, the intervals between procedures are reduced to 5–8 days. Water consumption rate is 20–25 l. By autumn, watering is gradually reduced.

The variegated dogwood bush does not need frequent watering; the root system can easily provide the plant with everything it needs, including moisture

Fertilizing is applied twice during the growing season, in spring and autumn. In the first case, a complex mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Azofoska, Diammofoska, Nitrophoska). 200 g is enough for an adult plant. Once every 3-4 years, you can pour a bucket of humus or rotted compost under the bush, mixing it with the soil during the loosening process.

Azofoska is a common nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer

In autumn, the tree needs phosphorus and potassium. A natural source of these macronutrients is wood ash. It is added to the roots in dry form if the weather is rainy. When there is no precipitation for a long time, an infusion is prepared - a half-liter jar of raw materials per 3 liters of boiling water. You can also use complex fertilizers without nitrogen, for example, ABA, Autumn.

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium and phosphorus

During the active growing season, if desired, about once a month you can feed variegated dogwood bushes with natural organic matter. Infusions of fresh cow manure, chicken droppings, nettle greens, and dandelion leaves are suitable for this. In general, any weeds growing in the garden can be used as raw materials. They are crushed and about a third of a deep container is filled. The remainder is added with water. The container is tightly closed and left in direct sunlight for several days. A characteristic “aroma” signals that the fertilizer is ready. Before use, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8. If the product was prepared using droppings, you will need twice as much.

Nettle infusion is a natural and absolutely free fertilizer

To increase the growth rate, it is useful to feed young (1–2 years) plants with store-bought complex mineral fertilizers, alternating root and foliar feeding. The solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions given in the instructions.

Only young variegated dogwood plants under the age of five years need special preparation for winter. Adult specimens can withstand even severe Ural and Siberian frosts without much damage.

The soil in the tree trunk circle is cleared of plant debris and loosened. The mulch layer is updated. It is advisable to use humus or peat chips. At the roots its thickness is 10–15 cm, on the remaining area 5–6 cm is sufficient. If the dimensions of the bush allow, it is covered with a cardboard box of a suitable size. The shoots can be carefully lifted and tied from below for greater compactness. The box is filled with straw, fallen leaves, wood shavings, and crumpled newspaper paper.

Only young variegated dogwood bushes need special preparation for wintering.

Another option is to build a structure like a hut. Poles of suitable height are used as a frame. Several layers of burlap or other air-permeable covering material (agryl, lutrasil, spunbond) are stretched over them.

Video: experience in growing variegated dogwood

Possible problems during cultivation

Variegated dogwood is an extremely problem-free plant. To ruin it, you need to try very hard. It practically does not suffer from pathogenic fungi. The only exception is root rot, the development of which is most often provoked by the gardener himself, who waters the plantings too often and/or abundantly. Pests also do not pay much attention to the bush. Only aphids can cause significant harm to it.

Another possible problem is that the leaves lose their tone and droop. This is due to a lack of moisture in the soil and most often occurs during prolonged heat and drought. It is enough to water the plant generously several times, and its condition will return to normal.

Aphids are effectively repelled by any infusion with a pungent odor. It is enough to treat the bushes twice a month. As raw materials, you can use any herbs, wormwood, yarrow, tomato and potato tops, marigolds, onions and garlic.

Aphids are extremely omnivorous garden pest feeding on plant sap

If pests are detected, the dogwood bush is sprayed with soap foam, and after about half an hour it is washed off with water from a hose. If the desired effect is absent, the same infusions are used, but the interval between treatments is reduced to 6–8 hours. Other effective means - food diluted with water or soda ash, mustard powder. In the event of a massive pest invasion, any general action insecticides are used.

Root rot is dangerous because the pathogenic fungus for a long time develops without showing itself in any way. When the first symptoms are noticeable on the above-ground part of the bush, it is usually too late to save the plant. The bases of the shoots soften, turn black, become slimy to the touch, and may become covered with a layer of mold. They give off an unpleasant putrid smell. The leaves lose their tone, droop, and dark spots appear on them.

Symptoms characteristic of root rot appear only when the development of the disease has already gone far

To prevent the development of rot, potassium permanganate is periodically added to the irrigation water until it turns pale pink. Powdered chalk or wood ash is added to the roots. Having discovered characteristic features, watering is reduced to the required minimum, all affected shoots are pruned. Trichodermin and Glyocladin granules are added to the soil. The plant itself is sprayed 3-4 times with a solution of any fungicide. But these measures may not produce results. Then the only thing left to do is dig up the firewood bush and burn it. To disinfect the soil in this place, spill a 5% solution of potassium permanganate or Bordeaux mixture. Layers and cuttings can be taken from the affected plant, but only from healthy shoots.

In gardening practice there are often Situations that require transplanting currants to a new location. Most often this is due to an error in choosing a location, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by pain and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account biological features and the annual cycle of currants.

• Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush
  • Selection and preparation of a site
• After care

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters When the air temperature drops below 30°C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

Spring transplant carried out after the soil has completely thawed, the temperature has risen to +1°C and before the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation and reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region.

There are many more favorable factors when transplanting currants in autumn. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new location.

In addition, there are much more currants in the cells in the fall nutrients and a downward current prevails, which promote rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of gardening, shrubs They prefer to replant in the fall. It is important to determine the most accurate timing; there should be at least three weeks left before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth absorbed roots. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

The basis for successful transplantation of an adult shrub- correct choice of location, preparation of soil and bushes.

Selection and preparation of a site

Red and white currants - heat-loving plants . For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or southwest. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, is well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currants less demanding plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are observed when planting on slopes in a northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which help clear the area of ​​rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Not suitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins where cold air stagnates and humidity increases. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with the application of fertilizers per 1 m2:

• Compost or manure 10 kg;
• Double superphosphate 10 g;
• Potassium chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, prepare a hole for transplantation: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with substrate

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for bushes. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

When deciding on the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases A depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm is sufficient.. For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm will be required. The distance between bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is filled 1/3 with substrate. from mixed components:

• Upper layer garden soil from the pit;
• Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
• Superphosphate 300 g (for black currants) 200 g (red, white);
• Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, dig a hole deeper and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed, no more than 15% of the total volume.

After that The hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants, all conditions for comfortable adaptation of the roots will be created inside the hole.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the added minerals and organic matter will take forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause burns to the roots.

Transplanting currants:

Preparing red and black currant bushes

During replanting, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult for the vegetative mass to feed. Therefore, currants 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, trim, leaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. At autumn planting Pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it; at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the harvest is placed on them.

On the top The branches also produce fruit buds en masse, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the bush are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season’s harvest. After trimming average height currants should be 45-50 cm.

Productivity of currant fruit 5 years, There is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches; these should also be removed.

You should not combine pruning shrubs with replanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute forces to heal wounds and adapt roots to a new location. This can cause the death of currants.

You can transplant it to another place!

During replanting, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the tree trunk circle, 40 cm away from the trunk. After this, you need to carefully pull the bush at the base of the branches, cut off the holding roots with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The dug up shrubs are placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the planting site.

Further Inspect the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. The disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the planting hole Form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill 1-2 buckets of water. After this, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in an environment that is too humid will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

It is also taken into account that The root collar of the bush should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When replanting, you need to take into account that the root collar of the bush is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

With respect to the cardinal directions, the currants are placed in the same way as before. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

When filling the roots, make sure that no voids are formed., which often become the cause of decay. To do this, the bush is periodically shaken during the procedure.

The surface is compacted and A hole for watering is formed around the tree trunk circle.. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting until completely absorbed. With this type of watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the tree trunk circle and hole are mulched with peat, humus or turf soil.

After care

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the tree trunk circle is maintained in a constantly loose state. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for adequate nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the bush is prepared for winter:

• Clean the tree trunk circle from plant debris;
• Lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
• Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• Spray with fungicides;
• The branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine;
• They pull snow towards the bushes.

Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleared of plant debris, the branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Regular watering every other day will be required.. In such a way that the soil is moistened to a depth of 60 cm. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need fertilizing. After two weeks, the timing of irrigation is determined by the condition of the soil under the bush.

The crumbling of soil into small pieces after squeezing in your hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is used throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases, which is explained by a temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the gardener’s task during this period is full control over currants, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help with this, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2:

Derain (photo) planting and care

• ✓ White or Siberian dogwood
• ✓ Derain sucker
• ✓ Derain blood red
• ✓ Dogwood is also a dogwood
• ✓ Derain planting and care
• ✓ Derain - correct fit
• ✓ Derain - care
• ✓ Tree trimming
• ✓ Protect from aphids
• ✓ Your own tree seedlings
• ✓ Derain in the garden
• ✓ Derain in the garden - planting and care: video

Dogwood - varieties and types, care and planting

We continue to get acquainted with ornamental shrubs that can decorate the gardens of the middle zone, but are still little known to our summer residents. Doren is unpretentious, winters well, reproduces easily and is beautiful all year round. In spring and summer, variegated varieties are especially attractive due to their large, bright leaves with a silver or golden edge. In autumn, the crown transforms, turning into purple, crimson and maroon tones. Even in winter, derain attracts attention with its shiny burgundy or orange-red shoots.

Nature has created about four dozen species of dogwood, many of them grow in the temperate zone

Northern Hemisphere. The Latin name "corpus" (cornus) translates as horn, which is associated with the unusual wood - hard, heavy, with a beautiful reddish texture.

These shrubs are sometimes called svidina, they all have a dense crown and are the best plants for hedges built on poor soils.

White dogwood, or Siberian

White dogwood, or Siberian dogwood, is one of the most popular and winter-hardy shrubs of its family. It is able to withstand severe frosts because its homeland is Eastern Siberia and the Far East. In forests it lives among shrubs growing in damp places; it can be found on the banks of rivers and streams. Valued for its dense crown, the diameter of which is equal to the height of the bush. Usually it grows no more than 3 m. The leaves are elliptical or broadly ovate, large (up to 12 cm long), dark green above and whitish-gray below. Due to the raised venation on top, they appear wrinkled.

At the age of 3-4 years the bush begins to bloom. Its miniature yellowish-white flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences with a diameter of 3-5 cm. Flowering begins in May and lasts throughout June. At the beginning of autumn, flowers may re-bloom on young shoots. In August, juicy bluish-white berries ripen.

In autumn, the bush retains its attractiveness thanks to its purple-red, carmine-pink or violet-burgundy leaves. In winter, its calling card is the coral coloring of the shoots.

The plant is winter-hardy, shade-tolerant, and not demanding on soil. Ability to grow well in close standing areas groundwater makes it very valuable for damp places. Doren not only decorates such gardens, but also drains them.

The most popular garden forms of white dogwood are related to the color of the leaves. The leader is the bright Shpet variety, the leaves of which are decorated with a golden-yellow border. The thickness of the bright edging varies; in some places it covers most of the leaf blade, causing the leaves to turn almost entirely yellow.

This bush, up to 2.5 m high, will always attract attention. In autumn, 5-10 days before frost, its leaves turn violet-purple, among them the clusters of berries turn white, giving the plant a fantastic appearance. In winter, its brown-red shoots stand out against the background of white snow. And what else makes me happy - deren Shpeta winters well in the middle zone.

The same yellow stripe with small pink spots on the leaves of the variety Gauhault. A similar variety, Krem Kreker, is still rare in Russia, but is also winter-hardy and beautiful.

No less interesting are the forms of white dogwood with a silvery-white edge on the bluish leaves: Variegata and Sibirika Variegata with a wider silver border. Similar variety Elegantissima popular among gardeners all over the world due to its unpretentiousness and very elegant coloring of the leaves. White-bordered varieties bloom annually and are winter-hardy, but in severe frosts the tips of young shoots may be damaged. These varieties are quite often sold in nurseries. White-edged varieties are much less common Ivory Halo and Westenbert with bright coral-red shoots, large milky-white inflorescences (up to 7 cm in diameter) and purple autumn colors leaves on bushes 1-1.5 m high.

Derain sucker

Shooting grass comes from North America. It grows in damp forests and thickets of bushes, as well as on damp banks of rivers and reservoirs. Outwardly, it is very similar to white derain and is just as winter-hardy.

The maximum height of this shrub is 2.5-3 m. Its young shoots are also red-coral. The main difference is the ability to produce numerous root shoots, so the bush looks as if it is falling apart. Shoots that hang down can easily take root when they touch the ground. The bush blooms annually from 4-5 years of age. Inflorescences (up to 5 cm in diameter) with milky-white flowers bloom in May, and juicy bluish-white berries ripen in the fall.

This tree also has several garden decorative forms, of which the best known Albo marginata with a white border on the leaves.

Thin flexible shoots of turf are an ideal material for making baskets and weaving decorative hedges in the garden, and its dense reddish wood is useful for turning durable joinery.

Derain blood red

Indeed, blood-red derain is famous for its bright autumn foliage. And although in nature this beauty is found in the southwestern regions of the European part of Russia, the Carpathians and the Caucasus, it winters well in the middle zone. In its native places it settles along the edges of forests, wet places, on the banks of rivers and lakes.

This is a 3-4 m tall shrub with long drooping shoots that cover when young! greenish-brown bark, darkening over the years. Bright green leaves 4-10 cm long on both sides are covered with small curly hairs. From the age of 7, the derain blooms annually and produces berries. At the end of May and beginning of June, for 2-3 weeks, the shrub is covered with shields of inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter, consisting of many milky-white flowers. In August, secondary flowering is possible, and then blue-black berries the size of a pea ripen.

Such a rare and beautiful shrub is surprisingly undemanding to soil, tolerates drought well, can grow in the shade, does not freeze in winter, and responds positively to pruning. It also has garden forms, for example: with dark red shoots Atrosangia, with green berries and fruits Viridissima, and Mitchie leaves and young shoots are pale yellow speckled.

Sometimes southern dogwood is sold as a subspecies of blood-red dogwood. However, this 2-3 m tall shrub with a wide drooping crown freezes here...

Dogwood is also a dogwood

It is interesting that a close relative of all these species is the dogwood, or male dogwood. It is familiar to many of us because of its edible fruits (up to 10 cm long), which are good for making sweet and sour jam, bright ruby ​​compote and preserves.

In the wild, dogwood grows on the mountain slopes of the Caucasus and Crimea and is very common in southern Russia. There, in the form of a small tree or densely branched shrub, it reaches a height of 5 m and lives up to 250 years. It blooms with yellow flowers collected in bunches, and before the appearance of shiny oval leaves. Our bushes grow 2-3 m high, bloom regularly, but produce few fruits, they are small (1.5 g) and not as juicy and tasty as those from the south.

Decorative deciduous dogwood varieties need shelter for the winter: Aurea with yellow-green leaves; Variegata with white-edged leaves; Aurea Elegantissima, whose leaves are decorated with creamy white streaks and streaks; Argentio variegata with silver spots on the leaves.

Dogwood fruits are rich in vitamin C, anthocyanins and sugars. Thanks to pectin substances, they are good in processed products.

Derain planting and care

Since turf is unpretentious, it can be planted in the fall - during the period of massive leaf fall of trees, and in the spring - after the soil has thawed, while the buds have not yet blossomed on the bush. He is comfortable both in the illuminated area and in the shade.

It prefers moderately moist soil, loves light sandy loam, although it grows well on loam and even peaty soils.

Derain - correct landing

Planting pits are prepared in advance. When planting several bushes, dig them out every 70-100 cm. For young plants, the diameter and depth of the planting hole is 50 cm. Place turf in it with the root collar deepened by 1-3 cm. On loamy soils, the roots are sprinkled with a mixture of turf soil, compost, peat and sand (in a ratio of 2:2:1:1) with the addition of fertilizers: 100 g each of superphosphate, wood ash, dolomite flour. On peaty soil, the volume of sand and dolomite flour is increased by 1.5-2 times. After planting, the soil around the seedling is compacted tightly, leaving no voids in the root zone, a hole is made and watered.

Most often, a high hedge is created from the wood, which protects the area from dust, noise and provides shade in the heat. In this case, before planting the bushes, mark the line of the future green fence using a tightly stretched twine. Then, strictly along this line, they dig a trench 50-70 cm deep and up to 50 cm wide. With this approach, the hedge will turn out smooth and beautiful.

If planting material at the age of 3^5 years is purchased in containers, then planting will be successful and will not cause much trouble. All that is required is to carefully remove the plant from the packaging without disturbing the coma, place it in a trench or planting hole, then water thoroughly. If the bushes become slightly askew after watering, they should be pulled up and straightened to maintain an even planting line.

The dogwood plant is not a capricious plant, however, it will suffer and get sick if the planting hole is shallow (less than 20 cm).

Because of this, the roots of the bush will become distorted and partially exposed, which can lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, the minimum depth of the planting hole should be 50 cm.

Deren - care

Derain grows well if it has enough moisture. Therefore, it needs watering; young bushes especially suffer when the summer becomes hot and dry. If there is a lack of moisture in a clay area with cracking soil or on quickly drying sandy soil, large tree leaves begin to wither.

The bushes should be watered in the evening and abundantly, wetting the soil to a depth of 50 cm. For greater efficiency, a stream of water is directed directly into the hole of the trunk circle and completely filled with water. After watering, the elasticity of the leaves is quickly restored. The approximate watering rate for adult bushes is 30-40 liters. Usually watered 4-6 times per season.

To retain moisture longer, after watering, sprinkle the hole around the tree trunk with peat, wood chips, sawdust, small pebbles, nut shells or other mulch. Its 4-6 cm thick layer protects the roots from overheating and inhibits the emergence of weeds, the seeds of which are carried through the air. The best time for mulching is spring, when the soil is still moist but already warm enough.

To keep the crown of the bush thick, it is advisable to feed the turf once every 2-3 years. Mineral fertilizers replenish the nutrients necessary for powerfully developing shrubs. Fertilizers are applied to the soil during intensive shoot growth. At the end of May or beginning of June, complex mineral fertilizer, usually offered to gardeners in the form of small granules, is scattered around the plant on wet soil, lightly loosen and sprinkle with soil or mulch. Each bush requires about 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea and potassium nitrate.

If shoot growth is suppressed before flowering, the bushes need additional fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer (15 g of urea), which will promote better branching. In the fall, applying potassium fertilizer (15-20) will help increase plant resistance to various diseases and improve the winter hardiness of ornamental varieties.

Tree trimming

An important step in caring for fast-growing shrubs is pruning. To maintain the neat appearance of a hedge made of wood, regular shaping is also necessary. It is produced in early spring - before buds open, annually, starting from the first year after planting.

The choice of the cross-sectional shape of a hedge should correspond to its height and purpose, taking into account a small reserve for the growth of shoots. You should not be particularly zealous in removing or cutting the lower tier; you should strive for it to be 10-15 cm wider than the actively growing upper tier.

When pruning turf, gardeners will need a garden pitcher, sharp tools - pruning shears, a garden hacksaw and trellis shears

Before pruning work begins, frames of the required diameter are installed across the hedge as a template. A rope is pulled between them to help adjust the cutting surface with trellis shears. You can make such a frame yourself from bars, for example in the form of a trapezoid, the lower part of which will be 10-15 cm wider than the top. If the amount of pruning work is large, then their implementation will be greatly facilitated by a power tool - a garden hedge trimmer. The shaped hedge is distinguished by its sophistication and grows back quickly after cutting.

Bushes planted singly on the lawn can be given a beautiful shape in the form of a ball, oval or pyramid. It is known that the growth of white dogwood shoots persists for 13-15 years, and then dies out, so during these years the shrub will need pruning every year.

Older dogwood bushes will require rejuvenating pruning, which consists of cutting out the thickest branches, which differ not only in diameter, but also in the faded-dark color of the bark. The timing of it depends on the age of the bushes and is often related to the growing conditions of the bush.

Periodically, dried, broken and damaged shoots are removed from the bush, that is, sanitary pruning is carried out. It can be carried out at any time of the season. Doren tolerates all types of haircuts well, grows quickly and without compromising decorativeness.

Protect from aphids

Doren does not get sick and rarely suffers from pests, but sometimes on the tops of young shoots, on the peduncles and with bottom side tree aphids may appear on the leaves. Small, wingless, black females feed on plant sap in spring. In the summer they fly away to the green lawn, but closer to September the small winged insects return to the bushes. During this period, small aphids circle over the tree in such a mass that they get into the eyes and clog the nose, which annoys gardeners. If you don’t fight it, it will safely overwinter on the bushes and everything will start all over again.

Preparations from plants cannot be stored for a long time, so they must be used within 24 hours.

To destroy the pest in early spring, it is necessary to treat the bushes with an insecticide against aphids. In 10 liters of water you need to dilute 15 ml of actellik, 15 g of confidor or 2 ml of actara. Such spraying is carried out in dry weather, observing all safety rules prescribed for such products.

For summer protection from voracious aphids, infusions and decoctions of field herbs and garden herbs are suitable. Prepare a dandelion infusion from 1 kg of leaves, which are poured into 5 liters of warm water, left for 24-36 hours, and then filtered. A decoction of yarrow will serve the same purpose. During its flowering period, collect 1 kg of grass with inflorescences, add 1.5 liters of water and bring to a boil. Then add another 1 liter of water, cool the broth and filter. Spraying the bushes is carried out three times every 5-7 days. Against aphids, you can also use an infusion of marigolds or celandine, prepared from 1 kg of dried shoots with flowers, filled with 5 liters of water. After a day of infusion, it is filtered, a little laundry soap is added for better adhesion to the leaves, and the bushes are treated.

Your own derain seedlings

Dogwood is easy to propagate by cuttings, root shoots and layering, this is one of the reasons for its widespread use in creating hedges.

The simplest and most accessible way of reproduction is Replanting root shoots. Every year, more and more of it appears near the sprouting tree, and a little less near the white tree. In spring or late autumn, you need to carefully dig up the selected shoot along with a lump of earth. If it is firmly connected to the bush, then it is cut off using pruning shears and replanted in a new place.

However, a limited number of seedlings can be obtained in this way. For a hedge you will need a lot of them, no propagation here. Green cuttings Not enough. Large shoots that break with a crunch when bent are suitable for this. Typically, this degree of their development is observed during the June flowering period of the bush. Cuttings are cut in cool weather. First, shoots are harvested with pruning shears and placed in a container of water so that they do not dry out. Then they are divided into segments 10-15 cm long with two internodes. The upper cut of the cutting is made above the bud, the lower cut is made obliquely under the bud, the leaves are cut in half.

Cuttings form roots better if, before planting, place the ends in a heteroauxin solution for 12 hours (1 tablet per 1 liter of water), and then rinse thoroughly with water. You can sprinkle the ends with root root powder. Rooting is carried out in a greenhouse or under a 5-liter plastic jar. The soil substrate is a mixture of turf soil with sand, topped with a layer of coarse sand 3-5 cm thick.

The soil is moistened and the cuttings are planted to a depth of 5 cm at an angle of 45". During the rooting period, they are regularly watered. After the roots have formed, the cover is removed. Usually by autumn the cuttings are rooted by 80-100%. However, they must be replanted better in spring, leaving it for the winter at the rooting site without shelter.

It is also propagated by woody cuttings, which are harvested in late autumn or early winter. Bunches of shoots are stored in the basement, buried in moistened sand, or in a damp cloth, and on top in polyethylene, placed in the refrigerator. In the spring, the branches are divided into cuttings and rooted in the same way as green ones.

Reproduction by layering is easiest in the shoot tree; its shoots take root very quickly. However, if you sprinkle the young branches of white dogwood with soil in the spring, they will also give roots. By the end of summer, from 3 to 6 young plants are obtained from one shoot; they are trimmed with pruning shears and transplanted to a permanent place.

Non-varietal turf is propagated by seeds. In September, juicy fruits are collected from the bush, the seeds are removed and the pulp is washed. Sowing is carried out in autumn or spring. When sowing in autumn with freshly harvested seeds, seedlings appear the following year in early summer. If sowing is delayed until spring, then cold stratification is required. To do this, the seeds, poured into a fabric bag, are placed in a pot with damp sand. For 2 months keep at a temperature of 3-5 degrees, for example in the refrigerator.

For sowing, nutritious soil is prepared, composed of leaf soil, peat and sand (in a ratio of 2:2:1). Small seeds are sown superficially and moistened, preventing them from being washed out of the ground. When the seedlings appear, they are transplanted to the garden bed. Seed germination lasts 1-2 years.

Read also: Ornamental shrubs: grown in the ground and at home

Derain in the garden

The best option for using dogwood seedlings is to create a hedge. In addition, varietal white dogwood plants, especially gracefully trimmed, will be a worthy addition to decorative groups with many shrubs, be it the common barberry variety Atropurpurea or Spiraea ashen variety Grefsheim.

The garden will come to life if you plant the rare Kearney variety on the lawn with golden specks and spots on the leaves. The greenish-yellow leaves of the Aurea tree are harmoniously combined with the purple crown of the Ottawa Purpurea barberry and the openwork leaves of the Crispa variety stephanandra.

The compact variety Nana (about 1 m high) will be spectacular next to Kuril tea against the backdrop of tall trees - white acacia, horse chestnut or sugar maple.

Blood-red dogwood bushes about 3 m high can be planted even in shaded corners of the garden. At the border of the site where it is necessary to decorate outbuildings, the variety will come in handy Viridissima with bright green shoots. A hedge made from the Atrosanguinea variety or its twin Winter Flame (similar Winter Beauty and Annie) will be a reliable green fence thanks to its bright yellow-orange shoots, and in the fall the red-orange crown will leave an unforgettable impression.

In a group with the dark-leaved bladderwort Diabolo and double mock orange Alabaster, the background will be complemented by the Variegata turf, the wide border on the leaves of which can be either yellow or creamy white. The Mitchie variety with small pale yellow spots on the leaves is interesting in various combinations with spirea, lilac or rose hips.

For group planting, the new varieties of dogwood Magic Flame and New Red (2 m high) with large light green leaves and red-orange young shoots are interesting. The dwarf variety Compress with its original, highly wrinkled leaves of a dark green color has earned great popularity. This turf with miniature leaves will decorate the corner of the garden gazebo in a group with yellow-leaved mock orange Aureus and weigela variety Eva Rathke.

Sprouting grass will help if there are steep slopes on the site. Its bushes up to 2.5 m high in the Flaviramea variety with shiny yellowish-green shoots and Nitida with emerald branches will reliably fix crumbling soil thanks to many root suckers. Elegant varieties with white-edged leaves of Albo-marginata and Wide Gold (aka White Spot) can be planted on the shore of a reservoir or under birch and maple trees in a large area.

More compact bushes about 1.5 m high can complement groups of beautiful flowering shrubs - lilac, deutzia and mock orange. Rare varieties Sanshi and Hetgerow Gold will decorate the garden with red shoots and original leaves with a wide, uneven greenish-yellow border. Dwarf variety Casley (or Casley Darf) will surprise guests with a domed crown up to 1 m high, spread out in a diameter of 1.5 m.

Tall white dogwood bushes should be placed in the background so that they do not obscure shorter plants.

Derain in the garden - planting and care: video

How to use turf in your gardens. Derain care.

Watch this video on YouTube

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

Digging up a bush for further division into sections

How to divide a peony bush?

Dividing a bush into “divisions” is not so simple: the roots are tightly intertwined, and finding suitable pieces of rhizomes (size, buds and adventitious roots) is not always easy.

Peony divisions ready for transplanting

ADVIСE

• If you are dividing a large rhizome, then you need to remove very old parts (usually they are hollow and rotten), and wash the cut areas with potassium permanganate and sprinkle with fungicide (copper sulfate, potassium sulfur or modern preparations - see the article on Combating powdery mildew- head of the facility).
• If part of the root with one single bud suddenly breaks off on your favorite flower, then do not despair. Replant and care for the division anyway. In most cases, the seedling will survive and will be just as beautiful, only the bush itself develops more slowly.
  Moreover, try to germinate just pieces of the root. After all, buds may hatch on it in 1-2 years. To do this, dig it in and water it periodically.
• A cutting with many buds and a small number of thick storage roots will develop poorly due to a lack of nutrients. But if it’s the other way around, then the root system will develop poorly.
• A division with 1-2 buds and a piece of rhizome blooms a year later due to slow development, but in the end a healthy and developed bush will grow. It is better to grow them in separate beds.

PREPARATION FOR TRANSPLANT

Before transplanting the peony to a new location, soak its roots in a solution with a growth stimulator (“Heteroauxin”, “Rooter”, “Succinic acid”).

After wetting, the seedling is dried for 5-10 minutes.

Features of suction roots

Each bush has several thousand suction roots, which are almost invisible to the naked eye (slightly thicker than a spider's web) and go vertically down to great depths. It is for them that they dig such deep planting holes, make a layer of fertilizing and drainage if groundwater is close.

Many gardeners mistake the short white roots for suction roots, but they are an annual continuation of the thick storage roots that appear at the end of September.

Therefore, it is recommended to plant peonies and prepare cuttings from the end of August to the end of September, before they appear.

How to replant peonies to bloom? Location, soil, distance, depth

In order for peonies to bloom, they need to be replanted correctly. For their growth and development, the following factors must be taken into account: place, soil, timing, planting hole, distance, planting depth and the seedling itself.

NEW PLACE

When transplanting to another place, you need to choose one that can provide them with comfortable conditions for development and flowering. It should be draft-free and exposed to the sun for a long time.

Ideally, the sun should hit the flower for 4-5 hours in the first half of the day, while a little shade in the midday heat will prolong flowering. It is optimal to choose the eastern side.

Bad choice

• If water accumulates there. Even if it’s 1-2 times a year in spring or autumn for a couple of days.
• Shady place. Shade of even 2-3 hours a day is contraindicated for herbaceous and tree-like peonies.
• Close to trees (3 m), bushes (1.5-2 m) and buildings (1.5-2 m). Large shrubs and trees “take” nutrients from flowers, and house materials emit heat and create an imbalance of temperatures.

SOIL AND ACIDITY

The optimal acidity level is pH 6.2-6.8.

Herbaceous and tree peonies prefer well-drained and loamy soil.

See also: HOW TO FIND OUT THE ACIDITY OF THE SOIL?

TRANSFER DISTANCE

Low-growing varieties when planted in a row - 70-80 cm, in other situations - 90-110 cm, and for vigorous and tree-like peonies - 1.3-1.8 meters. The distance between the bushes plays a role significant role, so it’s better to take a small margin than to reduce the interval.

AT WHAT DEPTH SHOULD PEONIES BE PLANTED?

Correct planting depth: 3-4 cm (heavy soil) and 5-7 cm (light soil). It is under these conditions that the rhizome does not suffer from heat or cold. By the way, deeper planting is fraught with a lack of flowering.

Adjusting the peony planting depth

How to plant peonies correctly? Instructions

EXPLANATIONS

DRAINAGE. When groundwater rises close to the roots and to reduce its level between the rows, you need to dig a drainage hole and completely fill it with crushed stone, pebbles or broken bricks. At the same time, keep the root collar of the plant above the row spacing.

Many articles on replanting write about creating drainage at the bottom of the planting hole, but for herbaceous peonies there is no need, but for tree peonies it is possible. Drainage is required in areas with high groundwater levels, where they are planted on high ridges.

FERTILIZERS. When planting a flower, fertilizer is vital. They will help you develop well and be strong. Phosphorus fertilizers are also added to prevent brown spots from forming on the leaves over time.

When feeding after transplantation, phosphorus often forms insoluble compounds and settles at a shallow depth. It is better to use organic phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal) than mineral ones (superphosphate) as they gradually decompose and feed the flower for a long time.

It is useful to add rotted weeds from clay soil. It is clay soil that retains nutrients, unlike sand, peat or podzol.

TOP. The top layer of the planting hole (at least 15-20 cm) should not contain fertilizer, so it is covered with ordinary loose soil on top so that the roots stretch down and receive oxygen.

Diagram of a hole for planting a peony

ADVIСE

• It is better to dig a hole and prepare it 15-30 days before planting. During this time, the earth will subside, and then you will immediately plant the peonies at the required depth.
• For better flower survival, dip the roots in a paste-like solution of clay with “Heteroauxin” and two tablets of copper sulfate for 3-4 minutes. Then dry for 5-10 minutes and plant in the ground. You can also simply use growth stimulants without clay.
• If the pH is below 6.5, then add 100 grams of slaked lime, and if below 6.0, then 200 grams per bush.
• Attention! Gently touch the roots as they are quite fragile.
• Read more about the principles of planting in a special article - link at the bottom of the page.

How to make compost for planting?

In an area that receives good sun, make a narrow pile of weeds. This will allow air to flow in and aerobic bacteria will develop. If there is no rain, water the compost so that earthworms will crawl.

Only when laying a hole for planting, add mineral and organic fertilizers to the compost.

When is it better to transplant peonies to another place? Spring or autumn?

Most experts recommend replanting them from mid-August to mid-September. The main thing is to have time to replant 30-40 days before the onset of frost. By autumn, the bush develops a root system, it becomes stronger and remains dormant.

Timing for transplanting peonies in autumn

Replant peonies from mid-August or fall depending on your climate zone.

• Siberia, Ural - from August 20-25 to September 15-20.
• North-west, Moscow region, Middle zone - from August 20-25 to September 20-25.
• The south of Russia and Ukraine - from September 1 to September 30.

Unlike planting, for transplanting deadline- end of September, until suction roots have formed.

Is it possible to replant peonies in the spring?

We know that experts strongly advise replanting peonies in the fall, when they are dormant and better tolerate manipulation of the roots. But many gardeners want to replant in the spring. And then the question arises, what to do?

In contrast to specialists, there are amateurs who decide to replant in the spring, because they are sure that Mother Nature is full of strength. In addition, in the spring the suction roots grow well, and the soil is saturated with moisture.

When is the best time to replant peonies in the spring?

For the success of spring transplantation, it is important to meet the deadlines. It is best to replant as soon as the snow melts: the ground has a lot of moisture, the sun is not yet hot, and the plant itself has not woken up after hibernation.

Spring replanting is best done sooner rather than later.

ADVIСE

In the first year after transplantation, it is important to water and feed the flower on time. This way we will significantly increase the chances of survival and successful wintering of the bush.

If buds appear, cut them off immediately so that the flower does not waste energy on them and better develops the root system.

Caring for peonies after transplantation

In autumn, care after transplantation consists of preparing the seedlings for winter: they are covered with a 10-14 cm layer of peat (except acidic soil) or spruce branches. In spring, the mulch is raked to the sides and standard plant care begins.

Next fall, it is also better to cover the bush for the winter.

Read more in the article about planting - chapter “Care for peonies after planting.”

When will peonies bloom after transplanting?

They bloom after transplantation usually after two years or even 4-5, it depends on the care and type of flower. But it is better to let them bloom fully in the third year, since early flowering, on the contrary, will bring more benefit than harm.

In the first year the buds appear, cut them all off. In the second year, leave only one bud, and when it begins to bloom, cut it off as short as possible. Then examine the flower to see if it matches the variety. If the match is not complete, also leave one bud for the next year, and so on until complete identity is achieved.

This often happens even in the 4-5th year.

Why don't peonies bloom after transplanting?

The most common reasons for lack of flowering: incorrectly selected place for planting (little light), incorrect planting depth, improper care(little moisture or nutrients) or improper shelter for the winter.

Read more in the article about caring for and growing peonies.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. PLANTING PEONIES IN OPEN GROUND - REVIEW!

2. CARE OF PEONIES - HOW TO GROW A HEALTHY FLOWER?

3. REPRODUCTION OF HERBAL PEONIES – ALL WAYS!

4. TREE PEONIES: PLANTING AND CARE!

5. HOW TO TRANSPLANT AND PROPAGATE TREE PEONIES?

6. VARIETIES AND VARIETIES OF PEONIES, WHICH IS BEAUTIFUL?

7. BLUE AND BLUE PEONIES: DO THERE EXIST?

We wish you a successful transplant and speedy flowering!