Small sauna with your own hands. Variety of sauna types

City residents, with a busy pace of life and an eternal lack of time, simply have no time to go to a sauna or bathhouse. But if you have a sauna at home, you can always find time to use it. Why do apartments have saunas and not baths? It’s much easier to make a sauna: you don’t need to think about draining water, which spills out a considerable amount during bath procedures, and about steam, which is more than enough in a Russian bath. In addition, sauna connoisseurs say that it is possible to achieve real light steam, which has a beneficial effect on the body, only with the help of. In apartments, any heating devices on wood and solid fuels are prohibited: the risk of fire is too great. Therefore, if you want to steam in your apartment, build a mini-sauna.

Sauna for an apartment: types

You can install a ready-made sauna in your apartment or make one yourself. Ready-made options today there are many. Different sizes, power and location options, different heating devices (based on heating elements or infrared emitters). There are saunas for apartments with a built-in shower cabin, and there are shower cabins with built-in electric heaters or IR emitters. There are really a lot of options, but high-quality saunas for an apartment cost a lot. Even very solid. And you can’t adjust them to the available space: either the dimensions fit or they don’t. Even if the area allows, according to the law, saunas no larger than 2x2 meters can be installed in apartments. So it turns out that with all the many options, the choice turns out to be not so great: either the size doesn’t fit, then you don’t like the equipment or design, or the price turns out to be prohibitive. All these problems are absent when you independently build a sauna in an apartment. But this also has its drawbacks: you will need to work hard. But the design, the stove, and the sizes are up to your taste and choice.

Ready-made saunas have one undeniable advantage - you can install a ready-made sauna in an apartment in a few hours.

There are several compact, portable sauna options for apartments:

Regardless of whether you will use a ready-made sauna in an apartment or make it yourself, in the room in which it will be located, it is necessary to carry out heat and vapor barrier work, as well as take care of high-quality ventilation (except for barrel saunas and portable options). Although there is not as much steam in the sauna as in a Russian bath, it is still enough for condensation to settle on the windows and walls. To effectively remove it, a set of measures is required to quickly remove excess moisture from the apartment.

If there is not enough space for a sauna, for example only one meter per meter, then you need to opt for an infrared sauna.

How to build a sauna in an apartment: preparatory work

The most important thing is to decide on the place where the sauna will be located in the apartment. The choice is actually not that wide - it could be a kitchen or a bathroom. In some options, you can install a sauna in place of the pantry, in the hallway or on the balcony. If you decide to make a sauna in the bathroom, no problems are foreseen, since approval in this case is not necessary and almost all communications are connected.

To set up a sauna in any other place, you will need to remodel the apartment, supply/discharge water, electricity, and organize a ventilation system. To install a sauna in an apartment, you will need approval from the following organizations:

• Fire Service;
• Sanitary and Epidemiological Service;
• Architectural supervision service (during redevelopment);
• Housing inspection.

All this is a serious investment of time and nerves, and sometimes money, but the pleasure is worth it. When choosing a location for installing a sauna in an apartment, remember that it should not be adjacent to external walls (due to the large temperature difference outer wall will get wet and bloom), at least one wall must be load-bearing.

After determining the location of the sauna, you need to solve the problem with electricity. No complications will arise in houses where there are electric stoves: the apartment electrical wiring in them is designed for 5-6 kW. The power of an electric furnace for a mini-sauna is rarely more than 3-4 kW. So - no problem, but it’s not advisable to use the stove with the electric heater on.

In homes with gas stoves, there are two options. First: take a low-power sauna stove. The maximum load in such houses is 3-4 kW, taking into account the fact that at least a refrigerator, TV and some other electrical appliances are included, the power of the stove should not exceed 2 kW. But with such power the sauna will gain required temperature no earlier than two hours later. You can speed up the process by carefully performing it. In this case, the estimated readiness time is reduced by three times! A small sauna of 2-3 cubic meters will heat up faster: at this power it will heat up within an hour.

In the second option, you will have to create a separate input to supply electricity to the heater or infrared emitter. Wires are used large section– 4-8mm and a special circuit breaker, which turns off the power at the slightest failure or problem. If you are not strong in electrical engineering, you will need, at a minimum, the advice of a specialist who understands connecting electrical equipment in conditions of high humidity.

Anyway everything electrical sockets and the switches should be located in the sauna cabin, and next to it.

The next step in building a sauna in an apartment will be installing a ventilation system. Most apartments have such a system, but you will need to check its functionality and, if necessary, clean it ventilation ducts. In the sauna cabin itself, for effective ventilation, there must be two ventilation holes. Fans can be built into them (must withstand temperatures up to 130 o C) for forced ventilation or close these holes with wooden flaps. In the simplest version, the dampers consist of two disks made of wood, in which sectors of approximately 90 degrees are cut out. The disks are movably fixed in the center, turning one relative to the other closes/opens the ventilation gap.

Next: decide on the size of the sauna, draw a plan indicating the exact dimensions, think about where and how the stove will be installed, where the electrical wiring will go, where the lamps will be, and the ventilation duct. Please note that regardless of location, the sauna cabin must have own ceiling. Up to the ceiling of the apartment minimum distance– 5-10 cm. Draw on the plan at what height and what size the shelves will be and where they will be located. To install the shelf at the required height, provide a cross beam - the shelves will be attached to it, think over a system to support it. In general, it is advisable to make five transverse straps: one at the bottom, one at the top (the ceiling of the cabin), another one at the level of the future shelf (this beam should be wider), and two more between them. This design will ensure sufficient rigidity and reliability of the cabin.

Also decide what size door you need, and what type it will be - wooden with a glass insert (glass is required according to safety regulations) or. After a detailed plan with all the details has been drawn up, you can begin installing the sauna in the apartment with your own hands.

How to make a sauna in an apartment: stages of construction

Before installation begins, you will need to treat all the walls of the room in which the sauna will be installed with antifungal impregnations (we have already written). When choosing disinfectants pay attention to their area of ​​application: they must be suitable for baths and saunas. All wood that will be used must also pass similar treatment, but the compositions here are usually different, although they should also be suitable for rooms with elevated temperature conditions.

At the next stage, you need to build a wooden frame that corresponds to the dimensions of the selected room or part of it allocated for the sauna (its dimensions are indicated in your plan).

Do not forget that the ceiling of the sauna cannot be the ceiling of the apartment, therefore the upper trim of the cabin is at least 10-20 cm below the ceiling. In this gap, ventilation ducts from the cabin will be located; in some cases, power supply wires may be laid in a special corrugated heat-resistant sleeve. For better thermal insulation It is advisable to cover the ceiling of the apartment above the sauna with thermal insulation mats and cover them on the side of the room with foil material.

The distance between the frame guides is usually 50-60 cm. You can determine exactly after purchase heat-insulating material: Thermal insulation mats should be 2 cm wider than the distance between the guides. In this case, the thermal insulation becomes dense and does not require special effort on consolidation. At this stage, they also lay wiring in a heat-resistant corrugated hose to the places where the stove and fans are supposed to be installed. The wire must also be in a heat-resistant sheath. If necessary, ventilation ducts are removed at the same time.

After completion of construction wooden frame In order to maintain the temperature in the sauna as long as possible, we insulate the walls and ceiling of the cabin with heat-insulating materials. Most often used basalt wool, but in connection with recent research in saunas and baths, it is better to use quilted mats, in the production of which synthetic binders are either not used at all, or their quantity is minimal. The thickness of the insulation depends on the characteristics of the chosen material, but in apartment conditions a layer of 10 centimeters is usually sufficient. Such mats are installed between the frame beams with little effort (they should be slightly wider than the distance between the frame beams) and hold tightly, but for additional reliable fixation they can be secured with special nails (sold in the same stores where thermal insulation is sold). When attaching thermal insulation, avoid the slightest gaps and cracks - heat will escape through them. And although this is not as important for saunas in apartments as, say, for detached buildings, it is still necessary to heat the air in the cabin, and not in the apartment. So be careful about thermal insulation.

The next step in building a home sauna in an apartment is vapor barrier (what is it for?). In this case, it is advisable to use one of the foil materials - it will simultaneously solve the problem of vapor barrier and also increase the degree of thermal insulation. The foil material is attached from bottom to top (shiny side into the room), the panels are applied with an overlap of 10-15 cm, the joints are carefully taped with foil tape. The panels themselves are attached to the frame using thin wooden planks, which are nailed either with thin nails or staples from a construction stapler. A counter lath is made on top of the foil (minimum 2 cm), which gives the gap necessary to thermal energy reflected from the foil, and the clapboard is already attached to this sheathing.

It is better to use deciduous trees for lining the sauna cabin - they do not emit resins, which in conditions high temperatures in the sauna can cause burns. Usually it is alder or linden. You can also use coniferous lining, but it must be deresined, and there is almost no such material on sale. If deresined material can be found, it is expensive. You can remove the resin yourself, but the process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. So hardwood is the best option.

When securing the lining, try to ensure that the metal parts are recessed or closed (heads of nails or other fasteners), otherwise they will cause burns.

Since a sauna in an apartment is usually small in size, the lining is filled horizontally - this way the room is optically enlarged, but this is not important. At the same stage, fans or ventilation dampers are installed and the door is hung. To ensure air flow, the door to the sauna should not reach the threshold or floor by 2-3 cm. This gap must be left, otherwise, due to the lack of sufficient oxygen in the steam room, after the procedures you will experience lethargy or even headache(in the worst case scenario, loss of consciousness).

Floor for apartment sauna usually made of tiles, so if the bathroom is chosen as the installation location, there is usually no need to change anything. In other options, you can make the floor wooden from boards hardwood, or on the subfloor.

The very last stage of building a sauna in an apartment is installing a stove and installing lamps. Electric heaters are simply placed in the chosen location. The only thing that is recommended is to make a protective wooden one at a distance of 5-10 centimeters around it, which will protect against accidental burns in confined spaces. It is also advisable to cover the wall behind the stove and/or in the immediate vicinity of it with heat-resistant material - tiles, bricks or asbestos sheets (not the most the best option from a health safety point of view).

These are all the main stages of building a sauna in an apartment. But before starting operation, the entire structure must be dried: on the first day, turn on the heater for an hour with the door open, on the second day - for two hours, then for a few more hours. And the final test will be to bring the temperature in the home mini-sauna to 85-90 o C. Only the next day can you steam “for real.”

Providing the “Construction Site Inspection” service, our specialist:

• Determines the distance (kilometers) from the production base to the construction site necessary for accurately calculating the cost of delivery.

• Determines the availability of access roads and the dimensions of the necessary transport.

• Prepares a description of the construction site with the provision of a drawing, including: the size of the site, the presence of fencing, the presence of gates and their width, the availability of space for storing the kit, the presence foreign objects, trees, foreign inclusions on the building site that can negatively affect the installation process, linking the structure to the site according to agreed reference points, proposal for the optimal choice of construction site, selection of the optimal foundation based on the characteristics of the soil and the difference in heights (if there is a ready-made foundation, checks the geometric dimensions, integrity and suitability for use)

• Transfers data to the architect and your manager.

Insulation of the ceiling and walls of the steam room with foil for baths (foil vapor barrier in the steam room) with a density of 45 g/m2, followed by finishing with aspen forcing (Extra grade) along the lathing, ceiling and floor skirting boards. Installation of a two-tier closed shelf made of aspen (Extra grade) (lower tier 300 mm wide, upper 600 mm wide). Installation of a solid aspen bath door with hinges, latch and handle.

Installation of the Termofor Angara 2012 Inox Vitra stove with a large translucent screen with a diagonal of 42 cm on a non-flammable base with fire protection screens, brickwork and installation of a chimney (sandwich pipe) made of stainless steel with delivery within 100 km from the Moscow Ring Road (for steam rooms with volumes from 8 to 18 cubic meters). Bath stones are included in the price!

Installation of the Varvara Palenitsa stove (with a shortened fuel channel) for a firebox from a steam room on a non-flammable base with the installation of fire barriers and installation of a chimney (sandwich pipe) made of stainless steel with delivery within 100 km from the Moscow Ring Road (for steam rooms with volumes from 12 to 24 m. cubic)

Installation of the Termofor Compact INOX 2013 stove with a large translucent screen diagonal 42 cm on a non-flammable base with the installation of fire screens, brickwork and installation of a chimney (sandwich pipe) made of stainless steel with delivery within 100 km from the Moscow Ring Road (for steam rooms with a volume of 6 or more up to 12 cubic meters). Bath stones are included in the price!

Wooden steps “open” (two steps) 1000x310 mm (+500 rubles for each additional step (h=135 mm)) - 1500 rubles.
Wooden steps “open” (two steps) 1500x310 mm (+750 rubles for each additional step (h=135 mm)) - 2500 rubles.
Wooden steps “open” (two steps) 2000x310 mm (+1000 rubles for each additional step (h=135 mm)) - 3000 rubles.

The joint between the joists (floor beams) and the framing beams is insulated with Shelter insulation, vapor barriers Izospan V are installed, a base for thermal insulation from boards is mounted with a pitch of no more than 300 mm, professional insulation TeploKnauf For a cottage TS 037 Aquastatik 1230x610x50 mm in slabs is installed in the space between the joists. hydro-windproof membrane Izospan A, insulation of the starting crown with Shelter insulation.

Insulated finishing crown Shelter insulation (the junction of the mauerlat/pediment and the roof deck), Izospan V vapor barriers are installed below along the purlins, then 20 mm lining is installed as finishing, professional insulation TeploKnauf is installed in the space between the purlins. For a cottage TS 037 Aquastatik 1230x610x50 mm in slabs, vapor barriers Izospan V are installed. Then it is installed roofing decking 20 mm and flexible tiles, which are part of the basic house kit.

Installation of a horizontal ceiling with 100 mm insulation (lining 20 mm, vapor barrier membrane Alentex D, logs 40x100 (150) mm, TechnoNIKOL GreenGuard universal mineral wool in slabs 1200x600x50 mm density 35-40 kg/m3, ventilation grilles are mounted in the gables).

Rafter system 50x100 (150) mm on “sliding supports”, Izospan V vapor barrier on the bottom, ceiling finishing along the rafters with 20 mm clapboard, insulation of the space between the rafters and the mauerlat, finishing with plinths; in the space between the rafters, professional insulation TeploKnauf For a cottage TS 037 Aquastatik 1230x610x50 mm in slabs, on top of a hydro-windproof membrane Izospan A, ventilated gap bar 45x45 mm (counter-lattice), lathing 20x90 mm, OSB-3 slabs 12 mm or lining 20 mm (without lathing), self-adhesive lining ANDEREP Ultra carpet along the entire roof plane, valley; metal end strips, cornice strips, junction strips (Fixer mastic No. 23 for the end parts) are mounted on top of the lining carpet; metal end, cornice, wall aprons (Fixer mastic No. 23 for the end parts); ridge aerator "TechnoNIKOL" and ridge-eaves tiles; flexible tiles; the ends of the gables and roof eaves are planed boards 20x90 mm; finishing of overhangs (and terrace ceiling) along the rafters with 20 mm clapboard (soffits).

Insulation of the junction of the mauerlat/pediment and the roof deck with Shelter insulation, 20 mm lining on top along the purlins, Izospan V vapor barrier, thickness is set by lathing 35x100 mm with a pitch of 600 mm, in the space between the lathing TeploKnauf insulation For a cottage TS 037 Aquastatik 1230x610x50 mm in slabs, on top of hydro - windproof membrane Izospan A, ventilated gap bar 35x35 mm (counter-lattice), lathing 20x90 mm, OSB-3 boards 12 mm or lining 20 mm (without lathing), self-adhesive lining ANDEREP Ultra carpet along the entire plane of the roof, valley; metal end, cornice, wall aprons (Fixer mastic No. 23 for the end parts); ridge aerator "TechnoNIKOL" and ridge-eaves tiles; flexible tiles. The ends of the gables and roof eaves are planed boards 20x90 mm.

Entrance steel door Yoshkar - Russian secure door economy class. It has everything you need to ensure safety and keep warm. The outer covering is a durable sheet of steel with a powder-polymer coating that is resistant to impact. external environment. Therefore, you can easily use this door as a street door, for example for a summer house. Pleasant interior decoration laminated panel in colors: golden oak, Carpathian spruce, wenge - allows, without a doubt, to install it in the apartment.

Composition: ridge strips, cornice/drip strips, end strips, abutment, valley; a three-layer diffusion vapor-permeable Alentex AS membrane is mounted on a solid base; step lathing under roof covering from a board 20x90 mm

The service includes: materials, delivery of materials, work.

Installation is carried out externally in a cable channel from the distribution panel with circuit breakers and differential switch to the source of consumption, output lighting 1 piece each in the room, one switch and two double sockets per room. Possibly supplemented standard solution additional sockets, outputs, switches, and lighting fixtures.

Specification of materials: Cable channel "ECO" 3D (pine) TDM; Cable VVGPng(A)-LS 3x1.5 0.66 kV GOST; Cable VVGPng(A)-LS 3x2.5 0.66 kV GOST; Box ShchRN-Pm-4 modules hinged plastic IP41 TDM; IEC Circuit breaker VA47-29 1P 6A 4.5kA x-ka C; IEK Automatic switch VA47-29 1P 16A 5kA x-ka C; Differential switch VD1-63 (UZO) 2P25A 30mA IEK; VS20-1-О-OS Switch 1kl 10A open installation OCTAVE pine; 0KTAVA Double external socket with grounding pine without cover 16A (ER021-K03-16-DC)

The cost of delivery is calculated from the production warehouse, depends on the selected configuration of the building and amounts to 70-145 rubles/km*.

Loading/unloading works are paid additionally

* If the construction site is located on the opposite side of Moscow from the TopsHouse production base, the route is calculated based on a run along the Moscow Ring Road on the shorter side.

A full-fledged euro window at an affordable price. The classic German profile of the sash bar provides good sound insulation and minimizes heat loss. Material - pine, laminated timber 60×75 mm, Single-chamber double-glazed window STIS 24 mm (4–16–4), Adjustable hinges OTLAV (Italy), DEVENTER seal (Germany), ELEMENTIS lock (Turkey). Reduced heat transfer resistance 0.37 m2*s/W: , Sound insulation 27 dB.

This mini-bath project will make it possible to rationally use the area of ​​the site and significantly save the budget.

On a total area of ​​only 6 (!) square meters. m placed a steam room and a relaxation room - albeit in a miniature, but functional form. Each room is 2.3 square meters. m is designed for use by two visitors, and selfish people will be especially at ease here. The steam room accommodates a full-size lounger, and the dressing room has a table for two and a bench. This mini-sauna made of timber will also be of good quality summer shower when you need to rinse off quickly. Moreover, it can easily be assembled with your own hands.

Time is money. With our “Malyutka” you save twice as much. Check and make sure.

• mini timber chamber drying 45 mm thick;
• profiled laminated timber 60 mm thick;
• profiled laminated timber 80 mm thick;
• profiled laminated timber 120 mm thick;
• double timber 190 mm thick;
• double laminated timber 250 mm thick.

• reliable foundation from blocks;
• flexible roofing tiles (3 colors to choose from: red, gray or brown);
• door and window units with all fittings provided for by the project.

• Installation of foundation of any complexity
• Turnkey electrical installation work – from RUB 1,200 m2
• Turnkey installation of heating, water supply, sewerage – from 2,800 rub.m2

Solid sand-cement foundation blocks with a section of 200x200x400 mm

Waterproofing made of roofing felt in 2 layers, laid on a support under the wedding flashing

Wedding salary (banding)

Naturally dried softwood timber with a cross section of 100x150 mm

External walls (17 crowns - wall height 2.295 m), pediments and partitions

Kiln-dried profiled planed mini-timber with a cross-section of 44x135 mm, humidity 12-14%, mounted using four-sided locking groove technology with a wind lock (warm windproof corner)

Profiled laminated veneer lumber with a cross section of 60/80x135 mm, humidity 12-14%, mounted using four-sided locking groove technology with a wind lock (warm windproof corner)

Floor beams (joists)

Naturally dried softwood board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, (600 mm pitch), fastened using metal supports timber

Floors (base for finished floor)

Chamber-dried tongue and groove board, 35 mm thick, humidity 12-14%, installed in an open manner.

If you plan to use this coating as a finishing coating, then additional work, such as reupholstering floors followed by puttying and sanding the floor for painting

Rafter system/purlins

Planed mini timber of chamber drying with a cross section of 45x140/190 mm, humidity 12-14%

Roof decking

Imitation of chamber-dried timber, 20 mm thick, humidity 12-14%

Multilayer flexible shingles SHINGLAS, Rancho series (color red, gray or brown), mounted on roofing decking

Wind and end strips

Entrance door (if provided by the project)

Wooden paneled door block made of solid pine 2080x880 mm with all necessary fittings, hinges, mortise lock

Interior doors(if provided for by the project)

Wooden paneled door block made of solid pine 2080x880 mm with all the necessary fittings; hinges, handle, magnetic fastener

Windows (if provided by the project)

Wood window unit made of solid pine with single glazing h - 1000 mm (equipped with handles and lock).

Platbands

Planed board R2-profile of chamber drying from softwood with a cross-section of 20x90 mm, humidity 12-14%

Floor and ceiling plinth

Wooden plinth 35x35 mm.




Name	Description
External walls (height according to the project), gables and partitions	Kiln-dried profiled planed mini-timber with a cross-section of 44x135 mm, humidity 10-12%
Purlins fulfilling the role rafter system	Kiln-dried profiled planed mini-timber with a cross-section of 44x135 mm, humidity 10-12%
	Profiled laminated veneer lumber with a cross section of 60 (80) x 135 mm, humidity 10-12%
Assembling the wall kit	+10% of the cost of the wall kit

A mini bathhouse for a summer residence is built when there is no space for a large bathhouse, or it is expensive to build. If the dacha is used by the owners only in the summer season, then the point of arranging a mini bathhouse is straightforward. A bathhouse requires three rooms: a dressing room, a steam room, and a washing room. If the bathhouse turns out to be very small, you have to wash in the steam room, then it is better to add a washing station, because soap in the steam room is not at all useful.

Construction of a mini sauna for a summer residence

Projects and sizes

You can find a project for a mini sauna at your dacha on the Internet or order it from professionals, or you can create it yourself. It is impractical to build without drawings or drawings, a project or a plan; it will turn out poorly if there is no construction experience. Mini baths that turned out to be successful are presented in the pictures; the construction of a mini bath with your own hands can be organized with minimal costs materials and time.

Successful projects of mini baths, embodied in nature:

Mobile mini sauna

There are no standards for the construction of mini baths; everyone is guided by their own taste, which is why there is such a variety of projects and implementations of mini baths for the dacha. Small compact bathhouses for small families are presented the best option for construction.



In the photo - mini sauna, view from the inside

Rational sizes of mini baths

Since there are no standards or guidelines for sizes, you need to use common sense. If you have built a bathhouse, and washing in it is extremely uncomfortable and cramped, then you made a mistake already at the project stage.

When you build a mini sauna with your own hands, it, like a large one, requires the following zones:

• dressing room, also known as a relaxation room, its comfortable size is 1.5 x 2 m;
• shower or washing room, so that two people can turn around, 1×1 or 1×1.5-2m;
• steam room – no more than 1.5 x 2 m, but no less.

The fourth zone in the mini-bath is combined with the first, the dressing room, otherwise it won’t be a mini-bath, but just a sauna. The height of the mini-bath must be such that a tall person can wash himself, that is, at least 2 m. Therefore, a project is needed to eliminate obvious errors and inconsistencies.

Materials and technologies for building a bathhouse

Having your own dacha plot allows a city dweller to break out of the concrete jungle of the city and be closer to nature. Unlike country house country house usually miniature, so it will give the same pleasure as a large one, a mini bathhouse, compact, decorated with soul. Industry building materials is developing rapidly, and even in such an ancient field as wood construction, new technologies appear every year, take, for example, laminated timber or frame houses.

Selecting the best materials

The owner himself chooses the projects from which material to build his mini bathhouse summer cottage. Stone baths are more durable, but then this is already a fundamental structure where it is necessary to provide communications, water drainage, etc. A compact bath is built from materials that are cheap and practical, relatively durable, and meet sanitary requirements:

• wood (logs, rounded logs, timber, laminated timber, carriages);
• wall materials;
• heat-steam-waterproofing roll or sheet products;
• roofing materials;
• finishing products.

A country house and a bathhouse for it should be in harmony with each other, and if the house is made of wood, then it is advisable to build a bathhouse from it. Most quick way construction, house and bathhouse, it is frame. It consists of constructing a light, durable wooden frame made of timber on a foundation, using cheap wall and finishing materials, wall finishing, and thermal insulation.

We offer a video from which you will learn how to quickly and cheaply build a sauna with your own hands

Modern finishing, roofing, thermal insulation materials They are perfect for a frame structure, be it a country house or a bathhouse. A frame mini bathhouse is good because it is quickly erected and quickly disassembled.

Technologies for the construction of compact structures

When it is decided that a mini sauna for a dacha, built with your own hands, will cost less, then after choosing materials you should understand the technology. When deciding to build a mini sauna from logs, the technological stages listed below are assumed.

1. Site selection.
2. Laying the foundation.
3. Construction of a log house.
4. Roof construction.
5. Flooring.
6. Insulation.
7. Finishing work.

Even though the bathhouse is a small structure, the stages and quality of work are similar to those of a large construction site. A popular construction method is frame construction; here it is necessary to follow a certain sequence.

1. Site selection.
2. Laying the foundation.
3. Construction of the frame.
4. Raising walls.
5. Roof construction.
6. Flooring.
7. Insulation.
8. Finishing work.

If you decide to build a mini bathhouse from wood, and choose a frame technology, then you will build the structure quickly, only here precision is required when constructing the frame. If your material is logs or beams, then construction will take more time and it makes sense to increase the size of the bathhouse.



Option for a compact mini bath

Mini baths made of brick, expanded clay concrete or foam concrete are also built, they have their own, somewhat different from wooden materials, construction technologies. It is only recognized that the best material for a bathhouse is wood.

Compact baths are built when there is a great need for them, but only in the summer season. If most The bathhouse has been idle for years, then there is no need to make it capital and large. If you are satisfied with the mobile option, then a solid foundation is not required; it is enough to place the bathhouse on concrete pillars located along the perimeter of the structure.

Until recently, a do-it-yourself sauna in an apartment was an impossible dream. Now, despite the hassle of obtaining permits, this idea is no longer unrealistic. Moreover, the arrangement of a sauna in multi-storey building is permissible, and the design is regulated by regulatory documents:

1. "Architecturally - planning solutions multi-apartment residential buildings" (SP 31 - 107 - 2004)
2. “Residential multi-apartment buildings” (SNiP 31 – 01 – 2003).

Designing saunas for use in apartment building provides for the implementation of a number of recommendations based on the provisions of these documents:

• For heating, only a special factory-made oven is allowed, with automatic shutdown at 130⁰ and after 8 hours of continuous operation;
• It is necessary to install a deluge for spraying water or a perforated pipe with a connection outside the sauna to the internal water supply system;
• Steam room area – within 8 – 24 m ² ;
• Wood is used only with special impregnation, which resists rotting and fire.

Who should I coordinate with?

The design of a home sauna in an apartment, depending on the country and region, must be agreed upon with certain institutions and organizations:

1. State Fire Service;
2. Housing Inspection;
3. Sanitary and Epidemiological Service;
4. Office of Rospotrebnadzor;
5. Inspectorate of the State Architectural and Construction Supervision.

It is best to further clarify the list of institutions and services for approval in the region of residence and installation of the sauna.



Choosing equipment for a home sauna

Sauna options

Before you start arranging a bathhouse in a city apartment, you should also collect information about the types and types of saunas, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the methods of their installation and construction. There are three options to get a sauna at home:

• Purchase a panel or prefabricated sauna;
• Order the design in accordance with the conditions “on site”;
• Make your own sauna.

Prefabricated (ready) saunas

Ready-made or prefabricated saunas are produced in several types. For those who have the skills repair work and handling ordinary tools, it is not difficult to assemble the kit yourself. Self-tapping screws are provided for fastening the shields. And you just need to follow the attached instructions with photographs. In addition, if you move, prefabricated panel structures can be taken with you or transported to the dacha. The disadvantages include the paucity of variety of modifications and configurations, which, moreover, rarely coincide with the nuances of the apartment.

The best prefabricated saunas deservedly include products from the Swedish manufacturer Tylo and the Finnish supplier Harvia. Such structures, consisting of modules (80 cm wide), are mounted without a floor on a steel frame. Losses usable space cannot be avoided if the area for the sauna is not a multiple of 80. Also, ventilation holes should be taken into account, so the sauna is not installed close to the wall. Factory designs, for example, from Tylo, differ in that they do not have a vapor barrier. As a result, the efficiency of the insulation decreases and the service life of the lining is reduced.

As finishing material Swedes and Finns use coniferous wood that is pre-treated and does not contain resin. Domestic structures are sheathed with linden wood.

Which stove to choose for a home steam room?

One of important elements any steam room is a stove or heater. Scandinavian companies supply popular models to the Russian market - durable, elegant and economical. The production of saunas for the Finnish company Harvia is associated with the centuries-old traditions of this production. High Quality The manufacturer manages to achieve its products and special safety thanks to innovative technologies and high-quality materials used in production. The Combi model stands out in the Finnish manufacturer’s product line. It is interesting because it can be used in 2 modes: Russian bath and Finnish sauna.

On Russian market The Finnish company Saunatec is also represented, which supplies Viki and Helo stoves. Also, in the catalog of this company there is a “president’s stove” - a Fantasy stove, specially made for the President of Finland.



such a prefabricated sauna will fit in any not too cramped city apartment

How to assemble a ready-made “apartment” sauna?

Prefabricated structures are equipped with a stove, lattice furniture, lamps, electrical wiring, and in some configurations, a shower. When installing panels, the joints should be covered with foil, ensuring thorough sealing. The cabin roof is also mounted from panels. On concrete surface The floor is covered with facing material, and lattice ladders are placed on top. Then you should connect the sauna to the ventilation and electrical systems.

• Placement of the structure: in close proximity to the bath or shower;
• Mandatory presence of a waterproofing base: two layers of waterproofing, then a concrete base ();
• Styling facing material It is recommended to perform this before installation of the structure.

If the sauna is made to order, then the customer has a number of advantages over the buyer of a factory design. The dimensions correspond to the room and conditions, as well as the wishes of the customer. In addition, you can order any configuration, equip it with equipment and accessories. An undoubted advantage is also the fact that the panels can be covered with plasterboard. This will allow you to perform external finishing saunas according to overall design living space. This structure is installed within 1-2 days according to the same principle as the cabin purchased for assembly.

Among the latter and current trends experts note the use of 1 or more walls made of thermally tempered glass sheets with a thickness of more than 10 mm. It has also become fashionable and prestigious to use aluminum profiles and glass in their combination.



We build a sauna in an apartment from scratch

Regarding the question of how to build a sauna in an apartment, it is worth noting that this option is cheaper than others. Although the construction process differs in labor and time costs.

Basic elements

• For the cabin frame, wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60x60 mm are used. The ceiling and floor are the main places for attaching the frame posts. The installation height of 2.2 meters is quite sufficient; the remaining space between the cabin ceiling and the common ceiling is often used as mezzanines.
• For external cladding, lining made of deciduous or coniferous wood is used. It hermetically seals several layers of insulation, a layer of polyethylene and foil. Softwoods must be treated and must not contain resin. Monitoring the tightness of the entire structure is mandatory.
• The internal part of the frame (walls and ceiling) is also lined with clapboard with “filling” for thermal and moisture insulation. It is best to tile the floor ceramic tiles, and place wooden grates on top of the tiles.
• To keep warm, it is better to make a door to the cabin small sizes(70x190 cm). It is usually made from solid massif tree. For safety reasons, it is recommended to make the door with a glass insert or made entirely of thermal glass.
• When installing a sauna, it is extremely important to create a good one. Thanks to this, people in the sauna receive an influx of oxygen, the steaming regime is regulated and humidity is reduced. After the session, the sauna is ventilated and safety is ensured wood material finishing.

electrical safety

It is important to ensure the safety of the electrical part of the sauna. To do this, you must fulfill the mandatory requirements:

1. Select power cable for connecting the heater to the distribution panel (with a cross section of 4-8 mm2);
2. It is recommended to install only hidden electrical wiring(heat-resistant cable under the casing);
3. Mandatory grounding and automatic protection;
4. Use waterproof lamps. In addition, to avoid burns, it is recommended to cover light sources with protective wooden screens.

In houses where they are installed gas stoves, you should carefully consider the size and resource intensity of the sauna. Since in such houses there are restrictions on power consumption (max. 3-4 kW).

In houses with electric stoves ( maximum power electricity 5-6 kW), a stove-heater of 3-4 kW will not create difficulties with the power grid. It is recommended to connect the stove to the electric stove phase. To avoid creating peak loads, you should not use electric stove while the heater is operating.

Video: building a sauna in a city apartment

Variety of sauna types

Mini saunas

Along with the “classic” sauna cabins, there are mini saunas. They are a structure made of a cedar barrel and a steam generator. A compact mini-sauna can easily be placed in the bathroom of an apartment or country house. It takes up very little space - about 1 m².

Moreover, she has healing properties. Experts note that thanks to sessions in such a sauna, weight is reduced, the skin gains firmness and elasticity, and cellulite goes away. The installation of such a bathhouse is usually carried out by the companies that sell them.



Power consumption is also very attractive - about 2 kW. The small sauna is equipped with a control panel and a thermometer. Some models are additionally equipped with a system for spraying balms.


Infrared Solutions

Very popular in Lately enjoys infrared sauna. The basis of the infrared cabin is the use of infrared radiation and its properties. Infrared waves conduct heat, which penetrates through the body and does not create additional stress on the cardiovascular system. With profuse sweating infrared radiation removes toxic substances, fats and excess fluid from the body.



Turkish steam rooms for home

Among the most exotic and popular saunas is the hammam. Turkish bath in an apartment with large area and several levels – quite real.

• The height of the room is not less than 2.8 m;
• A domed ceiling is desirable;
• Hot and cold water supply, sewerage;
• Separate hood;
• Full steam and waterproofing.



The modern hammam in the apartment is equipped with tiles instead of marble. To maintain a constant temperature, a “warm floor” system is used. A steam generator is used to produce steam.

Video: sauna in an apartment is easy

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Discussion:

Marina said:

And we made a sauna in the apartment in the closet, although it’s not very close to the bathtub, across the entire hallway and corridor. But everything is as it should be and ventilation pipe with a fan that pulls everything into the toilet and at the same time circulates air in the sauna, and with a fire sprinkler (just in case). It’s true that it’s only sitting, but together with my husband we fit perfectly sitting. It's such beauty. Every Saturday now exercise - sauna, beer...