Manufacturing of concrete fences. Making a decorative concrete fence with your own hands Business plan for the production of decorative concrete fences

Among all the options for arranging fences, a concrete fence can rightfully be considered one of the most reliable. For country house or a dacha, the most suitable would be the so-called “Euro fence”. It is a structure made of concrete pillars with grooves into which concrete sections are inserted. At the same time, concrete sections, as a rule, have decorative front side simulating a natural stone, brick, with ornaments, mosaics and other architectural delights. Concrete sections may vary in color or may be painted after installation. Variety of textures and design solutions, as well as the relative cheapness of production and installation, have led to the fact that “Euro fences” are gaining popularity among summer residents and country residents. For those who want to save on the purchase of concrete sections or installation work, it will be useful to learn how to make a European fence with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of “Euro fences”

Advantages of Eurofences:

• Low cost.
• Variety of shapes and design solutions.
• Aesthetic appeal.
• Possibility to choose any height.
• Fire safety.
• Reliability and durability (up to 50 years).
• Speed ​​and ease of fence installation.
• Strength compared to wood and metal fences.
• Possibility of installation on any soil.
• Possibility of installation without a foundation.
• Possibility of installation on a site with a fairly steep slope.
• They don't take up much space.

Disadvantages of Eurofences:

• Poor ventilation of the area.
• Bulky design compared to wooden and metal fences.
• Exposure to temperature changes and movements of unstable soil. If some technical nuances are not followed during installation, then after wintering the fence may fall apart and sections may split.
• Smooth and uniform back side.

When choosing a fence for enclosure summer cottage or a country house, pay attention to some restrictions dictated by law. For example, it is prohibited to install any solid fences, including concrete fences, between neighboring areas. This is dictated by the fact that solid fences block the path of the wind, the site is not ventilated at the proper level, and also shade a large area of ​​the neighboring site, on which it is no longer possible to plant any useful plant, because without the sun it will not grow. In order not to quarrel with your neighbors, be sure to discuss it with them. Also note that the back side of the Eurofence is not aesthetically attractive; it does not have a textured shape, but it can be painted or plastered with decorative plaster.

Making Eurofences with your own hands

There is nothing complicated in the production of concrete sections for Eurofences, so the Eurofence can be completely made directly on the construction site with your own hands. This will require special equipment and materials. Whether it will be economical to make depends on how much needs to be done concrete slabs. If there are only 20 - 50, then it makes sense to buy slabs from the manufacturer. If there are 200 - 1000 slabs, then, of course, it is more profitable to do everything yourself, even taking into account the purchase of a vibrating table.

For self-made Concrete slabs and poles for the eurofence will require certain tools and materials. You should not save money by replacing the required items with cheaper ones, since in the end the slabs will not be strong enough and will crumble in a few years.

What you will need:

• Steel rod for reinforcement: slabs - 4 mm, pillars - 8 mm;
• Crushed stone fraction from 2 to 6 mm;
• River sand, washed to remove impurities;
• Cement (not less than 500 grade);
• Concrete mixer;
• Plasticizer;

They are matrix forms with a pattern into which concrete is poured and, when hardened, acquires the necessary relief of the front side. Forms must be durable, resistant to deformation and chemicals, wear-resistant, smooth and able to withstand heat treatment. That is why the most common materials for molds are PVC and ABS plastic.

When making European fences, you should not use granot sieving instead of crushed stone, regular sand instead of river and fiberglass mesh for reinforcement instead of steel rod. All this will lead to the final product being of very mediocre quality.

As for cement, using grade 500 will be the most ideal, and although the standard allows the use of at least M300, in fact, slabs made from grade 300 cement will be significantly less durable.

Must use. It is necessary for compacting the concrete in the mold and removing air bubbles. Again, in some sources you may come across a recommendation not to use a vibrating table, saying that it is enough to knock with a hammer on the door or other support on which the form stands, and that will be enough. Although some “would-be specialists” claim that such a European fence will last a long time, in fact it is “long” for no more than 2 seasons.

Production of concrete slabs - “instant formwork”

There are two ways to make concrete slabs for a European fence. The first of them is “instant formwork”. Its essence lies in the fact that concrete is poured into a mold, then it is shaken on a vibrating table, after which the product is immediately laid out on a pallet, where it gains final strength. This method is cheaper and more profitable, since one or two forms for Eurofence can be used for a large batch of slabs. I made a slab, washed the mold, poured a new one, etc.

Stages of work:

• Fiberglass mold with durable metal frame install on a solid flat surface vibrating table Don't forget to check the horizontal position of the form with a level.
• Inside, grease the mold with oil and diesel fuel or another form lubricant. This is necessary so that the concrete does not stick to the surface of the form. As a result, the front surface of the concrete slab will be perfectly smooth and even, without chips or burrs.
• Prepare the concrete mixture: load crushed stone into a concrete mixer and rinse it with water, then drain the water, add sand, cement and water, mix. The ratio of ingredients depends on the specific manufacturing technology of the exact type of fence you want. Therefore, the recipe is either purchased from the manufacturing company, or developed through trial and error. Let's give an example concrete mixture: 3 parts sand + 2 parts crushed stone + 1 part cement + plasticizer. The consistency can be adjusted by adding water gradually.
• Pour the concrete mixture into the mold, filling it halfway.
• We turn on the vibrating table and shake the concrete.
• After the first stage of shaking, we install a reinforcing mesh, which we weld from a steel rod 4 - 6 mm in diameter. Instead of welding, it is better to use binding wire, this guarantees that the frame will not move.

• Pour the concrete mixture to the edges of the form.
• We remove the excess with a long rule, trying to make the surface smooth.
• Turn on the vibrating table and shake the concrete mixture. When air bubbles stop appearing on the surface, the vibrating table can be turned off.
• Immediately place the finished product on a pallet, tapping it out of the mold. On the pallet it will continue to harden and gain strength.
• We rinse the mold with water, lubricate the surface with oil again and repeat the plate production cycle.

In the process of manufacturing concrete slabs in this way, plasticizers and other additives are necessarily used to accelerate the hardening of concrete. Also, if necessary, you can add coloring pigments to the mixture, then the slab will acquire the required shade, which will remain permanent, unlike paint.

Do not add fuel oil, fuel from the furnace or engine oil. This reduces the quality of the products.

This accelerated technology for the production of concrete slabs allows for significant savings, but the quality of the products suffers from this, there can be a lot of defects, chips on the front surface and uneven geometry of the slab itself. Therefore, when producing “for oneself” they try not to use such technology. After all, you want to get a durable product.

Manufacturing of concrete slabs - “exposition”

The second method of making concrete slabs is called “exposure”. It consists in the fact that the product remains in shape for at least 2 days and only then is removed from the mold. This method is more expensive due to the fact that you have to use a large number of forms at the same time. But the final product turns out to be much stronger and more durable, and also has a perfectly smooth front side without defects or chips.

Dimensions of concrete sections: length 2000 mm, height 300 mm or 500 mm. The thickness depends on the shape, from 50 to 100 mm.

Stages of work:

• The fiberglass mold is installed not just on the vibrating table, but first on stretcher trays, and then the stretcher on the vibrating table. When a mold filled with concrete is moved to a drying area, it may become deformed or even crack under the weight of the concrete. That is why the mold is placed on a pallet. The stretcher is made of timber with a cross section of 60 mm or metal elements. The load-bearing elements of the pallets are ideally adjusted to the dimensions of the mold so that they last longer.

Important! If the form has jagged edges, then it is required to provide rigid support for the side walls and bottom, as well as each individual element. For this you can use auxiliary materials: gypsum and polyurethane foam.

• The weight of the stretcher tray should not exceed 15 kg.
• So, after placing the mold in the pallet, and the pallet on the vibrating table, inner surface Grease the molds with oil. If the form has a corrugated or simply uneven shape, then instead of oil it is necessary to use special lubricant K-222. It is required to compensate for technological violations. Another advantage of using special lubricant K-222 is that the front surface of the Eurofence slab turns out to be perfectly smooth, like marble.
• Preparing the concrete mixture. The recipe differs from the previous method, because... there is no need to use a large amount of plasticizers and other additives - the concrete will flow in natural conditions.
• We install the reinforcing mesh into the mold.
• Pour the concrete mixture, filling the form halfway.
• Turn on the vibrating table and shake the mixture.
• Add the mixture to the top and skim off the excess.
• Shake using a vibrating table. We make sure that all the air is removed.

• Then we transfer the form along with the stretcher to the place where the workpiece will dry. IN industrial production usually subject the workpiece heat treatment. In ordinary “handicraft” conditions this is not necessary. But temperature regime nevertheless it is necessary to comply. Minimum permissible temperature environment in the manufacture of concrete slabs +5 - +9 °C. The place for the concrete to harden can be a barn, shed or storage room.
• Concrete hardens in molds within 2 days. When it has set sufficiently (6 to 12 hours after pouring), the surface must be sanded either by hand or using a sander.
• The next stage is stripping. It is produced either manually or mechanized. One of the common methods is to heat the mold to +50 °C, it will expand and the concrete blank can be easily removed. Can be used for heating regular bath with water heater. But such difficulties are not necessary. If the mold has been greased well, you can remove the workpiece by simply tapping it.

• The extracted concrete slabs are stored indoors under a canopy in stacks for further drying and strengthening. This usually takes from 18 to 28 days depending on weather conditions.
• After the concrete has completely hardened, the slabs can be used to construct a European fence.

Please note that concrete slabs made using the “exposure” method are of higher quality, stronger, more durable, and more beautiful. Although the technology itself takes more time. After stripping, the form can be washed and used in the next cycle.

Manufacturing of concrete pillars for eurofence

Eurofence posts are reinforced concrete products with grooves into which fence sections are inserted. The surface is usually smooth or textured, if required by the fence design. To make poles, fiberglass or metal molds are used.

How to make poles for a European fence:

• The displacer must be secured at the bottom of the mold in a stationary state. It is the displacer that forms the groove in which the panels are fixed.
• Grease the surface of the mold.
• The total length of the pole should not exceed 3600 mm.
• Inside the mold we insert a reinforcement frame made of steel rod 8 mm in diameter.
• Fill the mold with concrete mixture.
• Turn on the vibrating table and wait until the air is completely removed from the mixture.
• The workpiece hardens in the mold for 2 days, then we remove it from the mold and leave it to gain strength for a month.

You can also do the installation of a European fence yourself. To do this you will need 2 - 3 people, a drill, a tape measure and patience. If the sections are heavy, then you can use a tripod on which to hang concrete slabs, this will make the work easier. It will also be useful if the height of the fence is more than 1.8 m. By the way, the height of the Euro fence can be made to any height: from 50 cm to 3 m.

• First of all, we mark the area. This is perhaps the most important stage of work. If you make a mistake at the marking stage, correcting it later will be either difficult or impossible. We check all angles, heights and even lines.
• We insert pegs in the corners of the markings and pull the construction cord, which we will then use to guide us.

• In the place of the corner post we drill a hole to a depth of 800 mm. The depth is calculated as follows: installation depth of the post is 700 mm + 100 mm of bedding.
• We compact the soil and add 50 - 70 mm of sand and crushed stone.
• We install a pillar on top of the crushed stone cushion.
• Carefully measure the evenness of the post, its height and angle of inclination. For convenience, the pole can be fixed in the well using rubble bricks or construction waste.
• When the post is perfectly aligned, pour it into the well concrete mortar to fix it. We wait until the solution sets. This will take 2 - 6 hours.
• We measure exactly 2060 mm from the installed pillar and drill a hole for the second pillar. Be sure to follow the cord.
• We compact the base in the same way and perform backfilling.
• Now we take one lower section of the eurofence and install it in the groove of the already fixed post. Typically the groove depth is 40 mm, the slab should fit into the groove to a depth of 30 mm.
• We align the location of the concrete section along the cord.

• Then we insert the post into the second hole and slide it onto the section so that it fits 30 mm into the groove of the post.
• We fix the post in this position by making a spacer with rubble bricks. If necessary, the pole can be supported with spacers from above.
• Then we measure another 2060 mm from the pillar and drill the well again.
• We repeat the procedure for installing the pillar and section according to the algorithm: drill a well, perform backfilling, install the concrete section in the groove of the previous pillar, install a new pillar and slide it onto the section, fix the pillar with rubble.

• When all the pillars and lower sections are installed, we once again check the evenness of the location: the height of the pillars, the vertical, the distance.

• Now we install all the remaining concrete sections into the eurofence. To do this you will need 2 - 3 people or a tripod. We lift the slabs to the height of the fence and place them in the grooves of the pillars. We make sure that the sections are not skewed and that they are located exactly one above the other.
• After all sections of the fence have been installed to their full height, we check the vertical and horizontal again.
• If the test results are satisfactory, fill all the pillars with concrete mortar.
• After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to fix the sections in the grooves of the pillars, otherwise they may sway in the wind and hit the fences or grind unpleasantly. To do this with back side It is necessary to push wooden wedges between the section and the pillar.

That's it - the European fence is ready.

Nuances and errors of installing Euro fences

1. Why can’t the pillars be filled with concrete until all sections are installed? Because this way it is possible to correct the position of the pillars and the fence as a whole: move it here, tilt it there, etc. If the pillars are fixed with concrete, then it is impossible to correct the mistakes.
2. Why not fix the concrete sections in the pillars using concrete mortar? Because such a fence will most likely collapse. As a result of temperature and humidity changes, concrete will expand and contract. If you do not allow the slab to move freely along the groove of the post, it will simply collapse or crack. Also take into account ground movements. Somewhere the soil may sag or, on the contrary, swell; a slab that is not “tightly fixed” will simply change its position, moving inside the groove. Wooden wedges will not hold the slab between the pillars so rigidly.

1. Why not install all the posts first and then install the concrete sections into the grooves? This installation option is possible; this is how professional teams most often install it. But this method is associated with a lot of disadvantages: you missed the markings and that’s it. Also, too small a gap between the section and the pillar does not give room for error. It is much easier to install pillars, focusing strictly on the dimensions of the already installed slab.
2. Why not install all the typesetting sections in one span at once? It is possible, but then distortions are possible. It turns out that one section is maximally loaded and puts pressure on the pillars, while the rest are not yet.

1. IN this issue Opinions differ. The manufacturers of European fences themselves claim that there is no need to make a foundation. But in fact, everything is determined by the conditions of the site and soil.
2. How to install a corner post on a bend? In corners and corners, install two pillars side by side. One is positioned with a groove towards the previous post and panel, and the second is positioned with a groove in the direction in which the fence turns.
3. The installation of a Eurofence cannot be carried out in winter.

1. The installation height of each pillar is calculated individually. In an uneven area, the pillars will be higher. In order for the concrete section to be positioned strictly horizontally in the grooves of the pillars, it is necessary to insert wooden beam. It will act as a support under the slab. The length of the beam is calculated very accurately. If its height is not enough, wooden chips and wedges are placed between it and the slab.

You can build a European fence in about a week or two, if the concrete slabs are ready. Be sure to follow the technology and recommendations of the manufacturers. The main thing is that the fence survives the first winter. It will immediately reveal all installation shortcomings, if any.

Eurofences photos - examples

When choosing a fence for a summer cottage, each owner tries to find the most durable and durable design, which does not need to be regularly repaired and tinted.

At the same time, I want the cost of a fence for a dacha to be affordable for the home budget, and its installation does not require the use of special lifting equipment. All of the above requirements are met by concrete sectional fences - easy-to-assemble and reliable structures that can be found in every dacha area today.

It’s not difficult to make a concrete fence for your dacha on your own, since all types of fencing structures are represented on the market. necessary technologies and materials.

During Soviet times the only option there was such a fence reinforced concrete slab– heavy and inexpressive design, more suitable for industrial enterprises and warehouses.

Nowadays, the most popular are fences made of small 2-meter sections, which are installed in the grooves of concrete pillars. The modular principle of their construction allows the owner to easily select not only the height, but also appearance fence For this purpose, two types of concrete sections are produced - solid and openwork (transmitting light).

There is a huge variety of texture options for such concrete slabs, which allows you to build a fence that imitates brickwork, natural stone or surface wooden board. Upper part A sectional concrete fence is usually finished with a decorative section of a curved outline.

Manufacturers sectional fences try to give their products original look and hide visible longitudinal seams.

To do this, they make sections in which the seam runs along the uneven joint of the “masonry”. As a result decorative fence made of concrete looks like a single monolith, made of wild stone. The pillars connecting the slabs are also not ignored and are cast in forms that imitate a three-dimensional stone texture.

Except for fence sections, in which only one side has decorative texture, today they sell double-sided fence slabs on the market. A fence made from them looks equally beautiful both outside and inside.

Cost of sectional concrete fences fully consistent with their durability and strength. In terms of a 50-year service life, such a dacha fencing will cost no more than a metal profile, mesh or picket fencing.

Estimated prices for a standard section 2 meters long and 0.5 meters high are in the average range from 350 to 600 rubles.

For a smooth pole designed to install four panels (total height 2 meters), manufacturers ask from 600 rubles. Exactly the same pole, but with a textured surface will cost you an average of 1,400 rubles.

Making a sectional concrete fence with your own hands

The simplicity and relatively low cost of cast concrete technology, as well as the availability of the necessary equipment on the market, make it possible to manufacture fence sections yourself.

It should be noted that the cost of forms and a vibrating table will only pay off if the length of the fence is at least 120 meters (land area of ​​8 acres or more).

To get started, you need to purchase three or four single-sided forms for concrete fences made of PVC or fiberglass. Depending on the quality and thickness of the plastic, their cost ranges from 2000 rubles. for 1 piece The cost of a mold with grooves 2.8 meters long ranges from 3,500 to 4,200 rubles.

Make quality fences concrete blocks and pillars are impossible without using. On it, the concrete mixture is well compacted and fills all the elements of the textured surface of the form. The average price of a vibrating table ranges from 23 to 37 thousand rubles.

In addition, making a concrete fence requires the use of a concrete mixer. It will be needed not only for preparing the casting mixture for molds, but also for mixing concrete for embedding pillars.

Stages of installation of a concrete sectional fence

A team of three people can easily handle this work, since installing concrete sections into the guide grooves of the pillars does not require the use of a crane.

For installation you will need the following tools and materials:

• Shovel and crowbar;
• Construction level and cord;
• 10-16 wooden template slats (each length is 201 cm). They are necessary to accurately record the distance between concrete pillars when installing them.

If the installation of a prefabricated concrete fence for a dacha will be carried out on an area with a large slope, then for precise definition The height of the fence steps will require a level.

A sectional concrete fence is assembled with your own hands in two stages.

The first includes the following operations:

• A beacon cord is stretched along the perimeter of the fence at a height of 0.4-0.5 m from the ground;
• To the depth of concreting the pillars, holes are dug in increments of 2 meters;
• A pillar is lowered into each hole, leveled with a level and fixed with large crushed stone or fragments of brick;
• A wooden template strip is inserted into the groove of the installed post, and its second end rests against the groove of the next fence post.
• Using the building level, which is applied to the template rail, the depth level of the pillars is determined and, if necessary, soil is added under them or the hole is further deepened.
• After making sure that the distance between adjacent pillars in the upper and lower parts is the same (the template rail does not fall into the groove, but is held in it), the pillars are fixed in the hole and proceed to the second stage of installation.

• Mix a concrete mixture of sand, fine crushed stone, cement in a ratio of 3:2:1 and fill all the holes with it.
• After concreting with a level, the verticality of the pillars is checked again.
• Installation of fence panels in summer can begin 1 day after concreting, and in spring or autumn after 3-4 days.

Often the installation of a concrete fence is completed by painting the slabs. To do this, use a primer for concrete and facade paint with the addition of the desired color pigment.

However, this work is not necessary, since even unpainted concrete walls can withstand atmospheric moisture and temperature changes.

Modern fencing is not just a means of protecting a dacha from intrusion, but also an opportunity to declare one’s status and good taste. The easiest way to make a reliable decorative fence with your own hands is from prefabricated concrete sections.

Decorative concrete fence with stacked posts

What are fence sections?

Decorative fences are made from the same material as regular concrete fences. The main difference between decorative sections is the production method. Using specialized casting molds, concrete panels are given different textures or openwork shapes.

This is what concrete sections for a concrete fence look like

Dividing the fencing fabric into separate sections facilitates the process of transportation and loading and unloading operations. The installation of the fence is also greatly simplified and accelerated. Another advantage of decorative sectional fencing is the ability to adjust the height from low flower beds inside the dacha to impregnable four-meter fences.

Advantages and disadvantages of a decorative fence

Among positive qualities sectional fencing is worth noting:

Finding flaws in such a fence is difficult, but still possible:

1. Concrete fences are expensive compared to wood fences.
2. Another disadvantage is the likelihood of purchasing low-quality products from unscrupulous manufacturers.

A concrete fence will be truly reliable and durable if raw materials are used for its production High Quality and take a responsible approach to the production process.

Shape and Pattern for Concrete Fence Sections

Forms for decorative fences

Decorative fence panels are produced by vibration casting from high-quality Portland cement, purified sand, gravel, and reinforcement. Often in cement mixture Dyes are added to give different colors to the finished products.

Direct casting is carried out in specialized molds-matrices, which give sections various textures and patterns. Forms for sections can be purchased at hardware stores, ordered online, or made according to an individual sketch.

Types of forms for decorative sections

Matrices for concrete panels can be made of various materials:

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

One of the most popular and available options- PVC matrices.

They are flexible, provide high quality finished concrete panels and are fireproof. Such forms are often used in premises that have high fire safety requirements.

Polyvinyl chloride forms are presented in a wide range and have a good service life (can withstand about 100-150 production cycles).

Production of decorative fences

The process of making decorative sections is simple; the main difficulty lies in preparation necessary materials and tools.

Necessary equipment

• forms for concrete sections;
• concrete mixer;
• vibrating table for forming concrete products;
• vibrating sieve for cement and sand;
• trays for drying finished sections.

To produce concrete sections on a production scale, the most expensive cost is purchasing the molds. A lot of them are required to ensure variety and a normal volume of products per shift. To make decorative sections for your own needs, you can buy one or two molds, and they are not very expensive.

Another important tool to create decorative sections - a vibrating table. With the help of vibrations, the concrete in the molds is compacted and gets rid of air bubbles and voids, which reduce the strength of the concrete structure. You can buy a vibration table, rent it, or make it yourself. On the Internet you can find ready-made drawings of a homemade vibrating table.

This is what a vibrating table for casting concrete products looks like

Attachments: from 2,000,000 rubles

Payback: from 24 months

Owners of their own homes, companies that own their own buildings, always fence private territory. It's about calmness and a feeling of security from prying eyes. One of the best ways fencing - decorative concrete fences.

Business concept

A huge part of the buildings are built according to template designs, so they look the same. Concrete fences are a way to stand out and give a property its own style and personality. In addition, this is a good alternative to forged gratings: concrete is cheaper and does not require additional painting to prevent plaque and rust.

It is clear that there is a demand for the product and is constantly growing. But the “players” involved in the production of concrete fences can be counted on one hand. More often, fences are made according to an individual sketch as an addition to another product (slabs, blocks, etc.).

Large companies, it is not known why (perhaps they are not attracted to work on small project), almost do not engage in this type of activity. Buyers have to overpay for concrete fences due to the small number of offers.

Upon release large quantity products, at a relatively low price and good quality clients will come to you themselves.

Earnings are based on making custom products or selling standard designs. The clients are home owners with land plots, companies and other persons.

What is required for implementation

First you need to rent or buy equipment:

• vibrating table with 2 electric motors for molding concrete products;
• concrete mixer;
• vibrating sieve to sift components (sand, cement);
• set of forms;
• trays for drying poured products.

Production begins with sifting materials: base for cement and sand. To do this, buy a vibrating sieve in advance - the quantity depends on the expected volume of work. In continuous production, the minimum number of units is 4. For custom work, 2 units are sufficient.

The next stage is mixing concrete. For this purpose, special concrete mixers are purchased. Fortunately, the market offers a huge selection of equipment in different price categories.

Next is the last stage - molding the fence elements and panels. They must be of the highest quality, durable and not deform under light impact. Blind forms are cheaper than openwork ones. Buying the latter is a costly affair, especially when starting production.

Startup instructions

1. Search and rental of territory with a total area of ​​at least 300 square meters. m – for production, minimum size premises - 50 sq. m. The presence of warehouses and procurement areas is also required. All areas except the warehouse must be heated.
2. Personnel selection. At least 4 people will be required, 2 per shift. Productivity – 100-150 sq. m of fences per shift.
3. Purchase of raw materials: cement grade 500-D0, sand, reinforcing wire and various plasticizers for accelerated hardening of concrete. Also, during installation, you can use facade paint to add color.
4. Direct production (streams or to order).
5. Implementation.

Financial calculations

Approximately (in rubles):

• purchase of materials - 1.7 million;
• monthly rent and wages - 40,000 for premises, 600-650,0000 for hired workers;
• equipment – ​​300,000;
• advertising and promotion – from 50,000.

Total – from 2.5 to 3 million.

You will also need to register yourself as an individual entrepreneur and worry about the availability of an auxiliary financial fund, which in the event of force majeure can be spent on paying expenses.

To provide best earnings, you need to establish sales channels for the product, prepare an effective advertising campaign in advance and conclude several contracts, not only with companies, but also with private individuals.

With average production and sales volumes, the payback period for the project is 3 years. Earnings - from 150 to 300 thousand rubles per month.

Risks and disadvantages of business

As with all types of production, especially when it comes to custom work, the risk of making concrete fences is the lack of clients. There is little competition in the market, and such an outcome is unlikely.

Overall, this is a good opportunity to start your own business. You don't have to limit yourself to a single line. Today, other concrete products are also gaining popularity - benches, paving stones, etc. A varied selection of products will ensure a greater influx of customers.

Many people who want to install a concrete decorative fence around their property have the idea of ​​making it themselves. This desire is usually dictated not by cost savings (most often the cost of a finished product and one made independently is not much different), but by the desire to be confident in the quality of the concrete mixture and reinforcement. Use only quality materials and careful attention to the manufacturing process is a guarantee of the durability of the fence. Some go through this labor-intensive process in order to make a unique, unusual product.

What does a concrete decorative fence consist of?

A concrete fence structurally consists of several elements that can be made independently. This:

• slabs for sections,
• pillars,
• finial caps for pillars.

1. Section slabs differ in shape, patterns, texture, and color. Single-sided and double-sided slabs can be produced.
2. The posts can be made solid or stacked, with grooves located opposite each other and at an angle of 90 degrees for corner posts or without grooves at all, as well as with different patterns.
3. Caps can be regular pitched, round, dome-shaped, square, with small architectural forms- with balls, spears, diamonds, etc. on top. In the caps, it is possible to immediately provide a hole at the casting level for the cable outlet for lighting or communications.

A cap with a ball gives the fence a finished look.

Casting molds

To manufacture any elements of a concrete fence, you will need casting molds. A wide variety of forms can be seen on sale. Forms available from

• polyurethane,
• polyurethane with plasticizers,
• silicone,
• fiberglass,
• formoplasty,
• aluminum, etc.

Traditional polyurethane molds durable, easy to use, tear-resistant, elastic. Buying ready-made forms is the best option for those who are satisfied with a standard fence, but who want to independently control the quality of materials for manufacturing and the technological process.

For those who dream of an exclusive fence, there is nothing else to do but make the forms themselves.

How to make a matrix for a mold

To make a mold from polyurethane or silicone, you will need a matrix. The matrix on one side represents the print in a mirror image outside forms. It is inserted into a box made of metal or wood into which the concrete solution will be poured. The sides of the matrix must have a flat, smooth surface.

In order to make a matrix shape, you need to find a product whose shape and relief will be repeated on the surface of the fence: it can be brick, a wide variety of stones, wood, as well as patterns made, for example, from rods or forging. These relief products are laid on the surface of the base and filled with liquid forming material.

The material for making molds must be strong, smooth, wear-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures. Such materials are traditional PVC and modern ABS plastic. PVC molds for a long time were indispensable in this market, but in Lately they began to be crowded out by ABS molds. Their ABC forms are distinguished by durability, rigidity, wear resistance, and maintainability. To date this is the most best option in terms of price/quality ratio in the construction of “Euro fences”.

Texture samples are laid out on a small pedestal, the gaps between them and the surface are carefully sealed silicone sealant so that no bubbles form in future molds. All surfaces must be treated with a separator so that the mold can then be easily removed without damage.

The material for filling the matrix can be one-component or two-component. When preparing a two-component solution, you must strictly follow the instructions, stir the material with a low-speed drill or manually so that no air bubbles get into the material. The lifetime of the fluid material before the start of gelation is 10-15 minutes, during which it is necessary to fill the matrix for the mold.

To obtain a large product, polyurethane is poured onto the matrix carefully from one corner. It is necessary to ensure that the material spreads evenly over the plane. To do this, you can slightly raise the stand from the pouring side, and when the material has spread over the entire surface, level it horizontally again. Open surface filling is most often used for the manufacture of flat products with a small difference in height. This is the simplest type of molding.

There is another method used for small products. The model is rigidly installed in the formwork. Using a soft brush, the mixture is applied to the model to draw the relief and “force” the air. The mass is poured in such a way that the thickness of the future form is 10 mm. After hardening, the form should rest for two days so that its edges do not collapse. Polyurethane has memory and remembers its shape in the first 48 hours. If during this period the form is bent, then it will remain that way.

Ready-made “stone” form.

The main advantages of open pouring:

• simplicity,
• ability to see air inclusions.

There is another method of filling - closed. To work with this method, a casing is poured, which ensures the production of a thin, uniform shape. This method is more labor-intensive, but its use produces higher quality, thinner forms that can be removed by rolling.

Pallet production

In the manufacture of pallets for large products load-bearing elements the frame is carefully adjusted to the shape and carefully secured to the pallet, eliminating the appearance of gaps. When making permanent pallets with corrugated or irregular shape you will need rigid side-fitting bottom support, which can be done using polyurethane foam. Such forms have precise, high-quality surfaces. The products will have a clean surface like marble or granite. And if you add coloring pigments to concrete during production, you can achieve a visual imitation of natural materials.