Technology for creating a mini bath for a summer residence. Turkish steam rooms for home

A mini bathhouse for a dacha is simply necessary, because imagine how great a miniature bathhouse will look in a dacha, when the plots are often small, this building will come in handy. All year round You can enjoy the steaming procedure, improve your health and take a steam bath with a bath broom; if there is a pond or river nearby, then contrasting water procedures will also benefit your health. This mini bathhouse is very compact inside and at the same time quite spacious for its size. Now all that remains is to decide how the mini bathhouse in the country will be placed, and how to build it on your site.

Mini baths for a summer residence

Everyone chooses the size of a mini bath at their dacha to their own taste, but first you need to find out the main features of the design of a mini bath. And there is nothing complicated here, the frame is welded from a twenty-fifth corner. Transitions: half-walls, wall-roof, fastening with corners, welding the shelves to each other, so for the door to the steam room and front door we fix it the same way. For an improved design of a mini bathhouse in the country, the roof is often made at an angle, divided into two parts. The dressing room has a difference of 10 centimeters, the second part is the bathhouse itself, located at 90 degrees to the first with a slope of 20 centimeters from the highest point of the dressing room. Additionally, we strengthen the floor with one corner in the middle, along the steam room, and for structural strength we strengthen another corner on top across the steam room. For greater rigidity, we install another corner between the dressing room and the steam room. We can drill holes for screws as many times as we think is necessary, the main thing is that the block holds.

Next, we cut a 50mm timber from dry larch of a size suitable for the corners of a mini bath, and screw them on. We nail one-inch dry boards to the bars, lay them on the floor of the mini bath, don’t forget about the hole for the stove, the roof and the walls inside. To ensure good insulation of the mini bath, we glue tiles to the walls. Outside the mini baths in the country, we place the boards parallel to the ground, start sheathing them from the bottom up, so the boards slightly overlap each other, and then paint them with varnish. The next stage is installing the stove and pipes in the mini sauna. We place the stove on a couple of bricks, place it two centimeters from the wall, this is necessary to insulate the wall so that it does not burn. We will make a hole in the roof larger than the diameter of the pipe, since it will be necessary to lay insulation. All that remains is to install the doors and cover the roof with any material that suits your taste.

Mini sauna at the dacha is perfect place to spend time with your family and friends, you can buy a ready-made mini sauna for your dacha, but this will take more money, but at the same time it will not spend your free time for the construction of a mini bathhouse in the country. If you have time and construction brings you pleasure, then it is better to make a mini bathhouse in the country with your own hands. This will give you the opportunity to personally choose materials and simply put your soul into the mini sauna.

Currently, saunas and bathhouses are built not only in country houses both in dachas and in apartments. Specifications saunas allow you to build it in any room. Arranging a mini-sauna in an apartment is, of course, a complex issue, but it can be solved. The most important thing is to comply with everything important nuances and, of course, safety rules, especially fire safety.

Types of saunas

There are two types of home mini-saunas:

• Finnish sauna cabin - a completely ready-made design, but quite expensive and not suitable for small apartments , because you will have to try to place it correctly in the room.
• A thorough mini-sauna - built with your own hands. This option allows you to place the sauna indoors according to your wishes and gives room for creativity.

So, how to make a bathhouse in an apartment?

Location and size

The first step is to calculate the parameters and draw up a project for the future mini-bath. The size of the mini-sauna should be chosen based on the number of visitors. For an adult the most optimal size 0.7x2 m. You can build a mini-bath with your own hands in the pantry, in the bathroom and even on the balcony - if infrared heaters are installed.

But still, the most suitable place for a sauna would be the bathroom, since all the necessary communications are already installed there. There is water (cold, hot), sewerage, ventilation, in general, there is everything that is necessary for bath procedures. Plus, building a sauna in the bathroom does not require remodeling the apartment, so there is no need for coordination with the REU.

When developing a project for a future mini-bath, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• Thermal insulation.
• Sauna heating device.
• Ventilation system.

Sauna heating devices

You need to start with heat generators for the Finnish bathhouse, which are electric heaters. The most advantageous position is for the owner who has an electric stove (5 kW), with the same power as electric sauna stoves. In this case, to connect, it will be enough to run an extension cord into the kitchen and plug it into an outlet.

Important: Do not use the stove while the heater is running. The extension cord should be connected on days when the sauna is in use; the rest of the time it should be removed.

In order to connect the heater, you do not need to install a special socket in the bathroom or run a cable along the floor. It is better to purchase a special tray, which is sold at an electrical goods store. The cable located in the booth must be protected with a thermostatic hose. Electricity consumption will be almost the same as that of a conventional washing machine. A thermally insulating stand is required under the stove. The heater must not be placed next to the bathtub or at the same level as it.

Important: cannot be used heating installations, which are made by yourself, especially those with open spirals.

In those houses with gas stoves, it will be more difficult. You will need to run a special cable from the meter to power the heater. One more excellent option There will be an infrared sauna. In this case, the heaters produce heat rays specifically at the person, but do not heat the air. They must be installed as described in the instructions.

Materials for thermal insulation. In a home mini-sauna you need good thermal insulation ceiling and walls, because the heater power there is small. This will allow you to maintain desired temperature with minimal energy consumption.

Important: when choosing insulation, it is advisable to abandon polystyrene foam and its modifications, because when heated, this material can melt and begin to emit harmful smoke.

An excellent material for insulation would be mineral wool insulation. This material is in no way inferior to foam plastic and is not affected by temperature. The insulation should be placed between the cladding slats. If the insulation comes into contact with the brick, then for vapor barrier you need to use plastic film. If panels that have thermal insulation are used as cladding, then the walls do not need to be insulated. The shields are made of natural cork, which is soldered with its own resin. It has good water resistance and is environmentally friendly. This material should be mounted to a timber frame.

Ventilation system

The next feature of creating a mini-bath with your own hands is the installation of ventilation. In a home bath, the air humidity is low, but if there is no good ventilation, moisture will immediately penetrate into the apartment. Therefore, it is important to provide a system for quickly removing excess moisture. The issue of ventilation must be taken seriously. The ventilation ducts in the house must be in perfect order.

Installation and its features

To fasten the bars, you need to use plastic dowels, because the wooden plugs will quickly become loose due to the constant temperature difference. In order to avoid problems when attaching the ceiling, the supporting beam should be installed vertically, and the cladding boards horizontally. In this case, the frame of the mini-bath will be quite rigid and will hold the ceiling well. If you install the boards with an overlap, then moisture will not be able to penetrate behind the cladding.

Important: it is imperative to install a vapor barrier between the thermal insulation and the cladding. This can be done using aluminum foil.

To prevent the wood from getting wet due to condensation, you need to leave a gap of approximately 4 mm between the sheathing and the foil.

Important: the heads of the nails must be recessed into the wood, because they can cause burns to the body.

Doors

The design of the door can be very diverse. It all depends on imagination and budget. The door can be a hinged door, a compartment door, or a Velcro-type device. The most important thing is to the entrance to the sauna was sealed and there was good thermal insulation. For a mini-bath that has a stove you need wooden door, which will be insulated inside with foil. To close tightly, you need to make three-step edges of the jamb. But in infrared sauna should be installed glass door, for which a heat-resistant silicone seal should be used.

Floor arrangement

A plank floor for a sauna is not a very good option. If you really want a floor made of wood, then you should never varnish it. The best option would be a heated tiled floor., which must be laid out in advance, before the construction of wooden structures. The tile must meet the requirements fire safety.

Equipment

The internal equipment of the bath includes a headrest, a bed, a footrest, and a back support. All these parts must be wooden and preferably made of wood with low thermal conductivity, for example, pine, aspen or spruce. Control panels, supports, shelves and footrests can be purchased at specialty stores.

Important: all switches must be outside only. All lamps must be placed under heat-resistant and moisture-resistant glass, which can be purchased at any store.

Requirements for a mini-sauna in an apartment with your own hands:

• A Finnish sauna must have a fire safety certificate.
• The apartment itself must be equipped with a fire safety system.
• There should be a fire extinguishing system in the form of water sprayers along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse.

The Russian bathhouse is an integral part of national traditions, as well as a place where one can improve one’s health and gain a boost of vigor and strength. Many owners of country plots dream of having a bathhouse on their territory, but give up their dream because... believe that buying or building it will cost a considerable amount and will also take too much large plot yard But it turns out that it is possible to build an inexpensive compact bathhouse, the so-called mini version, with your own hands.

A mini bathhouse is a small structure compared to a full-fledged bathhouse, somewhat inferior in capabilities, but quite acceptable for home use by one or two people.

Foam plastic is an inexpensive and high-quality solution for thermal insulation. Today, many underestimate its properties, but a layer of this material, having a thickness of 12 cm, performs its function with the same success as mineral wool, laid out in an eighteen-centimeter layer or wood, 45 cm thick.

The range of temperatures with which foam plastic copes well ranges from -100 to +80 degrees, despite the fact that such a temperature does not allow even lightly touching the surface.

Let's consider the option of building a mini bathhouse for a summer residence using the example of a structure that is 3 meters long, 2.5 meters wide, and 2.1 meters high. It will consist of two rooms of equal size - a dressing room and a steam room.

Materials needed to build a homemade mini sauna

Before building a mini sauna, you should prepare all the necessary materials:

• beams with a section of 10x10 cm, 3 m in length - 25 pcs.;
• edged boards 2 cm thick - 1.5 cubic meters;
• edged floor boards 4 cm thick - 0.3 cubic meters;
• construction foam 10 cm thick - 33 square meters;
• beams for rafters 10x5 cm, 2 m long - 8 pcs.;
• 2 cylinders of polyurethane foam;

• cement for the foundation - 4 bags of 50 kg;
• roofing material, such as slate or roofing felt, or tiles - 15 square meters;
• lining - 0.37 cubic meters;
• aluminum foil for vapor barrier - 20 square meters;
• siding – 23 square meters;
• bricks for the stove – 250 pcs. or heating element;
• door that will close the oven - 1 pc.;
• two tanks, the dimensions of which are 37x32x12 cm.

Self-construction of a mini bath

The process of erecting a bath structure consists of the following stages:

• on garden territory choose a place for your future bathhouse. It should be located as far as possible from residential buildings;
• draw up a mini bath project. It should include detailed diagram, printed on paper, all frame parts with dimensions;

• take a piece of string and use it to mark the perimeter of the future foundation and drive small stakes into its corners. In our case, the perimeter will be 3x2.5 meters;
• then mark the place that the stove foundation will occupy, for us it is 75x60 cm;
• In the four corners marked with stakes, dig holes about one and a half meters deep. Their diameter will depend on the width of your shovel;
• in the same way, dig recesses for the foundation for the furnace, their depth should be the same;
• in four dug holes, install formwork under the foundation, measuring 30x30 cm. It should rise 20-25 cm above the surface;
• pour concrete into the formwork of both foundations;
• after two weeks, remove the formwork and fill the resulting voids with soil. The foundation should be covered with roofing felt, this is necessary for waterproofing;
• Next, assemble the frame mini bath, guided by the previously drawn up project: nail the rafters, then the boards, lay the roofing material;
• Next, install the window and door;

• frame with inside cover with board;
• laying down flooring, do not forget to leave a hole for the stove;
• cut out pieces from foam plastic required size and cover all surfaces of the walls and ceiling with them. Fill the resulting void between the joints with polyurethane foam;
• cover the outside of the building with boards;
• Cover the walls and ceiling of the steam room with a vapor barrier, in our case it is foil;
• after this, cover the walls and ceilings of both rooms with clapboard;
• This is followed by laying the stove or installing a heating element. If you are doing masonry, then follow the diagram:

• at the last stage, cover the entire surface of the structure from the outside with siding.

Arrangement of communications

If your country house does not have running water, then the flow of water into homemade sauna made by gravity. To do this, you should stock up on hoses, mixers and two 50-liter tanks.

The “hot” and “cold” tanks are located with a difference of half a meter in height, the “hot” one is higher, the “cold” one is lower. The hose is connected to both tanks: one end to the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the other end to the top of the “hot” tank.

Different temperatures in both tanks will allow the water to circulate through the pipeline on its own. In order to supply water to the shower from one tank to another, a separate pipe equipped with a tap is pulled.

To arrange the water drainage, you need to dig a drain hole and purchase drainage pipes. If they are installed at an angle, the sewage water will run into the hole.

The drainage system is arranged as follows:

• Not far from the bathhouse building, dig a hole the size of square meter. It is necessary to find out in advance the distance to which the soil freezes in your area. If it is 60 cm and above, then the hole needs to be dug to a depth of about 1.5 meters;
• fill this hole with either small pieces of bricks, or crushed stone, or expanded clay. The level of the selected material should be approximately 50 cm higher than the distance over which the ground freezes;
• Cover the remaining distance to the top with earth and compact it thoroughly.

All work must be carried out in strict compliance with technological standards, otherwise the drainage system will freeze and water will accumulate in the pipeline and in the underground. It will be impossible to use the bathhouse, and the floors will begin to rot.

If the soil does not absorb water very well, then you should not dig a hole for sewerage. It is better to arrange a direct flow so that the water flows out through the pipeline. To do this, you need a pit, the manufacture of which can be made from any materials, the main condition is complete tightness, otherwise all the odors characteristic of sewage drains will poison your stay in the bathhouse. Water from the pit will flow down the slope. A drain with a pit is usually equipped with a water seal:

• Having retreated 90-120 mm from the bottom, insert a pipe to drain the water. Install the plate on its three sides without attaching it;
• the plate should not reach the bottom by 50-60 mm. Due to this, a water seal appears that does not let odors into the bathhouse.

When arranging communications, do not forget about this important point like ventilation. The riser is made of metal pipe, with a diameter of 100 mm. A cap or deflector is placed on top of it.

Most often, dense materials are used for these purposes. polyethylene pipes, PVC is not suitable in this case. To the sewer system from such pipes it is possible to connect not only a steam room and a washing room, but also a toilet, if provided for by the project.

There are two types of flooring in the bathhouse:

• leaky;
• leak-proof.

In the first option, the boards are laid, leaving gaps of half a centimeter, and not attached too tightly, they should lie freely. This installation option allows them to dry if necessary. Also, the boards of leaking floors are located at an angle. This allows the water to drain into the pan underneath and from there into the pit.

Baths sewer systems there are three types:

• gravity;
• non-pressure;
• connected to the sewer.

All these systems can be installed without the help of specialists. For this, thin-walled plastic and shaped pipes, 5-10 cm thick, are used. They are connected to each other with seals, which, in order to ensure complete tightness of the connections, must have high quality. The drainage system must be designed in such a way that it has a minimum of branches. sewer pipe are taken out of the building to the outside, into a discharge pipe located in the ground, at a greater distance from the surface than the freezing depth of the soil.

Heating a mini bath

Water can be heated in two ways:

• using a mini sauna oven , installed in the steam room;
• through a heating element purchased in a store.

If you decide to install a stove, you will need to purchase a U-shaped pipe and, going around the base of the chimney, place it in the hottest place of the stove. In this case, the end of the pipe from which water is supplied must be located on the body, and the outlet end must be located 50 mm above it.

More simple solution is a heating element. It is installed under the tank containing cold water, and are connected to the system using stainless steel hoses and pipes.

Arrangement of ventilation and light in the mini bath

Mini baths, photos of which are presented on the page, can have different sizes and appearance. Often, to ensure good ventilation in them, you do not have to spend money on various devices. You just need to cut out a small window in the door and screw a door or shutter to it.

To illuminate the mini bath room, halogen lamps should be installed. You just need to purchase those that have a heat-resistant case. By connecting the lighting system to a small transformer, you can reduce the voltage to 12V.

The dimensions of the mini bath, as well as the number of rooms in it, may vary depending on your requirements, preferences and the size of the area that you can allocate for construction.

City residents, with a busy pace of life and an eternal lack of time, simply have no time to go to a sauna or bathhouse. But if you have a sauna at home, you can always find time to use it. Why do apartments have saunas and not baths? It’s much easier to make a sauna: you don’t need to think about draining water, which spills out a considerable amount during bath procedures, and about steam, which is more than enough in a Russian bath. In addition, sauna connoisseurs say that achieving real light steam, which has beneficial influence on the body, it is possible only with the help. In apartments, any heating devices on wood and solid fuels are prohibited: the risk of fire is too great. Therefore, if you want to steam in your apartment, build a mini-sauna.

Sauna for an apartment: types

You can install a ready-made sauna in your apartment or make one yourself. Ready-made options today there are many. Different sizes, power and location options, different heating devices (based on heating elements or infrared emitters). There are saunas for apartments with a built-in shower cabin, and there are shower cabins with built-in electric heaters or IR emitters. There are really a lot of options, but high-quality saunas for an apartment cost a lot. Even very solid. And you can’t adjust them to the available space: either the dimensions fit or they don’t. Even if the area allows, according to the law, saunas no larger than 2x2 meters can be installed in apartments. So it turns out that with all the many options, the choice turns out to be not so great: either the size doesn’t fit, then you don’t like the equipment or design, or the price turns out to be prohibitive. All these problems are absent when you independently build a sauna in an apartment. But this also has its drawbacks: you will need to work hard. But the design, the stove, and the sizes are up to your taste and choice.

Ready-made saunas have one undeniable advantage - you can install a ready-made sauna in an apartment in a few hours.

There are several compact, portable sauna options for apartments:

Regardless of whether you will use a ready-made sauna in an apartment or make it yourself, in the room in which it will be located, it is necessary to carry out heat and vapor barrier work, as well as take care of high-quality ventilation(except sauna barrels and portable options). Although there is not as much steam in the sauna as in a Russian bath, it is still enough for condensation to settle on the windows and walls. To effectively remove it, a set of measures is required to quickly remove excess moisture from the apartment.

If there is not enough space for a sauna, for example only one meter per meter, then you need to opt for an infrared sauna.

How to build a sauna in an apartment: preparatory work

The most important thing is to decide on the place where the sauna will be located in the apartment. The choice is actually not that wide - it could be a kitchen or a bathroom. In some options, you can install a sauna in place of the pantry, in the hallway or on the balcony. If you decide to make a sauna in the bathroom, no problems are foreseen, since approval in this case is not necessary and almost all communications are connected.

To set up a sauna in any other place, you will need to remodel the apartment, supply/discharge water, electricity, and organize a ventilation system. To install a sauna in an apartment, you will need approval from the following organizations:

• Fire Service;
• Sanitary and Epidemiological Service;
• Architectural supervision service (during redevelopment);
• Housing inspection.

All this is a serious investment of time and nerves, and sometimes money, but the pleasure is worth it. When choosing a location for installing a sauna in an apartment, remember that it should not be adjacent to external walls (due to the large temperature difference outer wall will get wet and bloom), at least one wall must be load-bearing.

After determining the location of the sauna, you need to solve the problem with electricity. No complications will arise in houses where there are electric stoves: apartment electrical wiring in them is designed for 5-6 kW. The power of an electric furnace for a mini-sauna is rarely more than 3-4 kW. So - no problem, but it’s not advisable to use the stove with the electric heater on.

In houses with gas stoves there are two options. First: take a low-power sauna stove. The maximum load in such houses is 3-4 kW, taking into account the fact that at least a refrigerator, TV and some other electrical appliances are included, the power of the stove should not exceed 2 kW. But with such power the sauna will gain required temperature no earlier than two hours later. You can speed up the process by carefully performing it. In this case, the estimated readiness time is reduced by three times! A small sauna of 2-3 cubic meters will heat up faster: at this power it will heat up within an hour.

In the second option, you will have to create a separate entrance to supply electricity to the heater or infrared emitter. Wires are used large section– 4-8mm and a special circuit breaker, which turns off the power at the slightest failure or problem. If you are not strong in electrical engineering, you will need, at a minimum, the advice of a specialist who understands connecting electrical equipment in conditions of high humidity.

Anyway everything electrical sockets and the switches should be located in the sauna cabin, and next to it.

The next step in building a sauna in an apartment will be installing a ventilation system. Most apartments have such a system, but you will need to check its functionality and, if necessary, clean it ventilation ducts. In the sauna cabin itself, for effective ventilation, there must be two ventilation holes. Fans can be built into them (must withstand temperatures up to 130 o C) for forced ventilation or close these holes with wooden flaps. In the simplest version, the dampers consist of two disks made of wood, in which sectors of approximately 90 degrees are cut out. The disks are movably fixed in the center, turning one relative to the other closes/opens the ventilation gap.

Next: decide on the size of the sauna, draw a plan indicating the exact dimensions, think about where and how the stove will be installed, where the electrical wiring will go, where the lamps will be, and the ventilation duct. Please note that regardless of location, the sauna cabin must have own ceiling. Up to the ceiling of the apartment minimum distance– 5-10 cm. Draw on the plan at what height and what size the shelves will be and where they will be located. To install the shelf at the required height, provide a cross beam - the shelves will be attached to it, think over a system to support it. In general, it is advisable to make five transverse straps: one at the bottom, one at the top (the ceiling of the cabin), another one at the level of the future shelf (this beam should be wider), and two more between them. This design will ensure sufficient rigidity and reliability of the cabin.

Also decide what size door you need, and what type it will be - wooden with a glass insert (glass is required according to safety regulations) or. After a detailed plan with all the details has been drawn up, you can begin installing the sauna in the apartment with your own hands.

How to make a sauna in an apartment: stages of construction

Before installation begins, you will need to treat all the walls of the room in which the sauna will be installed with antifungal impregnations (we have already written). When choosing disinfectants pay attention to their area of ​​application: they must be suitable for baths and saunas. All wood that will be used must also pass similar treatment, but the compositions here are usually different, although they should also be suitable for rooms with elevated temperature conditions.

At the next stage, you need to build a wooden frame that corresponds to the dimensions of the selected room or part of it allocated for the sauna (its dimensions are indicated in your plan).

Do not forget that the ceiling of a sauna cannot be the ceiling of an apartment, because top harness The cabin is located at least 10-20 cm below the ceiling. In this gap, ventilation ducts from the cabin will be located; in some cases, power supply wires may be laid in a special corrugated heat-resistant sleeve. For better thermal insulation It is advisable to cover the ceiling of the apartment above the sauna with thermal insulation mats and cover them on the side of the room with foil material.

The distance between the frame guides is usually 50-60 cm. You can determine exactly after purchase heat-insulating material: Thermal insulation mats should be 2 cm wider than the distance between the guides. In this case, the thermal insulation becomes dense and does not require special effort on consolidation. At this stage, they also lay wiring in a heat-resistant corrugated hose to the places where the stove and fans are supposed to be installed. The wire must also be in a heat-resistant sheath. If necessary, ventilation ducts are removed at the same time.

After completion of construction wooden frame, in order to maintain the temperature in the sauna as long as possible, we insulate the walls and ceiling of the cabin thermal insulation materials. Most often used basalt wool, but in connection with recent research in saunas and baths, it is better to use quilted mats, in the production of which synthetic binders are either not used at all, or their quantity is minimal. The thickness of the insulation depends on the characteristics of the chosen material, but in apartment conditions a layer of 10 centimeters is usually sufficient. Such mats are installed between the frame beams with little effort (they should be slightly wider than the distance between the frame beams) and hold tightly, but for additional reliable fixation they can be secured with special nails (sold in the same stores where thermal insulation is sold). When attaching thermal insulation, avoid the slightest gaps and cracks - heat will escape through them. And although this is not as important for saunas in apartments as, say, for detached buildings, it is still necessary to heat the air in the cabin, and not in the apartment. So be careful about thermal insulation.

The next step in building a home sauna in an apartment is vapor barrier (what is it for?). In this case, it is advisable to use one of the foil materials - it will simultaneously solve the problem of vapor barrier and also increase the degree of thermal insulation. The foil material is attached from bottom to top (shiny side into the room), the panels are applied with an overlap of 10-15 cm, the joints are carefully taped with foil tape. The panels themselves are attached to the frame using thin wooden planks, which are nailed either with thin nails or staples from a construction stapler. A counter lathing is made on top of the foil (minimum 2 cm), which gives the gap necessary to thermal energy reflected from the foil, and the clapboard is already attached to this sheathing.

It is better to use deciduous trees for lining the sauna cabin - they do not emit resins, which in conditions high temperatures in the sauna can cause burns. Usually it is alder or linden. You can also use coniferous lining, but it must be deresined, and there is almost no such material on sale. If deresined material can be found, it is expensive. You can remove the resin yourself, but the process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. So hardwood is the best option.

When securing the lining, try to ensure that the metal parts are recessed or closed (heads of nails or other fasteners), otherwise they will cause burns.

Since a sauna in an apartment usually has small sizes, the lining is stuffed horizontally - this makes the room optically larger, but this is not important. At the same stage, fans or ventilation dampers are installed and the door is hung. To ensure air flow, the door to the sauna should not reach the threshold or floor by 2-3 cm. This gap must be left, otherwise, due to the lack of sufficient oxygen in the steam room, after the procedures you will experience lethargy or even headache(in the worst case scenario, loss of consciousness).

Floor for apartment sauna usually made of tiles, so if the bathroom is chosen as the installation location, there is usually no need to change anything. In other options, you can make the floor wooden from boards hardwood, or on the subfloor.

The very last stage of building a sauna in an apartment is installing a stove and installing lamps. Electric heaters are simply placed in the chosen location. The only thing that is recommended is to make a protective wooden one at a distance of 5-10 centimeters around it, which will protect against accidental burns in confined spaces. It is also advisable to cover the wall behind the stove and/or in the immediate vicinity of it with heat-resistant material - tiles, bricks or asbestos sheets (not the most the best option from a health safety point of view).

These are all the main stages of building a sauna in an apartment. But before starting operation, the entire structure must be dried: on the first day, turn on the heater for an hour with open door, on the second day - for two hours, then for several more hours. And the final test will be to bring the temperature in the home mini-sauna to 85-90 o C. Only the next day can you steam “for real.”