Japanese vine vines. Japanese grape varieties: the latest and most promising hybrids. What kind of grapes are they from Japan?

Many summer residents grow grapes on their plots, and their best reward is good harvest. And every summer resident should know how to prepare grapes for winter, so that next year also rejoice in ripe grapes. You should definitely find time to take all the steps to prevent frost from harming the grapes. High yields can be obtained if you follow all the requirements and carefully care for the grapes. It is unacceptable to leave the plant for the entire season without nutrients, shelter and certain pruning.

Damage from frost

Before you properly prepare grapes for winter, you need to understand how frost can harm you. Severe cold causes various damage to vineyards and most often these are the following damages:

If you do not prepare the grapes for wintering, the young grapevine, branches, and roots will be damaged. Negative consequences It won’t happen if you get a frost-resistant variety. But it also makes sense to fight for those plants that are not adapted to cold weather.

Preparing for cold weather

Preparing your grapevine for winter can seem daunting. After all, simply covering a bush for the winter is not enough. It will be especially difficult for beginning gardeners.

How to make a bird feeder with your own hands

Of course, the strongest plant is resistant to frost, for this reason it is necessary to prepare the vine. To maintain its life processes, the plant consumes most of the nutrients that have accumulated for a long time. During winter, when the grapes are covered, most of the nutrients are lost. But the beneficial substances should also remain for the spring, because without them the shoots will not be able to develop.

Thus, for a vineyard to grow properly, it must be strong, which can be achieved if you constantly feed it useful fertilizers. It is necessary to feed the grapes throughout the season so that they gain enough valuable substances.

Ripened vine

Those gardeners who are preparing young grapes for winter rightly believe that there should be a mature vine on the bush. It is usually brown in color, denser and covered with bark. It feels warmer to the touch even during the first frosts.

If young wood is found on the bush, it must be removed from the plant. If you do not remove it, then during cold weather it will die in any case, and will also leave the bush without a certain share of useful substances. This means that the plant will not develop in the spring. And also a weak vine poses a risk of various diseases that quickly spread throughout the bush under the cover.

Thus, before the cold weather, only ripened grape vines should be left. How much wood matures will depend on the following factors:

In order for the wood to mature properly, it is recommended to use potassium. Wherein experienced gardeners choose wood ash and potassium that does not contain chlorine. Fertilizing is required, both conventional and foliar.

To feed the plant, it needs about forty grams of potassium. It must be added to water or wood ash. To obtain correct solution, you need to infuse a liter of ash in a bucket of water. It is necessary to insist for three days, after which fertilizing is done.

It is necessary to remember that nitrogen fertilizers are not needed for grapes from July. After all, because of nitrogen fertilizers Rapid growth of shoots will begin, but the ripening of the grapes will remain at the same level.

How to make a trellis for grapes with your own hands

In order for the grapes to ripen better, it is recommended to use garden embossing, which is preferred by many gardeners. This is a cut above the middle part, around the sixteenth leaf. In this case, the plant no longer grows, and the clusters are filled with valuable substances.

It is necessary to carry out minting at a time when plant growth begins to decline. If you trim the plant before this time, you can achieve the opposite effect, in which a large number of stepsons. Understand when it is right time, quite simply - only curved shoots can grow. If the plant has acquired partially straight and partially curved shoots, then the chasing will be on time.

If the plant ripens using other methods, then you can do without minting. And also, in central Russia, it is not always noticeable when grapes stop growing, so you can make mistakes.

Preparing the vineyard for winter in the middle zone and to the north includes techniques for vine ripening, fertilizing, winter watering, autumn pruning and shelter for the winter.

Conditions for ripening grapevines

Signs of a ripened grape vine are straw-beige color, hardness, characteristic crackling, but not breaking when slightly bent. Even during frosts, a ripened vine is warm to the touch, unlike an unripe one.

For the vine to ripen, you need:

How to help grapes in autumn

Provide good lighting bushes and timely harvesting. Phosphorus-potassium foliar feeding is useful, for example weekly with potassium monophosphate (30 g per 10 liters of water). Even if autumn is not rainy, still do not water the plants. Grapes will need moisture-recharging irrigation only at the very end of autumn before covering, and now simulating drought (especially on sandy soils) leads to an increase in the phytohormone inhibitor (abscisic acid - ABA) in the root zone. It inhibits the growth of the plant and causes it to go into a dormant state. Lignification of plant shoots is also associated with it. You can accelerate lignification not only by stopping watering, but also by spraying ABA on the leaves at a dosage of 500 mg per 1 liter.

Special techniques for preparing grapes for winter

Ripening is facilitated by curling the shoots into a ring, reflective screens, and temporary autumn shelter for horizontally laid and not yet pruned vines. Take your time with pruning and covering. For a good wintering, the shoots must undergo hardening. The first frosts will damage the green leaves and shoots, but will only harden the vine. There is also an old trick for “explaining” to grapes that winter is coming. With a sharp blow of a metal scrap, break the integrity of the soil coma and surface roots 15–20 cm from the head of the bush.

Fertilizing and winter watering

Before sheltering, the grapes need abundant watering before winter. This is important, especially on light soil. In winter, water in the form of steam rises through the soil pores, and its heat warms the roots. Before watering, sprinkle ash - 0.5 liters per bush. At least once every two years in the fall, fertilize the soil with superphosphate (25 g) and potassium salt (25 g) per 10 liters of water. Even good soil gradually becomes poorer and can no longer provide the plant with the substances necessary for fruiting. Root feeding is carried out in October through holes 20 cm deep. Foliar feeding carry out until the leaves fall - with superphosphate, ash, potassium salt, boric acid, manganese, iron (preferably in chelate form).

Pruning grapes is the most creative work

For a winegrower, pruning is both a lot of work and a great pleasure from intense mental work. The main goal is to control the balance of the grape bush as a whole and give it an optimal shape for shelter. Pruning limits the polarity of the vine, regulates the growth of shoots, fruiting and the relationship of parts of the bush. Pruning of grape bushes older than 3 years is carried out annually.

Opening hours are towards the end of autumn, around the end of October - beginning of November, depending on the varietal characteristics and weather. Wait two to three weeks after the first frost, this is when the grapevine ripens more actively. If you have not removed the vines from the trellis in advance, do so on a calm, clear day. If natural leaf fall has not yet passed, you need to remove the leaves by carefully moving your hand from top to bottom, without touching the buds. The shape of the bushes, depending on the type of formation, is maintained by removing from 60 to 90% of the growth - fruit-bearing shoots, weak and thin vines, and, if necessary, part of a perennial vine.

For correct pruning a beginner needs to know the structure of the bush. Mistakes in the process of pruning grapes are dangerous, as they will not only reduce the yield, but can also lead to the death of the bush. To prevent this from happening, it is important to follow a few simple rules:

• The tool must be clean and sharp, and the cutting surface must be smooth and small.
• Place the cuts on one side of the shoot or sleeve, and if on the side of the shoots, then it is better on the side facing the head of the bush (the so-called “back”) - this way they will heal easier.
• Direct the pruner with a narrow blade towards the vine to be removed, and with the cutting blade towards the part to be left.
• On shoots with long internodes, cut the vine 4–5 cm above the upper eye. On shoots with short internodes, cut above the upper eye through the diaphragm of the next node, and remove the eye on it. This technique will protect the core of the shoot from excess moisture.
• Always leave the optimal minimum of perennial wood, in the north this is sometimes a low trunk, and usually the base of branches.
• When replacing old sleeves or removing other perennial parts of a grape bush, be sure to leave 1–2 cm of stumps. And vice versa, when removing annual shoots, do not leave stumps on them.
• Make the cut on an annual shoot obliquely with a slope on the opposite side from the eye, then during the spring crying the sap will not flow into the eye.

Depending on the length of the vines, pruning is divided into short(2–4 eyes – Solaris Agat Donskoy, Crystal), medium (6–8 eyes – most varieties), long(10–14 – Kesha-1, Rizamat, Yadviga). Sometimes used combined pruning – medium or long for fruiting vines, short for replacement knots. In northern conditions, when pruning, take into account the possibility of some of the eyes freezing in winter. Sometimes pruning grapes with a reserve of eyes will preserve the harvest.

After trimming the grapes, be sure to burn all leaves and shoots that are not needed for cuttings; they are not suitable for compost. Before sheltering, eradicating treatment of the vine with a 3–5% solution is useful. iron sulfate.

Pruning young grapes

In the first year after planting, pruning is not carried out. In the fall, the unripe part of the shoots is removed before sheltering. From the second year of growing season, continue to form the bush according to the chosen formation, taking into account biological features varieties in your region, and after fruiting begins, maintain the optimal shape of the bush by pruning. Simplest form– standard-free shaping according to the Guyot system.

Shelter of grapes

In the south, grapes are most often covered with soil. In Siberia - with shields in special boxes. In areas with abundant snow cover, it is possible to cover the grapes with snow. Every centimeter of snow cover gives the grapes a degree of heat. In the middle zone and to the north, a standard air-dry shelter is usually used. Its goal is to prevent the roots and vines with fruit buds from freezing, as well as the vine dampening off, i.e. the vine should be dry and moderately warm. Loosely tie the cut vines into bunches and bend them carefully about 10–20 cm above the ground, connecting the bushes in pairs towards each other. Boards or, better yet, dry spruce branches are placed under the vine; the grapevine should also be dry. It is advisable to carry out these operations at a positive temperature so that fragile shoots do not break.

My husband and I’s shelter algorithm includes three elements:

• Durable welded mesh 1.5 m wide. We cut the mesh into easy-to-use one and a half meter fragments and bend it into a “P” shape with a crossbar along the width of the trench and “legs” of 30–40 cm, so that the tunnel almost does not rise above the trench and does not fly off it in winter snow.
• Spunbond (or other non-woven covering material) 60 thick, which can be folded in half to ensure dry air in the shelter.
• Durable plastic film, which we cover the grapes with breaths every 2–3 m.

A shelter made from these three components can be assembled quickly and without fuss. I recommend buying everything in rolls for many years of use. Instead of non-woven covering material, you can use straw or reed mats, instead of film - slate, roofing felt, roofing felt, for greenhouses - dornite.

After covering, leave the ends of the tunnels open; they are closed with the spunbond bent inward after a constant subzero temperature has been established. To protect against rodents, be sure to place pieces of burnt felt or rags soaked in used machine oil in each shelter.

Here it is autumn. All the strength of the vine is devoted to the enviable harvest. Heavy bunches are collected and stored, and the bushes need to be prepared for a long period of storage. winter holidays. It is necessary that the grapes not only survive the cold season, but also preserve flower buds for next year's harvest.

It often happens that one winegrower’s plantings survive the winter without losses, but on the neighboring plot the grapes freeze or rot? This largely depends on the preparation of the vineyard for the cold.

Where to start?

Preparing grape bushes for winter begins in early autumn. Help the grapes survive cold period Timely watering, fertilizing, pruning, treatment against pests and diseases, and reliable shelter will help.

Watering

During the growth of greenery and the filling of berries, the grape bush needs moisture. But even at this time, excess moisture is harmful. Excess moisture worsens the taste of berries and provokes an outbreak of diseases. And after harvesting, watering should be carried out in moderate amounts - the soil should be saturated with moisture without waterlogging.

It is important to remember that sandy soils are watered more often, but with less water, while clay soils are watered less frequently and more abundantly, taking into account air temperature, humidity, wind speed, and depth. groundwater and timing of the onset of sub-zero temperatures. Timely watering will fill the vineyard with moisture and increase its frost resistance.

Fertilizers

By the time of harvest, the grapevine loses almost all of its internal reserves. Timely application of nutrients will help restore its strength, preserve the flower buds formed on it and turn green in the spring.

The soil can be shed with a solution of 20 g of aqueous extract of phosphorus and 10 g of potassium fertilizers dissolved in 10 liters of water. When watering, the soil is soaked to a depth of 25 cm.

It is useful to add microelements to the irrigation mixture and aqueous solution: boric acid, potassium permanganate, iodine, zinc sulfate and ammonium molybdate.

As long as the vineyard has leaves, it can be treated with foliar fertilizers. This fertilizing will speed up the ripening of the vine.

Trimming

This procedure rejuvenates the bush, increases the quantity and quality of berries, and accelerates their ripening. By removing excess shoots, it is easier to cover the grapes for the winter, protecting them from frost. Pruning begins only after the leaves have fallen from the vine.. Early pruning will not allow you to store enough plastic substances in your sleeves for the coming winter. Pruning when frost begins makes the shoots brittle and they may break in the wrong place.

Many consider mid-September to be the optimal time for pruning.

When pruning, remove disease-damaged and dried out sleeves that need to be burned to destroy the infection. Then they give the bush correct form, cutting off shoots that thicken the bush and impair lighting and ventilation.

At autumn pruning Up to a third of spare buds and shoots are left on the grape bush, in case part of the sleeves freeze out or are damaged by mice. Be sure to remove unripe vines - they will freeze in the winter and serve as a source of infections in the spring.

Treatment against pests and diseases

After pruning, the vineyard is treated for pests and diseases. Autumn destruction of wintering forms of pathogens and pests will keep the bush healthy until spring.

A soda-saline solution can destroy the infection. For 10 liters of water you will need 10 tbsp. spoons of salt and 5 tbsp. l baking soda. The components are dissolved in warm water and the entire bush is treated, including the leaves. The frequency of treatments is at least 3 in mid-September.

Reduce numbers harmful insects and pathogens will be helped by digging up the soil around the grape bush.

The treated vine is laid on the ground. In 10 l hot water(40-50 degrees) dissolve 100g of copper or 400g of iron sulfate. The solution is sprayed on the vine laid on the ground. After the solution has dried, the bush can be covered for the winter. Calcium carbide will help scare away rodents from the bush all winter. It is used for welding work. Pieces of carbide in metal jars are left under cover. Carbide absorbs moisture from the air, and the gas released will repel mice and prevent diseases.

Winter frosts can destroy a grape plantation. Insulating the bush can protect the vine from low temperatures. Many materials can be used as insulation - from non-woven material to wooden panels or boxes. Each area has its own type of insulation. The creation of insulation is influenced by the variety of grapes being insulated and the method of its cultivation. Modern varieties are able to withstand low temperatures under light cover.

You can create shelters from various materials, it all depends on what is in abundance. In the northern regions, where coniferous spruce branches are available in sufficient quantities, this is the best covering material. Air passes through it in sufficient quantities, rotting processes do not begin under it, and pathogens are suppressed. A cover made of spruce branches retains snow well, creating favorable conditions for wintering grapes.

Where grape bushes are grown in trenches, in a convenient way insulation steel wooden panels. The vine is laid on the ground, treated against pests and diseases, carbide is laid to prevent mice, and covered with wooden shields on top. There are gaps between the boards for air circulation. The fallen snow will prevent the shelter from freezing. The lack of snow can be compensated for by non-woven material used to cover seedlings in the spring.

Use plastic film Not worth it for winter shelter. Under the film is created high humidity and there is no ventilation. Sudden changes temperatures cause condensation to appear, causing mold and fungal diseases.

Covering the bushes begins immediately after applying fertilizers and pruning the bushes - in late October - November.

How to properly prepare young bushes for winter

Grape bushes planted in this year don't cut. Only non-fallen leaves are removed from them. The bushes are watered; there is no need to apply fertilizers - they are applied during planting. Grapes of the second year of life are pruned, leaving 3-4 buds on one or two shoots. In the next two years, from 3 to 7 buds are left on the bush in the fall on mature shoots. Starting from the 4th year of life, fertilizers begin to be applied in the fall.

Preparing grapes for winter Middle lane

Preparing grape bushes for wintering in Middle lane start by removing unfallen leaves. Then the bushes are pruned, leaving a fruit shoot and a replacement knot on each sleeve. Sick, damaged and immature shoots are removed. You can identify an immature shoot by its sound - mature shoots make a cracking sound when bent. Fruit-bearing vines are also removed. It is useful to carry out cathartic treatment of bushes in the fall. Superficial or as they are also called dew roots are removed. The base of the bush is dug to a depth of about 15 cm and all exposed roots are removed. The hole is filled with dry sand.

In outskirts of Moscow

The most reliable way to protect grapes near Moscow from frost is if they are planted correctly. A planting hole measuring 60*60 cm with a depth of at least 15 will allow you to insulate the vine according to all the rules. On a dry, sunny day, the sleeves are rolled into a ring and placed on the bottom of the hole. The shoots are treated against possible diseases, leaving a pungent-smelling substance from mice - best of all, pieces of carbide. The top is covered with wooden shields or pieces of roofing felt. It is useful to additionally cover the resulting shelter with snow in winter.

Fruiting bushes are kept in winter frosts more complex cover. The cut grape sleeves are placed on dry boards, in as a last resort, on dry soil. Arcs from temporary greenhouses are installed above the bush. Coniferous spruce branches are laid on top of the arches. You can use branches left over from trimming conifers growing on the site. Coniferous spruce branches can be covered with two layers of spunbond to secure branches and preserve heat.

Instead of arcs, you can put together a box from scrap boards. It is installed on vines covered with conifers.

Shelter of grapes in the Urals

When growing grapes in the Urals, you need to thoroughly prepare for sheltering your plantings for the winter. Fruit buds preserved for spring will bring a decent harvest in the summer.

Sheltering begins in early October. At this time, all leaves remaining on the vines are removed, and after the first night frosts have passed, all fruit-bearing bushes are pruned. It is necessary to remove old, diseased, dried shoots. We leave the ripened fruit shoots and replacement knots. Young vines coming from the center of the bush are preserved. When pruning grapes in the fall, almost a third of the “spare” grapes are left to replace possible winter losses. In spring, unused eyes are removed.

A mandatory part of preparing for winter is catarrh. In autumn, be sure to remove dew roots to a depth of 15 cm. The resulting hole is filled with dry sand. The bushes prepared in this way are watered. Under each bush you need to pour about 10 buckets of water with the addition of potassium permanganate until it turns pale pink. All this is done immediately after harvesting. Top dressing in the form of a bucket of compost, two glasses of ash and 1 g of boric acid is applied to each square meter soil around the bush. Excessively acidic soil is limed.

Shortly before the onset persistent frosts The grape sleeves are rolled into a ring, bent to the ground and covered. Materials that allow free passage of air near the bush are suitable as shelter. Coniferous spruce branches, wooden panels or sheets of non-metallic slate are suitable. Additional insulation will be a 20-centimeter layer of dry sawdust or sunflower seed husks. One or two layers of spunbond will help protect them from blowing out. A layer of snow on such a shelter will never hurt.

As in other regions, preparing grapes for winter in Siberia begins immediately after harvest. At this time, up to 300 g of ash is added to each bush along with irrigation water. The potassium contained in the ash accelerates the ripening of the vine. Natural leaf fall is another component of a good winter. Dry ash applied to the soil destroys spores of fungal diseases.

With the onset of frost, the grape sleeves are removed from the supports. From small low temperatures the vine is covered with non-woven material.

October is the time for moisture-recharging irrigation of the vineyard. Pouring 50 - 80 liters of water per 1 m² of young vineyard area and 100-150 liters per 1 m² of fruit-bearing plantings will help saturate the deep soil layers with moisture. Soil moisture will protect grape roots from freezing.

Simultaneously with watering, the bush is pruned. Trimmed vines can be used to take cuttings. The bush, freed from excess shoots, is easier to cover for the winter. You just need to remember that you need to trim to a minimum. Before spring pruning you need to leave up to 1/3 of the kidneys in reserve in case of damage. Unripe shoots, fruit-bearing sleeves and disease-damaged vines must be removed. The fruiting bush is pruned, forming a fruiting link - the upper shoot is left for fruiting, the lower shoot is left for replacement.

In Siberian conditions the best material Fallen leaves are used to cover the vine for the winter. The soil under the bush can be covered with boards or dry sawdust. Place trimmed bushes on them. With the onset of stable sub-zero temperatures, the vine is covered with leaf litter up to 35 cm thick, and non-woven material. The next layer is coniferous spruce branches, trimmed shoots and tree branches or vegetable tops for snow retention. A layer of snow at least 50 cm thick will complete the insulation.

Another method of covering grapes for the winter, used by Siberian winegrowers:

1. The base of the grape bush is covered with earth as high as possible. The soil must be taken away from the bush so as not to expose the roots.
2. The vines of the bush are collected into a bunch and tied with a rope.
3. The next layer is several layers of non-woven material.
4. The insulation is completed by roofing felt.
5. The resulting “cocoon” is placed on wooden base– boxes or pallets.

Grapes grown in trenches are placed on the bottom and covered with several layers of spunbond or agrospan. The trench is covered with wooden shields. Insulation materials are placed on them - polystyrene foam, corrugated cardboard or polypropylene bags. The final layer is waterproofing roofing material or polyethylene. You can prevent damping off by creating side vents. They are closed when constant negative temperatures are established.

Rules for preparing grapes for wintering: video

Of course, the best remedy protection of grape plantings from frost is snow. It serves as the final layer for any method of covering in any region.

Most grape varieties have good frost-resistant properties, however, they require shelter during the winter season, as well as pre-treatment. Neglecting a number of necessary procedures can lead to a significant decrease in yield, as well as to the death of plants, especially in the first year of life. The more thoroughly you prepare for wintering, the easier and calmer the plant will endure the cold. The article below gives general recommendations care not only in the autumn, but also what work should be done in the winter season.

What does it include

Preparations for the winter period begin, depending on the region, from mid-September to the last days of November. Farmers say that healthy and full-fledged bushes retain their ability to budding up to 80%, and frost-resistant varieties up to 100%. Ideally, the thickness of the vine in this case should be from 6 to 14 mm, and the woodiness should be one third of the total cross-section. Find out about the benefits and harms of grape seeds.

Feeding

Feeding for bushes is introduced in several stages and in various ways:

1. First and foremost safe remedy plant nutrition - humus. To do this, you can collect rotten leaves mixed with turf in the area of ​​the root system, and add potassium components on top.
2. Adding lime. Vineyards love calcareous soils, but, unfortunately, this component is quickly washed away, so regular autumn and spring feeding of the bushes is necessary.
3. If it is necessary to plant new seedlings in the fall, then the planting hole is first filled with humus, then with turf, and after strengthening the trunk, sprinkle with potassium-molybdenum fertilizers. They are usually dissolved in 100 ml per 10 liters of liquid.

Watering

Before covering a fruit-bearing garden, there is an opinion that you need to water the bushes abundantly, but this is far from the case. Over the course of several months, the grapes will rot from the abundance of moisture and, accordingly, will rot and deteriorate. Therefore, experienced farmers say that moisture in autumn soil enough for the farm to withstand the cold. Read about planting grapes in the Moscow region.

To prevent the cold from penetrating the soil so much, it is necessary to increase watering in the fall.

Young plants that were planted this season are watered in small quantities.

Autumn pruning

Pruning grape vines produced 2, and in some cases 3 times per year. Each season has its own characteristics:

1. In the fall, all elements are inspected for diseases and dense branching.
2. Usually the crown is being formed, excess shoots are removed, leaving 5-7 buds on the vine. In case of technical varieties– there should be no more than 1-2 bunches on one shoot. This is done to lighten the weight of the branches, increase productivity in the future, harvesting and subsequent harvesting.

The cutting rules are quite simple:

• take the branch carefully, without breaking it;
• inspect and, if necessary, cut off;
• it is necessary to cut immediately, without breaking or twisting the vine, thereby injuring it.

For pruning, special pruning shears are used that eliminate shoots in one touch.

Sometimes farmers treat the cut with soda solution, charcoal or brilliant green. This is done for better corking.

Treatment

Preparation for the winter season cannot be complete without treatment against insects, fungal infections, gray rot and other diseases to which plants are prone. Such solutions are called fungicides. They can be purchased in concentrated or ready-to-use form, or prepared from available funds. Find out about Malbec grapes at.

They are best processed in autumn period due to the fact that insects usually overwinter together with the vines under shelters, which can significantly harm fragile branches in the spring.

The following subspecies are distinguished from folk substances that are harmless to fruits:

1. Potassium permanganate solution. Dissolve 5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water, and spray the surfaces with this solution, including the root part of the trunk.
2. Soda solution. 100 g of soda are diluted into a bucket of liquid and the entire bush is sprayed.

Treatment can be combined with simultaneous feeding, so the absorption of nutrients will be more effective.

Shelter

With the exception of the digging method, in the rest, slats are placed under the bent vine so that the plant does not come into contact with the ground, and the branches themselves are pulled in with wire or metal arches.

It is very good if the winter is snowy, then the snowdrift plays the additional role of a thermal curtain. And for additional ventilation, holes are left in the shelter, which are closed when the temperature drops below -20°C.

Scheme for covering young grape seedlings.

Work in winter

In most cases winter care boils down to regular inspection of the ridges for damage:

• ventilation control;
• isn't it too much strong moisture or dry soil
• whether there are mice in the covering material.

Trimming

Very rarely, but some gardeners practice winter pruning. This method of care is typical for southern latitudes, where winters are mild and have little snow.. In this case, it is possible to trim incapacitated branches that are visible through the film.

Pruning in the cold period is carried out only at a temperature not lower than -5°C, while also focusing on the vegetative abilities of the variety. If the grapes are not frost-resistant and do not tolerate intervention well, then the removal of branches is left until spring.

Watering

IN winter period Watering is done in extremely rare cases, only during snowless and dry winters. Signs that the plant needs moisture are immediately visible:

• the ground under the bushes is cracking;
• spots appear on the branches, there are a lot of dry, dying branches.

In this case, water not only clean water, but they add fertilizers there minerals. Watering is carried out using the method of scattering irrigation.

However, in mid-autumn it is necessary to water it thoroughly - this way you can prepare the plant for the winter period.

Post-winter work

After winter, when the night frosts have passed, the vineyards are opened and prepared for the next fruiting season. In addition to the fact that bushes are pruned in spring, as well as in autumn, to successfully increase yield there are certain rules, which are observed when opening the vine. He will tell you about the propagation of Maiden grapes.

How to open

Experienced farmers advise opening most varieties, including during the period when the snow has not yet melted. When the first positive indicators appear, the covering material is removed, but a kind of greenhouse is made from the film. It is fixed to the trellis, digging in a little at the bottom and tucking polyethylene under the bottom slats.

Thus, the vine lies for several days, thawing and straightening its branches. Z Then, when traces of new shoots are visible, it is carefully removed and secured in its main place.

Only after this the grapes are pruned and watered.

Video

In this video we will see how to quickly and correctly prepare grapes for the winter season.

conclusions

To successfully winter grapes, follow a few simple rules:

1. Autumn preparation, including not only pruning, but also watering, fertilizing, and also treating against possible fungal infections.
2. Shelter in winter, in Siberia and other regions. The more carefully and better the work is done, the easier the vineyard will withstand the cold. Do not forget about ventilation and air exchange in the ridges.
3. During the winter period, care comes down to monitoring the condition vineyards and making any adjustments to improve the condition.
4. After winter the vine is opened, but they give it a few days or weeks to breathe, get stronger and adapt. After this, the film is finally removed.