Which self-leveling finishing self-leveling floor is better? How to choose the best self-leveling self-leveling floor. The main advantages of polymer floors

Day by day, more and more completely new building materials are appearing. Of course, promotion of such products to the market does not happen at lightning speed. Repair is a thorough process, resulting in a stable effect on long years. Therefore, not everyone is ready to decide on an experiment and use unfamiliar material. But if the material has proven itself well, then its popularity grows like an avalanche. Such a building material as self-leveling flooring was no exception. Its popularity among consumers is constantly increasing. And an important role in this is played by the very simple and accessible technology installation of self-leveling floor. There is no need to ask for help professional builders. Provided that the instructions are strictly followed, anyone can successfully fill the final self-leveling floor with their own hands.

Features of self-leveling floor

Self-leveling flooring has a number of advantages:

• Durability. A properly poured floor will last for decades.
• Strength.

• Reacts well to sudden temperature changes.
• Not afraid of moisture.
• Resistant to all kinds of chemicals.
• Has increased fire safety.
• When heated, it does not poison the air with toxic substances.
• Excellent appearance for many years. You can verify this with the finishing self-leveling floor, the photo of which is presented below.

• The floor turns out perfectly flat. It is easy to care for. To maintain a flawless appearance, it is enough wet cleaning a couple of times a week.
• Mold and microorganisms do not multiply on the self-leveling floor, and dust does not linger.
• An undeniable advantage is the possibility of pouring a self-leveling floor over a warm floor.

Types of self-leveling floors

There are two main types of self-leveling floors:

• Polymer. Divided into:
  • Epoxy. Made from epoxy resins. They have increased mechanical strength, resistance to moisture and chemical substances. This type of self-leveling flooring is used mainly in production premises and in rooms with increased level humidity.
  • Epoxy urethane. The main places of application are areas with increased mechanical load. These are parking lots and platforms. The peculiarity of this self-leveling floor is its high strength and durability.
• Mineral. The mixture contains the following components:
  • Mineral fillers. It is on them that the characteristics of the self-leveling floor, such as plasticity, strength, and the time during which the material hardens, depend.
  • Modifiers.
  • Cement.

These mixtures have properties such as self-flowing and self-leveling. However, you still cannot do without their initial distribution over the floor surface.

More often mineral mixtures are used to level the floor and then cover it with other finishing materials.

There are three groups of mineral mixtures:

• Basic. Purpose - leveling unevenness and differences in concrete screed. Layer thickness up to 8 cm. Drying time about 12 hours.
• Average. Purpose - leveling cement-sand or concrete foundations with a slight difference in height. Layer thickness up to 3 cm. Drying time about 4 hours.
• Finish. Purpose - final alignment. It is applied provided that the height differences do not exceed 1 cm.

It is mineral mixtures that are used to fill floors in residential premises.

Manufacturers offer very wide choose mixtures for pouring self-leveling floors. Mixtures from the Economy series have a good reputation.

Self-leveling floor Econ finishing

When choosing a floor covering, pay attention to the finishing self-leveling floor Econ. Its main purpose is to level any horizontal bases and then lay floor coverings on it. Linoleum, laminate, carpet and even tile cladding can be used as flooring. The finished self-leveling floor, which is installed using the Econ mixture, does not tolerate high humidity and high mechanical loads very well. Therefore it is used this type self-leveling floors mainly in residential premises.

Among the main advantages I would like to highlight:

• This type of self-leveling floor is very easy to level.
• Possibility of technological passage within 8 hours.
• Environmental Safety.

The possible layer thickness when using this mixture is 3-15 mm.

It is used at temperatures from +5 to +30°C. Although it is best to carry out work at +18 - +20°C.

The hardening time of the finished mixture is about 30 minutes.

Hardening time of coating thickness:

• from 3 to 5 mm - 24 hours;
• from 5 to 15 mm - 72 hours.

The consumption of dry mixture for filling a floor with a layer of 1 mm is 1.8 kg/m2.

Preparing the base for the final self-leveling floor

The key to correct pouring of a self-leveling floor is careful preparation of the base for pouring. A floor poured onto an unprepared base loses most of its beneficial properties.

• Clean the subfloor thoroughly. If there was any covering on the floor, remove it. It is necessary to leave only clean concrete screed.
• Vacuum the cleaned surface thoroughly. Wash her.
• Examine the concrete screed for cracks, chips, oil and greasy stains. Remove any defects found from the base. Remove areas where the concrete is crumbling, areas with oil and grease stains, clean cracks from concrete chips.
• Prime all cracks and uneven areas. Cover them with any available building material: cement, concrete mortar, mastic, grout. The main thing is to achieve a flat surface for pouring the floor.
• Using a level, check that the base underneath the floor is horizontal. If the height difference is too large, it is advisable to preliminary alignment. The fact is that the smoother and horizontal surface, the less you will need a mixture of finishing self-leveling floor, the price of which significantly exceeds the cost of ordinary cement.
• Apply a primer to the previously leveled, cleaned and dried floor. The primer will not only close all remaining pores of the base, but will also provide more reliable adhesion of the screed to the self-leveling floor. The pores in the base must be closed. Otherwise, they will become a source of air entering the filling composition. The result is significant defects in the floor surface. Use a roller to apply the primer. Use a brush in hard-to-reach places. Don't skimp on primer. If there are a significant number of pores, it is advisable to repeat the procedure again.
• Along the entire perimeter of the prepared room and in locations doorways glue the foam deformation tape. Its purpose is a deformation or temperature-shrinkage seam. After pouring, the floor should under no circumstances be tightly adjacent to the walls. Otherwise, deformation of the building walls or an increase in temperature can lead to a violation of the integrity and appearance of the self-leveling floor. The deformation tape is removed only after the self-leveling floor has completely dried. The gap formed after its removal must be filled with sealant.

Pouring a self-leveling floor requires certain conditions:

• The air temperature should not fall below +15°C. Temperatures above +25°C are undesirable.
• Drafts are not allowed. Sudden changes temperatures lead to a deterioration in the quality of the finished mixture. An increase in temperature leads to faster hardening, and the time required to work with the solution is reduced. As the temperature drops, the solution becomes thicker, it is inconvenient to work with, and its consumption increases. In addition, temperature differences significantly affect the final characteristics of the floor: its strength, color, appearance.
• Substrate moisture content of more than 4% is unacceptable. If this is not possible, treat the base with a waterproofing compound. At least two treatments will be required.

If the basis is ceramic tile, it is necessary to check the strength of its fastening, degrease it using a solvent and coat it with a primer designed for working with smooth surfaces.

But under no circumstances should you use a wooden floor as a base. Even very careful preparation does not guarantee the achievement of an acceptable result.

Pouring the final self-leveling floor, instructions

Instructions for pouring a self-leveling floor include the following steps:

• Prepare the filling mixture. In doing so, strictly follow the manufacturers' recommendations. The quality of the self-leveling floor largely depends on the correct preparation of the mixture. Resin-based mixtures are mixed with a hardener, and cement-acrylic and polyurethane mixtures are mixed with water. The mixture has a normal, easy-to-work consistency that resembles a fairly thick, but free-flowing cream. The consistency is adjusted by changing the amount of water. Don't overdo it. Too much a large number of water can cause the floor to crack. If the room is large and it is impossible to dilute the mixture for its entire coating at one time, be sure to ensure that the consistency of the mixture of different batches is identical.

Advice. The mixture must be prepared immediately before use. Already 30 minutes after dilution most of The mixture begins to thicken. By this time, it is advisable to have time to apply it to the base and level it.

• Pour the diluted mixture onto the prepared base.
• Spread the mixture over the floor surface using a squeegee or spatula, achieving the required floor thickness. Typically the thickness is about 5mm. Increasing the thickness will improve the strength of the floor. But the consumption of materials, and accordingly the final cost of the work, will increase significantly.

• When pouring large area there is a need to move on a freshly poured floor. This can only be done in special shoes equipped with spikes on the soles. In this case, the mixture is poured in parts. These can be stripes or squares arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• The next step is to remove air from the mixture poured onto the base. For work, a special roller equipped with spikes is used. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the fill layer.

If the self-leveling floor is used exclusively for leveling and as a base for linoleum, carpet and other materials, then the work on pouring it at this stage can be considered completed. All you have to do is wait for it to dry completely.

Advice. It is believed that you can walk on a self-leveling floor within 2-3 hours after pouring. Do not do that. Let the floor dry for at least a day, and ideally 3-4 days.

If additional coating is not expected, then after complete drying, proceed to pour the finishing layer:

• Dilute the mixture.
• Pour the mixture onto the completely dry self-leveling floor.
• Spread the mixture over the entire floor surface very thin layer.
• Remove the air.
• Let it dry. If necessary, after complete drying, coat finishing layer varnish. This will not only preserve the excellent appearance of the floor for a long time, but will also significantly extend its service life.

Advice. After finishing pouring the finishing layer, try to maintain a stable temperature in the room for at least two more days. At first, the finished self-leveling floor must be protected from moisture.

The video below will help you better understand the technology of pouring the final self-leveling floor:

Flawless smooth canvas without a single flaw, glossy shine, pleasant to the touch surface - all these are arguments in favor of the decision to buy finishing self-leveling floor.

Having appeared on the market relatively recently, mixtures for creating these coatings have become a real find for both builders and interior designers.

Finish floors are made on the basis of polymer or mineral components. The first type includes epoxy and epoxy-urethane compositions. Mixtures of the second type include modifiers and cement.

Polymer floors are most often used as a finishing coating. There is every reason for this:

• The material is resistant to high humidity in a buiding.
• Polymers are not subject to fire.
• Certified mixtures are tested for environmental safety. Therefore, they can be used even in children's rooms.
• Thanks to antibacterial components, there is no risk of mold or mildew forming. The structure consists of small pores, where dirt particles hardly penetrate.
• The coating is easy to clean using regular household chemicals. The exception is products with abrasive particles that can scratch the surface.

The final self-leveling floor is your “canvas” for limitless creativity

Among the key advantages of fine coatings, experts and buyers note good heat transfer. This great option for installation of heated floors.

But the main advantage of the finished floor is rightfully considered decorative possibilities. The monolithic seamless fabric already looks luxurious, visually increasing the space. If desired, between the base and transparent layers, you can place sea pebbles and shells, photographs and drawings, sand and gravel - whatever your imagination dictates. The interior will be unique!

We offer buy finishing self-leveling floors from leading enterprises. Reasonable price will be another argument in favor of your choice.

Self-leveling floors are becoming more and more popular every year; the mixtures are produced according to strict technology, and therefore are of high quality. The attractiveness of the finished self-leveling floor is explained by short term drying, strength and durability. The main thing is to choose the right composition, and pouring the screed is quite simple.

Modern market offers a huge number of materials that differ in components, purpose and drying time.

By main component

Classification of self-leveling floors:

By layer thickness

According to this parameter, the finishing self-leveling floor is divided into 3 types:

• Thin layer.
• Thickness about 1 mm. It is a purely decorative surface. Self-leveling. Thickness 4–5 mm. Depending on the composition, it is used as finishing coat
• or draft. Highly filled.

The thickness of the layer largely depends on the purpose and level of traffic of the room

By purpose

Depending on the purpose, it is necessary to choose a specific type of solution. It is better to first consult with a specialist or look among your friends who are experienced in this field to buy what you need.

The self-leveling floor in the premises must be resistant to moisture, abrasion and mechanical stress. There are some special features for different rooms:

On the street

Finish flooring is rarely used outdoors, but if it was decided to do just that, you need to choose materials that do not absorb water and are resistant to low temperatures and impact sun rays. Compositions based on resins or polymers are better suited.

By type of base

For wooden floors and foam coatings it is necessary to use cement materials. They are laid in a layer of 4 cm with mandatory reinforcement. If you plan to install heated floors, mixtures based on mineral fillers. Concrete screeds can be coated with any finishing material. Finishing bitumen, hardboard or tiles It's better not to do it. It is recommended to remove the old coating and fill it. If this is not possible, it is necessary to make a floating type finishing layer.

Self-leveling coatings can be installed on most types of base, including on wooden flooring and in a heated floor system

Review of popular universal solutions

Such materials are called universal because they can be used for rough leveling. After drying, a coating is formed High Quality, which does not require further finishing.

Overview of decorative mixtures

In this case we are talking about expensive materials, which are applied in a thin layer. The use of such funds for starting work is inappropriate.

Tools and materials

In addition to the mixture itself, to level the floor coverings with your own hands you will need Additional materials and tools. It is recommended to purchase everything before starting work, so as not to have to make forced stops later.

Filling the surface

To pour the finishing floor, you need to prepare all the listed tools and materials. After this, you need to remove furniture and other objects from the room, remove the baseboards and remove the old covering. The floor is cleaned of dust and debris and carefully inspected. All cracks, potholes and other defects are covered with starting putty, and after drying they are sanded. Then you should check the horizontalness of the floor covering. If the differences are large, then it is better to first level them with a screed or starting liquid mixtures. Small unevenness (0.1–0.5 cm) can be eliminated using a finishing mixture.

The durability and attractiveness of self-leveling floors largely depends on the quality of base preparation.

After this, you need to treat the entire area with a primer. deep penetration. Before pouring it is recommended to ensure the necessary conditions: the air temperature should be from +5 to +25 C, the presence of drafts is unacceptable.

To do this, it is important to follow the instructions:

1. The solution is prepared immediately before application. It is better to make small portions, since the material sets within 20–30 minutes.
2. Pour the mixture into the far corner of the room and level it with a squeegee.
3. Roll the coating with a needle roller to remove air.

Thus, you need to fill the entire room. Walking on uncured coating is only possible with paint shoes. The floor will be ready within a few hours, but experts recommend using it only after 3-4 days.

Self-leveling flooring as an option for arranging surfaces is now quite popular. It has a lot of advantages, but it is important to remember that they all relate only to materials that are made using the right technology, so it is recommended to buy them in large, trusted chain stores.

Self-leveling floors appeared relatively recently and did not have time to acquire several decades of experience, like traditional concrete screed. But thanks to their operational characteristics are successfully gaining popularity, gradually pushing aside more “venerable” categories, both in the segment of rough bases and in the segment of finishing decorative coatings. Naturally, so interesting and universal material could not go unnoticed among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal.

Both base and finish

Self-leveling floor is a type of screed that forms a monolithic, seamless coating on the surface, the creation of which uses self-leveling (self-leveling) mixtures. According to its purpose, it is divided into two categories - leveling base and finishing decorative coating.

Leveler

Available in the form of dry mixtures mixed with water. The presence of fine-grained fillers (up to 250 microns), mineral binders and modifiers in the composition ensures plasticity and uniformity of the solution. Depending on the manufacturer and scope of application, sub-level self-leveling floors may have a cement or gypsum base.

After hardening, a strong, wear-resistant, smooth, Smooth surface, designed for subsequent cladding.

Unlike cement-sand screed, the result is an elastic coating that is not subject to cracking and shrinkage. In addition, bulk leveling mixtures gain brand strength faster - on average, in 15 days. There are also special compositions that harden within a few hours.

The thickness of the poured layer depends on the parameters of the base, the lower limit is 5 mm. Some brands can be filled with a layer of up to 60 mm. Leveling mixtures are used as a rough coating for facing laminate, linoleum, tiles, parquet, decorative self-leveling flooring and others that require a perfectly flat base. The difference allowed according to SNiP is 2 mm/m², and levelers allow you to quickly and efficiently prepare the base.

The mixture is selected based not only on the data of the base for pouring and the required thickness, but also on the compressive strength of the screed, since different cladding requires different strengths. For example, for laminate will do almost any self-leveling floor, and for decorative self-leveling flooring based on epoxy - the most durable. For technical rooms where finishing is not always carried out, it is worth using industrial-grade “fillers” with a strength of 35 MPa or more, our forum members are aware of this.

Palych P34 FORUMHOUSE Member

For laminate flooring, a floor strength of 8-10 MPa is sufficient; almost any self-leveling material will do. And for epoxy you need a strength of 25 MPa. Here only high-strength bulk liquids can cope.

Finishing

Decorative self-leveling floors have all the advantages of levelers - they provide a strong, durable, wear-resistant and perfectly smooth coating. But at the same time, in addition to an impressive set of characteristics, they also have an attractive appearance - imitation marble, ornate patterns, combinations of contrasting tones, fancy multi-colored mixes, seabed, with a three-dimensional effect (3D) and many others.

Although polymer-cement floors, intended for leveling the base for finishing, are sometimes used as a finishing coating, special decorative self-leveling mixtures are polymer, which greatly expands the possibilities of decoration. The composition of polymer floors is one-component or two-component, based on polyurethane or epoxy resin, with modifying additives. Both levelers and finishing self-leveling floors tolerate temperature changes and heating well, so they can be used in a heated floor system. But Maximum temperature The compositions are different; when choosing, you should pay attention to this indicator.

The thickness of the poured layer varies from 1 to 8 mm, so to create decor you can use not only flat, but also convex elements - coins, shells, pebbles.

“Nivaikas” are especially relevant in high-traffic areas, technical rooms, bathrooms and kitchens. However, a decorative coating with a three-dimensional effect can decorate a living room, a bedroom, or a children's room, whether it is branded or homemade. – multilayer coating, including:

• base layer – prepared base;
• the decorative coating itself - a three-dimensional photograph on special paper or fabric, homemade posters, pictures, drawings, fabric, small decorations and the like;
• finishing layer – transparent polymer;
• protective layer– varnish.

Self-leveling flooring with a three-dimensional effect is an expensive pleasure, even if self-installation, and if you hire professionals, the price doubles. Simpler polymer floors, plain, imitating marble or with colored “blots”, will cost less, but still not the most available material. However, the decorativeness of the coating and its durability, subject to compliance technological process, reimburse the costs.

Installation technology

Although the self-leveling floor does not create any particular difficulties in operation, it is necessary to strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions; even minor violations may result in the need to dismantle the expensive cladding that has “reared up on its hind legs.” Installation is carried out in several stages.

Preparing the base

Depending on the brand, self-leveling mixtures can be used on wooden, concrete and slab bases after appropriate finishing.

Wooden floor – the boards are checked for strength, if necessary, weakened segments are cut out and replaced. The baseboard is dismantled, the previous coating is cleaned off, small cracks are sanded to open, the cracks are sealed repair mixture. Checking the moisture content of the base is mandatory. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise defects may appear in the future. All dirt and dust are removed, and if necessary, the wood is degreased. The last step is to treat the surface with a deep penetrating compound. The primer will not only ensure adhesion of the composition to the base, but also seal the canvas.

Concrete base - if we are talking about repair work, the previous coating is removed, the surface is cleaned of dust and debris. If work is carried out on a fresh screed, the level is measured, the protrusions are chipped off, cracks and potholes are repaired. From the moment of pouring the screed until pouring the level or decorative coating at least 28 days must pass. As with wood floors, the moisture level of the substrate must be maintained, with most mixtures requiring a standard of 4%.

VadimXL7 FORUMHOUSE Member

Don't neglect humidity. If ahead of schedule Once you start pouring the polymer, problems cannot be avoided. Of course, pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. There are materials with a humidity tolerance of 5-12%, and there are also vapor-permeable ones, where the humidity is not regulated (such floors are matte). It is better to control humidity with a moisture meter.

If you don't have it at hand special device, VadimXL7 suggests using a proven method - a piece polyethylene film size 1x1 meter. It is glued to the floor with tape for a day. If, after tearing off, there is moisture on the film, or the concrete has darkened due to moisture, pouring is postponed until both the film and the concrete remain dry. At the end of the preparation, the surface, cleaned of dust and contaminants, is thoroughly primed.

Tile – there is no need to dismantle the entire coating; it is enough to strengthen the peeling elements, clean the surface of dirt and prime it.

In addition to standard preparation, when it comes to pouring a polymer floor over a screed or self-leveling leveler, VadimXL7 recommends using a grinder or, at home, using an ordinary grinder with an attachment. This is done to remove the “milk” and open the pores, after which the surface is vacuumed and primed.

The choice of primer depends on the type of self-leveling floor that will be poured; for a polyurethane floor, polyurethane primer; for an epoxy floor, epoxy primer.

For highly porous substrates, several layers of soil are applied; the room must be ventilated so that the humidity does not increase. The primer is applied with a roller to the main surface and with a wide brush in corners and hard-to-reach places.

To increase sound insulation and prevent adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the walls, which can lead to deformation, a damper tape is used, as when performing a dry screed. Its width must be no less than the layer being poured; the remains are cut off after the composition has hardened.

Preparing the mixture

Manufacturers indicate exact instructions on containers with mixtures. Do not violate the proportions: if you exceed the specified amount of water, the characteristics of the floor are reduced - both strength and durability. The self-leveling floor does not tolerate dilution “by eye”; it is better to bother with a measuring cup than to spoil the expensive material and your mood. The compositions are mixed with a construction mixer. It is not recommended to prepare a large volume at once, since the solution has a short lifespan and you may not have time to use it up. A forum member encountered a similar situation IntroCom.

Modern floor finishing technologies today make it possible to quickly and effectively solve surface leveling problems. So, in last years For floor leveling, technology using a self-leveling self-leveling mixture has become popular. She has a number positive aspects ahead of its counterparts. It’s worth noting right away that working with this material requires a special technology. However, rest assured, you can make a self-leveling self-leveling floor with your own hands. To do this, you should thoroughly understand the essence of this issue, which is what we want to help you with.

Features of self-leveling floor

Self-leveling self-leveling flooring is an excellent alternative to conventional cement-sand screeds. It has a number of positive aspects. For example, pouring a traditional screed requires a lot of labor. Moreover, after finishing pouring the screed, you must wait a long time until it is completely dry. As for leveling the screed with a self-leveling floor, everything is different here.

The self-leveling floor has special components that allow it to dry quickly. And although they differ in composition, the principle of use is almost the same. Even if you do not have sufficient experience in such work, you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. As for the composition, in addition to cement and quartz sand, it contains plasticizers. This is the only reason why this composition is so easy to use. Thanks to the presence of plasticizers in the composition, the self-leveling self-leveling floor easily spreads over the surface.

Important! It is worth noting that the use of a self-leveling composition is allowed when the screed difference is up to 20 mm. If the difference is greater, then you need to contact classic version leveling the floor.

There is some difference liquid mixtures. For example, if you want to arrange 3D floors or the facing will not be laid on top flooring, then it is recommended to use an epoxy-based mixture. For normal use, that is, with subsequent floor covering, conventional self-leveling mixtures can be used. This still needs to be thought about at the planning stage of repair work.

What you need to prepare

To level the floor, first of all you need to collect suitable tool and material. Before you start purchasing required material, it is important to calculate it. For this you can use simple formula which today is known as:

1.8 × H × S = V.

Based on this formula, all these values ​​have this formulation:

• 1.8 is a coefficient showing how many kilograms of mixture will be required to fill the area of ​​the room by one square meter 1 mm thick.
• H here refers to the thickness of the layer of the required screed in millimeters.
• S this to everyone famous square, only the calculations take into account the actual floor area that will be leveled.
• V is final result, indicating how many kilograms of mixture are needed to level the floor.

Based on these calculations, you can perform very simple calculations. For example, if we start from this formula, then for a room of 18 m2, a screed thickness of up to 15 mm will require about two bags of the mixture. In addition to the self-leveling mixture, a primer for the floor surface is also necessary. Without it, it is not recommended to carry out any leveling actions.

As for the tools, in order to level the floor well, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• Fabric roller.
• Paintshoes.
• Container for mixing the leveling mixture.
• Needle roller.
• Construction mixer for mixing.

With this set of materials and tools, you can begin all the work. Now it’s time to introduce you to the technology of how floor leveling is carried out. This will be discussed further.

Floor leveling technology

All work comes down to several sequential actions, which are as follows:

1. Preparing the base.
2. Preparation of self-leveling mixture for self-leveling floor.
3. Direct filling of the floor.

So first of all, preparation is done. You should not rush at this stage, because the final result will directly depend on it. So, there should be no depressions, cracks or other damage on the base of the floor. If, after preliminary measurements, you find that the floor has very large unevenness, then you need to do a preliminary rough leveling of the floor before pouring the floor. cement-sand screed. Floors can be leveled using other technology, the main thing is to achieve an almost ideal surface.

If your floor surface is relatively flat, then you should thoroughly clean it to remove any dirt. For this you can use construction vacuum cleaner which will remove all the dust. After this, the entire area must be thoroughly primed.

Advice! If during the priming process you notice that the primer is absorbed very easily and quickly, this is a sign that the base is hygroscopic. In this case, it is recommended to apply the primer as a second, and possibly a third, layer.

The self-leveling floor should be made only when the applied soil is completely absorbed and dry. Now let's look at some tips and tricks on how to properly prepare a self-leveling mixture. It is mainly necessary to rely on the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer of the self-leveling floor mixture. So, you need to prepare a large container and fill it with the required volume cold water. A portion of the self-leveling mixture is added to the water. Immediately after this, the mixture is thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer. You need to stir until you reach a creamy consistency. That is, you should get a homogeneous consistency without any lumps.

Important! When preparing a mixture for a self-leveling self-leveling floor, you should strictly adhere to the proportions specified by the manufacturer. For example, if you add more water, then the self-leveling floor will not be as strong; if there is too little water, then sagging will form on the floor. This is explained by the fact that the thick mixture of self-leveling floor does not spread well.

After preparing the mixture, it should be allowed to stand for 10 minutes. After this, you should mix it again. From the moment of preparation, it is recommended to use the self-leveling self-leveling floor within the first 20 minutes. If the composition thickens, it is unsuitable for use. It is unacceptable to add water to a thickened mixture. For this reason, before preparing the composition, it is important to carry out all the base preparations in advance.

Pouring self-leveling floor

The final stage is pouring the self-leveling floor. There should be no drafts in the room. The temperature of the base should not be lower than 5°C. At this stage, all work on cleaning the floor and priming it has already been completed. Therefore, we begin to directly describe the process of manufacturing a self-leveling self-leveling floor.

The prepared mixture is applied to the floor in the form of strips up to 500 mm wide. Next you will need wide spatula, which is put on a special rod. A spatula is necessary to evenly distribute the entire mixture over the floor. Don't rush too much and don't hesitate either. If you are pouring a second or subsequent portion, then it is unacceptable for the edge of the already poured strip to dry out. A new portion of the self-leveling floor mixture should combine well with the previous one. This will only be possible if all work is completed promptly. Therefore, as experts advise, one room should be filled at one time.

What to do if the area to be filled is large. In this case, the floors are filled with stripes. Those who manufacture self-leveling self-leveling floors often use special pumping units, allowing to automate the work process as much as possible. When doing the work yourself, you will most likely need help. It will be difficult to fill large areas of floors on your own. After all, at the same time it is necessary to prepare the mixture, pour it and level it.

It is important to consider one more nuance regarding the thickness of the layer. On the packaging, the manufacturer indicates the recommended thickness of the screed. It is unacceptable to increase the thickness of the self-leveling floor. Otherwise, this may lead to the fact that the service life of the screed will be very short. This is the only way to achieve maximum quality. And once again it is worth recalling that a self-leveling self-leveling floor is not intended for leveling large curvatures. It serves as a finishing coat.

As for the hardening period of the applied layer of self-leveling floor, this factor is influenced by the thickness, indoor temperature and prevailing humidity level. By finished surface You can already walk after 6-12 hours. After three days, the floor covering may already be subject to maximum loads. This is how the floor is leveled self-leveling floors. The essence of the whole technology is very simple, so you can definitely bring everything to life.

Conclusion

So, here we have looked at all the features of making a self-leveling self-leveling floor. For more details on how to do all this with your own hands, watch the video. We hope that the material provided in this article was useful to you. At least you've received a lot of useful food for thought. In any case, self-leveling self-leveling flooring is a reality. You are required to comply with all process technology. As a result, you will get durable and smooth floors in your home. If you have experience in similar works, then you can leave comments on this article. They can be useful for all novice DIYers.