home · Appliances · How to properly connect sockets in an apartment. How to properly install and connect the socket? Connection diagrams. Preparations before installation

How to properly connect sockets in an apartment. How to properly install and connect the socket? Connection diagrams. Preparations before installation

Connecting an outlet is a responsible process that requires the installer to know all the rules and nuances of electrical installation work. Loads on electrical installation components are constantly increasing, so even minor violations of the requirements can lead to overheating of devices, melting of contacts and a fire hazard.

Without sufficient information, it is better not to undertake any work with electrical wiring at all. However, home craftsmen who have studied this issue do not experience any difficulties in connecting and operating sockets.

Socket design and diagram

Connecting an outlet is a task that almost everyone has had to perform home handyman. It would seem, what could be simpler? However, this process is not as trivial as it seems at first glance. To ensure that the operation of an electrical outlet does not become a source of problems, especially in highly loaded residential networks, it is necessary to understand the design and know the basic requirements for installing a switchgear.

The socket consists decorative box with a captive screw, socket box and socket assembly. The contact block is equipped with the following elements:

  • fastening legs - can be expandable, movable on screws or solid-cast, stationary;
  • contacts - neutral and phase (identical in design), grounding, located separately;
  • terminals for connecting wires to contacts.

Device Notes:

  1. The terminals can be connected to the contacts with screws or made together with the contacts. Last option more reliable. Terminals that are fixed with screws must be sorted out before installation and the mating areas must be treated with cold solder (conductive paste). After lubrication, tighten tightly with screws.
  2. Pads with movable legs are more difficult to install. However, thanks to their design, it is possible to adjust the position of the block on the wall in terms of inclination and height. It is advisable to choose pads with two-tooth claws; “single-tooth” models quickly become loose.
  3. On the wire side there may be screw terminals or in the form of “brush brushes”. The latter option is more reliable, but does not provide for the possibility of overhaul. Screw terminals are lubricated with cold solder before use.

Preparatory activities before connecting the outlet

Socket selection

There are many types of sockets that have both universal and special purposes.

Not all of them are used in everyday life. Most Popular following types sockets:

  • C 1a - switchgear not equipped with grounding contacts. Main purpose - work on sites electrical network, Where D.C. less than 10 A, alternating - up to 16 A. Not suitable for connection powerful devices. Must withstand 250 V.
  • C 2a - sockets with lateral grounding devices. The design provides an internal terminal for supplying a PE wire. Used to connect pumps, electric stoves, washing machines/dishwashers.
  • C 3a - the socket mechanism has a pin-type grounding contact. It differs from C 2a in the configuration and location of the grounding.
  • C 5 - traditional Soviet sockets. They are released square shape with a round cutout for an electrical appliance plug. Such models are well suited for powering old household appliances. C 5 sockets can withstand current up to 6 A, installation - without grounding.
  • From 6 - “euro” sockets that protrude greatly beyond the surface of the wall. Such distribution devices are suitable for most household electrical appliances, as they have wide holes for the plug.

Advice. To install a socket with a grounding contact, you must purchase a three-core cable. Three wires are connected to neutral, phase and ground. Installation of a socket without grounding is carried out with a two-core cable.

The choice of outlet largely depends on the purpose of the room itself. Moisture-proof models are installed in the bathroom, kitchen, and swimming pools. In industrial and warehouse buildings - sockets that have a high degree of protection against the penetration of dust and other solid particles. The level of security can be determined from the IP marking.

Laying the wire under the socket

There are two options for laying the wire: open and hidden electrical wiring. The choice of one method or another largely depends on the nature of the room: humidity, dust, fire and explosion hazards, chemical activity of the environment.

External wiring is laid on the wall surface using in various ways fastenings This option has both pros and cons. Among the main advantages open method relate:

Disadvantages of open wiring:

  • unaesthetic appearance- stretched wires often spoil the interior of the room;
  • exposed electrical wiring is exposed to external factors and it is easier to damage than a hidden one.

Important! IN wooden houses Electrical wiring must be laid using an open method.

When arranging open wiring, use different ways laying cables and wires: along the surface of the ceiling/wall, in boxes, pipes, flexible metal boxes, electrical trim and baseboards.

Connecting several sockets is done using a loop (parallel connection) or a star (via a distribution box). The choice of option depends on the acceptable cable consumption, ease of connection and the power of electrical appliances in the room.

Connection diagram power socket train

For installation hidden socket First you need to make a groove in the wall, place a wire that fits one end to the power supply and the other to the outlet. The next step is installation of the socket box.

Important! The cable is laid in the groove with a reserve of conductor inserted into the sub-socket box of about 10 cm.

Installation of a socket box

Hidden sockets require a recess. This hole is made using a special attachment (crown) on a drill.

Drilling procedure in a concrete wall:

  1. Mark the location of the outlet on the wall, observing the basic placement requirements:
    • from the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
    • distance from gas equipment to the electrical wiring branch - at least 50 cm.
  2. Place the bit on the drill and start drilling.
  3. Finish drilling when the bottom of the bit rests against the wall.
  4. A hammer drill with a nozzle was used to remove the core. You can also use a hammer and chisel for this work.
  5. Trim the back wall.

The next stage is the fitting of the cadet. If the box “sits” well, then you need to squeeze out the plug and insert the cable through the hole. Next, apply a little alabaster to the back/side walls of the box and “press” it into the hole.

How to connect the socket

The entire process of connecting an outlet can be divided into several stages:

How to connect a double socket: assembly features

The procedure for connecting a double socket depends on its type: stationary or prefabricated. For installation of a stationary socket, the design provides contacts with clamps. The supply wires must be connected to various conductive plates.

Important! You cannot connect two power cables, zero and phase, to one plate. Such a connection is very dangerous - when the machine is turned on, a short circuit will occur and the electrical wiring may be damaged.

An assembled double socket is essentially two single sockets located side by side. How to properly connect two distribution devices, if the power cable is laid under one socket? It is necessary to make a jumper by transferring a piece of cable from one box to the second. All wires will be connected in parallel to each other.

Compliance with safety precautions when installing sockets

Installation of electrical fittings is carried out in compliance with safety regulations:

  1. Electro installation work performed only in a de-energized room. First, you need to complete all the preparatory steps: knock out the grooves, drill holes and holes, lay the wire, and lastly, connect the cable.
  2. Each connected wire must be checked with a phase indicator.
  3. Perform all work special tool with rubber insulated handles.
  4. If it is necessary to “extend” the electrical wire, then the coupling points must be soldered, not twisted.
  5. When installing a switch or socket, do not allow body contact with exposed conductors.
  6. When installing an outlet into a wall, you need to make sure that it is securely insulated and tightly secured.
  7. Excess wire should be carefully laid into the wall or shortened to the required length.
  8. Use wires and equipment specifically designed for electrical work, designed for rated current and power.

Compliance with basic safety standards will allow you to perform high-quality work on connecting and operating sockets.

Replacing or installing an outlet in most cases does not require calling a technician to your home. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the theory and safety rules to get started and complete it quite successfully.

Often in the kitchen or in any other room where several household appliances are used simultaneously, there is a catastrophic lack of a free outlet.

The problem can be solved by installing a double socket.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine, i.e. wire affiliation. To do this you will need a tester screwdriver and rubber gloves.

The cover of the old socket is removed and measurements are taken using a tester. In phase the indicator will light up, and in neutral wire will indicate the absence light signal. Of course, there are cable colors, but it's better to be safe.

Then the line must be de-energized through the meter - this is a basic safety rule. The levers are moved to the off position! This is the bottom position of the switches.

The voltage at the installation site of the double socket is checked again.

If there is still current in the phase (that is, the line is not de-energized), it is necessary to turn off all the circuit breakers, and not just those that, as you think, control the wires going to the outlet.

Before installing a double socket, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • insulating tape;
  • sharp knife for stripping wires;
  • Phillips and flat head screwdriver;
  • pliers.

Double sockets are single terminal devices equipped with distribution strips.

On a note. Such an outlet is not very convenient if you plan to use two powerful devices - the voltage is the same, but the current strength in each outlet will depend on the load of the adjacent one. Therefore, it is preferable to produce parallel connection two sockets.

The cable used is the same as the main wiring in the room. The materials must also be the same. If the eyeliner is done aluminum wire, it is also used when connecting sockets.

Use of the device requires caution. The total load on this type of outlet should not exceed 10-16 A.

Installation steps - do everything in order

The double socket connection diagram consists of the following steps:

This completes the installation work. If the quality of the installation is in doubt, you must contact professional electrician. He will inspect your work and make sure that operation will not lead to electric shock.

Video on how to install a double socket

Before connecting an outlet, you need to decide exactly how to connect it to the existing network. To do this, you need to imagine exactly how it will be used in the future: for one low-power electrical appliance or several devices.

Open and closed wiring

The difference between the methods is noticeable to the naked eye. The closed wiring is located inside the wall, for which grooves (grooves) are punched or cut into it, in which the connecting wire is hidden under a layer of putty. Open wiring is laid along the surface of the wall, on which it is held in special fasteners or laid in plastic guides - cable channels.

Accordingly, if you can see the wires that fit into the outlet, then the wiring open type. Otherwise, closed wiring is used, for the installation of which the walls were cut.

These two methods of connecting an outlet can be combined with each other - if the old points are connected in a closed way, then nothing prevents you from connecting a new one open. There is only one choice - in wooden houses the socket can only be connected open method, as well as doing all the other electrical wiring.

Open wiring - advantages and disadvantages

Understand what is good open wiring An analogy with the most common extension cord will help ( surge protector), which is essentially an additional branch of the electrical network, but is not connected to distribution box, and to the outlet.

Advantages:

  • You don't have to cut the wall to install a new outlet. This is especially true for those premises that have already been renovated.
  • Installation does not require tools such as a wall chaser or a hammer drill.
  • In the event of a breakdown, you don’t have to open the wall - all the wiring is in front of your eyes.
  • Installation speed. Even after all the work has been completed, adding another point to the existing wiring is a matter of several minutes.
  • If desired, you can quickly completely change the wiring - perfect option for temporary connection schemes.

Flaws:

  • There is a high probability of external influence on the wiring - children, pets, you can simply accidentally hook it. This drawback is mitigated by laying wires in cable channels.
  • Exposed wires spoil the entire interior of the room. True, it all depends on the design abilities of the owner of the premises - cable channels will fit perfectly into modern design solutions, and if the room is made in a retro style, then special wires and other accessories are produced for this.
  • The need to purchase special fasteners, even if cable channels are not used - in wooden houses, open wiring should be laid at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the wall surface. Wires are often routed internally iron pipes– all these requirements are aimed at increasing the safety of using open electrical wiring.

As a result, this connection method justifies itself if for some reason there is no point in laying the wires to the outlet inside the wall. Besides the fact that the wiring will be visible, there will be no differences in the operation of the outlet.

Hidden wiring - pros and cons

Despite some significant shortcomings, is used almost everywhere - the advantages of its use still outweigh.

Advantages:

  • The wires to the socket fit into the wall, so wallpaper or other finishing can be done freely on the outside.
  • Meets all requirements for fire safety(in concrete buildings) - even if a short circuit occurs, there is no fear of a fire from the wires in the wall.
  • There is a very low probability of damage to the wiring - it can only be damaged when drilling walls.

Flaws:

  • For installation you need to cut the walls.
  • It is difficult to carry out repair work.
  • If the walls are finished, then after installing an additional outlet you will have to redo it.

Disadvantages are leveled out preliminary calculations– if you plan in advance where and which block of sockets should be installed, then problems in the future usually do not arise.

Existing connection methods

Two or more sockets can be connected relative to each other and other circuit elements in only three ways: in series, parallel or mixed connection. In other words, the first two methods are called connecting sockets with a cable and a star.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account before deciding which socket connection diagram will be used in each specific case– it mainly depends on what kind of cable is needed and its quantity.

No less attention should be paid to what kind of wiring is already installed in the apartment - if the device being connected is high power, then it is likely that to connect the outlet you will have to pull a new wire from the distribution panel near the meter.

The most important rule, which in all cases must be taken into account when connecting sockets into circuits - each twist of wires together is a weak link electrical circuit– the more there are, the higher the likelihood that the wiring will fail over time.

Parallel connection - star connection

The essence of the method is that several points are connected in one place, which bears the entire load when electrical appliances are simultaneously turned on. In practice, parallel connection of sockets means that one main cable comes into the distribution box of the room, from which the remaining sockets are powered. An important point is that with this method, a separate wire goes to each point from the junction box.

The advantages of the method are obvious - each outlet works autonomously and if one of them fails, the rest will continue to work. The disadvantage is that if the central contact, from which all points are powered, burns out, then there will be no voltage in any of them, but this is also an advantage, since it will be known with a high degree of certainty where to look for a break.

The next disadvantage of parallel connection of sockets is the high consumption of wire, because a separate wire must be laid from the central contacts to each point. The problem is partly solved by the fact that a wire of a larger cross-section can be laid to the central contacts, and a thinner wire can be run from it to the sockets, but in this case a mixed connection is used.

Serial connection - daisy chain connection

Connecting sockets with a cable means connecting them one after another, and instead of twisting wires, the contacts of the sockets themselves are used. Those. phase and zero come to the first socket, and from it the wires are transferred to the second, third, and so on - until the last point.

IN pure form connecting sockets with a cable is used only if it is necessary to connect a block of sockets or move the point some distance. In the latter case, the old socket is not always removed - often it is left, because if there is a rearrangement, then it is not advisable to pick at the wall again.

The next feature that distinguishes the connection of sockets with a cable is that you cannot connect powerful devices to them, such as air conditioners, washing machines, microwaves and conventional electric ovens. This ban was dictated big amount connections that distinguish a daisy chain connection, and each of them is a weak link in the electrical circuit.

Connecting a block of sockets with a cable is described in detail in this video:

Mixed connection and grounding for daisy chain connection

You can increase the reliability of wiring when using a serial connection of sockets by using a mixed connection. Its essence is that the main cable comes into the junction box of the room, and then the farthest outlet is connected from it. Next, branches are made from this wire to the remaining sockets, which are located between the far point and the junction box.

With this connection, wiring cable is saved, and the reliability of the network increases, since if one of the sockets fails, the rest will work (unless the twist near the main cable burns off).

connecting the ground through a branch, the twist is hidden in the sub-socket

When a series connection of sockets is used, therefore, grounding is also required - if you simply run a grounding wire from terminal to terminal, then if it burns out on one of them, the remaining sockets are left without protection. If you run one cable through all the sockets, but make a branch near each of them, then reliability increases.

Most The right way, how to properly connect an outlet with a mixed connection, which is used in most cases - run the main wire under the ceiling and make branches from it down to the outlet boxes. If the wiring cross-section allows, then several points can be connected with a cable to one descending wire.

The disadvantage of this connection is the same as that of serial connectiona large number of twists (plus, on each branch, you need to make a small distribution box). In order not to think once again about whether it is possible to connect powerful electrical appliances to such sockets, you need to carefully calculate the wiring, and it is better to use a parallel connection.

In this video you can see how a mixed connection is made: the ground is connected through a branch, and the phase and neutral are connected via a loop.

Ring connection

The connection scheme is somewhat exotic for post-Soviet countries, but undoubtedly has its advantages. Its meaning is to lay a full circle of the main cable from the main electrical panel throughout the apartment, which will return to its beginning. In each room, inserts are made into it, which will be distribution boxes, from which a ring is laid around the room, and from it branches go to individual sockets or their loop groups.

In this case, if the wire burns out anywhere, then the subsequent part of the wiring remains working, since the current will come to it from the other side of the ring. Thus, in terms of reliability, this method is practically no worse parallel connection. On the other hand, if the wiring burns out, then it must be repaired in any case, and the wire consumption is still higher than that of a standard connection.

How to choose the right method

It all depends on the amount you can afford to spend, the power of the device that will be connected to this outlet, as well as the presence or absence of decoration on the walls (the desire and ability to ruin it).

In any case, the most reliable way to connect any outlet is a separate (parallel) connection directly to the main panel or distribution box in the room (if the cable cross-section allows). If the outlet is planned only for connecting a TV or similar not very powerful devices, then a daisy chain connection is also quite suitable.

If you plan to install wiring in a new house or modernize (replace) an old one in an apartment, then first of all you need to, without undue modesty, imagine what electrical appliances you would like to have - what can be connected to the network in principle. Based on this, it is already possible to calculate the required cross-section of wires and the method of connecting them.

- the activity is quite safe if you follow basic rules. Moreover, this is a simple procedure that takes no more than 15 minutes, when there is already a socket for installation, with a fixed socket.

Socket design, its types, brief connection diagram

Before considering the issue of connecting an outlet, let’s briefly study its components and types. The design of the product is simple, it includes a housing and a working unit. As for the body, it performs an insulating and decorative function. The working unit has an insulating base, usually made of ceramic or plastic, on which terminals for connection are located electrical wires, as well as spring contacts for the plug.

Despite simple design, there are many varieties of sockets, classified by:

  • installation method - overhead, built-in;
  • protection class;
  • method of fastening wires - screw, contact;
  • the presence or absence of a grounding connector.

Is not full list different types, however, other differences are not so significant when connecting the product to an electrical network, the diagram of which is as follows:

  • turn off the voltage by turning off the machine or unscrewing the plugs;
  • make sure there is no voltage with the indicator;
  • dismantle old socket;
  • separate the housing of the new socket from the working unit;
  • clean the contacts of electrical wires;
  • connect the stripped ends to the terminals;
  • fix the working unit in the socket box;
  • install the socket housing;
  • turn on the electricity;
  • check functionality.

This is what it looks like detailed instructions indicating how to properly connect the outlet. Next, we will consider in more detail each of the connection stages, as well as the differences caused by various types devices.


Preparatory stage

First and most important: be sure to turn off the power to the room. If we connect the socket at home, it is enough to turn off the machine or remove the plugs. It is advisable that the machine be located inside the apartment, and not on landing. Multi-story houses, with taken outside the apartments electric meters, there are situations when there is no machine inside the apartment. This makes the task more difficult because the power supply panel remains out of control. In this case, it is advisable for someone to remain on the landing at the panel while work is being done to connect the outlet. After turning off the power, take the indicator and make sure that the socket is really not energized.

The situation when the socket for connecting a device is completely ready: the socket is fixed in it, the electrical wires are removed, does not occur so often. Much more often there are cases in which it is necessary to replace the old outlet or install it in a new location. The latter option usually complicates the entire procedure and requires wiring and preparation of a socket in the wall. All this adds time, and for the built-in socket it adds dust and is a completely different story.

Let us dwell on the case when the socket, with the wiring connected to it, already exists. If it is occupied by an old outlet, it must be removed. A screwdriver is enough for this. Unscrew the fixing screw and remove the cover. All that remains is to remove the working unit. For the built-in model, there are two options for attaching it: using spacer legs or screws to the socket box. Depending on the type of installation, loosen the tabs or unscrew the screws. Carefully remove the working unit from the socket box. All that remains is to disconnect the wires from the terminals by loosening the clamping screws. In the case of a spring clamp (automatic terminal), the wire is removed after pressing the lock button. It is advisable to clean the dust box, if there is one. If not, you need to install it. However, even if you have an old socket box, you may want to replace it with a new one.


Equipping a socket for installing a socket

Installation of a socket box for concrete wall will delay the installation process. This is due to the method of fastening the product using alabaster or other construction mixture. It is necessary to prepare a solution, tightly and carefully cover all the cracks between the socket and the wall, and wait for the mixture to completely harden. The socket box for plasterboard walls has special presser feet; it attaches much faster.

Note: don't forget to thread electric wires into the holes of the socket box before its installation, they must be inside the box.

If electrical cable paired, then use a knife to carefully cut the braid in the center and separate the wires so that their ends can be brought to the terminals on different sides of the base of the socket. It is not recommended to pass both zero and phase lines together on one side of the base.

We strip the removed wires approximately 10 mm from the winding. If the cable is single-core, then sharp knife carefully plan off the insulating layer, trying not to damage the core. In most cases, it is aluminum; careless actions during stripping can lead to notches on the core, which subsequently becomes a point of local heating under load. For stranded wire You must first carefully make a cut in a circle, then remove the insulation. It is also advisable to tin the stripped ends of a multi-core cable. All that remains is to connect the electrical wires to the outlet terminals. However, options are possible here too.

Types of terminals

There are three types of socket terminals: screw and spring clamps, as well as a clamp. The most common design in old houses screw clamp when the wire is pressed against the contact plate by tightening the screw. In this case, the end is either simply wound in and pressed, or pre-rolled into a ring. The second option is preferable, as it increases the contact area and its density, which makes it possible to reduce heating under electrical load. Moreover, it is recommended to flatten the ring around its circumference. This can be done with a hammer on an anvil. This simple manipulation will further increase the contact area.

Note: low contact area limits the power of connected devices. High load in this case can lead to melting plug, as well as the socket body at the point of contact with the rod.

If the terminal is a “clamp” type, then the straight stripped end of the wire is simply threaded into the hole and tightened with a screw. In this case, the clamping is carried out only by the screw head, which has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, the low contact area. Secondly, if you apply excessive force, you can pinch aluminum core, deforming or even breaking it. If you do not tighten the screw enough, the contact will be unstable. All this will lead to strong heating of the contact point and sparking of the socket. Therefore, this type of terminals is best used for multi-core wiring. Another disadvantage is the limitation of the cross-section of the wires by the diameter of the terminal inlet.

The modern type of clamp is a spring clamp, or as it is also called an automatic clamp. Does not require a screw, ensures high-quality contact, thanks to high effort spring clamp. The wire is fixed using the spring terminal key.

Such models have long service life. This is related to the following. When heated under load, the contact part of the wire expands. Turning off the device leads to cooling of the contact and its narrowing. Over time, this daily process “looses” the contact, and the outlet begins to overheat or spark. The spring mechanism allows flexible self-regulation, constantly ensuring tight contact of the supply wire with the terminal.

People who have not dealt with electricity may wonder which terminal to connect the phase to and where to place the zero. It doesn't matter at all, absolutely. However, electricians have their own rules. Usually the phase is connected to the terminal located closer to the window. When it is difficult to determine such a side, then the phase wire is installed on the left terminal, if you are facing the wall. Let us remind you again that this has no practical significance.

Note: It is quite simple to distinguish phase from zero, but this is done with the electricity turned on. The indicator is alternately brought with a contact tip to each of the wires. Using your thumb, hold the contact on the indicator handle pressed. When the tip touches the phase wire, the light bulb of the product will begin to shine.


Attaching the base of the socket

Standard fastening of the working unit in the box is carried out using spacer legs. The connected wires are neatly laid in free space socket box, the base is installed exactly, parallel to the wall. Next, by alternately screwing in the clamping screws of the spacer legs, the working part is fixed.

Modern socket boxes have special holes for mounting the base of the socket. In this design, fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws.

However, both options are not reliable enough. The socket fixed in this way will sit well in the wall if you constantly remove the plug from it according to the rules: holding the body with one hand. However, there are situations when the second hand is occupied. In addition, children rarely follow the rules. Therefore, “everyday” removal of the plug with one hand will sooner or later lead to loosening of the fastening and play of the product.

You can spend ten minutes more to connect the outlet and forget about this problem. It is enough to attach it diagonally metal base, through its corner holes, with concrete or plastic anchors.

All that remains is to replace the cover by screwing it in place. We connect the electricity back and check the operation of the outlet.

Connecting the overhead model


Some older buildings have external wiring. In such cases, overhead sockets are installed on the walls. Sometimes this type of product is installed even with hidden wiring, since it does not require “arrangement” of a socket for the box. This ensures lower energy consumption and shortens the time for installing an outlet in a new location.

The principle of connecting the overhead model is the same as for the built-in one. The only exception is the dismantling of the old and installation of a new product. Outdoor socket consists of three parts: front panel, housing, working unit with terminals.

First, unscrew the screws securing front part, she is removed. Next, unscrew the fastening devices holding the old socket on the wall and remove it. Similarly, we analyze the new model. We install its body on the wall, attaching it with concrete or plastic anchors.

We install the electrical cable. At external wiring electrical wires can be covered in corrugation. Modern outdoor sockets are usually equipped with a plug that provides several various diameters cable. We cut the plug according to the required size and pass the electrical wires through it. When hidden wiring, the power cable is started with back side grounds.

We connect electrical wires to the assembly with terminals, as for the option with a built-in socket. We attach the working part of the product to its base. Install front panel, securing it with screws.

Do not forget to turn off the power to the room before starting work, and check the absence of electricity with an indicator.

Installing a grounded outlet

Modern buildings provide a grounding loop. Then, the power cable inserted into each living space consists of three cores: phase, working neutral and protective. There is a generally accepted color scheme conductor designations:

  • working zero – blue, blue-white;
  • grounding – yellow, green, yellow-green;
  • phase – other colors.

Knowing the location of the wires, there is nothing complicated in the process of how to connect an outlet with grounding. When the lead-out wires have the same color, an indicator will come to the rescue. With it you can accurately determine the phase. It is more difficult to distinguish zero from ground; even using a tester will not help so easily. You can measure the voltages between the phase and the remaining contacts one by one. Greater value will be between ground and phase. To confirm, the voltage between ground and the grounded device must be determined. The arrow of the device should remain at zero. When checking the zero - grounded device, there should be a small voltage.

You can start connecting a grounded outlet. As always, the first thing we do is turn off the electricity. We go through all the stages, as is the case for a regular built-in model. We connect the wires corresponding to phase and zero to current-carrying terminals. We connect the grounding conductor to a terminal with “antennae” located on the socket body.

Do not attempt to connect the ground if the building design does not provide for it. There are options for using the neutral core as a working and protective zeros. This is contrary to operating standards and poses a threat to all residents.

If the integrity of the neutral conductor is damaged, electrical equipment casings may appear under the phase. There is also a possibility that someone will change the positions of zero and phase on the distribution panel, as a result of which the phase will again end up on the housings of electrical devices.

Many people are faced with the need to connect electrical outlet. Some people just need an additional outlet at home or in the country, while others want to supply electricity to a barn or garage. One way or another, the question arises: how is this done? I hasten to assure you that it is very simple! In this short article we will tell you how to connect an outlet correctly with your own hands.

How to connect an outlet: theory

Important! Before you begin installing sockets or any other electrical installation work, turn off the switch on the panel or on the meter (unscrew the plug) and make sure that the wiring is not live.

To connect the outlet to the mains, you only need to connect two wires: zero and phase. If your wiring provides grounding, then do not neglect it - connecting three wires is not much more difficult than connecting two. Since the current is alternating, it doesn’t matter which wire you connect to which side of the block.

But reliable contact and the impossibility short circuit very important! Therefore, strip the wire exactly as far as it will fit into the terminal. If you have stripped off too much, cut off the excess with pliers.


If you stripped correctly, the bare wire should not stick out from the terminal.

Tighten the clamping screw properly, and then make sure that the wire is held well in the terminal. The connection must be mechanically reliable - the wire should not fall out of the terminal even with slight twitching.

Socket connection options.

We’ve sorted out the theory of connecting the socket: everything looks very simple, and this inspires confidence. But this confidence is immediately shattered by a simple practical question. Where should we connect the same two wires that we connected to the socket terminals? Where should I actually connect to the electrical network?

There are several options here. The best of all possible is an electrical panel with automatic switches.

If you don't have one or it's not practical to run a wire to it, then it's best to connect the outlet to a junction box, although it can be a bit tricky to figure out.

If the box is also not an option, then the only thing left is to connect to... another outlet! Basically it looks like this:

Some socket models have terminals designed so that two wires can easily be connected to them. This is done specifically to make it convenient to connect sockets with a cable.

Important! When connecting outlets in series to each other, remember: this is practically the same as plugging an extension cord into an outlet. Just because you now have two outlets instead of one, does not mean that you can now turn on two heaters at the same time! After all, the entire load will fall on the wire that was connected to the first socket. If it is not designed to carry a heavy load, it can lead to trouble.

DIY socket installation

So, let’s assume that you have connected the cable and brought it to the place where it will be installed new socket. What's next? Basically, there are two types of sockets: built-in and surface-mounted.

Surface sockets are easy to install. The block is screwed to the wall with two self-tapping screws.

The wires are connected to it, and the cover is screwed on top with one or two screws.

The situation is a little more complicated with a built-in socket. It is installed in special plastic socket boxes that are recessed into the wall.

The recesses for the socket boxes are drilled with a crown.

The socket is secured in the socket box using clamps.

All that remains is to screw on the plastic cover.

And the installation is finished. Before use, check the functionality of the outlet with a voltmeter or light bulb. Don't forget to also make sure that the socket is secured securely and will not fall out of the wall when you try to remove the plug from it.

Now you know how to connect an outlet in your home or country house. This work is not difficult, and it will not take much of your time and effort. You can always correctly connect the outlet yourself in any place convenient for you; for example, near computer desk or in the garage. In addition, you can save on electrician services.