When to plant bushes and trees in spring. When is it better to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring or autumn? Preparatory work in the garden

If you dream about flowering trees spring and a rich harvest in the fall (which, however, will have to wait a couple of years), then planning a beautiful orchard should start with studying the rules of choice and the nuances of planting fruit trees. Today Elena Mironova, leading designer of the Bastet studio, will talk about the most important, in her opinion, moments.

General director and leading designer of the Bastet studio. She studied interior design at the International School of Design. Has been involved in interior design for more than 10 years. Considers work to be a calling. Loves non-standard, complex tasks that require full dedication and concentration.

Should I plant in spring?

It's no secret that spring, like autumn, is a traditional time for planting work. However, gardeners have divided opinions about when it is best to plant fruit trees: some argue that optimal time plantings are in autumn, while others are in spring.

Of course, both options are possible if the most important condition is met: the seedlings must be in hibernation (as is known, the hibernation period in plants lasts from the moment the leaves fall until the buds open).

But still, for Central Russia with its cold winters it is preferable spring planting. It is also supported by the fact that young trees are much less likely to freeze, unlike those planted in the fall, and that in the spring, young seedlings are not such a tasty prey for rodents as during the first autumn frosts and snowfalls, and the fact that Trees planted in spring will have more time for growth and development for the whole warm season.

Of course, spring planting also has minuses: a strict upper time limit (if a seedling is planted too late, it will be problematic to get it out) and frequent, unlike autumn, watering. However, when choosing a planting time, there is one simple rule: the further north your site is, the more arguments in favor of spring planting and vice versa.

Should be planted exclusively in spring heat-loving plants , such as: cherries, plums, sweet cherries, apricots, cherry plums, and non-winter-hardy varieties of pears.

As practice shows, seedlings with closed root system(with a voluminous lump of earth): gardeners are less likely to damage the roots when planting, and such plants can be planted until mid-June. Seedlings with open root system, on the contrary, it is necessary to plant strictly before the buds begin to swell and without delaying too much - it’s better immediately after purchasing, so that the tree does not have time to dry out.

Planting fruit trees in spring: where to get seedlings?

This is the second, if not the first question that arises.

Alas, the choice of seedlings in large nurseries - both in variety and quality - is wider in the fall. In the spring, nurseries mostly sell off autumn leftovers, which means that the likelihood of choosing a strong and healthy tree, and of the desired variety, is significantly reduced. But there is no need to be discouraged. If the idea of planting a garden of fruit trees did not suddenly occur to you (you have been nurturing it for some time), then you can purchase planting material in the fall, or even arrange at the nursery for the staff to reserve trees of the required varieties for you in the spring.

But it’s better not to buy seedlings from large garden hypermarkets. Alas, in such places everything is focused on the number of sales, and often at the time of purchase, plants that seemed healthy (but in fact were simply overfed with fertilizers) begin to wither and die literally after a few days.

What to look for when purchasing?

If you still choose seedlings yourself, you should remember the following:

the seedling must be smooth and without flaws;
it should not show any signs of disease;
if the seedling is sold in a container, the roots should not grow through the drainage holes;
any damage to the roots is unacceptable. Dried roots also indicate that the plant is not viable;
earthen lump - again, not overdried! – must be the same volume as the crown of the tree;
leaves on the seedling should be completely absent.

How to plant?

When thinking about planting fruit trees, do not forget that planting plan should not contradict the general concept of landscape design of the site. It is not at all necessary to place all the trees in one place; you can picturesquely “scatter” them around the site. But to take into account all the nuances, it is better to consult with an experienced landscape designer.

And of course, the planting plan should be thought out in advance. Here it is important to keep in mind the composition of the soil, the lighting, and the distance between trees (at different types and fruit varieties, both the crown and the root system grow differently, which must be taken into account, otherwise mature tree may interfere with neighbors).

The landing algorithm itself is easy to find on the Internet or other sources. Let us dwell separately on some nuances spring plantings, which gardeners often forget about.

Never use fresh manure for fertilizer - it will burn the root system of the plant. The best option here is last year’s manure, fermented or compost. You can also use store-bought manure-based fertilizers.
When you cover the roots with soil, do not forget to straighten them, and also shake the seedling periodically so that voids do not form under the roots.
The roots should not remain on the surface, but you should not deepen the plant too much. The best option, when the root collar of the seedling (the place where the plant trunk meets the roots) is at ground level.
It is better to fix the support for the seedling until the plant is planted, so as not to damage the roots. Just drive it into the bottom of the hole, and then place the tree so that the support is on its northern side - this way it will also protect the young bark of the tree, which is not accustomed to the bright sun. Remember that the upper limit of the support should be below the beginning of the growth of the branches.
If the place chosen for planting the tree is damp, add a mound of soil before planting to prevent rotting of the roots.

The most important The thing to remember is that skill comes with experience. Of course, you are unlikely to get by completely without mistakes, especially if you are planting a garden for the first time. In this case, before starting work, it is better to consult with experienced gardener or a landscape designer, which is even preferable: a specialist will examine your idea from all sides and find weak spots in it that you most likely do not notice yourself.

In any case, even if you have no one to consult with, do not under any circumstances give up the dream of your own orchard. Draw a planting plan on paper, write down separately everything that may be important, carefully analyze your plan again and go for it! You will definitely succeed.

Planting fruit trees in spring video:

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Photos: agrus.ua, 3topolya.ru, homestead-honey.com, koffkindom.ru, newsstand.clemson.edu

In what month should you plant yours? personal plot bushes and trees depends on a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region, the characteristics of the variety, the weather, and the time of frost. Planting trees in the fall is preferable for southern cities and the middle zone, where winters are not very snowy and cold weather does not set in until the end of October. However, it is also possible to plant new crops on the site in the spring, which is most often practiced in the northern regions.

Decent choice of material. At the end of the fruiting phase (summer), you can evaluate not only the characteristics of the seedling, but also the volume and taste of the fruit in a particular variety.
If you don’t miss the deadlines, the plants have time to get stronger, take root and take root on the site before winter. New roots appear on them, which already grow actively with the onset of spring.
Rainfall is more frequent in autumn than in summer, which reduces the amount of watering required. Loose, breathable soil promotes good rooting of seedlings, which allows you to prepare the plants for winter.

Planting shrubs in the fall has its disadvantages:

Planting material is immature seedlings of a bush or tree. With the onset of early frosts, sudden changes in temperature, and too much rain, they may not take root and die in the cold, snowy winter.
A variety of pests, in the absence of food, can eat the bark of fruit trees and shrubs, which significantly reduces the chances of the plant taking root.

It is also necessary to take into account the amount of snow that falls in a certain region. If the crust is too large and heavy, thin stems and branches may break under its weight.

What fruit bushes and trees are planted in autumn?

In autumn you can plant the following fruit trees:

cherry;
peach;
almond;
apple trees;
cherries;
apricot;
plum.

Almost any fruit bushes, with the exception of sea buckthorn, are optimally planted in autumn period. Winter-hardy varieties are considered:

nut;
currant;
conifers;
some types of pear;
honeysuckle;
gooseberry;
chokeberry

After autumn planting, seedlings brought from the southern regions do not take root. They are unable to withstand sub-zero temperatures and large amounts of snow.

Timing of planting work

Autumn tree planting should be carried out at the following times:

in central cities - from the end of September to the end of October;
in warm parts of the country - with last decade September to mid-November.

Plants can be planted later, depending on the weather. In southern latitudes, winter generally begins in late November or early December. If until this period the temperature remains above zero, there is no heavy rain, snow or night frosts, you can begin planting work.

Tree planting technology

Planting fruit trees in the fall has certain nuances. It is important to choose the side of the site where there is more light and low (at least 1.5 m) groundwater. Some crops, for example, peaches, cherries, raspberries, without proper lighting will not give a good harvest.

Preparing the site and soil

Before choosing a location, consider the size of the future plant, namely the roots and crown of the bush/tree. It is also necessary to make indentations from the house, communications and outbuildings.

The distance is calculated based on the height of the tree:

tall ones, reaching 20–25 m, are placed at least 35 m from the building;
low-growing species– from 4.5 m.

Some crops in the neighborhood produce poor harvests and interfere with each other, depriving them of light. The proximity of an apple tree with cherry plum, peach, apricot with cherry, walnut with many fruit crops.

The preparation of the pits is as follows:

The size is determined based on the diameter of the roots. Stone fruits require a hole of at least 40 cm in diameter with a depth of up to 60 s; for pome trees, the hole should have a diameter of up to 80 cm and a similar depth.
It is not recommended to trim the roots. If the seedling does not fit into the hole, its diameter needs to be increased.
At the bottom of the pit they arrange drainage layer from crushed stone 20-40 mm, sand-gravel mixture or river pebbles.
The top layer is carefully removed; in the future, fertilizers of mineral or organic origin will be applied to it.

For two years after planting, the seedling will be completely nourished by the substances in the soil. landing pit. This is why initial feeding is so important.

How to prepare seedlings

When choosing planting material, pay attention to appearance plants:

the roots should be straightened and not bent upward;
there should be a lump of damp soil on the root system;
too many leaves on a seedling may indicate that there is not enough moisture in the tissues;
if unripe shoots are visible, it means that the seedling was dug up before the leaves fell;
There should be no visible cracks, rot or other damage on the bark.

A good seedling is smooth, with at least 5-6 shoots, without curved sections of the trunk and branches.

Disembarkation scheme

Technique for planting fruit tree seedlings in autumn:

Place the seedlings on the south side of the site. Most fruit crops are thermophilic and require good lighting. It is better to plant tall trees on the north side.
Prepare the seedling - remove dried parts of the root system with pruning shears, moisten with a wet piece of cloth or a spray bottle.
Place a wooden peg in the center of the dug hole and make a mound at the bottom.
Place the seedling in the center of this mound so that it is at least 5 cm from the peg. The graft should be located 3 cm above the ground level.
Fill the hole with soil, pressing down gently with your hands. Carry out mulching.

Pre-remove upper layer soil, place it in a large container. Here it is necessary to add fertilizer and fill the area around the seedling.

Subtleties of planting shrubs

It is better to plant shrubs on the site in the first ten days of September, so that they have time to take root before the winter cold and are not damaged by frost. The planting technique depends on whether you want to get free-standing bushes or hedge.

Preparing the site and soil

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the parameters of the root system. Lateral roots are able to receive nutrients and water from all layers of soil due to sideways growth.

Holes for bushes are prepared as follows:

To create a natural fence from bushes, you need to dig a long trench. At the lowest point of the dug hole, drain the water. If there is no slope of the site, an artificial slope is created by removing the top layer of soil.
Some shrubs, such as thuja, are suitable for creating a hedge. In this case, you can also make a trench, the depth of which will be 50-60 cm.
Medium-sized plants require trenches up to 50 cm deep.
The smallest shrubs can be used to create low borders. In this case, the trench will not exceed 35 cm in depth.

The width of the pit also varies depending on the size of the seedlings:

single-row planting – 50 cm;
medium shrubs – up to 40 cm;
small seedlings - the width of a shovel.

As in the case of planting trees, the top layer of soil about 12 cm thick is removed and placed in a separate container for fertilizing.

Processing of planting material

When seedlings are purchased in advance, they must be protected from drying out by wrapping the root system with a wet cloth and moving the plants to a cool place. If the seedling is purchased too late, it is better to dig it in until the next planting period. Preparatory stages:

the roots are trimmed until healthy tissue appears, dried roots are removed with pruning shears;
1.5 hours before transferring to the pits, the root system is watered abundantly;
the plant is transferred to a hole with an adhering lump of earth;
Some crops require shoots to be pruned before planting.

It is necessary to remove all dried shoots and roots, as well as broken ones, with signs of disease, and cracks. Use a sharp tool to avoid damaging healthy plant tissue.

Landing technology

Bush planting scheme:

It is necessary to drive a pointed wooden peg into the dug hole to a depth of about 20 cm. The height of the peg should be about 1-1.5 m. It is necessary for further tying up plants (standard varieties) and strengthening the area of soil.
Before planting, the roots of the seedlings should be on outdoors. To do this, remove the packaging or damp cloth and place the planting material near the dug holes.
Place at the bottom of the hole vegetable soil and form a cone-shaped mound at least half the depth. Consider the nature of the branching and the shape of the root system.
Place the seedling and straighten the roots into a cone with your hands. It should be strictly vertical and at a distance of 5 cm from the peg.
Please note that with subsequent watering the soil will settle. Therefore, the seedling should be 5 cm above the normal surface of the garden plot; the root collar should not be buried in the hole.
Fill the soil in layers, compact it with your feet to the outside of the hole. This will help avoid the appearance of voids and excessive shrinkage during watering.
Completely fill the entire root system and tamp it down carefully. Center the position of the seedling and tie it with a soft rope to a peg at a height of approximately 1.5 m of soil.

For non-standard forms of shrubs, you can use not a peg as a reinforcement, but a round hole, which is organized according to the diameter of the planting hole.

Immediately after planting shrubs and fruit trees, it is necessary to water the seedlings. Mulching is carried out with peat chips; the layer thickness should be about 2 cm. This will reduce moisture evaporation. In addition to peat, you can use a mixture of earth and sand, crushed tree bark and other natural materials.

As a top dressing, a ready-made or self-made growth stimulator is used. It is added to the water used for irrigation. This will promote rapid rooting of plants.

When working with shrubs or trees, consider the climatic conditions. The low temperatures of the Urals or Siberia are suitable for growing acclimatized or zoned varieties that can withstand early frosts and a snowy, windy winter. Early digging of seedlings, if carried out before the leaves fly off, can lead to bushes with immature shoots freezing and dying. Choose planting material without leaves, not overdried, without broken or dry roots.

Planting trees and shrubs is one of the most important operations in their cultivation. In many ways, it depends on it whether the seedlings will turn into beautiful plants or take on a pitiful appearance, or even die. Let's look at the reasons that determine the success of planting and transplantation.

Of primary importance are: choosing a planting site and healthy seedlings adapted for this climate zone; competent carrying out of planting work in optimal timing; proper aftercare.

Time to board

In spring you should hurry: When leaves begin to unfurl on the shoots of seedlings, their survival rate decreases sharply. Therefore, the spring planting boom is rapid and fleeting. The autumn planting period is more measured and thorough. It is not profitable for nurseries to leave seedlings in the fields, so in the fall the range of planting material is the richest and there is an opportunity to choose the best.

landscaping of territories

We are talking about seedlings with an open root system freed from the ground. In this state, in dry weather, they can remain in the open air for no more than 15 minutes, after which the most delicate root endings (the basis of the root system), which absorb water, begin to dry out and die. Therefore, when purchasing planting material with an open root system, you need to take care in advance to protect it from drying out and stock up on suitable containers.

Helpful advice

For small plants, you can use boxes (preferably plastic ones with small ventilation holes), for medium-sized plants, garbage bags measuring from 20 to 40 liters are good, for large seedlings you should purchase a double box. plastic film up to 1.5 m wide.

Upon arrival at the planting site, seedlings should be buried as quickly as possible.

To do this, you need to prepare a ditch with one vertical and the other inclined wall (at an angle of 30°), where the seedlings are laid, and their roots are sprinkled with earth.
The seedlings remain in the dig until planting; after they are removed, the roots cannot be left open for more than 15 minutes.
Buried seedlings can be stored for quite a long time without losing their viability.

It is better to plant shrubs in the fall, and trees in the spring. This rule is based on the fact that shrubs planted early autumn(during September), they have time to take root in a new place before the winter cold, but the trees do not have time and are damaged by frost in winter. Therefore, it is better to leave tree seedlings in storage until spring.

It is best to purchase and transport seedlings with an open root system in cool, cloudy or even rainy weather.

Selection of seats

First you need to assess the conditions in which the planted plants will develop:

sunny or shaded;
waterlogged or dry;
with rich clay or poor sandy soils.

This will allow you to determine the assortment of trees and shrubs, and having established the sizes of these areas, make a calculation required quantity planting material.

The most common mistake is to fit too tight. The reason for this is ignorance of what size the plant reaches in adulthood. An authoritative specialist in Europe, Dr. D.G. Hessayon recommends making the following calculations when designing seats:

Rice. 1. Calculation of the distance between tree planting sites

For most trees (except columnar trees) you need to add the heights of adult trees A and B and divide the resulting sum by two - this will be the optimal distance between the centers of the planting holes (Fig. 1).

Rice. 2. Calculation of the distance between shrub planting sites

For most shrubs you should add the height of adult bush A and adult bush B and divide the resulting sum by three (Fig. 2).

Trees:

prickly spruce (typical form) – up to 25 m (80 years);
English oak – up to 25 m (100 years);
sycamore maple (holly leaf) – up to 20 m (60 years);
Tatarian maple – up to 9 m (20 years);
riverine maple (Ginnala) – up to 6 m (15 years);
large-leaved linden – up to 25 m (80 years);
Siberian larch – up to 25 m (80 years);
white willow (silver) weeping form - up to 20 m (80 years);
Norway willow – up to 8 m (20 years);
five-stamen willow – up to 12 m (30 years);
willow brittle spherical shape - up to 10 m (30 years).

Shrubs:

common hazel – up to 3 m (10 years);
European euonymus – up to 2.5 m (10 years);
sea buckthorn – up to 5 m (10 years);
privet – up to 3 m (8 years);
mock orange - up to 3 m (10 years).
Potentilla (Kuril tea) – 0.4–0.9 m (5 years);
rhododendron – 2 m (5 years);
Japanese spirea – 0.6 m (5 years);
Spiraea Bumold – 0.15–1.5 m (5 years).

The wide range of heights of small shrubs is associated with the presence of a large number of decorative forms and specially bred varieties).

You can set the height of trees at any age you are interested in, for example, 10, 20 or 40 years, using regional growth tables used in forest management.

Preparation of planting holes

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the characteristics of the plant root systems. Nevertheless, even in trees such as English oak and Scots pine, whose skeletal roots go into the soil to a depth of 5–6 m, the bulk (up to 90%) of small suction roots are located in the upper 40-centimeter layer. Therefore, even when planting large trees with a clod, the depth of the planting hole rarely reaches 1 m, and most often it is 60–80 cm.

It is much more important for plants to have the opportunity to develop lateral roots, which, constantly branching, develop the upper, nutrition-rich and well-aerated layers of the soil horizon. These layers are home to a huge number of soil bacteria (up to 5 million per 1 cm3) and fungi, without whose vital activity plant roots cannot exist. Therefore, the width of the landing pit should be made as large as possible, within reasonable limits.

Under separately standing trees and bushes, and when planting in groups, separate holes are dug for each plant, and trenches are prepared to create hedges and borders.

Digging a hole:

1. A bayonet shovel is used to cut through the turf - the top layer of soil around the perimeter of the future hole, which should be at least 1 m for trees, and 60 cm for large shrubs.

2. The top fertile layer of soil is removed along with the turf and placed on one side of the hole.

3. The underlying soil horizon, which differs from the upper one in humus content (color) and mechanical composition, is dug up. In some cases it is lighter (sandy), and most often it is heavy – loamy. There will be much more soil from the underlying horizon, and it is piled on the other side of the pit.

4. The walls of the pit are made vertical, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 15–20 cm.

5. On soils underlain by heavy loams, it is necessary to install drainage systems that drain water that accumulates from precipitation and spring snow melting from the bottom of the pits.

Fig.3 Digging a hole

Trenches are dug in compliance with the same rules, only water is drained into the general drainage system should be done in the lowest place along its length, and in cases where there is no natural slope, it should be created by a slight increase in the depth of excavation.
For planting hedges Even from the largest shrubs or small conifers (for example, western thuja) or deciduous trees (for example, Ussuri pear), it is quite enough to dig a trench 60 cm deep.
For medium sized shrubs(brilliant cotoneaster, privet, wrinkled rose) the trench depth should be 40–50 cm.
For creating borders of small shrubs(Japanese spirea, S. birch-leaved, low-growing forms of S. Bumolda, shrubby cinquefoil and many others) it is enough to dig a trench 30–35 cm deep.

The width of the trench depends on the size of the plants being planted and the planting scheme:

For single-row planting of trees, it should reach 40–50 cm.
For medium-sized plants - from 30 to 40 cm.
For small shrubs - from 20 to 30 cm (i.e. the width of a shovel).
When laying two-row hedges, the width of the trench doubles.

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There are several ways to plant trees and shrubs, of which we will consider the two most different in their technology. This is a planting with a bare and closed root system.

Planting with an open root system

Pre-prepared holes should be filled one-third with soil mixture immediately after digging. The fertile layer of soil with turf folded on one side of the hole should be lightly crushed with a shovel and placed on the bottom.

On the other side of the pit, we have less fertile soil from deeper soil horizons that needs to be improved. If this soil is heavy loamy, then it is necessary to add the same amount of sand to it, if sandy - the same amount of loam (as loam it is best to use turf soil, or bottom silt of lake sediments, or any soil of heavy mechanical composition).

Then you should add 2-3 parts of organic humus (peat, leaf, grass, compost or lowland peat). High-quality humus is dark brown, almost black in color. All these components must be thoroughly mixed with the addition of dolomite flour or slaked lime and complete mineral fertilizer.

Earth mixture: 3 parts of organic humus, 1 part of loam, 1 part of sand, 0.5 parts of dolomite flour (or 0.2 parts of slaked lime) with a complete mineral fertilizer added to it, preferably complex ("Kemira" or "Aquarin" ). Fill the planting hole to approximately 1/3 of its depth. Leave the rest of the soil mixture on the surface until planting begins.

Before planting, you need to prepare a sufficient amount of water.

The seedlings removed from the digging are placed in the center of the hole in such a way that their roots, without bending or resting against the walls of the hole, diverge evenly in different directions. If the roots are too long, they are trimmed with pruning shears or chopped with an ax on a wooden block.

It is necessary to ensure that the root collar of the plants is located above the soil surface, for which the required amount of soil mixture is selected from the hole filled 1/3 of the way or added to it. In order to ensure the most even distribution of the roots at the desired level, a tubercle is arranged in the hole on which the roots are laid out (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Properly planted seedling

After installing the seedling, the soil mixture is filled into the hole to approximately 2/3 of its total depth, covering most root system of the plant. Then a large amount of water is poured in. Filling must be continued until the water level reaches 2/3 of the depth of the planting hole, after which the hole is finally filled with dry soil mixture.

All this time the seedling must be maintained in vertical position, slightly supporting and pulling it up. To ensure that when shrinking the root collar of the seedling does not end up below the soil surface level, the hole is filled 15–20 cm above this level.

The planting method described above practically guarantees the survival of plants, since the liquid formed in the area where the roots are located envelops their lobes, ensuring contact of the suction root hairs with soil aggregates.

With all other planting methods, including the most common dry planting followed by abundant watering, the efficiency of seedling establishment is much lower due to weaker contact of the root endings with the soil and the formation of air sacs in the area where the roots are located.

In addition, when pouring water directly into the holes, the formation of dirt around the planting site is eliminated, which cannot be avoided when watering from above.

Finally, a planting mound is formed around the annular roller, which will retain water in the root zone during watering.

It is also useful to mulch the surface of the mound with peat compost or other material in order to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil surface, causing disruption of its aeration, as well as to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Planting with a closed root system

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted almost throughout the year. Of course, in a snowy winter no one will plant small and medium-sized plants, but for large-sized trees winter planting with a frozen lump for a long time remained the only method widely used in Russian practice.

The technology for planting container seedlings is quite simple and is fundamentally not much different from the planting of seedlings with an open root system described in detail above. Therefore, taking it as a basis, we will consider the specific features of planting container plants.

Firstly, You should know that soil (soil mixture) is included in the list of quarantine materials prohibited for transportation across state borders, and therefore, for the official delivery of seedlings from abroad, they are placed in containers with peat or other material permitted for transportation that is completely unsuitable for further growth of these plants. Such seedlings need to be removed from containers as quickly as possible and planted on permanent place V open ground or containers with a normal soil mixture.

IN last years Organizations involved in the supply of seedlings from abroad have established a process for re-boring planting material at their bases, and, as a rule, plants with a good soil mixture in containers go on sale.

However, there are cases of direct deliveries.

Therefore, before purchasing a plant in a container, you should make sure that the mixture is of high quality in case you have to keep it in it for 2-3 weeks before planting it in a permanent place.

Immediately before planting, the seedling must be carefully removed from the container. If the roots come out of the coma and curl along the walls of the container, they must be cut with repeated vertical movements of a sharpened knife along the entire circumference of the coma or cut several shallow slits in the coma triangular shape along its lateral surface.

Further operations are not much different from planting seedlings with an open root system:

first, the soil mixture is poured into the planting hole so that the surface of the ball placed on it protrudes 5–10 cm above the soil level;
then water is poured into the hole and the dry soil mixture is backfilled and tamped into the gap between the lump and the edge of the planting hole along its entire perimeter.

In conclusion, we can recommend for better survival of seedlings planted using the two methods described above: use root formation stimulants, the most famous of which is Kornevin. Working solutions are prepared at the rate of 0.0001% concentration. Solutions of higher concentrations can lead to burns of root tissues and their death.

Consolidation

In places of natural growth, trees are supported by roots that tightly cover a large volume of soil space. The seedlings lack such support, so after planting they need to be secured.

Planted shrubs usually stay in the soil quite well, since their shoot system has a low center of gravity. The center of gravity of trees is much higher, so young trees need to be secured after planting.

Plantings are strengthened using supports:

for seedlings with an open root system, one support is sufficient, which is driven into the bottom of the hole 10–15 cm from its center before planting.
seedlings planted in a lump are best strengthened with a pyramid of three supports.
for large seedlings, the only fastening system that does not interfere with the proper development of the tree is a safety

Planting large trees

It should be noted right away that planting and replanting large mature trees is a labor-intensive process. It requires large material costs. However, it is very popular due to the rapid achievement of the decorative effect of landscaped areas.

Large trees with a height of 2.5 to 4.5 m can be planted or transplanted on your own using small-scale mechanization.
Planting trees above 4.5 m requires special machinery and equipment, so it is better to contact companies that specialize in this type of activity.

As mentioned above, winter transplant big trees with a frozen lump gives positive results in most cases. However, it should be carried out in stable frosts of at least 10–15 o C.

Spring replanting (before leaves bloom) most favorable for large trees, but its duration is very short. Soil frozen in winter makes it difficult to dig up plants intended for replanting. When it thaws, it becomes necessary to pack the lump in a special container to give it strength.

Period autumn transplant lasts quite a long time, from the moment the leaves fall until low temperatures set in. This allows you to carry out work in large volumes. In case of persistent moderate frosts in the fall, it is possible to replant trees with freezing of the coma. At the same time, there is no need to pack the lump in a special container, which significantly reduces the cost of work. In autumn, you need to take into account that planted trees need insulation of the root system for the winter.

It is important to know

All species that shed their leaves in late autumn (pyramidal poplar, white acacia, black alder, winter forms of oak) do not withstand autumn replanting well, and it is better to plant them in the spring.

Summer transfer trees in leafy state are the most risky. It requires protecting trees from high temperatures and direct sunlight.

The following tree species tolerate replanting satisfactorily in adulthood:

deciduous: linden, poplar, maple, horse chestnut, ash, oak (preferably red), apple, pear, plum, rowan, and in the south - mulberry;
conifers: spruce (preferably prickly), fir, thuja, juniper.

Birch, pine and elm trees do not tolerate transplantation well in adulthood.

Caring for transplanted large trees should be especially careful and continue for two to three years after planting.

Selection of planting material

In the nurseries of Western and Central Europe, the cultivation of seedlings whose root systems are enclosed in containers is well established. Technological process, starting from cuttings or sowing seeds and ending with the receipt of finished products that meet the standards, has been worked out in detail and brought to perfection.

Our nurseries, located in colder climates, were unable to compete with them due to the enormous costs of covering container plants in winter time. Due to this Russian manufacturers were forced to switch to purchasing cheaper products abroad for the purpose of selling or growing them. They invest the profit received from this into something suitable for our climatic conditions growing plants in open ground.

Planting fruit trees is usually an integral part of the design of the area around country house even for people far from gardening. As for vegetable gardens, it’s rare that a plot of land can do without an apple or cherry tree. Some people invite specialists to plant a garden, but if you wish, you can do this on your own.

Optimal timing

Theoretically, planting seedlings is possible at any time summer season. If everything is done correctly, the tree will take root and begin to grow. But in order to reduce the risk of death, in order to avoid long-term illness, it is advisable to adhere to the generally accepted planting dates: early spring and autumn.

The basic principle is to carry out all manipulations during the period of no active growing season, when the seedling is still in hibernation or preparing for it. In spring, planting is done before the buds swell (when the “green cone” has not yet appeared). In autumn, you should wait until the leaves fall.

Spring planting is recommended for the northern regions, since short autumn root system young tree does not have time to “grab” the soil, which often causes freezing. , and peaches take root better when planted in spring (before mid-April), regardless of geographic location.

In the southern arid regions, it is preferable to plant fruit trees in the fall (October, November). The long rainy off-season gives them the opportunity to take root well, and the seedlings survive the winter safely.

Principles for placing seedlings on the site

When choosing seedlings of fruit trees, you should have a good idea of their placement scheme. You can plant an entire collection in a limited area, but after 3-5 years the garden will be in disarray - the trees will begin to interfere with each other, and diseases will actively spread. Since it is the lateral branches that actively bear fruit, it is necessary to maintain the optimal distance between the seedlings. Usually it is equal to the height of a mature tree.

When planting trees within the framework of a land plot in gardening, you should also take into account the regulated legislative norms(SNiP 30-02-97, SNiP 30-102-99) distance from the neighbor’s fence: for tall people (more than 15 m) - 4 m, for medium-sized people (this group includes the majority fruit species) – 2 m. If underground communications (power cable, water supply) are laid on the site, then trees should be planted 2 m from them, since developing roots can cause damage to them.

Proper planning of the future garden will not only greatly simplify its care, but will also help to avoid future problems with neighbors due to shading of their area and the spread of roots.

Selection of seedlings

Fruit tree seedlings can be purchased in specialized departments of stores or nurseries. It is advisable to decide in advance not only on the varieties of future inhabitants of the garden, but also on their varieties. You need to choose those that grow well and bear fruit in a given region - zoned ones. A good nursery will offer high-quality planting material, but you should still familiarize yourself with the basic criteria for selecting seedlings before purchasing.

For those who intend to seriously garden on their own, it is useful to know some of the terms that sellers often use when describing varieties of fruit trees.

The rootstock is the roots and lower part of the trunk of the seedling.
Scion – cuttings and buds grafted onto the trunk of another tree (rootstock).
Cambium – thin layer active cells of the trunk, located between the subcortex (bast) and the wood, is responsible for the survival of the scion.
The root collar is not the grafting site (it is 8-10 cm higher), but the area where the root part of the seedling passes into the trunk. If the fruit tree was rooted by cuttings, then it does not have a graft.

Knowing what the above concepts mean, it is easier to communicate with the seller and navigate the assortment of planting material.

It is worth remembering the signs by which you should choose seedlings.

The optimal age is 1.5-2 years. It is better to take one with a crown of 2-3 branches.
The height of the seedling is 120-140 cm, the trunk diameter is no more than 12-15 mm.
Root system The rootstock should be well developed (4 large branches), fibrous (there is no central chopped root pointing down), not overdried, without obvious breaks or other damage. The length of the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. There should be no branches on the rootstock.
The scion is mature and elastic.
The trunk and branches of a healthy seedling are smooth, without potholes, sagging, spots or traces of pests.

Particular attention is paid to the rootstock, since the appearance of the crown, the drought resistance of the tree, and the timing of the onset of fruiting depend on its type. Seed rootstocks are more powerful and resistant to drought. Dwarf ones begin to bear fruit faster, and tall ones yield more, although it appears 3-4 years later.

Pit preparation

The fruit tree absorbs nutrients at a depth of 10 to 80 cm, so soil preparation for the seedling is required in this range. Not all gardening can boast fertile soil, you usually have to put in extra effort when digging a hole:

loosen the walls, if the soil is clayey and dense, arrange drainage from crushed stone or expanded clay;
compact the soil and create conditions for moisture retention at the bottom of a hole dug on sandstones (clay or silt is used for this);
if the groundwater is high, it will be necessary to build a hill approximately 1.5 m high;
apply fertilizers.

The hole for seedlings of pome fruit trees should be about 1 m wide and 60-70 cm deep. For stone fruits, the width is from 0.8 to 1.2 m, and the depth is from 50 to 60 cm.

Pit parameters depending on the type of rootstock for the most popular inhabitants of gardens - apple trees (diameter x depth, cm):

for vigorous growth - 100-125 x 60;
for semi-dwarf – 100 x 50;
for dwarf (paradise) - 90 x 40.

When digging holes for fruit trees, it should be taken into account that the top layer of soil is fertile; it is set aside and subsequently mixed with compost or rotted manure (15-20 kg). If the soil is clayey, then add 5-10 kg of sand.

Additional fertilizers are applied to the pit depending on the timing of planting. If the garden is started in the spring, then mineral supplements are appropriate. It is better to use balanced complexes developed specifically for fruit trees (Fructus). Application proportions: 30 g per 1 m2. In June, feeding the seedlings is repeated. At autumn planting You can add potassium and phosphorus.

When the hole is ready, the prepared mixture is poured onto the bottom in a mound, and an additional layer of black soil without fertilizers is placed on it. The top of the embankment should almost reach the edge of the hole. This is the base on which the root system of the seedling will be located. If there is no mound, then water accumulating at the bottom of the pit can lead to rotting of the roots.

Then the soil must be given time to shrink. For spring planting of fruit trees, pits are usually prepared in the fall. For autumn it is enough if the pit is left for 2-3 weeks.

For fixation, a stake is driven into the hole at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the location of the seedling and protruding approximately 40 cm above the surface. Gardeners usually know from which side of their plot the wind blows. strong winds, the support must be installed exactly there. It’s good if there are 2 or 3 pegs - this way the tree is guaranteed to maintain its “posture”. Many people drive a support directly into the center of the hole, tying the seedling to it in a figure-of-eight loop.

Preparation of seedlings

When inspecting planting material, it is necessary to cut off all ineffective roots (black, dried, soaked). To improve the survival rate of a seedling, it is advisable to immerse its root system in a solution of mullein and humus a day before planting. This procedure will revive and activate suction functions.

If a seedling is purchased in a container, then its survival rate is much better, since the tree does not waste energy restoring the root system. Such material is more expensive, but it can be planted at any time of the season without the risk of death.

If there is growth in the area of the rootstock, it is carefully cut off near the trunk. In the future, it should not be allowed to appear and develop. All unnecessary branches of the crown are also removed (it is optimal to leave 3 main ones). After drying, the wounds are covered with garden varnish.

Landing technique

The root system of the seedling is carefully placed on the sides of the mound at the bottom of the hole. Then the soil is gradually backfilled, which is periodically compacted along the edges to minimize shrinkage of the tree.

Basic landing rules:

the root collar should be at soil level;
the grafting site (stump on the side of the trunk) rises 5 cm above the ground surface;
Usually the graft is oriented to the north, the rootstock stump is oriented to the south.

The level of the soil surface can be easily determined by placing the handle of a shovel across the hole.

After fixing, a small border of soil is made around the seedling to prevent water from spreading when watering. About 2-3 buckets are used for post-planting watering, but if the soil is clayey, then one is enough. The soil is shed gradually until it stops absorbing moisture. Then the trunk circle of the young tree is mulched. Usually 5-7 cm of peat or humus is poured. Important point: the area within a radius of 3-5 cm from the trunk of the seedling is not covered with mulch.

Hill landing

If groundwater on the site are located close to the surface, then it is better to plant fruit trees not in a hole, but on a hill. In this case, the sequence of actions is as follows.

A stake about 1.5 m long and 5-6 cm in diameter is driven into the center of the place chosen for planting.
Around the stake, within a radius corresponding to the width of the hole for a certain type of fruit tree, the soil is dug up to a depth of about 20 cm.
Compost or manure spread is distributed over the dug area at the rate of 8 kg per 1 m2.
The seedling is placed next to the stake and carefully attached to it with a figure of eight. The roots are straightened and densely covered with a layer of nutritious soil mixture. It turns out to be a small mound, which is covered with turf.

As the tree grows, it is necessary to periodically add soil, increasing the tree trunk circle.

Protection and care

The first thing a young tree needs soon after planting is position correction (if necessary) and watering. The latter is especially true if the season is dry and the soil is sandy. The root system should not experience moisture deficiency.

If planting was done in the spring, then it is enough to whiten the stem to protect it from burns and pests.

And for the winter, seedlings need additional protection:

the tree is tied special material, while the side branches are carefully attracted to the main ones;
the trunk is covered with earth to a depth of 30-40 cm (in the spring the mound is raked);
on bottom part A layer of mesh or a piece of roofing material is wrapped around the seedling if hares or rodents hunt on the site in winter.

In the spring, all covers are removed, the whitewash is renewed, antifungal agents are sprayed, and mineral fertilizers to stimulate growth.

If the planting technique is followed, then one seedling can produce a productive fruit tree that will actively grow and develop year after year with proper care. And in cases where planting material is purchased in large quantities and is planted without planning, there will subsequently be fewer and fewer fruits due to the competition of trees for sunlight and nutrition. Also, various kinds of diseases that arise due to poor ventilation and lack of light will become constant companions of the garden.

Working with fruit trees is quite exciting and so addicting to many gardeners that they independently graft the varieties they like onto existing species. In this way, you can get several varieties of apples or plums on one rootstock, significantly saving land area and money for seedlings.

The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengerot in an article with the expressive title “Should I plant trees in autumn or spring?” put forward interesting arguments on this topic.

Wise thought

“Autumn planting works out better the earlier it can be done.”

A complicated matter

“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preference is for spring planting rather than autumn planting.

Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when the shoots that have grown during the summer have become completely strong and mature, i.e., from September to October (the further south you go, the earlier you can start transplantation; for example, in the Saratov province you can start already at the end of August); in the spring, now, when the ground has thawed, until the buds begin to bloom.”

The information is correct, but it is still unclear: autumn or spring? However, further the author talks about his experience “in the Baltic region and other northern provinces.”

Autumn wins

“Having been involved in gardening and planting trees for more than 25 years... I adhered to the following: I always gave preference to autumn planting, with the exception of those cases when I had to plant on extremely clayey, wet soil. If planting is done in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, the sap flow in it has not yet completely stopped, then before the onset of frost it will have time to produce young roots, as well as some root cuts swim. Such a tree will overwinter well and begin to grow quickly next spring. The later the transplant is carried out, the less time the tree has time to take root and is more slowly accepted in the spring, and sometimes in winter from severe frosts some die. Leaves of trees planted in autumn must be trimmed so that they do not evaporate reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients it stops until new roots appear.

True, in very cold areas and on damp, cold soils, they should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on moist soil, spring planting has its downsides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then the summer heat soon dries out the soil, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly received.”

Confirmation from the Volga region

“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely die in the first winter.

I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the fall of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... For the final decision controversial issue I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I covered them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and handed them over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees died, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pear trees died.”

And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared to his gaze: “About 50% of the apple trees and the same number of pears looked healthy, about 10% of the apple trees and 50% of the pears died, and the remaining apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.”

Based on materials from the magazine “Progressive Gardening and Horticulture”

* the article refers only to seedlings with an open root system

Personal experience

Prepare your sleigh in summer

Frost on bare ground is the nightmare of many summer residents. Especially for those who can only visit their garden on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!

Since during my time gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting the frost without snow with useless moaning and throwing, then in Lately I made it a rule to prepare for a possible cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.

Firstly, it is better to prepare plants that will have to be covered for the winter early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend it down and lightly sprinkle it with earth large leaf hydrangeas, arrange climbing and shrub roses before their branches become brittle from the cold. It wouldn’t hurt to throw on non-woven material: in the absence of snow, it certainly won’t protect you from frost, but it will help “soften the blow” when the temperature drops sharply.

Secondly, be sure to mulch tree trunk circles heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of “sour” things, for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, pine litter, and sawdust. For others - compost, grass clippings, fallen leaves. This can be done in September or October, without rushing and without making a rush on the eve of severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In the event of a sudden cold snap, the wet soil literally “explodes,” which often leads to damage to the root system. A thick layer of mulch will protect you from this disaster.

Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak ones are best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that you have on hand. I usually take half an hour, rake leaves from under nearby trees and collect them in large garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as insulation instead of snow.

S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region.