Vegetable garden: when to plant winter garlic. Planting garlic in the fall before winter - when to plant? Do I need to cook garlic and how to do it?

Garlic — perennial plant onion family. This aromatic root vegetable makes a great addition to many dishes. It helps during illness and makes a wonderful sauce. How to plant garlic so that it is always at hand? We will discuss this and much more below in the article.

The main thing in the article

When is the right time to plant garlic before winter?

Before winter, garlic must be planted in the fall. The soil is cleared of the crop planted earlier, but no later than the end of July, and root crops are planted in its place. Ideally, it should be planted 35-45 days before frost.
Just at this time, the fruit manages to take root in the soil, growing 10-12 cm into the ground. But the garlic has not yet had time to sprout outside, so it will not disappear during the winter. The most favorable time for landing from September 20 to mid-October. But there is one caveat: if you decide to grow garlic from bulbs, then you need to sow it in April, and from September to October - with cloves.

Focusing on moon calendar landings, best time in 2017 it is considered September 7, 8, 9, 23 and 24, and in November - 1st, 2nd, 16th, 17th, 29th and 30th.

In order for garlic to sprout, it must be planted on time. If planting rules are not followed, it may freeze if planted too late. And if you plant garlic too early, it may rot. Therefore, it is necessary to comply with deadlines that have been verified by many years of experience.

What garlic to plant in the fall: types and varieties of planting material

Garlic is divided into two types - winter and spring, and the most common varieties are:

Lyubasha;
Sofievsky;
Dobrynya;
Dubrovsky;
Antonnik;
Dutch Messidor;
Gulliver;
Alcor et al.

Actually in autumn period You can plant garlic of any type and variety. The most important thing is to be sure that the crop of this variety has already produced good fruit on the given soil in which you are going to sow it.

Winter garlic is denser and harder, with an average of 8 to 12 cloves, and is more resistant to frost. Only from the winter species do arrows with bulbs sprout.
Spring garlic is softer, the cloves are located in a chaotic position and there are on average from 8 to 20. Spring garlic is less resistant to cold weather.
Planting depends on the region and climate. Therefore, you should take this important factor into account and plant root crops according to your place of residence.

Selecting and preparing a place for planting garlic

Root vegetables need sufficient quantity sun rays, so it needs to be planted where there is a lot of sun. The soil should be non-acidic, sandy loam and manured before planting for the previous crop.

The place where you want to plant garlic must be dry so that when the snow melts, water does not flood the root crops. There should also be shade to prevent the snow from melting too quickly.
You should know that garlic must be planted after annual vegetables, such as cabbage, pumpkin, cucumbers, peppers or zucchini.

The ideal place will be where:

the snow lies long enough;
an ice curtain forms on the soil;
people do not trample and animals do not run;
the sun hits well;
there is a fence.

If you focus on these parameters, then ideal place will north side by the fence. This arrangement will allow the garlic to remain always under the sun, but also under the snow. The fence will prevent the snow cover from blowing out, and the north side will melt later than everyone else.

How to plant garlic correctly in the fall: step-by-step instructions

Before planting, it is necessary to prepare not only the soil, but also the garlic itself:

Choose good, large cloves with the shell intact.
Some gardeners harden off fruits to prevent them from freezing in winter. To do this, they put the garlic in a cold place for 1-2 months. The average temperature should be around -5°C.
You also need to treat the seeds special solution, which during the growth process will protect the fruits from insects and other pests.
After processing, the root vegetables must be thoroughly dried.

Preparation land plot for disembarkation:

Prepare the site for planting by fertilizing and removing the crops that were planted on the site in advance.

Make furrows 15 to 20 cm deep and spaced 20 to 25 cm apart.

Sprinkle grain sand at the bottom of the strips in a layer of no more than 3 cm, this will protect the root crops from rotting.

Insert the cloves into the soil. It is important to know that the distance between large teeth should be no less than 12 cm and no more than 15 cm, and between small teeth should be no less than 8 cm and no more than 10 cm.

After planting, it is necessary to mulch the soil to at least 2 cm.

If the winter promises to be not too snowy, then it is necessary to cover the crops with roofing felt or polyethylene. And if the winter is snowy, then lightweight materials can serve as mulch.

Why didn’t the garlic planted before winter come up?

Reasons for crop failure:

Frozen;
Didn't have time to get up;
Unsuitable variety for climate;
Non-compliance with landing rules;
Incorrect time for landing;
Insufficient planting depth.

If the garlic does not sprout, dig it up and determine the reason. Replace the frozen root crop with a new one and plant it. If you planted it not deep enough, the garlic will sprout later.
There is also a chance that the variety you chose did not take root. In this situation, it is necessary to choose varieties only those that have already produced fruit more than once. This applies to those summer residents who like to order seeds from other areas.
The rules of planting cannot be neglected, as this is a fairly long process, verified with a lot of work and experience. Therefore, in this situation you should not rely on your intuition.
The time for planting plays an important role, since the harvest depends on it. A root crop planted too early will not be able to sprout in cold weather and will rot, and late garlic will take longer to sprout.

How to care for winter garlic?

Caring for winter garlic is quite simple, since the main thing is to ensure proper planting.

How will the snow melt from the area where it is planted? winter garlic, it is necessary to sprinkle nitrogen-based fertilizer. This will awaken the root crops from hibernation and activate their growth.
After the soil dries, the soil must be weeded and loosened. By this time, shoots will be visible, and clearing away unnecessary grass will provide oxygen to the stronger roots, which will make them even healthier.
In dry spring, garlic should be watered at least once every two weeks, as garlic does not need too much water. wet soil. Dry tips are the first sign that the root crop needs water.
In the last days of the first summer month, the first arrows of garlic appear; they need to be removed. But if you want to update the variety, you can leave a few to grow bulbs. They are usually sown in the fall, pushing them into the ground 3 cm deep.

If you do not remove the arrow, the bulb will be small. To remove, wrap your fingers around the arrow and pull sharply, holding the main stem. By removing the arrow, you will notice the death of the upper stem, as nutrients will go to the lower head.

When the top part of the garlic is dying, it can be fed with microfertilizer, which is designed specifically to increase the growth of the heads of the onion family.
The soil must always be loose so that the crop is healthy, large and grows well.
When the leaves turn yellow and begin to dry, dig up the roots and pull out the finished crop.

How to water garlic in the spring, planted before winter?

Garlic is an unpretentious plant, so it does not require careful care. But in order not to ruin your work, you must adhere to some rules regarding the water system.

Garlic does not like a humid environment, so in the spring it can be watered once every 2 weeks, but provided that the weather is quite favorable with the presence of natural precipitation.
If the spring turned out to be hot, then the irrigation system must be increased to 3 times every 2 weeks.
And if spring season accompany frequent rains, then there is no need to water the garlic, as this may aggravate the situation.

Is it possible to replant garlic planted before winter?

The plant of the onion family is completely unpretentious, so replanting in the spring from April to the end of May is permissible. The main thing is not to replant it in the summer, as it may not have time to germinate.

Prepare the beds according to those you made for the garlic earlier.
Dig up the garlic fruit very carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Place them in a standing position in the prepared recesses and pour plenty of water.
Then bury it in the ground, pressing the roots well into the soil.

In order for the plant to take root, it is necessary to constantly maintain a moist environment.

How to feed garlic planted in autumn in spring?

The soil often needs good fertilizer, since the fate of the fruit depends on it.

With the arrival of spring, garlic begins to sprout and produce the first leaves, when their number reaches 3-4 pieces, it is necessary to make the first fertilizing of the future harvest. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of urea and the same amount of complex mineral fertilizer in 10 liters of water. The product consumption should be 2-3 liters per 1 m².
After 2-3 weeks, another feeding is required, which consists of diluting 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water. Consumption should be 3-4 liters per 1 m².
At the end of June, it is also necessary to feed the planted root crops. Dilute 2 tablespoons of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and pour over the garlic, using 4-5 liters per 1 m².

Processing garlic in spring planted in autumn

After winter sleep, the plant needs to be awakened, for this it needs to be treated.

Before the soil dries completely, you must remove upper layer soil. This will allow the garlic to be saturated with oxygen.
After this, you need to loosen the soil, but you shouldn’t go too deep, just loosen it up to 4 cm in depth.
Then use mulch (material to cover the soil) of sawdust, dry grass, humus or peat.

Why does garlic planted before winter turn yellow?

In fact, there is no clear answer to this question. And there can be quite a lot of options for yellowing leaves. Let's look at the most common of them:

Early or late disembarkation;
Excessive soil moisture;
Painful garlic;
Soil too dry;
Lack of minerals;
Harmful insects and diseases, which include:

When to harvest garlic planted in the fall?

It is necessary to collect the plant when all the lower leaves turn massively yellow. This usually occurs in late July and early August. Garlic harvest should be done in sunny weather.
Place the dug up plants in the sun to dry completely, on average this takes from 3 to 5 days.
Then the roots of the dried fruits are trimmed and the stems are shortened to about 7-10 cm.

If you delay harvesting garlic, it will become overripe and its cloves will fall apart.

How to plant winter garlic: video

Planting a plant is not so bad; you need to grow it successfully. And this is a lot of work that requires experience, willpower, patience and the ability to care. Most gardeners know this and that’s why they have a good harvest. They share their observations, experiences and tricks. And we, in turn, describe this for you. Have a good harvest, dear readers.

Those who claim that the gardening season begins in February-March are greatly mistaken. To provide yourself high yield, you need to take care of it in the fall. So, in the fall they prepare the beds for the next year, apply fertilizers, regulate the acidity of the soil, and also engage in pre-winter sowing and planting of winter crops.

In this article we will talk about how to plant winter crops in the fall.

Preparing garlic for planting in the fall

The first step is to sort out planting material. All damaged, dried out, moldy or rotten teeth are removed.

Select teeth with a reserve - in the future you will still reject unsuitable ones. After the largest and healthiest cloves have been selected, place them in a bowl or pan with a lid and place them on the veranda or balcony for a week and a half. During this time, the teeth will sprout small roots. After this period, the planting material is sorted again, discarding teeth with previously undetected defects.

It is also advisable to disinfect the teeth by soaking them before planting for 30-50 minutes in a solution of any systemic fungicide or potassium permanganate (light pink solution). The teeth left floating on the surface of the solution are most likely damaged or overdried, which means they are not suitable for planting.

After disinfection, the teeth are dried a little, but it is not necessary to wait until completely dry.

The bed for garlic should be selected and prepared in the summer. Ideally, it should be released in June-July. Then they add manure or compost and dig up the future garlic bed. Applying manure or any other organic fertilizer directly at the time of planting garlic increases the risk of disease and pest infestation.

Remember that garlic does not like acidic and heavy soils. The garden bed should not be flooded in the spring, otherwise the garlic will simply “get wet” and rot.

A week before planting garlic, it is advisable to add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, a couple of days - a little wood ash(to prevent soil acidification from mineral fertilizers).

How to plant garlic correctly in the fall

Planting garlic in the fall before winter is done when the soil temperature drops to +10-12 ° C at a depth of 5 cm. However, these terms are quite arbitrary, since more late boarding is often no less successful. But there is no need to rush and plant garlic early - the appearance of green garlic shoots sure sign the fact that the bed will not survive without additional shelter winter frosts and will die. So it’s better not to rush and wait to plant at least until stable cold weather sets in. However, you shouldn’t delay planting either - the garlic cloves should have time to take root before severe frosts, otherwise good harvest There's no point in waiting next year.

The distance between plants in a row should be 10-13cm, row spacing should be at least 15-20cm wide. If we summarize all the requirements, the optimal time for planting garlic in the middle zone is mid-October. In the northern regions one or two weeks earlier, and in the southern regions a couple of weeks later.

The right choice is no less important than pre-sowing preparation and suitable planting dates.

To avoid the development of diseases and the proliferation of pests, you should not grow garlic in the same place for several years in a row. The best predecessors for it are beets and carrots, cabbage, parsnips, celery, pumpkin, and legumes. It is not advisable to plant garlic after potatoes, onions, tomatoes or peppers.

Planting garlic bulbs in the fall is not fundamentally different from planting cloves. The only difference is due to small size The bulbs should not be buried very deeply. But do not forget that it is not full-fledged heads that grow from bulbs, but one-toothed garlic (sets) - improved seed material, which is small bulbs. However, there is no need to plant bulbs in the fall - they grow well when planted in spring. Main advantage winter sowing bulbochek - saving time in the spring.

Now you can not only independently determine when to plant garlic in the fall, but also choose the right place for it and prepare the bed in such a way as to ensure a good wintering and a high harvest.

As you can see, the secrets of planting garlic in the fall are not so complicated. It is enough to follow the basic rules in order to next year get excellent harvest fragrant winter garlic.

A close relative of onions is garlic. Of course, it has peculiarities of planting, care, storage and preparation for planting, just like any other plant. vegetable crop. But there is nothing difficult about growing garlic. We'll figure out. There are bolting and non-bolting, winter and spring varieties of garlic - it depends on biological features plants. Non-shooting garlic reproduces only by cloves, while shooting garlic also reproduces by aerial bulbs (bulbs).

Shooting varieties are winter varieties. They give a good harvest when planted before winter. Among the non-shooting varieties there are winter and spring varieties. Planting spring garlic in the fall leads to poor rooting of cloves, thinning of crops, and crop shortages. However, there are varieties that grow well with autumn and spring planting.

The main thing when growing winter garlic is to create conditions for a good overwintering. This is ensured the right choice places for planting, timing of sowing, depth of seed placement. The crop should be placed on fertile lands with flat surface, clean of weeds, not flooded by autumn or melt waters.

The best predecessors are crops that clear the field early, under which they bring organic fertilizers: cucumbers, zucchini, early cabbage, lettuce, legumes. Garlic is a good predecessor for all crops except onions, since they are affected by the same pests and diseases.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic

The soil in the garden bed is cultivated in advance so that it settles somewhat. Directly under plowing or digging, you can add humus (40-60 t/ha) and mineral fertilizers. Norm mineral fertilizers per 1 hectare: 30-40 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride. Saltpeter is not applied in the fall, only in the spring.

Preparation of planting material - garlic cloves, bulbs

To plant winter or spring garlic, three types of planting material are used:

teeth,
aerial bulbs (bulbs);
sets (one-toothed plants grown from aerial bulbs).

Only garlic heads with healthy cloves are selected. All diseased, shriveled or sprouted bulbs are discarded. Large or medium-sized cloves are the most suitable material for planting.

Cloves prepared for planting are pickled and disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or a 3% suspension of TMTD for 10-15 minutes. If disinfection is not carried out, then it is useful to soak them for at least 12-24 hours. weak solution potassium permanganate. Such preparation promotes the health of planting material and protects it from diseases.

Planting garlic in the fall before winter - timing

In order for garlic to take root but not germinate, it must be planted before winter two to three weeks before the onset of a steady cold snap. Optimal time planting winter varieties of garlic before winter is the third ten days of October in Kuban. With more early boarding, for example, in September, the sprouted cloves go into winter with 2-3 true leaves. To prevent the leaves from being damaged by frost or cold winds, the plants are hilled, and in early spring transverse harrowing to free the neck of plants.

When planting later, the cloves do not have time to take root - there is a greater sparseness of the crops due to the influence of cold winds and frosts.

Check the dates for planting garlic with.

Aerial bulbs are sown in autumn or early spring. From them grows the so-called sets - these are not cloves, but small roundish onions. If you plant aerial bulbs in the fall, then most of in the summer it will give shoots, but during spring planting there is no shoots, but round one-toothed bulbs (apples) are formed. They are planted in the fall, as they do not store well until spring.

Spring varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as it is possible to go into the field, since they are very demanding on soil moisture and low temperatures at the beginning of growth. When planting is delayed, the growth and development of plants is delayed, the yield is reduced, and the commercial quality of the products deteriorates.

Norm and scheme for planting garlic

Garlic is usually planted in rows, the distance between which is 20-30 cm. The cloves are placed at a distance of 6-8 cm, but this distance depends on their size: for large ones - the distance is greater, for small ones - planted closer friend to friend. One or two days before planting, the heads should be disassembled into teeth. If this is done, for example, a week before sowing or even earlier, then they will lose a certain percentage of germination.

How many cloves will be needed to plant, for example, 1 sq. meter of vegetable garden, it’s hard to say. The planting rate depends on the size of the cloves you are planting. Typically, agronomist experts cite the figure as 130-380 cloves per 1 m2. They get the first figure based on their average weight of one clove of 3 g, and the second - if it weighs 7 g.

Larger teeth produce larger heads. It is not worth planting cloves weighing less than 3 g, as small heads will grow from them.

At what depth should I plant? This depends, firstly, on the size of the cloves, and secondly, on the timing of planting.

In autumn, before winter, winter varieties are planted. Large cloves are planted no deeper than 5-7 cm. Smaller cloves are no deeper than 4-5 cm. But whether planting in spring or autumn, you need to make sure that the layer of soil on top is at least 3-4 cm. You can cover the beds with a small layer (5-7 cm) of mulch - straw or dry grass.

Spring varieties are planted in spring. The depth of planting spring garlic is 4-5 cm. Also make sure that the layer of soil above the cloves is at least 3-4 cm. This will ensure optimal conditions for good rooting, for the formation of heads of the correct shape.

Caring for garlic plantings, fertilizing

One of the secrets of growing garlic is feeding.

In early spring, after the snow melts, as soon as the first warm days arrive, it would be a good idea to feed the crops nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (1 tablespoon/10 liters of water). Approximately 5 liters of solution should be used per 1 m2.

In April, when the seedlings have grown, fertilizing is carried out twice, for example, this is mid and late April. The first fertilizing should contain more nitrogen. Its composition can be as follows: half a liter of chicken manure + 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska per bucket (10 l) of water. The second feeding should contain more phosphorus and potassium. The composition is as follows: 1 tbsp. spoon of double superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate + 1 teaspoon of urea per bucket (10 l) of water. We also consume approximately 5 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows the next day after fertilizing, loosen it again after a week or a week and a half, if the soil is dry, water it. Garlic loves loose soil without oxygen, which must be supplied to the roots and bulbs of the plant, so loosen the soil between the rows after each watering or after rain. By the way, if there is no rain, then watering should be done at least weekly. Water abundantly - 12-15 liters per 1 m2.

Mulching between rows can make the gardener’s work easier. Mulch will retain moisture, and the soil under the mulch always remains loose.

In order for you to grow large heads, the arrows must be broken out in time. Try to break or cut them, and do not pull them up - this can inadvertently pull out the entire onion or damage its root system. Break the arrows when they have reached a length of 12-15 cm; the breaking point should be as close as possible to the rosette of leaves. If you break it at a shorter length, it will continue to grow - you won't get a large head.

Breaking out the arrows is a special agricultural technique that allows not only to increase the size of the head, but also accelerates their maturation.

By the way, do not throw away the broken arrows - they can be used when canning preparations, as a seasoning for food.

For example, add finely chopped garlic arrows to boiled potatoes, after you have drained the water, lightly dry them. Add butter or sour cream, stir and serve. Once upon a time, a long time ago, I read this recipe - it was called “Phytoncidal Potatoes”. Since then it has been one of our family's favorite dishes.

Finely chopped arrows can be added to boiled hot pasta or noodles - this is also tasty and healthy, especially in the spring, when vitamins are so lacking.

Harvesting garlic, when to do it

Usually at the end of July, garlic leaves begin to turn yellow. This means it's time to clean up. There is an unwritten rule among gardeners: it is better to remove sooner rather than later. Even a 5 day delay matters. When cleaning earlier, it is left for outdoors under a canopy for ripening. Don't pick off the leaves yet. At the same time, nutrients from the leaves enter the bulbs, which increase their mass. In this case, the heads are dense, covered on top with dry integumentary scales, and have a good attractive appearance. And if you are literally 3-5 days late with cleaning, then the scales covering the heads burst, the teeth crumble, and the head itself becomes loose. This garlic will not be stored for long.

But I would like to say separately about the timing of cleaning. There are many varieties that have different terms maturation means they should not be removed all at once, but one by one. No matter how many times I talk to gardeners I know, almost no one knows what variety they grow. By the way, me too. But the differences in the variety can be seen by the color of the outer shell of the head and the number of cloves in the bulb. I try to sort the heads before planting in order to at least approximately plant the varieties separately.

How do you know when it's time to remove garlic from the beds?

Very simple. I always leave a few arrows, I don’t cut them all off when they start to grow. At first, during growth, the arrows bend bizarrely and are curly. But as soon as I noticed that the arrow had straightened and was standing vertically up, this was the first sign that it was time to dig up the garlic.

There is another sign - the flower heads, which have already formed bulbs, have burst - remove them for now.

Thus, knowing these signs of ripening, no matter where you live, you will never be late to harvest garlic on time. Although everyone's cleaning time will be different.

Ripening and storage of air bulbs (bulbs)

So that next year you have your own garlic for planting, leave some part of the plants with arrows in the garden, do not break them out. These plants with the arrows left should be left in the garden for another one to two weeks after harvesting the main crop. Then the arrows with air bulbs are cut off. You can tie them in small bunches and hang them under a canopy (not in the open sun) to dry. This is how garlic arrows with air bulbs are stored for 20-30 days. During this time there is an outflow nutrients from the arrows into bulbs, they become covered with dense scales, become light straw or lilac color(color depends on variety). The bulbs become very large and the shell bursts. If you are going to plant them in the fall, before winter, then clean them and sort them by size. And if the bulbs are intended for spring-summer planting, then it is best to continue storing them in bunches until spring, since when cleaning and sorting in the fall, the bulbs are injured, can dry out, and lose their germination capacity. They should be stored in a cool, dark place.

Ripe, mature, well-dried heads with intact scales are selected for storage. Best temperature for storage at home - +18°C. It is better to store garlic in mesh bags, braids or cardboard boxes.

How can you get single clove garlic?

To obtain one-toothed bulbs, aerial bulbs can be planted in autumn or spring. It should be remembered that when sowing in autumn, some of the bulbs freeze and rot. Therefore, sparse seedlings are obtained. With early spring sowing, seedlings appear on the 10-20th day, usually amicably. Sowing scheme: distance between rows is 20 cm, continuous planting of bulbs along the row. Care consists of watering followed by shallow loosening and fertilizing. complex fertilizers. Single-toothed bulbs are removed as soon as the leaves begin to lie down. After ripening (10-12 days), drying, cut off the roots and dried leaves. Single tooth is stored at a temperature of 16-18°C, relative humidity 70-75%.

One last thing... Avoid planting garlic from greengrocers or supermarkets, as you risk causing serious contamination in the process of growing garlic. viral diseases to your site.

When to plant garlic? This is not such a simple question as it seems at first glance. Especially when it comes to winter garlic and planting in the fall. If you plant it too early, the garlic will germinate ahead of time, the green shoots will be frozen, which will then negatively affect the harvest. If you plant it too late, the garlic will not have time to take root, will not tolerate frost well, and again the harvest will suffer.

Gardeners who have extensive experience in growing garlic suggest focusing not on specific dates, but on the weather forecast.

Traditionally, garlic before winter Middle lane Russia is planted at the end of September - beginning of October, and in southern regions- In November. However, ideally, to determine the timing of planting winter garlic, it is necessary to take into account the soil temperature and planting depth.

The best option is to plant garlic to a depth of 12-15 centimeters 4-6 weeks before the onset of cold weather. In this case, the morning soil temperature at the planting depth should be +7°C. What is good about such a deep landing? The ground does not freeze immediately, but gradually, starting from upper layers soil. Garlic planted deep has extra time to take root, but not enough heat to start growing. But this is exactly what we need! True, deep planting has one drawback - the fertile layer of soil in the garden bed should be 25-30 centimeters, otherwise it will be difficult for the roots of deep-planted garlic to subsequently provide the plant with nutrition. Very often deep planting of garlic is carried out in raised beds, in which for many years a luxurious layer of humus has been created with the help of constant mulching with organic matter.

A more common practice is to plant garlic at a depth of 3-7 centimeters. In this case, planting should be done later, 2-3 weeks before the expected cold snap.

How can we calculate this coming cold snap? The most obvious (and most accurate) method is to study the weather forecast for the month ahead. They promise frosts or even snow in mid-October, which means our planting time is mid-September. They promise a warm September - we postpone the planting to the beginning of October.

In addition to the weather forecast, you can navigate by folk signs. It is considered time to plant garlic if:

the frogs stopped jumping and disappeared from sight (this means that they went into hibernation);
the storks flew south;
when your hands get cold without gloves;
when it's cold to walk barefoot on the ground;
when the first snowball passed and melted.

If you plant garlic not with cloves from a mature head, but with bulbs (small cloves that ripen at the very top of the garlic shoot), the time frame is the same as for deep planting - 4-6 weeks before frost.

When to plant garlic in spring (spring)

Sometimes it is not possible to plant garlic in the fall. Let's say the fall turned out to be very damp or very cold, or it was not possible to go to the dacha at the right time, or there is no desire to plant in the fall at all. In this case, not winter, but spring garlic is planted. And they plant it in the spring.

Planting in spring is much easier. There is no need to calculate anything, monitor the weather, and so on. When the temperature of the earth at the planting depth becomes above 0°C, then we plant. In the middle zone this usually happens in the second half of April. Spring garlic is planted at a shallow depth, the tip of the clove is buried only 2-3 centimeters.

Bulbs are planted in the spring at the same time. Only about a month and a half before planting, they are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where the temperature is approximately +4°C-+5°C. This process is called vernalization, and with its help we start in bulbs biological processes, “awakening” them. Bulbs kept in the refrigerator and planted in the spring will not shoot and grow until the first frost. By the end of summer, they will form high-quality garlic, consisting of one clove (the so-called one-clove), which can already be used as planting material for growing a full-fledged garlic bulb.

We wish you success and great harvests!

There is probably no family that does not eat garlic. And many people put it on their personal plots, making the same mistakes year after year. They confuse winter and spring crops and do not comply with deadlines. Sometimes they just forcefully stick the tines into the ground and wait for a miracle harvest.

There are many articles on this topic on the Internet. And it’s clear that the advice there is rubbish. Let's look at them, and at the same time find out how to plant garlic in the fall.

Choosing a landing site

Some sources claim that it does not matter where the garlic is planted. This is fundamentally wrong. Autumn planting is a whole technology. And if you just poke the cloves somewhere, it’s unlikely that anything serious will grow.

Correct agricultural techniques must be followed to ensure satisfactory results:

The place must be prepared in advance. The soil should rest for at least a month from previous plantings. During this time, you can prepare it slowly and without much effort.
Choose an area where root crops and other bulbous plants do not grow. A place under early greenery or melons is ideal.
It is advisable to dig up the soil or at least treat it with a flat cutter. At the same time, for each square meter add 3 kg of humus and 30 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Naturally, they remove weeds.
And further. The site should not be flooded with water in autumn and spring.
Good illumination for at least two thirds of the day is welcome.

These are the basic rules for choosing a landing site. There are recommendations to make fresh manure to increase productivity. Many people do just that. Then they are surprised. They harvest the crops, and there are rotten and diseased bulbs. They blame the weather or the seed material. And the manure is to blame. It is strictly forbidden to add it under garlic! Only very rotten and a year before planting.

When to plant in autumn

Garlic should be planted in the fall so that it has time to take root before frost, but does not have time to sprout. To do this, you will have to monitor the weather forecast. Or focus on the climate of your area. After all, if you live there permanently, then you already know approximately the time when frost sets in.

Old people advise not to trust the dubious words of modern weather forecasters. They have their own methods for determining that it is time to plant garlic in the fall:

common frogs have disappeared from view and are no longer heard in the evenings
during the day, if you step on the bare ground with your bare feet, it becomes uncomfortable because of the coolness
Half of the crown flew off the birch trees
hands without gloves are chilly outside
Indian summer is over

Of course all this folk signs. They only give an approximate idea of planting times. But why not use them in conjunction with a tentative forecast? The most error-free planting will be at night temperatures from 7 to 10 ° C.

Correct fit

Even from the smallest cloves you can get a good onion of a decent size if you leave enough room for growth and properly care for the plantings.

Therefore, you need to plant according to the 17 by 30 pattern. That is, there are 30 cm between the rows, and 17 cm between the teeth. This distance allows you to freely loosen the soil with a hoe or treat it with a flat cutter, without fear of damaging the stems. In addition, the soil will not compact during the filling of the bulb, and this directly affects the size of the crop.

The depth of autumn planting also does not depend on the size of the planting material. It should be 12-14 cm. Plant deeper - in the spring the garlic will take a long time to sprout and it will be difficult. Plant smaller - root system during germination, it can push the clove closer to the surface, and the garlic will simply freeze.

At the same time, never sprinkle the teeth on top and bottom with a layer of sand, as some advise. Because it freezes through much faster than ordinary soil. But we don't need this. It's better to sprinkle thin layer peat

In order not to damage the bottom of the garlic, there are several options for autumn planting:

They draw the beds with improvised tools. Then they are deepened, the bottom is not compacted, so that future roots can germinate freely. Sprinkle with a thin layer of peat with a small addition of wood ash. Then carefully lay the teeth bottom down and sprinkle with a layer of loose soil, about 9-11 cm.
Use a wide, long peg to make holes in the garden bed. A pinch of ash is thrown into them and cloves of garlic are dipped in. Then all that remains is to cover the planting soil.
If the soil is loose and well prepared, then you can simply draw rows. Then carefully press the garlic into the ground and cover with a rake.

The last method assumes that you are confident in the quality of your soil. Otherwise, you can damage the bottom by crushing it with excessive force.

By the way, it is recommended to plant garlic in the fall acute angle to the north, and in a semicircular side to the south. Allegedly, this allows for a 30% increase in productivity. No scientific research has been conducted on this topic. But what prevents you from experimenting in your garden by planting one bed in this way? And in the summer, compare the harvest and decide - truth or fiction. Moreover, there is absolutely no harm from this.

Pre-planting treatment

It’s not enough to just peel the heads and poke them into the soil. To prevent garlic from getting sick and rotting, it must be processed. The largest and healthiest teeth are selected first. They must have a dense skin of a characteristic color for the variety. Yellowing or a gray (greenish) tint indicates that the progression of the disease has already begun. It is not recommended to plant such teeth.

Naturally, external mechanical damage there shouldn't be. Cuts, dents, scratches are the first gateway for pathogenic bacteria. No amount of treatment will cure infected garlic cloves.

After peeling and picking, soak the garlic in a solution of table salt for 5 minutes. This is 5 tbsp. l. for 5 l clean water. Then, without drying, immerse the planting material in a solution of copper sulfate or a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For at least 2 hours.

At the end of processing, it is advisable not to dry out the garlic, but to plant it immediately. Although, it happens that sometimes this is not possible. In this case, it is allowed to plant the teeth within 3 days. Otherwise, you will have to process them again later.

To mulch or not

Some sources say that you should definitely mulch the garlic with a thick layer immediately after planting. Supposedly this will protect him from frost. Rave. Garlic is protected from frost by a layer of soil on top and a good root system.

What if the autumn is prolonged and the plantings begin to sprout? Subsequent frosts will not harm the greenfinch. But the mulch layer simply will not allow the young garlic feathers to straighten out. Or in the spring you won’t have time to clean it up after the snow melts. The result will be the same.

It would be correct to use mulch only when severe frosts have already arrived and there is no trace of snow. But not before! In this case, you can use peat, leaf litter, sawdust, humus, spruce branches, and moss. You can even take a thick covering material in several layers. But the main thing is that any of the shelters must be removed when the snow begins to fall.

And in order to delay it as much as possible, you can throw it with a scoop from neighboring beds. Too lazy to swing a shovel or not possible? Place twigs or branches on top of the garlic plantings. It is desirable that they be lush and calloused. This way the snow will linger and fall like a thick blanket.

How to water correctly

There cannot be precise and strict instructions here. It all depends on the soil moisture before planting. Draw a garden bed and look. Dry land? Water before laying out the tines, thoroughly soaking the soil to a depth of at least 4-6 cm. Wet? Then watering is unnecessary.

They say that if the autumn is warm and dry, then the garlic plantings need to be thoroughly wetted several times. However, most reviews say that pre-planting watering is quite enough. AND more water no need. We tend to consider the recommendation not to water the garlic any more to be correct. Because this vegetable begins to rot, hurt and deteriorate due to excess moisture.

I came across the following phrase on the Internet: “March garlic is much healthier than May garlic. Fresh heads are good in early spring.” What kind of garlic is ready to be dug out from the garden in March? We want to know this wonderful variety! After all, the usual winter crops are just beginning to sprout, and spring crops generally begin to be planted after the snow melts. It’s immediately obvious that the person who wrote this surpassed Michurin himself! Of course, bringing out garlic ready for use in March or May, and even in full heads, is worth a lot.
Many people are afraid of early germination of garlic. They think that at the first frost the green feathers will die, and with them the whole tooth will live for a long time. Nonsense. Garlic feathers up to 10 cm high tolerate wintering well. And in the spring they grow quietly. A cold, snowless winter can destroy the rose aboveground part. But the roots remain intact. Therefore, there may be a slight loss in yield. But it is perfectly replenished with mineral and organic fertilizers throughout the growing season.
By the way, garlic is very grateful for phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. But with an excess of nitrogen in the soil, it forms a loose onion, which is highly susceptible to various diseases and rot.
There are recommendations to soak the teeth in a solution of em-bacteria before planting. We consider this inappropriate. When garlic is planted, the soil temperature is only +5-7°C. And em-drugs only work at temperatures above +17°C. It is better to use them for their intended purpose. Prepare in the spring green manure using microorganisms, then serve the already grown garlic. This will be effective.
Do not buy store-bought garlic for later planting or imported from other regions. As a rule, its bottom is cut off, and with it the beginnings of the roots. It's better to look for suitable heads from people in the market. Or, if possible, buy from neighbors, acquaintances, relatives. This way you will know for sure that the planting material is zoned and will grow well in your garden.
Do not turn the prong upside down when autumn planting. IN as a last resort, you can put it on its side. Well, the head develops best when the garlic is planted vertically, with its thin tail facing up. A tooth lying on its side will have a bent stem, which makes it much more difficult for nutrients to reach the head. Upside down garlic may not sprout at all. And it certainly won’t give you a mighty harvest of strong and large heads.

How to plant garlic in the fall? As you can see, this is a whole technology. But by following our recommendations, you can reap a generous harvest in July to your delight. After all, it’s much more pleasant to taste your own garlic - it’s easy and economical.