Planting and caring for lilacs. How long does bird cherry bloom and when does flowering begin? What year does it bloom?

When can I expect adenium to bloom at home, grown from seed? How similar will it be to the variety? Perhaps these are the main questions we ask ourselves when our adeniums grow. Of course, I want it faster. And you know, I have two news for you, and both are good. There is a high probability that many plants will bloom before two years - and if you sowed in autumn-winter, then there is a chance that they will bloom in the coming summer.

At good conditions life and proper care!!! Maybe you have already read a lot on the Internet that adenium at home blooms in the 3rd-4th-5th year. Apparently, this is true for most indoor adeniums. However, in Izhevsk (note, this is on the 57th parallel northern latitude) there are other facts. At 7 months, in 2010, my friend’s seedling bloomed. And in 2011, as many as 2 seedlings at the age of 6.5 and 8.5 months bloomed for me. And plus to this, 13 more of mine and 2 of my friends’ seedlings bloomed at the age of 1 year 4 months to 1 year 10 months.
They say they wait three years for what was promised? Or maybe try not to make mistakes in care? Eh, if I hadn’t made them, then perhaps there would have been more flowering flowers from seeds this year!

So, it’s time to present the adeniums from seeds that pleased me in the conditions of a sunless spring and late summer. I’ll start with those who especially distinguished themselves, or rather blossomed in a very early age. In August 2011, at the age of 6.5 months, a seedling of the variety opened its first bud Yellow Earth.

As one of the forum members put it: “And I haven’t grown my butt yet, but let’s bloom!” Yes, with a caudex width of 2.5 cm and a “height” of 14 cm, adenium already has flowers! Flower diameter 6 cm, color pale yellow. Up to the grade, i.e. bright yellow color, he didn’t make it, but I think it’s forgivable for the cub. The main thing is that it is not pink, not white, not bordered - it is still yellow! And it didn’t bloom in a greenhouse, but in ordinary conditions in a city apartment.
However, this is not all: his brother is not far behind - a seedling of the same variety, sown in the same bowl. It bloomed the very last of the season -. already under the lamps, when no one expected it from him. Age - 8.5 months, several millimeters thicker than its brother, flower 5.5 cm with a pink streak in the middle of the petal. Gag, however.
But who can say that he is not good? This flower is more yellow than the previous one, and the combination with pink looks great.
So, what is the southernmost city in Russia? So the adeniums will confuse the whole map for us. After all, in Izhevsk there are already 3 flowering plants under the age of one year, and this is without any greenhouses. (There is a separate article about the first one.)

And then the firstborn, i.e. adenium, which was the very first to bloom for me in April. Of course, there was no limit to my joy when I discovered buds on it. There were no special hopes or expectations for him because... I don’t know the name of the variety, so I didn’t expect anything special. I got the seeds by accident; at that time I had no idea how fascinated I would be with the crops.

Agree, it’s a very unusual sight when a flower is 3 times larger than a caudex and at the same time has a very pleasant aroma! The nameless one did not disappoint. The handsome one bloomed at the age of 1 year 10 months.
Plant height is about 22 cm, flower diameter is 8-9 cm.

The following 4 plants are grown from seeds sent to me by a Russian seller. During the period when I was choosing worthy nurseries to buy seeds for my growing needs, I could not resist and made an order in Russia in order to plant it faster. I don’t know about others, but in my case with this seller the saying was confirmed - haste is needed when catching fleas. What they sent me as Adenium Arabikum Desert Night Fork bloomed as a simple non-varietal Obesum (Adenium obesum). Bloomed at the age of 1 year 5 months.
Variety Star of Luck showed beautiful flower, but it is not similar to the declared variety, it is closer to the Star in Stile variety. Age 1 year 4 months. Caudex 3.5 cm, plant height about 22 cm.
And then it’s really interesting: what was sown as a semi-double Doxon variety bloomed according to the variety…. otherwise: 100% match Love Affairs of Star. Age 1 year 8 months, height only 14 cm and a very small “butt” - only about 2 cm.
I was really looking forward to the variety blooming Polaris, called on one Russian website the variety of the year (though which year is not specified, and can be understood in any way). And then the long-awaited buds appeared. But the flower again turned out to be completely different from that opera. There were quite a lot of flowers on one peduncle; they lasted for a long time and were pleasing to the eye. You can admire them for a long time, but this is not what I expected. Age 1 year 8 months.

And the last variety in this series: expected Super Moonlight Fairy and it bloomed Bosom Jade, or rather very, very close to this variety. In the manufacturer's photo, the veins near the throat of the flower are somewhat brighter. This plant, although it was not what we were expecting, greatly pleased us and even exceeded our expectations. In total, more than 40 buds were formed on 2 growths. It was in October, and several buds withered, but in total 33 flowers opened!!! In the photo: 16 flowers are open at the same time. Age 1 year 10 months, height 26 cm, caudex 3.5 cm.

Variety Star Studded Sky immediately became my favorite. Age 1 year 9 months, height about 28 cm, caudex 7 cm correct round shape and fragrant flowers with a greenish throat. Flower diameter 8-9cm. Full compliance with the declared variety, as far as one can judge from the manufacturer’s photo.

ABOUT yellow flowers Yellow Earth which bloomed at 6 and 8 months, I already wrote above.

And now let’s pay attention to those plants that bloomed inappropriately. Seeds of varieties and Triple Love Roses were received from Thailand. Both are declared double, but in reality the flowers turned out to be quite ordinary, five-petaled. The advantage of the first is unusual shape a flower petal, and the second has an amazing and delicious aroma. Both of them are beautiful. With a small "growth" they have a good caudex - a little more than 4 cm, and the apical inflorescence looks very harmonious on a plant of this size.

Variety Cellona I decided to show myself as a different kind. In full accordance with the picture of another manufacturer, which in general is not so surprising - they all have a common foremother. In late autumn, only 2 6-centimeter flowers opened under the lamps.

And the next plant from the seeds of the same Thai manufacturer shocked us with its unusual shape and great desire to flower. Adenium arabica "dwarf" white giant» (the Thais will come up with a name!) at a height of 13 cm, the caudex “grew up” 4 cm and produced 3 flowerings in a row, starting at the age of 1 year and 5 months. Young again, and early!!! Theoretically, “Arabs” should bloom later, but the facts are different. Arabicum flowers, as expected, are only 4 cm in diameter, but they readily appear again and again, almost in the same place. And we enjoy almost continuous flowering within a few months.
It is worth noting that in Izhevsk, many adeniums at home under the age of 2 years have already bloomed. The girl who bought one single seedling from me showed it blooming a year later. (1 year 5 months).

And here is the flower of my friend, who took a seedling from me in 2010. She has north-east windows, and she loves flowers very much, so she kept suffering, “Why aren’t they blooming? Come and see what’s wrong?” It was in October, there wasn’t much to expect at that time, but I went. Before detailed analysis it didn't work out, because... buds were immediately discovered on one of the plants. So, on the north-eastern window in October, under the lamps, another adenium bloomed at 1 year 10 months. The label is missing, but it appears to be Noble Concubine.

Let's summarize some results:

Flowering adenium at home in the 1st and 2nd year is very achievable for lovers of indoor flowers.
All plants bloomed with normal care - no special techniques, stimulants or other dances with tambourines.
South orientation of windows, regular watering and fertilizing are sufficient conditions for mass flowering of adeniums.

To be fair, it is worth noting that not all adeniums from seeds of this age bloomed. For some reason, the largest specimens refused to bloom. Plants that had some problems at an early age were also not included in the list of leaders. But they branch well, and the hope for flowering is now, of course, next summer.

So, they bloom, bloom willingly and in different ways! And often even by variety! And sometimes even together!

But just for the sake of this, you need to plant a lot and care for it correctly, and then you are guaranteed a decent collection of adeniums.

Few people know that lilacs are related to olive trees. This plant tolerates both frost and drought, so beautiful and unpretentious ornamental plant need to look. As a rule, lilacs are planted in the second half of August or the first week of September. However, this does not apply to all its varieties. So, planting lilacs in April is possible if it is a climbing lilac.

It is important to observe several conditions for proper planting of lilacs:

In the place where lilacs are planted, the soil should be slightly alkaline, or better yet, neutral, and have excellent permeability.
Lilac will bloom only if it gets enough sunlight in the first half of the day. Lack of light slows down the growth and reduces the flowering of lilacs.
It is advisable to protect the place where the lilac will grow from the wind.
The ideal place to plant lilac bushes is on a slope from the southwest.
When planting, add to the soil organic fertilizers, later - mineral.
Planting lilacs in the ground in spring or autumn is best done in cloudy weather or in the evening.
The holes for planting lilac seedlings in the spring should have steep walls and a size corresponding to the condition of the soil (the higher its fertility, the larger the holes).
Planting lilacs with a closed root system, as they say experienced gardeners, much easier landing lilacs with an open root system.
When planting lilac seedlings in the spring, flowering will not occur in the same year, which is why it is better to plant lilacs in the fall.
Planting lilacs with cuttings is a labor-intensive process, even preparatory stage take a lot of time. They are planted during the period of active flowering, and in the fall lilacs are planted in open ground, and caring for the seedlings necessarily includes protecting the root system from frost.

Lilac care

In order for blooming lilacs to please the eye for as long as possible, the following procedures should be followed to care for them:

In the first half of summer, lilac bushes need abundant watering;
Regular removal of weeds is necessary tree trunk circles;
Lilac of any variety needs pruning: after the first year - thinning, after the third year you will have to “shape” the spreading form yourself;
Caring for lilacs also includes pruning rhizome “offshoots” and root shoots;
Climbing lilacs require support to “make” them grow upward;
One third of the inflorescences generously blooming lilac needs to be removed.

What year does lilac bloom after planting?

The year in which lilacs bloom after planting depends on when it was planted and in what way. In any case, this will not happen next spring. It is even more foolish to expect inflorescences after planting lilacs in the spring. The timing of the first flowering is usually two to three years after planting. Lilacs bloom after planting, sometimes even after 5 years.

Any of the lilac varieties blooms very beautifully. Lilacs look great on a trunk (trunk without side shoots). By the way, standard lilacs are easier to form. But dwarf lilac blooms twice a year.

Lilac problems and diseases

Lilac can suffer from the following diseases:

· Yellowing of leaves due to lack of moisture or nutrients (zinc, iron, magnesium).
· Curling and yellowing of leaves due to an imbalance in the development of the root system and the above-ground part of the plant.
Virus infection:

Ring mottling;

Chlorotic leaf spot;

Ring spot, etc.

Mycoplasma diseases can be identified in lilacs by the appearance of so-called “witches’ brooms”.
Bacterial rot of lilac affects leaves, shoots, inflorescences, and buds. It appears in early spring in the form of small wet spots that quickly grow and turn black.
Verticillium wilt of lilac occurs due to infection by a fungus and manifests itself in the form of gradual death of the plant, starting from the top (the leaves become brown, dry out and fall off).

Usually lilac successfully resists diseases, but prevention is necessary. Some diseases, such as viral ones, cannot be cured. Therefore, there is only one method of dealing with them - uproot the bush. Gardeners say that planting lilacs in the spring with a closed root system requires special care and protection from diseases. However, lilacs planted in the fall also require regular preventive measures.

Garden jasmine: planting and care features

The aroma of jasmine is well known from childhood. A wonderful miracle in the parent's garden! A huge spreading bush with star-shaped snow-white and cream flowers attracts with its exotic and sweet smell. No other shrub has such a fragrant and pronounced aroma. The article will tell you how to grow jasmine in your garden.

Jasmine planting and care

Preparing jasmine for winter

Methods for propagating jasmine

What does jasmine suffer from and what pests can it damage?

Tips for caring for garden jasmine

Working on creating a landscape composition

In Latin, mock orange sounds like Philadelphus. The plant is named after Cleopatra's son, Ptolemy Philadelphus. All his life he loved fragrant flowers and incense. And people call it mock orange. In the distant past they made from twig-like smooth shoots smoking pipe, part of which is called “chubuk”. The wood of the bush is hard, so it is used to make flutes, pipes and other crafts.

Jasmine planting and care

To grow a beautiful and neat plant, you should know and follow certain agricultural techniques.

The plant tolerates shade, so it can grow both in shaded areas and in the sun. Planted jasmine in a well-lit place will bloom more abundantly and develop quickly.
Planting jasmine seedlings can be done in autumn or early spring. These periods are favorable for the rooting and development of young plants.

Soil for planting garden jasmine

Jasmine is not picky about the soil, but it can only reveal itself in all its glory on fertile soil. The shrub does not tolerate stagnant water, so it must be planted in a high area or by making preliminary drainage from crushed stone with sand, broken brick or gravel. The layer height must be at least 15 cm.

For a seedling, you need to dig a hole 50 cm deep, fill it with fertile soil and add 30 g of nitrophoska. When planting, you need to ensure that the root system is not buried more than 3 cm into the soil. The soil around the seedling is compacted and watered abundantly.

Feeding jasmine bushes

Feeding mock orange bushes begins a year after planting.
Mineral fertilizers. For 10 liters of water you will need: superphosphate - 30 g; urea - 15 g; potassium sulphide - 15 g. All ingredients are stirred in a bucket of water and the contents are poured under 1-2 jasmine bushes. Faded shrubs should be fed by adding 15 g of potassium and 20 g of superphosphate to the soil.
Organic fertilizers. Slurry has proven itself well. To prevent the plant from getting burned, organic fertilizer is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is recommended to carry out this feeding once a year. You can use birch or apple ash, embedding it in the soil under the jasmine. For one bush, it is enough to take 100 g of fertilizer.

Formation of a jasmine bush and anti-aging pruning

Often, tall varieties of garden jasmine acquire an asymmetrical shape, which is associated with different growth rates of the plant. To make it more neat, regular formative pruning will be required.

You can give jasmine a beautiful look during the growing season. At the beginning of spring, when it becomes warm, it is necessary to trim long branches a little, and shorten weak ones by half. This procedure will enhance the active growth of young shoots.
Over time, the bush grows, the branches become bare and choke the plant. Without a doubt, such a look does not decorate jasmine. Required to carry out Anti-aging pruning.

With the arrival of spring, 4-5 trunks are shortened to half a meter, and all other shoots are cut to the ground. To prevent the development of fungal diseases, bare areas need to be treated. Garden var - good remedy to protect the plant. Mulch the surface substrate with compost and pour mullein infusion onto the soil. During the growing season, jasmine loves regular watering, 20-30 liters per mature plant.
Young shoots grow from dormant buds. They are removed almost completely. It is recommended to leave only the 2-3 strongest branches on each stump. They will be the basis of the new bush. Within a year, jasmine acquires decent looking, and after 3 years you can enjoy flowering.
Sanitary and cosmetic pruning is held every year. You should thin out the bush, remove excess shoots, and promptly remove flowers that have lost their attractive appearance.

Preparing jasmine for winter

An adult jasmine bush does not need any additional preparation; it tolerates cold temperatures well. Behind winter time The tops of young branches may be damaged, but in the spring, after formative pruning, jasmine quickly gains strength and is restored.
But it is not so easy for young seedlings to withstand the winter cold, therefore, if the bush is not even a year old, it should be covered with light material and secured with rope in late autumn.

Jasmine planting and care photo

In late autumn, the soil is dug up and covered with mulch near the plant trunk, as well as garden compost, manure or pine needles. This will prevent the root system from freezing.
The garden shrub, thanks to its unpretentiousness in care and ease of propagation, has won the hearts of gardeners. An adult beautifully flowering mock orange - business card garden! Enchanting aroma, abundant flowering, snow-white and creamy, simple and beautiful, fluffy double flowers attract the attention of every passerby. You just want to stop, breathe in the unique aroma and enjoy the beauty of garden jasmine.

Methods for propagating jasmine

There are many ways to obtain a new specimen of your favorite variety. Garden jasmine is propagated by layering, woody and green cuttings, as well as seeds. The last method is time-consuming, quite labor-intensive and takes a lot of effort. Jasmine blooms only in 7-8 years.

Seed propagation

Small dusty mock orange seeds are planted on pre-prepared beds even before the onset of winter. severe frosts. Sowing is carried out in December, when the snow cover rises above the site and reaches 15 cm in height.
The seeds are planted in the soil and the beds are covered with spruce branches. During the winter they undergo natural stratification. In the spring, with the first rays of the sun, the snow cover will begin to melt and be absorbed into the ground, saturating the seeds with moisture. After some time, the first green shoots will appear.
The quality of seedlings grown from seeds is quite high. They are less susceptible to diseases and tolerate harsh winters well.

Reproduction by layering

With the onset of spring warmth, all shoots must be cut off from the mother bush. Over the summer, young shoots grow near the plant. The strongest and strongest can be used for reproduction.

At the very bottom of the shoot, under the first developed bud, it is recommended to tie the lignified branch with copper or aluminum wire. This procedure will entail the formation of a root system. All that remains is to tilt the shoots towards the ground into pre-prepared shallow grooves. The shoot is placed in a hole and secured with wire in several places for good fixation. The grooves must be filled first with sand and then with peat.
After just 1.5 months, new shoots will grow on the cuttings, which need to be covered with soil twice during the growing season. In the fall, they are shortened, separated from the mother bush and transplanted to a new place for growing.

Propagation by young cuttings

June is the most suitable month for harvesting planting material. Which cuttings are suitable for propagation? If you take a shoot 10 cm long and bend it into a ring, it should not break.
You need to start preparing the material in the morning; at this time the branches contain enough moisture. Under the lower bud they cut obliquely, and above the upper bud - in a straight line. The leaves are shortened by half; you should not tear them off completely.
The greenhouse is the most comfortable spot for rooting young parts of the bush. The substrate for plant development should consist of sand and weathered peat, taken in equal quantities. Before planting, it is recommended to keep the cuttings in a solution that promotes root formation for 20 hours. The planting depth is 3 cm. There should be a distance of 5 cm between the cuttings. The lower leaves should not be buried in the ground.

Lilac agricultural technology

Location: the place for planting lilacs should be sufficiently lit, inaccessible to strong wind. Low, swampy and flooded places in autumn and early spring are unsuitable. Even short-term stagnation of water causes the death of young roots.

The soil: should be moderately moist, fertile, drained, with a high humus content. Slightly acidic and neutral soils with low groundwater levels.

Landing: It is best to plant lilacs from the second half of July to the beginning of September. If you do this in late autumn or spring, the bushes take root worse and in the first year they give almost no growth. The distance between bushes when planting depends on the type or variety of lilac and is 2 - 3 m. Planting holes are dug with steep walls. On medium-fertile soils - no more than 50x50x50 cm; on poor, sandy pits, increase to 100x100x100 cm and fill with prepared substrate. It consists of humus or compost (15 - 20 kg), wood ash(200 - 300 g), superphosphate (20 - 30 g). The latter acidifies the soil, and to neutralize it, the dose of ash is doubled (for acidic soils). All components are mixed well. Acidity is 6.6 - 7.5. Bushes are planted in cloudy weather or evening time. Planting material must have a healthy, well-branched root system 25 - 30 cm long. The crown is moderately shortened by 2 - 3 pairs of buds and roots that are too long are trimmed a little, and damaged and diseased ones are completely removed. The plants are placed in the center of the hole, the roots are evenly distributed, covered with substrate and compacted.

Care: After planting, the soil around the trunks is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, mulch with a half-rotted leaf, peat or humus with a layer of 5-7 cm. The soil of the trunk circles is loosened 3-4 times during the growing season to a depth of no more than 4-7 cm.

In the first 2-3 years, fertilizers (except for nitrogen) do not need to be applied to lilacs. Nitrogen begins to be fed from the second year at the rate of 50-60 g of urea or 65-80 g of ammonium nitrate per plant per season. Organic fertilizers are more effective (1-3 buckets of slurry per bush). Mullein solution is prepared at a ratio of 1:5. It is introduced at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are given in the fall once every 2-3 years to a depth of 6-8 cm at the following rate: double superphosphate -35-40 g, potassium nitrate - 30-35 g per adult plant. The best complex fertilizer- ash: 200 g stirred in 8 liters of water. During flowering and shoot growth, water frequently, in summer - only in hot weather. Loosen the soil 3-4 times per season, in the spring and when weeding.

The beautiful shape and abundant annual flowering are maintained by systematic pruning of the bushes. In the first 2 years after landing on permanent place Lilac grows weakly and does not need pruning. At 3-4 years old, lilacs begin to form strong skeletal branches - the basis of the entire bush. In early spring, before the buds awaken, 5 to 10 of the most well-placed branches are found in the crown, and all the rest are cut out. Thinning and sanitary pruning are carried out mainly in early spring, but if necessary - throughout the entire growing season. For bouquets it is useful to cut up to 2 /3 flowering shoots. This causes more strong development remaining and the formation of new ones, on which flower buds are laid. Lilac stands better in water if you cut it early in the morning and split the ends of the branches.

Young seedlings need to cover the trunk circles with peat and dry leaves for the winter in a layer of up to 10 cm.

Protection from pests and diseases:

Lilac moth. Treatment with a 0.2% fozalone solution is required.
Lilac hawk moth. Treatment with 0.1% phthalophos.
Lilac moth. Treatment with a rotor or 0.3% chlorophos.
At Kidney blight Spraying with Bordeaux mixture helps.
Bacterial rot shoots disappear when sprayed once every 10 days with copper oxychloride.

Reproduction: Wild lilac species reproduce by seeds. Sowing is carried out in autumn or spring after two months of seed stratification at a temperature of 2-5C. Varietal lilacs are propagated by layering, cuttings or grafting. The grafting is performed with a cutting or a dormant bud (budding). The rootstock can be common privet, Hungarian lilac and common lilac.

Lilacs can be budded with a dormant bud (in summer) and an awakening bud (in early spring, at the beginning of the growing season). During spring budding, cuttings are harvested in February - March and stored in the refrigerator in bunches of 10 - 20 pieces wrapped in paper. During spring budding, the survival rate is 80%. The vitality of the oculants is high, and they overwinter successfully. Due to the rapid blooming of buds in the spring, there is little time for budding, so the more common method of propagation is by dormant buds.

The rootstock is prepared from the second half of June: the side shoots are cut to a height of 12 - 15 cm, and the shoots are removed. Late pruning, immediately before budding, is not recommended, since the pruning site does not have time to heal. The thickness of the root collar of the rootstock should be 0.6 - 1.5 cm, and the bark should be easily separated from the wood. To do this, it is necessary to water the plants abundantly 5–6 days before the start of grafting. On the day of budding, the rootstock is unplanted, and the grafting site is thoroughly wiped with a clean, damp cloth. Cuttings with buds for budding are prepared as they mature. The buds of mature shoots are large, the bark is brown, the maturity of the cutting is also determined by bending: it emits a faint cracking sound as a result of the breakage of lignified tissue. Optimal thickness cuttings 3-4 mm, length 20 - 30 cm, it is better to cut them With southern or southwestern side of the bush crown. The leaf blades are removed, and the leaf petioles 1 - 1.5 cm long are left. They serve for ease of budding. Prepared cuttings are packaged in plastic wrap with moistened moss or sawdust and stored in the basement or refrigerator for 7-10 days. The buds are taken from the middle part of the shoot. The upper ones, usually floral (1-2 pairs), are not used. The lower, poorly developed buds are also unsuitable for budding. From one mature shoot you can take 10-15 full buds. Best term budding in central Russia - second half of July. The success of budding depends on the execution technique. At a height of 3 - 5 cm from the ground level, a T-shaped cut is made with a quick short movement of the knife so as not to touch the wood tissue. The length of the longitudinal cut is 2-3 cm. At the point of contact of the cuts, the bark is lifted (with the bone of a garden budding knife). The cuttings are taken into left hand and hold it with your thumb and middle finger above the cut bud. The index finger is extended and supports the handle from below. The knife blade is placed under acute angle to the cutting 1 - 1.5 cm above the bud. Quick movement right hand the knife is inserted shallowly into the wood and pulled towards itself. Along the entire length of the shield it must be kept at the same depth and only under the kidney the blade is slightly deepened and pressed to overcome the denser tissue of the vascular bundle. A correctly cut shield has a thin layer of wood, its length is 2-2.5 cm, the position of the bud is in the center.

Further preparation of the shield consists of separating the wood. The shield is held in the left hand with the wood facing up. The wood is carefully lifted with a knife and with a quick movement, supported by the thumb of the right hand, it is separated from the bark. If the vascular bundle is damaged, the shield must be discarded. A properly prepared shield is taken by the petiole and inserted into a T-shaped cut on the rootstock. Using the bone of a knife, you can move the shield down and, in the best case, it should end up in the middle of the cut. The bark of the rootstock is bent to the shield and tied. For tying, an elastic film is used, which is used in medicine for compresses. The ribbons are cut 30-40 cm long and 1-1.5 cm wide. The tying starts at the top and ends under the bud. The ends of the tape are secured above the transverse cut with two turns clockwise. The winding is spiral: each lower turn is overlapped by the upper one. The binding should tightly, without gaps, cover the entire longitudinal cut on the rootstock. The scutellum bud remains open. The end of the tape at the bottom is secured with a loop. Then the rootstock is hilled up, after 5-7 days the occulants need to be watered, and after 15-20 days you can check the survival rate: the established buds are shiny, have a fresh appearance, the petiole falls off with light pressure. The buds that have not taken root dry out and turn black, and the leaf petiole holds firmly.

It is best to carry out budding from 5 to 10 and from 16 to 20 hours. Budding is not carried out in the rain. Immediately after the first frost, the budding plants are covered with a layer of dry peat 5 - 10 cm above the grafting site. In the spring, the peat is raked, the binding is removed and the stems are cut “on a spike” 5-7 cm above the bud. The cut site is covered with garden pitch. The buds are immediately removed from the thorn, except for the top 2-3, which ensure sap flow and supply of nutrients. When the eye begins to grow, the remaining buds are removed from the thorn. The new shoot is tied to a thorn so that it does not break off.

Caring for oculants: loosening, weeding, watering, fertilizing (250 g of full mineral fertilizer per 1 sq. m), removal of growth. By autumn, the length of new shoots is 30 - 100 cm. Next spring, the thorn is removed.

Lilacs can be propagated from green cuttings. Their rooting depends on humidity and temperature. Optimal humidity 95 - 100%, temperature 23 - 25°C. Substrate: a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1. The cuttings are treated with indolylbutyric acid at a concentration of 40 - 50 g per 1 liter of water for 24 hours. Time to take cuttings: for early-flowering varieties this is the beginning of flowering, for late-flowering varieties this is the period of mass flowering.

When forming a standard lilac, the buds are removed from the trunk of a standard 50-80 cm high, only the top 5-6 pairs are left, and the top of the shoot is cut off above the last one. One bud is left in the top pair (the second is plucked out). When forming a seedling in the form of a bush, the first pair of buds is left at a height of 12 - 15 cm. By autumn, the bush develops a good crown. For 3-4 years, the formation of the crown continues, all weak and unnecessary branches are removed. The main shoot is shortened. To obtain a compact crown, pinch out the side shoots. The growth is constantly removed. Depending on the variety, in the 4th year of life you can have a bush about 1.2 - 1.5 m high, which is ready to bloom after a year. To increase the decorative effect, some of the flower buds should be removed. You need to cut the inflorescences shorter, leaving a couple of normally developing annual shoots on the shoot.

Lilac lovers should know the difference between grafted and rooted lilacs:

Own root lilac(i.e. grown by green cuttings or rooting layering) is preferable to grafted lilac. In conditions middle zone In Russia, lilacs on their own roots are quite frost-resistant. Own-rooted specimens are distinguished by their greater ability to recover from freezing by shoots and are therefore more durable. Since lilac is a cut tree ornamental shrub, then it forms many wound surfaces. This creates a danger of lilacs becoming infected with tinder fungi, which are wood destroyers, and subsequently freezing in severe winters.

In good growing conditions, rooted varietal lilacs are in no way inferior to grafted plants in terms of the size of inflorescences and their abundance on the bush. The undoubted advantage of own-rooted lilacs is the absence of rootstock growth, which makes it easier to care for. Uncultivated wild growth must be pruned two or three times a season, since as it grows, it weakens and clogs the cultivated variety.

The shoots of own root lilac can serve as an excellent planting material. Rooted cuttings of varietal lilac are separated from the mother bush and planted 4-5 cm deeper than the place where the roots are attached. This provides the plant with better water supply and stimulates additional root formation. If the cuttings do not have a strong enough root system, then aboveground part After planting, prune thoroughly. IN favorable conditions When growing layering plants, they bloom already in the third year.

Upon landing Grafted lilac It is very important to consider what the vaccination was for. Cultivated varieties of lilac can be grafted onto wild lilac, Hungarian lilac and privet. A seedling grafted onto a common lilac is planted just above the soil level, with a small mound (5-10 cm), due to this the amount of off-grade shoots is reduced. When planting, seedlings grafted onto Hungarian lilac or privet are buried 5-8 cm in order to subsequently transfer the variety to its own roots. To avoid overheating, the grafting site near the trunk is sprinkled with sand.

To the advantages Hybrid lilacs(varieties Gayavata, Belicent, Hunting Tower, Celia) is that they do not sprout, grow much faster than varieties of common lilac, and begin to bloom in the third year. They are beautifully leafy, their flowers are painted in a variety of shades and tones. Abundant flowering lasts up to three weeks. One of the advantages is also more late period flowering: hybrid lilac blooms 7-10 days later than common lilac, Amur lilac - three weeks later.

IN Lately It has become fashionable to arrange syringaria gardens in which species and varietal lilacs are planted, selecting forms according to flowering time and flower color.

Flowering of garden hibiscus: what year after planting does it bloom, hibiscus flowering season. In today's article you will learn when your hibiscus will begin to bloom. How to make garden hibiscus bloom if there are no inflorescences yet.

Garden hibiscus often planted with seeds – gradual development in a warm microclimate produces disease-resistant seedlings. In general, garden hibiscus is an extremely frost-resistant plant intended for growing in open ground. Garden hibiscus grows and blooms for a long time, therefore, planting it is a good investment in the future decoration of the garden.

Hibiscus flowering season: summer period.

Flowering time: from June to September.

Absorbing nutrients from the soil mixture, enjoying the active rays of the sun and summer warmth, mature garden hibiscus lays flower buds. After planting, development occurs gradually - every year the flower grows by 10-12 cm, also increasing the crown. Since the development of the surface part is not as fast as we would like, you will have to be patient to wait for flowering.

What year does garden hibiscus bloom? : in the 3rd year after germination by seeds.

Speed of development and flowering depend on many factors, including climatic conditions, composition of the soil mixture, availability of fertilizers, volumes of lighting, quality of pruning, etc.

Garden hibiscus prefers bright lighting with partial shading if located on a southern site. Flat and open terrain with a loose soil mixture is conducive to healthy development for 20-30 years.

Stimulate budding This can be done using pruning, treatment with mineral components, and moderate watering.

How does planting garden hibiscus affect flowering?

Choosing a planting season and appropriate care techniques will affect the quality of seedlings and, accordingly, flowering.

When to plant garden hibiscus:

In autumn.
In the spring.

Spring planting– typical for garden plants. The period allows the seeds to germinate without problems and the seedlings to adapt to the soil mixture.

Autumn planting is also possible and does not cause significant losses for hibiscus. In order to protect the plant from freezing in open ground, the soil mixture is mulched with dry spruce branches or non-woven material- at the choice of the grower.

Fertilizers for flowering garden hibiscus

Garden hibiscus can be stimulate with mineral mixtures, focusing on phosphorus and potassium, which contribute to the formation of buds and abundant flowering.

Nuances of flowering : the hibiscus inflorescence blooms for 1-2 days and does not live longer.

Garden hibiscus drops its inflorescences on its own when the time comes. There is no need to worry if there is no mass death of the plant - the shoots and leaves are healthy.

Spring protection of hibiscus

What to plant next to hibiscus: Chernobryvtsy, fragrant lavender.

↓ What year did your hibiscus bloom? Write in the comments how you stimulated the development of the plant?

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Herbaceous hibiscus: growing from seeds

One of the most beautiful fast-growing vines that our gardeners enjoy growing is Kampsis, and when it blooms, planted next to a wall or fence, it quickly forms real flowering thickets. This vine grows well in open ground in our regions. Kampsis is popularly called thecoma. The rules for caring for this plant are not at all complicated, and even the most inexperienced gardener will be able to grow these luxurious plants on their plot.

Description

The homeland of this amazing, completely unpretentious plant is China and North America. In the 17th century, Kampsis was brought to Europe, and it began to be actively cultivated in gardens and parks.

Campsis liana is simply an ideal plant for landscaping arches, fences, and walls. The campsis is anchored to a support by aerial roots and grows very quickly. The flowers of the plant are quite large, tubular, completely odorless, and collected in large panicles. Depending on the variety, the color of the vine flowers can be fiery orange, bright crimson, yellow-golden or even pink. Campsis blooms almost all summer - it begins to bloom at the beginning of June and continues to bloom until September. The plant is a good honey plant, and this attracts not only bees, but even flies.

Planting in the garden

Usually, when planted correctly, Kampsis blooms already in the second or third year of life. It is best to plant already rooted cuttings taken from an adult vine, which blooms profusely.

Also keep in mind when planting that Kampsis is a rather aggressive plant that quickly takes over the area around it. Therefore, metal or slate shields should be dug around the seedling to a depth of at least 80 cm.

Plants must be dug up for planting. landing hole according to the size of the root system of the seedling. The soil taken out of the pit is mixed with mature compost, and 500 grams of complex mineral fertilizer is added to the mixture. It is enough to take about 5 kg of compost. Part of the nutrient mixture is placed at the bottom of the hole, then the seedling is planted and covered with the remaining nutrient mixture. Immediately you need to make a support for the vine.

Plant care

How should the plant be cared for after planting, especially in the first year? Growing this exotic vine is not at all difficult, and even a novice gardener can cope with it. The plant is very responsive to care and grows quickly. Care comes down to watering, loosening the soil, and fertilizing.

Read also: Brugmansia - why the leaves turn yellow and what to do so that flowering does not stop all summer

The plant does not like waterlogging and drought. Therefore, it is necessary to water the Kampsis moderately, without over-watering it, and at the same time not allowing the earthen clod to dry out too much. After watering wet soil weed around the trunk circles and loosen the soil to ensure oxygen access to the roots. It is unlikely that Kampsis will die if you miss one watering, but still the vine does not like drying out, and may bloom little if there is a lack of moisture. To keep the soil moist longer, the tree trunk circles must be mulched with peat, sawdust or straw. Mulch will prevent the soil from drying out and will help you reduce the number of weedings, as it will prevent weeds from growing.

Campsis can grow and bloom well without fertilizing, but if the plant is planted on too poor soil, then it is advisable to apply nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizing. Nitrogen and phosphorus cause wild bloom kampsis. It is advisable to feed at least two to three times a year.

Trimmings

Pruning the vine is part of caring for this plant. Pruning should be done several times a year, and the formation of the vine begins immediately after planting. All shoots on a seedling should be cut to a height of 15 cm. When the shoots begin to grow, four or five of the strongest ones are left on the vine, and the rest are cut out flush with the ground.

As the shoots grow, they are tied to a support. When the skeletal branches reach a height of 4 meters, vines begin to form. Usually it takes about 2-3 years to form a bush.

When pruning, side shoots should be shortened to 2-3 buds, and all weak, diseased and withered branches should be cut off regularly. If a skeletal branch is damaged, it is cut off and one of the side shoots is sent instead, choosing the strongest one.

If the bush is old, then rejuvenating pruning is carried out, after which the plant begins to bloom with its former splendor. Anti-aging pruning is carried out in early spring, before the buds wake up. With this pruning, all branches of the vine are shortened to a height of 30 cm from the ground.

Read also: Where does heather grow and when does it bloom?

To ensure long-term flowering of Kampsis, faded inflorescences should be removed throughout the season and shoots should be trimmed by 3-4 eyes.

Why doesn't the vine bloom?

Campsis may never bloom if it is grown from seeds. Typically, plants of this species, which are grown from seeds, bloom only in the sixth year of life. While rooted cuttings bloom already in 2-3 years. Late frosts, or strong drafts and north winds may also be the reason why Kampsis does not bloom. This plant does not bloom in regions with too harsh a climate.

Preparing for winter

In regions with mild, warm winters, you don’t have to worry about Kampsis - it will survive the cold just fine. But if in winter the temperature is below -20 degrees, then the vine must be covered. The entire plant – both roots and branches – must be protected from frost.

In preparation for wintering, only skeletal shoots and a few main shoots are left. After this, the plant is removed from its supports, carefully laid on the ground and covered with spruce branches or covered with sawdust, hay, and leaves. The top of the campsis can be covered with a film, the edges of which should be pressed down with stones.

If the vine is firmly attached to the structure, then its roots should be sprinkled with sand and covered with spruce branches or leaves on top. The vine stems can be wrapped in several layers of covering material. The vine is covered with a film on top to prevent snow from sticking to it. This method of shelter ensures that the campsis survives the winter. But it is still preferable in cold regions to grow campsis on supports from which it can be removed in order to bend the shoots to the ground.

In spring, the plant is opened as soon as the first warm days arrive. If some shoots have frozen over the winter, they should simply be cut back to the healthy part.

Diseases and pests

Campsis is highly resistant to disease. The only pest that bothers this plant is aphids. Aphids wrap themselves in vine leaves located on young shoots. You can easily get rid of aphids on Campsis by spraying the pest's habitat with vodka. You can also wash off the aphids with a strong stream of cold water from a hose.

Types and popular varieties

In nature, there are only two types of campsis - large-flowered and rooting. Rooting Kampsis growing in North America, and large-flowered grows in Japan and China. Crossing these two species produced the new kind– Kampsis hybrid.

Read also: Aconite or fighter - an unpretentious plant in the garden

taking root

It is a very large vine, growing up to 15 meters in height. The liana is secured to supports using aerial roots. The foliage of Kampsis rooting reaches 20 cm in length, and the flowers can be up to 9 cm in length and up to 5 cm in diameter. The inflorescences of Campsis rooting are bright orange with a fiery red limb. This species blooms for a long time due to the sequential opening of flowers. Flowering begins in mid-summer. This species has been cultivated since 1640. The species is represented by the following decorative forms:

Magnificent - weak climbing vine, which often grows in the form of a bush. The leaves are compound, the flowers are orange-red.
Golden - blooms yellow flowers, high decorative form.
Early - this form blooms a month earlier than other varieties. The flowers are very large.
Dark purple - a plant with large flowers in the form of a vine, the flowers are purple.

Large-flowered

This species does not have aerial roots. The liana is attached to the support by shoots. Most often grown as bushes. The foliage reaches a length of 6 cm, the flowers are red-orange, large - up to 8 cm in diameter. It blooms three years after planting. The view is hard to bear winter frosts, but very bright and effective. A decorative form of the species has been developed - this is Kampsis Thunberg, which has bright orange flowers. The species has been cultivated since 1800.

Not so long ago, planting lilac bushes near the house was incredibly popular. As a rule, when planting lilacs, the following pattern was observed: a bush with white inflorescences was planted next to the house, and on the contrary - with pink or lilac ones. Unfortunately, this tradition has already been forgotten, but many people plant lilacs because they are truly a luxurious plant. In addition, planting and caring for lilacs does not cause any difficulties.

Planting lilacs

Few people know that lilacs are related to olive trees. This plant tolerates both frost and drought; such a beautiful and unpretentious ornamental plant should be looked for. As a rule, lilacs are planted in the second half of August or the first week of September. However, this does not apply to all its varieties. So, planting lilacs in April is possible if it is a climbing lilac.