home · Measurements · How to feed raspberries in June. How to feed raspberries - recommendations, methods, caring for the bush. Video: caring for raspberries in early spring

How to feed raspberries in June. How to feed raspberries - recommendations, methods, caring for the bush. Video: caring for raspberries in early spring

Raspberries are a healthy and tasty berry. This unpretentious berry bush grows well in the most forgotten corners of the dacha and constantly thanks us with a good harvest. And if you pay a little attention to the raspberries, trim them in time, find out when it’s right and, most importantly, what to feed the raspberries with, the yield will immediately increase significantly.

Raspberry is a berry bush with thorny shoots. However, in Lately Breeders are trying to develop varieties with bare shoots to make it easier to pick berries. Because of delicious berries, everyone tries to plant raspberries on the plot, but due to the fact that the raspberry tree spreads a lot and does not look very decorative, they usually plant it deep into the plot, in the farthest corner and forget about it. There, in the shade of garden trees, raspberries bloom and bear fruit poorly, which incredibly surprises the owners. What else does a raspberry need? Here are some tips that you can follow to help you harvest a serious raspberry harvest: small area all season.

Landing

The best time to plant raspberries is spring. Some varieties can be

Raspberries must be planted in a sunny place. The more light the better. As raspberries grow, they shade themselves; they do not need companions in the form of garden trees.

The seedlings are planted in trenches or holes into which humus is first poured. The seedlings are buried several centimeters deeper than they grew in the old place. On average, they are deepened by 4-6 centimeters. The distance between the holes is about 60 centimeters, and between the rows of raspberries - about a meter.

The planted plant is well watered with a bucket of water, having previously formed a hole for watering.

Watering

Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, during the season it must be watered abundantly in order to get a good harvest of tasty berries. The plant especially needs moisture during flowering, development and ripening of fruits. Therefore, the first abundant watering is carried out before flowering, the second after 2-3 weeks. The next watering is carried out at the time of harvest. The last time raspberries are watered is after pruning.

Raspberry pruning

Raspberries produce a harvest on the shoots of the second year. This rule does not apply to remontant raspberries. You need to know this in order to successfully form a raspberry bush.

The next year after planting, at the moment when the buds begin to bloom, the raspberries are formed by pruning, leaving several strong and healthy shoots. The tips of the shoots are slightly shortened, but not much, since the main fruit buds are at the top. The shoots are attached to the support.

Autumn pruning involves removing dried shoots.

Raspberry fertilizer

Raspberries are fertilized several times a season:

  • during flowering and the appearance of the ovary;
  • during fruiting;
  • after the end of fruiting.

The most important microelements for raspberries are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers reduce the resistance of raspberries to frost, so fertilizers are applied in the following sequence: nitrogen fertilizer in spring and summer, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizer in the fall. Fertilizing raspberries in the summer is recommended with organic-based compounds, since raspberries respond well to organic matter. In addition, organic fertilizers have a positive effect on the quality of the crop.

Fertilizing raspberries in spring

In May, i.e. In the spring, raspberries are fertilized mainly with nitrogen-containing compounds in order to enhance vegetation, shoot growth and thereby increase its yield. There is no need to apply mineral fertilizers, because harvesting an environmentally friendly harvest is the goal of every gardener.

Fertilizing raspberries during flowering

Here are a few recipes for feeding raspberries when they bloom:

  1. Feeding with mullein is carried out in the proportion of 1 part mullein to 10 parts water. Let it brew for about a week;
  2. A solution of chicken manure in the proportion of 1 part manure to 10 parts water, let it brew for about 10 days, and then use it as fertilizer, diluting a liter jar of infusion with 10 liters of water;
  3. To the infusion of chicken manure or mullein, prepared according to the rules, add wood ash in the proportion of 1 cup per 10 liters of water, as well as bone meal, which is added directly under the roots, mixed with humus;
  4. Yeast in an amount of 100 grams is dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water; you can fertilize raspberries with a similar composition in spring and summer. It perfectly stimulates the growth of green mass, activates flowering and increases productivity.

Fertilizing raspberries in summer

The second feeding is carried out when the berries begin to actively ripen. You can feed raspberries in July with organic or vermicompost compounds. Should not be consumed mineral compounds so that they do not affect the quality of the harvest.

  1. Use formulations based on vermicompost, diluting according to the instructions for the preparation;
  2. You can feed the raspberries again with an infusion of mullein or chicken droppings;
  3. Stimulate productivity by feeding with yeast infusion.

Fertilizing raspberries during fruiting is necessary for the plant to increase productivity, improve the quality and taste of the berries.

Autumn feeding

During the autumn fertilizing period, it is recommended to add herbaceous plants, for example, vetch, clover, mustard. By overheating, the grass loosens the soil and provides additional fertilizer to the raspberry roots. In addition, a mixture of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is applied to the plant, which will enable the plant to lay flower buds for the next season.

  1. Mix 30 grams of phosphorus and 20 grams of potassium fertilizer, the dry mixture is embedded in the soil around the bush;
  2. Sprinkle under the bush and cover up to 1 kg of wood ash on square meter raspberries; Fertilizing raspberries with ash is recommended to maintain optimal quantity potassium in soil

Fertilizing raspberries with yeast

Feeding raspberries with yeast greatly stimulates the vegetative process, flowering and fruiting of the bush. Therefore, you can feed raspberries with yeast while the berries are ripening. In addition to the fact that such fertilizing will become a stimulant, it will also strengthen the plant’s immunity, increase productivity and have a positive effect on the quality of the crop.

Material prepared by: Nadezhda Zimina, gardener with 24 years of experience, industrial engineer

Growing raspberries, depending on your goals, can be either simple or complex process. If you plant it somewhere in the backyard, in order to be able to eat a couple of handfuls of fresh berries in the summer, then special care and won't be needed. But if you want to get really good harvests, you will have to understand the agricultural technology of growing it and work seriously.

Where to plant?

This is a plant does not love open places but needs space. Nice place For growing raspberries, there can be an area near the wall of a barn, a house, or a corner of the garden, enclosed by a fence. In winter vertical supports A larger amount of snow accumulates than in the rest of the area, which provides a good supply of moisture for the entire first half of the growing season.

Raspberries do not like heavily limed soils, as well as heavy acidic clay, and grow best on humus-rich soil with a neutral reaction. This culture loves moisture, but does not tolerate stagnation. In the spring, carefully inspect the plot of land where you are going to place the raspberry tree. If, after the snow melts, there are deep puddles in this place for several days in a row, then you cannot plant here. Most likely, the bush will freeze, and even if it does take root, you may not expect good harvests.

Preparing the soil in spring

The area intended for growing raspberries is first thoroughly cleared of weeds. Especially it is important to get rid of nettles and wheatgrass, which feel at ease in the raspberry field, and, growing, suppress the main crop, making it difficult to care for. The weeds are pulled out and the soil is carefully loosened with a hoe with nail-shaped teeth, trying to pick up and remove as many roots as possible. After this, the beds are dug to a depth of 30-40 cm.

You can prepare the soil for raspberries in spring different ways. Here are several schemes for the initial application of fertilizers (both mineral and organic) into the land intended for planting (per 1 sq. m.)

  • Rotted manure – 5-7 kg, 70-90 g, potassium sulfate 20-25 g.
  • You can only add to fertile soil or black soil, it improves the taste of the berries, no more than 0.5 liters per sq.m.
  • – 10 kg, superphosphate – 100 g, potassium sulfate – 100 g.

How to plant raspberries correctly?

Planting of seedlings can be done either in individual holes, which have dimensions of 30 x 30 x 30 cm, or in trenches, 50 cm deep and wide, of arbitrary length. Fertilizers for raspberries are added to the bottom, mixed thoroughly with the soil, and spilled with water. A cutting is stuck vertically into this mess, carefully straightening the roots.

After the raspberries are planted, form trunk circle, with a depression in the center so that water can better reach the roots. The seedling is watered again with a small amount of water, so that the moisture is well absorbed and does not stagnate around the plant, forming a puddle. After this, the soil is mulched with hay, sawdust or peat.

To create optimal growing conditions, it is necessary to create raspberries comfortable conditions, providing the plants with the necessary space. To do this, leave a distance of 1-1.5 m between the rows, and 50 cm between the seedlings. After planting, it is necessary to prune the raspberries, this way they will take root better. This procedure will also help the formation of young growth around the stump.

Many summer residents who are just starting to get acquainted with this crop often wonder whether it is possible to plant bushes nearby different varieties? Does growing technology allow this? Yes, you can, since almost all varieties are self-fertile and do not need additional pollinators. For example, You can plant red and yellow raspberries next to each other; they will not cross-pollinate.

How to care for raspberry plantings?

Weeding. When the raspberries grow, this procedure becomes almost extreme, because thick thorns form on the stems, tenacious and sharp. And he also likes to grow in its thickets stinging nettle, which feels quite at ease there, forming huge plantations.

That's why the ease of caring for raspberries should be taken care of in advance, planting it in rows and fencing it with trellises on which the bushes will rest at a height of 90-100 cm above the ground. In this case, it will be easy to get to the roots of the plants and the weeds that have settled there, and it will be possible to carry out weeding more efficiently.

After removing the weeds, the row spacing is thoroughly loosened. This procedure helps supply the raspberry roots with oxygen and “turn out” the remaining weed roots in the ground. To prevent their further growth, you can cover all the space not occupied by bushes, old oilcloth or thick polyethylene.

The technology for growing raspberries requires at least four loosenings per season. The first time is loosened in the spring, after the leaves appear, twice (second and third) after weeding, the fourth time after harvesting and pruning old shoots. During the last treatment, it is necessary not only to break up the compacted soil, but also to lightly hill up the bushes, creating additional protection for roots on winter period.

Raspberry feeding

  • In the spring, raspberries that constantly grow in one place can be fed with organic matter - diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, or 1:20.
  • Of the ready-made fertilizers for raspberries, Kemira is suitable. Three spoons are dissolved in 10 liters of water, and 1 liter of solution is poured under each bush.
  • In the spring, apply only under the old raspberry tree, before loosening. For example, for 1 sq. m. soil can be added 12 g together with 10 g.
  • Bone meal, which is used to feed raspberries in the summer, contains a number of nutrients necessary for this plant, and at the same time serves as a mulching cover.
  • Wood ash, which is scattered over the beds after harvesting, will be a good fertilizer for raspberries at the end of the summer. Potassium will be deposited in young shoots, and on next year they will produce sweeter berries.
  • Green manure can be used to fertilize raspberries in the fall. They are planted between rows in the second half of summer, and after harvesting and pruning the bushes they are embedded in the soil so that the green mass has time to rot by spring. For planting, you can take clover or vetch.
  • IN autumn period berry bushes are depleted because most they transferred nutrients to leaves and fruits. Therefore, fertilizing raspberries in the fall is a necessary procedure for proper care.

Once every few years, manure or compost is applied to this crop after harvesting.. Agrochemicals can replace organic matter, for example, complex mineral fertilizer, which must contain elements such as phosphorus, potassium and ammonium sulfate, at the rate of 200 g per m2.

There are several rules that must be followed when feeding raspberries. Failure to comply with them can significantly weaken the plantings and reduce the yield.

  1. Nitrogen fertilizing should not be applied to the plant during planting and rooting in the fall. This is harmful for wintering raspberries, since it builds up excess green mass, and, on the contrary, degenerative processes develop in the roots. In the spring, the introduction of nitrogen is welcome, especially as part of organic fertilizers.
  2. After any fertilizing or watering with loosening, raspberries should be mulched, then the soil around the bushes will retain moisture longer, and it will get to the roots rather than evaporate. Dry manure, compost or high peat are excellent for use as mulch.

Remontant varieties

A remontant raspberry bush has both flowers and ripe drupes at the same time. In temperate climates, this miracle berry can produce crops almost without interruption. But the enhanced operating mode is impractical. Indeed, in this case, berries appear on both old and new branches, and next year a decrease in the yield of the plantation will naturally follow, due to the depletion of the resources of young shoots.

The best growing conditions are created when this crop is cultivated as an annual. The agricultural technology is as follows - in the fall it is necessary to prune all raspberry shoots, both young and old, at the root. Next year, the bush will actively grow young shoots all summer and accumulate strength in order to produce one, but very plentiful harvest in August.

Growing remont raspberries is also possible in the southern regions of the country. The usual one does not take root there, it is too hot and dry. And with the advent of new varieties, the problem of plant acclimatization in regions such as Sochi, Adler, Anapa, where this berry did not grow before, has been solved. Renovated varieties bear fruit much longer and more abundantly than simple ones; they are subject to higher loads and consume more nutrients. Therefore, they need to be fed more thoroughly and more often.

In June to create optimal conditions cultivation, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied under the bushes. This can be either organic matter - an infusion of manure, chicken droppings, or agrochemicals (urea, azophosphate). Raspberries are fed every 10-14 days, alternating root and foliar feeding.

In July, the plant will also need phosphorus fertilizers. If superphosphate was added in the fall, then there is enough phosphorus in the soil. If not, then you need to make an extract from double superphosphate and feed the plants once, in the middle of the month. In parallel, you can fertilize with potassium, potassium monohydrate or ordinary wood ash, preferably by extracting it.

Growing seedlings from seeds

Usually, to grow repaired raspberries in a new place, they take layerings, cuttings and root suckers. But some gardeners for breeding rare varieties They use seeds that are collected from the strongest bushes.

You need to choose overripe berries that need to be squeezed dry. Then the seed material is spread on cardboard for further drying. Well-weathered seeds are mixed with sand and planted in a pot of soil. By spring, the seedlings will be ready, and it is quite possible that they will be pleased with their first harvest this year.

Sobolev method

Cultivate raspberries on personal plot perhaps with more “exhaust” than many gardeners are used to. But, in order to significantly increase productivity, sometimes it is necessary to start making non-standard decisions.

For example, when growing raspberries using the Sobolev method, you can get 3 kg of berries from one meter of area. And this is not the limit. With good care and favorable weather conditions, the yield can reach 7 kg per square meter.

What is this method? Most main principle forced stimulation of bushes to produce abundant fruit - double pruning. Removing the top of the stem forces the side shoots, on which the berries grow, to develop and bear fruit several times more actively. The first stage of pruning is carried out in mid-June, the second - the next year, in the spring.

The growth of bushes to the sides should also be limited so that the strength and resources of the plant are not dissipated. It will help to create such growing conditions either plastic container without top and bottom, dug into the ground, or a plant fence, for example, from. This plant does not send raspberry roots into its territory, and it does not grow, devoting all its strength to the formation of berries.

Video: pruning raspberries according to Sobolev

Greenhouse raspberries

Raspberry is a plant with a taproot system, but such a root is present only in the main seedling. The shoots formed from it have a fibrous root system, which is located in the upper layers of the soil, no deeper than 30 cm. The depth of penetration depends on the structure of the soil. On lighter soils root system grows stronger and deeper.

When growing raspberries in a greenhouse, you should prepare the land for planting taking into account this feature. In late autumn or winter, it is not economically profitable to maintain a temperature at which the soil will warm up deeper than 30 cm. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory operations.

  • Limiting root growth. To do this, soil is selected along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse to a depth of 0.7 m. Water-permeable agrotextiles are laid at the bottom of the resulting hole and covered with 20 cm of sand, which will serve as drainage.
  • "Warm pillow." A layer is laid on the sand fresh manure or one-year compost, in a layer of 10-15 cm. Fresh organic matter will rot, heating the bed from below and helping to save fuel.
  • Laying nutrient soil. This is the final preparation procedure. The selected soil is mixed in advance with manure and peat (possibly with peat-manure compost), placed on a bed of organic fertilizers and watered with water. In a couple of days the soil will settle and you will need to add more.

You can start using the greenhouse in mid-summer, when it grows up planting material, and continue to use it, subject to additional small heating and lighting, until December. During this period of time you can get about 3-5 kg ​​of berries from 1 sq.m.

Remont raspberries are most often grown indoors. It is better suited for autumn forcing than usual. For this type of use, in early August, its seedlings are rooted in a greenhouse. It will begin to bear fruit in about two months (provided good care), and at the end of September - beginning of October the first berries will ripen.

Video: growing raspberries in modern raspberry fields

If raspberries grow on your site, then when talking about them, you, of course, use epithets: tasty, juicy, sweet, aromatic, healthy. Can you always add: productive, large? Such a berry grows from those who know and follow the basic rules for caring for raspberries, including properly feeding this wonderful crop.

When can you fertilize raspberries?

Take a close look at the raspberry bushes growing in your area. Their appearance always ready to tell you about what chemical elements they are lacking, and some are present in excess. Here are the signs to look out for:

  • dark green glossy leaves, gradually acquiring a burgundy-purple color, indicate phosphorus deficiency;
  • yellowness of the leaves and the presence of green veins on them indicates a lack of iron;
  • leaves turn yellow from the middle to the edge - a sign of magnesium deficiency;
  • small, stunted, yellowed leaves on the bush - the raspberry tree lacks nitrogen;
  • the edges of the leaves turn brown - this is a potassium deficiency;
  • dark green foliage with rich color and excessive shoot formation indicate an excess of nitrogen.

Photo gallery: signs of raspberry nutritional deficiency

Yellow leaves with green veins indicate a lack of iron. If there is a deficiency of potassium, the edges of raspberry leaves turn brown. The burgundy-purple color of raspberry leaves indicates a lack of phosphorus. If there is a lack of nitrogen, raspberry leaves stop growing, turn yellow, and become smaller. Leaves that begin to turn yellow from the middle to the edges are a sign of deficiency. magnesium

By accurately identifying the problem, you will be able to correct the unfavorable situation in a timely manner, helping the plant not only increase the quantity, but also improve the quality of the harvest.

Fertilizing raspberries in spring

A careful inspection of raspberry bushes is carried out in early spring during pruning and first loosening. Then you can carry out the first feeding. Superphosphate is ideal for it, containing a complex of elements necessary for raspberries. You can use ammonium nitrate, urea, wood ash.

These fertilizers are used both separately and in combination with each other. IN mineral mixtures It is useful to add organic matter.

Fertilizing raspberries during flowering and fruiting

If early spring fertilizing was not carried out on time or it turned out to be insufficient, experts advise correcting the situation during the flowering period. At this time, you need to add organic matter with bone meal under the raspberry bushes, which not only contains the necessary nutrients, but also serves as mulch for the bush.

Fertilizing with diluted slurry in a ratio of 1:4 at the beginning of flowering will make it more abundant, but such fertilizing must be done no later than mid-June, otherwise flowering will be prolonged, which will have a bad effect on the ripening of fruits. To increase productivity, fertilize in July - August with a mixture of superphosphate (1 cup), ash (1 cup), urea (2 tablespoons) per 10 liters of water. The solution is applied into grooves dug at a distance of 30 cm from the plants.

Summer feeding of raspberries can be done with a solution of superphosphate (1 glass), ash (1 glass), urea (2 tablespoons) in a bucket of water

During the fruiting period, raspberries especially need potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen is added before berries begin to form. Fertilizers such as urea and ammonium nitrate are scattered between rows and buried in the soil. Potassium sulfate is suitable for potassium feeding: 40 g of the substance is dissolved in water (10 liters) and watered with it about one meter of plantings.

Important! Fertilizers containing chlorine should not be used for raspberries.

Fertilizing raspberries in autumn

Autumn fertilizing of the crop is very important. The bush uses up a lot of nutrients for growth and fruiting, and in the fall fruit buds form. If the lack of nutrition is not compensated, then good harvest next year there is no need to wait. A bush with a lack of potassium will not be ready for winter frosts. The basis of autumn feeding is phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Note! It is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the fall, as they have a bad effect on the frost resistance of raspberries.

Before applying fertilizers, weeds are removed around the raspberry bushes and shallow loosening is carried out. In autumn, it is recommended to add the following to raspberries:

  • rotted manure at the rate of half a bucket per 1 meter of planting;
  • compost - it contains fewer nutrients, but has a beneficial effect on the soil structure;
  • fermented and diluted bird droppings;
  • potassium salt (40 g) and superphosphate (60 g) per 1 sq. meter. The fertilizer is scattered around the bushes and buried in the soil.

What and how to feed raspberries

To feed raspberries, organic matter, mineral fertilizers, and available products are used. The main thing is to understand when and how to fertilize the plant in order to bring it maximum benefit.

Mineral fertilizers

The most important elements for raspberries are potassium and nitrogen, its need for phosphorus is slightly less. If a sufficient amount of fertilizer was added when planting the bush, then experts recommend feeding the crop only with nitrogen in the first three years. With further growth each year, the raspberry bush will require 3–4 kg of organic matter, 30–40 grams of superphosphate and half as much potassium salt.

On light soils, the amount of mineral fertilizers is increased by about a third, since potassium is quickly washed out into the lower layers of the soil, and phosphorus may not be absorbed by the plant due to the formation of hard-to-reach compounds. This problem can be solved by applying mineral fertilizers together with organic ones or using slowly soluble mineral complexes (phosphorite flour, cement dust).

Without nitrogen, leaf mass cannot be formed. It helps strengthen the root system, prevents the development of diseases, and has a beneficial effect on the duration of raspberry flowering. But when using nitrogen-containing fertilizers, the following application features must be taken into account:

  • nitrogen acidifies the soil, so it is recommended to scatter about a glass of wood ash around the bushes immediately after fertilizing;
  • Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are recommended only before the fruiting period, then their application has a beneficial effect negative impact on culture.

The most effective nitrogen-containing fertilizer for raspberries is urea (urea). Rules for its use:

  • urea can be applied simply by scattering around the bush or in diluted form. When applying in bulk, fertilizer must be sprinkled with soil. Without this, some of the nitrogen will be lost to the plants. After applying urea, the bush must be watered;
  • recommended application rate: 20 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water;
  • Urea helps acidify the soil. Therefore, it can be neutralized with limestone: for 1 kg of urea 0.8 kg of ground limestone;
  • urea is less traumatic for leaves than ammonium nitrate, so it can be used for foliar feeding: spray raspberries in the morning or evening with a solution of urea (30 g per 10 liters of water).

Urea solution is used for foliar feeding of raspberries

Excessive nitrogen content is also harmful to the plant. Excess green mass has a bad effect on the formation and ripening of fruits.

Double superphosphate

To increase the yield of raspberries, accelerate their development, and increase resistance to diseases, fertilize with superphosphate. This is a nitrogen-phosphorus complex containing not only the main elements, but also others useful material. It is recommended to use fertilizer in soluble form according to the instructions. Fertilizing with superphosphate can be carried out comprehensively by combining it with other mineral fertilizers: 60 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt, 30 g of ammonium nitrate per bucket of water.

Important! On acidic soils superphosphate is difficult for plants to access.

Chicken droppings

Bird droppings are the most effective organic fertilizer for raspberries. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to use it in liquid form for autumn feeding. But since it contains a high concentration of active substances, it must be added with care and skill:

  • a solution of fermented chicken manure is added under the berry bush;
  • dilute it in a ratio of 1:20. A larger percentage of droppings in the fertilizer can burn the raspberry root system.

Video: feeding raspberries with chicken droppings

Rotted chicken manure can also be used in dry form. In the fall, you can sprinkle it on the soil around raspberry bushes.

Fertilizers that are always at hand

As fertilizer for raspberries, you can use miracle products that are often simply thrown away: potato waste, ash, and tree bark. This is not only environmentally friendly, because we return waste products to nature, but also economically beneficial.

Ash

Ash is used as one of the cheapest fertilizers for raspberries. It successfully replaces the application of phosphorus-potassium complex and improves soil structure. It is especially useful for raspberries, because it does not contain chlorine. Ash can be used in dissolved and dry form:

  • dry fertilizing: scatter a glass of ash onto 1 square meter. m raspberry. You can add dry ash into special grooves made around the plant. Fertilizer is sprinkled with soil or dry leaves on top;
  • liquid feeding: a glass of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water, infused for 7 days. The consumption rate is half a bucket per bush.

The ashes are scattered thin layer near the raspberry bushes

Important! Ash obtained from the combustion of household waste contains hazardous substances, which can be absorbed by plants. The use of such ash for feeding is unacceptable!

Potato peelings

Potato peelings can be effectively used as a fertilizer for raspberries. She responds to their introduction abundant flowering and the sweetness of the berries. Potato waste supplies raspberries with a large amount of essential microelements. Potato peelings can be added to the compost heap, or can be harvested by drying or freezing.

Potato peelings can be used both dried and rotted.

Dry potato waste can be buried under raspberry bushes. Gradually decomposing, they give up their useful components to the bush throughout the year. The peelings can be poured with boiling water, left for several days and the resulting infusion watered over the bush. You will receive free fertilizer, which will be an alternative to chemicals.

Yeast

Gardeners often practice feeding raspberries with yeast. Yeast promotes the rapid decomposition of organic fertilizers, which means increased plant nutrition. Fertilizing can be done with both dry and fresh yeast:

  • dry yeast dressing: 10 g dry yeast and 5 tbsp. l. Dilute sugar in 10 liters of warm water, leave for 2 hours, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:5;
  • top dressing with fresh yeast: dilute 1 kg of yeast in 10 liters of water room temperature. Add 0.5 liters of solution to a bucket of water.

Features and rules of yeast feeding:

  • yeast is added to well-warmed soil;
  • the prepared yeast solution is used immediately after preparation;
  • application is advisable only on well-filled organic soil;
  • During fermentation, potassium and calcium are absorbed, so it is necessary to combine yeast feeding with the addition of ash to the soil.

Bark

Another natural and cheap fertilizer for raspberries is bark, as well as rotten branches and sticks. In the fall, pieces of tree bark and cut old stems are placed under the raspberry bush; raspberry plantings are mulched with bark coniferous trees. The products obtained during rotting will feed the raspberries with environmentally friendly substances.

In autumn, it is useful to mulch raspberry bushes with tree bark

Experts recommend that when feeding raspberries, you should first of all focus on the appearance of the plants, on the harvest that you received. A bountiful harvest and healthy appearance of raspberries indicate that the fertilizing was carried out in a balanced and correct manner. Low yield and signs of starvation are a signal to increase the dose of applied fertilizers and more frequent fertilizing of raspberries. At the same time, remember that you need to apply fertilizers within reasonable limits and at the appropriate time.

All living things in nature grow and develop if they find enough nutrition for this. Raspberries, like any plant, have limited root growth. They entwine a clod of earth 30–50 cm deep and 1–2 m in diameter. The raspberry bush takes all nutrients from this volume in the first 2 years after planting. Then, year after year, without fertilizing, it begins to weaken, and the yield decreases. Raspberries often produce shoots far from the mother bush in order to be able to grow in a more fertile area. The first spring feeding is especially important, when the shoots gain strength and prepare for fruiting.

About the need to feed raspberries in spring

Spring for plants is the period when the growing season begins. The buds open, young leaves and twigs appear from them. Replacement shoots grow from the ground. Many people treat them with disdain, calling them shoots, but it is on them that the berries will grow next year, and in the case of remontant raspberries- already this summer and fall. In nature, everything is interconnected: the yield of bushes directly depends on the quality of the shoots. The stronger they are, the better they resist diseases and pests; they will bear more flower buds, set and ripen many berries.

Without good nutrition, a raspberry bush will never produce as many berries.

Where can raspberries get the strength to develop powerful and healthy shoots? Within 2–3 years after planting, it has used up all the fertilizers that you applied to the hole or landing hole. Now the bushes pump from the ground only water and pitiful crumbs of food that accidentally got to the roots. These may be unharvested and rotten old leaves, weeds, etc. But this is not enough!

Raspberries need to be fed in the spring. At this time, nitrogen fertilizers and fertilizing are especially important. It is nitrogen that contributes to the fulfillment of the main task at the beginning of each new season - good growth of green mass. Of course, other macro- and microelements are also needed, but in smaller quantities for now. They will prevail in summer feeding, during budding and flowering, as well as in autumn, in preparation for winter.

In order for raspberry shoots to become covered with lush greenery, you need to apply nitrogen fertilizing

When to Apply Nitrogen Fertilizers

Nitrogen is a very necessary, but also insidious element: it can accumulate in plants and their fruits, leading to fattening of shoots. If you overfeed raspberries, the shoots will grow thick, covered with juicy and large leaves, but may not bloom at all or produce few small berries. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizing should be given only once, without exceeding the dosage. The period of its application is extended: from the moment the snow melts until the leaves completely bloom. In the middle zone it is April and all of May.

Video: caring for raspberries in early spring

On poor clay and sandy soils, plants develop worse, so you can do two nitrogen fertilizings with an interval of 2 weeks. Focus on the condition of the raspberries. If after the first feeding it begins to grow, the leaves are green and juicy, the shoots are strong, then there is no need to feed it anymore.

There are recommendations: scatter mineral fertilizers over the melted snow. They will naturally dissolve and go to the roots. It is better to do this when there are puddles under the raspberries, and the snow remains in small islands. If the entire earth is still covered with snow, and you sprinkle fertilizer on top of it, the granules will dissolve in the thawing upper layer, but food may not reach the roots through the snow and ice. The moisture will evaporate and the nitrogen released from the granules will evaporate. Your efforts will be in vain, the raspberries will be left without food.

The first fertilizing can be done on melted snow, but not every gardener will be able to get to his plot at this time

It is safer to fertilize when the ground has thawed, the raspberries have woken up and begin to produce leaves.. At this time, the roots are already actively absorbing moisture and can absorb fertilizers. If you have remontant raspberries, and you mowed down all the shoots in the fall, then apply fertilizing when the soil warms up and dries. You can fertilize later - before the buds appear, but the sooner you fertilize, the more time the raspberries will have to respond to it with active growth of bushes.

Spring fertilizers for raspberries

There are a lot of fertilizers containing nitrogen, but they can be divided into three groups: mineral, organic, organomineral. You must choose one thing that is accessible and acceptable to you, and not pour and pour under raspberries everything that you found or were advised to you. Remember the main rule: it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. From excess fertilizer, a high concentration of salts will accumulate in the ground, they can burn the roots, the leaves will begin to dry out and crumble. And raspberries don’t need this at all.

Fertilizing raspberries with mineral fertilizers

The most common fertilizers containing nitrogen are carbamide (urea) and ammonium nitrate. There is also nitroammophoska, it contains three macroelements at once equal proportions: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If you apply it, then the dosage of phosphorus and potassium in summer and autumn fertilizing will have to be reduced.

Urea or urea is the most common nitrogen fertilizer with a well-remembered name.

Application rates of nitrogen mineral fertilizers per 1 m²:

  • urea (urea) - 15–20 g;
  • ammonium nitrate - 10–15 g;
  • nitroammophoska - 20–30 g.

One level tablespoon contains approximately 10 g of granular fertilizer. You only need to choose one of these three fertilizers.

On the Internet you can find extensive articles about mineral fertilizers with instructions. Application rates are different for each: from 7 to 70 g/m². I don't know what explains this. Here I present the doses for berry crops indicated on the packages of fertilizers I purchased. Perhaps manufacturers change recipes, and urea made, for example, in Moscow, is different from that made and sold in Krasnoyarsk. So be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging and not online. In the case of nitrogen fertilizing, this is very important.

Apply fertilizer according to its instructions

Apply mineral fertilizer on damp soil. Spread evenly and loosen to a depth of 5 cm so that the granules are mixed with the soil. If the soil has dried out, be sure to water the raspberries after fertilizing. Dry granules should not come into contact with the roots. Perfect option- apply fertilizer just before the rain or make a liquid fertilizer:

  • dissolve granules of the already mentioned fertilizers at the same rate in 10 liters of water;
  • distribute the solution over 1 m²;
  • pour on top clean water so that nitrogen goes to the roots and does not evaporate from the surface.

Video: professional consultation on the benefits and use of mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing raspberries with organic matter (without chemicals)

If you don't like chemistry, then fertilize with organic matter. This type of fertilizer includes: compost, rotted manure, infusions of mullein, horse manure, bird droppings, weeds or just nettles, as well as green manure. The advantage of organics in natural origin allows you to grow raspberries without chemicals. There are downsides. In particular, it is impossible to determine exact dosage. Even the same fertilizer, for example, compost, differs in the set of nutrients and their concentration in different owners. Organic matter enriches the earth with potassium, phosphorus, and microelements in different proportions, but most of all it contains nitrogen. These fertilizers, as well as mineral ones, can overfeed raspberries, cause fattening and burn the roots.

Too high a concentration of nitrogen fertilizers can cause burns to the roots and the bushes will dry out.

She once burned all her tomatoes with bird droppings. We kept chickens, collected the droppings, bred them as I liked, and watered them. I thought: what harm can there be from one’s own organic matter? I saw the damage within a few hours. The leaves on the tomatoes turned yellow and then dried out along with the stems. Since then I don’t even trust the instructions on the packages. First I try the infusion on weeds or one plant. If there are no burns, I feed it.

There are time-tested standards that gardeners apply to raspberries and get good results. You again need to choose one fertilizer:

  • Humus is manure that has lain on the site for a year or more. Scatter 1 bucket per 1 m² and mix with soil. Fresh manure is absolutely not suitable for these purposes. IN warm time years it rots, while releasing large quantities heat, can burn the roots, in addition, attracts pests living in the ground, for example, mole crickets, beetles, etc.
  • Infusion of mullein or horse manure. Fill the bucket 1/3 full with organic matter, add water to the top, cover with a lid, and place in a warm place to ferment. Open and stir daily. After 5–7 days, dilute the slurry with water 1:10 and pour over the raspberries - 1 bucket per 1 m².
  • The infusion of bird droppings is made like the previous one, but dilute the fermented mass 1:20. The watering rate is the same.
  • Infusion of weeds or nettles. Take only the succulent parts of the plants, chop them, fill the container with the raw materials and fill them with water. Leave to ferment, stir occasionally. After 7–10 days, dilute the mixture with water 1:5 and pour over the raspberries at the rate of a bucket per square meter.
  • Green manure can completely free you from feeding. In spring, sow legumes between the rows: lupine, clover, peas. These plants are capable of attracting nitrogen to the upper layers of the soil, and introducing their green mass into the soil is equated to fertilizing with humus or manure. When buds appear on the green manure, mow them and place them in the rows. They will begin to rot and enrich the soil with macro- and microfertilizers.

Remember one more rule: after applying any liquid fertilizer, water the soil with clean water. Wash the leaves too if the solution gets on them.

Recipes for infusions of mullein, horse manure and litter are only suitable for fresh organic matter that you collected yourself from poultry or livestock. Use store-bought fertilizers (horse humus, dry bird droppings, etc.) as indicated on their packaging.

Video: recipe for “green” fertilizer (herbal infusion)

Organomineral nutrition of raspberries

This includes two categories of fertilizers:

  1. Purchased ready-made mixtures for berry crops: Gumi-Omi, Fertika, Clean Sheet and others. Study the composition carefully. Do not forget that in spring the predominant element should be nitrogen, that is, it should be contained in higher concentrations than other elements. It is advisable to buy a special fertilizer marked on the package “Spring” or “Spring”. Typically, store-bought mixtures consist of humus (humus, compost) mixed with mineral fertilizers and contain: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper and others healthy raspberries substances.
  2. Your own recipes, that is, you can add both organic matter and mineral fertilizers at the same time, but the dosage must be halved, for example: 10 g of urea and half a bucket of humus per 1 m² or dilute the mullein infusion not 10 but 20 times and add solution of 5–7 g of ammonium nitrate. Such combinations are necessary when there is little organic matter, but you also want to add a minimum of chemicals.

Manufacturers often indicate on the fertilizer package what season it is intended for.

Feeding raspberries by leaves

Foliar feeding is ambulance raspberries Nutrients are immediately absorbed into the leaves; there is no need to wait for the roots to pick them up from the ground and send them with juices to all parts of the bush. But you can’t limit yourself to foliar feeding only, because they act locally. The basis of a plant is its roots and stems, and the nutrition that falls on the leaves will not be enough for them.
Situations when foliar feeding is needed:

  • You are late in applying fertilizer to the roots, the bushes look depressed, they are not growing well, you urgently need to support the plant.
  • The ground is flooded; adding liquid fertilizer will only make the situation worse.
  • Raspberries have damaged roots (by diseases, pests, deep loosening, careless removal of shoots, etc.).
  • The clay soil is too dense; the nutrient solution does not penetrate through it to the roots, or only partially.
  • The soil is acidic, macro- and microelements form compounds that raspberries cannot absorb.

Foliar feeding is an ambulance for raspberries; nutrition is supplied directly to the leaves

For foliar feeding, you can use the herb infusion already mentioned above, diluted with water 1:5. Before use, you need to strain it so that the sprayer or watering can strainer does not clog. You can also spray with a solution of mineral fertilizer, but in a lower concentration than for root feeding. For a bucket of water take:

  • 1 tbsp. l. urea or ammonium nitrate;
  • 1–1.5 tbsp. l. nitraamofoski.

The consumption of the solution will also be less; it is enough to wet all the leaves well. When you buy fertilizers, look for information in the instructions: whether it can also be used for foliar feeding. Most modern complex mixtures have a universal purpose.

Video: why foliar feeding is needed, how to do it

In addition, manufacturers create special sets of microelements, which are called “vitamins” for plants, anti-stress drugs or growth stimulants (Epin, Novosil, Energen, etc.). However, they do not contain nitrogen and cannot feed raspberries. Growth stimulants can only support plants in extreme situations (frost, drought, temperature changes), they strengthen its immunity, help recover from diseases, accelerate flowering and ripening, but without basic feeding their effect will be negligible.

Fertilizing raspberries with ash

Ash contains almost all the elements of the periodic table, but it does not contain nitrogen, which means that it cannot become the main spring feeding, but serves only as an additional, but very useful one. Wood ash:

  • fights fungal diseases in the soil;
  • repels and even destroys many pests;
  • improves the structure of the soil, making it loose;
  • shifts the acidity of the soil towards alkaline, comfortable for raspberries.

You should only use fresh ash or one that has been stored since last year in a dry place under a lid. If she has been in the rain or in conditions high humidity been stored for several years, then nutrients there is little left in it, but alkaline reaction absolutely not.

Collect ash from the fire as soon as it cools down and store it in a closed container.

There was a plastic barrel filled with ash in our barn; the lid was not closed. It was stored there for about 5 years. Last spring I remembered this reserve and decided to put it to use. I collected and dusted radishes in a sieve, populated cruciferous flea beetle. There was no result, insects continued to destroy my plantings. Of course, one could decide that nothing can kill modern pests, and ash no longer affects them. But I like to get to the bottom of the real reasons. I decided to test the ash with litmus paper. I diluted it with water to the dirt and lowered the litmus. Its color did not change, that is, my ash no longer represented anything valuable and did not have an alkaline reaction. It could not injure any fleas, nor could it reduce the acidity of the soil.

For comparison, I tested fresh ash from sauna stove. Heaven and earth: the litmus test instantly turned blue. Therefore, do not listen to those who say that ash does not help them. They simply do not know how to store and use it.

The recipe for ash fertilizer is very simple: pour a glass of ash into a bucket of water, mix and, before the suspensions settle, pour under the raspberries - 10 liters per 1 m². Another option: sprinkle a glass of ash evenly over the same area and mix with top layer land. Do this fertilizing before watering or rain.

Video: about the benefits of ash for plants

Do not add ash immediately after nitrogen fertilizing or along with it, and do not add it to organic infusions. Nitrogen and alkali form volatile compound- ammonia. Some of the nitrogen will simply evaporate without ever reaching the raspberries, and the ash will lose its ability to deoxidize the soil. Give ash fertilizer to raspberries 1-2 weeks after nitrogen fertilizer.

Spring feeding of raspberries is a very responsible and necessary event. It is enough to apply one basic fertilizing at the beginning of spring. nitrogen fertilizer(mineral or organic) and after it additional - microelements (growth stimulants, ash). IN in case of emergency will help foliar feeding. Be sure to follow the instructions and use proven recipes. Any initiative can lead to disastrous results.

Incredibly important in caring for raspberries in the fall is autumn feeding after harvesting. As you know, this berry plant is very responsive to fertilizer, so we can say with confidence that in order for the raspberry bush to grow and bear fruit properly next season, you should put your hands on saturating it with nutrients this year. About why and when to feed raspberries, as well as what fertilizers are best to use after harvesting, about the most suitable options and combinations, we will tell you in our article.

Why and when to feed raspberries after fruiting or in the fall

The purpose of feeding raspberries in the autumn is to thoroughly prepare them for winter, in other words, so that the bush can regain its strength and easily endure winter frosts, and most importantly, it can lay flower buds well for the next year and, as a result, produce a bountiful harvest.

If fruiting berry bush was quite intense and plentiful, the raspberries spent all their strength (all the nutrients were “sucked” out of the soil), which means that they must be restored so that next season the bushes will start growing again. active growth and fruiting.

Worth knowing! The end of fruiting and harvesting of raspberries, as a rule, occurs at the end of summer (sometimes even in the middle), but such fertilizing is usually called autumn, because fertilizers are still applied after some time, that is, closer to autumn, for example, in Middle lane(Moscow region) - this is August-September.

Interesting! If you have remontant raspberries that bear fruit twice, then you will definitely fertilize them in the fall, in September-October.

How to feed raspberries in the fall or what fertilizers to apply to the bushes after harvesting

During the period after fruiting, raspberries require phosphorus and potassium, since these fertilizers are responsible for the growth and strengthening of the root system of the shrub, namely its resistance in winter (frost resistance) and immunity to various diseases.

Before you deposit autumn feeding under raspberry bushes, the tree trunk circle should be cleared of weeds, old mulch and loosened, but not too deep (5-10 cm), since the root system of the bush is quite close to the surface.


Advice! Any granular mineral fertilizer(especially superphosphate) better pre-dissolve in a separate container in hot water(but not in boiling water), since granules tend to dissolve in cold water quite bad and slow.

In the end you need to choose 1 phosphate fertilizer, 1 potassium fertilizer, and optional you can additionally contribute manure or compost (for digging, or mulch).

As a phosphorus fertilizer for raspberries in the fall, you can use:

Important! For 1 sq. meter, as a rule, one, maximum two raspberry bushes are placed.


Note! You should not apply phosphorus chloride fertilizers to raspberries.(For example, diammophos, because it contains a lot of nitrogen, and potassium metaphosphate chlorosis.

As a potassium fertilizer for raspberries in the fall, you can use:


Important! In no case Potassium chloride fertilizers should not be applied to raspberries(For example, potassium chloride or potassium salt). Such fertilizing can cause plant disease chlorosis.


Note! If you cook yourself wood ash, then it is worth knowing that in the ash, which was obtained from hardwood trees, contained more potassium, and from conifers - phosphorus. When buying a ready-made package of ash in a store, you need to familiarize yourself with its composition, which should be presented on the label.

Additionally, after fruiting (recommended once every 3-4 years), classic organic fertilizer of animal origin is applied to the raspberries, namely chicken droppings(in granules), which can be either scattered dry (1 kg per 1 sq. meter) or watered between the rows with a solution prepared in a ratio of 1 to 15 or even 20.

Worth considering! In such organic fertilizer, like chicken manure, contains nitrogen, which means that the bush must have time to process it, so this fertilizing should be done after fruiting (at the end of summer), but not in the fall, or especially late autumn (for remontant raspberries).

Also in the fall you can add for digging rotted cow and horse manure (or compost), somewhere 5-10 kg per 1 square meter.

It will be just great if you plant raspberries between the rows in the summer green manure (mustard, vetch, clover), and after harvesting (in the summer) or closer to autumn, mow them, embed them in the soil and dig them up, thereby receiving excellent delayed fertilizing, which will play its role next spring.

By the way! There is a special phosphorus-potassium complex mineral fertilizer, which is sold labeled “autumn”.

Video: fertilizer for raspberry beds in autumn

Additional autumn activities for caring for raspberries and preparing them for winter

In addition to applying nutritious fertilizers to the raspberry bush, you will also need to carry out the following important autumn events on preparing the bush for winter and the next season.