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Fast germination of parsley. So that the parsley sprouts faster. Parsley does not sprout or germinates poorly: why does this happen?

Faith
Why doesn't parsley sprout?

Parsley is one of the favorite crops planted in country gardens and personal plots. But many beginning gardeners are faced with the fact that it sprouts very poorly or does not sprout at all. Of course, it is very important to find out the reason why this happens and what to do in the end in order to still get a harvest.

Parsley does not sprout or germinates poorly: why does this happen?

This culture generally takes quite a long time to sprout. If parsley is planted in the ground with dry seeds, it will take at least 2-3 weeks for them to germinate. This happens because the seeds of this plant contain a lot of essential oils that repel water. It just takes time for them to be saturated with water and hatch. Among the main reasons why parsley does not sprout, two can be identified:

  • incorrect agricultural technology when growing this crop;
  • the seeds of the plant are old or unsuitable and have lost their viability.

Advice. When purchasing seeds, you should always pay attention to their expiration dates. In addition, it is better to use products from trusted companies that produce high-quality seed material.

What can I do to ensure that parsley sprouts well?

To get a harvest of parsley, you must first plant it correctly. You can sow the crop quite early, as soon as the snow melts and the earth warms up enough. It is necessary to prepare the bed and make furrows for planting seeds. They are planted in moist soil and not too deep - up to 1.5-2 cm in light soils and no more than 1-1.5 cm in heavy soils. After sowing, sprinkle the furrow with earth and lightly compact it, otherwise the seeds in the loose soil may go deep into the bed during the first watering, and it will then be difficult for the sprouts to break through to the top.

Before germination, the soil must be kept moist; in dry soil, the seeds may not sprout at all. For better preservation moisture in the garden after planting the seeds, you can use a covering material.

Parsley shoots

There are also various methods treating seeds before planting in the ground to speed up their germination:

  • pour parsley seeds hot water about 40-50 degrees and hold them in it for a while. Then rinse the seeds and soak overnight in fresh water. In the morning, dry them and sow;
  • place the seeds in a fabric bag and bury it in damp soil for several days. After this time, the swollen seeds can be planted in the garden bed;
  • Soak the seeds for 15-20 minutes in vodka, then rinse well, dry and sow.

Attention! Parsley seeds should not be kept in solutions containing alcohol for more than 15-20 minutes, otherwise they may die.

In order for parsley to sprout well, you need to plant the seeds correctly and be sure to keep the soil in the garden bed moist until they germinate. If desired, you can speed up the emergence of crop seedlings by properly treating the seeds before planting them in the ground.

How to grow parsley: video

Sofya GusevaGarden, Seeds

I have already touched on the topic of preparing seeds for planting. But today I want to look at it from the other side. How to speed up seed germination?

Do we need to speed them up? Let's talk about what needs to be done to

Increase seed germination energy

Fast-germinating seeds do not need additional stimulation. For example: tomatoes, cucumbers, peas, beans - I never germinate in advance.

I sow dry in beds or for seedlings, a few days and the first shoots are already there. But there are such “long-thinking” seeds that you want to push them so that they germinate faster. For example, peppers and eggplants - if you don’t help them - they can lie in the ground for 2 weeks and not sprout later. We have to sow again, and time goes by, spring is coming - we start to get nervous - the seedlings will be late, the harvest will be late.

Or carrots, parsley, dill, nigella - they take a long time to germinate, and in the spring you have to come up with various tricks to retain moisture in the ground and prevent the soil from cracking before the shoots appear. Here someone covers it with something, waters it, covers it again - there is a lot of hassle. Therefore, such difficult-to-grow plants need to be helped. And you will have less trouble for yourself.

32 TV How to speed up the germination of carrot and parsley seeds

Ways to speed up germination

  1. I think everyone knows about the wet napkin in which the seeds are wrapped. Place the dishes with wet seeds in the refrigerator for several days (they undergo hardening and the stage of spring cold, as it were). Then they are transferred to the room, into the warmth and... spring has come!.. the seeds are in a hurry to germinate. I do this with the seeds of peppers, eggplants and annual flowers before sowing them for seedlings. For dill, parsley, carrots, your own way. The essential oils contained in the seeds do not allow moisture to quickly penetrate inside the seed, so they sprout dry after 20-25 days. To speed up germination, they are washed in warm water and then soaked for a day to swell. You can add 1 tbsp to the water. spoon wood ash(per 1 liter). Or some kind of universal fertilizer, although I try not to use them myself. An interesting method specifically for carrots, parsley, and dill. The dry seeds are poured into a cloth bag (you can even borrow a sock from your husband!) and buried in the garden in damp, unheated soil to the depth of a spade bayonet. This is done about two weeks before sowing (don’t lose the treasure location!). Before sowing, the seeds are taken out, laid out on paper, dried until scattered and sown. Seeds prepared in this way germinate in 4-5 days. Another method that was told by my readers from the Vologda region. I think it will work for all seeds.

“We do this - we took a plastic bucket with a lid. By internal diameter We made a frame out of wire and covered it with material (old tights). Pour hot water into the bucket so that the material does not flood.

Pour in the seeds and cover with a lid. Place in a warm place. The rate of seed germination increases significantly.

You can add Krepysh or any similar product to the water.” I’ll add on my own that it’s better to do this at night and sow it the next day. If I'm wrong, please clarify this point.

SOAKING SEEDS IN WATER

The operation that gardeners most often use is soaking the seeds until they are completely swollen, which speeds up the emergence of seedlings. This is the most affordable way pre-sowing preparation of seeds for sowing. To moisten the seeds of a number of other crops, they are poured thin layer to the bottom of any dish, then fill it with water, the amount of which depends on the specific crop.

Water is poured in two doses so that it is better absorbed. The water temperature for seeds of heat-loving crops is 20...25°C, for others from 15 to 20°C. The duration of seed soaking varies.

For quickly germinating seeds of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, radishes, and radishes, the soaking time should be 12 hours; for tomatoes, lettuce and beets from 24 to 36 hours; for carrots, parsley, chives, chard, celery, parsnips, asparagus, sorrel - about 2 days; and for peas and beans, only 4-5 hours. The water must be changed every 4 hours, while carefully mixing the seeds. You can not place the seeds on a plate, but put them in a gauze bag and put them in water. During soaking, the seeds should only swell.

Stop soaking when 1-1.5% of the seeds have sprouted. Subsequently, the swollen seeds are sown in moderately moist soil.

In dry soil, the sprouts that quickly form from soaked seeds can dry out, and in heavily moistened soil they can die from lack of oxygen. Another option for using soaked seeds is their further germination under the same conditions as when determining their germination. When sowing with soaked seeds, seedlings can be obtained 2-3 days earlier than when sowing with dry seeds. Gardeners have long noticed that seeds soaked in snow water germinate faster and produce a better harvest.

And in the absence of snow water, you can use melt water from the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. Some gardeners soak seeds in magnetized water.

SEED GERMINATION

The soaked seeds of many vegetables are also germinated. This technique allows you to speed up the emergence of seedlings by 5-7 days. To germinate, seeds are laid out in a thin layer on a dampened cloth in a warm room with a temperature of 15...25°C and covered with a damp cloth on top.

Seeds of cucumbers and cabbage germinate for 1-3 days, tomatoes and beets for 3-4 days, carrots for 5-6 days. So that the water does not evaporate and optimal humidity is constantly maintained, the saucer is covered with glass or placed in plastic bag.

However, excess water is also harmful, since it impedes the supply of oxygen necessary for seed germination. Seeds must be turned regularly but carefully to ensure air access.

Germination is completed when most of the seeds have white sprouts. Germination of nigella onion seeds can be accelerated if they are kept for 8 hours in water heated to 40°C. To keep it from cooling down, hot water is periodically added to it. When germinating seeds, it is important not to miss the moment of pipping, since at the same time the rapid development of the plant root occurs.

This root is very fragile, delicate and therefore easily damaged. It is very difficult to sow such seeds. When sprouts appear on most seeds, they are planted in moist, well-cultivated and fairly warm soil.

If sowing of already sprouted seeds is delayed, they should be kept in the lower part of the refrigerator at a temperature of 3...4°C until use. Before sowing, small carrot seeds are usually slightly dried and mixed with sand for more uniform sowing.

TREATMENT OF SEEDS WITH MICROELEMENTS

IN last years In order to speed up the ripening of vegetables, pre-sowing seeds are soaked in solutions of microelements or growth stimulants. There are universal sets of microelements on sale, which include boron, iron, magnesium, copper, molybdenum, cobalt, zinc. These high-quality and non-toxic microfertilizers are good and convenient for seed treatment.

Of course, in their absence, you can use old, time-tested potassium permanganate, boric acid etc. To do this, heated, disinfected and washed seeds are soaked in a solution of microelements. This treatment is especially effective for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and peas.

The concentration of the solution and the duration of treatment are different and depend on the culture, as is usually indicated in the instructions for use of the drug. Microfertilizers are dissolved in warm (40 °C) water. The seeds are immersed in a solution at a temperature of 20...22°C.

After soaking, the seeds, without washing, are dried until they flow and sown. Experienced gardeners use the long-proven, effective method soaking seeds in an infusion of wood ash. For this, 2 tbsp. l. The ashes are placed in a liter jar, filled with warm water and left for 2 days, stirring occasionally. Then the resulting infusion is carefully drained, the seeds are immersed in it in a gauze bag and the seeds of onions and carrots are kept in it for 8-10 hours, and for other crops - 4-5 hours. Remember!

When processing seeds, only seeds of one variety can be immersed in each jar to prevent contamination of the seeds through the solution, especially if the seeds are not warmed up and not disinfected. It is effective to soak seeds in a solution of complex fertilizers such as Kemira-universal or mortar, in as a last resort, nitrophosphates.

To do this, dilute 1 tsp in 1 liter of water. Fertilizers and seeds are kept in this solution for 12 hours. Many gardeners treat vegetable seeds with a solution of aloe, Kalanchoe juice or green mass of marina root. And this is no coincidence.

After all, the juice from the leaves of aloe and Kalanchoe stimulates growth, and the juice from the green mass of marina root has strong antibacterial activity. From modern drugs very often for these purposes, gardeners use reliable potassium humate, Novosil, Epin-extra or Epin, Zircon, etc. To grow seedlings, seeds of eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, nigella onions, zucchini, etc. are sprinkled into gauze bags and immerse for 24 hours in a Zircon solution (4 drops per glass of lukewarm boiled water). Then the seeds, without washing, are sown in prepared containers with soil, covered with film and placed in a warm, dark place.

When seedlings appear, the boxes with seedlings are exposed to light, and when the first true leaf appears, the plants are sprayed with the growth regulator Epin-extra (3 drops per 0.5 cup of boiled water). This drug stimulates the growth of the above-ground part, helps plants adapt to unfavorable growing conditions in an apartment - lack of light, cold, overdried or overly moist soil, etc. At the same time, the seedlings do not stretch, become strong and, most importantly, invulnerable to weather and diseases .Seeds of “sprinter” vegetables (lettuce, salad mustard, Chinese cabbage, radishes, etc.) do not need to be soaked at all.

It is enough to water the furrows with Zircon before and after sowing (1 ampoule per 10 liters of water). But even the most effective biostimulator will be able to give the promised increase in yield of 25-30% only if you provide normal care for the plants. Therefore, in addition to seed treatment, it is necessary to provide the plants with timely sowing, thinning, fertilizing, watering, weeding, loosening and much more.

BARBING SEEDS

Very effective method is bubbling of seeds, i.e. soaking them in water saturated with air. This technique requires less time for seedlings to emerge than the usual soaking of seeds in water.

At home, the easiest way to bubble is to use a regular microcompressor from a children's aquarium. To do this, the seeds are placed in a jar of water at a temperature of 20 ° C and air is supplied with a hose with a spray tip.

In this case, it is very important that during processing the air evenly penetrates from bottom to top the entire thickness of the water in which the seeds are bubbled. Seeds must mix very well in water with air currents. The essence of bubbling is that oxygen serves as a stimulant for the start of biochemical processes in the seeds.

This reduces the effect of substances in the seeds that retard germination, sharply increases the activity of enzymes, ensures their uniform germination, increases field germination, and in some crops accelerates ripening. It can be combined with seed treatment in a solution of microelements.

The duration of seed bubbling depends on the crop. So, optimal time bubbling of pea seeds is 6 hours; radishes and lettuce – 12 hours; tomatoes and beets – 12-18 hours; for dill, parsley, celery and cucumbers – 18 hours; carrots, spinach and onions – 18-24 hours; pepper – 30 hours; watermelon - 48 hours. The best result from bubbling is obtained when processing the seeds of carrots, parsley and onions. If you use oxygen instead of air for bubbling, then the total duration of the procedure must be reduced by 2 hours. If the seeds begin to hatch before the estimated time, then bubbling stop.

At the end of the procedure, the seeds are dried until they flow in a draft, but not in the sun, and sown. At the same time, we should not forget that when sowing in excessively moist or poorly supplied soil, the germination of bubbled seeds may decrease. Bubbling seeds, which are difficult to germinate under normal conditions, accelerates the emergence of seedlings by 6-7 days. So, if carrot seeds that have not been bubbling germinate in field conditions on the 15-18th day, then those treated with oxygen are 6-7 days faster.

HARDENING OF SEEDS

Hardening of vegetable seeds increases their cold resistance and endurance to sudden temperature fluctuations and adverse weather conditions. This procedure is especially necessary for seeds of heat-loving crops (peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.).

In addition, seedlings from hardened seeds appear much earlier. To do this, heated, disinfected seeds, soaked in water or treated with a solution of one of the microelements, are treated at low temperatures. This technique can only be used for swollen but not sprouted seeds, because they can rot. Basically, two hardening methods are used:

  • short-term freezing of swollen seeds; keeping swollen seeds at variable (positive and negative) temperatures.

A simpler, but rather harsh method is to briefly freeze the swollen seeds. To do this, the swollen tomato seeds are kept for about 3 days in a refrigerator or icebox at a temperature of –1 to –4 °C, and the seeds of eggplant and pepper – from 0 to –2 °C, or the seeds are buried in the snow.

In this case, it is necessary to carefully monitor the temperature in the refrigerator so as not to freeze the seeds. In the second method, the swollen seeds are kept for 12 hours at a positive temperature of about 20 ° C and a low temperature (from 0 to –2 ° C), constantly alternating them. Moreover, the cooling temperature depends on the crop.

Thus, tomato seeds are kept at a temperature of –2…1°C; peppers and cucumbers – from –1 to 0°C, etc. Cucumber seeds are treated at these temperatures for up to 5 days, tomatoes – up to 8 days. The seeds should not be allowed to dry out during hardening, so the bags should be lightly sprayed with water approximately once every two days.

Upon completion of hardening, the seeds are dried (not in the sun) until they flow and are immediately sown. When hardening seeds, especially in a harsh mode, it must be taken into account that it can affect the viability of the seeds. If your seeds had reduced viability, then after hardening they may significantly lose their viability.

But the seeds that survive in low temperatures will then give rise to more viable plants that are resistant to low temperatures, better responsive to adverse weather conditions, and less susceptible to diseases. These plants form earlier female flowers, will bear fruit earlier and more.

Therefore, in order to avoid sparse seedlings, when sowing hardened seeds, the seeding rate must be increased slightly. Hardened seeds can be sown several days earlier than usual, without fear of a short-term drop in temperature. This also applies to seedlings grown from hardened seeds.

But you need to know that to obtain hardened seedlings, hardening the seeds alone is not enough. To obtain hardened seedlings, they must be hardened until the very moment they are planted in open ground.

VERNALIZATION (LONG-TERM COOLING) OF SEEDS

This is also one of the ways to prepare seeds of cold-resistant vegetable crops that have a very long germination period - carrots, cabbage, parsley, onions, beets, etc. Vernalization ensures an earlier harvest of vegetables and increases their resistance to cold and other unfavorable factors external environment, promotes better survival of plants during transplantation into open ground. Vernalization of seeds consists of three sequential operations - soaking, germination and exposure to low temperatures. It is better to use snow water for soaking.

To carry out vernalization of seeds, they are first soaked in water at a temperature of 18...20°C, and then placed in the refrigerator or buried in snow. When the seeds dry, they are sprayed with water.

The timing and temperature of seed cooling depend on the characteristics vegetable crop and sowing time. Cabbage seeds are cooled at a temperature of 0 to + 3 ° C for 10-15 days; onions, parsley and carrots from –1 to +1°C for 12-15 days. If necessary, the duration of seed cooling for these crops can be increased by 3-5 days. And beet seeds are also chilled at a temperature of –1 to +1°C, but no more than 8-10 days, otherwise some of the plants may bolt in the future. Afterwards At the end of cooling, the seeds should only sprout, but not have long sprouts.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried for flowability. If the conditions for sowing occur ahead of schedule, then vernalization is completed and the seeds are sown in wet soil. Such treatment of seeds at low temperatures for a long time promotes the transition of the embryo from a dormant state to a period of active development and has big influence both on germination and quality development of the plant.

Growing parsley, its beneficial properties and varieties

01/01/2014by Natalya | 2 comments Parsley is a biennial plant that no garden can do without. Growing parsley often causes some difficulties for gardeners - the seeds germinate poorly or not at all.

Root and leaf varieties are grown in our gardens. Beneficial features parsley, a pleasant aroma that improves the taste of any dish, made it an integral attribute of any garden.

How to prepare parsley seeds for sowing, how to speed up or increase their germination? Parsley belongs to the Umbelliferae family along with dill, caraway, angelica, lovage, cilantro, carrots, parsnips, celery, and coriander. All of them have hollow stems and umbrella-shaped inflorescences.

The botanical name is Petroselinum crispum. It is difficult to say which parsley is more popular among gardeners. Leaf parsley can be ordinary, with smooth, shiny leaves or curly, with matte leaves. corrugated leaves.

They differ from each other in leaf shape. Common parsley usually has a stronger flavor than curly leaf parsley. But curly parsley is very beautiful, elegant - it will decorate any dish.

  • Parsley varieties

Beneficial features

Parsley is used in soups, sauces, salads; its use reduces the need for salt. It is a low saturated fat, very low cholesterol food.

It is also a good source of protein, vitamin E (alpha tocopherol), thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B6, pantothenic acid, and is also a very good source dietary fiber. Parsley contains a considerable amount of vitamin C. It is also rich in vitamin A - its effect on vision and on reducing the risk of atherosclerosis and diabetes is well known.

Carotene, calcium, mineral salts of iron, phosphorus, minerals - this is just the main list of useful components of this aromatic plant. And the presence of aroma, its strength and pleasant taste depend on the percentage of essential oils. Root vegetables and parsley leaves are used for food.

Preparing parsley seeds for sowing, increasing and accelerating their germination

Parsley seeds take a long time to germinate – 15-20 days. This is due to the fact that the seeds are covered with essential oils, which prevent germination; they prevent the seed shell from getting wet and do not allow moisture inside.

This feature must be taken into account when preparing parsley seeds for sowing. After sowing, many gardeners cover the beds with film or spunbond to keep the soil moist. Do not remove the shelter until the sprouts appear from the ground.

If you are sure that you can keep the beds moist throughout the 15-20 days required for germination, then soaking parsley seeds before sowing is not necessary. But there are ways to germinate seeds that increase parsley germination, accelerating the emergence of seedlings. You can speed up germination by soaking the seeds in water overnight before planting.

Water, by the way, practically does not dissolve the oil on the surface of the seeds. Therefore, before soaking, you should pour hot water (not boiling water) over the parsley seeds to wash off essential oils from their surface. Another way. Very simple.

Need to soak the seeds in vodka, since essential oils dissolve in alcohol-containing solutions. I pour a little 40-degree water into the bottom of the saucer. Then I sprinkle the seeds on a small piece of wide gauze bandage.

I dip parsley seeds on gauze in vodka and leave for 15-20 minutes. You can't do it any longer - you might burn the seeds. Then I lift the bandage with the seeds and rinse it under running water. It is necessary to rinse. Then I dry the seeds.

That's it - the parsley seeds are ready for sowing. This method of seed treatment allows them to germinate twice as fast. The shoots are friendly and strong. There is another way fast germination .

Many of us grow herbs for the table on a window or balcony. It is very comfortable. Parsley seeds germinate very slowly, but there is one way to “make” them germinate very quickly.

Prepare a container with soil, moisten it, sprinkle the soil quicklime three times every 10-15 minutes. Sow parsley seeds pre-soaked in milk. The seeds will sprout in three hours.

The room should be warm, not lower than 20°C.

Growing parsley

Before sowing parsley seeds, you should dig up or loosen the soil well. Before cultivating the soil, it will not be superfluous to fill it with organic fertilizers. The timing of sowing depends on the condition of the soil. You don't have to wait for warm weather.

As soon as the snow has melted, you can sow the seeds. Optimal temperature for seed germination - +1 - +5C. In Kuban you can sow during the “February windows”. IN middle lane Russia - in April, after the snow melts.

That is, parsley is a cold-resistant plant. The seedlings easily tolerate light frosts and overwinter well under a good layer of snow. Spring is a great time to sow parsley seeds, but you can sow it any time of the year - spring, summer and fall.

The most important thing is to keep the soil moist until germination. Seeds can be sown in late autumn, before winter.

In this case, the sowing time must be chosen so that the seeds do not have time to germinate before the onset of frost - young seedlings will not tolerate the cold and will die. The best predecessors of parsley are onions, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Sow the seeds shallowly, to a depth of no more than 1-1.5 cm.

It is better to sprinkle the seeds with humus on top. During the entire growth period, it is necessary to loosen the soil at least 3-4 times and feed 1-2 times. If the seedlings are too dense, the crops need to be thinned out. There should be at least 3-5 cm between plants.

Fertilizing should begin only after 2-3 true leaves appear. Feed full mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. The soil should not be allowed to dry out.

Parsley does not like weeds; they greatly inhibit its growth. During the entire season, 3-4 loosenings, 1-2 fertilizing and watering are carried out. With dense shoots, the plants are thinned out, leaving 3-5 cm between them.

Fertilizing begins when the plants have 2-3 true leaves, and then fertilizing is done after cutting off the leaves. To obtain a large yield of green mass, parsley is fed with complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. The leaves are cut as low as possible.

Do not cut too many leaves from one plant at a time - no more than a third, otherwise the bush will not be able to recover quickly or will die altogether. It is worth periodically removing the stem on which the inflorescence forms (unless you want to collect the seeds) because new leaves will not grow on the old stem.

New leaves usually grow with outside sockets By the way, in curly varieties, new leaves grow from the center of the rosette. Tomatoes and asparagus in your area will grow better if parsley grows nearby. Plant it near roses - their aroma will intensify.

Storing parsley

The best storage method is freezing. It retains taste and color well when frozen. If you have to collect it for storage after rain, you should rinse the branches well, dry them by wrapping them kitchen towel.

Separate the leaves from the stems. Don't throw away the stems; you can freeze them too. They are great for enhancing the taste of soups. Place the parsley stalks into the soup shortly before the end of cooking, tied into bunches.

Then, after 5-7 minutes, they can be removed from the soup. The leaves are cut finely or into cutting board knife, or scissors, or food processor. Place the chopped parsley leaves in a plastic bag or box, seal the container tightly, and place in the freezer. When you need greens, just cut them off. required quantity from a large frozen piece - no need to defrost, it cuts easily.

Parsley varieties

Root varieties

"Sugar"– early ripening high-yielding variety, growing season 75-85 days. Average weight one root vegetable – 25-60 g. The taste is high. The root crop is conical in shape, pointed, its length is 20-30 cm, the diameter of the upper part is up to 6.5 cm.

The leaf rosette of parsley is powerful, spreading, consists of 20-40 leaves. Leaf color is dark green. The leaves are shiny above and matte below.

"Harvest"– mid-season, growing season 84-102 days. The average weight of one plant is 100-115 g, root crop 25-45 g. The taste is good. The keeping quality of root crops during storage is good.

The roots are conical, pointed, 20-30 cm long, the diameter of the upper part is from 4 to 7 cm. The surface of the root is grayish-whitish, the core is light yellow. The leaf rosette of parsley is semi-spreading, consisting of 11-20 leaves.

The leaves are dark green, shiny above, matte below. "Shepherdess"– late-ripening high-yielding variety of parsley. The rosette is widely spreading with a large number of leaves - from 20 to 40. The root is conical in shape with a sharp end 20-30 cm long.

The pulp of the root vegetable is white, juicy, sweet. The weight of one plant with leaves and roots is 80-100 g. The root crop weighs from 30 to 70 g. The entire plant is used as food.

Leaf varieties of parsley

"Ordinary leaf"– forms a large rosette with a large number of dark green, flat leaves with strong stems. Compared to root varieties, it produces earlier and high yield leaves.

"Green Crystal"– a late-ripening, high-yielding variety for universal use, with intensive growth of green mass. Distinctive features– large aromatic leaves that grow quickly after cutting. The rosette of leaves is slightly raised.

Parsley leaves are large, green, fragrant, and grow back well after cutting. The Green Crystal variety is best suited for freezing. Good fresh or dried, not bad for canning.

"Delicate aroma"- an early ripening variety with smooth, shiny, bright green leaves. Grows back intensively after cutting. With its taste and truly delicate aroma, it not only stimulates the appetite, but also decorates the festive and everyday table.

"Morning freshness"– an early ripening leaf variety (the period from full germination to harvesting of greenery is 70-75 days). The leaf rosette is large, slightly spreading. Medium sized leaves dark green, very fragrant. Parsley leaves grow back well after cutting.

Cut greens remain fresh for several days and are widely used in cooking. "Festival"– early-ripening leaf variety (55-60 days from germination to technical ripeness). The rosette is highly developed, the number of leaves is from 30 to 60.

The leaves are dark green, heavily lobed, very fragrant, and grow back well after cutting. Parsley leaves have a pleasant smell and taste due to the presence of essential oils.

For fresh consumption, the leaves begin to be cut when they reach a height of 10-12 cm; for drying, the leaves are cut off during budding. "Bogatyr"– a late-ripening leafy variety (60-65 days from germination to harvesting) a variety for growing in open and protected ground.

The rosette is large, height 25-40 cm, up to 25 leaves are formed. Parsley leaves are dark green, with large lobes, very fragrant, and grow back well after cutting. The rhizomes overwinter in the soil and quickly produce fresh greens in early spring.

Curly varieties of parsley

"Slavyanskaya"– a relatively compact variety with medium-long stems. Has a wonderful aroma. Capable of carrying low temperatures and drought.

"Mooskrause 2"– early-ripening variety (the period from germination to technical ripeness is 55-60 days). The leaf rosette is semi-spreading. The leaves are corrugated, light green, large, shiny, and have a sweet taste.

Parsley is a two-year-old herb and magnificent greens, which we are accustomed to serving with almost any dish. If you sow greens in the summer, you can harvest not only this year, but also the next season. Parsley is an unpretentious plant that does not require complex rules and care. You just need to follow some recommendations that will help you grow healthy and high-quality greens for the table. Parsley is distinguished by one feature, which is the long germination of seeds.

Therefore, we will share with you the secret of how to plant parsley so that the spicy crop will quickly sprout.

Benefits of the plant

In addition to its main purpose, parsley can also bring some benefits. Let's look at what it is.

  1. If you plant greenery around the perimeter of the garden bed, it will help against slug infestations.
  2. Due to the decorative nature of the leaves, this greenery is often sown in balcony boxes or garden flowerpots, combined with a variety of flowers.
  3. To keep the leaves fresh longer, it is recommended to put them in a vinegar solution for half an hour, diluting it half with water.
  4. Parsley is not a particularly moisture-loving plant, but if the weather is too dry, the growth of its leaves begins to slow down and they become rough. But at the same time, the leaves become more fragrant, as their supply of essential oils is replenished.
  5. When does it end summer season, you can dig up a few bushes of greenery, transplant them into pots and take them with you to your apartment. In this case, you can enjoy fresh greenery even in winter.
  6. This plant is a good helper for your health. Greens can help with viral diseases and flu. Parsley is also quite effective in combating kidney diseases. This involves using parsley root, which is boiled in milk.

Now you know how you can use this greenery and what beneficial properties it has.

For successful cultivation fragrant greens, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with a number of tips.

Accelerating seed germination

Parsley is one of the favorite plants of many Russian gardeners. It is difficult to find a garden that does not have this plant.

Parsley can be leaf, root and curly. Green seeds must be planted in open ground or as seedlings; they can even be planted on a windowsill at home. These greens will go well as a base with other salads., but most often it is used as a seasoning.

Often this greenery is grown for beauty in a flower bed. But some may experience minor difficulties when growing crops. In order for the greens to sprout quickly, several growing and planting conditions must be observed. So, let's look at how to plant parsley so that it sprouts quickly.

Growing conditions

This crop can grow in almost all types of soil, but it prefers loose, fertile soil . Parsley can grow in both sun and shade. But in order for seedlings to appear faster, it is recommended to plant the seeds in a sunny place. Despite the fact that greens do not particularly like moisture, you still need to remember to water them.

As mentioned earlier, greens will not grow well in soil after cumin, dill and carrots. If these crops grew on your site, parsley can be planted in their place, usually in the fourth year. The crop will feel best on soil where onions, cucumbers or tomatoes previously grew.

Boarding time

If we talk about seedlings, the crop can be planted as early as March or April. It is recommended to plant seeds in open ground in the warmer months; the ideal time would be early or mid-May. The period from the first shoots to mature greenery is about 80 days.

To get your first harvest, you need to have some patience. Harvesting occurs between May and October, depending on the time of planting. For example, if you planted greens in May, the harvest can be harvested at the end of July.

Successful varieties

The following varieties are considered the best varieties of parsley::

  • Morning freshness;
  • Delicate aroma;
  • Festival.

It is these varieties that are most often planted in summer cottages.

To speed up the germination process, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water for one night before planting. Thus planting material adapts to planting in the ground.

Sowing in open ground

The crop can be planted in open ground with seedlings or seeds. We will look at how to plant greens using seeds in open ground.

When the harvest appears, it must be cut off to the very roots, several bushes at a time.

Planting aromatic herb seedlings

To get parsley seedlings, you should use small greenhouses in the form of containers with boxes and a lid. Each glass must be filled with soil, watered with warm water, and about 5 green seeds should be placed in the soil.

The seeds are sprinkled with a layer of soil about 0.5 cm thick. The greenhouse is covered plastic cover or plastic film, placed in a bright room where the air temperature is constantly about 20 degrees.

It is allowed to place a mini-greenhouse on a glazed balcony. The first shoots, as a rule, will appear after 2 weeks. To speed up this process, you need to do the following. Pour dry seeds with one glass of hot tap water, cool, and do this procedure several times throughout the day. Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and plant them in the soil when they hatch.

Proper storage

Of course, it is best to consume parsley fresh. Its recommended eat immediately after cutting. But if you have a rich harvest, you can freeze it. At the same time, freezing does not in any way affect the taste, color and beneficial properties of parsley.

To freeze the leaves and stems, chop them finely and place them in a plastic bag or plastic container and put it in the freezer. When preparing soup, you just need to take it out of the freezer and add it to the dish.

Curly varieties of parsley will look quite impressive in your beds. But the best use of this green is still to use it in salads and soups. There is something extraordinary hidden in the aroma of this crop, so grow it and feel the magic of parsley. Following the above scheme and tips, you can easily grow parsley on your summer cottage and get good harvest.

Soaking is one of the preparation methods seed material parsley

The seeds are placed in slightly warmed milk, where they swell, absorb moisture and begin to “awaken” and develop more actively. Also, natural fresh milk is a natural source of biologically active components and microelements that have a beneficial effect on the growth of the green germ.

Why do you need to soak in milk? Parsley seeds have a dense shell. During soaking, it becomes thinner, and as a result, the sprout emerges easier and faster.

Milk has a certain percentage of fat content. Thanks to this, it envelops the seeds, protecting them from possible burns. For the best effect, simultaneously with soaking the seeds, you need to prepare the soil.

How fast is germination?

Parsley has a long period of seed germination. After sowing, an average of 20-25 days pass and only then the first greenery in the garden becomes noticeable. Soaking in milk and treating the soil with lime significantly reduces this period. Germination occurs much earlier: 7-10, or even 3-5 days after the prepared seeds enter the soil. The final period depends on the condition of the soil, humidity and weather conditions.

Natural product or powder: which is better?

It is better to give preference to fresh natural milk, since all fats and microelements in the required volume are stored only there. Powder (milk powder) will be of no use. When diluted with water, the product will be a low-fat product that will not protect the seeds in any way.

How to choose natural milk?

  1. Pay attention to the expiration date. Real milk can be stored for no more than a couple of days.
  2. The package should say "milk". Inscriptions " milk product” or “milk drink” are evidence that this is a powder product.
  3. Pour milk into a glass. If there are white marks on the walls that slowly flow down, this is a suitable product (such milk has fat content).

To soak parsley seeds, it is better to choose fresh or whole milk with a high percentage of fat content. Pasteurized, melted, and reconstituted from dry are not suitable for this procedure.

Step-by-step instructions on how to soak

Before the procedure, it is important to pay attention to the expiration date of the seeds. Parsley seed with expired The shelf life may not rise even with high-quality pre-treatment.

Seeds of any umbrella crops are allowed to be stored for no more than 2-3 years after collection. When purchasing seeds in a store, the expiration date is indicated on the package.

  1. Capacity. For convenience, it is recommended to take shallow dishes (plate or saucer). You can also take a small cup. Cover the top with a lid or cling film.
  2. Inspection and selection of seeds. The goal is to exclude low-quality, broken and moldy specimens. You can inspect it visually: discard all damaged seeds. You can soak it in slightly warmed water: full-bodied and healthy seeds will remain at the bottom.
  3. Duration of action (or how long to keep). Heat a small amount of fresh milk to 40 degrees and place the seeds in it. Cover the container with polyethylene and place in a dark, warm place. Leave for 10-12 hours. If you leave the seeds too long, the milk will turn sour. IN sour milk microflora changes. Even healthy parsley seeds that were in sour milk may not sprout at all.
  4. Further processing. After soaking, it is better to place the seeds on paper or parchment and dry them a little. There is no need to rinse, as water can wash away the thin protective film of milk.

Actions after the procedure: when can you plant?

While soaking the seeds, you need to simultaneously prepare the area (sprinkle with lime, dig or loosen, moisten). Plant the soaked seeds immediately after swelling: on average 1 hour after they have been removed from the milk and dried.

The seeds need to be placed in the ground, then sprinkled with a little soil and moistened. The best way in this case is to spray through a spray bottle. It is prohibited to bury seeds deeply or pour them abundantly.. This will increase the waiting time for germination: instead of 7-10 days, parsley will germinate up to 1 month.

What can be replaced?

There are many more variations for soaking parsley seeds. Below is a list of what you can replace milk with.

  • Spring or purified still water.
  • Soap solution. Prepare from laundry soap.
  • Vodka or alcohol diluted to 40 degrees.
  • Baking soda.
  • A strong infusion of chamomile or valerian. You can also use aloe juice.
  • Special bioactive preparations (Epin, Humate and others). You can purchase them in specialized stores.
  • Solution complex fertilizer(nitrophoska, ash solution).
  • Bubbling (air treatment in water, a more professional option for industrial cultivation).

So, pre-soaking parsley seeds is a guarantee of quick germination.

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Parsley is a biennial plant that no garden can do without. Growing parsley often causes some difficulties for gardeners - the seeds germinate poorly or not at all. Root and leaf varieties are grown in our gardens. The beneficial properties of parsley, its pleasant aroma that improves the taste of any dish, have made it an integral attribute of any garden. How to prepare parsley seeds for sowing, how to speed up or increase their germination? Parsley belongs to the Umbelliferae family along with dill, caraway, angelica, lovage, cilantro, carrots, parsnips, celery, and coriander. All of them have hollow stems and umbrella-shaped inflorescences. Botanical name - Petroselinum crispum.

It is difficult to say which parsley is more popular among gardeners. Leaf parsley can be ordinary, with smooth, shiny leaves, or curly, with matte corrugated leaves. They differ from each other in leaf shape. Common parsley usually has a stronger flavor than curly leaf parsley. But curly parsley is very beautiful, elegant - it will decorate any dish.

  • Beneficial features
  • Growing parsley
  • Storing parsley
  • Parsley varieties

Beneficial features

Parsley is used in soups, sauces, salads; its use reduces the need for salt. It is a low saturated fat, very low cholesterol food. It is also a good source of protein, vitamin E (alpha tocopherol), thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B6, pantothenic acid, and a very good source of dietary fiber. Parsley contains a considerable amount of vitamin C. It is also rich in vitamin A - its effect on vision and on reducing the risk of atherosclerosis and diabetes is well known. Carotene, calcium, mineral salts of iron, phosphorus, minerals - this is just the main list of useful components of this aromatic plant. And the presence of aroma, its strength and pleasant taste depend on the percentage of essential oils. Root vegetables and parsley leaves are used for food.

Preparing parsley seeds for sowing, increasing and accelerating their germination

Parsley seeds take a long time to germinate – 15-20 days. This is due to the fact that the seeds are covered with essential oils, which prevent germination; they prevent the seed shell from getting wet and do not allow moisture inside. This feature must be taken into account when preparing parsley seeds for sowing. After sowing, many gardeners cover the beds with film or spunbond to keep the soil moist. Do not remove the shelter until the sprouts appear from the ground. If you are sure that you can keep the beds moist throughout the 15-20 days required for germination, then soaking the parsley seeds before sowing is not necessary.

But there are ways to germinate seeds that increase parsley germination, accelerating the emergence of seedlings.

You can speed up germination by soaking the seeds in water overnight before planting. Water, by the way, practically does not dissolve the oil on the surface of the seeds. Therefore, before soaking, you should pour hot water (not boiling water) over the parsley seeds to wash away the essential oils from their surface.

Another way. Very simple. Need to soak the seeds in vodka, since essential oils dissolve in alcohol-containing solutions. I pour a little 40-degree water into the bottom of the saucer. Then I sprinkle the seeds on a small piece of wide gauze bandage. I dip parsley seeds on gauze in vodka and leave for 15-20 minutes. You can't do it any longer - you might burn the seeds. Then I lift the bandage with the seeds and rinse it under running water. It is necessary to rinse. Then I dry the seeds. That's it - the parsley seeds are ready for sowing. This method of seed treatment allows them to germinate twice as fast. The shoots are friendly and strong.

There is another way fast germination. Many of us grow herbs for the table on a window or balcony. It is very comfortable. Parsley seeds germinate very slowly, but there is one way to “make” them germinate very quickly. Prepare a container with soil, moisten it, sprinkle the soil with quicklime three times every 10-15 minutes. Sow parsley seeds pre-soaked in milk. The seeds will sprout in three hours. The room should be warm, not lower than 20°C.

Growing parsley

Before sowing parsley seeds, you should dig up or loosen the soil well. It will not be superfluous to fill it with organic fertilizers before cultivating the soil.

The timing of sowing depends on the condition of the soil. You don't have to wait for warm weather. As soon as the snow has melted, you can sow the seeds. The optimal temperature for seed germination is +1 - +5C. In Kuban you can sow during the “February windows”. In central Russia - in April, after the snow melts. That is, parsley is a cold-resistant plant. The seedlings easily tolerate light frosts and overwinter well under a good layer of snow. Spring is a great time to sow parsley seeds, but you can sow it any time of the year - spring, summer and fall. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist until germination. Seeds can be sown in late autumn, before winter. In this case, the sowing time must be chosen so that the seeds do not have time to germinate before the onset of frost - the young seedlings will not tolerate the cold and will die.

The best predecessors of parsley are onions, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Sow the seeds shallowly, to a depth of no more than 1-1.5 cm. It is better to sprinkle the seeds on top with humus. During the entire growth period, it is necessary to loosen the soil at least 3-4 times and feed 1-2 times. If the seedlings are too dense, the crops need to be thinned out. There should be at least 3-5 cm between plants. Fertilizing should begin only after 2-3 true leaves appear. Feed with a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. Parsley does not like weeds; they greatly inhibit its growth.

Over the entire season, 3-4 loosening, 1-2 fertilizing and watering are carried out. In case of dense shoots, the plants are thinned out, leaving 3-5 cm between them. Feeding begins when the plants have 2-3 true leaves, and then feeding is done after cutting off the leaves. To obtain a large yield of green mass, parsley is fed with complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen.

Leaves are cut as low as possible. Do not cut too many leaves from one plant at a time - no more than a third, otherwise the bush will not be able to recover quickly or will die altogether. It is worth periodically removing the stem on which the inflorescence forms (unless you want to collect the seeds) because new leaves will not grow on the old stem. New leaves usually grow from the outside of the rosette. By the way, in curly varieties, new leaves grow from the center of the rosette.

Tomatoes and asparagus in your garden will grow better if parsley grows nearby. Plant it near roses - their aroma will intensify.

Storing parsley

The best storage method is freezing. It retains taste and color well when frozen. If you have to collect it for storage after rain, you should rinse the branches well and dry them by wrapping them in a kitchen towel. Separate the leaves from the stems. Don't throw away the stems; you can freeze them too. They are great for enhancing the taste of soups. Place the parsley stalks into the soup shortly before the end of cooking, tied into bunches. Then, after 5-7 minutes, they can be removed from the soup.

Parsley is a wonderful green, biennial herb that can be added to almost any dish. By sowing parsley in the summer, you can try this greenery not only in the year of planting, but also the next season. In addition, parsley - unpretentious plant and there are no complicated rules on how to sow it and how to care for it.

Parsley has one peculiarity - its seeds take a long time to germinate.

I even found a post on the Internet that says: “How to grow parsley in 3 hours” - to do this, you need to soak it in milk, and sprinkle the soil with dolomite three times every 10-15 minutes before planting. In my opinion - complete nonsense! Moreover, I did not see a single photograph confirming this experiment.

10 tips for growing parsley that you really should use.

  1. Parsley can be sown from early spring to early August. Seeds germinate at 3-4°C. Parsley grows best in well-lit places and loose, fertile soils with an acidity of pH 5.5 - 6.7, and ash or any potash fertilizer is very effective for feeding it.
  2. When sowing in spring and summer, it is better to first soak parsley seeds for 2-3 hours in Zircon. When soaking, it is convenient to use cotton pads to remove makeup. In October-November you can do winter sowing– dry seeds.
  3. When planting, the soil should not be dry, but also too wet.
  4. Plant the seeds shallowly in the soil, about 1 cm. You can cover the plantings with lutrasil for the first time. If you want seedlings to appear even faster, cover the crops with film or glass, and when greenery appears, cover them with lutrasil.
  5. It is better to sow parsley in rows in a separate bed. There is no need to maintain any specific distance: as soon as the parsley grows, thin out the plantings by cutting the greens into a salad.
  6. You don’t have to prepare a separate bed for parsley: plant it in the rows of any vegetable plants. The exception is carrots; parsley is not friendly with them. You can even plant parsley along the edges of the furrows with potatoes, of course, after you have hilled the potatoes for the second time.
  7. Parsley looks very impressive and beautiful when planted as a border or edging to other annual plants and flowers. In container gardening, parsley is one of the commonly used herbs: plant parsley in different containers and flowerpots with other aromatic herbs and you will have a “kitchen garden” that will provide you with a variety of greens for the table all season long.
  8. Parsley is not “friendly” with crops such as dill, carrots, parsnips, celery, caraway seeds, cilantro, and carrots, so it cannot be planted in beds where these crops previously grew.
  9. Parsley can have two main pests - the whitefly butterfly and the swallowtail caterpillar. Check the crops and if you find caterpillars, collect them by hand and destroy them. And against whiteflies, use dusting with ash and tobacco dust in a ratio of 1:1 or spraying with tar or laundry soap.
  10. Grown parsley is cut with scissors, starting with the outer leaves. Parsley is consumed not only fresh, it retains its qualities both dried and frozen.

Little tips.

  • Parsley planted around the perimeter of the bed will help against slug invasion.
  • Due to the decorative nature of the leaves, parsley can be sown in balcony boxes or garden flowerpots along with various flowers.
  • To keep parsley leaves fresh longer and not wilt, place them in a vinegar solution for half an hour. diluting it halfway with water.
  • Parsley is not a moisture-loving plant, but in too dry weather the growth of its leaves slows down and they become coarser. In this case, the leaves become more fragrant, as reserves of essential oils grow in them.
  • At the end of the summer season, you can dig up a couple of parsley bushes and, replanting them in pots, take them with you to your apartment: then you can enjoy the greenery of parsley in winter.
  • Parsley is an assistant to your health. Helps...
    • for viral diseases and influenza;
    • hypertension;
    • nephritis - kidney disease (parsley root boiled in milk);
    • obesity;
    • swelling;
    • cystitis

Good luck with your planting, harvest and ideas!

Parsley is the herb that we always grow in our gardens and vegetable gardens. There are no special secrets on how to plant parsley; planting parsley and dill is simple. It grows in almost any soil; parsley can grow in both sun and partial shade. Parsley grows best in light, fertile soil in a sunny location.

Parsley is a two-year herb, so in May you can eat last year's parsley shoots, and by June wait for new shoots. The advantage of parsley is that it has a long period when planting parsley - it can be planted throughout the summer and even before winter, but don’t get too carried away, it may not overwinter well. Leaf parsley can be sown throughout the summer.

Where to sow parsley in spring

Parsley grows well in fertilized and loose soils; if you are growing root parsley, then loamy or sandy loam soil is suitable for it. This plant is light-loving and loves long daylight hours, so choose a sunny planting location. Suitable for growing parsley in the garden:

  • direct sunlight,
  • penumbra,
  • scattered sun rays

The plant is moisture-loving, but you should not over-water the plantings, it does not tolerate it. May be damaged powdery mildew, rust, black dry rot. It must be protected from slugs and aphids.

When to plant parsley.

  • Parsley for seedlings and for growing at home on windowsills can be planted from January during the days of the waxing moon to December.
  • When can you plant dill and parsley in open ground? In open ground, in a garden bed, the time to plant parsley comes in the second half of April. But, if it doesn’t sprout (sometimes you sow and sow, but it doesn’t sprout), then you can sow several times a season. Parsley is a cold-resistant plant and the planting temperature for parsley is +1 ... +5 degrees. It can easily withstand frost.

Days of the waxing moon for planting parsley in 2015:

  • when can you plant parsley in March - from March 22 to March 31,
  • in April they plant parsley - April 1-3 and April 19-30,
  • V landing days for parsley in May - 1 - 3 and 19 - 31 May.

A significant disadvantage of parsley is that it takes a long time to sprout, so if you plant parsley on greens in April, it will be edible in June. Parsley seeds germinate more slowly, so you can soak the seeds before planting.

To speed up the cultivation of parsley in open ground, cover the crops with covering material. You can even do this. I decided to cover it with polyethylene, and then, after the first green shoots appeared, with lutrasil or other woven material. Under polyethylene parsley will sprout quickly, and then changing the polyethylene to a woven material, you will not have to worry about the seedlings burning.

How to plant parsley seedlings.

Mini-greenhouses in the form of containers with drawers and a lid are well suited for growing parsley from seedlings.

  • fill each cup with soil mixture,
  • pour warm water,
  • place 5 - 6 parsley seeds,
  • sprinkle with soil for seedlings, 0.5 cm thick,
  • cover the greenhouse with a plastic lid or plastic film,
  • Place it in a bright place with a constant temperature, maybe even on a glassed-in balcony.

Parsley seedlings take a long time to emerge, about two weeks.

How to speed up the germination of parsley seeds (how to soak parsley seeds if they do not germinate):

  • pour dry seeds with a glass of hot tap water,
  • cool down
  • when the water cools down, drain it,
  • do this procedure several times during the day,
  • wrap in a damp cloth,
  • As soon as the seeds hatch, plant them in the ground.

How to plant parsley with seeds in a garden bed in open ground.

It is best and most common to plant parsley in rows. You don’t even have to make a separate bed, but plant it between other vegetables that ripen slowly. It is preferable to grow parsley in beds with row spacing of 20–25 cm.

There is parsley: root and leaf.

How to plant root parsley.

Growing root parsley has its own subtleties, since root system forms the root crop in the form of a cone, then it must be sown immediately on permanent place, early spring (mid-April). Shoots take a long time to appear, so be sure to soak the seeds. For good growth it needs potassium, so before planting, add ash to the soil at the rate of 1 cup of ash per 1 meter of planting. In dry weather, water the prepared breast generously before adding the ash. In wet weather, ash can simply be scattered between rows on moist soil.

Leaf parsley has beautiful leaves that can be used for flower bed decoration and design. garden plot. The leaves are smooth, curly, and corrugated. Root y leaf parsley thin and highly branched.

Parsley is an unpretentious herb, but it still grows better:

  • in a well-lit garden bed,
  • with fertilized, loose soil,
  • for root - with a deep topsoil layer,
  • Do not plant this plant in places where other umbrella crops such as celery, carrots, dill, cilantro, and caraway previously grew. Only after 4 years will it be possible to plant parsley, after these predecessors, so we are making a bed for parsley taking into account these recommendations.

How to plant parsley beautifully.

Thanks to its beautiful curly leaves and long, until frost, preservation of its bright green color, parsley can be used as ornamental plant. It can be used to decorate flower beds or plant at the edges in raised beds. Also, green parsley leaves look beautiful in garden flowerpots. In addition, parsley can be trimmed, and then it grows back and you can reap several harvests of herbs.

Parsley is the most delicious and healthy herb, which is so widely used as a seasoning for preparing various dishes. It is also very well used in medicine, serves as the best healer in folk medicine and not only. Not only the leaves are used, but also the root of parsley. Almost every gardener grows it on his plot. You can choose seeds at a gardening store, where you can choose the variety that you like best among a large selection. On the back of each package it is written when it will sprout and what its taste characteristics are.

Planting and growing parsley

This cultivated plant can be sown as at the end of summer, so that it next year gave a good harvest of root vegetables and also greens or in the spring so that during the summer I could eat these healthy greens. It can be planted as soon as the frosts end and the ground warms up enough. Before sowing parsley seeds, you need to prepare small area land on which you want to plant it. Make grooves with a small distance between them. Plant seeds as soon as possible closer friend to a friend, this is done so that the parsley sprouts very often and thickly, and cover it with the same soil, so that the seeds are not very deep in the ground. After you have planted the seeds, be sure to water them with a small amount of water.
It is best to cover it with polyethylene before germination so that the seeds germinate as quickly as possible. After the first shoots sprout, the polyethylene must be removed. Then don’t water it very often, but you also shouldn’t overdry the soil, as it will then taste bitter and taste qualities will not be on top level. Be sure to loosen between the furrows and weed so that it does not become overgrown with weeds. As soon as parsley grows at least 10-12 cm, it can already be eaten and prepared in a variety of dishes. This will happen around mid-June, as parsley grows very quickly.

Harvesting and storage

Since parsley is a biennial plant, in the first year you should only remove the leaves by cutting them with scissors, and in the second year you must also remove the root vegetables. It should be removed long before the first frost occurs; it is best to do this at the end of August. Since parsley is very afraid of frost, it loses most its beneficial vitamins and marketable condition. The cut leaves are tied into bunches and dried, and then finely pounded or ground to be added later to food as spices. Some people chop the leaves finely, add salt and put them tightly in jars and store them in the refrigerator, but in this form they don’t last very long, up to 150 days.