How to treat fuchsia. Frequent diseases of fuchsia and their treatment. Types and varieties of fuchsia photo

Fuchsia – wonderful and beautiful indoor flower. But, like most other plants, it is susceptible to various pests and diseases. Treatment in this case depends primarily on the degree of infection. The earlier the problem is identified, the easier it will be to deal with it.

Where do pests and plant diseases come from?

Various disasters befall the plant as a result of improper care. By paying enough attention to the flower, you don’t have to worry about diseases. When it was possible to detect the problem at the initial stage, exclude the source in time - the flower recovers on its own, without any means.

If trouble with fuchsia does happen, the problem should be clearly defined, then the treatment will be effective.

Fuchsia diseases are divided into 2 categories:

Diseases due to improper care.
Fungal and pest damage.

Most often, problems arise based on both factors. With proper care, even pests find it difficult to attack a strong plant.

First of all, we will consider diseases associated with the root system and leaves. Signs in such cases are visible almost immediately. It is important to identify them in time to avoid the death of the flower.

Fuchsia has white, strong roots. When they become soft, they change color to brown - these are signs of root rot. The main reason for this is a large amount of moisture. Even good drainage cannot help here.

Methods to combat root rot:

The plant is removed from the pot.
The roots are thoroughly washed in warm water.
The affected roots are cut off with a sharp object.
The remaining flower is placed in a container with clean water.
When healthy white roots appear, the fuchsia can be planted in new soil.

Gray rot is dangerous for fuchsia. The part of the plant that is affected becomes soft and watery. This happens when the indoor air is too humidified. A plaque forms on the leaves. Gray rot occurs mainly in autumn or spring. It is during this period that the weather outside is damp and wet.

All affected leaves must be removed and carefully cut off. The room should be dry and require periodic ventilation. If necessary, apply purchased funds.

It happens that even with healthy and strong roots, the plant’s growth slows down, the root system is very developed and gets tangled into a ball. There is a simple explanation for this phenomenon - there is not enough space. The fuchsia is replanted and growth resumes.

Very often, the disease can be determined by the condition of the leaves. In different situations they change color and structure:

Brown tint and drying out - there is not enough molybdenum in the soil.
Veins of a yellow tint - there is not enough manganese in the soil.
The leaves turn white and wither - there is not enough nitrogen.

Treatment in such cases is quite simple; the plant needs to be provided with the nutrition it lacks.

Typical leaf disease

Another big nuisance is various pests, there are not so few of them. They attack mainly during warm periods.

On hot summer days, windows are often open, which allows whiteflies to fly into the room unhindered. It is quite difficult to notice this butterfly; it is very tiny. The whitefly lays on inside leaves inconspicuous eggs. The flower reacts very quickly to such a change. Whitish sticky droplets form on the leaves. In this case, rinsing with water will not help; they will increase. Butterflies hatched from eggs (there are a lot of them) feed on the sap of the plant. As a result, the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off. Everything happens rapidly, and if this is not noticed, the whiteflies will begin to eat the flower stem.

The first thing to do in the fight against whiteflies is to wash the flower with warm, soapy water. Rinse more carefully inner part foliage and stem. The soap solution should not get on the roots, this is destructive. They are protected with polyethylene or a simple bag.

In untreated situations, a few soap treatments are enough to get rid of the problem. When they do not help, they use special purchased preparations as sprays. The sellers at the flower shop will tell you which product is best.

If the indoor air is not only warm, but also dry, this is an excellent habitat for red spider mites. Signs of fuchsia mite damage:

The inner part of the foliage acquires a gray coating.
A tiny cobweb appears.
Black spots form on the leaves.

Get rid of ticks with simple steps traditional methods succeeds extremely rarely. It’s better not to rely on luck and buy a special product.

On a note! All purchased products are used according to the instructions or recommendations of flower growers. Using them for other purposes is also harmful.

When you find pests on fuchsia, it should be isolated from the rest indoor plants. To prevent infection, in the summer the flower is treated with special means. Prevention in this case is simply necessary.

Another common disease is rust. It appears on the leaves as brown spots. The disease spreads quickly and requires immediate treatment:

All affected leaves are immediately removed and cut off with a sharp object.
A soap solution is prepared (with laundry soap), and the entire plant is treated.
Special means must be used.

Rust is very contagious, all tools should be disinfected, after cutting off the “sick” leaves, hands should also be washed and disinfected. Only after this can you continue working with the flower.

An unpleasant disease of fuchsia is leaf nematodes. They affect the foliage of the flower and form between the veins yellow spots, which over time acquire a brown tint. The leaves begin to fall. If the plant is frequently sprayed, nematodes will rapidly multiply on it.

The fight against this disease begins with removing the affected leaves. In this case, you need to significantly reduce watering and stop spraying for a while.

Important! Under no circumstances should you propagate a plant that is sick.

Caterpillars are pests that can be quickly detected. They gnaw on leaves, and you can also see the caterpillar's mark left behind in the form of black dots (their feces).

In case of mass damage, insecticides are used as treatment. In addition, fuchsia is regularly inspected and caterpillars are removed. It is better to look for them in the evening.

A fairly common pest is aphids. It has the ability to infect the entire plant, rather than individual parts. Aphids on indoor plants can have a different color palette: green, red, black. May affect:

Root system.
Stems.
Buds.
Leaves.

Flowers, buds and leaves begin to curl, turn yellow and fall off. Sticky secretions are visible on parts of the plant affected by aphids. If a pest such as aphids is not recognized in time, the fuchsia will quickly die.

When aphids are found on one plant, you can fight it by bathing the flower in a soapy solution. If the aphid has affected the fuchsia severely enough, or a collective infection has begun, there is no way to do without professional preparations; they can be purchased at a flower shop.

Aphids can appear on a flower in this way:

Fly into open windows.
It may be in the soil in which the flower is planted, especially if it was taken not from a store, but from a garden.
Comes with new plants. Perhaps a flower was given or purchased that was already infected. Naturally, aphids will spread.

Strong and healthy plant, which is carefully cared for, is much less likely to be attacked by aphids and other pests.

We take proper care

Let us once again recall the fact that diseases and pests appear in fuchsia due to improper care.

Fuchsia has a large number of species. Its flowers have a different color palette. Therefore, on the windowsill you can collect all the colors of the rainbow.

Rules of care:

Watering. During the warm period, the flower needs frequent and abundant watering. As soon as you see it drying out upper layer soil, feel free to grab the watering can. In cold weather, watering is significantly reduced. In the last 2 months of autumn, watering can be stopped altogether. When the room temperature is low enough, watering is carried out a couple of times a month.

The water used is settled and cannot be watered from the tap.

Light. All types of fuchsias are loved bright lighting. It must be diffuse. The scorching sun has an unfavorable effect on the flower. During flowering, the fuchsia should not be twisted or rearranged, otherwise the entire color will fall off.
Temperature. During the growing season, the optimal temperature is 18-25 degrees. In summer, the flower can be planted in open ground. Temperatures above 30 degrees are fraught with the following consequences:

Leaves are falling.
Flowering stops.
The flower dries up.

On hot days, fuchsia is removed from sunny window sills, it is advisable to take it out onto the balcony or loggia. Direct rays of the sun will destroy the flower.

The heat is also harmful to the root system, so it is recommended to use ceramic pots for planting; they are not subject to strong heat.

We fertilize and feed. Fuchsia during its growth period needs regular spraying of its leaves. It is better to do this in the mornings and evenings. To humidify the air, place a container with pebbles (pebbles) filled with water near the flower pot. In cold weather, moisture will cause harm; stop spraying.

As fertilizing, you can use any purchased products that are intended for indoor plants.

In winter, fertilizer is not needed; they begin to add it at the end of March. Frequency – once every 7 days, before the onset of cold weather.

Transfer. This point is very important, since when using low-quality soil, they can develop various diseases, pests (for example, aphids) will appear.

The flower should be replanted annually in the spring. The soil is purchased at a flower shop. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the pot so that there is no excess moisture. Choose a large pot.

Reproduction. Also very important factor, during this period the flower needs special care, since it is during reproduction that it is considered the most vulnerable and weakest.

Fuchsia can be propagated in 3 ways:

Cuttings.
Seeds.
Leaves.

We propagate by cuttings. I start the process at the end of winter, beginning of March. Those varieties that grow slowly can be propagated at the end of August, beginning of September. Cuttings are selected 5-7 centimeters long. Rooting goes well in a loose environment. It can be either sand or water. In less than a month (20-25 days) you will see the first roots. At this point, the cuttings can be planted in pots 7-9 centimeters deep. You can prepare the soil yourself; it should contain:

Humus.
Sand.
Leaf or turf soil.

All ingredients are mixed in equal quantities.

For the splendor of the flower, several cuttings are planted in one pot. Their flowering can be expected in the same year.

We propagate by seeds. To plant seeds, artificial pollination is required. This is a very interesting process. You can mix several types of fuchsias. As a result, new varieties will appear and the color palette will expand its horizons.

We propagate by leaves. This type of reproduction should be carried out according to a clear pattern:

I choose a strong stem. It should have strong and developed leaves.
The resulting “material” is placed in loose soil to a depth of no more than 1 centimeter.
The planted leaves are covered (plastic or glass lids can be used).
Spraying is carried out daily.
You cannot take water from the tap; it must be boiled and warm. Be careful not to burn the plant!
The appearance of the first small rosettes indicates the need for repotting.

By propagating fuchsia you can get different and magnificent varieties and species. It is better to do this yourself, then you will be confident that the plant will grow strong and healthy. Brought seeds, sprouts, leaves from the “street” may have various problems that will have to be dealt with. In the worst case scenario, they will infect other indoor plants.

Possible problems

Problems that a grower may encounter:

Fuchsia does not bloom. Reasons for this:
In winter, the flower was kept warm.
Excessive watering.
IN warm time There was infrequent watering or there was not enough fertilizing.
There is little light during the growing season.
The leaves of the flower wither, dry out and fall off. Reasons for this:
The indoor air is dry and the soil lacks moisture.
Fuchsia buds do not open. Reasons for this:
Excessive moisture.

Very often, any problems with a flower do not signal diseases or pests at all, but indicate improper care. In this case, there is no need to resort to different means, it is enough to pay due attention to fuchsia.

Fuchsia(Fuchsia) is a genus of perennial plants in the fireweed family (Onagraceae), which contains about 100 plant species. She comes from Central and South America, New Zealand.

The date of release of fuchsia was 1696, when the famous botanist Charles Plumier, during his third expedition to the West Indies, discovered a new plant and dedicated it to the German botanist and physician Leonart von Fuchs, calling it fuchsia.

Since then, it has become one of the favorite plants among gardeners all over the world, thanks to its luxurious, long-lasting and amazingly beautiful flowering. Today there is even a purple color called “fuchsia”, named after this flower.

Fuchsias can be shrubby or tree-like (only in natural growth) or carpet. Depending on the type, their flowers can be single or collected in racemes, axillary, on thin stalks, drooping. They can also have a wide variety of colors: white, pink, red, purple. In addition, there are fuchsia varieties with double color.

Fuchsia - cultivation and care

Fuchsia is a light-loving plant, however, it does not tolerate direct sunlight, so it should not be kept on the window; it is better to find a place in the back of the room.

The temperature of the fuchsia should be moderate or cool, since its increase above 20 ° C can cause the plant to shed flowers and leaves and even lead to its death. In winter, fuchsia should be kept at a temperature no higher than 10°C, since at this time it enters a dormant period. By providing the plant proper wintering, you can speed up flowering and extend its duration.

Fuchsia should be watered abundantly so that the soil is always moist. Towards the end of the growing season, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering so that in winter, when the temperature of the plant drops, it is moderate, in order to avoid rotting of the roots. If you want to successfully grow this flower, then you need to remember that you should not place a tray under the pot, since if it happens that water remains in it, even for one day, this can cause the death of the plant.

But fuchsia loves high air humidity, so you need to try to increase it, especially on hot days, by spraying water around the plant with a spray bottle or placing the pot on a tray with pebbles so that there is water under the pot, but it does not touch its bottom. This is necessary so that the stomata of the plant are open longer and a better increase in vegetative mass occurs.

To prevent flowering from being delayed, the plant should be formed in time. You should not turn the flower often so that it does not drop its buds. If you are going to plant fuchsia in a composition with other plants, you should be very careful in choosing its neighbors so that they have similar conditions, and also use planting methods in which the root systems of the plants do not intertwine.

In March-September, fuchsia should be fed with mineral fertilizer for flowering indoor plants.

Fuchsia - transplantation and propagation

Fuchsias must be replanted annually in the spring. The soil for replanting should consist of 3 parts clay-turf and 2 parts peat soil, to which 1 part sand is added. When choosing a pot, you need to remember that fuchsia feels equally uncomfortable in both too tight and too loose pots.
Having cut off the shoots and shortened the roots, the flower is transplanted into a nutrient mixture, placed on a sunny window and provided with abundant watering and spraying. If everything is done correctly, then young shoots will begin to grow very quickly and flowers will soon appear on them. You can delay the onset of the fuchsia flowering period until late autumn or winter. To do this, they should be kept in a dark place until June and then taken out to the balcony. To prevent flowering during the summer, they should be pruned several times.

The shoots that were cut off during transplantation are used to propagate plants by cuttings. Fuchsia can also be propagated by seeds, however, in this case there is no guarantee that all the characteristics of the mother plant will be preserved.

After rooting the cuttings, about a week later, they are planted one at a time in small pots and placed in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. Then, with the onset of summer, they are replanted again. Providing new fuchsias good watering and fertilizing, you can get luxuriously flowering plants. However, if you move flower pots from place to place, their buds will begin to fall off.

Fuchsia - diseases and pests

Good agricultural technology is the main means of preventing various fuchsia diseases. Even if you make some mistakes in its cultivation, if they are eliminated, the plant can heal itself. For example, from exposure to direct sunlight, spots may appear on its leaves, and if the flower pot is rearranged, they will disappear.

Sometimes the plant can be affected by rust. In this case, appropriate fungicides should be applied, as with any fungal disease.

Fuchsia may also suffer from pests: aphids, weevils, mites, whiteflies. The first three species can be easily destroyed by exposure to insecticides such as Aktelik or Gaupsin, which are not toxic to humans. But it is more difficult to deal with whiteflies, since the flower will have to be treated repeatedly with an insecticide from the group of neurotoxins, one dose on the leaf and a double dose at the root. The infested plant should be kept separate to avoid the spread of whitefly.

Of course, some may think that growing fuchsia is very difficult. But any plant requires attention, patience and care, and you will never see such tender and graceful beauty again. “Dancing flower” is how flower growers nicknamed fuchsia. And if you don’t spare your time and effort for him, then this lovely dancer will decorate your home for a long time and delight you and your loved ones.

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Diseases and pests of fuchsia

Fuchsia is a wonderful and beautiful indoor flower. But, like most other plants, it is susceptible to various pests and diseases. Treatment in this case depends primarily on the degree of infection. The earlier the problem is identified, the easier it will be to deal with it.

Where do pests and plant diseases come from?

If trouble with fuchsia does happen, the problem should be clearly defined, then the treatment will be effective.

Fuchsia diseases are divided into 2 categories:

Diseases due to improper care.

Fungal and pest damage.

Most often, problems arise based on both factors. With proper care, even pests find it difficult to attack a strong plant.

Methods to combat root rot:

The plant is removed from the pot.

The roots are thoroughly washed in warm water.

The affected roots are cut off with a sharp object.

The remaining flower is placed in a container with clean water.

When healthy white roots appear, the fuchsia can be planted in new soil.

All affected leaves must be removed and carefully cut off. The room should be dry and require periodic ventilation. If necessary, use purchased products.

Very often, the disease can be determined by the condition of the leaves. In different situations they change color and structure:

Brown tint and drying out - there is not enough molybdenum in the soil.

Veins of a yellow tint - there is not enough manganese in the soil.

The leaves turn white and wither - there is not enough nitrogen.

Treatment in such cases is quite simple; the plant needs to be provided with the nutrition it lacks.

Another big nuisance is various pests, there are not so few of them. They attack mainly during warm periods.

On hot summer days, windows are often open, which allows whiteflies to fly into the room unhindered. It is quite difficult to notice this butterfly; it is very tiny. The whitefly lays inconspicuous eggs on the inside of the leaf. The flower reacts very quickly to such a change. Whitish sticky droplets form on the leaves. In this case, rinsing with water will not help; they will increase. Butterflies hatched from eggs (there are a lot of them) feed on the sap of the plant. As a result, the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off. Everything happens rapidly, and if this is not noticed, the whiteflies will begin to eat the flower stem.

The first thing to do in the fight against whiteflies is to wash the flower with warm, soapy water. You should wash the inside of the foliage and stem more carefully. The soap solution should not get on the roots, this is destructive. They are protected with polyethylene or a simple bag.

If the indoor air is not only warm, but also dry, this is an excellent habitat for red spider mites. Signs of fuchsia mite damage:

The inner part of the foliage acquires a gray coating.

A tiny cobweb appears.

Black spots form on the leaves.

It is extremely rare to get rid of a tick using simple folk methods. It’s better not to rely on luck and buy a special product.

On a note! All purchased products are used according to the instructions or recommendations of flower growers. Using them for other purposes is also harmful.

When you find pests on fuchsia, it should be isolated from other indoor plants. To prevent infection, in the summer the flower is treated with special means. Prevention in this case is simply necessary.

Another common disease is rust. It appears on the leaves as brown spots. The disease spreads quickly and requires immediate treatment:

All affected leaves are immediately removed and cut off with a sharp object.

A soap solution is prepared (with laundry soap), and the entire plant is treated.

Special means must be used.

An unpleasant disease of fuchsia is leaf nematodes. The foliage of the flower is affected, yellow spots form between the veins, which over time acquire a brown tint. The leaves begin to fall. If the plant is frequently sprayed, nematodes will rapidly multiply on it.

The fight against this disease begins with removing the affected leaves. In this case, you need to significantly reduce watering and stop spraying for a while.

Important! Under no circumstances should you propagate a plant that is sick.

Caterpillars are pests that can be quickly detected. They gnaw on leaves, and you can also see the caterpillar's mark left behind in the form of black dots (their feces).

In case of mass damage, insecticides are used as treatment. In addition, fuchsia is regularly inspected and caterpillars are removed. It is better to look for them in the evening.

A fairly common pest is aphids. It has the ability to infect the entire plant, rather than individual parts. Aphids on indoor plants can have a different color palette: green, red, black. May affect:

Aphids can appear on a flower in this way:

Fly into open windows.
It may be in the soil in which the flower is planted, especially if it was taken not from a store, but from a garden.
Comes with new plants. Perhaps a flower was given or purchased that was already infected. Naturally, aphids will spread.

A strong and healthy plant, which is carefully cared for, is much less likely to be attacked by aphids and other pests.

We take proper care

Let us once again recall the fact that diseases and pests appear in fuchsia due to improper care.

Fuchsia has a large number of species. Its flowers have a different color palette. Therefore, on the windowsill you can collect all the colors of the rainbow.

Watering. During the warm period, the flower needs frequent and abundant watering. As soon as you see the top layer of soil drying out, feel free to grab the watering can. In cold weather, watering is significantly reduced. In the last 2 months of autumn, watering can be stopped altogether. When the room temperature is low enough, watering is carried out a couple of times a month.

The water used is settled and cannot be watered from the tap.

Light. All types of fuchsias love bright lighting. It must be diffuse. The scorching sun has an unfavorable effect on the flower. During flowering, the fuchsia should not be twisted or rearranged, otherwise the entire color will fall off.
Temperature. During the growing season, the optimal temperature is 18-25 degrees. In summer, the flower can be planted in open ground. Temperatures above 30 degrees are fraught with the following consequences:

Leaves are falling.
Flowering stops.
The flower dries up.

On hot days, fuchsia is removed from sunny windowsills; it is advisable to take it out onto the balcony or loggia. Direct rays of the sun will destroy the flower.

The heat is also harmful to the root system, so it is recommended to use ceramic pots for planting; they are not subject to strong heat.

We fertilize and feed. Fuchsia during its growth period needs regular spraying of its leaves. It is better to do this in the mornings and evenings. To humidify the air, place a container with pebbles (pebbles) filled with water near the flower pot. In cold weather, moisture will cause harm; stop spraying.

As fertilizing, you can use any purchased products that are intended for indoor plants.

In winter, fertilizer is not needed; they begin to add it at the end of March. Frequency – once every 7 days, before the onset of cold weather.

Transfer. This point is very important, since when using low-quality soil, various diseases can develop and pests (for example, aphids) can appear.

Reproduction. It is also a very important factor; during this period the flower needs special care, since it is during reproduction that it is considered the most vulnerable and weakest.

Fuchsia can be propagated in 3 ways:

Humus.

Sand.

Leaf or turf soil.

All ingredients are mixed in equal quantities.

For the splendor of the flower, several cuttings are planted in one pot. Their flowering can be expected in the same year.

We propagate by leaves. This type of reproduction should be carried out according to a clear pattern:

I choose a strong stem. It should have strong and developed leaves.

The resulting “material” is placed in loose soil to a depth of no more than 1 centimeter.

The planted leaves are covered (plastic or glass lids can be used).

Spraying is carried out daily.

You cannot take water from the tap; it must be boiled and warm. Be careful not to burn the plant!

The appearance of the first small rosettes indicates the need for repotting.

Possible problems

Problems that a grower may encounter:

Fuchsia does not bloom. Reasons for this:

In winter, the flower was kept warm.

Excessive watering.

During warm times, watering was rare or there was not enough fertilizing.

There is little light during the growing season.

The leaves of the flower wither, dry out and fall off. Reasons for this:

The indoor air is dry and the soil lacks moisture.

Fuchsia buds do not open. Reasons for this:

Excessive moisture.

Very often, any problems with a flower do not signal diseases or pests at all, but indicate improper care. In this case, there is no need to resort to different means; it is enough to pay due attention to the fuchsia.

ogorodnikam.com

Growing and caring for ampelous fuchsia in the house and garden

For gardeners, fuchsia is of interest because of its long and abundant flowering. The plant looks like a bush or tree with reddish flexible branches with leaves and flowers located on them. Fuchsia flowers come in a wide variety of shades: blue, white, pink, purple, orange, red, or even two colors at once. They hang from stems like lanterns. Unpretentious and undemanding fuchsia usually blooms from April to October.

A little history

In 1695, the French botanist Plumiere developed a magnificent and unusual beautiful plant with drooping flowers. This flower was named fuchsia in honor of Fuchs, a botanist from Germany. After this, breeders developed many other hybrids and varieties of fuchsia.

In Europe, this plant has been known for more than two hundred years and has long been grown there at home, and in the southern regions and in gardens.

Varieties and types of fuchsia

There are the following types of fuchsias:

tree-like;

shrubby;

with drooping stems;

with erect stems.

There are many varieties of fuchsia hybrids known. They have flowers of various sizes and colors, simple and double. Sometimes the flowers are collected in inflorescences, but there are also single ones.

On the stems of the plant, green oval leaves are located oppositely; sometimes they can be collected in whorls.

Fuchsias can be grown as an ampel plant in hanging baskets and formed as lush bushes or standard trees.

Reproduction

Propagation of fuchsia seeds and cuttings.

The easiest way is cuttings. The plant takes root quickly and easily and blooms in the same year. Young cuttings from seven to fifteen centimeters long should be taken for cuttings. The lower leaves are removed from them, and the cuttings are placed in water. They are stored at room temperature. After about a week, roots begin to appear. When roots appear, the cuttings can be planted in the substrate.

You can plant fuchsia cuttings freshly cut into the substrate, but then they should be placed in a greenhouse. Otherwise, the leaves will lose turgor. However, very quickly the plants get used to the high humidity in the greenhouse. Therefore, when the roots appear, they are taken out of the greenhouse and adapted for some time to normal air humidity. With a sharp change in climate, cuttings may lose turgor. Suitable substrates: vermiculite, peat tablet, sphagnum, perlite.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings possible at any time of the year. However, spring is preferable for this, since the plant loves cool weather. In summer, the air temperature is high, which is why the cuttings often rot before they have time to take root. In autumn, fuchsia has a dormant period from mid-October to the end of January. All its vital processes slow down, so problems may arise with reproduction.

To get seeds yourself, you need plants artificially pollinate. With cross-pollination, new plant hybrids can be obtained by pollinating different varieties of fuchsia. After a few weeks, the fruit of the plant ripens. It is cut and the seeds are carefully removed. When the seeds are dry, they can be sown. Fuchsia seeds are scattered over a moistened substrate without being embedded in the soil. Cover the top of the container with the planted seeds with film or glass and place it in a well-sanctified place. In about two weeks, shoots will appear. Seedlings dive in one and a half to two months, planting them at a greater distance from each other. After another two months, the seedlings should be planted in separate cups.

Caring for fuchsia indoors

The plant does not require complex care. However, there is one peculiarity - fuchsia must help to winter properly. Since the plant enters a dormant period in winter, it should be kept cool (the temperature should be from four to eight degrees) and dark at this time of year. For example, a basement is suitable for keeping fuchsia in winter. You can leave the plant in a cool window, where the temperature will be about twelve degrees. Watering is limited in any case.

At the beginning of spring the plant needs to be pruned, transplant into larger pots, and place on the windowsill near the window. Soon the fuchsia will give new shoots in the light and begin to bloom.

When the plant blooms, you should not rearrange or turn over the pots with them. These actions cause flowers to fall off.

The plant does not like direct sunlight; it is better to keep it in a western, northern or eastern window. In summer, it must be shaded from the bright sun.

Blooming fuchsia should be watered and sprayed abundantly. But it is not recommended to flood the plant, since all the flowers may fall off.

Every ten days a plant fed with minerals or organic fertilizers for flowering plants. You should monitor the dosage of fertilizing. Excess fertilizer leads to reduced flowering and leaf growth.

During flowering, it is necessary to pick off faded flowers so that others gain strength.

In hot summers, it is better to remove the flowers to the back of the room and place ice near the pots. This will save the plant from falling leaves and buds.

It is better to grow fuchsias in ceramic rather than plastic pots. In hot weather, the roots heat up less in them.

Diseases and treatment features

Whitefly is the main pest of fuchsia. This white small flies that look like microscopic moths. They usually live on the lower surface of the leaf. When the plant is shaken, the flies fly up. They suck the juice from the leaves, causing them to turn yellow. Then the shoots dry out and the flowers are crushed. It will help to get rid of it by spraying the leaves once every three days with the drug “Aktelik” or spraying all plants four times with the drug “Aktara”. You can alternate these drugs.

With high humidity, powdery mildew often develops. The drugs “Topaz” and “Fundazol” help fight it.

If a plant has a short flowering period, this may be due to excessive watering, lack of feeding, keeping the plant in a too warm place or lack of light.

Red spider mite found on the underside of leaves and sucks juices from plants. First, the surface of the leaves is covered with rare pale dots, then they merge into a single spot. The leaves turn yellow and die. Very often, the cause of mites can be dry air at high temperatures. To combat it, use “Fitoverm”, “Agravertin”, “Confidor” and remove the affected leaves.

Growing ampelous fuchsias in the garden

Usually in the garden fuchsias are kept as hanging plants, growing them in hanging baskets. Some gardeners also plant them in garden beds. Since fuchsia is heat-loving, then northern latitudes it is considered as an annual plant.

When growing these beautiful flowers, you must remember that they do not like the scorching sun. However, they like the morning sun.

You should know that fuchsia almost always needs to be moderately moistened. So as to prevent it from drying out, but it is also not recommended to fill it.

The best container for ampelous fuchsia is wire basket which is filled with peat moss. The basket is filled with peat moss with the addition of vermiculite and perlite. This mixture is good because its absorbent water polymers retain water and the plant is watered half as often. Before putting the mixture into the basket, it should be thoroughly soaked with water. Otherwise, it will be impossible to do this later by watering.

When buying a plant, it is best to choose fuchsias with good, but not overly developed roots.

At the end of summer, when the nights become cooler and the days become shorter, you should consider future fate plants.

Many gardeners bring fuchsia indoors. In this case, the flower will need provide certain conditions. Since fuchsias are tropical plants, you will have to emulate tropical nights (cool) at home. You will need to place the plant in a room with bright and soft light, and also turn off all heaters (especially at night). There is no need to water the flower at home in winter as much as in the garden in summer. Winter is a dormant period for fuchsia.

Spring flower can place in a warm atmosphere and start feeding him. It will be possible to take them outside at the same time that the tomatoes are being planted.

But if it is not possible to create such conditions for fuchsia in winter, then there is an alternative. To do this, you need to cut off a cutting from the main plant where the roots begin to grow. This will create a new fuchsia from the parent plant. Contain cuttings should be in small clay pots with vermiculite. In three weeks, a new root system will develop, and the plants can be transplanted into the soil. They should be kept on a lighted windowsill. There they will grow slowly. We must not forget to gradually harden the seedling before planting the plant in the garden.

Bright will not leave anyone indifferent flowering shrub fuchsia.

Fuchsia (Fuchsia) – care, photos, types

Fuchsia - description

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia)- a plant belonging to the fireweed family and numbering up to 100 species. The plant was named after the German botanist Fuchs. IN natural conditions distributed in South and Central America.

Fuchsia, depending on the variety, is trees or small shrubs. In some species the leaves grow oppositely, in others - in whorls; Some types of fuchsia shed their leaves after the end of the growing season. The leaves are lanceolate, elongated oval or ovoid; The edges of the leaves can be either whole or with small serrations. Flower calyxes are tubular and elongated, most often white or red with long stamens.

Even an amateur gardener can grow fuchsia - the plant is quite easy to care for. They are grown both as hanging plants and standard trees. One of important conditions caring for fuchsia - the plant should overwinter in cool conditions. Another difficulty is that the plant sheds its leaves after flowering.

Fuchsia – photo

Fuchsia – video

Fuchsia - home care

The optimal location of the fuchsia plant is considered to be windows on the eastern and western windows, since the plant needs a lot of bright, but diffused light. Can carry straight lines Sun rays in the morning and evening time. If fuchsia is placed on a south window at home, then the plant must be covered with a translucent cloth or paper to avoid burns. On the north side, a lack of lighting can lead to stretching of the plant and poor flowering (or lack thereof). When indoor fuchsia blooms, it should not be rearranged or rotated, as this may cause the plant to shed its buds and leaves. Fuchsia can be taken outside in the summer, but this must be done gradually, accustoming it to new conditions.

Temperature.

Air temperature during the growing season can range from 18 to 24 °C. Fuchsia should overwinter in a cool place (5 to 10 °C above zero) with good lighting. At higher temperatures, fuchsia sheds its leaves and the shoots elongate. The plant needs an influx of fresh air, but it must be ventilated carefully, since drafts can destroy the plant. In summer, the plant can be placed on the balcony, providing suitable conditions - absence of precipitation, draft and direct sunlight.

Watering fuchsia.

Water homemade fuchsia with soft, settled water at room temperature. From March to September, water immediately after the top layer of soil has dried, since at this time the substrate should be constantly slightly moist. From October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November it almost stops (this will contribute to more abundant flowering next year). When keeping fuchsia in winter at temperatures up to 10 °C, it is watered very rarely, and when wintering above 10 °C - a little more often.

Spraying fuchsia.

Spray the fuchsia flower with soft water - you need to let the water sit for 24 hours before spraying. From May to August, spray twice a day - before 9 am and after 6 pm. In autumn, spray once every two to three days. There is no need to spray the plant in winter.

Feeding fuchsia.

From April to September, the fuchsia plant is fed every 2-3 weeks with complex mineral fertilizers for indoor plants. IN winter time the plant does not need feeding.

Fuchsia blossom.

Compliance with all conditions for keeping fuchsia in room conditions will give it the opportunity to bloom from May to November, and even produce berry-like juicy fruits. Withered flowers must be removed - this helps the plant form young buds. Moving fuchsia to the balcony in July and pruning it three times over the summer will promote long-term flowering - right up to December.

Fuchsia pruning.

Overwintering fuchsia at room temperature causes the stems to stretch and the leaves to fall off. Since flowers are formed mainly on young shoots, in order to promote their development, old bare shoots need to be pruned (they can be used for propagation by cuttings). Throughout the growing season, indoor fuchsia flowers are cut and pinched. Pinch out young shoots after three pairs of leaves have formed.

To form a tree, one vertically growing shoot is attached to vertical support and all side shoots are pruned until the trunk reaches the desired height. After this, the top is cut off and 3-5 side shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree. In three years, a beautiful lush crown will form.

Fuchsia transplant.

Indoor fuchsia is transplanted annually in early March. Before transplanting, cut off old shoots by at least a third and slightly shorten the roots. In ampelous species, the shoots are not shortened, since the plant loses its decorative effect. Fuchsia is transplanted into slightly acidic soil, consisting of deciduous soil, peat and sand (3:2:1). Another substrate option is 3 parts of clay-turf soil, 2 parts of greenhouse soil and 1 part. sand (and some peat chips). Drainage is poured into the bottom of the pot to one-fifth of its height. After transplantation, the plant is generously sprayed and watered, and placed in a place with bright, diffused light. In mid-summer, home fuchsia can be replanted in fresh soil.

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds.

To obtain fuchsia seeds, you need to artificially pollinate. When pollinating different types of fuchsias with in different forms and shades of flowers, you can get a new hybrid.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings.

When propagating by cuttings, cuttings 5-7 cm in length are needed. To root, fuchsia cuttings are placed in water or one end is buried in sand. The cuttings will take root within 3-4 weeks. The cuttings are planted in 9-centimeter individual pots in a substrate of equal parts of humus, leaf and turf soil, and sand. To grow lush bushes, cuttings need to be planted several in one pot. Young domestic fuchsias should bloom in the same year. Species that grow slowly are best propagated by cuttings in late summer.

Fuchsia - diseases and pests

Fuchsia is sick. Fuchsias do not tolerate stagnant air well - during the growing season the room must be regularly ventilated or the fuchsia must be placed on the balcony.

Fuchsia fades quickly. Fuchsia can bloom for a short period with abundant watering and keeping in warm conditions in winter; in case of insufficient lighting in spring and summer; with insufficient watering and fertilizing in summer.

Fuchsia leaves are falling off. If fuchsia sheds its leaves in winter, the plant can be removed from bright light, and the emerging buds must be pinched.

Fuchsia is shedding its leaves. Leaves may fall off if humidity is too low, watering is poor, and temperatures are too high.

Fuchsia's buds are falling off with insufficient lighting and too warm air, as well as with irregular watering.

Spots on fuchsia leaves. The plant may develop spotting if the plant is watered too often in winter.

Fuchsia has dropped its buds. During flowering or the appearance of buds, the plant cannot be moved - it may drop the buds. The same consequences will occur if fuchsia is placed in a draft.

Fuchsia pests. Most often, fuchsias are bothered by whiteflies and spider mites.

Fuchsia - types

Fuchsia fulgens

Fuchsia fulgens. Found naturally in the Mexican mountains. These are one to two meter evergreen shrubs with bare branched shoots. The leaves are large, elongated egg-shaped or heart-shaped; they reach 20 cm in length and 12 cm in width, not pubescent, serrated along the edge. Reddish flowers grow in pendulous racemes at the top of the shoots; the corolla tube tapers towards the base and reaches a length of up to 10 cm; petals are up to 10 cm long. The fruit is pronounced edible berry. The flowering period is all summer.

Bolivian Fuchsia / Fuchsia boliviana

Bolivian fuchsia (Fuchsia boliviana). It lives in the mountainous regions of Argentina, Ecuador and Bolivia. Evergreen shrubs growing in height up to a little over 1 m. The leaves are pointed at the apex, ovoid or elliptical in shape with small jagged edges, reaching 15 cm in length and 6 cm in width. It blooms in early to mid-spring with dark red 1-cm flowers collected in apical racemes.

Fuchsia Magellanica / Fuchsia magellanica

Fuchsia magellanica. Also known as multicolored fuchsia (Fuchsia discolor) or conical fuchsia (Fuchsia conica). Shrubs growing in height from 2 to 5 m. The shoots are slightly pubescent, purple in color. The leaves grow either in whorls of 3 or alternately, reach a length of up to 5 cm, are ovate-lanceolate, serrated at the edges, covered with purple veins. The flowers are axillary and grow either singly or in groups of 4. The corolla tube is reddish, and the petals are bluish-purple. The flowering period is from late spring to late summer.

Fuchsia corymbiflora

Fuchsia corymbiflora. It lives on mountain slopes in Ecuador and Peru. Shrubs with straight stems grow up to 5 m in height. Leaves up to 17 cm long and up to 7 cm wide, oval shape, slightly pubescent, smooth edge, central vein red. The calyx tube is red, the petals are purple. Flowering period is July-August.

Common fuchsia diseases and their treatment

Fuchsia diseases are quite rare in proper care behind the plant. In most cases, if some not very serious mistakes were made, if they are corrected in a timely manner, the fuchsias return to normal on their own. But still, any gardener who has this wonderful flower on his windowsill should know what causes such a plant and how to properly treat it.

With proper care for fuchsia, you can avoid any diseases.

All fuchsia diseases can be divided into two categories. The first category includes diseases associated with improper care, and the second - with damage to the flower by pests and fungi. But most often fuchsia gets sick if there are factors from both the first and second categories. Strong plant less susceptible even to pest attacks.

Diseases from mistakes in care

First, let's look at the main signs of diseases of the leaves and root system of fuchsias, the appearance of which is caused by improper care. Often these signs appear quite quickly, and it is important to notice them in time in order to save the plant from death.

A plant's root system can tell a lot. If fuchsia has white, hard roots, the plant is healthy. But when the roots become soft and brown, this indicates the presence of root rot in the soil. This often happens due to improper, excessive watering; even good drainage cannot help.

If improperly watered, fuchsia may develop root rot.

To solve this problem, you should rinse the roots well with warm water, cut off the rotten parts, and then put the fuchsia in a glass of clean water for a while. As soon as healthy white roots begin to grow, the plant can be replanted in new soil.

Often the flower begins to grow poorly, but at the same time its root system is quite developed: there are many long roots that entwine the entire earthen ball. Most likely, the fuchsia simply needs to be transplanted into a larger container. As soon as you do this, the plant will grow again.

Fuchsia leaves can also indicate many diseases. Often a plant gets sick from a lack of some nutrients in the soil. So, if small brown spots appear on the leaves, which begin to dry out over time, this indicates a lack of molybdenum in the soil. Yellow veins on the leaf indicate a lack of manganese.

But the pallor of the leaves and their lethargy indicate an insufficient amount of nitrogen in the substrate. To cure a plant, it will be enough to simply feed it with fertilizer containing the component that is most lacking.

But fuchsia can also get sick from pests, which most often attack the plant in the summer.

This happens because spores and insects carrying pathogenic bacteria for indoor flowers fly into open windows.

Whitefly infestation

The appearance of sugary drops on the leaves indicates a whitefly infection.

During the hot season, whiteflies often fly into apartment windows. This harmful insect is a very small butterfly, barely visible to the naked eye. In a short period of time, she lays tiny eggs on the back of the fuchsia leaves. It is almost impossible to notice them, but fuchsia reacts to this immediately.

Sugary, sticky small drops begin to appear on the leaves, the number of which constantly increases, even if you wash the plant. After hatching from the eggs, the larvae of this butterfly begin to simply suck the juice from the leaves of the plant, which as a result leads to their rather rapid yellowing and falling off.

All this happens so quickly that you may not even notice when the pests take hold of the stem. Immediately, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear, you should wash the fuchsia well in warm water and laundry soap, paying most attention to the stem and the underside of the leaves. Wherein root system It is better to protect with plastic wrap, as it does not tolerate soap.

If the whitefly has recently appeared, two such events are usually enough, after which the fuchsia begins to grow normally again. But if this does not help, you should resort to more serious methods. Plants need processing; Angara or Kontellik are suitable for this. They should be sprayed on the leaves and stem of the plant, as written in the instructions.

Spider mites and rust

If the air in the room where fuchsia grows is very warm and dry at the same time, then red spider mites may appear. The main symptoms of fuchsia infection are a gray coating on the underside of the leaves, a large number of black dots, and the finest cobwebs.

It is not always possible to get rid of such a pest using bath procedures alone. Therefore, it is best to immediately use the drug Fitoverm or Fufanon for treatment. In this case, you should strictly follow the instructions. In most cases, spraying has to be done more than once to completely rid the fuchsia of the mite.

During infection with such a pest, it is necessary to immediately isolate the plant from other flowers. To completely prevent infection, it is important to periodically treat the leaves with special insecticides during the hot season. This will be an excellent prevention of the disease.

Fuchsia is often also affected by rust, which appears as brown spots on the leaves. This is a very contagious disease, so the plant must be treated immediately. All affected leaves are removed completely, the plant is washed with warm water and laundry soap, and then treated special means against this disease. It is very important to disinfect everything general tools to care for plants and temporarily isolate fuchsia from other flowers. You should also wash your hands thoroughly after removing diseased leaves before touching the flower again.

So, the main diseases of fuchsia are considered. These are the most common ailments of this plant, which, if detected in a timely manner, can be successfully cured. The slightest delay can cause the fuchsia to quickly wither and die.

Sharing beauty! I wish you all a good mood, a rich harvest and sunshine!

And some more information about fuchsia pests and measures to combat them!

Whitefly

The most common pest of fuchsias is the whitefly.

These are small (up to 2mm) white flies. They got their generic name because both pairs of wings are covered with white pollen. Externally they look like a microscopic moth. Large colonies of these insects, adults and larvae, live on the lower surface of the leaf. They are easy to notice because... when shaking the foliage of the plant, the flies fly up en masse.

The larva has 4 instars. In the first, she is mobile, with legs and antennae. Its task is to find a suitable place for attachment on the sheet.

In subsequent instars, the larva is no longer motionless: it firmly “sucks” to the leaf and sucks out the juice through a stylet immersed in the tissue. During this period, the larva resembles a transparent flat scale.

During mass reproduction, such scale larvae completely cover the leaves. The consequences of this lesion are yellowing of the leaves, shredding of flowers, and drying out of the shoots. Like other sucking insects, the whitefly secretes sweet honeydew on which sooty fungi develop. The whitefly is also dangerous as a carrier of viruses that cause plant diseases.

At the fourth instar, the larva turns into a pupa. It changes greatly, becomes convex, opaque, covered with waxy secretions on top

After molting, the pupa turns into an adult insect.

There are several types of whitefly: citrus, greenhouse, tobacco.

Citrus whitefly harms subtropical trees and shrubs in the south Krasnodar region and in greenhouses.

The greenhouse whitefly is a species of tropical origin. Does not overwinter in open ground. But in greenhouses it is harmful all year round. Gives 5-7 generations per year.

Tobacco (or cotton) - outwardly does not differ from the greenhouse one, but has some peculiarities in development. It is highly resistant to pesticides.

Control measures

Good results are obtained by watering all plants with Aktara 3-4 times. (4g of the drug per 5 liters of water)

Plant sap becomes fatal to pests. Repeated treatment is necessary because after treatment only those stages of the pest that feed on the plant sap die.

It is better to alternate treatments with Aktara and Confidor. Since the use of only one drug can contribute to the emergence of a resistant generation of the pest.

Washing plants with soapy water also complements insecticides well. This solution should be left on the plant for about 1 hour, and then rinse the plant with lukewarm water, manually washing off the larvae on the underside of the leaves.

To reduce the number of adult insects, you can use yellow glue strip traps, where insects fall when disturbed by shaking the foliage. But only the use of insecticides gives a guaranteed result

Red spider mite

It's very small arthropod insect(0.25-0.4mm) reddish in color, found on the underside of leaves.

The mite sucks the juices from the plant. The surface of the leaves is first covered with individual pale spots, gradually the area of damage increases, the spots merge, the leaves turn yellow and die. A barely noticeable white web sometimes appears under the leaves. Very often, the mite becomes active in dry conditions at high plant temperatures.

Control measures

Treat (spray) the plant with the preparations "Agravertin", "Fitoverm", "Confidor".
Remove affected leaves.

Prevention: Frequently spray fuchsia with warm water.

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Common fuchsia diseases and their treatment

Fuchsia diseases are quite rare if the plant is properly cared for. In most cases, if some not very serious mistakes were made, if they are corrected in a timely manner, the fuchsias return to normal on their own. But still, any gardener who has this wonderful flower on his windowsill should know what causes such a plant and how to properly treat it.

With proper care for fuchsia, you can avoid any diseases.

All fuchsia diseases can be divided into two categories. The first category includes diseases associated with improper care, and the second - with damage to the flower by pests and fungi. But most often fuchsia gets sick if there are factors from both the first and second categories. A strong plant is even less susceptible to attack by pests.

Diseases from mistakes in care

If improperly watered, fuchsia may develop root rot.

But fuchsia can also get sick from pests, which most often attack the plant in the summer.

This happens because spores and insects carrying pathogenic bacteria for indoor flowers fly into open windows.

Return to contents

Whitefly infestation

The appearance of sugary drops on the leaves indicates a whitefly infection.

All this happens so quickly that you may not even notice when the pests take hold of the stem. Immediately, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear, you should wash the fuchsia well in warm water and laundry soap, paying most attention to the stem and the underside of the leaves. In this case, it is better to protect the root system with plastic wrap, since it does not tolerate soap.

Perennial fuchsia, which is completely easy to grow and care for at home, has earned popularity among many gardeners for its decorativeness and unpretentiousness.

This very beautiful, brightly flowering indoor plant belongs to the fireweed family. Its wild ancestors and relatives grow in the mountain forests of South and Central America, New Zealand, Tahiti and the Falkland Islands. It began to conquer Europe in the 17th century, when the French botanist Charles Plumiere developed a spectacular garden crop from a wild weed plant.

Fuchsia in home growing conditions is a low evergreen shrub that grows up to 80 centimeters. It cannot be confused with any other indoor plant, its flowers are so unusual. Because of their shape, they are often compared to Chinese lanterns. Delicate sepals and petals are colored bright colors, and the flower itself surprises with its unreal beauty, as if it were not a creation of nature, but a fantastic idea of a needlewoman.

Modern indoor fuchsia has hanging, bush or standard varieties. Its leaves are most often opposite, less often whorled, and even less often alternate. They have a lanceolate or ovoid shape, the edges are serrated, crenate, or solid.

Gracefully shaped flowers hang down on thin, rather long stalks. The calyx of the flower is tubular, above which four lobes are located horizontally or bent upward. Often the calyx and lobes differ in color. The stamens and pistil, thin and long, protruding significantly outward, are the finishing touch.

Types and varieties of fuchsia photo

At home growing Fuchsia usually uses about 2000 hybrid varieties, including upright shrubs, subshrubs, ampelous, dwarf and standard plants. It is in hybrids that the corolla and calyx have the greatest number of color combinations, as well as a variety of types of flowers - double, semi-double or simple, large or small.

Large-flowered hybrid varieties of indoor fuchsias are often united by a common name for them - beautiful or beautiful fuchsia, this is the result of crossing brilliant and sparkling fuchsia.

Among the small-flowered fuchsias, the following groups are most often found:

F. trifolia is a hybrid that is a low, well-branched bush. The ovoid oblong leaves are very decorative in color: they have a reddish tint on top and brownish-red below. the flowers are long and narrow, bell-shaped, most often painted in bright red and orange tones. This species blooms from May to October. Looks good in hanging pots.
F. magellanica, suitable for large premises, and also for open ground, as it can reach 3 meters in height. The leaves are small, the flowers are axillary. Tolerates frost if pruned and securely covered.
F. recumbent is the ancestor of hanging hybrids and varieties. Small flowers, unlike many of its relatives, are directed upward. It can also be grown in standard form, but is more often used for grafting onto standard forms.
F. brilliant (sparkling) is an evergreen bush, the branches become woody, and in the lower part they often acquire a reddish-brown tint. Blooms profusely from June to October, the fruits are edible.
F. graceful, with shoots looking down. The flowers seem to float on thread-like, very thin stalks. Their corolla is usually red-violet, the calyx is colored red or pink, and the pistil and stamens are bright red.
F. boliviana is distinguished by its abundant early flowering– from March or April. Inflorescences reach a length of 30 centimeters. She needs warm rooms.

f. triphylla (f. tryohlistnaya)

f. fulgens (f. brilliantashhaya)

Hybrid fuchsia varieties intended for indoor growing, it is simply impossible to list - there are more than two thousand of them, each more beautiful and elegant than the other.

The most common varieties of hybrid fuchsia:

'Alfred de Groot', erect, pink-purple petals-petals and soft pink sepals;
“Annabel” - bushy and ampelous, its flowers are large, double, with a white “skirt” and sepals, colored from white to soft pink;
“Ballerina” is an erect plant, with scarlet sepals and a lush white or pale pink “skirt”;
“Cecile” is an erect bush, with densely double flowers, soft red sepals, in a bluish-lilac “skirt” with a wavy edge;
“Marinka” is an ampelous fuchsia, its bright red flowers are simple, but always in huge quantities;
“Prince of Peace is an ampelous variety with simple flowers, very decoratively colored - bright red or purple corolla-skirt with white sepals;
“Santa Clara” is also an ampelous variety, large, double flowers, a cherry-colored “skirt” with white transitions and white sepals;
“Voodoo” is erect, the flowers are large, densely double, the “skirt” has a dark blue-violet color, and the sepals are bright red.

Rules for caring for home fuchsia

f. microphylla (f. melkolistnaya)

Location and lighting

Heat-loving fuchsia is predisposed to good lighting. Therefore, a place for it should be chosen on window sills positioned on the sunny side - western and eastern. Windows facing south are also suitable, but it would be better to place the plant not on the windowsill, but on a stand next to the window.

In any case, in the summer fuchsias need to be shaded a little, as this forest plant, and direct sunlight is harmful to it. For shading, it will be enough to cover the glass with ordinary plastic film - to create the effect of frosted glass.

Important! You need to prepare the shading in advance, since during flowering the fuchsia cannot be moved or rotated. Otherwise, it will drop all the flowers and buds.

If fuchsia lacks light, its shoots will become excessively elongated, which will negatively affect both the condition of the plant and its appearance.

Air temperature and humidity

During the period of active growth and flowering, fuchsia needs warmth. It will be satisfied with a temperature of up to a maximum of 26˚C; it is undesirable to allow it to exceed this figure, as it may begin to wither and drop flowers. In winter, temperatures from 16 to 20˚C are suitable for fuchsia. Sometimes she is even moved to rooms with a temperature of 10-12˚C so that she can rest well.

Important! At any time of the year, fuchsia should be protected from drafts.

The acceptable level of air humidity for fuchsia is from 40 to 60%. And if exceeding the desired level for some time is acceptable, then too dry air will cause the leaves to wilt and the stalks to dry out. Therefore, in hot weather, fuchsia should be sprayed with soft water at least 2 times a day, or even better, place a wide-necked container of water next to it.

In winter, the high humidity of fuchsia is necessary, and even harmful, so no additional measures It is not necessary to take it to hydrate the plant.

Watering rules

Watering during the active growth of fuchsia and its flowering should be plentiful. It is carried out as the top layer of soil dries. To avoid problems with roots, excess water should be drained immediately. During the dormant period (winter), fuchsia is watered less frequently - once every 5-6 days. In October-November you can water less often.

Important! To water fuchsia, soft, well-settled water is required, since it does not tolerate acidification or, conversely, salinity of the soil.

Substrate for fuchsia and its feeding

The substrate usually contains peat, well-rotted mullein, leaf soil, as well as alumina and sand. All components are taken in equal parts. You can purchase ready-made soil, sold in flower shops.

Important! Any substrate is depleted approximately one and a half to two months after planting.

Fuchsias begin to be fertilized from the moment the first buds appear. Mineral fertilizers applied once a week, in liquid form. Moreover, they should not contain nitrogen, in as a last resort, its quantity should be minimal. Fertilizers need to be applied at wet soil. As winter approaches, fertilizing is reduced and then stopped until spring.

Important! When feeding fuchsia with organic matter, its concentration should be two times less than recommended according to the instructions. Otherwise, the fuchsia will not bloom.

Fuchsia should be fed with organic matter no more than once a month.

f. coccinea (f. yarko-krasnaya)

Fuchsia transplant

Typically, fuchsia is replanted once a year, in March, before the first buds appear. It is best to choose a container with thick walls for it, for example, ceramic. The pot is taken two to three centimeters in diameter larger than the previous one, but no more. Too much big pot will force the plant to grow root and green mass, but it will bloom worse.

Important! It is imperative to place drainage at the bottom of the fuchsia container so that the roots do not absorb too much water.

A small amount of fresh soil mixture is poured onto the drainage, the plant is transferred from the old pot to the new one along with a lump of soil. The remaining free space is also filled with fresh soil mixture.

Before transplanting, all fuchsia shoots must be shortened by a third. During transplantation, it is necessary to carefully examine the roots and remove any damaged, diseased or showing signs of rot. Healthy plant roots are white.

Trimming and pinching

The optimal number of fuchsia prunings is two per year. The first pruning is done when the plant has finished flowering. At this time, all flower stalks, seed pods, as well as axillary branches that have bloomed and are located at a distance of several centimeters from the dormant buds are removed. Shrunken and broken shoots are also pruned.

The second pruning is winter, it is done when the fuchsia is dormant. This pruning forms the crown of the plant and is also intended to remove excess shoots. Fuchsias are often grown using the bonsai technique; to do this, during winter pruning, you need to leave one or several vertical shoots, which are usually twisted - they will be the trunk.

Forming a fuchsia crown is done not only by pruning shoots. An important role is played by pinching young shoots throughout the entire period of plant growth, but the main emphasis is placed on this in the spring.

Waking up after winter holiday fuchsia begins to actively grow, sending out shoots from each bud. Those that are too elongated need to be pinched so that the fuchsia crown is neat and “combed.”

Important! You should not get carried away with pinching fuchsias: buds form mainly on young shoots, or rather, on their tops.

Usually the ends of the shoots are pinched above the two lower pairs of leaves. When new shoots develop from their axils, pinching is done over the 3rd or 4th pair. Usually this is enough to make the bush neat and produce abundant flowering.

Sometimes fuchsia is grown in standard form. For this purpose, the strongest cutting with a well-developed root system is selected. In this case, pruning is carried out according to following rules: Side shoots are removed to allow the plant to grow straight up. When it has grown to the desired size, the crown is trimmed to allow side branches to grow. As a rule, within three years, rarely more, a beautiful tree strewn with flowers is formed.

Using pruning, you can postpone the flowering time of fuchsia, for example, make fuchsia bloom in winter. This is achieved by summer pruning of the plant. Fuchsia should be kept in a dark and cool room until the beginning of summer, and then regularly pruned every three months so as to prevent it from forming buds. It will need to be left alone in the fall and will bloom vigorously.

Important! Winter flowering of fuchsia requires watering and fertilizing in the summer.

Care for fuchsia in winter

Winter for fuchsia is a period of rest. The best temperature for the plant at this time is 16-20 C; the humidity that is available in the room where it is located will be sufficient. It is not recommended to spray fuchsia during this period. You also need to reduce watering, and after flowering has finished, do not water it at all for several weeks.

f. paniculata (f. metelchataya)

In winter, fertilizers are not applied, and it is not recommended to replant the plant. But these days are the most suitable for formative pruning of bushes, which is usually carried out in January.

Important! Warm wintering (in a room familiar to fuchsia) sometimes causes the plant to shed its leaves and shoots may stretch out.

If possible, for the winter fuchsia is moved to a room with a temperature of 8-10˚C. This is done after autumn pruning, and in this case you also need to trim the leaves. If you place the plant in an even colder room - 3-5˚C, it will go dormant during the winter, and its growth will stop for the entire period of being in the cold. A pleasant feature of fuchsia is that during the dormant period it is completely indifferent to the level of lighting, so it can winter in dark rooms.

Fuchsia propagation

Fuchsia can be propagated in one of three ways: collecting and planting seeds, cuttings, and growing seedlings from leaves.

Seeds as a way to propagate fuchsia

This option may be interesting for those who want to have new interesting flower colors. To get full-fledged seeds, you need to carry out artificial pollination yourself. The staminate anthers of the mother flower must be removed. The pollen in the stigma of the pistil is brought from the parent plant.

After pollination, the mother flower needs to be “packed” - put a cover made of light fabric on it and carefully attach it to the branch with a thread. When the seed capsule is ripe, it is very carefully removed with tweezers, cut and the seeds are removed.

Important! The probability of preserving varietal characteristics when growing fuchsias from seeds is zero. This method is good for obtaining new varieties.

The seeds need to be dried for several days, and then they are sown on moist soil. Best timing sowing fuchsia seeds - February. The container with the planted seeds is placed in a well-lit place. The plantings are ventilated daily for 15 minutes.

The seedlings appear after a few weeks; they will now require daily spraying and longer ventilation so that they can adapt to normal indoor conditions. One and a half to two month old seedlings need to be pruned to give them more space.

After another two months, the picked seedlings are planted in separate pots and placed in a permanent place that fully corresponds to the conditions for growing fuchsia.

Propagation by cuttings

This is one of the best ways to propagate fuchsia, especially for those who are doing this for the first time. Typically, cuttings are taken at the end of the dormant period - February or early March. The stalk must be at least 12 centimeters long, with several leaves. The lower ones are removed, the upper ones are shortened by about half.

Important! The cuttings should be lignified, with healthy buds.

The cutting is placed in a container with water, which must be settled, soft, preferably boiled, and covered plastic bag or a suitable size transparent container. It is advisable to dissolve the tablet in water activated carbon, it will prevent possible rotting.

This method is great for ordinary and ampelous varieties. Its advantage is that you can monitor the condition of the roots, which is useful for beginner lovers of beautiful flowers.

Important! The air temperature during rooting should be maintained at 20˚C, and the container with cuttings should be in a well-lit place. The cuttings need to be sprayed daily and the water changed every two days.

Roots on cuttings usually appear within 5-10 days, after which they need to be planted in individual pots in prepared soil. For young seedlings, small containers with a diameter of up to 7 centimeters are suitable.

Cuttings can also be rooted in sand or other loose soil. The cuttings are buried so that the lower nodules are not
touched the ground. In this case, the roots will appear in three or four weeks, after which they can be planted in separate pots.

Cuttings of slow-growing varieties can be taken at the end of summer. In this case, by spring the cuttings will have grown so much that they can be transplanted into pots.

It is also permissible to cut fuchsia in winter, when its crown is cut off to form it. Suitable ones are selected from the cut branches; in this case, rooting is best done in the sand.

Important! In the last two cases, the seedlings need to be provided with additional lighting, and their temperature and humidity must be maintained according to the “summer” regulations.

Propagation of fuchsia by leaf

Sometimes it happens that propagation by cuttings is impossible for some reason. In this case, you can use its leaves. To do this, large healthy leaves with petioles and part of the shoot with a bud are cut off. They are buried a centimeter into the ground and covered with a transparent lid. So for the leaves will be provided high humidity and constant temperature. During the period of growing fuchsia bushes from them, the leaves need to be sprayed daily.

Young fuchsia rosettes appear in 2-3 weeks. From now on, you only need to cover the sprouts at night. When they grow and become stronger, they are carefully separated from the leaf and planted in separate pots. Further care caring for them is similar to caring for rooted cuttings.

Pests and diseases of fuchsia, treatment

Fuchsia pests and methods of controlling them

Fuchsia itself is quite resistant to pests. But this is not a reason to relax: even the most resistant plants are sometimes attacked by pests, even indoors. Enemy number one is the whitefly, a type of moth, an insect up to 2 mm in size with white wings. Her favorite environment is a combination high temperature And high humidity. She lays eggs on the lower part of the leaves, the larvae developing from them suck the juices of the plant, secreting a sticky sugary secretion. In addition to the harm from sucking the juices out of the fuchsia, sooty fungus often settles in these secretions.

To get rid of whiteflies, you have to use chemicals– Aktellik, Aktara and others, but in indoors It's better to use other options. Washing the leaves with a soapy solution and then rinsing with clean water is often used.

This “bath” procedure must be repeated several times. Treating affected plants with a decoction of dandelion roots and leaves or garlic infusion gives good results. To make the effect of these infusions last longer, a soap solution is added to them.

Important! Regular warm showers for the entire plant will help prevent insect attacks.

In hot, dry weather, fuchsia is threatened by spider mites. In this case, the plants begin to lag in growth, their apical parts dry out. The mite also settles on the lower part of the leaves, entwining them with a thin web.

To combat it, use Fitoverm, Akarin, etc. From folk remedies Wiping leaves is effective medical alcohol, spraying with a soap solution or infusion of garlic or a decoction of onion peels.

Important! Excessively damaged leaves and shoots must be removed.

Fuchsias can also be attacked by aphids and thrips. In any case, when indoor plants are damaged by insects, the best helpers are good old garlic and onions - they can help in the fight against almost all pests.

Fuchsia diseases and their treatment

With proper care, fuchsias are almost never affected by diseases. However, systematic violation of the watering regime, temperature or humidity can cause flower disease.

The best indicator of the health of a fuchsia is its roots. If they are firm and white, the plant is healthy. Soft and brown - a manifestation of root rot, the result of excessive watering. In this case, the roots should be thoroughly and carefully washed in warm water, all rotten parts should be removed and the fuchsia should be moved from the pot with soil to a container with water for a while. When new white roots begin to grow, it can be planted again in fresh soil.

Often root diseases are associated with overheating. This process is easy to prevent. Firstly, it is best to grow fuchsias in ceramic pots– they do not overheat. If used plastic container, it should be white.

If there is no white (light) pot, you can protect the roots from overheating by wrapping the dark pot in thick white paper or foil. Secondly, in the summer, you need to put a screen in front of the fuchsia pots, which will protect the pots, and, consequently, the roots, from excess heat.

Important! In summer, fuchsia is watered either early in the morning or in the evening. Watering in daytime not only can cause burns to the leaves, but also overheating of the roots.

Often the cause of the disease is a lack of microelements in the soil mixture. Brown spots on the leaves that dry out over time is a sign of molybdenum deficiency. Distinct yellow veins - fuchsia lacks manganese. Yellow leaves with green veins – low iron. In this case, it is necessary to introduce the missing elements into the fertilizing in the form of chelates.

Important! In the summer, fuchsia is often affected by other diseases that are carried through the air by spores.

Rust appears as dark brown spots on the leaves. If its signs are detected, fuchsia must be immediately isolated from all other plants, and all affected leaves and flower parts must be completely removed. The next stage is to thoroughly wash the entire bush with a warm solution of laundry or green soap. Only after these procedures should fuchsia be sprayed with medicinal preparations.

Important! All tools that were used to remove damaged parts of the plant, as well as the place where it stood, must be disinfected.

Also, violation of the rules of care can lead to the appearance of powdery mildew: Poor drainage or overwatering. In this case, it is necessary to treat fuchsia by spraying it with foundationazole (1 gram dissolves in a liter of water) or other fungicides.

Possible problems with growing fuchsias

Problems with fuchsia most often arise due to violations of the rules for its maintenance.

1. If leaves, buds and flowers begin to fall:

the temperature is too high for the plant - lower the temperature by 2-3 degrees;
low air humidity - you need to spray more often;
the watering regime is disrupted - normally, fuchsia is watered once every 2-3 days, provided the soil is constantly moist;
the plant is in a draft - protect it at least with a light screen;
the pot with fuchsia has been rearranged or turned - fuchsia really doesn’t like this, you’ll just have to wait until it gets used to it.

2. Leaves turn yellow or brown: waterlogged soil, especially in winter. To bring fuchsia into order, it is enough to reduce watering.

3. Leaves turn yellow and fall off: attack by pests, most likely whiteflies. It is urgent to take measures to eliminate pests.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

What to do in such cases? Where to look for the reason? The reason most often lies in improper care. It may be excess moisture that causes the roots to rot. In this case, you need to adjust the watering. Fuchsia will not produce flowers even if it does not have enough light. Since it is sensitive to rearrangements, you must initially take care of sufficient lighting. If the flower is located near the north window, the only way to help is with additional light sources.

If a plant lacks trace elements, it will also respond by not flowering. But it is also necessary to remember that excess nitrogen also leads to this. Therefore, fertilizing must be strictly balanced. In winter, the suitable temperature for fuchsia was not provided - it was too hot. In this case, you can help by carefully moving it to a room with a lower temperature for several days.

A pot that is too large is a common reason for lack of flowers. When there is excess space at the roots, they grow first, then the leaves. This is where all the plant’s energy goes. There is only one way out - to transplant the fuchsia into a smaller container.

Final part

Bright, beautifully blooming fuchsia not only decorates living room. It evokes positive emotions, clears the premises of clots negative energy. It is believed that this plant helps develop intuition, causes an increase in energy and vitality.

f. splendens (f. sverkayushhaya)

Growing and caring for this plant at home evokes reciprocal love and warmth from the fuchsia itself, filling it with charm and energetic health. Growing in the house, it reduces the risk of serious diseases in its owners.