Orchard (35 photos): selection of site, seedlings and planting. Tales about vegetables and fruits Small orchard work

Traditional country cottage area It’s hard to imagine without vegetable beds, fruit bushes and trees. This triumvirate determines its content and serves as the main content, without which the territory becomes somehow irregular. Let's leave the first two types outside the scope of the article, and today we will learn about how to properly plant Orchard so that in a few years you can get fresh and tasty fruits from it.

Is it worth doing?

The answer will be unequivocal - it’s definitely worth it. In addition, the orchard will also decorate the summer cottage and create shaded places in which it will be pleasant to spend time during the summer heat.

Also, one should not discount the visual component, especially during the flowering period, when fruit trees are dotted with pink and white flowers, filling the atmosphere with aroma. We strongly recommend that gardeners do not put off planting fruit seedlings, then after 2-3 years you will have self-grown, environmentally friendly vitamins on your table.

In this article we will answer three questions:

how to properly plant an orchard on a summer cottage;
what seedlings to pay attention to and when is the best time to plant them;
how to choose the right place for an apple or pear tree.

Selecting a site for planting fruit trees

Let's start with the most popular mistake of novice gardeners - they try to plant trees on the site as they consider necessary and convenient for them. They do not carry out any calculations of distances to nearby objects, which will later “come back to bite.”

A typical situation is that a small and neat pear suddenly turns into a giant plant, which not only makes it difficult to move around the yard, but also covers it with its fruits. The result is that you have to fight off stinging insects all day, which turn country holiday not a vacation at all. Experience shows that fruit trees are usually cut down at the dacha not because they have become old, but because they were planted unsuccessfully at the very beginning.

Tip: remember, adult apple trees can have a crown measuring 6x8m, stone fruit trees can have a crown measuring 3x5m.

Plant fruit trees no closer than 5 m from the house. In this case, even the largest root system will not be able to destroy the foundation of the building in the future, in addition, the branches in windy weather will also not irritate with their knocking, but most importantly, they will not break the slate and brick pipe.
You shouldn’t plant a tree next to a path either - the roots of the plant can destroy it after some time, and the branches will make the passage too difficult.

There is no need to allocate space for an orchard right next to the garden, otherwise you will simply give half the harvest to your neighbors. This can also become a convenient “entrance” into your territory for intruders. In addition, a conflict between neighbors often begins over branches, ending in destruction. good wood. It’s better to step back 4 m from the fence.
Row spacing in the garden fruit trees should be like this for:

apple and pear trees - 6x4 m, for dwarf varieties distance – 4x3 m;
plums and cherries – 3x2.5 m.

Advice: in this case, there should be at least three meters to the fence.

- 3-6 m, since only weeds can grow under such a thick crown, and nothing at all under a nut.
Place the future orchard in the northern part of the garden - it will not shade the area so much and will also provide protection vegetable beds from cold winds.
On an uneven landscape with a slope, give the lowland to plum - it is winter-hardy and requires high humidity soil, the middle - for cherries, cherries, apricots and peaches, the top - for sea buckthorn and drought-resistant plants.

Advice: sanitary instructions for planting trees in cities require that pear and apple trees should not be planted closer than 5 m from the house.

How to choose seedlings

So that you don’t lose your head in the market from the variety of offers, we recommend that you weigh everything well at home and write it down on a piece of paper.

When choosing which fruit trees grow in the garden, know that the most popular in middle lane will be like this:

Apple tree;
pear;
cherries;
cherry;
plum;
Walnut.

In the south, the choice is much greater, so you can add quince, peach, cherry plum. But whatever you decide to purchase, carefully study the condition of the plant.

Today, seedlings are usually grafted trees.

They have:

rootstock – bottom part with root and part of the trunk. It is grown from rooted cuttings or seeds;
scion - the above-ground part.

Thanks to this symbiosis, it is possible to obtain plants from different varieties, best qualities each of which complement each other. When choosing a fruit tree seedling, we recommend paying attention to the following parameters:

Age	No one forbids purchasing a fruit-bearing seedling that is 10 years old. But, buy these tall trees only with big lump earth or in a tub, otherwise they will die. Transporting such seedlings will also be difficult. We recommend paying attention to 1-2 year old plants. In this case, the age of the tree should be determined by the scion.
Barrel diameter	The standard serves to support the tree crown and is responsible for delivering useful substances to branches and leaves. Diameter of a healthy apple tree seedling two years of age– 20 mm, height – about 500 mm. For low-growing stone fruit trees – it should be at least 10 mm. Make sure that the trunk is smooth, without damage or growths.
Escapes	The main thing is their number and length. One-year-old seedlings may not have them at all, while two-year-old seedlings may have at least 3 branches.
Root system	Length of main roots: on seed rootstocks – at least 300 mm; on vegetatively propagated ones – 250 mm. The roots should be free of cracks and sagging.

Advice: it is most profitable to purchase annual seedlings, the price of which is lower and they take root better.
Also remember, buy tree varieties that are native to your area or grown in similar climates.

How to plant seedlings

Before planting, prepare fertilizers in advance so that the tree can take root better in its new location. Also, be sure to soak it in water for a while to restore the moisture lost during the time spent in the market and on the trip. Fertilizer should be filled in one third of the prepared hole.

Advice: make sure that mineral fertilizers do not come directly onto root system tree, otherwise it may get burned and not take root in a new place.

Prepare for apples and pears:

compost – 20-30 l;
peat crumbs – 30-40 l;
granulated superphosphate – 1 kg;
wood ash – 1 kg or potassium sulfate – 150 g.

For plums and cherries:

humus – 10-20 l;
granulated superphosphate – 300 g;
potassium chloride – 40 g;
wood ash - approximately 400 g.

Tip: you can replace mineral fertilizers with 2-3 buckets of humus.
In addition, remove broken roots before planting, and cut off the ends of others.

It is better to carry out planting work together - the first one holds the seedling in vertical position, the other - pours earth and compacts it to secure it. Make sure that the root collar is level with the soil surface.

Tip: each seedling must be secured using pegs dug nearby.

The penultimate stage is abundant watering, approximately 20-22 liters per tree. Then the soil must be mulched with sawdust, humus, peat or straw.

Conclusion

Green spaces not only please the eye, but also bring noticeable benefits, especially for fruit trees. This article told you the basic wisdom of gardeners that will help you plant an orchard with your own hands. Believe me, this will be one of the most significant events in your life, which will remain after you. The video in this article will help you find Additional information on this topic.

It’s hard to imagine decorating a personal plot or cottage without fruit trees. In order for the plantings to live for a long time and constantly bear fruit abundantly, it is necessary not only to know how to plant an orchard, but also to choose the right crops and varieties.

It’s hard to imagine that at the dacha or personal plot not a single fruit tree will grow. The incomparable pleasure of filming own harvest, therefore, the first priority of a summer resident is to find out how to properly plant an orchard.

Planning land for placing fruit trees

An orchard on a site can occupy a central place or be small. This largely depends on the area of the plot and the desires of the owners. In order for the garden to bring only benefit and pleasure in the future, before it is laid out, you need to draw up a planting plan and select suitable plants.

How to do proper garden The area itself will tell you. In the lowlands, trees will not survive the harsh winter, and in the spring they will suffer during flowering due to returning frosts. On a high hill tender plants They will get sick because of the winds.

A southern or southwestern slope, well warmed by the sun, is ideal for fruit crops. Sensitive plants are planted in the center of the garden, and larger and more resistant plants are planted around the perimeter.

How to start laying out an orchard on a site

First of all, the soil is carefully cultivated and prepared. Trees are planted on permanent place, so planting holes are dug large and filled with plenty of organic matter and minerals complex fertilizers long-acting.

When planting, the roots of the trees are carefully distributed, and the plant itself is tied to a strong, deeply driven stake. It guarantees quick establishment of the plant, which will not sway in the wind.

After planting, trunk circles are formed and the trees are watered abundantly. It is most rational to keep the garden under turf, leaving only the trunk circles clean, but during the first years in the garden you can plant garden crops while the trees are still small.

Selecting suitable types of fruit trees for your home garden

IN big garden you can turn around and plant whatever your heart desires. Being small imposes its own limitations. You need to choose only those breeds that are in demand in your family. Most often this apple, pear, plum and cherry trees.

Be sure to read

All these trees can be either tall or short. For small sizes It is better to take compact plants and plant them so that the crowns do not intertwine, shading each other.

Choosing the right fruit varieties

Preference should be given to plants suitable for climatic conditions and least susceptible to diseases and pest attacks.

You need to choose varieties that your family loves, for example, sweet apples, not sour ones, and vice versa. It is enough to plant one or two trees with different fruiting periods, for use during the season and at winter storage.

Planting secrets from experienced gardeners

To make gardening a pleasure, choose planting material wisely. Do not plant tall trees, they take up a lot of space, and birds will still pick the fruits from the tops for you. Do not thicken the plantings; the trees will become sick and bear little fruit. You see examples in the photo.

To obtain productive and beautiful orchard, you need to plan in advance exactly how your fruit trees and shrubs will be located in order to provide them optimal conditions, and accordingly, prepare fertile soil for them.

To get it right choose a place for an orchard, you need to know its illumination in different time days. In the spring, watching how the snow melts, you can evaluate the advantages or disadvantages of the site associated with the relief. For example, where does the snow last the longest?
The prevailing wind direction is also important. How are large buildings located?

The best places to set up a garden are the south-eastern or southern sides of the site. A little worse, but also suitable - southwestern or eastern directions. The most important thing: your orchard should not be in the shade, and fruit trees should not greatly shade the house or any important areas - for example, recreation areas.

Unfortunately, there are places with good conditions, but completely unfavorable for planting - even plants grow poorly on them. Such areas cannot be used for fruit plantings.

It is best if you make a plan in advance, where you note the approximate location of such places and any special conditions. Such a plan will schematically convey general form your site and will help you understand the problems. On the same plane later youyou can mark future plantings. This is done in the same way - you can create several options, and as a result, select one of them.

The following must be taken into account. It is better to place the tallest fruit trees in the lowest part of the site, and the highest points are a more suitable place for berry bushes. They are more unpretentious. Another important point: in placelandings fruit seedlings Fruit trees of a similar type should not grow for at least two years. Better yet, let the soil in this place rest for three years.

Never plant fruit crops in close proximity to foundations and greenhouses. This is unfavorable for the root system, and burns are possible from greenhouse glass. Fortree plantingThe following distances are usually observed:

apple trees - 3-4 m, pears - 2.5-3 m, plums - 2 m, cherry trees planted at intervals of at least 2.5 m, currants or gooseberries - 1.5 -1.8 meters, garden rowan - 3 meters.Raspberries and blackberries are usually planted at a distance of 80 cm.

Every tree needs to be provided trunk circle, the size of which in diameter should be equal to the perimeter of the crown or slightly less (regardless of how you maintain the soil in the garden - under the lawn or under the “black fallow”!). Be sure to keep in mind that fruit trees do not like close proximity groundwater! In this case, the only solution is to plant trees on earth mounds.

From the point of view, the garden should be organically combined with the surrounding landscape, as well as with the house and other buildings on the site, that is, fit into.
How to place trees in the garden? It looks very harmonious; it is not at all necessary to plant trees in rows, as in household plots. Various fruit trees covered with colorful fruits look very decorative. Especiallyeffective when plants with plants are located nearby different flowers, shape and color of the fruit.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank piece of paper in your gardener’s diary you need to sketch out the garden’s proposal. It can be in front, side or back relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north to the south for better lighting and have three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after another or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of the site:

First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this zoning variation. In the first zone we are planting a vegetable garden; its vegetation will not shade the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
In the next zone, it is better to place berry gardens; their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow coming from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
In the third order part we plant fruit. It should be located at a distance of about 3 m from the previous one, so that there is no threat of shading.

In the diary you can record the names and main character of fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate with numbers their location in the garden.

Layout of berry gardens

When laying out a berry garden on a site, you should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Black currant grows normally surrounded by other vegetation, but sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace green fence, and viburnum and hawthorn will decorate the landscape in the leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berry gardens around the perimeter of the plot. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the area with their presence.

The density of berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for optimal development vegetation, its resistance to disease and crop formation:

Raspberries are planted in dense rows, with intervals of half a meter from each other and with intervals of a meter and a half in the rows. As the crimson vegetation grows, it fills the row-spacings; the former row-spacings are cleared of overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the location of the crops by pruning the shoots, returning them three years later to their original growing area.
Yoshta and black currants are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red currants at meter intervals. Large bush vegetation will shade each other; the thorns of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and serviceberry as a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, sometimes even denser, and in a berry garden at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of particular berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to delight the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close the jars for winter storage fragrant jam.

Well planned berry patch It grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants should be transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and forming the crown is also important event. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crop vegetation, allocating approximately 4 square meters for each specimen. from common area. There is no need to thicken the plantings. The plants will grow and become a nuisance to each other.

Let the planting holes be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental garden cultural vegetation in homestead farming.

These species are smaller in size, and produce yields equal to tall cultivated vegetation. These types are easier to care for, they are resistant to illnesses, and are most resistant to frost. Early, middle and late varietal species must grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies throughout the season and so that the grown fruits can be processed and stored for the winter.

Of garden cultivated vegetation, two cherries (early and late) are sufficient. Instead of its average varietal type, it is better to plant two cherries.

They produce harvests following the early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft another species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots, which are frost-resistant varietal species, are enough. Three apple trees; in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species different periods ripening. It is necessary to preserve space for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to delight with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not get sick, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to illnesses, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, and the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with the varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in specialized literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact specialists. A garden that is filled with low-quality vegetation will add more work and hassle, and will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful beds and place them correctly in your garden

Formats

They can be of all kinds; their size can only be limited by the dimensions of the site. The ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or figured. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it; they can be low or high in height.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Bases:

Such ridges are warm. A layer of materials that compost more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste) is placed on the bottom layer of materials that compost quickly (branches, rags, paper, cardboard). Then you should spill it with water and cover it with soil. During the process of decay, the ridge will begin to release heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
The sun's rays will warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
If you want to protect your future harvest from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the bottom layer.
Such ridges do not require digging. After all, they are not dug, but made.
It is possible to harvest crops twice per season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are suitable for processing, as they make maintenance easier. And the length can not be limited. According to Mitlider's method, it is proposed to construct a completely narrow ridges 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners who use this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. As it grows, accessibility to it remains particularly comfortable, and most importantly, it receives the energy of the sun in more, and even in the cloudy summer season the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

A variety of crops can be planted in the beds created by this species: tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening time, When Sun rays The ridges are illuminated from the sides; they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to correctly arrange the ridges in this option?

It is better to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is recommended to place the ridges on the slope on the south side, and garden vegetation on the north side.

Layout

For its literacy you need to consider:

The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetable per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to carry out the plan efficiently.
If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
Plan planting of crops so that taller vegetation is on the northern side of the site. This way, lower species will not grow in shade.

Common mistakes made by a novice gardener:

Through too thick plantings: it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings are thinned in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not have a beneficial effect on its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and diseases. The spaces between the rows and the vegetation in the row (planting patterns) are provided separately for each crop.
Lack of work to eliminate weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because the weed, which is already persistent and actively growing, deprives a significant portion of the nutritional components of the crop.
Vegetable beds in shade: negatively affects the quality of vegetation; some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components when growing in shade. Let the light on the beds in the garden be present for at least 6 hours every day. Vegetation in particular uses afternoon light. This means it’s lucky if they don’t find themselves in the shade at this time.
Overdose of fertilizing: overfed vegetable plants are much more susceptible to illness. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the crop, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. Strict adherence to the timing and norms for adding fertilizers, taking into account the preferences of the crop, is imperative.
Sowing seeds in excessive early dates: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turns out to be cool and humid, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: heat-loving, capricious vegetables (

Spicy peach jam with cinnamon, star anise and cloves. The jam is very thick, aromatic, with transparent pieces of fruit. You will have to tinker a little with processing - you definitely need to peel the skin off the peaches, but the jam is prepared quite quickly. To harvest for the winter, choose ripe peaches without signs of spoilage or visible damage. The peel can be peeled off with a regular vegetable scraper or, as in this recipe, you can scald the fruit with boiling water. Any variety of peaches will do.

Before every owner garden plot The question arises about improving soil quality. Or - at the very beginning when developing the site. Or after a while, because some crops grow well on the site, but others wither, get sick, or refuse altogether. Or because the yield of those crops that previously bore fruit without problems is decreasing. In such cases, they buy a machine of humus, peat, black soil or manure, or go to the store for mineral fertilizers.

The solemn and austere “daisies” of Gatsania are one of the largest and most original among the entire Astrov family. This plant attracts fans of geometry and modern patterns in potted format. And if on the streets, balconies, verandas and terraces gatsaniya seems like a real star, then in quality indoor plant she is very little unknown. Meanwhile, it is Gatsania, of all the bright and fashionable summer plants, that is best suited for growing indoors.

Beef ribs stewed with vegetables and chanterelles is a dish that, although it will take 2-3 hours to prepare, does not require much effort: all the ingredients are placed in layers in a roasting pan and then simmered on the stove for a long time. The meat turns out so tender that it simply falls off the ribs, and the vegetables, soaked in juices, become incredibly tasty and perfectly complement the beef. In short, without getting particularly tired, you can cook meat with a side dish for lunch or dinner.

A kidney transplant is a complex and responsible operation in general. Even if we are talking about rose buds. In this article I will tell you the whole truth about grafting roses using the budding method. You will understand why gardeners usually do not graft roses, but prefer to buy already grafted ones from a nursery. Budding is the transplantation of a bud from a varietal plant to a rosehip rootstock. A kidney can be transplanted to any part of the trunk. And not only for rose hips. A rose can be grafted onto another rose.

The last calendar month of summer for every gardener becomes the first month of preparation for the coming winter. In addition to pressing problems and a bountiful harvest, you have to think about many other things. After all, soil preparation, flower separation, and proper storage are no less important than preparing the lawn and caring for vegetables. This month in lunar calendar also special. Works in ornamental garden and the garden are divided into extended periods.

Traditional tea made from tea leaves is perhaps one of the most beloved drinks around the world. But this article will talk about no less fashionable herbal teas. Today they have become an indispensable component healthy image life. I will tell you about my experience: how I prepare and store mint, lavender, dill, grape and apple leaf tea at home, their health benefits and rules of use. Since time immemorial, Rus' has been drinking herbal teas.

Tomato and cucumber salad for the winter is the most delicious and simple recipe. Different kinds vegetable salads prepared in industrial scale. In addition to a large number vinegar, there are also various nutritional supplements, with indices incomprehensible to the average person. IN homemade salad For the winter, everything is different - the hostess regulates the acid, and she also monitors sterility and pasteurization, which is why such preparations are incredibly popular at the holiday table.

Lady's slippers today are almost replaced from counters and window sills by hardy phalaenopsis. Luxuriously blooming, medium-sized and very variable, Paphiopedilums are orchids whose blooms you can admire endlessly. Nostalgic and fashionable at the same time, for many they remain unfamiliar plants, shrouded in myths and legends. In practice they are much friendlier than their royal reputation suggests. Paphiopedilums do not bloom without careful care.

Peach compote for the winter with red plums and garden berries is prepared using the hot pour method. Filling can be two or three times; for reliability, you can also add sterilization if you plan to store the blanks in the apartment. It is better to choose fruits for compote that are a little unripe so that the slices retain their shape. It is better to make jam or jam from ripe peaches and plums. I usually roll the compote into small jars and make it concentrated.

Tomatoes come from Peru, where the climate is very hot and dry. How to provide native conditions for tomatoes in our climate? For example, they grow in my open ground, and the summer is cool, and they go very frequent rains. At the same time, I want the bush to bear fruit until the fall and produce fruit, as they write on the bag of seeds - 10 kg per bush. To provide this southerner comfortable conditions and, accordingly, you get a big harvest, you need to be able to form the bush correctly.

Quite often, gardeners want to get the plants they like without special expenses. The first thing that comes to mind in such cases is cuttings. What if you are a beginner or a “lazy” gardener? Or do you come to your summer cottage only on weekends, and only every other time, and still want to relax there? Then the idea with cuttings may not succeed. Why not give nature the opportunity to do almost all the work for us - propagate our favorite plants by layering?

Pilaf with bulgur - very aromatic, crumbly, so tasty that you’ll just lick your fingers! For this recipe you will need coarse-grained or large bulgur; “Bulgur for pilaf” is also available on sale. These are not varieties of wheat, but types of bulgur, in which only the grinding fractions differ. Whole grains, peeled and unpolished bulgur are also suitable for the recipe. The last type is the most useful; it is often used in diet recipes.

My strawberry beds have been around for ten years. Naturally, I update the bushes. Previously, when May and June were dry, I removed two buckets from my “plantation” delicious berries and another half a bucket of berries covered with gray rot. If the beginning of summer was rainy, then I got two buckets of gray rot and only half a bucket of ripe strawberries. It's a shame to share the harvest with some rot! I started an attack on this bullshit. So, step by step - why my strawberries never get gray rot.