When to replant shrubs and trees. Planting fruit trees and shrubs. When is the best time to replant fruit trees?

Beautifully tiled or concrete garden paths are not capable of for a long time resist the “green army”, which is advancing from all sides. Grass and shrubs, growing, can significantly reduce usable area sidewalks. To solve this problem, it is enough to install a curb on both sides of the path. The border can be purchased at finished form, or maybe on our own make a decent fence from available materials for garden path.

How to make a concrete garden border

You can make your own garden border from concrete. Concrete design elements for garden paths have the following positive qualities:

• products of any shape can be easily manufactured;
• service life more than 50 years;
• does not require care and maintenance;
• low cost.

Concrete products are cast in special molds, which can be made from the following materials:

• metal;
• tree;
• plastic.

To make borders, you can buy ready-made forms for pouring concrete, but given the simple design of such products, making them yourself will not be difficult.

When the mold is purchased or made independently, it is installed in vertical position and pour concrete solution into it. Solution for concrete products prepared from the following materials:

• cement grade 500;
• sifted sand;
• crushed stone fraction 5-10 mm;
• mineral additives to improve the plasticity and strength of concrete;
• dye (used only in the case of making colored products).

A few days after pouring, the mold is carefully removed from the workpiece, which must be dried on outdoors for at least 2 weeks. When the concrete solution reaches grade strength, curbs are installed along the paths on both sides.

Brick is a popular garden design material

Ceramic bricks can also be used as a border for garden paths. This building material is used in finished form, because... Installing a clay kiln yourself will be a very costly and burdensome undertaking.

A brick border can be made different ways, but such a fence has the greatest aesthetic effect when the material is installed on an edge at a certain angle.

The manufacturing process of a brick fence is carried out in the following sequence:

1. On both sides of the path, trenches are made 15 cm deep and 25 cm wide.
2. A thick concrete solution consisting only of sand and cement is poured into the trench.
3. The first brick is installed in the mortar at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, about 1/3 of the product should be in the solution.
4. The next brick is installed on the previous one at the same angle and depth.

In this way, a border is installed along the entire length of the garden path. When the solution hardens, outside the border must be covered with earth. A brick border can also be made with horizontal bricks, but the aesthetic effect of such paths will be significantly lower.

Garden fences made of natural stone

Curbs made from natural stone, have very high aesthetic characteristics. The following rocks can be used to make a natural stone border:

• granite;
• basalt;
• quartz;
• slate;
• limestone;
• sandstone.

Natural stone will ensure the longevity of the structure.

Limestone and sandstone are the least durable rocks, but correct installation and careful use can last more than 20 years.

Granite and basalt are the most resistant to mechanical and natural influences Therefore, the use of these materials is recommended in cases where the path fencing may be subject to additional impact from people or animals.

The process of installing natural stone fencing is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Marking along the edges of the garden path.
2. Pouring the foundation.
3. Laying a stone curb on a sand-cement mixture.

In this way, the material is laid on both sides of the garden path. Also, a border made of natural stone can be made without the use of cement mortar and foundation. Large stones It is enough to press it firmly into the ground to create an excellent border for the garden path.

Ready-made borders made of metal and plastic

One of the most quick ways installation of a border for garden paths is the installation of plastic or metal products. Sections made of metal or durable plastic sold ready-made; to install them, just deepen the tape or individual elements such a fence into the ground.

The work order is as follows:

1. Make a recess in the side along the entire length of the path.
2. Install the tape horizontally and compact the earth around it.

In this way, a plastic fence is installed. Installation of metal sections does not require additional site preparation. To install metal borders, it is enough to drive the tape into the ground to approximately half its height.

Wooden paths - beautiful and original

If the path was made of wood, then it is advisable to install curbs from this material. An ordinary edged board, sawn into small pieces and installed horizontally along the entire length of the paths, can become great solution for improvement garden territory. The installation process is very simple.

For this purpose, a board 100 mm wide is suitable, which, being sawn into 400 mm pieces, is driven into the ground along the edge of the paths. Before you begin making this type of fencing for a garden path, you need to carefully treat the wood with special antiseptic compounds. Except edged boards, to make a border, you can use timber or natural logs of small diameter, from which the bark and branches must be removed.

The sequence of actions when working with such materials is practically no different from the method of installing a wooden border from an edged board, but to ensure that the wood is not damaged when driven into the ground, it is necessary to this operation through a thick wooden spacer.

Solutions from cheap improvised means

A budget option for installing borders for garden paths can be made from various materials, but most often the products listed below are used to install such a fence.

Bottles

Glass or plastic products can be used to make borders. You can make a plain border or alternate bottles of different colors. The process of making a border from bottles is carried out in several stages:

1. The bottle is half filled with earth or sand and securely plugged with any hard round object.
2. A trench is dug along the edge of the paths, the depth of which should be equal to half the height of the bottle.
3. A nylon cord is stretched over the trench to place the bottles evenly.
4. The trench is filled with concrete.
5. The bottles are placed in the concrete solution with the neck down.

This installation method is more suitable for making a border from glass bottles. Plastic products Just cut it in half and press it into the ground. Installing a border from plastic bottles is the fastest, but such structures, unfortunately, will not differ in strength. Glass products also unstable to strong mechanical damage, therefore, if there is a risk of damage to the curbs during operation, it is better to use other available materials for these purposes.

Old tires

An excellent material not only for making path borders, but also various crafts. You can make a fence from whole tires. For this purpose, the rubber is dug halfway into the ground, followed by compaction of the soil. If there are only a few tires, you can cut them, secure them with nails to the beam, then bury the lumber in a trench along the edge of the garden path.

Vine

Free natural material, from which it can be made decorative items for the garden, including borders for the path. The process of creating a vine fence is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Wooden pegs are installed along the edges of the paths at equal distances.
2. Several thin rods braid pegs at ground level along the entire length of the path.
3. Installation of the second row is carried out from the opposite side.

This way the fence is built up to the required height. Borders made of vines have a very suitable appearance for a garden, and vertical pegs, with sufficient soil moisture, can sprout shoots, and then the fence will “come to life.”

Green and flowering plant borders

To frame garden paths, not only various Construction Materials, but also living plants. Plants such as:

• barberry;
• lavender;
• boxwood;
• marigold;
• cotoneaster

The process of “installing” such a fence is very simple; just plant the listed plants along the path, and after some time you will get an excellent decorative fence.

A path without a curb not only has an unfinished appearance, but with significant precipitation it is constantly washed away by water. Water contaminates the coating and, with prolonged exposure, contributes to the destruction of the material. The methods listed in this article self-made borders are suitable for any personal plot, And most of The proposed options not only have a decorative function, but also reliably protect the track surface from destruction.

In contact with

Sometimes it is difficult to do without borders when laying out a new flower bed or garden path. Whatever you say, in addition to its aesthetic function, it also greatly facilitates the process of caring for decorative plantings.

Subject to technological process, and also in the presence of certain conditions, which will be discussed below, such a border will last a considerable number of years and, like any other creation own hands, will please its creator for a long time.

The technology described in this master class allows you to build borders of arbitrary shapes and any length, thereby saving you the hassle for a long time.

So, today we will talk about how to arrange a border around a flower bed or garden path without the help of specialists.

To work you will need:

1. Materials:
- cement;
- river or quarry sand (do not use sea sand!);
- crushed stone;
- wire for reinforcement (you can do without it);
- pigment for coloring concrete (optional);
- dishwashing liquid (used to give elasticity to the solution);
- any flexible sheet material type of plywood or thin fiberboard for formwork;
- wooden slats for formwork;
- metal screws or staples for formwork construction;
- wooden pegs (for formwork);
- liquid for sealing concrete curbs;
- sand for backfilling in case of work in clay soil.

Step 1: Consider local conditions

The easiest way similar works conduct to the lucky owners of sandy soil. The only mandatory condition for this is to moisten the finished concrete curb throughout the entire time it dries and hardens. And this is almost a month. The fact is that sand has excellent drainage properties and the moisture that is in concrete mixture, will pass through the sand. Concrete acquires the necessary strength only when moistened. In summer it will dry out a lot.

If you want your border built on sandy soil, served for a long time, take this feature into account.

In second place is loose forest soil. It is the least demanding when constructing concrete structures, even such insignificant ones.

The third place is occupied by black soil. In its properties it is close to loamy and clay soils.

And finally, loam and clay are the most capricious soils. But it’s easy enough to tame him by resorting to one simple trick.

The fact is that clay is unusually hygroscopic. This means that it literally attracts moisture to itself - like a sponge. In the cold, all the moisture contained in the clay freezes, and the clay soil seems to expand. If there is a curb in it, he will undergo real torture. Usually, concrete structures V clay soil quickly deform, cracks form in them and they begin to collapse.

For this purpose, a sand cushion was invented a long time ago. Before laying the curb mortar into the ditch, add a layer of sand. It will prevent concrete from deforming and protect it from destruction.

You can also pour concrete mortar without deepening it into the ground. This is a more economical option since you do not have to incur the cost of sand for the sand bed.

However, pay attention to the amount of rainfall that occurs during the rainy seasons. If it rains continuously in the fall, and you have clay in your garden and impassable dirt forms, keep in mind that over time the border will go deeper into the soil until it is no longer visible above the surface. In this case, it is better to abandon the construction of concrete curbs and opt for other options. Or strengthen the soil before taking on such work.

Step 2: preparing the base and erecting formwork

So, we have a little understanding of the local geological conditions and we can get to work.

If you have planned a curly border line, use for marking garden hose. This will make the process much easier. IN as a last resort, you can take the cord. But it is recommended not to neglect the markup, but to give it special importance.

To ensure that the width of the border is the same, prepare and install spacers from pieces of unwanted wood. The spacers, of course, must be located above the planned height of the curb itself.

During preparation concrete mortar you can use a concrete mixer or do without it - decide for yourself. However, mixing the solution by hand is not an easy task.

Prepare necessary tool, so that there are no delays during the work (the prepared solution has a limited service life), as well as materials: cement, sand, crushed stone, water, dishwashing detergent and pigment, if you are going to use it.

Also prepare even pieces of wire if you want to reinforce the border. This measure is optional and somewhat costly, but this way you will be sure that deep cracks will not form in it over time due to seasonal soil movement.

Mix the ingredients in order: first cement and sand, then water and detergent, and only after that crushed stone.

Carefully read the instructions for the pigment and prepare it if necessary. Add the pigment to the solution as indicated in the instructions.

The solution should be thick enough, but not so thick that it cannot be smoothed out with a wooden trowel.

Step 4: forming a border

Place the mortar into the formwork using a trowel, compacting it and filling all voids.

First level the surface of the curb with a trowel and wait until the solution sets slightly.

Landing dates

PLANT and replant ornamental trees and shrubs preferably in the fall. Winter planting has a number of features that amateurs are unable to comply with. For woody plants The rule is also true: blooming in spring Planted in autumn, blooming in late summer - in spring. It turns out that in most cases best time It should be autumn for planting.

Autumn planting is also good because there is no need to rush, trying to catch it before the buds open. The only thing you need to take care of is that the newly planted plants have time to take root before the soil freezes. Since it is possible to accurately predict the onset of frost in middle lane difficult, it is advisable to complete the planting before mid-October. You can plant later, but then you need to protect the roots from freezing, for example, by mulching the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of leaves, peat, etc. If cold weather is already setting in and the plants are not planted, it is better to dig them in an inclined position, cover them with mulch and plant them on permanent place already in the spring.

Plants grown in containers can theoretically be planted at any time of the year. Still, it is better to avoid extreme weather conditions: frost, drought, hot sun, strong wind. This is especially important for evergreen plants and those that are in bloom at the time of planting.

Selection of planting material

It is IMPORTANT to pay attention to the quality of the seedling - it must be healthy, strong, with an intact crown and the most preserved root system. From frail seedlings, even if they survive, plants, as a rule, grow unsightly.

Planting material for trees and shrubs can be sold in containers, with an earthen ball and with an exposed root system. Each of these types of seedlings has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when choosing and planting them.

There are two types of container plants: those that have spent their entire lives in pots, and those that were planted in pots before being sold. When purchasing them, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the roots. Avoid container-grown specimens with roots that are too intertwined, have grown into the soil under the pot, and especially those with spiraling roots. It is not very good if the plant is grown in a peat substrate, and very bad if it is overdried.

In a plant grown in open ground, a container is essentially an option for packaging the root ball. The lump of earth on the roots of the seedling can also be packed in burlap or other suitable material. Such plants are assessed by the size of the coma: it must correspond to the above-ground part, i.e., not be disproportionately small.

Bare root plants are those that are dug up during the dormant period and simply shake the soil off the roots. It's better if this happens in front of you. For these plants, it is important to preserve the roots as much as possible and not dry them out. They need to be planted as quickly as possible, preferably the same day or the next day. Before planting, the roots must be protected by covering them with soil or damp burlap. Before planting, dry and unhealthy roots should be cut out and the cuts should be renewed if the roots are worn out with a shovel (photo 1). It is also useful to dip them in clay mash with the addition of a growth regulator that promotes root formation (heteroauxin, indolylbutyric acid, etc.).

Planting trees and shrubs

1. PREPARE the planting site. Clear the soil of weeds, especially perennials. If planting is carried out on a lawn, carefully remove a circle of turf along the diameter of the hole. It can be used for sodding trunk circle right here, and if this is not planned, then, for example, to repair the lawn or, as a last resort, to improve the soil at the bottom of the same hole.

2. SPREAD a piece of thick film or other material on the lawn on which you will place the excavated soil.

3. DIG a hole in 1,5-2 times wider than the root ball. Check the depth of the hole by placing a potted or packaged plant in it. The depth of the hole for a seedling with bare roots should be greater than the longest root.

4. LOOSEN the soil at the bottom of the hole and pierce its walls with a fork.

5. ADD structuring agent organic matter- compost or peat - into the soil at the bottom of the pit, as well as into the soil extracted from it, prepared for filling it. On sandy soils, such an additive will help retain moisture, on loamy soils - better water and air permeability. Adding sand to heavy clay soils is also helpful.

6. ADD fertilizer, preferably slow-release fertilizer, according to package directions.

7. TO TIE the tree, drive a peg approximately in the center of the hole. If you do this after planting, you can damage the roots of the plant.

8. PLACE a rail across the hole to help control the planting depth. The tree is usually planted at the same depth at which it grew in the nursery. This place can be identified by a dark strip of bark at the base of the trunk. Some shrubs can be planted a little deeper. It should be taken into account that the soil in the hole will settle over time, that is, it is better to place the mark corresponding to the required depth slightly above the level of the slats.

9. REMOVE the plant from the container. If you come across a specimen with twisted roots, straighten them and place them in radii. Place the root ball next to the stake. Adjust planting depth by adding or removing soil from the bottom of the hole. For plants with bare roots, place a cone-shaped mound at the bottom of the hole and gently spread the roots over it.

10. FILL the hole with prepared soil so as to fill the voids between the roots. Gently compact the soil around the tree with your feet (Photo 2).

11. PERIMETER landing pit form a roll of soil high 5-10 cm, which will prevent water from spreading when watering.

12. Water the plant A LOT so that the moisture goes down to the roots. Once the water has been absorbed, mulch the soil in the hole with organic mulch to retain moisture and suppress weed growth. You can return a previously removed fragment of turf to its place, but so that it does not touch the trunk.

13. TIE the tree to a stake at a height of about 30 cm above the soil surface. This is necessary in order to prevent displacement of the root ball. The garter should not cut into the tree bark - make it from soft material type of rubber.

14. SOME shrubs should be pruned when planting. Dead, damaged or diseased wood must be removed from all planted plants.

Transfer

REPLANT trees and shrubs better in autumn and in spring, when the weather is not too cold or damp.

1. PRIM old, damaged and growing branches inside the crown. If necessary, tie the crown with soft twine or burlap for convenience and to protect the plant from breaking.

2. SCOPE a circle around the diameter of the crown with a shovel.

3. C OUTSIDE circumference, dig a trench to the width and depth of a spade bayonet, cutting off all roots protruding into it.

4. Using a shovel under the root ball, cut off the roots going down. Tilt the separated lump to the side and slip a piece of thick film or burlap under it. Tie the edges around the trunk.

5. REMOVE the plant from the hole, holding it by the film that is tied around the ball. Never lift the plant by its trunk or branches.

6. PLANT the plant using the technology described above.

Planting vines

LIANAS are planted at the same time as other woody plants. Their peculiarity is that for normal development the vines require support. It is easier and more convenient to build supports before planting vines.

1. DIG holes twice the size of the root ball and at least a distance from the wall or fence 45 cm.

2. PREPARE the soil as above.

3. The DEPTH of the hole should be such that top part the root ball was at soil level. Plant the vine at a slight angle to the wall.

4. UNTIL the shoots climb up the wall, install the sticks at an angle, going from the plant to the support.

5. Water MUCH and mulch the soil around the plant.

How to avoid mistakes when choosing

It is more difficult to CORRECT mistakes made when choosing woody plants than herbaceous ones. Trees and shrubs occupy their place for many years and are visible all year round. When purchasing such a plant, you need to clearly imagine how it will look when it becomes an adult - whether it is suitable in size, whether it will be combined with other plantings, whether it will oppress the “neighbors”. After all, the roots of the tree spread widely, extracting moisture and nutrients from the soil. If planted too close to the house, the tree can not only block the windows, but even penetrate its roots under the foundation or path. Many bushes can also turn from an adorable baby into a 3-4 -meter-long monster.

It is important that the plants comply with the environmental conditions of the site. Heat-loving plants in a harsher climate they will wither away, light-loving ones will stretch out in the shade. It is also easier to select a variety of plants for specific soil conditions than to change the composition of the soil for specific plants.

Therefore, when it comes to woody plants, it is worth carefully weighing the pros and cons before deciding to buy a trendy new item.

Despite the fact that melon is a “purebred southerner,” summer residents grow it not only in the south. And all because this culture is extremely tasty and very healthy. And varieties “for the market” are not always distinguished by high taste qualities, not like fruits from your own garden or greenhouse. True, melon has its own “secrets,” but they are not particularly difficult. Therefore, if you have not yet grown melon on your acres, you should definitely try it at least once!

Red Sea salad with squid, crab sticks and red caviar - a light and healthy snack that is suitable for a pescetarian menu; it can also be prepared in fast days, when fish and seafood are allowed on the menu. The salad is simply extremely tasty and easy to prepare. Buy squid freshly frozen. I do not recommend preparing a dish with giant squid fillet; although it looks appetizing and tempting, it has a strong ammonia aftertaste that is difficult to get rid of.

From ordinary fruit trees columnar ones are distinguished by a compact crown, small height, and lack of lateral branching. With a small habit, these miracle trees are distinguished by their ability to produce large yields of large, tasty and beautiful fruits. On 1-2 acres you can place up to 20-25 columnar trees - varieties of apple trees, pears, plums, peaches, cherries, apricots and other crops of different ripening periods. Our article will tell you about the features of creating a columnar garden.

August can feel a little sad - autumn, followed by a long winter, is already on the doorstep. But the flower beds are still full of colors, and their color scheme creates an atmosphere of warmth and joy. The rich palette of August flower beds mainly consists of yellow, orange, and crimson tones. And it seems as if the garden has become warmer and has more sunny color. What flowers should definitely be planted in flower beds so that they brighten up the inevitable passing of summer with blooms?

Peach jam with bananas is aromatic, thick, healthy and, most importantly, it contains half the sugar than regular jam. This is a quick jam with pectin, and pectin powder, as you know, allows you to reduce the sugar content in the jam, or even make it without sugar. Sugar-free jams are fashionable sweets these days; they are very popular among supporters healthy image life. Peaches for harvesting can be of any degree of ripeness, bananas too.

Coriander is one of the most popular spices in the world, and its greens are called coriander or coriander. Interestingly, cilantro leaves no one indifferent. Some people adore it and happily use it in any salads and sandwiches, and they love Borodino bread for the special flavor of coriander seeds. Others, citing the smell that evokes associations with forest bugs, hate coriander and flatly refuse to approach bunches of cilantro even at the market, let alone plant it in their own garden.

Saintpaulias are coming back into fashion and turning the idea of ​​cute blooming violets that willingly live on any windowsill. Trends in the “market” for Uzambara violets indicate a rapid increase in interest in plants with unusual leaves. More and more admiring glances are attracted not by the unusual colors of flowers, but by the exotic variegated colors of the leaves. Variegated Saintpaulias are almost no different from all the others in cultivation.

Sweet and sour marinated cherry tomatoes with red onion and basil marinated with balsamic vinegar and mustard. These pickled vegetables will decorate any festive table, they are very tasty and aromatic. Marinade filling is a completely different story: it turns out delicious pickle, the only drawback of which is not a large number of. Choose sweet, red onions. Cherries are strong, slightly unripe, and the smallest. Fresh basil will work either green or purple.

My first acquaintance with hydrogel took place a long time ago. Back in the nineties, my husband brought funny multi-colored balls from Japan, which greatly increased in size when filled with water. They were supposed to be used for bouquets or some other decorative purposes. Of course, at first it was funny, but then I got tired of playing and abandoned them, I don’t even remember where they went. But I recently returned to using hydrogel. I will tell you about my experience in this article.

Watermelon and summer are inseparable concepts. However, you won’t find melons in every area. And all because this African plant takes up a lot of space, is quite demanding of both heat and sun, and also of proper watering. But still, we love watermelon so much that today not only southerners have learned to grow it, but much more northern summer residents. It turns out that this capricious plant you can find an approach, and if you want, you can get a decent harvest.

You can make red gooseberry jam in 10 minutes. However, it should be borne in mind that this is the time required to cook the jam without preparing the berries. It takes a lot of time to harvest and prepare the berries for processing. Cruel thorns discourage any desire to harvest, and you still have to cut off the noses and tails. But the result is worth it, the jam turns out excellent, one of the most aromatic, in my opinion, and the taste is such that it is impossible to tear yourself away from the jar.

Monsteras, anthuriums, caladiums, dieffenbachias... Representatives of the Araceae family are considered one of the most popular categories indoor plants. And not the last factor in their widespread distribution is diversity. Aroids represented aquatic plants, epiphytes, semi-epiphytes, tuberous and lianas. But despite such diversity, because of which it is sometimes difficult to guess about the relationship of plants, aroids are very similar to each other and require the same care.

Donskoy salad for the winter - a savory appetizer from fresh vegetables in a sweet and sour marinade with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. IN original recipe regular or apple cider vinegar, but with a combination of wine vinegar and light Balsamico it turns out much tastier. The salad can be prepared without sterilization - bring the vegetables to a boil, put them in sterile jars and wrap them warmly. You can also pasteurize the workpieces at a temperature of 85 degrees, then quickly cool.

The main mushrooms collected are: porcini, obabka, boletus, chanterelles, boletus, moss mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms, boletus, saffron milk caps, honey mushrooms. Other mushrooms are collected depending on the region. And their name (other mushrooms) is legion. As well as mushroom pickers, of whom there are more and more every year. Therefore, there may not be enough for all known mushrooms. And I know for sure that among the little-known there are very worthy representatives. I’ll tell you about little-known, but tasty and healthy mushrooms in this article.

The word "ampel" comes from the German word "ampel", meaning a hanging container for flowers. The fashion for hanging flower beds came to us from Europe. And today it is very difficult to imagine a garden where there is not at least one hanging basket. In response to the growing popularity of container floriculture, a large number of hanging plants have appeared on sale, whose shoots easily fall outside the pots. Let's talk about those that are valued for their beautiful flowers.

When transplanting a tree from one place to anotherSome soil and roots are inevitably lost. The situation is worsened by transportation, especially long-term transportation.

To successfully replant, it is necessary to dig up a tree with big lump soil and less loss of roots. Transportation to a new location should be quick and, if possible, maintaining the moisture of the coma and roots, which is why it is recommended to place the seedling in a damp cloth, preferably cotton, such as burlap, so that the roots can breathe.

When transplanting, it is desirable that the living conditions in the new place do not differ from the previous ones. To plant a tree, a hole equal in volume to a clod of earth is sufficient. To maintain soil acidity and create better conditions Due to the osmotic pressure inside the tree, I do not put fertilizers, manure, leaves, grass, or sawdust in the pit. Fertilizers during planting, in particular chemical ones, can burn the tips of roots damaged during digging, and leaves, grass, sawdust can destroy the tree with organic acids, because if there is a lack of oxygen in the hole, it will take years for them to decompose. For the same reason, it is undesirable to dig in near a tree as a support. wooden stake, it is better to use a neutral plastic pole, or even better, a metal one.

If the soil at the planting site is less loose, for better breathing of the roots, the hole must be made of a larger diameter, and the space between the lump of earth and its edges must be filled with earth mixed with sand (approximately 40%). It is also necessary to mix the soil with sand when planting seedlings with bare roots. When transplanting fruit trees, lime is poured into the bottom of the hole and mixed with soil at the rate of 70-100 g per 1 square meter. m.

After planting, the tree first of all needs plenty of water, but not in excess: one bucket at the time of planting and on average one bucket every 3 days for 1-1.5 months.

According to observations, a tree or shrub is more easily accepted when it is transplanted from soil saturated with nutrition to soil less saturated, with equal qualities. And it’s much worse for a seedling when transplanted from poor soil. nutrients, to the rich.

You can plant trees at any time of the year, even in winter, but it’s better in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. It is possible in the summer - preferably small trees with a large lump of earth. In autumn, plantings take root worse, and to prevent them from dying, you have to water them regularly until frost.

In a new location, trees and shrubs quickly take root and require almost no maintenance. For better growth they need to be fertilized, but not earlier than a year after planting, most often with water-soluble fertilizers mineral fertilizers(20-30 g per 1 sq. m a year after planting, in subsequent years - 40-50 g per 1 sq. m).

Generally accepted rules for planting fruit trees.

When digging a hole, the top layer of soil, approximately to the depth of a shovel, is thrown in one direction, and the denser and less fertile soil in the other. The depth and width of the hole should be such that straightened roots can fit freely in it. At the bottom of the pit, the soil is well loosened and, on the eve of planting, mixed with organic (rotted manure, peat, compost) or mineral fertilizers, and if the soil is acidic, with lime. A mound is made in the center of the hole and the seedling is lowered; its trunk should be 5-7 cm from the stake. Fill the hole first with the top fertile layer, then with the lower, less nutritious layer. The seedling is shaken from time to time so that the soil passes between the roots. As soon as the roots of the seedling are covered with soil in a layer of 10-15 cm, 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the hole. The planting depth of the tree should be the same as it was in the nursery, and the root collar of the seedling (the conventional boundary of the transition of the root system to the trunk) should be above the soil level.

Some gardeners dig holes for planting trees and shrubs in advance, for example spring planting- in the fall. And they are also covered in advance with soil with a mixture of humus or compost, sawdust (not softwood), leaves, rotten straw, hay or other organic residues. The pit fills to the brim. In the spring, it is enough to make a small hole in it, convenient for placing the root system of the seedling, and plant the tree.